So what should you consider when determining the height of your bar stool? Let's consider the main factors:
Now let's take a closer look at an example of how to make a chair from solid wood. As for wood, the most available material– pine and birch. They are available for free sale. When choosing, make sure that they are free of knots and other damage. This is important, because the product should ultimately be quite durable.
So, for manufacturing you will need to prepare the following blanks:
Part No. 1 will serve as a seat. As for part No. 2, it will play the role of a backing under the seat.
When cutting the legs, make sure that the wood structure is vertical, i.e. the cuts are not made against the grain.
You should also cut out the stiffeners, as indicated in the schematic diagram:
To assemble this you will need 3 types of screws:
Below is a step-by-step assembly process:
To prevent cracking of the workpieces, pre-drill holes for them.
At the end of the work, painting is carried out.
If you like metal products, then you can make a metal chair yourself without much difficulty. Now we invite you to familiarize yourself with the manufacturing process using photo instructions.
To work, you will need a metal strip up to 5 mm thick. After making a small sketch on cardboard, cut off strips of the desired size.
This article deliberately does not indicate dimensions, since in this case everyone can make the seat of the chair at their own discretion.
The strips are securely welded together. Pay attention to the quality of welding. Although everything will be sanded later, it is important to apply a careful weld. From this appearance the chair will only benefit.
Also, at your discretion, mark out the cross members in a chaotic arrangement inside the seat frame. It is important here to ensure that there are no openings that are too large.
Just like the seat frame, you scald all the cross members. After this, clean each weld seam from slag with a grinder with a grinding wheel installed on it, not forgetting to wear safety glasses.
To prevent injury, smooth out any sharp corners on the workpiece.
Next, make the legs from the pipes. They must be the same size, which can be determined from the table at the beginning of this article. Weld all four blanks to the already made seat. To strengthen the structure, weld cross members. They will additionally serve to support your legs. Do not rush to weld thoroughly. First on the tacks to try on and adjust everything.
If everything fits, then you can carefully weld the parts. As a result, the raw bar stool will look like this:
If you leave the legs as is, they will scratch the floor, may break tiles and, worst of all, make noise. unpleasant sound when they move. Therefore, you can hammer into the lower part of the legs wooden wedges, as shown in the picture below. So, you can increase the stability of the entire structure.
Some kind of wooden “plugs” are not attached in any way. They will be held in place by friction and pressure. Be sure to make adjustments wooden blank so that it is flush with the leg.
When the bar stool frame is ready, it can be painted. Pre-sand all welding areas and also make sure there are no sharp protrusions. Apply primer.
You can paint the legs and seating area any color you like.
If you have your own ideas for making such furniture, be sure to write about it in the comments to this article. At the end, we invite you to consider the drawings and photos of finished bar stools. Perhaps you will find quite a few interesting ideas for myself.
This subsection will help you understand design features and detailing of bar stools:
Happy residents of apartments with an acceptable layout or private houses have long understood the delights of free movement around the kitchen. And many male owners are happy to continue to improve the interior and furniture with their own hands. Quite often there are options for combining kitchen and dining spaces. As a rule, they are separated by bar counters or kitchen “appendixes” - extensions of the countertop. Chairs or stools sold in stores for such counters often have absolutely no “homey” look, so we suggest making a bar stool with your own hands.
Appearance of the first bar stool
For both options below you will need hand power tool. IN in this case you won’t have to order cutting on the side, since all the parts are shaped and relatively small in size. Blanks for them can be bought at construction markets, in departments that sell plywood and furniture panels.
The most affordable types of wood, sold immediately in the form furniture panels- this is pine and birch. If you plan to tint the product, that is, cover it with stain before varnishing, it is better to choose solid birch, because pine is stained unevenly.
We will need an array of two thicknesses: 30 and 20 mm.
Using a jigsaw, we cut out a circle with a diameter of 360 mm from a thirty-millimeter piece - this will be the seat, that is, the top of the chair. If you have access to a milling machine or a hand router, you can select a beautiful profile around the perimeter using a shaped cutter. If this is not possible, simply remove a uniform chamfer with a plane and sand it. This applies to all details.
Large and small seat circles
A small circle, 260 mm in diameter, is cut from a 20 mm thick solid wood. Stiffening ribs are cut out of it to serve as a footrest.
