A leak-proof floor in a bathhouse is one of the most common options for arranging flooring in a Russian bathhouse. Such a system can be performed on either a wooden or concrete base. She has enough complex design, but its environmental and aesthetic advantages provide wide application. To reduce the cost of construction, all work can be done with your own hands, but with mandatory consideration of all current sanitary standards.
Wooden floor in the bathhouse
One of the main problems of a bathhouse is rotting and destruction of the floor under the influence of moisture accumulating in the material. These processes develop especially strongly in wood, which is still the main material for the construction of bathhouses. To reduce the destructive impact, two main designs of flooring are used that eliminate the accumulation of moisture: pouring and non-leaking varieties.
On a note! The simplest way to remove water from the floor is to let it flow freely into the ground, which is ensured in a pour-over design by forming gaps between the flooring boards.
Concrete or wooden leak-proof floors in a bathhouse have a much more complex design, which ensures the tightness of the coating.
A leak-proof wooden floor in the bathhouse is constructed in the steam room and washing room Thus, a non-leaking floor in a bathhouse with your own hands is a coating that prevents the penetration of water into a wooden or other base, with a system capable of ensuring its drainage along the floor surface into a local sewer or soil that has good water permeability. In this design, waterproofing plays a primary role. A leak-proof wooden floor in a bathhouse is constructed in a steam room and washing room, where water is simply poured onto it. large quantities. In other bath sections there is no point in complicating the floor design.
In addition to the requirement for the tightness of the coating, a number of other requirements are put forward for such a floor. First of all, the value of thermal insulation increases, because The drained water should not cool the bath. Liquid drainage must be ensured by gravity, which necessitates the formation of slopes to the drain holes. Finally, water currents should not cause bare feet to slip, and the flooring should dry quickly to prevent moisture from accumulating on the surface. Naturally, the requirements for sewage and disposal are increasing. The drained water must be drained away from the bathhouse foundation and not accumulate under the floor.
Liquid drainage must be ensured by gravity, which necessitates the formation of slopes to the drain holes How to make a leak-proof floor in a bathhouse? Its typical design includes the formation of a subfloor and a sealed floor covering with holes in the direction of which a slope is formed sufficient for gravity flow of the bottom along the surface. If the soil under the building is sufficiently hydroscopic, groundwater lie deep, the bathhouse is not used excessively, and the environmental situation allows, then the waste liquid is discharged from the underground directly into the ground. But even in this case, a sand and gravel bed should be laid to filter the water.
In case of hard, clay or rocky soil, trays are installed under the floor that receive water and send it for disposal into storage or filter wells. The main condition: in the subfield, i.e. between the floor covering and the ground, water should not stagnate. It is also necessary to prevent the formation of condensation on the lower surface of the floor. For this purpose, reliable ventilation of the underground space is ensured.
When installing floors in different bath rooms, the following unwritten rule is usually followed. The floor in the washing compartment is formed below the floor level (8-9 cm) in the dressing room and rest room, to prevent flowing water from entering these compartments. In the steam room, on the contrary, the floor structure is raised slightly (up to 10 cm) to retain heat.
Do-it-yourself leak-proof wooden floor in a bathhouse is one of classic options bath arrangement. Its typical design looks like this:
Beams for a wooden floor in a bathhouse To construct a wooden floor in a bathhouse, larch, linden, aspen, birch, fir, alder, cedar, and pine can be used. Subfloor and load-bearing elements, as a rule, are made from cheaper wood, for which pine is quite suitable. It is better to provide the finishing coating with larch, linden, and aspen. The best material For a bath floor, larch is considered, but its increased cost should be taken into account. The wood must be thoroughly dried before installation. For joists, it is advisable to use timber no larger than 40-50 mm, because Thicker beams tend to warp.
The preparatory stage of arranging the floor includes removing the fertile layer of soil and compacting the soil. The pillow is formed from a layer of sand and crushed stone 20-25 cm thick and carefully compacted. Waterproofing made of roofing felt is laid on it, and it is laid with an overlap of about 15-20 cm. Preparation of the floor base is completed by installing support posts and backing beams.
A waterproofing membrane and thermal insulation (usually mineral wool) and vapor barrier with a foil layer (foil up) Next, the so-called subfloor is formed. Backing beams are attached to posts metal corner and secured to the foundation using anchors. Then, logs made of timber measuring 40x40 mm are mounted on the beams. When installing them, the required slope towards the drain is immediately provided, and the slope should be about 10 degrees, which ensures a level difference of 2 cm per meter of floor. If it is necessary to strengthen the structure, additional cranial bars are used. Important condition: All wooden parts must be soaked in antiseptic.
