| 1. Growing temperature: in spring and summer, normal room temperature ranging from 18 to 25° C is suitable for keeping; in winter, a cool rest period is required at a temperature of about 15° C. |
| 2. Lighting: light shading from direct sun rays during the daytime in spring and summer, in other months direct sun rays. The flower can take sunbathing in the morning and evening every day. |
| 3. Watering and air humidity: Dry the top layer of soil 2 centimeters deep between waterings in the warm season and reduce the frequency of watering in accordance with the room temperature in autumn and winter. For ivy-leaved pelargonium, it is better to use bottom watering. It is better to increase air humidity. |
| 4. Trimming: mainly sanitary - removing old and diseased leaves, as well as trimming faded buds. |
| 5. Priming: moisture- and breathable mixture, rich in nutrients, loose substrate. |
| 6. Top dressing: fertilizers for flowering plants every 2 weeks in the warm season. In the fall, fertilizing is reduced to nothing and resumed only in the spring, with the appearance of young leaves. |
| 7. Reproduction: by seeds or stem cuttings in spring and summer. |
Botanical name: Pelargonium peltatum.
Family. Geraniums.
Homeland of the plant. South Africa.
How does ivy-leaved or thyroid pelargonium grow? Creeping plant with creeping fragile stems up to 80 cm long, which break easily.
Leaves green, often shiny, 5 cm in diameter, reminiscent of ivy leaves.
Small inflorescences appear on long peduncles in abundance from spring to autumn. Each inflorescence can consist of 6 - 15 flowers. 
Flowers with a diameter of up to 5 cm. light colors - white, salmon, pink, orange and red, can be simple or terry. There are varieties with two-color buds that have large spots or stripes on the surface of the petals. Varieties of plants with simple, double and semi-double flowers have been bred.
Pelargonium received the name “ivy-leaved” for the characteristic shape of its leaves, reminiscent of ivy leaf blades - each leaf has 5 large denticles. The second name - "thyroid" is also given for the shape of the leaves - they resemble a knight's shield.
Height. Most of these pelargoniums have stems reaching lengths 90 cm., however, there are dwarf varieties whose length does not exceed 20 cm.
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Ivy-leaved pelargonium is most often propagated by stem cuttings in spring and summer or by sowing seeds in spring.
It will be possible to say that roots have formed under the surface of the soil when the first new leaves appear on the cuttings.
Since this particular species - ivy-leaved pelargonium - is very prone to rotting, the cuttings not covered with glass and rarely root in water.
The first fresh shoot appears in about 1 - 2 months, and young plants bloom next spring.
Ivy-leaved pelargonium is also propagated by seeds - with fresh seeds have very good germination.
As a pre-planting preparation, it is worth carrying out scarification. The fact is that large geranium seeds have a fairly hard shell that prevents their germination. During scarification, this shell is carefully destroyed - scratched with sandpaper or a file.
After scarification, seeds soak for several hours in warm water with the addition of epin or zircon. Before sowing, the planting material is dried by spreading it on a paper towel.
The first shoots usually appear after 7 - 20 days- with their appearance, the shelter can be completely removed.
When each young bush has formed 2 - 3 leaf blades- flowers dive- Seated in separate cups.
Through 7 - 10 days after diving, you can feed the geranium for the first time with fertilizers with a high nitrogen content to form green mass. When first used, fertilizers are diluted to a quarter of the dose recommended on the package.
You can sow the seeds directly into separate cups - with this method you can avoid plant diving.
Can be used for propagation self-collected seeds However, plants obtained from them may not be attractive, as they often lose their varietal characteristics. Only fully ripened seeds are suitable for collection.
From pests the plant is susceptible to invasions of whiteflies, spider mites, thrips, mealybugs, nematodes, and aphids. When kept outdoors, pelargonium leaves can be attacked by snails, slugs, and caterpillars.
