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» Two ways to get rid of excess moisture in the area. How to make drainage in a summer cottage - the simplest way and something more complicated Water in the area ways to solve the problem

Two ways to get rid of excess moisture in the area. How to make drainage in a summer cottage - the simplest way and something more complicated Water in the area ways to solve the problem

One of the main problems of any plot of land is excess moisture in the soil. As a result, such unpleasant processes are observed as stagnation of water in the area, flooding of the basement, erosion of the soil, rotting of the roots of trees and shrubs, and premature destruction of the foundations of buildings. You can cope with excess moisture by arranging drainage on the site with your own hands. According to all the rules, the constructed drainage system eliminates most of the problems associated with excess soil moisture.

A drainage system can be created on any site. It consists of pipes or channels, wells and system protection elements located on the site. Such a system is designed to collect infiltrated and ground moisture, as well as to divert it to a specific place or outside the site.

Installing drainage on a site with your own hands is necessary in the following cases:

  • swamping of the area. The water entering the soil surface does not have time to be absorbed into the ground, as a result of which puddles appear, and the soil itself loses its porous structure. This is especially true for clay soils;
  • if dampness or flooding occurs in the basement of the house or in the basement;
  • if the foundation and walls of the building begin to become covered with cracks resulting from soil heaving;
  • if window or door openings are warped;
  • washing out of soil from under paths and paved areas;
  • if the site is on a hillside or in a lowland.

Tip: Creating a drainage system is very desirable if the groundwater in your area is at a depth of 1.5 m or less.

Types of drainage systems

Depending on the design and degree of deepening of the system elements, there are two types of drainage systems:

1. Surface drainage. It is characterized by the location on the site of a network of canals that remove moisture that falls in the form of precipitation. Do-it-yourself surface drainage of a site can be made in two versions:

2. Deep drainage. Such a structure is a system of perforated pipelines laid at a certain depth, below the soil level. Do-it-yourself deep drainage on the site copes well with drainage on clay soils, as well as in the presence of surface groundwater.


Preparing a drainage system project

When preparing a drainage scheme for a site, several nuances should be taken into account, since the performance and durability of the drainage system depend on a correctly completed project.

Pay attention to the following points:

  • laying the drainage system is always done last, after completion of rough construction work. Construction equipment located on the site can damage surface drainage elements;
  • all other communications must be marked on the project to align them with the drainage system;
  • you need to know the level of groundwater in your area;
  • study the composition and structure of the soil on the site at different depths;
  • the project must take into account the presence of structures buried in the ground on the site. This could be the ground floor of a house, a cellar, a basement, a well;
  • take into account the terrain features;
  • Do-it-yourself drainage of a garden plot should be carried out taking into account the location of shrubs and trees;
  • Consider the amount of precipitation that applies to your area.

What is needed for open and closed drainage

Proper drainage in a summer cottage with your own hands involves the use of certain types of building materials. Different drainage systems will require different components.

1. To create surface drainage, you may need (depending on the type):

  • storm water inlets;
  • polymer concrete/polymer sand or through which water will flow to the designated places;
  • sand traps that serve to prevent various debris from entering the system;
  • metal or plastic gratings that will cover the drainage trays;
  • sand from which the underlying cushion for the gutters will be made and cement for fixing them.

2. For the deep system you will need to purchase:

  • perforated pipes in which water will collect. It is best to use polymer products. If there are no holes in them, then they are drilled independently. The diameter of the pipes should not be less than 10 cm;
  • , which will serve as a filter element;
  • fittings and couplings for connecting pipes into a single system;
  • inspection wells, thanks to which it will be possible to inspect the system and clean it;
  • collector wells in which drained water will accumulate;
  • a pump through which water will be pumped out from catchment wells, if they are planned to be built;
  • sand for arranging the underlying layer;
  • crushed stone for backfilling and pre-filtration of water.

Note: If you have a shortage of crushed stone, then it is quite acceptable to use gravel. The main condition is that individual stones should not be more than 4 cm in diameter.

Manufacturing of surface drainage system

Before you do the drainage of the site with your own hands, you need to draw up a diagram of the placement of all drainage channels. The location of the main (main) channels that go to the collector well or spillway is indicated. In addition, additional channels are marked that drain water from individual places where it accumulates. Additional channels have a slope towards the main channels, connecting with them.

  • Trenches are dug strictly according to the scheme. Their depth is 50-70 cm, and their width should be about 40-50 cm. Pay attention to the slope of the trench walls. They should be beveled at an angle of about 25 degrees. That is, they are wider at the top;
  • The bottom of the trenches is compacted.

Tip: Main channels are made wider, since the flow of water collected from additional channels will pass through them.

Backfill drainage

  • a layer of geotextile is laid in the trenches, after which the trenches are filled with crushed stone. The bottom layer of crushed stone should have larger fractions. The geotextile is wrapped so that soil particles do not fall into the crushed stone layer;
  • earth is poured on top of such a backfill or turf is laid.

Tray drainage

  • trenches are also dug, but of less depth;
  • sand is poured into the bottom of the trenches in a layer of 10 cm;
  • if desired, crushed stone can be poured on top of the sand;
  • cement mortar is poured onto the bottom and walls of the trench;
  • trays and sand traps are installed;
  • the trays are covered with protective grilles on top.

