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» Electrical connection of the boiler oasis gas valve. Oasis gas boilers. Gas consumption and performance

Electrical connection of the boiler oasis gas valve. Oasis gas boilers. Gas consumption and performance

In this article we will look at the Oasis gas boiler of the NZR series (available in 4 modifications). The number after the abbreviation “NZR” indicates the power of this boiler. For example, the Oasis NZR 13 model has a thermal power of 13 kW.

Since all modifications have similar characteristics, we will denote their numerical expression in a range.

We have a certain residential or administrative area, which has its own dimensions. This is what salon managers are targeting customers with. household appliances when choosing a boiler. But at the same time, the features of the building or apartment are absolutely not taken into account:

  1. What material is the building made of? For example, private houses made of profiled timber are considered warm, and concrete “Khrushchev” buildings in this regard cause a lot of criticism;
  2. how is it insulated? After all, even in city apartments there are differences. Someone does, for example, internal insulation, glazing of a loggia or balcony;
  3. year of construction (applies to apartment buildings). You need to understand that in different periods there were significant differences in construction technology, and the service life reduces the quality of thermal insulation of premises. Consequently, a more powerful boiler is needed;
  4. location of the house. It can either be “open” to all winds, or, conversely, blocked by other houses, a forest belt, a hill, and the like. The climate in the area must also be taken into account.

The approximate power that the boiler should have is determined at the rate of 10 kW per 100 m2 of room (ceilings standard height). But if any mechanism is “driven” to the limit, then it will not work for long. That is why the power calculated in this way is increased by a third (the required reserve).

If a multi-storey building is built according to modern technologies, and the private one is well insulated, then you can be guided by the ratio (5 - 7) kW per 100 m 2. For old or poorly insulated buildings (“Khrushchev-era buildings”), the “formula” (15 – 20) per 100 m2 is used.

Characteristics of Oasis boilers

The Oasis boiler is a gas boiler, but it cannot operate on liquefied gas. All models are designed only for natural gas - conversion to liquefied gas is not provided and is impossible. Due to this, the boiler can only be used in buildings connected to the gas supply system.

In relation to the “average” structure, the Oasis boiler of various modifications is capable of heating the area (m2):

  • NZR 13 – up to 100;
  • NZR 16 – up to 120;
  • NZR 20 – up to 160 – 180;
  • NZR 24 – up to 200 – 220.

The volume of the membrane (expansion) tank of the gas “Oasis” is 6 liters. This must be taken into account if the boiler is selected for a private home. You may have to install an additional tank (if there is a large volume of coolant).

The boiler heat exchanger is made of copper and can withstand large hydraulic shocks, which is important for apartment buildings where the heating system is pressure tested before each season.

All Oasis gas boilers are double-circuit, so in addition to heating they also provide hot water supply. Depending on the automation settings, the water temperature can be from 36 to 60 0 C. The productivity of the DHW circuit is 10 l/min (for the NZR 24 model - 12 l/min) - quite sufficient to satisfy all the domestic needs of a family of 5 - 7 people.

Installation and connection

The Oasis boiler is a wall-mounted model. Unlike floor-standing devices, it does not require boiler room equipment; it can be installed even in small rooms.

Important! The gas boiler cannot be installed in living rooms or where present excess humidity. Most often it is installed in the kitchen.

Fastening is done either with anchors or large screws, since the weight of the boilers is comparable to the weight of a regular gas water heater, and the dimensions are approximately the same.

The described gas boilers are produced with a closed combustion chamber. What does this mean? To ensure the combustion process, an air flow is required. A device with a closed chamber in this regard is isolated from the room in which it is mounted. Air is supplied from outside using a fan equipped with the boiler.

Therefore, before purchasing the Oasis product, you need to think about installing a special coaxial chimney. For private houses this is not a problem, but installation in an apartment will require specialist advice. Although such models are considered safer and more environmentally friendly.

Gas consumption and performance

The use of a coaxial chimney significantly increases productivity. This feature of the chamber ensures complete combustion of gas, which increases efficiency and makes the boiler more efficient to use.

The consumption of “blue fuel” depends on the specific design of the boiler and ranges from 1.45 to 2.6 m 3 /h.

