For any person, the issue of protecting oneself and loved ones is quite acute. And although the market offers many options for solving it, not every one of them can suit you, and this entails the need to look for ways to resolve it yourself. One of the good options for ensuring your own safety is an electric shocker, which other craftsmen manage to make at home.
A stun gun is a special electrical device used as a self-defense weapon to stop or neutralize an attacking person or animal by delivering a high-power electrical discharge. Such a discharge causes numbness in the aggressor’s muscles and a strong pain effect, which paralyzes the attacker for some time. This device is produced in different shapes, capacities and price categories. Persons who have reached the age of majority are allowed to purchase and carry a stun gun with a power of up to 3 W, without the need to present any additional documents, certificates or permits. More powerful devices are intended for special services.
The most reliable are, naturally, factory-assembled devices, but people who are well versed in radio engineering can try to make a stun gun with their own hands, since there are plenty of manuals and diagrams, and getting the necessary parts is also not difficult.
The main part of the device is a voltage converter made in accordance with the blocking generator circuit. In this case, one field-effect transistor with reverse conductivity of the IRF3705 brand is used (you can take a transistor IRFZ44, IRFZ46, IRFZ48 or IRL3205). It is also necessary to ensure the presence of a 100 Ohm gate resistor with a declared power of 0.5-1 W, high-voltage capacitors with a capacity of 0.1-0.22 μF (for series connection of two 630 V capacitors) and with an operating voltage above 1000 V, a spark gap ( industrial or homemade from two pieces of wire 0.8 mm thick placed one above the other, with a gap of 1 mm), rectifier diode KTs106. If you have all the necessary components, the task of how to make a stun gun will not cause any difficulties for a true craftsman.
To assemble the converter, you need to properly make its main component - the step-up transformer. To do this, take, for example, a core from a switching power supply. Having carefully freed it from the old winding, carefully wind the new one. The primary winding is made with a wire with a diameter of 0.5-0.8 mm, applying 12 turns and moving away from the middle (wind 6 turns, twist the wire, make another 6 turns in the same direction). Then you need to insulate it with transparent tape, making 5 layers of it. A secondary winding is placed on top, making 600 turns with a wire with a diameter of 0.08-0.1 mm, applying two layers of adhesive tape for insulation every 50 turns. This will protect the transformer from breakdowns. Both windings are made strictly in the same direction. For better insulation, you can fill the entire structure with epoxy resin. A wire with stranded insulated wires must be soldered to the terminals from the secondary winding. It is recommended to place the resulting transistor on an aluminum heat sink.
After manufacturing the converter, it is tested by assembling a circuit that does not include the high-voltage part. If the transformer is assembled correctly, the output will be a “burning current”. Then the voltage multiplier is soldered. Capacitors are selected with a voltage of at least 3 kV and a capacity of 4700 pF. The diodes in the multiplier are high-voltage ones, grade KTs106 (these are found in multipliers from old Soviet TVs).
By connecting the multiplier with the converter according to the circuit, you can turn on the resulting device, the arc should be 1-2 cm with the required characteristics and fairly loud clicks with a frequency of 300-350 Hz should be heard.
As a power source, you can use a lithium-ion battery, as in mobile phones (their capacity must be at least 600 mA), or nickel batteries with a voltage of 1.2 V. The capacity of such batteries should be enough for two minutes of continuous operation of the device with output power up to 7 W and voltage across the arresters more than 10 kV.
Mount the circuit in some suitable plastic case, covering the high-voltage section of the circuit with silicone for reliability. You can use a cut fork, nails or screws as bayonets. The circuit must also contain a switch and a non-latching button to prevent accidental switching on. As can be seen from the above, assembling a high-quality, reliable and powerful device requires quite serious skills, therefore, first of all, people versed in radio electronics should think about how to make a stun gun on their own.
If you need a simpler way to assemble a stun gun, you can literally make it from available radio parts. To do this you will need: a regular nine-watt Krona battery, a transformer (it can be taken from the mains adapter or charger), an ebonite rod 30-40 centimeters long. A do-it-yourself stun gun is assembled as follows: two pieces of steel wire about 5 cm long are attached to the end of the ebonite rod using electrical tape, connected by wires to a transformer and a Krona battery. The battery is connected to the two-pin terminal of the transformer (where a current of 6-9 V comes out). A small push-button switch is attached to the other end of the rod, when pressed, a high-voltage arc appears between the steel antennae (it jumps at the moment when the circuit with the battery in the small winding opens, that is, to create a visible arc you need to press the switch 25 times per second ). Despite the high voltage created in this design, the current strength will be very small, so such a stun gun can become more of a means of intimidation than protection.
If you know how to make a stun gun, then a small, low-power intimidation device can be assembled using a simple electric lighter for gas stoves. How to make a mini stun gun using it is described below.
In addition to the electric lighter itself, you will need a metal clip and glue, as well as a soldering iron, and everything you need for soldering. First of all, they disassemble it and cut off the tube using a metal blade, leaving only the handle with two wires sticking out. They are cut with wire cutters to a protruding length of 1-2 cm. Having exposed the wires and treated them with flux, two pieces cut from a metal clip are soldered to them. The antennae are slightly bent with wire cutters and the entire finished structure is glued in front with glue to insulate it. Such a shocker is low-power and is not suitable for serious self-defense.
Knowing the structure of electric lighters and having a little understanding of radio technology, you can understand how to make a stun gun from a lighter. To do this, you need to take four electric lighters (more precisely, high-voltage coils and converter boards), three AA batteries or accumulators, a flashlight body or a tube with a diameter of 25 mm. Craftsmen suggest connecting these parts together, adding arresters and a switch to the circuit, which will allow you to assemble a stun gun with your own hands without much hassle. Each of the transformers is connected to two separate contacts, and the entire contents are placed in a plastic case. It is assumed that with this method of assembly, four flashes should be produced simultaneously on the spark gaps.
