INFRARED HEATING FILM FOR SUPPLY VOLTAGE 12 V.
12 Volt thermal film can be used not only for heating car seats or warming up the fuel tank in a car with a diesel engine. This heating film can also be used for safe local heating in areas where it is not recommended to use thermal film with a voltage of 220 Volts. For example, with the help of such a heating film, you can very easily organize floor heating in the bathroom, without fear of receiving an electric shock if the supply cable or the heating film itself is damaged. Of course, you will feel much calmer if your four-legged pet's rug is heated with a safe voltage.
You can cut the module lengthwise, but you must isolate the cut line; the module cannot be cut widthwise.
We offer two options for heating film for 12 Volt voltage:
Heating film Hot-Film (South Korea)
Module size 30 x 50 cm designed for a supply voltage of 12 Volts (thermal film for a voltage of 24 V can be supplied upon additional order). Heating temperature 50 o C.
Heating film is supplied in rolls of 100 linear meters. m
Where and how can a heating film be used at 12 Volts?
1. Heated car seats.
Depending on the size of the car seat, you can use a heating film with the appropriate module size: 17 x 12 cm or 30 x 50 cm. In addition, the module itself can be cut to length to obtain the required size. In this case, it is additionally necessary to completely insulate the entire side of the heating film along which the module was cut. If entire modules are used, then only the exit point of the copper strip on the cutting line needs to be insulated (4 such areas for insulation).
For example, a film with a module size of 30 x 50 cm can be cut into two parts (the length of each section of the module can be selected for a specific chair), you will get two sections of film - for heating the seat and the back of the chair. It is necessary to connect the film segments to the on-board network in parallel.
The power consumption of one module (30 x 50 cm) of the heating film is 30 Watts, which is significantly less than that of other analogues.
More details can be found here.
2. Heating of the fuel tank and fuel filter of a car with a diesel engine.
Anyone who is involved in the operation of diesel cars knows what problems they have to face in winter, and even during the transition period (autumn/winter) quite a few problems arise, because Our gas stations usually sell winter diesel fuel only when frost sets in. What should you do if, with the onset of frost, there is still summer diesel fuel left in the tank?
There is a solution - using a heating film you can organize heating of the fuel tank and fuel filter.
More details can be found here.
3. Heating film with a voltage of 12 Volts can also be used to heat rooms where the use of a voltage of 220 Volts is not recommended or advisable.
For example, there is a desire to make a heated floor in the bathroom, but there is no desire to renovate. In this case, you can use a heating film with a 30 x 50 cm module by simply placing it under the mat. 12 Volt voltage is safe.
Heating film
If you have access to a household power supply, heating the room is not a problem: the stores are full of products for every taste and budget.
But what should someone do who, instead of a full 220 volts, only has 12?
It turns out that such a modest voltage can also serve as a source of life-giving heat, but you will have to make a device for its extraction yourself. How to make a 12 volt heater with your own hands?
Of course, in a working car, a 12-volt electric heater is, to put it mildly, useless. But anything can happen: it happens that the stove refuses to work at the most “appropriate” moment, and the car enthusiast, sitting inside an uninsulated metal box, is left alone with the severe frost. Also, a homemade 12 V heater may be needed if the rear window heating system breaks down.
To make it you will need a mere trifle:
If everything is ready, you can start creating a homemade heater.
First of all, the computer power supply needs to be disassembled into its components. We carry out the disassembly in full: we remove the electronic board fixed with self-tapping screws, the cooler, as well as connectors and switches (during the operation of the heater, they can become a source of an unpleasant odor).
Did you know that a candle flame can be used to heat a room? Let's take a look and also talk about the nuances of its use.
Can using an infrared heater be harmful to health? You will find the answer to this question.
Wondering what is better: a convector or an oil heater? Here are the comparative characteristics of these devices according to various parameters.
To make a heating element, you don’t need to “reinvent the wheel”: for this purpose we will use a nichrome spiral - the same as that installed in any heating element. Nichrome (an alloy of nickel and chromium) is a conductor, but it also has significant electrical resistance, so it gets very hot when an electric current is passed through it.
Spirals are made by winding nichrome wire onto any cylindrical rod.
It is important to select the resistance of the heating elements and their connection diagram (in parallel or in series) so that the heater does not overload the on-board electrical network.
Otherwise, the operation of the device will be accompanied by all sorts of undesirable phenomena, for example, insufficient battery charging.
Car heater
As an example, consider a Daewoo Sens car. The electric generator installed in it is designed for a current of 70 A. In such conditions, it is permissible to use an electric heater that consumes a current of 10 - 15 A - such a load for the on-board electrical network will be almost imperceptible.
The finished nichrome spirals need to be screwed to a piece of tile using M5 bolts and the same nuts. The tile will have to be drilled for this.
The tile with heaters must be secured in the housing from the power supply in such a way that the cooler installed in its place blows on it, expelling warm air into the car interior. As a result, we will get a 12-volt fan heater.
