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» Wisteria: planting and care, growing from seeds. Fairy tale in the garden – wisteria flowers Wisteria flower

Wisteria: planting and care, growing from seeds. Fairy tale in the garden – wisteria flowers Wisteria flower

It is impossible to take your eyes off the blooming wisteria. It fills the space with fireworks of various colors and shades - from light blue and soft pink, to intense purple and creamy white, in which the inflorescences are painted in the form of long spectacular brushes, hanging down in an abundant waterfall. When wisteria blooms, a walk among this heavenly whirlpool of colors is reminiscent of a magical dream, where there is no place, no sadness, no sadness. It’s not for nothing that they say that being surrounded by her makes you feel like you’re in real paradise.

Description

Genus Wisteria (Wisteria) - in Latin, Wisteria belongs to the legume family. It is represented by subtropical tree-like plants - tall climbing vines.

Translated from Greek, the name of this plant means the epithet “sweet”. It really fills the surrounding atmosphere with a pleasant sweet aroma throughout the entire flowering stage. This is one of the most beautiful flowering representatives of the flora.

The name Wisteria is official. It is established by the International Code of Botanical Nomenclature. Comes from the surname of Professor Caspar Wistar, who studied anatomy at the University of Pennsylvania at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries.

Wisteria is a deciduous tree. Its height can reach twenty meters. As the tree grows, a majestic crown with a diameter of up to eight meters is formed from drooping long ones.

A mature wisteria tree has different shapes. It could be a tree with a powerful trunk or a weaving vine that gradually takes over the surrounding space of your garden.

The odd-pinnate light green leaves of wisteria are large in size, reaching a length of 30 cm. The fluff covering the leaf blades of young plants gradually disappears, making their color more saturated.

Blue, purple, white, pink, lilac wisteria flowers are united in racemose inflorescences resembling grape bunches, the length of which varies on average from 25 to 50 cm. Although, there are varieties of wisteria with inflorescences up to 70 cm long.

Wisteria's natural habitat is China, where it grows in the Sichuan and Hubei provinces. This tree is widely cultivated, but is most decorative in humid subtropical conditions. In our latitudes, it takes root well in Crimea and the southern territories of Russia.

With proper organization of planting and care, the subtropical beauty can be successfully cultivated in central Russia if frost-resistant varieties are selected. Varieties with purple and white flowers have been bred for gardening. For indoor floriculture, wisteria is grown in the form of a bonsai.

Starting to bloom in the first spring months, the wisteria tree captivates with a cloud of colorful flowers almost until the beginning of autumn, after which the ripening beans are used as seed.

Popular varieties of wisteria in Russia (photo)

Of the nine species of wisteria, four varieties have been adapted to our temperate climate, with varying degrees of frost resistance.

Chinese wisteria (Wisteria chinensis)

Wisteria comes from China, reaches twenty meters in height, and has a dense crown. Double flowers have a predominantly delicate lilac color, but sometimes a white tint is also found.

This magical tree blooms throughout the summer season. Inflorescences appear in parallel with the waking leaves. In warm climates it can bloom again in late summer.

The plant is given additional decorativeness by its feathery leaves, which create an openwork halo around purple inflorescences up to 40 cm long. If proper pruning is carried out during the growth of the vine, a tree-like form is formed.

During the winter season, Chinese wisteria is able to withstand short-term temperature drops to 20 degrees below zero.

Wisteria macrostachys

The natural habitat of this variety of wisteria is North America. The frost-resistant Blue Moon variety is especially valued. The name translates as “blue moon”. This type of vine is more adapted to frosty winters, as it can survive even at -40C.

The maximum height is eight meters. The leaves are dark green in color. The flowers are predominantly blue or purple. The length of the inflorescences varies from 20 to 30 cm. They appear in June and are fragrant with a delicate aroma for three weeks.

Full-flowering wisteria (Wisteria floribunda)

This luxurious type of wisteria grows in Japan. With an average height of 10 meters, it impresses with the size of its leaf blades, which are up to 0.4 meters long, and its inflorescences, up to 0.7 meters long.

It blooms in late spring, when the leaves have already appeared. Reddish, violet-blue, white, lilac flowers open gradually, starting from the bottom of the raceme.

Flowering ends by mid-June. Under favorable climatic conditions, it may please you with the reappearance of inflorescences by August.

Wisteria is successfully cultivated even in those Russian regions where winter temperatures do not drop below - 25C.

Bush wisteria (Wisteria frutescens)

This type of wisteria with drooping branches can grow up to 12 meters. The petals are colored violet-blue. Can be used as a tub culture.

Wisteria - cultivation and propagation

There are many ways to independently grow wisteria in your summer cottage. The most practical and effective methods of which are:

  1. Seminal
  2. Vegetative

Seed propagation

Seed propagation of wisteria is used quite rarely, since the young seedling practically does not acquire the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

Seed material is purchased in specialized salons or collected independently if there are mature plants on the site.

Soil preparation

At the beginning of winter, prepare the soil substrate by mixing turf soil, leaf humus and fine sand in equal volumes. You can purchase a ready-made mixture designed for exotic flora. The resulting soil is poured into containers.