Installation of deep drainage

Such a system is manufactured with special care, since correcting any defects will be problematic. Do-it-yourself deep drainage of a site is considered a complex and labor-intensive operation.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

  • a plan for laying drainage lines is drawn;
  • trenches are dug 50 cm wide and 80-100 cm deep. The slope of the trenches is ensured at about 3 degrees towards the drain;
  • the bottom of the trenches is covered with sand (about 10 cm), which is compacted;
  • geotextiles are laid on top of the sand so that its ends rise above the soil level;
  • Crushed stone is poured inside the geotextile layer. Layer thickness - about 20 cm;
  • perforated pipes are laid on crushed stone;
  • sections of pipes are connected to each other;
  • a collector well is being prepared. It is located at the lowest point of the site;
  • the pipes are led into a drain well, from which water will be pumped out or drained to a lower level;
  • laid pipes are covered with crushed stone on top. It should not reach the soil level;
  • the geotextile is wrapped, as a result of which the pipe and the crushed stone around it end up in a “cocoon”;
  • From above, the entire structure is covered with soil.

The drainage system will transform your site, rid it of excess moisture, and restore the natural state of the soil.

Video

How to properly make drainage on a site with your own hands, watch the video. It considers the option of deep rather than open drainage.

How to drain a summer cottage with your own hands

The drainage system on the site should be one of the first on the to-do list for its arrangement. The result of reclamation will be:

  • Dry soil in previously wetlands; Disappears threat of foundation erosion at home; the problem will become irrelevant washing out winter and garden plantings; Soil acidity will decrease;

The main factors influencing the degree of flooding of the area are:

  • swampy area; groundwater.

You yourself can determine the groundwater level. digging a hole. If in summer no water leaves a two-meter hole, it can be stated that the water is close to the surface. Another reason for excessive soil moisture may be the composition of the soil: clay or peat.

Methods for draining a summer cottage

Today, homeowners know two methods of dehumidification:

  1. Linear system. Its purpose is to prevent the accumulation and stagnation of water on roofs, and to drain it beyond the boundaries of the site using gutters. It is also relevant for combination with the deep method, and does not require special implementation measures. Drainage system or deep drainage. The method involves laying underground channels, laying pipes and a step-by-step sequence of work.

Organization of surface drainage

Before you begin drainage, you should understand the natural slope of the terrain. If there is no topographic plan, track in which direction the water runs. Consider yourself lucky if water rushes to the street. although this fact does not negate the presence of a ditch in front of the house, in which parallel drains from the garden and vegetable garden are connected. It is imperative to separate streams from the garden, since water noticeably washes away centimeters of useful soil. You can ensure a slope in the following ways:

  • Use gutter. made with a structurally raised part; Use the technique step sequence when raising the height of the ground;

Reclamation begins with draining stagnant puddles near the house. The system implies presence of dug trenches in low areas or along the perimeter of the entire area. Holes are dug 0.5 meters wide and almost 1 meter deep.

The walls of the cuvettes are formed at a certain angle of 35 degrees. Melt or rainwater moves along the drainage inlet branches into the central ditch, and flows into the storm sewer with a spillway, relative to the degree of the relief. If ditches are laid along the plain, the drainage ditch will take the main load on itself, which will affect on decreasing water level next to the site. A clearly marked slope of the terrain towards the street promotes drainage.

To do this, drainage lines should be point outward. where a transverse trench has been dug to contain the release of water from the site into the storm drain. In the case of the opposite direction, a street transverse trench is dug parallel to the fence, and a longitudinal line is drawn slightly beyond the end of the site.

Storm drains and fill

When the drainage system moves inward, it is necessary to build storm drains. drainage into containers. Their careful organization will already half solve the problem of water drainage. The storm drain consists of:

pipe systems for drains and sewerage.

Large storage containers for water, for example, barrels or special wells, can act as reservoirs. Its depth is determined by the length of the drain pipe bend. The top of the structure should be covered with a fine mesh and sand traps to avoid clogging.

As the well is filled, the liquid is pumped out or several storage points are discharged into a common pipe, mounted at an angle of 30 degrees, through which the water flows into street ditches. In special cases, the well is equipped with a vibration pump.

Mechanism works in support mode. and monitors the level of water accumulation. Usually filled tanks serve as a source for irrigation in hot weather. Trench lines near the house look ugly, and the corners quickly crumble and the trench becomes shallow. For this reason, owners try to strengthen structures in different ways, and often crushed stone filling is used. consisting of 2 stages:

  1. The bottom of the ditch is filled with large crushed stone. and on top - with a fine fraction. Turf is laid on crushed stone.

Backfill stops soil movement. but the efficiency of the system decreases. An alternative to dumping is concrete or plastic drainage trays. They pave the ditch to support the walls, and metal gratings laid on top protect it from debris.

A beautiful dacha plot with your own hands. Crafts, garden and vegetable garden. How to design a dacha plot.