Between the lags a waterproofing membrane, thermal insulation (usually mineral wool) and a vapor barrier with a foil layer (foil up) are laid sequentially. Layered and film materials are attached to the joists using a furniture stapler. The joints should be sealed with adhesive tape. Isofix tape is well suited for these purposes. When laying, vapor insulation is applied to the wall at a distance of about 20-22 cm.
If water cannot be discharged into the ground, then trays are installed under the floor The final flooring is made from tongue-and-groove boards 30-40 mm thick and 15-20 cm wide. The boards fit tightly together during installation. They are attached to the joists with self-tapping screws or nails, and their caps must be recessed into the wood. A hole is cut in a section of the word the right size. It is advisable to install a drain on the drain. Between the subfloor and finishing coat It is recommended to leave a gap for ventilation.
On a note! With a large area bath rooms the supporting columns are made in the form of a columnar foundation.
Why dig a hole about 40-45 cm deep, the bottom of which is covered with a cushion of sand and crushed stone. The concrete pillar is poured into the formwork, in which the reinforcement is mounted. This support rises 4-5 cm above the surface.
If water cannot be discharged into the ground, then trays are installed under the floor. Water must enter them through the drain hole and be discharged beyond the perimeter of the bathhouse into special collection containers. In this case, it is advisable to make a hydraulic lock from a layer of clay on the ground surface.
To increase the durability of the bathhouse, a concrete floor is often erected. When constructing such a floor, it is necessary to immediately plan and install a drainage system in its final form. For this purpose, a water collector is usually formed in the form of a drain pipe with a diameter of 20-25 cm, which goes into the drainage ditch. The pit plays the role of a water collector. So for a small steam room with an area of 4-4.5 sq.m. you need a water collector measuring 40x40x30 cm. The pit is lined with concrete 4-5 cm thick.
The concrete floor in the bathhouse itself is made in this order. The soil surface is leveled and compacted. A layer is poured on top broken bricks(about 10-13 cm) and crushed stone (8-10 cm) with careful compaction. After this, a bottom layer of concrete 5-6 cm thick is poured. After it dries, waterproofing from roofing felt, thermal insulation from expanded clay (9-12 cm) and reinforcing metal grid. Finally concrete screed it is filled with a layer of concrete of about 7-10 cm to form the necessary slope and holes for drainage.
Concrete floor in the bathhouse
On a note! In preparation concrete mixture Additives are introduced into it to increase the water resistance of the material. One of the effective additives is perlite.
In addition to the concrete floor modern baths Other designs are also used. The metal non-leaking floor in the bathhouse is highly reliable. In this case, stainless steel sheets or sheets of non-ferrous metals are used. The main advantage is ideal waterproofing. Flaw - high price. Ceramic tile floors are widely used in the washing area.
The leak-proof floor in the bathhouse receives well-deserved attention. Its design is much more complex than that of pouring systems, but its reliability is significantly higher, which increases the service life of the entire structure. In addition, this system is simply necessary when increased environmental requirements are imposed on wastewater.
Features of the design of pouring floors depending on the location of the bathhouse, connection to the ground, video about organizing water drainage with a water seal system, arrangement of the underground, installation of the stove.
At first glance, it seems that even a schoolchild can cope with installing a pouring floor in a bathhouse. Perhaps, if he turns out to be an intelligent student studying in high school and physically strong enough, then he will be able to master that volume construction work necessary during the construction of a building, work with soil and laying leaking flooring.
Construction of a pouring floor
Floors with a leaking floor structure are considered traditional in the design of a Russian bath. The floorboards are made from hardwood. When laid on joists, gaps are left between them, through which water flows freely into the underground. A pit is specially dug and equipped in the underground for Wastewater, and with the help of additional ditches it is diverted from under the foundation of the bathhouse into a pit, from which they enter the sewer system.
When the soil is composed of sandy and sandy loam soils, the construction of a pit is impractical, since streams of water, breaking against crushed stone and reaching the bottom of the pit, are absorbed by sand and independently discharged into natural drainage.
If the soil is composed of clayey and loamy soils, a drainage system is necessary. For this purpose, a water intake structure is installed inside the pit. A collection facility is installed underground to receive waste water. This could be a hole with concrete walls and a base, or lined with bricks and coated with a layer of clay. Before pouring crushed stone, a drain pipe is installed into it, through which the water will be drained into a pit located outside the walls of the bathhouse. And from there the waste water is drained into sewer network or wastewater disposal system.