Automation system

The user only needs to set the required parameters of the coolant and water in the DHW circuit. Electronics gas boiler itself will maintain the desired mode. To determine malfunctions or malfunctions, diagnostics of all systems with appropriate indications is provided.

"Oasis" is provided with protection against concentration carbon monoxide(draft sensor), freezing, formation of salt deposits.

conclusions

Let's summarize all of the above:

  • The Oasis gas boiler is perfect for any city apartment or small private house connected to the gas main. It is also advisable to use it for small industrial or administrative buildings;
  • Provides both warmth and hot water;
  • “Oasis” can be installed even in a small, non-separate room;
  • Installation of a coaxial type chimney is required. When connected to a common house smoke exhaust system, the boiler must be provided with a separate air flow.

It should be added that the manufacturer provides a 2-year warranty on its products.


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Gas boilers Oasis

Heating boiler Oasis zrt 24. When you turn on the hot water, it's coming hot Not only is there water in the tap, but the batteries are also heating up, and the pump is slightly noisy. All this is in summer mode.

Most likely, the problem is in the operation of the three-way valve and servomotor.

Check whether the servo rod is fully actuated when opening the hot water tap. There may be a malfunction of the servo drive or souring of the rod.

Model ZRT-18. Water is leaking from the pressure valve. Does anyone have any ideas or what did they do to fix the leak? In operation for 6 years.

Unscrew and check the leaking valve and replace it if necessary.

The wall-mounted gas boiler Oasis 18 operates at full capacity and does not turn off. On the display, the indicator shows an open tap icon, so the gas supply does not turn off, unless manually.

Perhaps the flow sensor is shorted, or the rod in the three-way valve is stuck.

Check the flow sensor and stroke.

Oasis zrt 24. When igniting, there is a problem (DHW mode or heating - no difference): the relay switches on and off with a crackling noise, even when a flame appears, and only after a few seconds of burning it burns evenly, without failures. Sometimes it doesn’t light up on the first try, but I’ve never made an error yet. The idea is to test the serviceability of the flame control sensor and the serviceability of the pressure switch.

It is necessary to check the flame ionization sensor, and also clean the ignition electrodes and burner nozzles. Wall-mounted gas boiler Oasis 24 kW with connected external thermostat. The problem is this: when the temperature is set on the thermostat, say 30 degrees, the unit starts to work, while the pump runs almost continuously and the pressure constantly increases, to 3 and above, when the temperature in the room reaches the set value, the pressure in it drops to 0 and jumps out error E9. I raise the pressure (I add water to the system), it starts to drip somewhere from below, I set the thermostat to a higher temperature - then the problem repeats itself. Tell me, what could be the cause of the malfunction?

IN

expansion tank

After five years of normal operation, the boiler began to display error E2. At first, when starting, there were clicks from the relay, but the error did not appear. Then the relay began to click while the unit was running, and it went out. Now the error occurs either at startup or during operation. I think it’s a pressure switch, because I turned the adjusting screw on it to the plus side by one turn, and the device did not give an error, although the relay clicking remained both during start-up and during operation, but its time was reduced. What else could be the reason? I removed the venturi tube, it is clean, the fan is the same, the blades are clean. I checked the ignition electrodes, all connections and pads, removed the control board for loose soldering, and the fastening of the sensors. I discovered that the electric drive was dangling

three way valve

(the rod moves). I fixed it by turning the locking plate over, but this did not affect the operation of the boiler. It also works with the relay clicking, but the second day it hasn't stopped even once. In my opinion, everything comes down to the pressure switch.

Check the pressure switch tubes for condensation and remove it if necessary. If there is no condensate or removing it does not help, then replace the pressure switch and install a condensate drain. The problem is with the erko dwp 15-50 a circulation pump. The pump volute, plastic, leaked. How to remove the pump? The pump needs to be replaced. To dismantle circulation pump, need to be removed

front panel unit, unscrew the two screws from the bottom of the pump and remove the two clips on the inlet and outlet pipes of the pump. Gas wall-mounted boiler Oasis 24 kW. The house (120 square meters) has heated floors. The floors take a long time to warm up, but then retain heat for a long time.