Sowing activities are carried out in several stages:

  1. The seeds are first filled with a solution of a growth stimulant, diluted according to the instructions, and kept there for about three hours.
    Lay out on a moistened soil surface.
  2. A thin layer of sand is distributed on top, which should slightly cover the seeds. Then cover with a transparent film and place the miniature greenhouse in a warm place without lighting with a temperature of at least twenty degrees.
  3. Next, carry out daily ventilation and, if necessary, spray the soil with water, preventing it from drying out. The shelter is removed on average after a month, when active seed pecking begins.
  4. After two weeks, move the container to the windowsill, providing protection from the hot midday sun. At this point, the sprouts are regularly irrigated with a spray bottle, but I avoid heavy waterlogging, which can cause rot in the young stems.
  5. When the third leaf develops, the shoots are ready to be transplanted into local containers, in which a drainage layer is placed at the bottom and soil substrate is added. In the container, water the soil and carefully remove the seedlings, keeping the lump of earth. Immediately planted in prepared containers, after which the transplanted plants are watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

When warm spring weather sets in, the crops begin to harden by taking the pots out onto the veranda or balcony, where they should remain for two hours.

Vegetative methods of propagation

The vegetative method of growing wisteria has also proven itself well. For plant propagation the following is most often used:

  • Cuttings
  • Reproduction by layering
  • Root grafting
Cuttings

The simplest, but no less effective way to grow wisteria is the cutting method. It is performed as follows:

  1. In the fall, choose a healthy, strong branch and cut cuttings 15 to 20 cm long. For storage, they are placed in a cellar, sprinkled with moist soil.
  2. In the spring, to root the growth, the cuttings are planted in a greenhouse under film, having previously kept them in a stimulator.
  3. In warm weather, cuttings can be placed directly in open ground. To do this, dig up a selected area with light, fertile soil well, and remove weed roots from it. Next, the surface is leveled with a rake and the prepared cuttings are buried several centimeters into it. Each specimen is covered with glass jars on top. Can be used for this purpose with cut necks.

Important! The average survival rate of wisteria with this method is less than 50%.

Reproduction by layering

This method is the most reliable and allows you to obtain strong, viable planting material.

  1. In early spring, before the leaves appear on an adult vine, a healthy shoot located close to the soil surface is selected. Using a sharp knife, make an oblique cut on the underside of the branch (approximately in the middle). It is recommended to spray the layering with a stimulant, for example, indolylacetic acid, which increases the likelihood of rooting.
  2. A long container is filled with a mixture of loamy soil and turf soil. The layering is laid by placing the cut on the surface of the substrate. Another layer of soil mixture is poured on top so that only the top remains free. Secure the branch by inserting wire staples on top.
  3. During the spring season, as the substrate dries out, it is watered abundantly, while an adult plant does not like waterlogged soil much. Usually, a strong root system appears in the cuttings by the beginning of autumn, but they are separated from the mother tree and planted in a designated place only in the spring.

Important! Layers can be rooted without the use of containers, strengthening them directly in the ground. Both methods are quite effective and usually give positive results.

Wisteria root grafting

If, after sowing the seeds, it was possible to obtain viable seedlings that have taken root well in open ground, but have lost their varietal characteristics, root grafting can be carried out.

How to root graft Wisteria:

  1. Young plants are dug up in the autumn after all the leaves have fallen. The root system is separated and placed in a box, sprinkled with sand. The box is placed in the basement, where it should remain until mid-winter.
  2. In January, the box is moved to a warm room, giving it the opportunity to warm up for another two weeks.
  3. The scion is played by cuttings taken from varietal wisteria with two buds. The cut should be 30 mm below the bud. A root with a diameter identical to the scion is selected and a cut is also made at its top with a sharp knife. The rootstock and scion are tightly combined and secured with adhesive tape.
  4. All that remains is to bury the roots in the soil substrate, previously poured into the container. The grafting site should remain above the surface.
  5. The top of the container is covered with a transparent film to ensure the necessary humidity. A miniature greenhouse must be ventilated daily. The substrate is moistened as needed. Evidence of good survival of the grafted cuttings will be the development of shoots from the axillary buds after about a month.

As soon as the shoots sprout, the shelter is removed. The grafted seedling continues to be cared for for about three more weeks. The strengthened wisteria is transplanted to a designated place in open ground.

Rules for planting wisteria in the ground

Having grown seedlings yourself or prepared rooted cuttings, you need to transplant them to the site. Planting material enriched with nutrients can be purchased at specialized nurseries.

Important! For planting wisteria, an open place is chosen to ensure sufficient illumination. At the same time, it is necessary to provide protection from strong winds. Wisteria feels good next to, on the frame of which branches can be distributed to create a magnificent composition.

The soil for planting wisteria requires loose, light and slightly alkaline soil. If the soil in the yard is acidic, you need to add lime or crushed chalk. When digging, rotted compost is added.

It is advisable to select a place without close aquifers, since in conditions of stagnant water, wisteria will grow poorly and may die.