Drainage system
The installation of a drainage system requires a lot of physical effort. At the very beginning of the work, the entire soil cover under the entire base of the steam and washing compartments is removed. In this place, a hole is dug, at least 400 mm deep, and compacted tightly. A 10-centimeter layer of sand is poured into it, which is also compacted, and the hole is filled with crushed stone. Then, in a designated and convenient place for the owner, a pit is built.
Briefly about the basics
Concrete screed. It is poured in such a way as to have a slight slope towards the water intake structure. During construction large sauna joists should be laid. They are installed on support posts, which can be made of brick. The pillars are strengthened concrete mortar using reinforcing mesh and are covered with high-quality insulation. The supports can also be treated on all sides with a special bitumen-based mastic.
Installation of lag. Beams measuring 150x150 mm are used as logs. The step between their laying is 0.5 m. Before laying the beams, they must be treated twice with special impregnations and an antiseptic. When laying joists on support posts, it is necessary to lay a double layer of waterproofing at the point of contact.
Laying floorboards. The floorboards are laid in such a way that there is a gap between them - a gap of at least 5 mm wide. This distance will ensure the free flow of water used in the bath. Wood can take on water in a damp room and swell. The gaps between the floorboards at a distance of 5-7 mm will not close and will not cause sewage congestion.
In order to build the correct floor of a leaking structure in a bathhouse, two basic rules must be observed:
The entire structure of the floor and the associated underground must be provided with a ventilation system.
Timely removal of damp air from under the bathhouse underground will prevent the boardwalk from undergoing premature rotting processes, which will significantly extend its service life.
Installation of a pouring floor in a bathhouse begins only after the installation of drainage or drainage system underground and a furnace erected.
It is best to install the stove so that its vent is below floor level. With this arrangement of the furnace, the underground will always be provided with an influx of fresh air masses, therefore, damp air will not linger there.
There are positive aspects to laying poured floors. Floorboards made of wood have a certain amount of attractiveness because they are warm and environmentally friendly.
TO negative side can be attributed to the fact that they are quite fast compared to concrete base, become unusable and require complete, or partial replacement. This happens especially often in poorly ventilated underground areas, or in the complete absence ventilation system.
Ivanovo Repair Construction Construction Finishing Projects Design
Installation of a pouring floor. Advice from experienced bath attendants.Thank you. Absolutely, right. This is what I was counting on, that my experience would combine with the experience of others and together create a strong visual aid.
So let's write down other advantages.Now it’s logical to tell you what was done ten years ago, how it worked and what problems came out. Then tell what was done to eliminate the latter.
Organization of the floor (as it was).
1. The floorboards lie flat against each other without gaps
2. At the end of the slope there is a gap along the entire length of the floorboard for water drainage. Closable slot. in cold weather.1. The floor was made in a frame bathhouse with water discharged outside the bathhouse. The bathhouse stands on poles and has an underground space under all the rooms.
2. First, a V-shaped subfloor was made with a slope towards external wall baths made of boards 20. The boards were not impregnated with anything.
3. The subfloor was covered with roofing felt with the organization of water discharge into a plastic pipe and then into dug drainage grooves along the edge of the site. There are no drainage pits or septic tanks. At the same time, the roofing material was raised along the walls by 30 cm and then covered with clapboard. Those. got a recessed waterproofed bathtub under the main floor.
4. The floorboards were made of edged pine slabs from 10 to 15 cm thick, 20-25 cm wide. They were impregnated several times with Pinotex antiseptic. The floorboards lay and rested on beams covered with roofing felt of the subfloor, located along the perimeter of the soap room. It was possible to lift several floorboards to dry the underground space.Causes of rotting or what the autopsy showed.
1. The floorboards began to be lifted for ventilation five years after the start of operation, when an understanding of the process began! They became putrefactive throughout their entire thickness, starting from the edges (at the points of support).
2. Raising and lowering heavy floorboards led to a break in the roofing material and water getting onto the subfloor boards. Some of the water began to get under the bathhouse. This made the problem worse.
3. The central beam of the V-shaped floor, due to settlement of the bathhouse and swelling of the soil, began to touch the ground with its lower end and began to rot.
Conclusion: in general, the board under the subfloor, where it was dry, was perfectly preserved, even remaining white after almost 10 years of use. This means that a dry board located under roofing felt is not susceptible to rotting.
Making a decision to reconstruct the floor, taking into account the shortcomings of 10 years of operation.