Insects - pests
| Insect name | Signs of infection | Control measures |
| Small light spots on leaf blades, yellowing and falling leaves. Disturbed white, small butterflies fly up from the surface of the leaves | Chemicals: Zeta, Rovikurt, INTA-VIR, Fufanol and even Karbofos, Aktellik, Aktara, Konfidor, Commander, Tanrek. Folk remedies: soap solution, garlic solution, yarrow and tobacco infusion, dandelion infusion, sticky traps for adult insects | |
| or felt | The surface of the leaves and shoots is covered with a fluffy, cotton-like white coating. Plants lag behind in development | Folk remedies: spraying with soap and alcohol solution. Infusions of tobacco, garlic, cyclamen tubers, alcohol treatments, and pharmacy tincture of calendula have worked well. Chemicals: green soap solution, Actellik, Fitoverm. |
| The leaf blades turn yellow in places located between the veins, then turn brown and black. Eventually the leaves fall off the plants. When the root system is damaged, the plant becomes weak and withers before our eyes for no apparent reason. | Traditional methods: destruction of infected parts of plants, abundant watering with hot water at a temperature of about 70°C, hot bath - immersing the pot in a large container with water at a temperature of 55°C for 20 minutes. Chemicals: anthelmintics. | |
| Inconspicuous cobwebs on the leaves, yellowing and falling leaves with extensive damage. The surface of the leaf plates becomes dead and covered with small cracks. Plant development slows down. | Traditional methods. Plants can be washed in the shower and left in the bathroom in a humid atmosphere for half an hour. Irradiation with an ultraviolet lamp every week for 2 minutes. Chemicals based on pyrethrum, sulfur powders, Fitoverm, Actellik. | |
| Sticky droplets appear on the leaf blades, the leaf blades curl and become deformed, tender buds and young leaves wither. Colonies of insects can be seen on the tips of shoots, buds or the underside of leaf blades. The flowers of plants affected by aphids may become deformed. | Traditional methods: infusion of nettle, decoction of rhubarb leaves, wormwood, soap solution, infusion of tobacco and dandelion, onion, marigold, yarrow, tansy, dusting with virgin ash. Chemicals: Sulfur powders, treatment of green mass with green potassium soap without getting into the ground, Decis, Actellik, Fitoverm. | |
| The appearance of yellow spots on the leaf blades; small brown dots can be observed on the underside of the leaves. When pests spread, they cause leaves to turn yellow, dry out and fall off. | Traditional methods. Increase air humidity, wipe the surface of the leaves with a soap solution to reduce the number of pests. Preparations based on pyrethrum - 2-fold treatment with an interval of 7 - 10 days, spraying with tobacco infusion, infusion of yarrow or Persian chamomile, decoction of cyclamen tubers. Chemicals: dusting with sulfur powders, using anabasine sulfate in a soap solution. | |
| Through holes in leaf blades, skeletonized leaves, eaten edges of leaves, cobwebs and cocoons on leaves. | Mechanical control measures: collection and destruction by hand, installation of trapping belts and installation of pheromone traps. Traditional methods: spraying with a decoction of yarrow, potato tops, infusions of tobacco, wormwood and garlic, fumigation with smoke. Chemical and biological agents: biological agents - Fitoverm, Entobacterin, insecticidal preparations - Actellik, Iskra, Aktara, Karate, Inta-Vir, Fufanon, Karbofos. | |
| Snails, slugs | Through holes on leaf blades, traces of mucus on the surface of leaves. | Traditional methods: manual collection of harmful insects, dusting plant leaves with mustard and hot pepper, wood ash mixed with baking soda, tobacco dust. Chemicals: superphosphate granules, copper preparations, Thunderstorm, Slug Eater, Anti-slug, Meta. |
Pelargoniums are very easy to grow at home.
Take out the plants for fresh air in the warm season - at the end of spring and summer, placing them under cover from direct sunlight and rain. You should not immediately change the location of the flower - you should first harden.
For hardening, the plants are taken outside during the daytime and left there. for 2 - 3 hours, gradually increasing this period of time. The plant should be brought back into a warm room when the air temperature drops to 10°C at night.
Trim yellow leaves at the base, as well as old and weak shoots.Remove old flower stalks in order to stimulate the plant to form new buds. Trim the shoots that appear in the leaf axils.