When is the best time to plant wisteria?

Planting is carried out in the spring season, when night frosts stop. In the dug up area, planting holes are prepared, the main guideline for which is the size of the root system along with the earthen ball.

Important! The dimensions of the hole should be twice the size of the seedling root. Gravel is poured into the bottom as drainage; if there is none, you can put broken bricks or small cobblestones. A little soil is poured on top.

The soil in the pot with the seedling is moistened and the plant is carefully removed without shaking off the soil from the roots. The seedling is carefully placed in the hole and the voids are filled with soil mixed with a teaspoon of complex mineral fertilizer. Each layer of earth is carefully compacted with a wooden block.

How to care for wisteria

Caring for wisteria involves performing standard agrotechnical practices, taking into account some features.

Watering is carried out taking into account weather conditions. If the spring-summer season is dry, then the procedure is carried out regularly, shedding the soil generously. It is necessary to ensure that moisture is completely absorbed into the soil without stagnation.

Important! Avoid excessive drying of the soil surface, which should be slightly moistened before the next watering. Starting in October, the vine prepares for a dormant period, so the interval between watering lengthens.

Relaxing under the beautiful and majestic branches of wisteria is a pleasure

The soil under the plant should be loosened and weeds removed. To retain moisture, lay a layer of sawdust or peat mulch. During the growing season, wisteria is fed once a week with a mineral complex, dissolving 10 grams of fertilizer in ten liters. This volume is calculated for one square meter. Can be alternated with adding organic matter.

Pruning is carried out to stimulate the development of inflorescences; at the end of May, cut off last year's lateral shoots to a length of approximately 30 cm. In August, fresh growth is still cut into four buds. When spring comes, last year’s growth is cut back into three buds.

In late autumn, wisteria is prepared for wintering. To do this, loosen the tree trunk circle and hill the plant high. Mulch is placed on top. The shoots are removed from the supports. They carefully wrap the trunk and cover it with leaves. A covering non-woven material is placed on top.

Pests rarely appear on wisteria, but sometimes damage to leaves by caterpillars, mites and even mites can occur. Treatment is carried out with biological preparations or insecticidal preparations, which are diluted in accordance with the instructions.

Wisteria, which can often be found in Ukraine and Crimea, is not yet very common in Russia. And in vain - caring for it is not so difficult; you can grow wisteria at home, in pots and tubs. But it is difficult to imagine anything more beautiful than this plant. When wisteria is in bloom in the spring, you get the complete impression that it came from the Garden of Eden. Caring for and growing wisteria is a fascinating activity.

Flower growers are interested in those types of wisteria that can successfully grow within Russia. First of all, this:

Chinese wisteria

From the name it is clear that its homeland is China. Under favorable conditions, a tree-like plant can reach a height of 20 m. However, in Russia it grows better in the southern regions, and, of course, in indoor conditions.

The size of large leaves reaches up to 30 cm, and flower clusters - up to 40 cm. When such wisteria blooms, the spectacle is simply fantastic. Moreover, flowering can last all summer, and even extend into September.

Chinese wisteria - a liana - loves bright light, but will not die in the shade. As for the soil, it should be moist and fertile.

Regarding growing at home - such a large vine will naturally need regular pruning.

In outdoor conditions, wisteria can withstand temperatures down to -20°C, but such frosts should not be prolonged, otherwise the plant will die.

Frost-resistant (Blue Moon)

This wisteria comes from the other side - it grows naturally in North America. Its name translated into Russian sounds beautiful - “Blue Moon”. And it is much more suitable for growing in open ground in Russia.

Blue moon wisteria can grow up to 8 m. It has dark green leaves, and the flowers are bluish or with a purple tint. Wisteria blooms in June, and its flowering lasts up to 3 weeks.

It will successfully survive the Russian winter, as it can withstand frosts down to -40°C.

The plant prefers to grow on the south side of the site, where there is always enough sun, it loves black soil, and, unlike Chinese wisteria, does not require abundant watering.

Abundantly flowering or multi-flowered

And this luxurious wisteria comes from Japan. And although the size of the vine is not amazing - up to 10 m, the leaves and flowers of this wisteria are impressive. Leaves are up to 40 cm, and inflorescences are up to 70 cm.

It can bloom as early as the end of May and, unlike other wisterias, the flowers will bloom gradually. The colors are different - white, reddish, purple.

It can grow in Russia, but can only tolerate cold down to -25°C. Likes fertile, well-drained soil.

Planting wisteria at home

Planting wisteria at home is not that difficult. It is only important to follow certain rules.

Soil requirements

Wisteria prefers black soil or loamy soils. It is especially important for her that there was no stagnation of water on the site. In some cases, in order to grow this spectacular plant, the planting site is specially filled with fertile soil and drainage is provided.

Choosing a location

Wisteria should receive bright sunlight for at least 6 hours a day. So the landing site must be chosen taking this condition into account. Considering that blooming wisteria will “flow” like a waterfall along the wall of the house, the plant is usually planted on the south or southeast side of the building.