1. It was decided to leave the design of the subfloor as before: V-shaped under roofing felt with a drain into the pipe. Just raise the roofing material higher up the wall under the lining and make it in two layers of coating with reinforcement in the places where the floorboards touch. Reinforcement should be made with a 40X40 aluminum angle.
2. Replace wooden floorboards with plastic window sills with stiffeners. To avoid deflection, lay a galvanized thrust pipe in the center to distribute the load.
We purchased: 4 2-meter window sills 50 cm wide and one 2-meter 30 cm wide. Total 2.3 linear meters and 15 cm for drainage.
2,300 rubles were paid for everything.
Spilled floors are a good tradition of a real Russian bathhouse. They are easy to do, inexpensive and, with proper care quite adequately replace a waterproofed base. And walking on the boards is much more pleasant than walking on cold tiles. Therefore, even at the stage of constructing the frame of my bathhouse, I decided that I needed just such floors, pourable ones. It turned out that making them is very simple. Judge for yourself.
The poured floors are wooden, they are made from boards that are not closely fitted to each other, but at a distance of several millimeters. The floor ends up with visible cracks. This is its main meaning: the water used for washing does not stagnate on the boards, but immediately spills through the cracks into the underground space. From here, the water is redirected through the drain hole through the pipe outside the bathhouse. Some bathhouse owners don’t bother and leave this water to soak into the ground. In my opinion, this is a very bad idea.
Yes, it’s simple: you don’t need to waterproof the underground space, do drainage, or take care of the sewage system. But all this simplicity will negatively affect your health and the health of your family. All used water will not be absorbed into the soil and soap flakes with remnants of dirt, bath leaves, and branches will settle on its surface. Let's get a real breeding ground for fungi. And fungi, as you know, secrete huge amounts of harmful substances, causing allergies, pulmonary and many other diseases. So I don’t advise anyone to make a blatant “sewer” under the bathhouse! All used water must be diverted away.
An approximate diagram of pouring floors that you can use as a guide
This is the most important thing in poured floors, take my word for it. It is imperative to ensure a quick outflow of used water into the sewer system so that the subfloor dries quickly, if possible. Otherwise you will get rot, mold, fungi and other “delights” that have no place in the bathhouse. I did this: I removed the inside of the log house fertile layer, poured clay there, and then a gravel-sand cushion, spilled water, and trampled it down. At the same time, the surface sloped towards the wall with a drain below. Then it was time for waterproofing. I used roofing felt - I laid it in one layer on the surface of the subfloor, and I tarred the seams with hot bitumen. In theory, the subfloor has already been waterproofed. The water will go down the drain without being absorbed into the soil, but the surface of the subfloor will remain wet. And this, again, will lead to dampness and fungal growth.
The subfloor must dry completely, and this requires ventilation, that is, a constant influx fresh air to the space under the bathhouse. I have a log house standing on strip foundation, so I initially provided for the presence of holes in it - vents. Through them, air penetrates perfectly into the “basement”. The vents should almost always be kept open, closed only when heating and steaming in the bathhouse. Otherwise the whole hot air will go safely outside.
The height of the underground space, from the ground (covered with roofing felt) to wooden planks pouring floor, ideally should be 200-300 mm. Thus, the logs of the wooden floor should not lie directly on the roofing material, but should be raised. This is done by laying them on posts. I installed columns with a height of 270 - 300 mm from brick, placing them in increments of 80 - 100 cm. After this, the bricks were completely plastered with ordinary cement mortar.
I covered all surfaces of the underground space (columns, surface of the subfloor) with hot bitumen. The result is a smooth surface to which leaves, soap flakes and other bath waste do not cling. The purpose of this action was to provide additional waterproofing and ensure the rapid flushing of all kinds of bath waste into the sewer system, so that nothing remained under the floor.
As a lag I used metal channels, covered them with bitumen - it seems to me that they will not be demolished. In general, beams made of hard wood, for example, larch, are traditionally used for lags. They must also be covered with bitumen, otherwise they will rot after a couple of weeks of use.
For the boardwalk, I used 40 mm thick larch boards. They were previously planed on both sides so that drops of water would not stagnate on the fibers.
I laid the boards on the joists with the convex side up (they were slightly warped when drying) with gaps of 5-6 mm. Several floorboards above the drain and near the opposite wall are removable. This solution allows me to lift the boards after washing and clear the subfloor and drain of debris. Additionally, dry the space under the floor so that the floor can last longer.