The circulation pump turns on every 5 minutes, but there is no point in this, since the burner turns on no more than twice an hour. Please tell me, is it possible to change the pump activation interval? By the way, I’m happy with the boiler, I switched it to propane, it works well, in cold weather the consumption is about 2 cylinders for 6 days. The only thing I had to do was add an extra one expansion tank and liquefied gas. The pump works correctly, achieving uniform heat transfer by passing the coolant. It is impossible to change the interval at which the pump is turned on; it is only possible to set it to continuous operation.

The Oasis VM-24, double-circuit boiler is in operation. There was a problem like this. When the pump periodically turns on, the turbine turns on along with it and runs for about 30 seconds, then turns off, and the pump continues to drive water. Ignition does not occur because the water in the system has not yet cooled down to the set point. With a circulation pump, everything is clear why the turbine turns on. This doesn't happen often, but I still noticed it.

Turning on the turbine independently does not have any negative impact on the operation of the unit. This can happen when the hot water supply circuit is turned on, which is normal, or due to the fact that an unauthorized turn-on signal is received at the turbine starting capacitor. This can occur due to stray currents, the presence of which can be diagnosed by measuring currents on the gas pipe.

If there are currents, it is necessary to install a dielectric coupling.

Gas double-circuit boiler Oasis BM-16. Connected to heating and water. The heating works normally, but when hot water is turned on, the indicator (faucet) does not light up. This happened in the fall, but within 2-3 days it fixed itself. At the beginning of spring, problems began, the water began to heat up every once in a while, and in the end it did not turn on at all. Please tell me in detail, can I fix it myself or should I look for a professional? If the boiler's DHW circuit does not work, then probable cause

– a flow sensor, which is installed in the cold water inlet pipe into the DHW circuit. It represents a turbine that could tilt or become clogged, thereby ceasing to give a signal that water is leaking in the pipe. You can check the condition of the sensor yourself by turning off the water and unscrewing the cold water supply from the unit’s pipe. Make sure the sensor is not jammed and can rotate freely.

Who has encountered such a malfunction of the BM-16 boiler? The water is heated to the set temperature

Tell me what to do, I welded an automatic air vent into the heating system, after which I began to start the boiler. It turns on, ignites, then the pump starts humming, error E9 appears on the display and stops working. I can't find the reason.

Error E9 indicates insufficient pressure in the heating system. On the pressure gauge when the boiler is turned off, the pressure should be at least 0.8 bar.

If it is lower, then add water to the system using the make-up tap.

It is also possible that there is air in the circulation pump - release the air by loosening the plug in the center of the front of the pump.

A wall-mounted boiler Oasis NZR-13 was installed. The problem is the following: I set the heating temperature to a maximum of 80 degrees. The heating outlet pipe is very hot, the radiators are slightly warm. I invited a specialist from the service center. He looked and said that a lot of gas is supplied, the unit quickly gains temperature and turns off, but does not have time to flush out the water in the system (pump at third speed). Now he is trying to reduce the gas pressure, and something is not working. Maybe you can tell me where and how this is done?

Most likely, scale has formed in the heat exchanger, which leads to boiling water. The second reason is wear of the pump, weak rotation of the impeller, or simply dirt. The heat exchanger and pump need to be checked and cleaned.

Heating boiler zrt 24 kW. When cold, when first started, it works normally, but with a characteristic noise, as if there was air in the system or like it was boiling. Subsequent warm-ups with the same noise, but the temperature quickly rises and it goes out. DHW is working fine. Explain what the reason could be?

Most likely, there is scale in the secondary heat exchanger; it needs to be cleaned. The boiler turns off because the overheating sensor is triggered.

Wall-mounted double-circuit boiler Oasis VM-24 kW. I bought a house, this unit was installed, it would soon be cold, and the heating was terrible. It runs once, turns off, 2 batteries are hot and the other is warm. Then it turns on only after 4-5 hours, and the batteries quickly cool down. It's +10 outside, and we're already freezing. I thought the thermostat was broken, I disconnected the wires, then connected them together, but it didn’t turn on. Why dont know. In theory, it should have turned on immediately and warmed up. And now a strange nasty squeak appeared. Tell me how to fix everything, please?