Carry out as necessary formative pruning, with which you can easily control the size of the bushes. This pruning is carried out after complete flowering, before the dormant period. Long stems are shortened in such a way that 6-7 leaves remain on the bottom after pruning, no more.
Use sharp and sterile pruning shears or a garden knife for pruning.
Do not place geraniums near operating heating systems - hot and dry air will harm the plants.
Blooms abundantly from spring to autumn.
Peat-based, well-drained, with sufficient organic matter and nutrients.
A mixture for growing ivy-leaved pelargonium can be draw up of such components like peat, leaf and turf humus.
In order for the substrate passed water easier and remained loose, a little river sand or perlite and vermiculite is mixed into it.
The finished soil should have pH close to neutral.
Replant the plant in nutrient soil containing leaf humus, peat and some coarse sand for drainage.
Young bushes require replanting Every year, as their root system develops and takes up more and more space. The signal to replant such plants will be the tips of the roots protruding in the drainage holes of the pot. Each time when transplanting, the size of the pot for young plants is increased by 2 - 3 cm. in diameter.
Adult ivy-leaved pelargonium is transplanted every 2 - 3 years to change the substrate to a fresh soil mixture. To keep adult pelargoniums, the diameter of the pot can be no more than 15 cm for one bush.
The best time for a transplant will be beginning of new growth in spring Plants with buds and flowers should not be replanted - wait until flowering is over.
If there are signs of root rot, then the plants replanted with a complete replacement of the soil. Roots carefully when transplanting shake off from the remains of the old substrate, examine And cut off rotten areas to healthy tissues. Pruning is carried out with a sharply sharpened and sterile instrument, and the wound surface is sprinkled with charcoal powder.
If the flower looks healthy, then you can transshipment- transfer it to a new pot along with the old lump of soil, without destroying it.
Plants are fed every 15 days, starting from the formation of the first buds and until the end of flowering. After flowering, frequency of fertilizing and nutrient content are cutting back, encouraging the flower to go dormant during the winter months.
in winter ivy geranium don't feed, and resume applying fertilizer only in the spring, when young leaves begin to appear on the bushes. Monthly fertilizing during the winter months is carried out only for those flowers that are in a cool room.
Mineral fertilizers are used for feeding for flowering plants in liquid form or in granules. Fertilizers should contain sufficient potassium and phosphorus for the formation of buds and have a low percentage of nitrogen.
Apply fertilizers after abundant watering so that in dry soil the chemical solution does not burn the root system of the flower.
Pelargonium does not like organic fertilizers - flowering will become scarce when they are used.
Pelargoniums appreciate warmth during the summer - the flower is left in a warm place with a temperature 20 - 25 °C. Z You should give the flower a cool rest period and lower the temperature up to 15° C. Does not tolerate frosts. During the winter months, the flower should not be exposed to temperatures below 8 - 10 °C.
A brightly sunny location is important for flowering. Ivy-leaved pelargonium tolerates partial shade, but in the shade the flowering will be less abundant.
Geranium will feel great even on southern windows, but during hot daytime hours in spring and summer, the plant should be protected from sunlight with a light curtain.
Windows are considered the most suitable for growing flowers. southeast or southwest orientation. Geranium grows well and blooms profusely on eastern And Western window sills. When grown with north side plants should be illuminated artificially.
Fluorescent or LED lamps, as well as special phytolights, can be used as artificial lighting.
Water abundantly and regularly during the summer, but allowing the soil to dry out between waterings. in winter reduce watering, but do not allow the earthen clod to dry out.
When watering, water should not fall directly on the stems and leaves of the plant - this can cause rot. Can be used bottom watering, immersing the flower pot in a large container of water for a few minutes and allowing excess moisture to drain through the drainage holes.
Young flowers need regular watering, and with age the bushes will withstand drought better and better.
Used for irrigation well defended tap or filtered water at room temperature.
Watering should be abundant- the substrate should be completely wetted with moisture. Excess water that appears in the pan is drained a few minutes after watering.
It is advisable to water ivy-leaved geraniums in the morning or evening, since during the daytime the contact of drops of water on sunlit leaves can provoke the appearance of sunburn.