To figure out how to make a stun gun with your own hands, you can remember an old unnecessary film camera - a “soap box”. It can be converted into a device that produces one-fourth the energy of a professional shocker. To do this, you need to unscrew the camera, remove the batteries and find a small flash bulb. After this, it is disconnected from the wires, and in place of the flash, two pieces of copper wire - with a thick layer of insulation and 8-10 cm long - are connected to these wires using soldering. You need to make sure that these wires protruding from the camera do not touch. The batteries are placed in place, and after the manipulations have been done, the camera body is insulated with some kind of plastic coating so that only the dischargers in the form of copper antennae and the flash and shutter buttons are visible from it. Now, when releasing the shutter, you can get sparks on the arrester wires.
Thus, there are several ways to make a stun gun at home, it all depends on your knowledge of radio engineering, skill and available source material. When working, it is imperative to observe safety precautions, since the work is mainly associated with high voltage and power electric current.
Several simple options for proven and working circuits of electric lamps made and designed by yourself. Stun guns come in two basic configurations: straight and L-shaped. There is no substantiated evidence as to which form is better. Some prefer L-shaped ones, because they think that with such a shocker it is easier to touch the enemy. Others choose straight ones, as they give maximum freedom of movement, relatively short or long, reminiscent of a police baton.
Each stun gun circuit and its design are examined in detail, and possible ways to upgrade existing devices are described.
It is associated not only with pain from electric shock. The high voltage accumulated in the shocker, when the arc comes into contact with the skin, is converted into alternating electrical voltage with a specially calculated frequency, forcing the muscles in the contact area to contract extremely quickly. This abnormal muscle overactivity causes rapid breakdown of the blood sugar that feeds the muscles. In other words, the muscles in the contact zone lose their functionality for some time. At the same time, the impulses block the activity of the nerve fibers through which the brain controls these muscles.
Among the popular means of self-defense, stun guns are far from in last place, especially in terms of the strength of their psychological and paralytic effect on the bandit. However, normal industrial designs are quite expensive, which pushes radio amateurs to make stun guns with their own hands.
R1 - 2.2kR2 - 91 OmR3 - 10 mOmR4 - 430 OmC1 - 0.1 x 600VC2 and C3 - 470pf x 25kD1 - kd510D2,3,4 - d247
T1 - on a Ш5x5 core with a magnetic permeability of M 2000 NN or a suitable ferrite ring. Windings I and II - 25 turns of 0.25 mm PEV-2 wire each. Winding III contains 1600 turns of PEV-2 wire with a diameter of 0.07 mm.
T2 on a ring K40x25x11 or K38x24x7 made of M2000 NN ferrite with a sawn gap of 0.8 mm. It is possible without a gap on a ring made of pressed permalloy brands MP140, MP160. Winding I - 3 turns of PEV-2 wire with a diameter of 0.5 mm. Winding II - 130 turns of MGTF wire. The terminals of this winding should be spaced as far apart as possible. After winding, the transformer must be impregnated with varnish or paraffin.
Diagram of the stun gun "Thunder"
The operation of the generator is checked by measuring the voltage at points “A”. Then, by pressing a button, a high-voltage discharge appears. The arrester contacts can be of different designs: flat, sharp, etc. The distance between them is no more than 12 mm. 1000 Volts penetrates 0.5 mm of air.
The device is a generator of high-voltage voltage pulses connected to electrodes and placed in a housing made of dielectric material. The generator consists of 2 series-connected voltage converters (Scheme in Fig. 1). The first converter is an asymmetrical multivibrator based on transistors VT1 and VT2. It is turned on by button SB1. The load of transistor VT1 is the primary winding of transformer T1. The pulses taken from its secondary winding are rectified by the diode bridge VD1-VD4 and charge the battery of storage capacitors C2-C6. The voltage of capacitors C2-C6 when the button SB2 is turned on is the supply for the second converter on the trinistor VS2. Charging capacitor C7 through resistor R3 to the switching voltage of the dinistor VS1 leads to the switching off of the trinistor VS2. In this case, the battery of capacitors C2-C6 is discharged onto the primary winding of transformer T2, inducing a high voltage pulse in its secondary winding. Since the discharge is oscillatory in nature, the polarity of the voltage on the battery C2-C6 is reversed, after which it is restored due to redischarge through the primary winding of transformer T2 and diode VD5. When capacitor C7 is recharged again to the switching voltage of the dinistor VD1, the thyristor VS2 is turned on again and the next high voltage pulse is formed at the output electrodes.
All elements are installed on a board made of foiled fiberglass, as shown in Fig. 2. Diodes, resistors and capacitors are installed vertically. The body can be any suitable sized box made of material that does not allow electricity to pass through.
The electrodes are made of steel needles up to 2 cm long - for access to the skin through human clothing or animal fur. The distance between the electrodes is at least 25 mm.
The device does not require adjustment and operates reliably only with correctly wound transformers. Therefore, follow the rules for their manufacture: transformer T1 is made on a ferrite ring of standard size K10 * 6 * 3 or K10 * 6 * 5 from ferrite grade 2000NN, its winding I contains 30 turns of PEV-20.15 mm wire, and winding II - 400 turns PEV-20.1 mm. The voltage on its primary winding should be 60 volts. The T2 transformer is wound on a frame made of ebonite or plexiglass with an internal diameter of 8 mm, an external diameter of 10 mm, a length of 20 mm, and a jaw diameter of 25 mm. The magnetic core is a section of a ferrite rod for a magnetic antenna 20 mm long and 8 mm in diameter.