They quickly become overgrown with grass and become an extension of the lawn. The prefabricated structure is durable, reliable and especially suitable for those who are at risk of water entering the cellar. Important to remember! Crushed lime is pressed. Water does not pass through such a monolith.

The simplest technique for owners of small plots is open drainage. If its location on a hill is unsuccessful, water will begin to penetrate into the area in streams. Dig a hole along the site and the water will flow down like a river.

Channel usually sowed with grass.

The principle of deep drainage

The plot of land in a lowland or next to a reservoir is due to excessive moisture saturation, and simple reclamation techniques are no longer sufficient. Instead of trenches it is necessary lay drains(perforated pipes) and insulating materials. The deep drainage scheme looks like this:

  1. Water enters storage systems. Having filled the volume, it flows into the main pipe. It is moved into a well. It is discharged into a storm sewer or other water intake (river, ditch).

Important point. the pipeline must pass below the location of groundwater. To determine the level, you will have to contact surveyors. If we are not talking about protecting the foundation, it is permissible to simplify the course of work and place the structures in the ground, based on general calculations:

  • with the mineral composition of the soil, the depth of the ditch reaches 1.5 m; and the parameters for a flower garden vary between 0.5 -0.8 m; for garden trees - up to 1.5 m. forest species - 0.9 m.

In peat soil, the dug trench should correspond to 1 -1.6 m. The figures are due to the rapid subsidence of the earth. Polymers are used for reclamation perforated pipes with a grid of holes of 1.5 - up to 5 mm. Certain brands are equipped with a filter sieve that prevents clogging with small particles.

To purchase the right product, you should carry out design calculations, which take into account the degree of saturation with water, the type of soil, etc. Due to the high cost of services, homeowners buy pipes with a diameter of 100 mm.

Installation of drainage on the site

  • Are being dug out trenches half a meter wide. The depth is determined by the groundwater level. The bottom of the ditch is paved with a layer of sand and filled with crushed stone. Drains are laid. Polymer structures covered with crushed stone and sand. The filling, by definition, should occupy almost half of the trench. Free space filled with loam and on top with black soil or appropriate fertile soil.

It is advisable to use a layer of geotextile that resists mixing of the lower and upper layers. The purpose of the drainage well is to clean, flush the pipes with streams of water and control the entire system. Bulky reinforced concrete rings are inserted into the dug hole, but at a depth of up to 3 meters, plastic pipes with a diameter of up to 500 mm will do.

Round corrugated versions are also sold. But, any types of pipes involved will have to be additionally washed - once every three years, with a hose through the collector. The wells are placed along the trench, distancing themselves from the neighboring structure at intervals of 50 m. According to the rules, they are required to be mounted at turns and junctions of pits. The result of proper drainage is imperceptible for a glance, a functioning system, protects soil from washing out. and ensuring plant growth. In addition, the completed complex will ensure the stability and original appearance of sidewalk paths, since swelling of the soil is prevented.

drainage of a summer cottage

Reclamation of land is of great importance for growing plants and having a good rest in the summer at the dacha. Drainage is a necessary part of the construction work.

The main reasons for the accumulation of water at the dacha are melting snow, heavy heavy rains for many days. Drainage scheme at the dacha. Draining of the dacha begins with drainage of water around the house. Carrying out drainage at the dacha, they create storm drains, which are discharged into water storage tanks: large barrels or other containers . In the role of water storage tanks on a summer cottage there can be closed point deepened concrete wells, covered on top with nets and sand traps.

The water from them needs to be pumped out, or you can connect several of these points with a single pipe and lead it down a slope beyond the site into a roadside ditch. It is necessary to monitor the accumulation of water in them during the summer season.

The excess should be used for irrigation or pumped out using a pump, so that in places where water accumulates, many blood-sucking creatures do not hatch, which can easily ruin the entire summer holiday. Draining the dacha area improves the soil structure, keeps perennial plants from getting wet and helps keep the foundation of the dacha house in order.

Causes of high humidity in the country

Drainage scheme for a dacha plot. The land at a dacha plot can be waterlogged for several reasons. Either a swampy area was allocated for the construction of the dacha, or the site for construction was determined in a lowland, under a mountain, or the groundwater is close to the surface of the earth.

To determine the level of groundwater, when installing a fence on the site, you need to pay attention to the amount of water in the hole for the post. If there is water in a hole two meters deep until mid-July, despite dry weather, it means that the groundwater level is close to the surface of the earth.

The reason for this may be clay and peaty soils. All these disadvantages need to be turned into advantages by laying surface, linear, point drainage with your own hands.

With sufficient drainage of the site, the acidity of the soil, which occurs due to stagnation of water in the site, decreases. The destruction of the foundation of the house and the death of fruit trees, soaking of perennial crops, berry bushes and winter garlic are prevented.

And at the same time, there are some cultures that really love water. This must also be taken into account when draining a summer cottage with your own hands.

Drainage plan

Layout of a site with a drainage system. First, they draw up a plan for drainage work that will help drain the dacha area. When drawing up a plan, it is necessary to take into account the direction of water flow to the site, noting waterlogged places where the soil does not dry out to normal for a long time, preventing garden work from starting on time.