Spray periodically to prevent pest infestations. Ivy-leaved pelargonium tolerates dry air in heated rooms well. Spraying is carried out from a small spray bottle water at room temperature but only in the first half of the day. The water should have time to evaporate from the surface of the leaves before dusk.
When spraying, droplets of water should not fall on the buds and flowers - this can sharply reduce their attractiveness.
To increase air humidity you can use room humidifier or put a potty on a tray filled with wet pebbles or moistened sphagnum moss. With this growing method, the surface of the water should never touch the bottom of the pot.
Flower prefers well ventilated areas with sufficient fresh air flow.
Photos, description, planting and care in open ground, pruning groups, supports for clematis, soil for growing, propagation, fertilizing, flowering time
All parts of the plant are toxic; keep geraniums away from animals and small children. Plants are able to purify the air in living rooms from harmful impurities. With good care, these pelargoniums live for a long time indoors, but it is better to renew the plants at the age of 3 years, since they do not bloom so profusely.
Hydroponics.
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One of the most popular plants that are grown in country gardens, on balconies and apartments is pelargonium, or, as it is often called in everyday life, geranium.
Pelargonium ivy is native to South Africa. A semi-shrub perennial plant with creeping stems and fleshy leaves. This pelargonium has creeping stems up to 90 centimeters long with clusters of flowers of various colors and leaves similar to ivy leaves. Often grown as an ampel plant in hanging pots. Pelargonium grows quickly and blooms from spring to autumn.
Many varieties of thyroid pelargonium have been developed with all kinds of colors of delicate flowers - white, salmon, pink, red, crimson, lilac, as well as bicolor and with contrasting veins on the petals. Flowers are simple or double; usually they are 1.5-2.5 cm in diameter, in some large-flowered varieties up to 4 cm.
The ideal place for ivy-leaved pelargonium is in hanging baskets or window boxes where you can admire the long cascade of flowering shoots.
Lighting.
Loves bright light, even direct sunlight. Prefers south or west exposure. With a lack of light, the plant has few leaves and poor flowering. If the temperature is between 15 and 27°C, the plant can be kept in full sun. If the temperature exceeds 30°C, pelargonium is placed in partial shade.
Temperature.
Prefers a temperature of 20-25 degrees in summer and 13-15 degrees in winter, but not less than 12 degrees. Plants can withstand extreme cold, but cannot tolerate even the slightest frost. Therefore, pelargonium must be protected from frost - both spring and autumn.
In summer, temperature changes are necessary: during the day - 18-24°C, at night - 13-16°C. It is thanks to temperature fluctuations during the day that flower buds are formed. In summer, the container with the plant can be taken out into the open air. Pelargonium is returned indoors before night temperatures drop below 10 °C, so as not to cause sudden yellowing of the leaves.
Watering and air humidity.
When growing pelargonium, certain requirements must be observed. Water abundantly in summer, but without excess moisture; the soil should have time to dry out slightly between waterings. In winter, the amount of watering is reduced, while at the same time preventing complete drying out. Excessive watering at low temperatures can cause stem rotting and death of the plant itself. One of the main problems for ivy-leaved pelargoniums is swelling, a physiological disorder caused by unstable levels of watering. The disease manifests itself with both excessive and insufficient watering of pelargoniums, which cause disturbances in cell development. As a result, scars or corky spots of varying sizes appear on the back of the leaves.
Air humidity is not particularly important.
Fertilizers.
Sufficient and balanced nutrition of pelargoniums promotes good growth, as well as non-stop lush flowering. Excess nitrogen fertilizers contribute to the development of a large green mass, fewer flower stalks are formed on the shoots (or not at all) - the plants “fatten”. Pelargonium is fed during the growing season with fertilizers for flowering indoor plants, once every 10-14 days.
Rest period.
During winter, it is recommended to keep the plant in a cool, bright place with a temperature of 13-15°C. During the winter rest, the flower should only be watered occasionally. But, even if hanging pelargoniums are kept cold in winter, most of the leaves still fall off, and by spring the plant looks unsightly and needs severe pruning. Excessive watering of wintering pelargoniums leads to rotting of the roots and the appearance of diseases. And the surviving plants grow - they form very thin, fragile shoots with small pale leaves.