Drawing of bar stool legs
You can see the exact drawing of the stiffening ribs and chair legs with dimensions in the pictures. The legs are cut from solid wood, and you need to pay attention that the structure of the wood for the legs is vertical.
Drawing of stiffeners
The assembly order is visible in the pictures; for the ties you need to use three types of self-tapping screws:
We drill holes with a diameter of 6 mm into the plane for the screws, and into the end with a diameter of 3 mm.
Assembling a bar stool
We tint it with stain, be sure to dry it and cover it with two or three layers of varnish. Bar stool ready.
For the second option we use plywood, 25-30 mm thick. The legs for it can be made from balusters round section or simple cuttings for shovels, approximately 30 mm in diameter. To make bar stools with your own hands, as shown in the figure, we will additionally need a feather drill of the same diameter as the legs, that is, 30 mm.
The second version of the bar stool
So, the details:
Bar stool drawing
Before cutting out the rings, mark them for drilling. We draw the outer contour of the ring on the workpiece and draw two straight lines perpendicular to each other through the center of the resulting circle. From the crosshairs we measure 140 mm in each direction - we get the centers of the holes that need to be selected with a feather drill, four in total. We draw the internal contour and cut out the ring from the drilled blank.
Cutting out the rings
The rough seat is marked in the same way as the upper ring, but is drilled only half the thickness - these will be the “sockets” for the legs.
All details are processed in the same way as in the first, wooden, version of the bar stool.
The legs are attached to the rings using furniture screws at a height of: Small 100 mm from the top, large - 250 mm from the bottom. We buy furniture screws with decorative caps in hardware store, 6x70 mm - 8 pcs., don’t forget about the washers. We drill holes for them with a 6 mm drill. We don’t tighten the upper ring yet - first we insert the legs into the sockets of the rough seat, where we first pour a little wood glue or PVA.
Additionally, we screw the rough seat to the legs with 5x60 self-tapping screws, trying to recess the heads of the screws. We glue the main seat on top and fix it from below, from the rough, with 4x40 self-tapping screws.
We tint the product with stain, varnish it, call the bartender.
Now we know how to make a bar stool with our own hands, and even in two versions. Objectively, they differ little, but! With solid wood, unpleasant incidents are possible for the first option. When choosing blanks for your parts in a store, be sure to ask the seller: Is this a structural mass or a decorative one?
Decorative solid wood may look more attractive, but it will not withstand heavy loads. With plywood it is easier and more reliable in this regard.
Good luck to you.
If you decide to equip your dining room or kitchen with a bar counter, then it will take on a complete look only after you equip it with chairs. When choosing such pieces of furniture, it is necessary to take into account compliance with the design and style of the room. You can, of course, purchase such an addition in a store, but the cost can be impressive, and the design features may not be suitable for a certain interior.
If you decide to make bar bars, you can purchase the materials at a hardware store. It is recommended to order cutting from a carpentry workshop. In order to determine the most comfortable dimensions of the products, you should measure the distance from the floor surface to the bottom of the tabletop. The gap between the surface of the table and the seat should be from 30 to 35 cm. To carry out the work you will need a screwdriver and jigsaw, as well as a plane, tape measure, hammer and carpenter's corner. Make sure you have self-tapping screws and sandpaper. The products will be based on a block square section with a side of 50 millimeters. You will also need an array from which the drawers will be made. The thickness of the latter should be equivalent to 25-30 millimeters.
When choosing wood, you should pay attention to pine, birch or beech. As optimal diameter the array for making the chair will be 360 millimeters. In order for the products to acquire a finished look, they can be coated with varnish or stain. To carry out the work you will need brushes, stain and solvent.
If you are making bar stools with your own hands, then using a jigsaw you should prepare a circle from solid wood, the diameter of which should be 360 mm. This element will come out top part bar stool. The workpiece needs to be processed grinder, and get rid of the chamfer along the edge. A circle of less impressive diameter, which will be 260 millimeters, should be prepared for attaching the legs. If you make bar stools with your own hands, then the seat can be square, in which case the drawer frame will be used. An alternative solution would be a technology that involves merging several boards 120 millimeters wide or more. After the blanks are glued, they should be joined and secured with clamps, leaving them in this state until dry. If you make bar stools with your own hands, you can use furniture glue for gluing.