Decide which drainage of a summer cottage is most suitable: deep or surface, linear or point. To carry out reclamation work with your own hands, you will not need many tools and building materials. You can get by with just one shovel. To create a drainage system on your site, you will need: Do-it-yourself site drainage diagram.

  • bayonet and pick-up shovels; cement, sand gravel, water for pouring; iron pallet for mixing concrete; perforated pipes;
  • How to drain a site with your own hands, build drainage? Describe the drainage of the site, water removal. Diagram, tips. How to drain the area, remove excess water and moisture? Advise how to build drainage to remove excess moisture. Device, diagrams.

Excessive amounts of moisture can impede successful farming and contribute to the destruction of structures. Excess water washes away nutrients, contributes to soil salinity, and washes away building foundations and tree roots.

Water removal (drainage) is necessary if puddles form on the site after melting snow or heavy rain and last for several days. This indicates insufficient natural water drainage.

Where should the water be drained?

Before you start designing a drainage system, you need to understand where excess water will be drained. There are several options. This approach is recommended for use in regions where seasonal humidity fluctuations are large.

If it is very damp in the spring and drought in the summer, then it makes sense to collect water in the spring and use it for irrigation in the summer. Water is collected in special containers that can be buried or simply placed on the site. There is another option.

You can set up an artificial pond on the site and collect water in it. The village has a common water drainage system. Water can be drained into this system.

Decorating your summer cottage with your own hands

There is unoccupied territory around the site. Water can be diverted to this area. There is no possibility of water drainage .

In this case, excess moisture accumulates in tanks and is then removed by a sewer truck. Often approaches are combined. For example, water is stored in the spring and released in the fall. The need for drainage arises only on clay or loamy soils. On sandy soils, moisture is removed by itself.

Traditional drainage system

Organizing drainage according to the traditional scheme requires capital investments and a large amount of excavation work. The result will be semi-automatic operation. Within a week or two, water accumulates by gravity in the drainage well.

Then, as it accumulates, you pump it out of this well into a storage tank, a ditch along the edge of the site, or simply into the field/forest around. In the drainage well, the water level must be maintained below the desired groundwater level in the area, otherwise the water will stop flowing. There is a more economical, but no less effective way to organize drainage.

It is associated with high labor costs during operation. About it a little below. The traditional drainage system works like this. Parallel trenches are dug across the site at intervals of 4 to 6 meters, depending on the density of the soil.

On heavy soils you need to make trenches more often. Before starting work, you need to decide on a place for the drainage well. The entire system must have a smooth slope towards the well so that the water flows by gravity into this well.

The slope must be controlled using a building level. The lack of the required slope in at least a small section of the drainage trench can ruin the whole thing.

Those ends of the trench that are lower in level are connected to each other by a trench leading to the drainage well so that it has a slope towards this well. If it is not possible to connect this way, you can make several drainage wells.

The presence of wells at the points of connection or turning of the trenches will help when cleaning the system. A sand-gravel mixture of 3 - 5 cm is poured into the bottom of the trenches. Pipes are laid in the trenches for drainage. These are usually polymer pipes with holes.

It is important to ensure that the holes are not clogged with dirt. To do this, the pipes are wrapped in geotextile or coconut fiber. There is also an artificial fiber that looks very similar to coconut fiber.

My experience has shown that geotextiles are completely ineffective in this matter. It gets clogged within a couple of years and stops letting water through. Choose coconut fiber or its synthetic analogue. The trenches are filled to the top with a sand-gravel mixture.

In general, the pipe should not come into contact with natural soil. It should be surrounded on all sides by sand and gravel.

2 Drainage in a summer cottage with your own hands: types of drainage ^

on the topicVideo of the drainage system of the site Click on Play to view

Draining a summer cottage is especially important when the groundwater level is about 2.5 meters from the surface, and is strongly recommended if this level is 1.5 meters. A drainage system is a necessary safety measure, because water can destroy even a solid building. The groundwater level is not the only factor that should be used to guide the construction of drainage systems. It is also recommended to do the drainage of the site yourself if:

  • the dacha area is located in a lowland; the garden plot is located on a slope or near the side of a hill; the dacha has clay soils.

You can do two types of drainage at your summer cottage with your own hands:

  1. deep drainage system. This system is relevant if groundwater is close to the surface. It is necessary to protect basements from flooding and remove excess moisture from the garden. It is always recommended to carry out deep drainage around the house. In the garden and vegetable garden, installation of such a system is required if the soil is clay. Surface drainage system. Serves for drainage of water falling in the form of precipitation (rain, snow). Combines effectively with storm drainage. The surface system, in turn, is divided into point and linear.

Point surface drainage is a water inlet where water flows from drainpipes. The purpose of such drainage is to retain water, preventing the appearance of puddles and dirt. Essentially, this is a small well that is separated by a siphon partition.

The partition is a lattice, which is necessary so that heavy contaminants settle in one of the sections, and an unpleasant odor from stagnant water does not appear. In order to further clean the drainage from debris, you can equip the receiving section with a special basket. A linear drainage system is a network of trays located at a slope to the water collection point.

The trays are installed in trenches on a gravel base. This system involves collecting moisture from fairly large areas: drainage around the house, along paths, in summer cottages.