Transfer.
Young plants are replanted annually. This is done in the spring before growth begins. The container for the flower must be small, otherwise the plant will only develop green mass, but will not bloom. For adult specimens, the soil is often replaced with a new one - without replacing the container.
The soil.
The soil should be loose, fertile, with a neutral pH. A mixture of turf, leaf, humus soil and sand (2:2:2:1) is suitable. Good drainage is necessary.
Formation.
Ivy-leaved pelargonium also needs to be rejuvenated! With the onset of autumn, you need to prune ivy-leaved pelargoniums, leaving 1-2 lower leaves, in the axils of which new shoots can be seen. If this is not done, then very soon the pelargoia trunk will be exposed, the shoots will become elongated and the plant will take on an unattractive appearance. With the onset of spring, pelargoniums should be trimmed only if they have become very elongated. With such drastic pruning, ivy-leaved pelargonium will delight you with its flowering only in summer.
Pruning bare shoots of pelargonium in the spring and pinching the tips of the shoots promotes tillering due to the formation of lateral shoots from dormant buds. Yellowed and drying leaves are cut off, leaving the bottom of the petiole. The abundance of flowering is promoted by the removal of faded inflorescences. You can maintain the neat appearance of pelargonium, as well as restrain its growth, by regularly pruning the stems. To have the most spectacular plants that grow in all directions, you should plant two or even three rooted cuttings in a pot.
In ivy-leaved pelargoniums older than 2 years, the stems become woody and begin to spoil the entire appearance. That is why it is necessary to renew ivy-leaved pelargonium every 2-3 years in spring or autumn, growing them again from cuttings. The only option for the longevity of ivy-leaved pelargonium is to grow it in the form of a standard tree.
Pelargonium is propagated by apical cuttings that remain from annual autumn and spring pruning. Pelargonium can also be grown from seeds.
Features of care:
The abundance of nitrogen in the soil promotes the formation of many large leaves and causes weak flowering.
The biggest dangers for pelargoniums are gray rot, black leg and leaf rust.
Pelargonium has a lot of advantages:
able to bloom continuously from May to October;
pelargonium bushes do not lose their decorative effect throughout the season;
this is one of the most unpretentious plants; practically not affected by diseases and pests;
it is an ideal plant for balcony boxes and hanging baskets as it easily tolerates lack of moisture;
If you move pelargonium indoors before the first serious autumn frosts, it will continue to bloom on the windowsill for at least another month.
Description
Pelargonium ivy-leaved or, as it is otherwise called, thyroid geranium is a creeping subshrub with thin, but quite strong shoots, reaching a length of a meter.
This plant has five-fingered, dense leaves with white veins or borders. In the axil of each of them long peduncles are formed, bearing inflorescences with graceful star-shaped flowers. Shield geranium has a large number of excellent varieties. Its flowers can be simple or double, up to two and a half cm in diameter. Ivy-leaved pelargonium, photos of which can be seen on the covers of design magazines, is considered an excellent decoration for windows, verandas and balconies. This is the most common houseplant, having a huge variety of colors, shapes and aromas of flowers and fragrant leaves.
Growing
Pelargonium ivy-leaved is a sun-loving and drought-resistant plant. It is best to place it on eastern and western window sills. For normal growth, the plant requires constant fresh air, but without drafts. Therefore, in the heated winter months, the room where the plant is kept should be regularly ventilated, and in the summer it is better to take it out into the open. Its hardened varieties, although they can withstand cold weather, do not tolerate frost at all. Therefore, it is better to protect geraniums from spring and autumn frosts. Ivy-leaved pelargonium, which can be bought at any flower shop, feels best in a sunny place. She prefers loamy soil and moderate watering.
During active growth, the plant needs to be fed. Complex, low-concentrated fertilizers are best suited for this purpose. Some plant growers say that ivy-leaved pelargonium is a big fan of milk diluted with water. It promotes its lush color.