Once the height of the bar stool has been selected and you have completed all of the above work, you can proceed to making the legs. For this, a square beam with a side of 50 millimeters is used. At this stage, using it along the entire length of the element, it should be planed with a slight slope. It is necessary to achieve such an effect that the cross-section of the legs in the lower part is 2.5x2.5 cm. As for the upper part, which will be fixed to the seat, it should be as thick as possible. The product will require four legs; they are additionally fixed to the structure and act as a support bar for the legs of the person sitting. If you are making a white bar stool, then during the work you can use the technology described in the article, and final stage prepare paint of the appropriate shade. The next step will be to manipulate a square beam with a side of 2.5 cm. This element should be planed, and then the tenon should be sawed down at the end parts. Stepping back from the floor about 30 cm, you need to hollow out a nest in the legs, which is necessary for the spike. The legs prepared in advance must be installed in the sockets using glue. The entire structure is strengthened with twine.
When making a tall one, the next step is to assemble it, eliminating the occurrence of gaps and cracks. After all the parts have been adjusted, they should initially be assembled dry, and only after you are convinced that the design is ideal, you can use glue for such work. Today you can even find folding bar stools on sale, but it should be taken into account that they are able to take on less significant weight. Sharp corners the spikes must be rounded. To attach the legs to the mounting surface, you need to drill two holes for dowels, the diameter of which can be 8 millimeters. The mounting shield is placed on the dowels as tightly as possible. The legs can be further strengthened using screws.
If you decide to make folding bar stools yourself, then the legs should be fixed not by rigid fastening, but with the help of special furniture canopies. However, it is necessary to provide a support installed at the base of the seat. This will prevent the structure from folding during operation. Don't just attach everything mechanically or glue. A façade seat should be installed on top of the mounting panel. It must be secured with screws installed on the back side. The height of the bar stool will depend only on your preferences and the dimensions of the available table.
On modern kitchen They often arrange a seating area behind the bar counter, which will certainly require chairs.
A bar stool is a height-adjustable stool that is designed to be used in conjunction with a bar counter.
For work, among other things, you should prepare 3 and 6 mm drills (hereinafter in the text the dimensions will be indicated in millimeters). If, after making a chair, it is intended to be covered with stain before the varnishing process, it is preferable to purchase solid birch, since pine is characterized by uneven staining. You will have to stock up on an array of thicknesses of 30 and 20 mm. The first option will be used for a circle, which needs to be given a diameter of 360 mm, and a jigsaw will be used for this work. This element will become the seat. In the presence of milling machine or hand router it is possible to provide an aesthetic profile around the perimeter. If this is not possible, you can remove the chamfer using a plane, after which the treated surface should be sanded.
A circle with smaller dimensions, the diameter of which should be 260 mm, must be cut from a 20 mm solid. The same material should also be used for the manufacture of stiffening ribs, which will serve as footrests. They need to be prepared using solid wood with a thickness of 30 mm, and it is worth making sure that the wood structure is located vertically.
The bar seat should be assembled using the following types of screws:
It is worth drilling holes in the part for self-tapping screws, the diameter of which should be 6 mm, and the drilled holes at the end should have a diameter of 3 mm.
After you have managed to make a bar stool, you can cover its surface with stain. The layer must dry, after which you can begin to apply varnish.
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Alternative design
You can use balusters as legs for a bar stool.
You can make a chair with your own hands and according to a different sketch. For the process, plywood with a thickness of 30 mm should be used. The legs will be balusters; they can be replaced with shovel handles, their diameter is 30 mm.
Detailing (mm):
- legs (4 pcs.) – length 750;
- seat with a radius of 180;
- rough seat with a radius of 170.
- upper ring with outer radius 143, inner radius 110;
- lower ring with an outer radius of 153, an inner radius of 120.
Before sawing out the rings, they must be marked for drilling. On the workpiece you need to draw the outer contour of the element and draw 2 straight lines through the center of the circle. From the cross, set aside 140 in each direction, which will allow you to get the centers of the holes that need to be selected with a drill. Now you can draw the internal contour by cutting out a ring from the drilled element.
The rough seat needs to be marked as the top ring, but should be drilled to ½ thickness, these will be the “sockets” for the legs. The legs to the rings can be secured with screws. You need to drill holes for them using a 6 mm drill. The upper ring should not be pulled in immediately; insert the legs into the sockets of the rough seat, where PVA is poured in advance.
The rough seat must be connected to the legs with 5x60 self-tapping screws. Now you can proceed to fastening the upper seat with 4x40 self-tapping screws.