But at the same time, it is necessary that the wind does not interfere with the growth of wisteria, and that the plant has sufficiently reliable support.

How and when to plant?

If most plants are traditionally planted in spring or autumn, then the time of planting wisteria depends on how you intend to propagate it.

Seeds are planted in December in a greenhouse.

Cuttings take root better in the spring. They can be planted either in a greenhouse or in open ground, if the soil is fertile enough and it’s already warm outside.

Caring for wisteria at home

Caring for wisteria comes down to providing the plant with proper lighting, watering, and regular fertilization.

Temperature and lighting

Wisteria planted in the garden easily adapts to Russian temperatures, excluding areas with very cold winters. You need to choose a place that is well lit, where the vines are not threatened by drafts and strong winds.

For further successful growth, shoots must be tied up, and the plant itself must be provided with strong support.

Watering and fertilizing

The main requirement for watering is that it should be regular, but not excessive. That is, it is important that the soil at the roots of wisteria is always moist, but the plant cannot tolerate stagnant water.

As for feeding, in order for wisteria to reach its maximum size, have bright foliage and bloom profusely, it must be applied throughout the warm season.

You can use compost, rotted manure, and complex fertilizers.

In spring, wisteria is fed once every 7-10 days, alternating organic and mineral fertilizers.

The liana is responsive to the addition of superphosphate, vermicompost, and peat. It is recommended to water the wisteria with chalk water from time to time.

Trimming

This is a very important point in caring for wisteria. The number of flowers that appear on the vine will depend on how correctly the pruning is done. Wisteria is pruned 2 times a year according to a certain pattern.

During planting, the main shoot of the plant is cut off with pruning shears, leaving up to 90 cm and a strong bud. Side shoots are removed.

In the summer of the 1st year, the top shoot of the plant is tied vertically, and the side shoots are tied at an angle of 45 degrees.

In the winter of the 2nd year, the main stem is cut at a height of 80 cm, the side shoots are shortened by a third.

In the summer of the 2nd year, the main stem is tied to the support again vertically, and the side stems are tied at an angle of 45 degrees.

The main stems of the side branches are tied up, other branches are shortened, and the shoots are removed.

Starting from the 3rd year, similar actions are performed.

Winter care rules

In order for wisteria to survive the winter safely, it needs to be prepared for the cold season.

Trim dry shoots and remove dried flower brushes. The liana is untied and its branches are laid around the trunk. Afterwards it is covered for the winter. You can use special agrofibre, burlap or thick kraft paper. They try to insulate young plants additionally - they sprinkle them with mulch, pine needles, leaves, even earth. It is not advisable to use cellophane film to prevent the shoots from rotting.

Plant propagation

Wisteria can be propagated in several ways. If there is no nursery nearby, the easiest option is to plant seeds.

They are planted in November-December, in light and nutritious soil. The composition of the soil should include leaf soil, turf, and sand - approximately 1/6 of the total volume. It must be remembered that construction sand cannot be used for this purpose, only river sand.

Please note - the seeds are placed on the surface and then sprinkled with a thin layer of sand. The soil must be sufficiently moist. The top of the box is covered with film.

It is advisable to keep the container or box in a dark place at room temperature and water the soil from time to time.

Shoots appear after a month, but the plants are kept in the dark for another 2 weeks, and only then transferred to a lighted room.

With the appearance of the first leaves, each young wisteria is planted in its own pot. Gradually, the plants are hardened - by regularly ventilating the room or by moving the wisteria to the loggia or terrace.

Wisteria can also be propagated by layering. In the spring, the young stem is cut and placed in a box with soil, dug in, only the top of the stem should be at the top. After a year, the young plant is transplanted to another place.

Another option is propagation by cuttings.

In autumn, a strong vine with buds is cut into cuttings. Until spring they are stored in the cellar, in damp soil. In spring, cuttings can be immediately planted in the ground, covered with jars or plastic bottles.

Diseases and pests

Since wisteria is poisonous, pests rarely attack it. And yet it happens. Beautiful green foliage can be ruined by caterpillars. If the number is small, they are collected manually, but if there are quite a lot of caterpillars, the wisteria is sprayed with biological preparations. Insecticides will help against aphids, and acaricides will save against ticks.

In general, wisteria is a healthy plant; diseases avoid it.

Features of growing wisteria

Russia is so large that in its different regions, growing wisteria has its own characteristics.

In outskirts of Moscow

Everything is relatively simple here. You need to choose a sunny place, and when planting the plant, provide drainage to the roots. The depth of the holes should be 25-30 cm. The plant is covered for the winter.

In the Urals

The Ural climate is colder. The general rules for caring for wisteria remain the same. The plant is provided with slightly alkaline soil, regularly fertilized, and protected from drafts. For the winter, a layer of peat chips is poured over the root system.

In Siberia

It must be taken into account that tender wisteria may not tolerate severe and prolonged frosts. The only thing worth growing in open ground here is “Blue Moon”. A good option would be to plant wisteria in a large tub.

With the onset of warm weather, the plant can be moved from the room to the street.