A characteristic squeaking sound can come from the expansion tank (it bleeds air from the spool), or from the circulation pump, which needs to be checked and the air bleed through the central plug.

Error codes for Oasis gas wall boilers

Error E1- No gas - Open the gas tap. Gas valve defective - Replace gas valve. The electrodes do not see the flame - Clean or replace the ionization electrodes. The control board is disconnected or faulty - Check the quality of connections of all wires. Replace the board if necessary. If replacement does not help, then the diagnosis was performed incorrectly.

Error E2- No draft in the chimney (clogged) - Check the chimney. Venturi tube is faulty or clogged - Clean or replace Venturi tube.

Draft condensate has accumulated in the silicone tubes - Check the tubes and the quality of their connections. The draft sensor (air pressure switch) is faulty - Check the functionality of the sensor and replace it if necessary. The turbine does not work - Check the operation of the turbine and replace it if necessary. Error E3

- Heat exchanger overheating - Check that the valves at the inlet and outlet of the heating circuit are open. Malfunction of the overheating sensor - Replace the sensor. In working condition, the sensor is closed. Opening at 92C. Error E4 - The coolant overheating sensor (94C) has tripped - Check the cause high temperature

. The coolant overheating sensor is faulty - If the boiler does not resume operation when it cools down, replace the sensor. Error E5

. The coolant overheating sensor is faulty - If the boiler does not resume operation when it cools down, replace the sensor.(for RT model) - Incorrect settings in the center of the CL parameter of the service menu. (for BM model) - Incoming sensor DHW temperature

- Poor contact. If defective, replace it. Error E6

- DHW outlet temperature sensor - Poor contact. If defective, replace it.- Heating outlet temperature sensor - Poor contact.

If defective, replace it. Error E8

- Ionization (flame) sensor - Dirty - clean. Doesn't work - replace. Error E9 - The water pressure sensor has tripped. The pressure in the heating system is below 0.5 bar or above 3 bar. Check the pressure gauge. Open the feed tap and restore pressure. Reset overpressure automatic valve. In this case, from silicone tube

water will flow. The water pressure sensor is faulty - If the pressure gauge shows that there is pressure, then the water pressure sensor needs to be replaced. Error E0

- A temperature of less than 1C is recorded in the DHW or heating circuit - Carry out work on errors E5, 6 and 7. Monitor the temperature entering the boiler.

Oasis boiler. Twice already there was something incomprehensible. It is turned on for heating with a temperature of 55 degrees, everything seems to work. But suddenly I looked at the display, the number 07 appeared, and the unit was working non-stop and the batteries could no longer be touched - they were hot. I tried to turn it off with the buttons - it didn’t respond. Just unplug it. What problems did he have? Maybe it's completely broken? I plugged it in and it works fine again. I'm afraid to leave him unattended. Suddenly there will be failures again. What about him?

Most likely there is a problem with the control board and it needs to be replaced.

In the VM-16 boiler, water is boiling at the DHW inlet, the flow sensor has burned out, and steam is leaking from the American connection. Gas workers said that these models have this feature.

The cause of such a malfunction, overheating and failure of the DHW sensor could be a heat exchanger that became clogged and failed.

I bought a gas boiler Oasis BM-24. I want to switch it to bottled (liquefied) gas. What pressure should be set? And what other settings need to be changed in the service menu? I already bought the injectors. And another question: should I change the pressure using a pressure gauge or not?

Model NZR-24. The problem is that it turns off automatically. That is, without errors and for no apparent reason, the unit turns off spontaneously, the display shows OFF. You come up, press the power button, and it continues to work for some time. Then it turns off again. The intervals are always different. Maybe they turn off every hour, or maybe they work normally for a week. It is noticed that it turns off when ignited, that is, it tries to ignite, but something does not work out for it and it turns off. The spark seems normal, gas is flowing. The network is connected via an uninterruptible power supply (but I tried without it - the same thing).

On gas pipe, suitable for the boiler, is there a dielectric coupling? If there is no clutch, then we advise you to install it, but if there is one and the unit works like this, then it is possible that the problem is in the control board and it needs to be replaced.