Winding I contains 20 turns of PESH (PEV-2) wire - 0.2 mm, and winding II - 2600 turns of PEV-2 with a diameter of 0.07-0.1 mm. First, winding II is wound onto the frame, through each layer of which a varnished fabric gasket is placed (otherwise a breakdown may occur between the turns of the secondary winding), and then the primary winding is wound on top of it. The secondary winding leads are carefully insulated and connected to the electrodes.
List of elements: C1 - 0.047 µF; C2...C6 - 200uF*50V; C7 - 3300pF; R1 - 2.7 kOhm; R2 - 270 MOhm; R3 - 1 MOhm; VT1 - K1501; VT2 - K1312; VS1 - KH102B; VS2 - KU111; VD1...VD5 - KD102A; VS1 and VS2 - P2K (independent, fixed).
Application: If there is a perceived threat to your safety or in advance, press the VS1 button, after which the device begins charging, at this time there is no voltage on the electrodes.
After 1-2 minutes, the electric shock will be fully charged and ready for use. The readiness state is maintained for several hours, then the battery gradually discharges.
At a moment when the danger is beyond doubt, you need to touch the attacker's bare skin and press the VS2 button.
Having received a series of high-voltage blows, the attacker is in a state of shock and horror for several minutes, and is incapable of active action, which gives you a chance to either escape or neutralize the attacker.
The Sword-1 self-defense device is used against a hooligan or robber. When turned on, "Sword-1" emits a loud siren sound, generates dazzling flashes of light, and touching it to open areas of the body results in a strong electric shock (but not fatal!).
Description of the circuit diagram: A siren generator is made on the D1 chip, transistors VT1-VT5. The multivibrator on elements D1.1, D1.2 produces rectangular pulses with a period of 2-3 seconds, which, after integration by the chain R2, R5, R6, C2 through resistor R7, modulate the resistance of the E-K transistor VT1, which causes a frequency deviation of the tone multivibrator by elements D1.3, D1.4. The siren signal from the output of element D1.4 goes to the output of a key power amplifier assembled on transistors VT2-VT5 (composite, with a gain of 750).
The voltage converter for powering the flash lamp and electric discharger is a blocking generator with an increased secondary winding, assembled on elements VT6, T1, R12, C4. It converts 3V DC voltage to 400V AC. Diodes VD1 and VD2 rectify this voltage, electric discharge capacitors C6, C7 and flash capacitor C8 are charged. At the same time, the capacitor of the flash ignition circuit C5 is charged. The neon lamp H1 lights up when the flash is ready. When you press button S3, capacitor C5 is discharged through the primary winding of transformer T2, and a voltage pulse of 5-10 kV appears on its secondary winding, igniting the flash lamp VL1 (flash energy 8.5 J).
“Sword-1” is powered by 4 A-316 elements or 4 CPU K-0.4 5 batteries. In this case, the voltage converter is turned on by switch S2, and the siren by S1.
Transformers
T1 - Armor core B18 made of ferrite 2000NM (without gap). First, a step-up winding V-VI is wound onto the frame turn to turn - 1350 turns of PEV-2 wire = 0.07 mm with insulation with paraffin thin paper every 450 turns. A double layer of paraffin paper is laid on top of the step-up winding, then the windings are wound: I-II - 8 turns PEV-2 = 3 mm. III-IV - 6 turns PEV-2 = 0.3 mm. It is permissible to use a B14 core, made of 2000NM ferrites.
T2 - Rod core =2.8mm L=18mm made of 2000NM ferrite. Brushes made of cardboard, textolite, etc. are attached to the core. material, then wrapped in two layers of varnished cloth. First, step-up winding III-IV is wound - 200 turns PELSHO = 0.1 mm (after 100 turns - insulation with two layers of varnished cloth). Then on top of it is the primary winding I-II - 20 turns of wire PEV-2 = 0.3 mm. Pin 4 of the transformer is connected with a wire in good insulation (MGTF, etc.) to the igniting electrode of the flash lamp VL1. When using parts indicated in brackets or other suitable ones, the dimensions of the device may increase.
Most of the Sword-1 parts are mounted on a single-sided printed circuit board (A1) made of foiled glass PCB. Resistors R4, R10, R11 are installed horizontally on the board, all others are installed vertically. Diodes VD1, VD2 are soldered first, since they are located under the horizontal transistor VT6.
Assembled without errors, "Sword-1" does not need adjustment. Before turning on the power, you must carefully check the correct installation. After this, switch S1 supplies power to the siren and checks its operation. By turning off the siren and turning on SA1, make sure that the voltage converter is working (a quiet whistle should appear). Using trimming resistor R15, the indicator lamp lights up when the voltage on capacitor C8 = 340 volts.
Lack of generation or low output voltage indicates incorrect connection of the windings of transformer T1 or an interturn short circuit. In the first case, you need to swap terminals 3 and 4 of the transformer. In the second case, rewind T1.
When the converter is running and capacitor C8 is charged (indicator H1 is lit), pressing button S3 causes flash lamp VL1 to flash. There will be no flash when pins 1 and 2 of transformer T2 are turned back on or when there is an interturn short circuit. The leads should be swapped, and if this does not help, the transformer should be rewinded.
Structurally, "Sword-1" is made of impact-resistant polystyrene with dimensions of 114x88x34 mm. At the end of the housing there is a reflector window for the VL1 flash lamp and spark gap electrodes (see figure). The arrester consists of an insulating base (plexiglass, polystyrene) 28 mm high and two metal electrodes XS1 and XS2 protruding 3 mm above it. The distance between the electrodes is 10 mm. Switches S1, S2 and button S3 are located on the side surface of the case, and the indicator eye H1 is also located there. The holes for sound from the BA1 speaker are covered with a decorative grille.