In the middle lane

In the middle zone, wisteria is cared for in the same way as in the Moscow region. It should be remembered that in some areas there are severe and prolonged frosts - taking this into account, the shelter must be of high quality.

In addition, you need to pay attention to the composition of the soil. The sand mixture is enriched with fertilizers, the clay mixture is “lightened” by adding humus, sawdust, and crushed bark.

If you follow all the rules of cultivation, wisteria will delight you with its luxurious flowering every year.

Anyone who sees blooming wisteria for the first time cannot believe for a long time that this is a living plant. Long floral brushes look so impressive that the first thing that comes to mind is a designer with a wild imagination, and not Mother Nature. Wisteria, often called wisteria, is one of the most beautiful flowering vines. From a distance, its clusters resemble a foamy waterfall; it blooms so generously that branches and leaves are often not visible behind the purple, blue or white clusters. Wisteria is magnificent; growing and caring for it will be the topic of our article.

Wisteria (Wisteria) is a small genus of woody vines, consisting of only 9 species, belonging to the Legume family. It originates from China and Japan.

A tree-like deciduous vine, depending on the species, reaching from 8 to 20 meters with feathery, unpaired beautiful leaves with 7-19 segments - this is exactly what wisteria looks like. This plant blooms in spring with purple or white flowers, collected in fragrant inflorescences-tassels ranging in size from 30 to 50 cm. The fruit is a bean up to 15 cm long.

Wisteria loves warmth; growing it in areas with temperate and cold climates is difficult; the further you move north, the better shelter this vine requires for the winter. It should be noted that its plantings tolerate the polluted air of cities well.

Types and varieties

Although the plant is represented by 9 species, in the countries of the former Soviet Union, Chinese wisteria and profusely flowering or multi-flowered wisteria are most often grown.

Chinese wisteria

Chinese wisteria grows up to 15-20 meters; its imparipinnate leaf, about 30 cm in size, has from 7 to 11 (sometimes 13) leaflets, pubescent at the beginning of the growing season, later smooth. The stems wrap around the support counterclockwise.

Loose racemes up to 30 cm long consist of an abundance of fragrant flowers, usually light purple, less often white. Chinese wisteria blooms at the same time as the leaves appear, and all its flowers open almost simultaneously.

With good care, re-blooming may occur in August-September, not as abundant as the first, but also very attractive. This species can withstand short-term temperature drops to 20 degrees below zero.

Description of the most popular varieties:

  • “Alba” – white with short tassels;
  • “Prolific” – profusely flowering and with longer racemes than the original species;
  • “Sierra Madre” - wisteria of this variety blooms earlier than others with lilac-violet flowers;
  • “Plena” – wisteria, which has a double flower;
  • "Blue Sapphire" - begins to bloom in May or early summer with violet-blue flowers with a strong sweetish aroma.

Chinese wisteria "Alba"
Chinese wisteria "Blue Sapphire"

Wisteria profusely flowering or multi-flowered

More frost-resistant wisteria is profusely flowering or multi-flowered, very similar to Chinese, but blooms 2-3 weeks later and only after the leaves appear. Its leaf blade reaches 40 cm and has 11-19 segments. Wisteria grows profusely flowering up to 8 meters, its shoots twist clockwise.

Flower racemes reach half a meter, but in varietal plants they can exceed a meter in length. The flowers located at the base of the brush bloom first, then at the top. The most popular varieties:

  • "Alba" - white inflorescences up to 60 cm long;
  • "Celestina" - with lilac-blue flowers;
  • “Multiyuga” is a variety with racemes 0.9-1.2 meters long and lilac-blue flowers with a yellow base;
  • "Rosea" is a white and pink wisteria, its flower is about 45 cm in size and has purple wings and a boat;
  • "Royal Pearl" - with purple-violet flowers and tassels measuring 30-50 cm.

There is a form of “Variegata” - with multi-colored leaves.

Wisteria profusely flowering or multi-flowered "Rosea"
Wisteria profusely flowering or multi-flowered "Variegata"

Wisteria of other species

Wisteria macrocarpal is represented by a single variety. Wisteria called “Blue Moon” is the most frost-resistant of the existing ones and can withstand frosts up to 40 degrees, it grows quickly and blooms up to 3 times per season with lilac-blue flowers.

The variety with double purple flowers “Double Black Dragon” is unusually beautiful. It is interesting that its origin is unknown, as is its species - this flowering purple wisteria has characteristics of different species, experts classify it either as Chinese or multifloral.

Wisteria large-tasseled "Blue Moon"
Wisteria "Double Black Dragon"

Japanese wisteria usually blooms with white flowers less profusely than the species listed above, and its frost resistance is much lower.

Wisteria propagation methods

Wisteria is propagated by cuttings, seeds and layering.

Growing from seeds

Growing wisteria from seeds is easy, but you need to keep in mind that wisteria from seeds does not inherit varietal characteristics, and it may not bloom at all. Sometimes, though quite rarely, a vine grown from seeds surpasses the mother one in decorative qualities.