To prevent the material from crumbling, tape or adhesive tape should be placed on it at the drilling site, and the drill should rotate at a minimum speed.
At the assembly stage, the cooler and cover are installed.
After which all wires are connected to the heater.
Their cross-section must correspond to the calculated current strength.
In a copper wire, for every 10 A there should be 1 sq. mm section, in aluminum - 1.25 sq. mm.
Do not confuse the diameter of the core with its cross-sectional area - for small-diameter wires these values are very similar.
You also need to insert a fuse into the device circuit, which is again selected depending on the calculated current strength.
Despite the modest voltage, the homemade heater consumes an impressive current and heats up quite strongly. To avoid accidents, it must be secured securely so that the device does not accidentally fall while the car is moving.
Nichrome makes good thermoelements, but what to do if you don’t have this material at hand? It turns out that ordinary soot can replace it.
It is also a high-resistance conductor, but it has an important feature: a significant part of the thermal energy is released by the heated material in the form of infrared radiation.
This means that heaters with a carbon element heat not only the air, but also the user directly who is in the area of infrared radiation. This property made it possible to create thin film heaters based on carbon emitters.
The device will consist of the following components:
You will also need some tools, materials and products:
The heater is manufactured in several stages:
The operation must be interrupted periodically to allow the glass to cool.
Now you need to cut out two parts from aluminum foil in the shape of oblong rectangles, the length of which will correspond to the width of the soot strip.
They will serve as terminals for connecting wires.
At this stage, you need to measure the resistance of the carbon coating. We place aluminum contacts on both sides and press them with the second glass.
Now you can use a multimeter by placing its probes on the protruding pieces of aluminum foil. We are satisfied with a resistance of 120 Ohms, then the power of the device will be 1.2 W. If the device shows a different value, you need to remove (to increase resistance) or add (to decrease) a little soot.
Instead of carbon black, you can use a mixture of graphite and epoxy glue. Then, instead of glass, you can use laminated paper plastic as a base.
In order to escape the cold with the help of this heater, it is enough to have a charged car battery.
Prepare the following items:
You will need more than modest tools:
Let's start tinkering:
Warm-up time for this heater is approximately 10 minutes. Warming your hands on it should be done with caution, as the temperature of the metal can becomes quite high.
Of course, a homemade electric heater, even such a low-power one, cannot be used in a room filled with flammable gases and fumes. It should also be kept away from flammable materials.
Monitor your battery charge level. If the voltage at its terminals drops to 10 V, the heater must be turned off immediately. If this is not done, the battery will be irreversibly damaged.
Today, the variety of heaters is so great that it is difficult for the buyer to decide on the choice of device. In this article we will consider the principle of operation and selection criteria.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of ceiling infrared heaters, you will learn in the material.
In this master class I will show you how to make a small electric heater that runs on 12 volts and consumes 80 watts of power. It gives a nice warm breeze which is enough to warm your hands. The mini heater is very easy to make; it can be made from a computer cooler in less than 30 minutes.
(12 volts) is used to heat local zones or areas. Devices are divided into several types, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's consider their features and characteristics, as well as their scope of application.
This device is a device for heating specific areas where an additional increase in temperature or constant additional heating is required. Unit configuration: which contains heating elements made of an iron and magnesium alloy, as well as an aluminum conductor up to four microns that conducts electricity.
Heat is produced in the form of infrared radiation. A heating element (12 volts) of this type is used in production and at home. The abbreviated name of the unit is INE; it allows you to quickly get rid of fogging of mirrors and other equipment in rooms with high humidity, and will also provide heating for parts of the vehicle, hives, incubators, seedlings and much more.
Infrared rays are essentially heat that travels directly to a specific object. Such devices are popular in medicine for warming up equipment and treating certain diseases.
The infrared heating element operates with a voltage of 12 volts, which makes it possible to ensure aggregation of the device with variable and constant networks, including automotive circuits. The unit in question significantly simplifies the operation of the vehicle in winter, providing heated mirrors, seats and other components of the car. Additional functionality is available by using a transformer.
When operating this device, it is important to select the correct operating temperature. The maximum mode for INE is 60-75 degrees Celsius, depending on the modification of the heater.
Characteristics of the heating element (12 volts, infrared):
They are used for drying products both at home and in industrial volumes. The test results confirmed the feasibility of this method, due to the preservation of the beneficial properties of the product while it dries quickly.
Such a 12-volt element is used in heating systems for areas where mains voltage is not available. The devices can be connected to a car network or the length of flat tape-type heaters ranges from 1 to 4 meters. A larger range is not provided due to design features and limitations. The cost of such a device is affected by the shell material and length. At low temperatures, it is recommended to use the ENGL-1 type, whose specific power is 32 W/m.
The tape heating element (12 volts) is used for the following purposes:
Such devices are actively used in northern regions to adapt the machine to critically low temperatures.