The manufacturing process of the structure can be completed by tinting with stain and covering everything with varnish.
The presence of a bar counter in the kitchen implies the use of special chairs that are higher than standard ones. You can make a bar stool with your own hands, saving money and creating an original product, becoming the owner of a piece of furniture that you won’t be ashamed to show off to your guests or simply purchase your favorite model in the store. 
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It is necessary to carefully consider the design of the future product, its design features before making your own bar stool.
It is necessary to determine how many legs the model will have, equip it with a backrest or make it in the form high stool, choose a round or square seat. Already at the design stage, you should consider the decoration method and the presence of soft upholstery.
The appearance of a piece of furniture should be combined as much as possible with the interior of the room. can be made from rough solid wood, while a forged frame with soft fabric or leather upholstery is more suitable for the classics.
One of the most important characteristics is the height of the chair so that it is comfortable to use. The distance from the surface of the bar counter to the seat should be 30-35 cm. If desired, you can equip a stool lifting mechanism.
1 more important detail- material of manufacture. Wood is easier to process. Metal products are much stronger, but iron is more difficult to work with and requires special tools.
Before starting work, you need to prepare all the required materials and tools. To make a bar stool from wood, you will need:
To create a chair from metal profile or pipes you will need:
If in stock welding machine and skills to work with it, connecting elements metal frame can be done by welding. In addition, you will need upholstery material and soft filling.
How to make a bar stool with your own hands and the stages of the manufacturing process depend on the material for the furniture frame.
All work is divided into cutting blanks with subsequent grinding, connecting the legs together with the installation of transverse partitions that will strengthen the structure and serve as a footrest, manufacturing the seat and securing it to the frame.
Making a standard backless wooden bar stool from wooden blocks and a plywood seat is quite simple.
To begin with, 2 blanks for a seat with a diameter of 35 and 25 cm are cut out of a piece of plywood, which are glued or twisted with self-tapping screws, centering them relative to each other. The larger part will serve as a seat, and the smaller one will serve as an additional support for the legs.
For the legs of the chair, use beams measuring 5x5 cm, from which 4 legs are cut. Then, using a plane or milling machine, the parts in the lower part are narrowed to 2.5 cm. 4 leg supports are made of square timber 2.5 cm thick, with a length equal to the distance between them.
The next stage is the creation of connecting tenons by installing dowels. To do this, first drill 4 holes of 6-8 mm in the lower part of the seat part, then one at the upper end of each leg and on both sides of the interlegal partitions.
At a height of about 30 cm from the floor, marks are made on each support. They are applied on 2 adjacent sidewalls - the junction with the footrests. According to the marks, holes are drilled.
The frame is assembled simultaneously with the insertion of spikes, pre-lubricated with glue. First, the legs and partitions are connected. Then on finished design put on the seat, further strengthening the chair metal corners between the supports and its lower circle.
Another fairly simple way to make a bar stool is to cut out solid pieces of plywood 2 cm thick and connect them with glue and self-tapping screws.
To make it you will need:
First, they draw a pattern and apply the diagram to the plywood. With help electric jigsaw The blanks are cut out and the sections are carefully polished. Then the side elements with legs and partitions for the legs are folded overlapping. At the points of contact, apply wood glue and screw in self-tapping screws.
A square is attached to the round seat blank in the center. All that remains is to insert it into the resulting frame and secure it firmly with screws or metal corners.
This model can be easily equipped with a lifting mechanism, presented in the form of a threaded axle and 2 cylinders, with a circle-shaped top. The frame is assembled without securing the seat. Additionally, a square blank is installed between the footrests. The length of the legs may be shortened slightly or remain the same. A hole with a diameter equal to the size of the cylinders is cut out in the center of the upper and lower transverse parts.
Installation of the mechanism involves firmly inserting the cylinders with internal thread into the prepared holes and attaching the axle to the bottom of the seat. Now insert 1 component into the other 2 by screwing. The height is adjusted by rotating the seat around its axis.
It is a little more difficult to make, but such a piece of furniture will look much more beautiful.
First you need to cut the components in the form of legs, upper and middle jumpers, and a wooden seat. To make the product look more elegant, the diameter of the main pipes and additional elements should be different. If there is a machine for bending metal, the upper jumpers are replaced with a round blank.
Holes are drilled in the places where the mounting bolts will be located. The frame elements are then connected together. In addition, you need to equip the upper part with 4 legs for installing the seat.
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