Wisteria seeds do not lose their viability for 2-3 years. Sowing time: end of November – beginning of December; directly into the soil - early in the spring, as soon as the snow melts. For seed germination, the substrate is composed of the following composition:

  • sheet soil - 4 parts;
  • turf soil – 1 part;
  • sand - 1 part.

Wisteria seeds

The seeds are placed on the ground and lightly crushed with sand or peat, then covered with glass or film and kept in a dark place at a temperature of 20-25 degrees. It is very important that the soil does not dry out, but is also not waterlogged - wisteria seeds can easily rot.

Shoots usually appear in a month, and after another 10-15 days they need to be placed in a bright place, slightly shaded, in order to accustom them to the sun. Wisteria seedlings are planted in separate pots in the phase of two true leaves, removed from the soil with a tablespoon so as not to damage the root. Seedlings are planted in a permanent place only the next year after germination.

Caring for wisteria grown from seeds will be much easier than caring for one grafted or obtained from cuttings. But it will bloom no earlier than in 4-6 years.

Propagation by cuttings

Shrubs and woody vines with soft wood are difficult to propagate by cuttings, including wisteria. But propagation by cuttings is still possible.

Take apical cuttings about 15 cm long at the very end of flowering or immediately after flowering. The lower leaves are torn off, the upper leaves are shortened by 2/3, the lower cut is treated with heteroauxin and planted in a mixture of sand, peat and fertile soil. Planting is done with a slope of approximately 30 degrees, burying one bud completely into the ground, the second should be at soil level. From this it is clear that very elongated shoots with sparse internodes are not suitable for cuttings.

The box with cuttings should be in a shady place, protected from strong winds, but with good ventilation. It is best to cover the plantings with a transparent film, ventilate and spray them daily. A few days after new leaves hatch, the cover needs to be removed.



Such plantings should overwinter either in cold greenhouses, if in winter the temperature there is about 10 degrees, or in a room with the same temperature and dim lighting. Cuttings can only be planted directly into open ground in the south, otherwise the wisteria will die. Growing cuttings can be considered successful even if 30% of the plantings survive by next spring. When the buds swell, it will be possible to plant the wisteria in a permanent place. The planted cuttings must be protected from the sun for the first time.


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Reproduction by layering

What is the easiest way to grow wisteria? An easy, reliable, but unproductive method of propagation is layering. In the spring, at the very beginning of the growing season, you need to select a good, low-lying annual shoot, bend it, cut it, and powder the wound surface with heteroauxin. Then plant it cut side down either in a pot placed nearby or in the ground, securing the branch with bent electrodes for reliability.

Reproduction by grafting

A varietal cutting is grafted in winter onto the root of a plant grown from seeds. Only a specialist can vaccinate the roots; caring for and growing a grafted plant for the first time cannot be called easy either. Let's leave this method of propagation to nurseries.

Planting wisteria in the ground

Beginner gardeners are often interested in the question of when to plant wisteria: in spring or autumn? It is planted and replanted in the spring. Before planting wisteria, choose a well-lit place, sheltered from the wind, with nutritious, well-drained soil.

Dig a hole measuring 60x60 cm and about 50 cm deep. If necessary, lay drainage, then fill the hole with fertile soil. Plant at the same depth at which the wisteria grew before. Its planting is completed by tying it to a support and abundant watering.


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Caring for wisteria after planting

Planting and caring for wisteria is not particularly difficult.

Watering

During active growth, the vine is watered systematically, but without over-wetting. In autumn, watering is gradually reduced, but do not forget that if the autumn is dry, it is necessary to do pre-winter moisture recharging. Wisteria tends to freeze, and this procedure cannot be neglected.

Feeding

For the first three years, wisteria needs regular feeding. From the beginning of the growing season until the end of flowering, it is fed twice a month with complex mineral fertilizers. At the end of August and September, feed the plant with monopotassium phosphate or any other phosphorus-potassium fertilizer that does not contain nitrogen at all.

Starting from the fourth year after planting, you can feed wisteria 4 times per season:

  • The first fertilizing (immediately after the start of the growing season) containing nitrogen;
  • The second and third (during the formation of buds and at the height of flowering) - little nitrogen, a lot of phosphorus and potassium;
  • The fourth (end of August - September) is phosphorus-potassium feeding.

Do not feed wisteria with organic fertilizers - they contain high doses of nitrogen, and the plant is a legume that produces it itself.

Care after flowering



During flowering, regularly remove faded inflorescences. The wisteria has bloomed. Further care consists of watering, loosening, fertilizing, removing weeds and pruning.

Trimming and shaping

This vine can easily be formed into a small tree or bonsai. Wisteria at the age of several decades has a rather thick trunk - up to 20-30 cm. But even at a younger age, old shoots cannot be called thin. If you want to get something exotic and not like a vine, you need to start forming it from the first years of life.

Proper and timely pruning is the key to abundant, long-term flowering. To get a large number of flower buds immediately after flowering, cut off last year's shoots, leaving no more than 30 cm (the remaining cuttings can be rooted). In mid-August, shorten the current year's growth, leaving 4-5 buds, and in the spring, after removing the cover, trim another 2-3 internodes.