I have a gas boiler Oasis VM-20. The house is new, everything is connected except gas.

I decided to fill the system. I unscrewed the plug on the pump, opened the heating taps, and turned on the cold water. And I turned off the feed tap, but no water flowed into the battery system. How do I fill my heating system with water?

Most likely the problem is related to an incorrectly installed heating system, or incorrect installation of the boiler. Check the heating system and all connections or call a technician. Please tell me, we want to install a wall-mounted boiler in the apartment and are wavering between Oasis BM-16 and RT-16. The first one has a separate heat exchanger, and the second one has a bithermic one. The rest of their parameters are the same. What's the difference? Which one is better to take? Apartment 2/2 brick house

, 68 sq. m.

The first model BM-16 has a bithermic heat exchanger, and RT-16 has two separate heat exchangers. In boilers with a bithermic heat exchanger, there is no separate secondary heat exchanger responsible only for the DHW circuit, which makes them cheaper, but the heat exchanger of such models is more sensitive to water quality and if the water is hard, with a high salt content or from a well, the bithermic unit clogs faster. In such cases, we recommend using RT models with two separate heat exchangers.

Tell me who knows. I can’t get the ZRT-18 boiler to work with external control, that is, I put a jumper on the terminals, remove it, but it still works according to the internal temperature settings.

Please tell me why the hot water on the Oasis VM-18 boiler is either boiling water or cold? The settings do not help, I also changed the amount of water.

Check the settings in the service menu, the gas pressure leaving the burner should be set to max-12 mbar, min-2 mbar, the heat exchanger could also be clogged.

I have a NZR-13 boiler. I set the heating temperature to 58 degrees. It heats up 3 degrees higher and turns off, then turns on at a temperature of 45 degrees, i.e. it cools down by 13 degrees, and according to the passport it should cool down by 7 degrees. Is this how it should be? And another problem: the pressure in the heating system at 58 degrees. 2.5 bar, and when cooling to 45 degrees it drops to 1 bar. This is fine? If, when it warms up, I set the temperature lower, I have to add water to the system, because when it cools down, the pressure drops below the red line on the pressure gauge and the boiler displays error E9. And if the power is turned off even for 40 minutes, then the pressure drops to almost 0. If, when it gets colder, I increase the temperature, then I have to slightly reduce the pressure in the heating system, because it reaches the upper red line on the pressure gauge. In short, I lowered the temperature - added pressure, added temperature - dropped the pressure. Is this how it should be?

The factory settings are such that the unit heats the coolant to a temperature that is several degrees higher than the set one, turns off the burner and turns on the heating when the difference between the actual and set temperature reaches 15 degrees. In the system settings, you can change the specified difference, making it either 10 or 7 degrees. The “HC” parameter is responsible for this (value 00 - 15C, 01 - 10C and 02 - 7C). The pressure surges you described may be a consequence of insufficient pressure in the expansion tank, which, if there is no pressure in the system, should be 1 atm. It is also possible that the membrane in the expansion tank has burst and needs to be replaced. You can check this by pressing the tank nipple; if water comes out of it, then the membrane has failed.

Wall-mounted gas boiler Oasis nzr 16 cuts off gas burner for a split second when supplying hot water or heating. No errors are displayed and it continues to work. What is the reason?

A short-term burner shutdown is possible for several reasons, for example due to a gas valve. More precisely, it is possible to find out the reason only on the spot. Such operation is not a malfunction and does not affect its efficiency and performance.

The problem is this: the hot water is heated unstably. When opening the tap, the DHW icon on the display (shower) stopped lighting up. And the water is heated only when the gas is ignited. But I can’t understand the logic behind its ignition.

The water can flow hot, then cold again, and then start to warm up again.

The reason for this operation of the boiler is most likely the water flow sensor in the DHW circuit. Its part, which is located inside the cold water inlet pipe into the hot water supply, is an impeller that could become clogged or take an incorrect position, causing it to spin worse and not give the proper signal to the control board through the Hall sensor, which is why unstable unit operation.

