Humus or humus is the most effective complete organic fertilizer with long-term microelements. Simply put, if you rent a plot of land for up to 5 years and the prospect of extending the lease agreement is not clear, then it is advisable to apply quick, highly active fertilizers, incl. compost and rotted manure. If you have your own farm, which you intend to pass on by inheritance, then Regular fertilization with humus will preserve and increase soil fertility for many years. Although quick, from spring to autumn, the effect of using humus for fertilizer is quite noticeable. In the case where the plot is small and does not allow for proper crop rotation, it is difficult to do without humus - regular fertilizing is needed throughout the season, but without thorough knowledge of agrochemistry, local conditions and soil properties, it is easy to deplete it within 3-5 years, and reclamation is difficult and road. Humus will serve as a general strengthening agent for the earth and create a stable soil environment favorable for plants. Artificially prepared humus is a loose earthy mass of various shades of brown, see figure:
Humus is formed from the manure of herbivores and plant residues with the correct alternation of their aerobic and anaerobic decomposition. Unlike compost in a pit, in order to form humus, aerobes must completely finish their work and smoothly pass the baton to anaerobes, which do not form volatile compounds of nitrogen and sulfur. This requires a small amount of air access to the humus formation zone, which does not allow the most aggressive anaerobes to “run wild”.
Even the most humus-rich soil, e.g. steppe, in agriculture it needs to replenish humus reserves. Under natural conditions, its natural influx is ensured by the winter-spring rotting of dead plant debris and waste from wild animals. This is not the case in the cultivated area, and the humus horizon is continuously thinned by commercial crops during the growing season, leaching under the influence of precipitation and simply irrigation water. Prompt fertilizing with mineral fertilizers allows you to reap good harvests even on lean soil, but replenishing the natural loss of humus will significantly reduce the cost of them, as well as eliminate the risk of overfeeding plants or a sharp drop in yield in unfavorable years.
The composition of humus in terms of plant nutrients remains generally the same as that of the original raw material, see Fig. since the ripening mass is not subject to leaching during cooking, see below. But radical changes occur with organic matter during the process of humus maturation. Aerobic and anaerobic bacteria, replacing each other, convert the organic components of manure and plant residues first into active organic acids and then into humic acids.
The agrotechnical properties of humus are largely explained by the presence of humic compounds. Thanks to them, the microstructure of humus is elastic, slightly sticky lumps with gaps between them. The mechanical properties of humus microgranules are maintained over a wide range of humidity, temperature and pH of soil moisture. As a result, humus:
In general, humus is used as a fertilizer in terms of activity, i.e. availability of nutrients for plants in it is inferior to fresh manure, slurry and rotted manure. Therefore, it is much less likely to burn the roots of plants with humus than with fresh or just rotted organic matter. However, humus must be added to the soil in a certain way, see below. At the same time, the regulatory properties of humus will ensure its long-term effect. If you need to get a quick effect from humus (during the season before harvest, but not immediately in 2-7 days), it should be used where the routes for migration of food to plants are minimal, also see below.
Note: the use of humus for fertilizer on normal and alkaline soils does not require mandatory periodic liming, because During the process of humus ripening, the acidity pH of the ripening mass drops from 7.8-8.1, like that of fresh manure, to 7.2-7.5, i.e. to neutral value.
There are quite enough offers for the sale of humus, but adding purchased humus to open ground will cost much more than “doping” from mineral fertilizers into depleted soil or foliar fertilizers. It is advisable to buy humus for potted or greenhouse crops: in them it is consumed faster, and in winter it may simply not be available when mature. In this case, when purchasing, you need to check the quality of the humus. This is easy to do by taking a handful from the pile and not completely squeezing it in your fist. The humus sample should shrink like not excessively moistened loam, see Fig. on right:
It is best to use humus in private households for your own consumption or commercial use for the garden and, in the spring, for berry gardens. In the garden, the nutrition from humus simply does not have time to reach the small suction roots of trees during the season. Fruit trees need to be provided with humus in a natural way (see also below), introducing manure into a trench in the fall along the contour of the trunk circle. However, fertilizing with manure is a different topic.