Wintering

This is perhaps the most difficult stage of caring for wisteria. In the southernmost regions it grows without shelter, a little further to the north it is spudded like roses. The further north wisteria grows, the more serious shelter it needs. In the fall, it is removed from its support, laid on the ground, covered with spruce branches, covered with agrofibre, if necessary, additionally covered with leaves.

But there will come a time when you simply cannot remove the wisteria from the support. Then you will have to install a special covering structure around the support. The older the plant, the more frost it can withstand.

Pests, diseases and possible problems

Wisteria rarely gets sick and is affected by pests. Use insecticides to control insects.

If the soil is excessively alkaline, iron may stop being absorbed - treat the wisteria leaf with a complex of chelates or water it with iron chelate.

Why doesn't wisteria bloom? There may be several reasons:

  • Trimming too short;
  • There were no formative trims;
  • Excess of nitrogen fertilizers and lack of phosphorus;
  • Flower buds froze in winter;
  • The plant is too young;
  • Wisteria is grown from seeds and will not bloom at all.

Wisteria in landscape design






Wisteria is beautiful in itself and does not need to be emphasized. But it will look great against the backdrop of green plantings or in company with tulips growing at the foot.

Wisteria will look especially beautiful against the background of a building wall or as a frame for a gazebo, balcony or terrace.

Formed as a standard tree or bonsai, the plant will look impressive as a tub plant anywhere in the garden or home; during flowering it should be placed in the most visible place.

Evgeniy Sedov

When your hands grow from the right place, life is more fun :)

Content

Wisteria (wisteria) is the dream of all gardeners; it ranks first in beauty among perennial weaving plants. The flowering of such a vine resembles a bright colorful waterfall of clusters of flowers, emitting a sweetish pleasant smell. The cultivation of wisteria is actively used by flower growers for decorative purposes. It is used to decorate the walls of houses and gazebos, terraces, fences, and arches.

Features of growing wisteria of different varieties

Before buying a vine seedling and planting it in your garden, you should find out which species are suitable for our climatic conditions and what are the features of their cultivation. Wisteria as a genus includes 9 species, but only three are suitable for our area: Chinese, frost-resistant, and abundantly flowering. When growing such vines, the following conditions must be provided:

  • Bright sun. Abundant flowering of wisteria can only be achieved in a sunny area.
  • A solid foundation. Liana is a climbing plant, and it needs a good, strong support along which it will grow.
  • Stable watering. From spring to summer, the soil on which wisteria grows must be kept moist. The main thing is not to overdo it, the plant does not tolerate excess moisture.
  • Feeding with fertilizers. Like other plants, wisteria needs fertilizer, especially during the budding period.
  • Careful shelter for the winter. Despite the fact that such a vine is a frost-resistant plant, it is recommended to wrap its twigs with leaves, paper, roofing felt or special covering material for the winter.
  • Pruning. For dense flowering, wisteria is pruned 2 times a year (at the end of flowering, after leaf fall).

If the climatic conditions of your region do not allow growing a vine outdoors in open ground, try planting it in a flowerpot, like a standard tree. In autumn and winter it will decorate the hallway or hall of your home, and in spring and summer it will decorate the terrace or entrance to the house. To form a wisteria crown, you will need to trim young side shoots several times in the spring.

Chinese (Wisteriachinensis)

The birthplace of tree wisteria is China. The plant is characterized by dense foliage, the length of the shoots reaches a height of 15-20 m. The leaf of Chinese wisteria is large (20-30 cm long), has a complex imparipinnate shape and consists of 7-13 small leaves. The liana blooms with light purple (in rare cases white) flowers, which are collected in 40 cm brushes and all bloom at the same time. Flowering begins with the appearance of foliage and lasts until the end of summer. This often happens again in early September.

Wisteria is a heat-loving and light-loving plant, but it also develops well in the shade. It is not particularly demanding on the soil, but it is preferable to plant the plant on fertile, moist soil. This vine is well adapted to urban conditions and can withstand short-term temperature drops down to -20C. Wisteria grows quickly, raising the stems along the support from right to left. With systematic pruning, the plant is suitable for growing in pots and tubs.

Frost-resistant (Blue Moon)

This plant is native to North America. Blue Moon wisteria is fast growing, its maximum length is 8 m. The bush has odd pinnate leaves (consists of 7-9 leaflets) of a glossy dark green color. The inflorescence is abundant and dense, reaches a length of 25-30 cm, consists of bluish or blue-purple flowers. Frost-resistant wisteria blooms in the first ten days of June and blooms for 2-3 weeks.

The main feature of this vine is its good tolerance of extreme cold down to -40C. It is advisable to plant the plant in a sunny area or on the south side of the building. Wisteria grows on any type of soil, but in order to achieve maximum flowering results, it is recommended to grow it on black soil or loam. It is not recommended to plant the bush in marshy, calcareous places. This type of wisteria does not require watering and tolerates drought well. Only young plants need to be watered systematically.