It is necessary to clean the flow sensor and, if cleaning does not help, replace it with a new one. I have a zrt 18 boiler, the circulation pump is broken. I didn’t find the same one, but bought and installed Grundfos. The unit began to display error E9, both in summer mode and in winter mode. I don't know how to fix it. In summer mode, you turn on the water, it turns on, but after closing the tap an error pops up. And in winter mode, after warming up, when the pump stops running, it appears, and due to this, the boiler does not turn on the pump and does not want to start until you unplug it from the socket. Error E9 appears either due to

low pressure

in the heating system and it is necessary to bring the pressure to 1 atm using a make-up tap, or due to the failure of the pressure sensor, which will need to be replaced with a new one. If a heat exchanger leaks, it is better to take it to a technician to determine the location of the leak and find out whether this place can be soldered or just needs replacement.

In summer mode, when you turn on the hot water, the heating radiators begin to heat up, the temperature of the hot water in the tap feels much higher than the set one. Tell me, what could be the reason? Most likely the circulation pump does not turn off. It is necessary to set the CL parameter to 00 in the service settings. A gas boiler from Oasis can only operate on

natural gas , conversion to liquefied gas is excluded; accordingly, it can be installed in rooms connected to the central gas main. These devices are double-circuit, designed to heat a room and supply it with hot water for domestic needs. The heating temperature of the liquid ranges from 35-60 degrees,

throughput hot water supply 10 liters per minute., due to which gas consumption is significantly reduced. The operation of the burner is controlled automatically; there are photo sensors on it that monitor the presence of gas. Used for smoke removal coaxial chimney, the air necessary for the combustion process comes from the street.

The design provides two heat exchangers, one for the heating circuit, the second for heating the DHW liquid. Thanks to this, the heating time of the liquid is reduced, and it is also possible to use the boiler in summer period.

Room thermostat with display

It is possible to connect to room thermostat, which is not included in the package, must be purchased separately. For safe operation, there are relief valves that are activated if the coolant temperature exceeds the permissible limits. Also, for safe operation, there are flow sensors that monitor the pressure in the heating circuit; in case of non-compliance with the standards, the operation of the system is blocked.

Basic error codes

Let's try to take a closer look at the error codes of Oasis boilers, and possible reasons their appearance.

e1

Error e1. Indicates an ignition malfunction, possible causes:


e2

Error e2. Lights up if the air pressure switch does not close 8 seconds after turning on the fan.

The reasons may be:


e6

Error e6. Indicates that there is no flame. What to do if a similar problem arises?

The following must be excluded:


e7

Error e7. Low pressure or insufficient amount of liquid in the hot water supply system.

Probable reasons:


e9

Error e9. Indicates that the pump has failed, or that the pressure in the system is unacceptable.

Check the following:

  • Optimal fluid pressure level in the system varies from 0.1 to 0.15 atm.
  • Check if the water pump is working properly, after removing it. If necessary, clean the pump, rinse, check the integrity of the blades.
  • Broken control board. Needs replacement.
  • We still need to pay attention Is the temperature sensor working?.

Other faults

A situation may arise when the boiler stops heating water, that is, water flows from the tap when turned on. cold water. Most likely, the problem lies in a malfunction of the turbine, which does not transmit a signal to the sensor, then the flame does not ignite and, as a result, the liquid does not heat up.


The turbine cannot be repaired and needs to be replaced to similar situation did not happen again with a newly installed turbine, we recommend purchasing and installing a high-quality fluid filter.

Do you have an Oasis gas boiler installed? Then it will be useful for you to familiarize yourself with typical faults this technique. During operation, device components may fail. We will tell you how to recognize the problem and fix it yourself.

How the Oasis boiler works

The devices of this manufacturer are dual-circuit. This means that the water heater can provide not only hot water in the tap, but also heating in the room. The heating temperature is from 35 to 60 degrees, the average productivity is 10 liters per minute.

Oasis equipment runs on natural gas, so it can be installed in houses connected to the mains.

The boiler is equipped with two heat exchangers. One of them is responsible for providing water for heating batteries, the other for hot water supply (DHW). Accordingly, fuel consumption and heating waiting time in the summer are reduced.