So, for the dacha and personal plot, humus It will be cheaper, although more troublesome, to cook it yourself. The formation of humus instead of compost (see also at the end) requires compliance with certain conditions:
In general, you can make humus yourself in a pile or in a box. The hole will produce compost, but not humus. The pile method is suitable when there is a lack of initial components on not completely depleted soils that require filling with humus every 4-5 years. A typical example is ordinary garden land in a dacha or personal plot for one’s own consumption and partially, if there is a surplus of produce, for sale. For predominantly commercial farming with annual soil amendment with humus, as well as in cool regions with rainy summers, it needs to be prepared in a box.
Note: Burm humus can be obtained ready-made and more often if you lay several heaps in a year or two, because you cannot take it from an unripe heap. The dimensions of the collar in plan are approx. 1.5x1.5 m, so it’s up to the owner to decide how much use this land area will bring.
In fairly humid places with warm winters and unstable snow cover, it is possible to prepare humus naturally directly on the site; then no special technique for introducing it is required. Within the Russian Federation, humus can be prepared naturally in regions from Voronezh to the Caucasus, except for the arid zone in the east (south of the Volgograd region, Astrakhan, Dagestan).
To prepare humus in a pile, the so-called. using the French method, you need a plot of dense, infertile soil: it does not sink under the heap and does not suck moisture out of it. The area for the collar with dimensions from 1.2x1.2 to 2x2 m is surrounded by boards and drainage made of crushed stone or gravel is poured into the resulting tray. Without fencing, the drainage during the ripening of the mass will spread under the heap and it will sit on the ground. This is fraught with capillary leaching of the mass and its contamination by weeds and pests.
A bedding of straw, reeds or reeds is laid on the drainage. Backfilling of the material is done as for a compost heap (see figure), in layers of 10-15 cm, but organic components are needed only from those indicated above. The soil for seeding with bacteria is garden soil from the site. Pile height – approx. 3/4 of its side; 0.9-1.5 m for the above sizes. Each laying layer is sprayed until moderately moist.
Note: if the plant organic matter in the pile is hay from a floodplain meadow (grazing area), it will be useful to sprinkle each soil layer, except the top one, with crushed eggshells for approx. half a glass per sq. m. This will prevent calcium deficiency in the humus.
A canopy made of any light-proof, moisture-proof material is installed over the collar; ventilation gap between the canopy and the top of the pile is approx. 0.5 m. After spring thunderstorms until the beginning of autumn, the canopy is moved obliquely to the south side so that the collar is wetted by rain. Drying out the pile in direct sunlight is unacceptable, it will immediately ruin the entire batch!
Humus is considered mature when the heap stops settling. This usually happens in the 4th-5th year, when the apparent volume of the heap decreases three to four times. Mature humus should smell quite strongly of damp earth, the so-called. spring scent and tested for suitability as above. Ammonia, sulfur, chlorine and other foreign odors are a clear sign that this batch was a failure.
For annual use, especially in unfavorable climatic conditions, you need to prepare humus with your own hands in the American way in a 3-section box, its structure is shown in Fig; the outer cladding of the first section is not shown. Unlike a compost bin, in a humus bin it is better not to have doors that slide upward to remove the finished compost from underneath, but rather to have collapsible doors made from boards. As the heap settles, the top boards are removed to allow the released gases to escape, otherwise the heap may suffocate.
Note: Since the humus box must operate for many years, the material for it must be of sufficient quality. The optimal combination of price and durability is boards from construction pallets. How to make a compost bin out of pallets, see the video below.
The natural way to enrich the soil with humus is very simple: rotted dry crushed manure is scattered on the ground before winter. There is no need to add too much; soil bacteria will not cope with the excess. You need to throw it so that the earth is visible everywhere under the manure. Usually a bucket is enough for 2-4 square meters. m or more. It is also useful to lay out some straw in advance and plow it or dig up the area. You need to scatter manure on damp ground so that it sticks immediately and is not blown away by the winds.
The use of humus for fertilizer is also possible in several ways, depending on the crop being treated and the desired time for the effect to appear:
Humus for application during planting is mixed with garden soil 1:2 by volume. Half a bucket (bush/tree) is poured into the seedling pits, sprinkled with 10-15 cm of soil and planted. The planted plant is watered abundantly. For seedlings, peat pots or a box are filled 1/3-1/2 with the mixture, covered to the top with soil and the seeds are sown. Then the furrows or holes are also prepared for planting seedlings in the ground, but the mixture is made from humus and soil 1:4.
From autumn to spring, immediately after the snow melts, humus is scattered over the site at the rate of a bucket per 2-3 square meters. m. The treated area is harrowed, cultivated or raked. Autumn-spring application of humus should be carried out in moderately moist soil.