Linear drainage is effective when the slope of the entire site is more than 3 degrees relative to the horizon, when the cottage is located lower than neighboring areas. Studying the geology of the site will help you find out what type of drainage should be installed. Such research can be ordered from specialized companies.

3 Draining a summer cottage with your own hands using deep drainage ^

on the topicVideo of drainage at a summer cottageClick on Play to view

A practical and economical summer resident will appreciate garden drainage created from scrap materials. It is necessary to dig a ditch, fill it with branches and other objects that will create conditions for the passage of water, and cover it with earth.

This is a simple, free and fast way to organize drainage. The effectiveness of this method is not very high, and the drainage will have to be updated very often. Therefore, it is better to invest money and labor once to create competent deep drainage. Stages of performing work on creating deep drainage with your own hands:

  • Study of the relief. For this, a laser range finder and a level are useful (devices with a laser beam that will help determine the distance and height difference between several points); Digging trenches for drainage pipes. Characteristics of the trench: depth – 80–100 cm, width –40 cm, slope to the horizontal – 2–3 cm per meter of length, in the lower part of the drain the slope increases to 4 cm per meter. The bottom of the trenches is covered with a layer of sand 70–100 mm and compacted; A geotextile fabric is laid on top of the sand, the edges of which should be slightly higher than the trench; Crushed stone is poured on top with a layer of 200 mm;

Limestone crushed stone should not be used in the construction of drainage systems; it can cause an increased salt content in the soil.

  • Pipes for drainage are laid in the trenches with holes on a layer of crushed stone filter; A layer of crushed stone is poured again; The edges of the geotextile are rolled up. The pipe is wrapped in a layer of crushed stone and fabric, which will allow water to pass through and retain soil particles; The trenches are covered with earth or pre-cut turf; The final stage of the drainage installation will be a collector well. It is located at the lowest point of the dacha territory. Water can be discharged from a well into a reservoir, ravine, or storm drain.

4 Drainage systems for summer cottages: surface drainage ^

on topicVideo of surface drainageClick on Play to view

The purpose of a surface drainage system at a summer cottage is to collect and drain water. Surface drainage of a site is simpler to implement than deep drainage. In this case, there is no need to dig up the territory of the dacha with deep ditches.

The drainage system can be made in bulk or in tray form. But the initial stages are always standard:

  1. Study of the terrain. Drawing up a diagram of the location of trenches. Usually it looks like this: main trenches go along the perimeter of the entire site, and additional ones - from places where water accumulates; Ditches are dug: depth - 70 cm, width - 50 cm. Main ditches are dug with a slope towards the collector, and auxiliary ones with a slope towards the main ;The walls of the trench must be beveled at an angle of 25–30°.

If the backfill method is used, then crushed stone is poured into the trenches, filling 2/3 of the depth. The rest of the space is occupied by crushed stone of a smaller fraction. Crushed stone can be wrapped in geotextile. Turf is laid on top.

The entrepreneur drained the swamp with his own money

If you are using a tray-assembled system, you must select trays. Trays are ready-made products that serve for drainage and storm water. They can be made of concrete, plastic, concrete with the addition of polymers. Stages of creating drainage using trays:

  • sand is poured into the prepared trenches in a layer of about 10 cm. The sand is carefully compacted. Trays and special plastic parts are installed on top of the sand, designed to retain sand and other small debris - sand traps. The trays are covered with a grid so that large debris does not get into the system and to give it a neat appearance view.

Almost every site needs one or another drainage system. For some, it will be enough to establish surface drainage around the house, while others will have to dig deep trenches. But in any case, the efforts will not be in vain.

You will protect your home and garden from the harmful effects of excess moisture, and make your dacha a pleasant place to relax.

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The water on the site never left anyone indifferent. Both owners of various suburban land plots and owners of high land are once faced with the following question: how can they drain their land, especially in early spring - just at this time, due to melt water, the water level on the site begins to rise, although and for a short time.

So, you need to figure out what dehumidification options are available, which of them should be used and at what time?

Land drainage options

The first option, which is the easiest and quite possible for a large number of people, is to plant plants that can hold a large amount of moisture. It’s quite difficult to call this method truly excellent, but for most people it is the only solution. For example, when you need to drain a small one, and there is a house in the middle of an already planned area. In such a situation, birch or oak trees, which are considered moisture lovers, are best suited, and they help reduce water in the soil.

Another effective way is to raise the soil level. This is not so difficult to do - you just need to find out where inexpensive land is available, order several trucks and evenly raise the land to the required height. However, it must be remembered that it is best to do this when the house has not yet been built, otherwise there will be a risk that all the water on the ground will collect in the lowest place, namely near the house, and then it may even turn into more bad problem.

2.​ Drainage of water from a specific piece of land.

When the soil on a site is very porous, then it simply will not be able to retain water for a certain time, which is so necessary for plants to absorb it well. If, on the contrary, the soil is quite dense, then it will allow water to be retained on the surface itself and, this way, it will not get directly to the roots of the plant itself. If you want to find out exactly what the density of your soil is, then you should dig a small hole, about 1 m deep, and pour water into that place. If the water disappears completely over time, your soil will become very porous. If after a couple of days it does not disappear completely, then its density will be quite high.