Combustion products are removed forcibly. Closed chamber and ensure automatic and safe operation. Flame, gas supply, and flow sensors are installed for monitoring. Also provided safety valve, which is triggered when pressure increases.

It can't do without troubleshooting. The equipment is equipped with a self-diagnosis system. In the event of a malfunction, an error is displayed on the display, the meaning of which is indicated in the instructions.

Basic faults

What to do if an error appears on the display? How to fix the situation? First you need to decipher the meaning of the symbols on the screen, and only after that start looking for a breakdown.

Error codes and solutions

Let's look at what the symbols that the boiler shows mean.

E1- problems with ignition, no ignition. What could be the reason:

  • No fuel supply. Turn the shut-off valve; it may not be fully open. With strong or low pressure in the gas main, you should contact the repair service;
  • Loose, clogged contacts. Check the connections from the control module to the ignition unit. Tighten the wiring. If the contacts are oxidized, clean them and reconnect;
  • Control board faulty. It is better to entrust diagnosis and replacement to a specialist. But you can inspect the part yourself, look for burns and damage.

  • Ignition electrode does not work. This happens if the part has moved and is located far from the burner. Remove the casing, inspect the elements and return the electrode to its place. Additionally, clean it with a wire brush. If the burner does not light after this, install a new electrode.

E2- the fan has been running for 8 seconds, but the pressure switch does not close. What does it mean:

  • No traction. The pipe or chimney is clogged. To check, light a match and hold it to the inspection window. The flame deviated to the side - there is draft, it burns evenly - no. You can hold a sheet of paper to the ventilation hole. With normal traction, it will tighten, and if the passage is clogged, the leaf will fall.

In this case, you need to clean the chimney on your own side, and call utility workers from the street to clean it. Open the combustion chamber. You will see that there are two tubes connected to the manostat (pressure regulator), which also need to be cleaned;

  • The air relay is broken. You can verify that a part is faulty using a tester;
  • The fan does not work. The part is inspected for damage. There are tubes connected to it that may have melted and need to be replaced. Then start the boiler and close the manostat contacts. If the burner lights up, the manostat is broken; if not, the main unit is broken.
  • Electronics problems. Perhaps the wiring contacts have come loose or the insulation has been damaged. All elements are inspected and tightened.

E3 - The DHW input temperature sensor has failed. Diagnose the sensor and wiring. Replace faulty parts.

E4 - The DHW output sensor is broken. Proceed in the same way as in case of E3.

E5 - The heating sensor does not work. Similar actions.

E6- there is no flame. What to do:

  • Restart. To do this, open and close the mixer several times until ignition occurs. Air has probably accumulated inside, which is preventing normal ignition;
  • Pull the contacts to the connectors, make sure the insulation is intact.

E7- low pressure in the line. What could have caused the problem:

  • Too little water. Perhaps one of the connections has started to leak. Apply a dry cloth to the joints to check for leaks. Seal the connection, tighten the nuts tighter and eliminate the leak;
  • The pressure in the distribution tank is incorrect. It is necessary to adjust the settings as indicated in the instructions for the specific model. When heated, the liquid expands, causing the pressure to increase. Because of this, the safety valve is activated and releases excess water.

E8 - the water overheats. What is the reason:

  • Heating valve closed, you need to open it;
  • Overheating DHW systems or heating. Diagnose the operation of the bypass valve, as well as the degree of hot liquid flow.

E9 - The pressure in the system is not normal. The pump is broken, so the burner may not light.

  • Line pressure must be at least 0.1–0.15 Bar;
  • Remove the pump. Clean its parts from blockages, rinse under running water. Inspect the components for damage, especially the blades.

  • Thermal sensor is faulty. Diagnostics and replacement are carried out.

We have examined all the errors characteristic of Oasis gas boilers. In addition, users are faced with a malfunction such as lack of heating: when opening the mixer, there is no hot flow. This indicates a turbine failure. It cannot be repaired; it is better to install a new one.

Before starting work on equipment, turn off the gas and water supplies. If the error code does not disappear from the screen after all the efforts, contact a specialist. Not worth carrying out independent work with a gas main - this is dangerous and can lead to an accident.