Prompt feeding of garden crops with humus during the season is done by mixing it with soil 1:4 – 1:5. The mixture is used to mulch the plants under the roots, stepping back from the root collar by 2-3 cm, or, if planted tightly, between the rows. Seasonal fertilizing with humus should be carried out following the general feeding rules: after watering in the evening or in cloudy weather.
The proportions and nutrient content in compost can be the same as in humus, especially since both vary over a fairly wide range. However, the main difference from humus is that the former does not structure the soil and does not have a long-term positive effect on its fertility. Compost also has a much weaker regulatory effect on the transport of nutrients from the soil to plants. Very It is also important that the danger of plant infection when fertilizing with humus is practically zero: in the anaerobic environment created in the ripening mass of humus, the embryos of weeds and pests do not survive.
Humus or humus is an effective organic fertilizer containing long-term microelements. Humus has a general strengthening effect on the earth and creates a favorable environment for plants. However, not many gardeners know what it is. Let's take a closer look at what humus is, its composition, and how it differs from compost.
Humus is a useful organic fertilizer that is formed as a result of the complete decomposition of manure. To turn into humus, the manure of birds or herbivores must lie for at least two years. It does not have an unpleasant odor, but looks like a black substance, mixed with plants and smelling of fresh earth.
Humus is completely harmless. Thanks to it, the soil is enriched with all the necessary microelements and minerals, as a result of which you can get a rich harvest of fruits and vegetables on your site. It contains humic acids that are beneficial for plants. They dissolve well in soda, ammonia, alkalis, sodium pyrophosphate and are insoluble in water. In addition, humus contains substances such as fulvic acids, which are strongly acidic and can dissolve in water. Another group of substances, humins, do not dissolve in anything.
This fertilizer contains nutrients in large quantities. It absorbs moisture well and helps to hold it. At the same time, the humus particles remain as elastic, and air gaps appear between them, necessary for the roots to breathe. Fertilizer helps to improve the soil: in sandy soil it helps retain water and nutrients in the root zone, and in heavy clay soil it makes it loose, nutritious, and airy.
If humus used as mulch, favorable conditions are created in the top layer of soil. There are no crusts with capillaries that, like a sponge, draw moisture from the soil. Beneficial bacteria and earthworms begin to colonize under the mulch, increasing the efficiency of the roots. The soil under humus cools much more slowly and also warms up slowly, that is, the temperature changes quite smoothly. This allows heat-loving plants to survive: with the onset of autumn they have time to prepare for wintering, and in the spring they do not wake up ahead of time and therefore are not affected by frost.
In extreme heat The soil surface mulched with humus does not burn the root collar of plants. But it is through the damaged area that the pathogens of verticillium in pepper, clematis, garden strawberries and other crops can penetrate. The nutrients contained in humus mulch begin to gradually penetrate to the roots of plants with rain and watering, resulting in the beds are fertilized and moistened.
In addition, humus is an indispensable fertilizer when growing indoor plants and seedlings. Humus as part of the substrate(raw humus) brings great benefits:
There are three main types of humus, the use of which gives maximum results as a result of fertilizing the soil in the garden plot:
After ripening, humus from manure is an excellent plant food, rich in all necessary microelements. It is recommended to fertilize the soil with such humus 2 times a year while digging the garden. In autumn, unripe humus can also be distributed into the soil. By the planting season, it should decompose, as a result of which the seedlings will receive all the necessary elements for their growth and development.
Leaf humus is the safest and most common fertilizer used by gardeners, but it does not contain nutrients. This fertilizing is used to improve the composition of the soil. It is not capable of harming plants and can be fertilized in any quantity, but without fear of overdose. And preparing leaf humus is very simple..
At gardening markets, any summer resident can purchase ready-made humus, sold in bags, but it is quite expensive. It is much more profitable to buy manure from a farm and prepare humus yourself. To do this, the manure must be placed in a compost bin or pile where it will mature. If a box is used, then it is covered on top with shields, roofing felt or dark film, and it must be ventilated through the sides.
It's OK, if the shelter slightly lets water through, the main thing is that the rains cannot wash the mass through. Manure matures within 1.5 – 2 years. It is possible to determine that the humus is ripe when its volume has completely become free-flowing and acquired a uniform dark color, and its quantity has decreased by 3–4 times relative to the original.