The "Sword" device is a variant of the "Sword-1" device and differs from the latter in the absence of a siren generator, power supply from 2 A316 elements and smaller dimensions. The schematic diagram of the "Sword" is shown in Fig. 2. The basis of the circuit is a voltage converter, completely identical to the Sword-1 converter. Those “Sword” elements, the designations of which in the diagram do not coincide with the “Sword-1” diagram, are given in the “Details” section in square brackets, before the designation of the “Sword-1” elements. For example, VT6 KT863A (or KT829).
Here it is an element of the “Sword” circuit, and VT6 is an element of the “Sword-1” circuit.
The Sword parts are mounted on a printed circuit board. The batteries are located on the board between contact plates made of springy metal.
The device body has dimensions of 98x62x28 mm. Location of electrodes, buttons, etc. similar to the location on "Sword-1".
Resistors (MLT-0.125) R1, R5, R7 - 100 Kom; R2 - 200 Kom; R3, R4 - 3.3 Kom; R6, R9 - 56 Kom; R8, R16 - 1.0 Mom; R10, R11 - 3.3 Kom; R12 - 300 ohm; R13 - 240 Kom; R14 - 510 Com.
Construction resistor R15 - SPZ-220 1.0 Mom.
Indicator H1 - IN-35 (any neon).
Dynamic head BA1 - 1GDSH-6 (any with R=4-8 ohms, power > 0.5 W).
Pulse lamp VL1 - FP2-0.015 with reflector. (or IFK-120).
Capacitors C1, C2 - K50-6 16V 1.0 MKf; C3 - KT-1 2200 Pf; C4 - K50-1 50V 1 MKF; C5 - K73-24 250V 0.068 MKF; C6, C7 - K50-35 160V 22 MF; C8 - K50-1.7 400V 150 MF.
Chip D1 - K561LA7 (or K561LE5).
Diodes VD1, VD2 - KD105V (or KTs111A).
Transistors VT1 - KT315G; VT2, VT4 - KT973A; VT3, VT5 - KT972A; VT6 - KT863A (or KT829A).
Schematic diagram. The siren generator is assembled on the DD1 chip. The generation frequency of the generator on DD1.3-DD1.4 changes smoothly. This change is set by the generator on DD1.1-DD1.2, VT1:VT4 - power amplifier. A converter for powering the flash lamp is assembled using transistors VT5-VT6. The generation frequency is about 15 kHz. VD1-VD2 - high voltage rectifier: C6 - storage capacitor. The voltage on it after charging is about 380 Volts.
Construction and details.
KD212A diodes can be replaced with KD226.
Instead of K561LA7, you can use 564LA7, K561LN2 microcircuits, but with a change in the printed circuit board design.
KT361G can be replaced with KT3107 with any letter indices.
KT315G can be replaced with KT342, KT3102 with any letter indices.
Instead of 0.5 GDSh-1, you can install any one with a winding resistance of 4:8 Ohm; it is advisable to choose small-sized ones with higher efficiency.
MP7 buttons or similar.
FP lamp - 0.015 - from the camera kit<Эликон>; you can use IFK80, IFK120, but they have large dimensions.
C1, C2 - brand K53-1, C3-C5 - brand KM-5 or KM-6, C7 - brand K73-17, C6 - brand K50-17-150.0 uF x 400 V. C5 is soldered to pin R7.
Transformer Tr1 is made on an armored ferrite core M2000NM with an outer diameter of 22 mm, an inner diameter of 9 mm and a height of 14 mm, the number of winding turns: I - 2x2 turns PEV-2-0.15; II - 2x8 turns PEV-2-0.3; III - 500 turns PEV-2-0.15. The order of winding the windings is III - II - I.
Tr2 is made on a core with a diameter of 3 mm, a length of 10 mm from the contour coils of the radio receiver: I winding - 10 turns PEV-2-0.2; II - 600 turns PEV-2-0.06. The order of winding the windings is II - I. All windings of the transformer are insulated with a layer of varnished cloth.
The length of the pin part of the arrester is about 20 mm, and the distance between the pins is the same.
Transformers VT5-VT6 are mounted on a 15x15x2 copper plate.
A printed circuit board with parts is installed in a homemade polystyrene case.
Buttons Kn1:Kn3 are fixed in a convenient place on the body.
1. By pressing the Kn1 button, turn on the siren, which sounds at a sufficient volume.
2. By pressing the Kn2 button and holding it pressed for several seconds, the storage capacitor is charged, after which you can:
a - by pressing the Kn3 button, get a powerful flash of light. b - by touching the bare electrodes<Р>to the body of the bully to cause him an electric shock until he loses consciousness.
The scheme, as a rule, starts working immediately. The only operation that may be required is the selection of resistors R7, R8. At the same time, a minimum charging time for capacitor C6 is achieved at an acceptable current consumption, which is within 1 A.
The device consumes significant current during operation, so after using it you need to check the batteries and, if necessary, replace them.
It is necessary to remember to observe safety measures when assembling and operating the device - there is a high potential at the output electrodes of the spark gap.
The high-voltage generator (VG) consists of a powerful push-pull VT1, VT2 self-oscillating converter (AG) 9-400 V; rectifier VD3-VD7; storage capacitor C; discharge pulse former on a unijunction transistor VT3; switch VS n high-voltage pulse transformers T2a, T2b.
The pocket version of the VG is assembled on two printed circuit boards, placed one above the other with the components facing inward. T1 is made on the M1500NMZ 28x16x9 ring. Winding W2 is wound first (400 turns D 0.01) and carefully insulated. Then windings W1a, W1b (10 turns D 0.5) and the base winding Wb (5 turns D 0.01) are wound. T2a (T2b) is made on a 400NN ferrite rod, 8-10 cm long, D 0.8 cm. The rod is pre-insulated, winding W2a (W2b) is wound on top, containing 800-1000 turns D 0.01 and carefully insulated. Windings W1a and W1b (10 turns D 1.0 each) are wound in antiphase. To prevent electrical breakdown, high-voltage transformers are filled with epoxy resin!