Abundantly flowering or multi-flowering (Wisteria floribunda)

This wisteria was originally bred in Japan. The height of the vine reaches 8-10 meters, has very large leaves (40cm) with 15-19 small leaves. The size of clusters of inflorescences reaches 50-70 cm. Wisteria blooms after the leaves bloom, in the second half of May, sometimes again at the end of summer. The flowers bloom gradually, starting from the base of the brush and ending at the bottom.

Multi-flowered wisteria can withstand frosts down to -25C. The liana prefers sunny areas with light, moderately moist, loose soil, without stagnant water rich in nutrients. Wisteria multiflorum wraps its stems around the support only in a clockwise direction. The colors of the flowers are varied: white, pale pink, pale purple, reddish.

Rules for planting wisteria

You need to plant 1-2 year old wisteria seedlings. When planting a plant, it is necessary to follow simple rules, on which the further growth of the plant and its flowering depend. Wisteria should be provided with a brightly lit place with light, fertile soil, strong supports along which it will weave in the future, and reliable shelter in the winter.

Location

Sunlight is very important for wisteria; it needs to be in the sun for at least 6 hours a day. But there should be no drafts; the best choice would be the south, southeast, southwest side of the building. For wisteria shoots, prepare in advance and install a durable, strong support that is resistant to wind loads. When choosing a planting site, take into account the toxicity of the plant, so it is not recommended to plant wisteria near water sources.

Soil preparation

For abundant flowering of wisteria, light, fertile, well-permeable soil is required. If the soil is acidic, it is necessary to lime it a little. Just don’t overdo it; with too much lime, the vine loses its attractiveness and its leaves become light. Before planting wisteria, clay soil must be drained with organic fertilizers. For a plant seedling, dig a deep hole, fill it with humus, river sand, leaf and clay-turf soil, mixed in equal parts.

Best time to disembark

The time for planting wisteria depends on its method of reproduction:

  • Cuttings. Spring time is suitable for good rooting. To do this, select a one-year-old shoot and make an oblique cut in the middle of its length. At this point, the cuttings are planted in soil fertilized with a nutrient substrate. At the end of summer, cuttings with roots are replanted as intended.
  • Seeds. In December, wisteria beans are sown in a greenhouse in well-drained soil fertilized with a mixture of leaf soil, turf soil and sand (4:1:1 ratio). To maintain moisture, the crops are covered with glass or plastic wrap and stored in a dark place. After 4 weeks, shoots appear and are brought into the light. When the sprouts grow to a small bush, they are planted in an outdoor greenhouse.

Wisteria care

Caring for such a gorgeous vine is not so difficult. It will bloom thickly only in well-lit areas, protected from gusts of wind. It is important to constantly tie up wisteria shoots so that they can grow and their tips do not dry out. The liana needs to be pruned regularly after flowering so that it blooms more intensely the next season. If you follow these care rules, your plant will grow actively and bloom profusely.

From early spring until the end of summer, the soil of wisteria should be slightly moist, then the leaves will have a bright, rich green tint. It is also impossible to overwater, the plant does not like too wet soil. During dry periods, the vine is watered more abundantly so that the buds do not fall off due to lack of moisture. In the second half of December, watering is stopped; the plant needs to prepare for wintering.

Fertilizer

Wisteria vines grow to large sizes, so that the flowers and leaves have a beautiful decorative appearance throughout the season, liquid fertilizing is required:

  • Mineral fertilizer. For 1 m2 of territory you will need 10 liters of water and 20 g of fertilizer.
  • Compost.
  • Tinctures of rotted manure (1:20).
  • Chalk solution (100 g per 1 bucket of water).

Diseases and pests

Wisteria is resistant to diseases, and due to its poisonous properties it is extremely rarely attacked by pests. It can be:

  • Caterpillars that make holes in leaves. They are neutralized by spraying with a biological preparation.
  • Green aphid. It affects leaves and flowers and is destroyed by insecticides.
  • Clover mite. Identified by the unnatural bronze color of the leaves, in this case the vine is treated with acaricides.

How and when to prune a plant

The density of wisteria flowering and the longevity of the plant depend on correctly performed and timely pruning. The timing of the work plays an important role here. The liana is pruned 2 times a year according to the scheme presented below. Immediately upon landing:

  • Using pruning shears, we cut the main shoot of the plant to a strong bud (approximately at a height of 75-90 cm).
  • We remove all the side shoots of the vine to stimulate the growth of the main stem.

1 year, summer:

  • We knit the top shoot of wisteria vertically, and several others at an angle of 45 degrees.

2nd year, winter:

  • At a height of 75-80 cm, shorten the main stem.
  • Form a few more horizontal shoots and shorten a third of their length.

2nd year and until the end of formation, summer:

  • Tie the main stem of the vine to a support.
  • Pick up a couple more side shoots and tie them at a 45 degree angle.
  • If excess growth forms at the base of the wisteria. Delete it.
  • Tie a new main stem of each side branch to the vine and shorten all second-order branches to 20 cm so that they have 3-4 buds.

3rd year and subsequent:

  • We perform similar actions, creating vertical growth of wisteria and the formation of lateral shoots.