For the humus to ripen As soon as possible, the manure should be kept in a secluded place that will not be blown by northern winds. In this case, it will not freeze for a long time, and the bacteria will continue to work even in winter. In warm weather, the humus should be stirred with a pitchfork once a month, trying to pry it deeper, before slightly moistening it. You can use EM preparations (Siyanie-3, Baikal and others), which are used for ripening composts.
There are several ways to prepare liquid chicken manure fertilizer:
To prepare leaf humus, you need to collect autumn leaves and put them in the compost heap. You can also use boxes or bags for this. Many summer residents add manure or a solution of special bacteria to the leaves, which accelerate the decomposition process. Then the foliage needs to be moistened and covered with film. From time to time the leaves need to be stirred and mixed. Such humus matures in 6–12 months. Ripe humus resembles fresh, loose soil without an unpleasant odor. It must be borne in mind that oak leaves are not used to prepare leaf humus.
This fertilizer is useful for almost all indoor, garden and garden crops. The only exceptions are some ornamental crops that require depleted soil (orchids, desert cacti, plants for alpine slides).
In the spring, humus is added to the soil before digging, and in the fall - after the harvest has been harvested and the area has been cleared. In the fall, humus should be added to the prepared beds (a bucket per 1 m2), two cups of ash, 2 tbsp. l. phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and 1 - 2 tbsp. l. superphosphate. To find out the spring norm, you need to proceed from the needs of the crop. For planting garden strawberries, flowers, roses, vegetables add humus in 2 - 4 buckets per 1 m2.
Humus, which acts as a component of fertile soil for growing seedlings, should be used together with compost, garden soil, and peat. For seedlings of flowers and vegetables, humus is added to the nutrient substrate, approximately ½ of the total volume.
For some annuals (cosmea, ageratum, nasturtium), a moderate dose of fertilizer should be applied, since such plants, with an excess of organic matter, begin to “fatten”, that is, leaves grow to the detriment of flowering.
Humus for strawberries should be applied in the fall after harvest. It is advisable to mulch the fertilizer layer on top with sawdust or straw. Humus is placed in a layer 5 cm thick, and the plants should not come into contact with humus, as they may rot.
For productive crops that have an extended fruiting period (zucchini, pumpkins, cucumbers), humus is applied during spring digging of the soil to a depth of 15 cm. For raspberries, it is laid in the spring as mulch without covering it. For many indoor plants, humus is used as an additive to nutrient soil.
What is the difference between compost and humus? The content and proportions of nutrients in both fertilizers are almost the same. But compost differs from humus in that it does not structure the soil and does not have a long-term positive effect on its fertility. In addition, nutrients from soil fertilized with compost are less readily available to plants. Another important point– when fertilizing with humus, the danger of plant infection is practically zero, since the anaerobic environment created in the ripening mass of humus destroys the germs of pests and weeds.
Thus, humus is a fertilizer, which is used by many gardeners as a top dressing for various plants, as it contains a huge amount of nutrients. It is usually added to the soil to stimulate the growth and development of plants. You can buy it, or you can make it yourself. The use of this fertilizer is justified on any type of soil.
An amazing fact: most advice on caring for and growing vegetables uses the term “ humus” but only half of gardeners and vegetable gardeners (based on a survey conducted by one gardening magazine) can correctly and briefly explain what it is..
Definition and terms:
Humus is the same as rotted (mature) manure. If the meaning of this word is not explained, then it should be understood in this sense. When they write about “leaf humus,” they mean leaf compost (or leaf soil). Nowadays it is no longer customary to call compost humus. But in old books and articles that were unsuccessfully translated or copied from various sources, you can come across such a name. In this case, it is explained which humus (from which it is prepared) is meant.
Ready-to-use humus is a homogeneous, loose, free-flowing brownish mass, without the smell of ammonia and rot (the smell should be earthy, “spring”). Specific gravity – 500-800 kg/cubic. m. One bucket contains approximately 6 kg of humus.
Agronomic properties of humus
Humus is rich in nutrients, absorbs and retains moisture well. Moreover, its particles do not lose elasticity; air gaps remain between them for the roots to breathe. Therefore, humus improves any soil: in sandy soil it retains water and nutrients in the root zone, in heavy clay soil it helps to “fluff” it: it makes it loose, airy, and nutritious.