What drainage methods are available?

The most effective way to do drainage is to correctly lay special pipes exactly so that they are placed underground, if done in places where the soil is heavy and very clayey, or peaty. It is quite possible to make such a system using plastic pipes, which are laid in trenches at a depth of 70 cm. It is also an excellent system in which the pipes are placed in a “herringbone” pattern - in this case there must be one main pipe and several side pipes extending from it. In this case, the largest pipe must have a diameter of about 10 cm and be at a slight slope. The diameter of the side pipes can be smaller, about 7 cm. It is also necessary to look at where exactly all the unnecessary water on the ground will go - it is advisable to direct the drain somewhere into a ditch or a nearby stream. If there is nothing of this kind, then an excellent solution would be to build a small well, even 1 m deep, which must be built in the lowest place in your garden.

Imagine that you have already purchased a great plot of land, but when it rains heavily, it simply turns into a swamp. You have to go there all weekend to work on this garden, however, in order to take it and walk through it, you have to walk barefoot - the amount of water on the ground may be such that rubber boots simply cannot help, water will sneak into them. This is very noticeable in the spring, when the entire area may be under water. Because of this, all plantings may soon rot - in the first season it is worth deciding which drainage system to choose. To lay drainage pipes, it is necessary to dig a large number of ditches on the site, and the pipes are very expensive.

Nowadays, a large number of people use a very funny drainage system that is not worth spending money on. To do this, they simply collect the top layer of soil right down to the clay, and in its place they throw various branches, as well as tree trunks. From above you need to dump all the earth that was previously collected before. This method is very simple, it won’t last long, and similar actions will have to be taken all seasons - and it takes a lot of time to complete all these actions.

Own drainage system

One of the best options is open drainage of the land. The first thing to do for this is to dig a ditch along the very perimeter of the entire territory. An excavator can be suitable for this, which can save a lot of time and effort. To enter the territory, you can easily place a pipe in the groove and pour crushed stone on top of it. After the ditch has been dug around the entire perimeter, you can make sure that all the water on the ground drains into the main ditch, which should be placed strictly along the road. In addition, you can use an excavator to make a small one in the center - it will be an excellent reservoir for water after the snow melts or heavy rains. Well, of course, it is necessary to do it in such a way that water from the entire territory can flow directly into the ditches.

Many people solve this problem by raising the general level of the ground - for this it is worth purchasing additional land. It must be remembered that 1 cu. m. of land can cover about 40 square meters. m of area on the ground, with a layer level of 25 mm. If you calculate correctly, then for a lawn you need a layer of about 10 cm, for sowing seeds - about 15 mm, but for various ornamental plants or shrubs you need about 40 cm of new soil. At the same time, the imported soil may not be of very high quality and may contain weed seeds, stones, wood chips or even microbes.

Alternatively, you can increase the level of all those places where you want to grow all your plantings. Plantings can be easily planted along the perimeter by allocating a strip of about 3 m. Along this strip, leave a 1 m path, which will be a ditch. With this land, you can raise the level of the place where those plantings will grow in the future. Therefore, there is no need to purchase any excess soil, but connect the ditch with the main ditch along the route, where all excess water on the land plot will then drain.

When working with, the distance between them should be left about 50 cm, while completely removing all the soil from this distance to the clay itself, and again raising the ground level of all the beds. All the water in the local area will drain through these ditches, without greatly moistening your beds. As a result of all these actions, you will notice that the soil level in all these places will rise significantly, which will have a great effect on the overall appearance of your garden.

How to use gardening equipment?


If you have started all this work, then it is much easier to do it when the soil is a little damp - although it is the heaviest, nevertheless, dry soil is more difficult to process with a shovel, and even with special equipment. It is very convenient to use a motor cultivator for digging ditches. The acquisition of this equipment will definitely justify itself, especially if you approach it with great responsibility. Basically, it weighs about 10 kg and helps to cultivate all the beds and do a large number of other works in the local area. A motor cultivator can plow loose soil, which after this process can be immediately dumped directly onto the beds, leaving behind a certain ditch.

Drainage effect (Video)

Just in this simple way you can create a personal drainage system in your local area. It will work perfectly, there will be no flooding. Before each season, it is imperative to carefully clean all ditches, including the main one, as well as passages, so that no water remains in them at all. The big disadvantage is that during heavy rain, the ditches fill with water, and you can only move around in boots. However, you can definitely forget about the fact that your plantings will suffer from excess water, since all the water in the local area now passes directly through the soil and flows directly down the ditches. But in the summer you will be able to move around the garden in only slippers, enjoying your personal harvest!

You can learn more about the arrangement of the drainage system in our video

Many people believe that the higher the soil moisture, the better for plants. In reality this is not entirely true. There are many plants that thrive in a humid environment. These include weeping willow, birch, currants, sedge, nettle, etc. However, most crops are not able to develop in overly moist soil, since it becomes very compacted, which deprives the plant roots of access to air and gradually leads to their death. In addition, wet soil has a detrimental effect on buildings, reducing the life of the foundation. To solve this problem, it is necessary to build a pile foundation. However, you can get rid of all these problems by draining the area yourself. The main thing is to accurately determine the cause of its swampiness. There are a number of different drying methods. To choose the most suitable one among them, you need to consider the following factors:

  • presence of buildings on the site;
  • direction and level of groundwater occurrence;
  • soil composition, its water resistance;
  • height to which it is necessary to reduce the groundwater level.