The boards closest to the wall are removable; they can be placed on edge while drying and cleaning the subfloor.
Finally, I would like to emphasize that if you need a durable floor, then the option with pouring floors won't suit you. Despite all the tricks, ideal ventilation, rules for creating a floor, the wood above the water intake will still rot. Our task is to ensure that this process begins as late as possible. If you encounter the disadvantages of poured flooring in a year or two, you will immediately feel the advantages. They are:
Sazonov Dmitry
A hot bathhouse with a good steam room, a waiting room, and a swimming pool—isn’t this the dream of every real man? Building a bathhouse to your liking is not so difficult, if you have the desire.
Before you start construction, keep in mind that mistakes in the work will lead to sad consequences - poor quality of the steam room, which means ruined rest and the need to redo the installation. This is especially true for floors in the bathhouse.
The quality of bath floors is of great importance. Due to a seemingly insignificant mistake by the master, all the work may be in vain, and the steam room or dressing room will not be warm enough.
Floors in a bathhouse are usually distinguished by the type of materials. There are wooden and concrete. Both options have their advantages. Wooden floors, in turn, are divided into leaky and non-leaky.
It's up to you to decide how to make the floor in the bathhouse. Wooden flooring is famous for its environmental friendliness and affordability. Leaking floors are the most common construction, popular in villages for construction.
Water through such a floor flows freely through the cracks between the boards and is discharged into drain hole under the bathhouse. Of course, installing concrete floors in a bathhouse is much more difficult to implement, and a non-spillable floor will also require some tinkering.
The non-shedding floor consists of wooden boards that fit very tightly together. This floor is ideal for both a steam room and a dressing room.
But if your plans include a bathhouse in one of the premises, it is better to give preference concrete floor. It will last a long time and is much more resistant to stress; in addition, for hygiene purposes, it can be covered with tiles and holes made for water drainage.
Bathhouse made of timber or frame bath do-it-yourself does not require any special refinements when laying floors. Of course, if you are building a stone bathhouse with several rooms, you practically cannot do without a concrete floor.
If your bathhouse is not like that large sizes, you can get by with a poured wood floor. Don't be alarmed, this type of flooring has many advantages that are not available to other bath floors.
A wooden floor, although not as durable as a concrete one, is definitely useful. Choosing for flooring conifer tree, for example, pine, you guarantee yourself not only reliable design, but also the air in the steam room partially purified by pine vapors.
Usually not used very often. However, drying floors between steaming sessions can be quite difficult. This is especially true for non-spillable floors. It does not allow enough air to pass through, which means it is not ventilated. Hence the early mold, bad smell and floor rot. In contrast, a poured floor will last longer, because it is ventilated by air from all sides, preventing the accumulation of water on its surface.
Finally, any healthy man can make poured floors in a bathhouse with his own hands, without resorting to the services of craftsmen.
When installing a flood floor with your own hands, the main thing is to make the right pit, or drainage tray, where the flowing water falls.
The floor must be laid on lower crown, if your bathhouse is made of logs or timber, or on a foundation. First, logs made of strong timber are installed, and boards are laid on them.
There should be small distances between floor boards. You shouldn't push them to the maximum. For the water to drain away, you only need a few millimeters between adjacent boards.
It is important to think about one more point. There should be clear space underneath your floor, meaning the boards should not rest on or be too close to the ground or other mound.
Otherwise, floor ventilation will be poor, which means your floor will not last long.
Prepare in advance the drainage pipe that leads to the drain or cesspool, in depending on the organization in your area. By the way, used water and a sauna pool can also be disposed of there.
Wet clay is laid on top of the gravel, and the walls of the pit are coated with it.
But it’s better if you make the inside of the drain out of concrete. This way you will extend the service life of your bathhouse by literally decades.
Surfaces that are slightly sloping towards the drainage tray are poured with concrete. The slopes are necessary so that the water quickly drains into the pit without remaining under the floor.
From the drainage tray, water enters the pipe and is sent to the well, and as a result you receive quality sauna and a steam room.
Hoods are often used to make air circulation under the floor even more efficient. They are pipes rising from the floor, extending beyond the bathhouse through the wall. With such a pipe, you are definitely not in danger of rotting the fresh floor.
Having built the subfloor, you can begin laying floors in the bathhouse. The boards, well processed with a plane, are laid and nailed to the joists. If during a test flush you hear that water flows freely into the pipe, you have done everything correctly.
Don't forget that the durability of your bath floor will provide competent care for him.
Don't forget to ventilate the steam room after use and don't leave it until the next day.
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