Below are the characteristics of flexible heaters of the ENGL-1 type (the parameters of the ENGL-2 and ENGLU-400 models are indicated in brackets):
All models are waterproof, highly flexible and easy to install.
As practice shows, one by one they heat normally, but when connected in series - a little worse. A parallel type connection causes a decrease in power and problems with turning on the device. The device is characterized by fast heating and stable temperature maintenance at the required level.
The ceramic heating element (12 volts) is a pulse unit consisting of a pair of working parts. The voltage is measured with a standard multimeter. The exact characteristics are indicated in the passport, and the nominal value is 12 volts with the possibility of breaking the circuit after reaching the temperature limit of 230 degrees. The thermal fuse provided in the design is responsible for this position.
You can make a miniature heating element (12 volts) yourself. To do this, you will need nichrome with a diameter of up to 0.1 mm, slightly larger steel wire and asbestos thread with a thin sewing needle. First, the wire winding made of steel and nichrome is securely fixed by twisting.
Next, a circuit is assembled that serves as a determinant of the number of coils of the heating coil. After connection, the voltage is gradually increased, according to the readings of the voltmeter and ammeter. At a value of 12 volts, the approximate power of the device will be 5.5 W. This invention can be used to operate an electric soldering iron or similar tools.
A heating element for an incubator (12 volts) can be made in several ways. The first of them is heating using a carbon cord. Below are its features:
Winding is done carefully, using non-conducting parts made of textolite, ceramics or similar materials. The cord is connected to crimp sleeves to which a copper wire is connected. The heating level depends directly on the network voltage, which requires the inclusion of a stabilizer in the design.
Such a device has a number of pros and cons. Let's start with the advantages:
The disadvantages include susceptibility to deformation due to mechanical stress, as well as connection only to a network with a voltage of 220 V. To reverse, you need to purchase an inverter of a suitable modification. Another significant drawback of this method of heating incubators is inertia.
A flat film-type heater acts on the interior elements of the room, which subsequently heat the air. To further retain heat, a reflective substrate is placed under the film. Distinctive features of this model:
An incandescent lamp provides fast heating, is sold in any hardware store, and is connected to circuits from 12 to 220 V. The heater is as simple as possible to install and maintain. The main disadvantage is the sharp tungsten filament when the device is turned on.
If you plan to build a large-volume incubator, it is better to make the heating element from nichrome, incandescent lamps or a heating cable. In the case of connecting to a source with a 12 volt output, it is recommended to use flexible ones. It is advisable to take care of purchasing a generator, since possible power outages can lead to damage to the eggs.
A little guidance for those who want to heat the formicarium.
Heating elements in the form of a plate are quite expensive, the cheapest I could find cost 800 rubles. The question is why? In fact, there is nothing supernatural or expensive, for this money you can buy a touch player with the ability to watch video, and if you add another 500 rubles, you can go online.
Therefore, I am going to tell you how to assemble the simplest, even primitive heating element that anyone can assemble for a very modest investment, and “Plyushkins” are generally free.
What you will need:
1) power sources: I used an old mobile phone charger voltage 5V current 0.7A
2) nichrome wire - this is what will actually create heat. Where can I get this wire? In an old Soviet iron that no one has needed for a long time, you can also disassemble a hair dryer, a toaster, a heater (the one with a propeller) if you don’t have such devices in mind or your hand doesn’t raise your hand to find a rarity, then the wire is freely sold in radio stores, the cost is 0.7 mm - 15 rubles per meter, I bought 2 meters. 
Assembling the heating:
1) Find out the size of the plate we need; for me it was a square of 11x11 cm. 
2) Next, from plastic, plywood or any other readily available but non-conductive material, cut out the size of the square, rectangle or whatever you need and cover one of its sides with 2-sided tape 
3) Then lay out a snake-shaped pattern from the nichrome wire on the plate as shown in the photo, try to make sure that the contacts to which the power source will be connected are close to each other, and the bends of the wire do not short circuit with each other. 
4) After laying the wire, fix it on the plate, I used a regular transparent tape, after fixing the wire, connect the power source to check whether the plate is heating and how much. (in the photo: upper scale room temperature lower temperature sensor above the plate) 
5) Installation in a formicarium. If you do not have a corresponding recess in the gypsum plate, then you will have to cut it; it took me 2 hours; if you are just planning to cast a new mold, then consider laying the plate in advance. Mount the plate with the wire towards the cameras. 
6) Install insulation between the back wall of the formicarium and the plate so as not to lose heat by heating the unnecessary side of the formicarium. What insulation should I use? the one that will be at hand)) 
Conclusion:
Well, the heating of the formicarium is ready, I got 2 right chambers.
Before turning on the power source, I specially turned off the table lamp; the lower scale of the thermometer shows the temperature inside the formicarium.
After 1.5 hours of work, the temperature clearly exceeded the desired one, condensation began to form on the glass (my gypsum board has not yet been dried)
Well, I’ll have to make a rheostat, I’ll tell you how to assemble a simple rheostat next time! good luck to all