Parameter optimization:
The charging power of capacitor C is limited by the maximum power developed (short-term!) by the power supply P = U1I1 (U1=9B, I1=1A), the maximum permissible average current VD3-VD7 I2=CU2/2Tp and VT1-VT2 I1=N1I2. The energy accumulated at the output of the AP E = CU22/2 is determined by the capacitance C (1-10 μF) with acceptable dimensions and operating voltage U2 = N1U1, N1 = W2/W1.
The discharge pulse period Tr = RpCp must be greater than the charge constant Тз = RC.
R limits the AP pulse current I2u = U2/R, I1u = N1I2u.
The voltage of the high-voltage pulse is determined by the ratio of turns T2a (T2b) Uвu = 2n2U2, n2 = w2/w1.
The smallest number of turns w1 is limited by the maximum pulse current VS Ii = U2(2G/L)1/2,
L - inductance w1a (w1b), the highest - electrical strength T2a, T2b (50 V per turn).
The peak discharge power depends on the speed of the VS.
The modes of powerful elements are close to critical. Therefore, the operating time of the VG should be limited. It is allowed to turn on the VG without load (discharge in the air) for no more than 1-3 seconds. The operation of VS and VT3 is first checked with the AP turned off by applying +9V to the VD7 anode. To check the AP, T2a and T2b are replaced with a 20-100 Ohm resistor of sufficient power. If there is no generation, it is necessary to swap the terminals of the winding Wb. You can limit the current consumption of the AP by reducing Wb by selecting R1, R2. A correctly assembled VG must necessarily pierce the internal interelectrode gap of 1.5-2.5 cm.
Adequate precautions must be taken when using VG. High-voltage discharge current pulses through the myelin sheath of the nerve fibers of the skin tissue can be transmitted to the muscles, causing tonic convulsions and spasms. Thanks to synapses, nervous excitation covers other muscle groups, developing reflex shock and functional paralysis. According to U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission sad consequences - flutter and fibrillation of the ventricles with subsequent transition to asystole, ending terminal states - are observed with a discharge with an energy of 10 J. According to unverified information, a 5-second exposure to a high-voltage discharge with an energy of 0.5 J causes total immobilization. Restoration of full muscle control occurs no earlier than after 15 minutes.
Attention: Abroad, similar devices are officially classified as firearms by the Bureau of Tobacco and Firearm.
The high-voltage transformer is wound on a rod from the ferrite antenna of the transistor receiver. The primary winding contains 5+5 turns of PEV-2 wire 0.2-0.3 mm. The secondary winding is wound turn to turn with insulation of each layer (1 turn per 1 volt), 2500–3500 turns.
R1, R2 – 8-12 kOhm
C1, C2 – 20-60 nF
C3 – 180 pF
C4, C5 – 3300 pF – 3.3 kV
D1, D2 – CC 106V
T1, T2 – KT 837
This device is intended for laboratory demonstration testing only. The company is not responsible for any use of this device.
A limited deterrent effect is achieved by exposure to powerful ultrasonic radiation. At high intensities, ultrasonic vibrations produce an extremely unpleasant, irritating and painful effect on most people, causing severe headaches, disorientation, intracranial pain, paranoia, nausea, indigestion, and a feeling of complete discomfort.
The ultrasonic frequency generator is made on D2. Multivibrator D1 generates a triangular signal that controls the frequency swing of D2. The modulation frequency of 6-9 Hz lies in the area of resonances of internal organs.
D1, D2 - KR1006VI1; VD1, VD2 - KD209; VT1 - KT3107; VT2 - KT827; VT3 - KT805; R12 - 10 Ohm;
T1 is made on a ferrite ring M1500NMZ 28x16x9, windings n1, n2 each contain 50 turns D 0.5.
Disable the emitter; disconnect resistor R10 from capacitor C1; set trimmer resistor R9 to pin. 3 D2 frequency 17-20 kHz. Use resistor R8 to set the required modulation frequency (pin 3 D1). The modulation frequency can be reduced to 1 Hz by increasing the capacitance of capacitor C4 to 10 μF; Connect R10 to C1; Connect the emitter. Transistor VT2 (VT3) is installed on a powerful radiator.
As an emitter, it is best to use a specialized piezoceramic head BA, imported or domestic, which provides a sound intensity level of 110 dB at a nominal supply voltage of 12 V: You can use several powerful high-frequency dynamic heads (speakers) BA1...BAN, connected in parallel. To select a head based on the required ultrasound intensity and operating distance, the following technique is proposed.
The average electrical power supplied to the speaker Рср = Е2 / 2R, W, should not exceed the maximum (nameplate) power of the head Рmax, W; E - signal amplitude at the head (meander), V; R - electrical resistance of the head, Ohm. In this case, the effectively supplied electrical power for the radiation of the first harmonic is P1 = 0.4 Рср, W; sound pressure Рзв1 = SдP11/2/d, Pa; d - distance from the center of the head, m; Sd = S0 10(LSd/20) Pa W-1/2; LSd - level of characteristic sensitivity of the head (certificate value), dB; S0 = 2 10-5 Pa W-1/2. As a result, sound intensity I = Npsv12 / 2sv, W/m2; N - number of parallel connected heads, s = 1.293 kg/m3 - air density; v = 331 m/s - speed of sound in air. Sound intensity level L1 = 10 lg (I/I0), dB, I0 = 10-12 I m/m2.
The pain threshold level is considered to be 120 dB, rupture of the eardrum occurs at an intensity level of 150 dB, destruction of the ear at 160 dB (180 dB burns through paper). Similar foreign products emit ultrasound with a level of 105-130 dB at a distance of 1 m.