Using humus as mulch creates special conditions in the top layer of soil: a crust with capillaries does not form on it, which, like a sponge, draws moisture from the soil. Heavy soil does not float.
Earthworms and beneficial bacteria live under the mulch, increasing the efficiency of the roots. The soil underneath cools and heats up more slowly, and the temperature changes smoothly.
This helps plant exotics survive: in the fall they have time to gradually prepare for wintering, and at the end of winter and spring they do not wake up ahead of time and do not risk being hit by returning frosts.
In extreme heat, the soil surface mulched with humus does not burn the root collar of plants. But it is through the site of the burn that pathogens of verticillium, clematis, pepper and other crops usually penetrate.
The nutrients that humus mulch is rich in gradually reach the roots of plants with watering and rain. And finally, humus is indispensable when growing seedlings and plants that require nutrition. As part of the substrate, it is very useful for eggplants, cucumbers and other pumpkin crops, begonias, hibiscus, and pelargonium.
Recently, ready-made humus in bags can be purchased at gardening markets, although at a fairly high price. It is more profitable to buy manure from the farm and prepare the humus yourself.
The literature describes many tricks, without which, according to the authors, it is impossible to prepare the “correct” humus. In reality, everything is not so complicated: the manure is laid out to mature in a heap or in a compost bin. The top is covered with roofing felt, boards, or even a dark film if you use a box that is ventilated through the sides. It’s not scary if the shelter slightly lets water through, the main thing is that the rains do not wash the mass through. Maturation lasts 1.5-2 years. The humus is ripe when it becomes free-flowing throughout its entire volume, of a uniform dark color, and its volume has decreased by 3-4 times compared to the original.
While it’s warm, stir the humus with a fork about once a month, trying to pry it deeper, and before doing this, lightly moisten it.
Place the ripening collection in a secluded place, not blown by northern winds, then it will not freeze for a long time and the bacteria will continue to work even at the beginning of winter.
Use EM preparations (Baikal, Siyanie-3 and others) that accelerate the maturation of composton.
This is a very valuable material; it is useful for all garden, vegetable and indoor crops with almost no restrictions. The only exceptions are some ornamental crops that require depleted soil (plants for “”, desert cacti, orchids). A moderate dose is applied to some annuals (nasturtium, cosmos, eschscholzia): they can “fatten” with an excess of organic matter, that is, grow leaves to the detriment of flowering.
When planting vegetables, flowers, and garden strawberries, humus is added in 2-4 buckets per square meter.
For most indoor plants, it is used as an additive to the nutrient soil, on average about 1/4-1/3 of the total volume.
For seedlings of vegetables and flowers, humus is added to the nutrient substrate on average about 1/2 of the total volume.
You can also read another interesting article about making compost
It is safe to say that the fertility of the soil directly depends on the humus content in it. Most of it is in black soil. For this reason it is black. If a small amount of chernozem is heated on fire, then most of the humus will burn out, and it will immediately lighten.
So, let's try to find out what humus is and how it appears in the soil?
Strictly speaking, there is no secret here. We live in a world that is filled to the limit with microorganisms and bacteria. They are also found in the soil. Over time, plant and organic residues accumulate in it. Microorganisms are used to process them, resulting in the formation of humus.
The composition of humus is quite complex. This product cannot be considered the result of simple rotting of plant and organic residues. Two groups of microorganisms, aerobic and anaerobic, are involved in its formation. The activities of the former are aimed at the complete processing of plant residues, as a result of which the formation of soluble salts occurs. The second microorganisms only partially decompose plant residues. For example, the same peat is formed precisely as a result of the activity of anaerobic bacteria.
The paradox is that humus can form only if two groups of microorganisms act in close symbiosis with each other. Substances that are formed during their activity must come into contact with each other and form new compounds, which will lead to the formation of humus. The individual activity of microorganisms does not lead to the formation of humus.
In order for the soil to contain both types of bacteria, it must be rich in moisture and contain a large amount of air. Only in this case can one expect the formation of a large amount of humus. With a lack of air and a large amount of moisture, anaerobic microorganisms will predominate in it, and, conversely, with a high air content and lack of moisture, aerobic microorganisms will predominate.
Humus is distributed unevenly in the soil. Most of it is in the surface layer, and as you go deeper, the amount of humus decreases. This is due to the fact that with depth the branching of the roots becomes smaller, which means that the volume of the source material for its formation also decreases.