The main causes of excess soil moisture

In some cases, it is not easy even for specialists to establish the reason why a swamp has formed on a plot of land. As a rule, excessive soil moisture is caused by two main reasons:

  • The location of the land plot in a low-lying reservoir, as a result of which groundwater is located quite close to the surface. This reason is not often confirmed, since few people buy land in wetlands.
  • Disruption of normal water flow due to heavy rainfall. This problem can be caused by a variety of factors, including the location of the site below adjacent sites, the presence of a water source feeding the swamp, or the presence of a layer of viscous clay near the surface. Each specific situation uses its own solution to the problem.

High location of groundwater

To drain groundwater located near the surface, a fairly deep closed-type drainage is used. It is placed around the perimeter and throughout the entire area of ​​the land plot. If draining water deep into the ground does not lead to the desired result, then it is necessary to construct a drainage well and use a pump to constantly pump out the water and discharge it outside the site.

Clay soil

Soil with a high clay content does not allow water to seep through easily, so it remains soggy for a long time after rain and snow melt. If a piece of land has a slope, then water flows from the soil surface located above it. In such cases, the best solution is to use open and fill ditches to store and drain water deeper into the soil. The use of closed-type drainage is not so effective, and the formation of a filtration layer to the soil surface is not justified in all cases.

swampy area

A very effective, but extremely expensive solution is to raise the soil level and build a drainage ditch around the perimeter. Before you begin draining a plot of land, you need to decide on plans for its future use and calculate the optimal depth of water drainage. In case of seasonal waterlogging of the site, you can dig a ditch in its lowest part. In addition, it is necessary to arrange open drainage channels, which are often located throughout the entire site. Sloping areas must be protected from soil sliding by planting plants.

Location of the site in the lowland

To combat waterlogging, you can use a drainage well and pump. If possible, it makes sense to build a reservoir in the lowest part of the territory and make closed drainage throughout its entire area. The soil should be drained until conditions for development are provided for plants and the foundations of buildings do not collapse.

Soil delivery

To increase the surface level of the site, you can bring in fresh fertile soil. If you plow it, it will mix with the marshy soil, and crops can be grown on the site. Land plots treated in this way do not require fertilizers over the next few years. But we still need to take into account that a swamp is a stable ecosystem, so after some time the area can return to its original appearance.

Adding sand

If you add sand in equal proportions to the soil of the site, the quality of the soil will improve and air exchange will increase. If you additionally add humus, you can grow herbs, berries, and vegetables on the site. Adding sand to wetlands is one of the most effective reclamation methods. It is especially effective when used on clay soils with some excess surface water.

Drainage

The most effective method of draining surface water for a long time is to create a drainage system. For its arrangement, plastic pipes are used, the walls of which have small holes. They need to be wrapped in geotextile in two or three layers, based on the size of the soil particles. The pipes are placed in pre-dug channels to the following depth:

  • for sandy soils - up to one meter;
  • for loams - by seventy to ninety centimeters;
  • for clay soils - by sixty-five to seventy-five centimeters.

Channels for pipes are made with a slope to allow water to flow to the lower part of the land plot. In gardens located in wetlands, a ditch is usually dug for general water drainage. In case of its absence, it is necessary to consider how to ensure the drainage of excess water into a nearby reservoir. Channels can be filled with gravel or crushed stone. When using this technology, the situation improves significantly after two weeks.

Planting moisture-loving trees

Moisture-loving trees help effectively rid a wetland of excess moisture. Birch, willow and alder grow well on such soil. They evaporate excess moisture through the leaves. Birch and willow trees effectively drain wetlands, but sufficient drying takes several years. In addition, waterlogged soils are suitable for growing viburnum, blueberries, and cranberries. Sedges and reeds usually grow in wetlands. To destroy them, you need to drain the area in a suitable way, for example, by draining excess water into the nearest body of water. These plants have a powerful root system, and to prevent the appearance of new growth it is necessary to remove it.

Use of open and closed ditches

Using open drainage ditches you can remove excess moisture from the soil surface. Their edges are beveled at an angle of twenty degrees. The disadvantages of this method include rapid shedding of the walls, stagnation of water due to contamination of its outflow with debris and leaves. For this reason, such drainage structures require regular shoveling. The use of open drainage ditches in areas with sandy soil is impossible due to the rapid leaching of sand, as a result of which water drainage is ineffective. It is best to arrange an open drainage ditch near the fence so that it does not create any interference. Closed drainage ditches are deep trenches that are filled with sand and disguised as garden paths. Their advantages lie in aesthetics, and also in the fact that the soil in them does not crumble, and the water inside does not bloom. In order for the drainage system to function correctly, trenches are dug to a layer of sand that absorbs water, or drained into a well.