When using dynamic drivers, it may be necessary to increase the supply voltage to achieve the required intensity level. With an appropriate radiator (needle-shaped with an overall area of 2 dm2), the KT827 transistor (metal housing) allows the parallel connection of eight dynamic heads with a coil resistance of 8 0 m each. 3GDV-1; 6GDV-4; 10GI-1-8.
Different people tolerate ultrasound differently. Young people are most sensitive to ultrasound. It’s a matter of taste if you prefer powerful sound radiation instead of ultrasound. To do this, it is necessary to increase the capacity of C2 tenfold. If desired, you can disable frequency modulation by disconnecting R10 from C1.
With increasing frequency, the radiation efficiency of some types of modern piezo emitters increases sharply. With continuous operation for more than 10 minutes, overheating and destruction of the piezocrystal is possible. Therefore, it is recommended to select a supply voltage lower than the nominal one. The required level of sound intensity is achieved by turning on several emitters.
Ultrasonic emitters have a narrow radiation pattern. When using an actuator to protect large premises, the emitter is aimed in the direction of the intended intrusion.
The device is designed for active self-defense by exposing an attacker to a high-voltage electric current. The circuit makes it possible to obtain voltages of up to 80,000 V at the output contacts, which leads to air breakdown and the formation of an electric arc (spark discharge) between the contact electrodes. Since a limited current flows when touching the electrodes, there is no threat to human life.
Due to its small size, an electroshock device can be used as an individual security device or work as part of a security system for the active protection of a metal object (safe, metal door, door lock, etc.). In addition, the design is so simple that it does not require the use of industrial equipment for manufacturing - everything can be easily done at home.
In the device diagram, Fig. 1. A pulse voltage converter is assembled on transistor VT1 and transformer T1. The self-oscillator operates at a frequency of 30 kHz. and in the secondary winding (3) of transformer T1, after rectification by diodes on capacitor C4, a constant voltage of about 800...1000 V is released. The second transformer (T2) allows you to further increase the voltage to the desired value. It works in pulse mode. This is ensured by adjusting the gap in the spark gap F1 so that air breakdown occurs at a voltage of 600...750 V. As soon as the voltage on capacitor C4 (during the charging process reaches this value), the discharge of the capacitor passes through F1 and the primary winding T2.
The energy accumulated on capacitor C4 (transmitted to the secondary winding of the transformer) is determined from the expression:
W = 0.5C x Uc2 = 0.5 x 0.25 x 10-6 x 7002 = 0.061 [J]
where, Uc is the voltage across the capacitor [V];
C is the capacitance of capacitor C4 [F].
Similar industrial devices have approximately the same charge energy or slightly less.
The circuit is powered by four D-0.26 type batteries and consumes a current of no more than 100 mA.
The circuit elements highlighted in dotted lines are a transformerless charger from a 220 V network. To connect the recharging mode, a cord with two corresponding plugs is used. The HL1 LED is an indicator of the presence of voltage in the network, and the VD3 diode prevents the batteries from being discharged through the charger circuits if it is not connected to the network.
The circuit uses the following parts: MLT resistors, capacitors C1 type K73-17V for 400 V, C2 - K50-16 for 25 V. C3 - K10-17, C4 - MBM for 750 V or type K42U-2 for 630 V. High-voltage capacitor (C4) it is not recommended to use other types, since it has to work in a harsh mode (discharge with almost a short circuit), which only these series can withstand for a long time.
Diode bridge VD1 can be replaced with four KD102B diodes, and VD4 and VD5 - with six KD102B diodes connected in series.
Switch SA1 type PD9-1 or PD9-2.
Transformers are homemade and winding in them begins with the secondary winding. The manufacturing process will require precision and a winding device.
Transformer T1 is made on a dielectric frame inserted into the B26 armor core, Fig. 2, made of M2000NM1 (M1500NM1) ferrite. It contains winding I - 6 turns; II - 20 turns with PELSHO wire with a diameter of 0.18 mm (0.12...0.23 mm), in winding III - 1800 turns with PEL wire with a diameter of 0.1 mm. When winding the 3rd winding, it is necessary to lay capacitor dielectric paper every 400 turns, and impregnate the layers with capacitor or transformer oil. After winding the coil, we insert it into the ferrite cups and glue the joint (after making sure that it works). The coil terminals are filled with heated paraffin or wax.
When installing the circuit, it is necessary to observe the phase polarity of the transformer windings indicated on the circuit.
The high-voltage transformer T2 is made on plates of transformer iron assembled in a package, Fig. 3. Since the magnetic field in the coil is not closed, the design eliminates magnetization of the core. Winding is carried out turn to turn (the secondary winding is wound first) II - 1800...2000 turns with PEL wire with a diameter of 0.08...0.12 mm (in four layers), I - 20 turns with a diameter of 0.35 mm. It is better to make interlayer insulation from several turns of thin (0.1 mm) fluoroplastic tape, but capacitor paper is also suitable - it can be obtained from high-voltage non-polar capacitors. After winding the windings, the transformer is filled with epoxy glue. Before pouring, it is advisable to add a few drops of condenser oil (plasticizer) to the glue and mix well. In this case, there should be no air bubbles in the glue filling mixture. And for ease of filling, you will need to make a cardboard frame (dimensions 55x23x20 mm) according to the dimensions of the transformer, where the sealing is performed. A transformer made in this way provides a voltage amplitude of more than 90,000 V in the secondary winding, but it is not recommended to turn it on without protective spark gap F2, since at such a voltage a breakdown inside the coil is possible.
Any VD3 diode with the following parameters:
- reverse voltage > 1500 V
- leakage current< 10-15 мкА
- forward current > 300 mA
The most suitable parameters: two KD226D diodes connected in series.