The composition of humus can also be completely different. In forest soil it contains a huge amount of soluble substances, which are easily washed away by rainwater, forming a red coating at the bottom of ravines. On the contrary, chernozem contains more insoluble substances, which give it its black color. In addition, they have a viscous lumpy structure, due to which the chernozem takes on the appearance of a sticky wet mass.
It is humus that makes the soil fertile. It must be remembered that this structure is easily destroyed, for example, by loosening the soil too often, or by excessive application of chemical fertilizers. In everything you need to observe moderation. The basis should be the principle - do no harm.
Many people have to deal with this concept, but not everyone knows what humus is. Translated from Latin, “humus” means “earth”, “soil” and is the main organic substance containing nutrients that plants simply need.
Humic substances belong to a special group of chemical compounds characteristic of the earth's soil cover, that is, they are specific only to the soil. Surely, what humus is has now become clear, but what is it formed from? From the remains of plants, animals and microbes as a result of interaction with various components of the environment.
The chemical composition of humus is quite complex. It is characterized by a dark color, which is absent in plants. Humus contains very valuable humic acid, which contains a lot of carbon (about 60%), oxygen (about 35%), nitrogen (on average 5%), phosphorus, sulfur, iron, and so on. Based on the above, another answer follows to the question of what humus is. Humus is a term that combines a huge complex of chemical substances containing an organic part (humic and fulvic acids), an inorganic component (chemical elements of inorganic origin, or, in other words, minerals that are included in the number of humates and fulvates). But now we’ll talk about this in more detail.
You have already become familiar with the concept of humus; the next open question remains: what is soil humus and how is it formed? Soil humus is nothing more than a product of the vital activity of various organisms; first of all, the process of humus formation is long-term.
Vegetation, metabolic products, animal remains - all this is food for organisms that live in the soil. Some part of all this is amenable to mineralization, and the other part is amenable to biochemical enzymatic decomposition and oxidation (humification), during which the synthesis of organic compounds occurs and humus is formed. Humus predominates in it, as well as humic acids, which are transformed over time, oxidizing as a result to water. It is very important that the paths of humus transformation - mineralization or humification - depend directly on soil and climatic conditions. In warm enough conditions, the oxidation process occurs very quickly, and almost all vegetation litter is mineralized, which prevents humus from accumulating in the soil. In cold climates, the transformation of litter is slightly slower, and its quantity is small, as a result of which the humus content in the soil is low. Temperate climates without waterlogging are optimal for humification.
So, from all of the above we can draw the following conclusions:
Humus actively participates in the soil. It plays the most important role directly in the formation of the soil profile. Humus promotes the gluing of soil particles into aggregates (lumps), creates agronomically valuable structures and physical properties of the soil favorable for plant life. It contains essential plant nutrients and various microelements that become available to plants after the mineralization process.
Humic substances are food for. The intensity of various chemical and biological processes that determine the accumulation of substances necessary for plants depends on the humus content in soils. Humus also helps give the soil a dark color, thereby better absorbing solar energy.
This fertilizer is a complex dynamic complex of organic compounds that are formed during the decomposition of various organic residues.
The composition of soil humus can be divided into a specific part (approximately 90%), consisting of humic substances, and a non-specific part (the rest), consisting of non-humified organic substances. Humic substances in soils, in turn, are represented by:
All the merits of humic substances are still not known, so below are only the main ones, firmly rooted in theory and practice.
Thus, humus is a fertilizer that promotes:
Based on the results of various pharmacological tests carried out to determine what humus is, preparations based on humic substances can be used in modern medicine and veterinary medicine as a nonspecific medicine that helps increase the body’s resistance to the effects of various harmful factors.
Medical medicines based on these humic substances are already commercially available today. They are actively used in the treatment of radiculitis of various forms, diseases of the ears and nose, pharyngitis, rhinitis, arthritis, polyarthritis, arthrosis and many other diseases. The advantage of these drugs is that they are non-toxic.
So the story about what soil humus is, its formation, properties and functions has come to its logical conclusion. The only thing I would like to add is a few words about the mysteries of humic substances. As is known, they do not have a constant chemical composition, they do not have a certain molecular weight and a constant single color. Humic substances are still being studied by chemists, soil scientists, hydrobiologists, doctors, and pharmacists in order to explain all the mysteries stored in them, of which, according to forecasts, many more will be solved.