Digging a well or pond

Arranging a decorative pond allows you to create a reservoir to collect excess water, where it will gradually evaporate. At the same time, the land plot will become much drier, and the pond itself will become a decoration of the landscape. Wells are no less effective than ditches. To arrange them, holes are dug at the lowest points of the land plot and sand or crushed stone is poured into them. In the upper part, the diameter of the pits is 2 m, in the lower part - 0.5 m, and the length is approximately 1 m. After rain or snow melts, excess water gradually flows into them.

Raised beds

To grow strawberries, vegetables, and herbs on excessively wet land plots, high beds are arranged. Excess water collects between them, and the plant beds become drier. This method allows you to cultivate agricultural plants even in areas with excess water.

Large amounts of water interfere with farming and contribute to the destruction of structures. In addition, excess moisture washes nutrients from the soil. A foundation exposed to the constant influence of water deteriorates over time, so it is important for owners faced with such a problem to figure out how to drain the area of ​​water with their own hands.

Water drainage is necessary only on loamy and clayey soils. Sandstones do not need water drainage, since they themselves play the role of drainage.

Choosing a method

To drain water from a summer cottage, several methods are used. Before you start choosing the right one, you need to consider the following nuances:

  • How permeable is the soil on the site?
  • In what direction does groundwater move?
  • The time in which the work needs to be completed.
  • Number of buildings on the territory of the dacha plot.

Method 1

It is possible to organize groundwater drainage without using pipes. To do this, you need to dig deep trenches, which are subsequently filled with filter material. The best option for this purpose would be crushed stone and sand. They need to be covered in layers. In this case, it is advisable to use peat, which effectively protects the backfill from dirt.

Method 2

You can drain the area from groundwater using a pipe system. Experts recommend using perforated polymer pipes. The pipe must be laid below the freezing level of the ground.

When using ordinary sewer pipes to drain liquid, holes must be made in them.

How to do the job step by step

Instructions for installing soft drainage

You can use the economical method. But in the process of performing work you need to be prepared for high labor costs. To install drainage you will need:

  • hacksaw;
  • shovel;
  • drainage pipes;
  • manual rammer;
  • building level and lath;
  • wheelbarrow;
  • geotextiles;
  • crushed stone;
  • sand.

The order of work will be as follows:

  1. At the initial stage, you need to dig trenches that should be located parallel to each other. It is important to maintain a distance of 4 meters between ditches. It is worth noting that the step must be taken taking into account the density of the soil. On heavy soils take a smaller step.
  2. Choose a place to install a drainage well.
  3. When performing work, you need to make a system with a slope to drain water into the well. For this purpose it is worth using a building level.

Closed drainage technology

  1. When installing the system, the ends of the dug trenches are connected into one and lead to a drainage well. It is worth remembering that the trench must be located on a slope. If it is not possible to complete the work using this method, you need to make several drainage wells.
  2. A cushion of a mixture of gravel and sand is placed at the bottom of the trenches. The layer thickness can reach 50 mm.
  3. Now you can begin laying the drainage pipes. The most commonly used are perforated polymer products.
  4. Before laying the pipes, it is important to wrap them with geotextiles. This is necessary to prevent clogging of the holes during their operation. An analogue of the material is coconut fiber.
  5. Having laid the pipes in place, the trench is covered with crushed stone and sand. During the work process, it is necessary to limit the contact of pipes with the soil as much as possible.

How to make point drainage

If you don’t want to make a large-scale system, you can give preference to point drainage.

  1. For this purpose, holes are made around the perimeter of the site, the depth of which must be at least 2 m. A distance of 5 m can be maintained between the holes. The diameter of the holes depends on the size of the pipe that will subsequently need to be inserted into them.
  2. A mixture of sand and gravel is poured into the bottom of the holes.
  3. At the next stage, pipe sections wrapped in coconut fiber are inserted vertically. It is important to select a pipe diameter such that the drainage pump can fit into it.

Using this method, it is necessary to regularly pump out water from the holes. On average, once a week will be enough. Pumping out water is simple and the process does not take much time.

The above method of draining an area is applicable only if you need to remove a small amount of water when the groundwater level is low.

Draining swampy areas

In order to drain a swampy area, you can resort to a not entirely standard, but effective method.

  1. Work should begin by marking the direction of the drainage trenches. There is no need for large wide trenches. The ditch should be up to 30 cm wide and two shovels deep. Marking is carried out using rope and pegs. The ditch system should be sloped in a herringbone pattern. Boundary ditches can merge into one main one.
  2. Before you start digging, you need to lay out polyethylene on both sides of the future ditch. Sod is laid on one side and a layer of infertile soil on the other side.
  3. Once the ditch is ready, you can place empty plastic bottles in two layers (pre-twisted). They are analogous to special drainage pipes. They are durable and perform their function perfectly.
  4. Place infertile soil on top of the bottles up to half of the ditch and compact it.
  5. At the final stage, turf is laid.

The main function of this method is the flow of water through the free spaces into the main ditch. Thus, after rains and snow, the soil will dry out faster.

Video

Watch a video on how to drain a site:

This video shows how drainage work is carried out on the site:

Photo