Transformer data:
T1 - iron of standard size 20x16x5 (ferrum brand M2000mm W7x7 is possible)
Windings:
I - 28 turns 0.3 mm
II - 1500 turns 0.1 mm
III - 38 turns 0.5 mm
T2 - ferrite core 2000-3000 nm (a piece from a horizontal scanning transformer of a television (TVS), or, in extreme cases, a piece of a rod from a magnetic antenna of a radio receiver).
I - 40 turns 0.5 mm
II - 3000 turns 0.08 - 0.15 mm
This transformer is the most important part of the shocker. The procedure for its manufacture is as follows: the ferrite rod is insulated with two layers of fluoroplastic film (FUM) or fiberglass. After this, winding begins. The turns are laid in hundreds so that turns from adjacent hundreds do not fall on each other: 1000 turns (10 by 100) are wound in one layer, then impregnated with epoxy resin, two layers of fluoroplastic film or varnished cloth are wound and the next layer of wire (1000 turns) is wound on top. in the same way as the first time; insulate again and wind the third layer. As a result, the coil leads are obtained from different sides of the ferrite rod.
Capacitor C2 must withstand a voltage of 1500 V (in extreme cases 1000 V), preferably with as little leakage current as possible. The K arrester consists of two crossed brass plates 1-2 mm wide with a gap between the plates of 1 mm: to provide a discharge of 1 kV (kilovolt).
Setting: First, the converter is assembled with transformer T1 (parts are not connected to winding II) and power is supplied. You should hear a whistle with a frequency of about 5 kHz. Then they bring the terminals of winding II of the transformer one to one (with a small gap of about 1 mm). An electric arc should appear. If you put a piece of paper between these terminals, it will light up. This work must be done carefully, since the voltage on this winding is up to 1.5 kV. If the whistle is not heard in the transformer, then swap the terminals of winding III at T1. After this, connect a diode and capacitor to winding II T1. Turn the power back on. After a few seconds, turn off. Now, using a well-insulated screwdriver, short-circuit the leads of capacitor C2. There should be a loud discharge. This means the converter is working fine. If not, then swap the terminals of winding II T1. After this, you can assemble the entire circuit. During normal operation, the output discharge reaches a length of 30 mm. With resistor R1 = 2...10 Ohms, you can increase the power of the device (by decreasing this resistor) or decrease it (by increasing its resistance). The battery used is a Krona type battery (preferably imported), which has a large capacity and provides a current of up to 3 A in short-term mode.
Transformer T1 is wound on ferrite M2000NM-1 of standard size Ш7х7,
Windings: I - 28 turns 0.35 mm.
II - 38 turns 0.5 mm.
III - 1200 turns 0.12 mm.
Transformer T2 on a rod 8 mm and 50 mm long.
I - 25 turns 0.8 mm.
II - 3000 turns 0.12 mm.
Capacitors C2, C3 must withstand voltages up to 600 V.
A single-ended voltage converter is assembled on transistor VT1, which is rectified by diode VD1 and charges capacitors C2 and C3. As soon as the voltage on C3 reaches the operating threshold of dinistor VS1, it opens and opens thyristor VS2. In this case, capacitor C2 is discharged through the primary winding of high-voltage transformer T2. A high voltage pulse occurs on its secondary winding. So the process is repeated with a frequency of 5-10 Hz. Diode VD2 serves to protect thyristor VS2 from breakdown.
The setting consists of selecting resistor R1 to achieve the optimal ratio between current consumption and converter power. By replacing the VS1 dinistor with another one, with a higher or lower operating voltage, you can adjust the frequency of high-voltage discharges.
Production - Korea.
Output voltage - 75 kV.
Power - 6 V.
Weight - 380 g.
The master oscillator is assembled on transistor VT1.
Transformer T1 data:
- ferrum core M2000 20x30 mm;
I - 16 turns 0.35 mm, tap from the 8th turn
II - 500 turns 0.12 mm.
Transformer T2 data:
I - 10 turns 0.8 mm.
II - 2800 turns 0.012 mm.
Transformer T2 is wound in five layers of 560 turns per layer. Although instead of this transformer you can take an ignition coil from a car. The transformer is the most important part of the shocker. The procedure for its manufacture is as follows: the ferrite rod is insulated with two layers of fluoroplastic film (FUM) or fiberglass. After this, winding begins. The turns are laid in hundreds so that turns from adjacent hundreds do not fall on each other: 1000 turns (10 by 100) are wound in one layer, then impregnated with epoxy resin, two layers of fluoroplastic film or varnished cloth are wound and the next layer of wire (1000 turns) is wound on top. in the same way as the first time; insulate again and wind the third layer. As a result, the coil leads are obtained from different sides of the ferrite rod.
Next comes impregnation with epoxy again, three layers of insulation, and 40 turns of 0.5-0.8 mm wire are wound on top. This transformer can only be turned on after the epoxy resin has cured. Do not forget about this, because it will be “pierced” by high voltage.
The setting consists of selecting R2 until the voltage on C4 is 500 Volts, with dinistors VD2, VD3 turned off. When you press the button, the blocking generator starts working, and a voltage appears at the output of T1, which reaches 600 V. Through VD1, C4 begins to charge, and as soon as the voltage on it reaches the threshold of the dinistors, they open, the current in the primary circuit reaches 2A, the voltage on C4 drops sharply, the dinistors close and the process repeats with a frequency of 10-15 Hz.
The basis of the device is a DC-DC converter (Fig. 1). At the output of the device, I used a multiplier using KTs-106 diodes and 220 pF x 10 kV capacitors. Power is supplied by 10 D-0.55 batteries. With smaller ones, the result is slightly worse. You can also use Krona or Corundum batteries. It is important to have 9-12 volts.