Reproduction
Ivy-leaved pelargonium propagates by cuttings and seeds. Since this plant has a thin semi-creeping stem, it is better to plant it in a flower pot. Propagation by cuttings is the most common type. The cut material needs to be dried a little and then planted in peat or turf soil. The cuttings need to be lightly sprayed and moistened, and after three weeks, when they take root, they should be planted in a pot. Moreover, the smaller it is, the faster the pelargonium will begin to bloom. After transplanting, the cuttings need to be watered through a tray in small portions after the top layer of soil has completely dried. If the plant withers a little, then there is no need to worry, it will recover in a couple of days. Propagation by seeds begins, as a rule, in January, sowing them in cups that are covered with film. Germination occurs within two weeks, after which the seedlings can be replanted.
The most promising varieties of thyroid pelargonium are: Ringo - a compact and early-flowering plant with pink flowers, Mustang - with a contrasting pattern on the leaves, Pygmy and Super Red with cherry, orange, pink buds. Their main part is semi-double. The color scheme of ivy-leaved pelargonium is the richest in this family. In addition to traditional shades, these varieties can be lilac and purple. Marimba and Belladonna stand out with their rich raspberry colors.
In many countries pelargonium also known as indoor geranium .
The scientific name of this plant comes from the Greek word pelagros - "stork" and refers to the shape of the pelargonium fruit, which resembles the long beak of a bird.
Pelargonium (geranium) - an unpretentious plant that is easy to propagate from stem cuttings. Pelargonium (geranium) is very easy to care for at home. With good lighting, geranium can bloom almost all year round with large fragrant flowers.
The genus includes about 280 species of herbaceous plants, native to South Africa.
In gardens they usually grow zonal pelargonium (geranium) (Pelargonium hortorum). The leaves of zonal geranium have a horseshoe-shaped pattern.
Usually grown indoors pelargonium (geranium) domestic (Pelargonium domesticum), which was obtained by crossing natural forms. Pelargonium domestica is also called large-flowered, royal geranium. In England they call it "royal geranium", and in the United States of America - “Lady Washington”. Many varieties of homemade geranium have been bred.
Homemade pelargonium (geranium) (Pelargonium domesticum)
Several other types of geraniums (pelargoniums) are grown at home.
Pelargonium capitata
Pelargonium crispum
This type of pelargonium is usually grown as a hanging plant due to its long, hanging shoots.
When growing geraniums at home, it is important to correctly form the crown and height of the bush. To do this, you need to pinch the shoots of pelargonium at the level of 8-10 leaves. If new shoots begin to grow from the axils of the upper leaves, it is best to remove them.
Temperatures are recommended in the range from 8 to 25°C, since pelargonium is very unpretentious. In summer the temperature is room temperature. The room in which the geranium is kept must be ventilated. In winter, the room temperature should not fall below 8°C.
Lighting should be intense, as geranium loves light. However, a pot of pelargonium should not be placed in a window facing south, where it will be exposed to direct sunlight throughout the day. Pelargonium feels best on window sills facing north or east. In winter, geraniums can be illuminated with fluorescent lamps.
Watering in summer should be plentiful. Between waterings during this period, the soil should dry out a little. In winter, watering pelargonium is reduced, and the ground should be slightly moist.
Pelargonium tolerates dry air well, so there is no need to constantly spray the plant. However, on hot summer days, occasional spraying of pelargonium will only be beneficial.
The soil for cultivating geraniums is neutral or slightly acidic, light. You can use regular garden soil by adding leaf humus and sand. The soil mixture should be loose and allow air and water to pass through well. You can add a little crushed coal to the ground.
Feeding pelargonium carried out 23 months after transplantation. Geraniums are fed with superphosphate, which stimulates flowering. Mullein solution is usually used as an organic fertilizer.
Transplanting pelargonium. Young specimens are replanted every year. Overgrown geraniums are replanted only if necessary. For one geranium bush, a small pot with a diameter of about 15 centimeters is suitable. In order to get a lush and voluminous bush, you need to connect three pelargonium bushes and plant them in one pot, the diameter of which will be about 25 centimeters.
Geranium propagation(Pelargonium) is produced by cuttings and seeds. Geraniums are propagated in spring or summer. Cuttings take root well both in the ground and in water. Seeds are sown in winter in February and the plant can bloom in summer.
Pelargonium bloom. The flowering is beautiful. Geranium flowers can be of different colors: white. red, pink, purple and variegated depending on the variety of pelargonium. The diameter of the flowers of some varieties of geranium can reach 5-6 centimeters.
Pelargonium (geranium) leaves dry from too dry air. In winter, you should not keep a pot of geraniums near a working battery.
From excess light Light spots appear on the leaves of pelargonium (geranium). The plant should be placed in partial shade and protected from the midday sun.
From lack of nutrition pelargonium grows too slowly. In this case, it is necessary to feed the plant with mineral and organic fertilizers.
Pelargonium (geranium) pests- whitefly, aphids, spider mites, false scale insects.
Of the seeds, only two sotro series are widely represented on the Russian market:
- the Summer Showers variety mixture (translated as “Summer Rains”) received a gold medal at the Fleuroselect exhibition in 1986 and is positioned as the first F1 hybrid of ivy-leaved pelargonium grown from seeds. The originator is Panamerican Seeds. The mixture includes plants of scarlet, wine-red, pink, white and lilac colors with single flowers up to 7 cm in diameter. It has strong stems and does not require pinching. In Russia it is offered by the company Gavrish under the name Pelargonium ampelous "Summer Rain". Foreign manufacturers also sell monocolor lines - Burgundy, Fuchsia and White Blush (white with a slightly pinkish tint). The Plasma Seeds company offers "Cascade of Color" seeds, which is apparently also a Summer Showers variety mixture.
- the Summertime variety series is produced by the British company Floranova and includes five colors. The flowers are not double, the shoots are of medium length, the plants are long-flowering. Flowering occurs 4 - 4.5 months after sowing. Offered by the Plasma Seeds company in the PROFI series, monocolor lines by the companies Aelita (Pink and Purple Shadow) and FalconLabs (Purple).
A much larger assortment of thyroid pelargoniums is offered in the form of propagated cuttings or adult flowering plants. In large stores you can find several variety series, although the exact names are usually not indicated:
- Corriente variety series with bright semi-double flowers of a wide range, including two-color ones - Pink Spirit, Artik Red, Burgundy, Burgundy two-color, Amethyst, Mexicanerin, Ragtime, Beach, Reggae Red, Luna.
- Blizzard variety series with very large inflorescences of non-double flowers, good branching and long shoots, early flower appearance. Varieties are sold by color - Blizzard Blue (lilac), Dark Red (burgundy), Red (pink-red), Pink (pink), White (white), Red Bicolor (pink-red with white).
- variety series Temprano - early flowering, compact well-branched shoots, semi-double flowers and very abundant flowering. Varieties - Maxime, Dark Red, Butterfly, Marimba, Orange, Orkid, Flair, Molina, Blanche Rocher.
- Cascade variety series with single flowers and long strong shoots. Varieties - Fire, White, Compact pink, Acapulco, Ville de Paris, Compact Lila, Somon.
- the Giant series is sold by NK (Russian Garden) in the form of rooted cuttings. Includes three colors - Fire (brick red), White (white) and Bicolor (white and pink with a bright red border). The flowers are semi-double.
There are several hundred collection varieties; their descriptions and photographs are given on separate pages of Plantopedia.
❀ The temperature regime for keeping Pelargonium thyroid differs depending on whether the plant is in the growth or hibernation phase. Moderate temperatures in the range of 18-24°C are most favorable for leaf formation and flowering. This species tolerates elevated temperatures quite well, but flowering deteriorates in too hot weather.
❀ These pelargoniums are quite demanding in terms of lighting, but can grow with light shading. You just have to take into account that the more sun the plant receives, the more abundant the flowering will be. The exception is hot regions and large southern windows, where, with average daytime temperatures above 30°C, it is recommended to place pots in partial shade.
❀ Watering is required regularly, but moderately, to prevent stagnation of water in the pot. Between waterings, the top layer of soil should dry out slightly. Plants are resistant to short-term drying and easily recover after watering is resumed.
❀ Ordinary light universal soil with the addition of perlite or other raising agents is suitable for growing. The soil acidity for thyroid pelargonium is preferably neutral or slightly alkaline.
❀ The size of the containers is selected depending on the variety (compact or ampelous) and the age of the plant. For first-year flowers grown from seeds or cuttings, pots with a diameter of 9-12 cm are suitable, although they are usually planted several at a time in larger containers. According to some sources, a limited amount of soil stimulates earlier and more abundant flowering. When growing ivy-leaved pelargonium in containers or hanging baskets, the plants are planted at a distance of about 15 cm from each other.
❀ Feeding begins after the first leaves grow and continues until the end of flowering. Before budding begins, fertilizers with a high content of nitrogen and potassium (approximately NPK 17:5:17) with the addition of microelements and organic components are preferred. After flowering begins, balanced compositions from NPK 10:10:10 to 20:20:20 are used. The concentration and frequency of fertilizing is in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. Plants may react negatively to excess mineral fertilizers and increased soil mineralization; in this case, the pots should be kept completely immersed in water for 15-60 minutes so that excess salts dissolve and leave the soil.
❀ Air humidity does not play a significant role when growing thyroid pelargonium - succulent leaves covered with a wax layer are perfectly adapted to dry air. Only if it is cultivated without hibernation, a little additional moisture may be required in winter.
❀ The plant is easily propagated vegetatively by cuttings that quickly take root. Cuttings are usually carried out in spring or autumn, after flowering has completed. Both young green and mature semi-lignified shoots are used. To accelerate root formation, special preparations are used. Planting material is immediately planted in the ground - light sterilized soil, or in an inert substrate such as perlite. Cuttings are usually not rooted in water, as they rot easily. The breeding containers are kept in a bright place at a moderate temperature, roots appear within 4 weeks. After another 1-2 months, well-rooted cuttings are transplanted into containers with soil for adult plants.
❀ Seeds are sown in a light substrate to a depth of 2-3 mm. Shoots appear within 3-4 weeks after sowing. The Floranova company offers the following recommendations for seed propagation of thyroid pelargonium: sowing is carried out in loose sterilized peat-based soil with a pH of 6.0-6.2. The seeds are sprinkled with a thin layer of vermiculite on top. Before emergence, the substrate is kept at constant moisture and the temperature is 21-24°C; in hotter conditions, germination worsens. Lighting is optional, but can be a positive factor. After emergence of seedlings, the temperature is slightly lowered, to 18-20 ° C, lighting is preferably of medium intensity, up to 32,000 lux. In indoor conditions in winter, additional lighting with phytolamps may be required. After the appearance of the true leaf, fertilizing with complex fertilizers with a high content of nitrogen and potassium (NPK 15:5:15 or 17:5:17) begins. The soil is moistened regularly, with the top layer of soil slightly drying between waterings. At the age of 3 true leaves, you can treat with growth inhibitors (for example, the drug "Athlet") to form stronger shortened stems. The formed seedlings are planted in individual pots with a diameter of 10 cm. You can use universal soil, the acidity of which is not lower than pH 6.2. The temperature is maintained in the range of 16-20°C. Lighting can be increased to a level of 54,000 lux, which stimulates earlier appearance of buds. Feeding continues with the same composition with the addition of microelements, especially calcium and iron.
❀ Like most other pelargoniums, plants during the growing season can be affected by almost any insect pest - aphids, thrips, whiteflies, mealybugs, and mites. It is recommended to periodically check for their presence and preventive treatment with broad-spectrum drugs 1-3 times per season. The danger of rotting of the stem and roots occurs with excessive watering or constant air humidity that is too high. Stagnation of water also often leads to edema or leaf dropsy. This disease is not too dangerous, but it spoils the appearance of the plant and signals the need to change agricultural practices. Pelargonium thyroid is more resistant to rust than other species. Increased soil acidity at pH 6.0 or less can cause necrosis of the lower leaves; too alkaline a pH of 6.8 or more can cause yellowing of the upper leaves, as well as iron deficiency. ❀ This is interesting. The sour juice of the plant was used by the local population of South Africa to treat the throat for colds, and the mashed leaves were applied to small cuts to speed up the healing of the skin. The buds and young leaves are edible and are a good thirst quencher.