I - 2 x 14 dia. 0.5-0.8 mm.
II - 2 x 6 dia. 0.5-0.8 mm.
III - 5-8 thousand dia. 0.15-0.25 mm.
Batteries are convenient only because they can be charged.
A very important element is the transformer, which I made from a ferrite core (ferrite rod from a radio receiver with a diameter of 8 mm), but the transformer from ferrite from a TVS worked more efficiently - I made a U-shaped bar from a U-shaped one.
I took the rules for winding a high-voltage winding from ("Electric Match") - I laid insulation every thousand turns. For interturn insulation I used FUM (fluoroplastic) tape. In my opinion, other materials are less reliable. While experimenting, I tried electrical tape, mica, and used PELSHO wire. The transformer did not last long - the windings were pierced.
The case was made from a plastic box of suitable dimensions - plastic packaging from an electric soldering iron. Original dimensions: 190 x 50 x 40 mm (see Fig. 2).
In the case, I made plastic partitions between the transformer and the multiplier, as well as between the electrodes on the solder side - precautions to avoid the passage of a spark inside the circuit (case), which also protects the transformer. On the outside, under the electrodes, I placed small “antennae” made of brass to reduce the distance between the electrodes - a discharge is formed between them. In my design, the distance between the electrodes is 30 mm, and the length of the crown is 20 mm. A spark is formed without a “whisker” - between the electrodes, but there is a danger of breakdown of the transformer and its formation inside the housing. I spotted the idea of a “mustache” on “branded” models.
To avoid self-switching on while wearing, it is more advisable to use a slide-type switch.
I would like to warn radio amateurs about the need for careful handling of the product, both during the design and adjustment period, and with the finished device. Remember that it is directed against a bully, a criminal, but, at the same time, against a person. Exceeding the limits of necessary defense is punishable by law.
The basis of the device is a DC-DC converter. It is made according to the circuit of a push-pull pulse generator using transistors VT1 and VT2. It is loaded with the primary winding of the transformer. The secondary one serves for feedback. Tertiary - increasing. When you press the KH1 button, a constant voltage of 400V appears on capacitor C2. The role of a voltage multiplier is performed by the ignition coil from the Moskvich-412 car.
When you press the button, voltage is supplied to the generator, and a high alternating voltage is induced in its output winding, which is converted by diode VD1 into an increasing constant voltage on C2. As soon as C2 is charged to 300V, the dinistors VD2 and VD3 open and a current pulse appears in the primary winding of the ignition coil, as a result in the secondary there will be a high voltage pulse with an amplitude of several tens of kilovolts. The use of an ignition coil is due to its reliability, and in this case there is no need for labor-intensive winding of a homemade coil. But the diode multiplier is not very reliable. Transformer Tr1 is wound on a ferite ring with an outer diameter of 28 mm. Its primary winding contains 30 turns of PEV 0.41 with a tap from the middle. Secondary - 12 turns with a tap from the middle of the same wire. Tertiary - 800 turns of PEV 0.16 wire. The rules for winding such a transformer are known
This device can be used to protect against attacks by wild animals (and not only animals). Most of these devices are based on a pulse generator and a high-voltage transformer with a homemade coil, which is not easy to manufacture or durable.
This device simulates the ignition system of a car. An automobile ignition coil, a nine-volt battery of six A373 cells, and a breaker with a capacitor on an electromagnetic relay are used. The operation of the chopper is controlled by a multivibrator on a DI chip and a switch on transistor VT1. The entire device is mounted in a plastic pipe about 500 mm long and the diameter is the same as the ignition coil. The coil is located at the working end (with two pins from a 220V plug and discharge petals between them.), and the battery is on the opposite side of the pipe, with an electronic unit between them. Turning on is a button installed between the battery elements. The ignition coil can be from any car, the electromagnetic relay can also be from a car, for example, a sound signal relay from a VAZ 08 or Moskvich 2141.
Attention: Be careful when operating the devices; the voltage on the electrodes remains for 20-40 seconds after switching off.
A set of fresh A316 elements is enough for 20-30 starts of the device for 0.5-1 minutes each. Replace items promptly. In case of danger, turn on the voltage converter. After 2-3 seconds, the voltage on the electrodes will reach 300 V. You should press the flash button no earlier than the indicator lights up (5-12 seconds after turning on the converter). Use the flash from a distance of no more than 1.5 meters, pointing the lamp at the attacker’s eyes. Immediately after the flash, you can deliver an electric shock.
This was in 1913. An eleven-year-old girl, a boarder at the Moscow Rzhev Gymnasium, pestered her uncle with a request to show him what was written on the medallion that he always carried with him on his chest. The uncle took off the medallion and handed it to the girl. The girl opened the lid, but nothing was written there. In addition to 5 note lines and four notes: G-sharp - B - F-sharp - E. The girl paused for a moment, and then cheerfully shouted: “Uncle.” I know what is written here. The notes on the medallion mean: “I love you.” And here the question arises. Can you imagine how this girl was taught if she, seeing four notes, sang them to herself, and after singing, she recognized the beginning of Lensky’s arioso from Tchaikovsky’s opera “Eugene Onegin.” It turned out that this medallion, such an original declaration of love, was once received by the girl’s uncle as a gift from his bride before their wedding. But think about it, the girl is only 11 years old! How did they manage to teach her like that? And not in a special music school or in a music college, but in a normal Russian gymnasium, and even in the elementary grades. Question: how was this girl taught? – I have already asked, now I will ask another question, the answer to which goes beyond discussions about the level of education only, but concerns issues of the gene pool. How should a boy be taught so that he will someday approach such a girl and talk to her, interest her as a worthy interlocutor, as a person, and eventually win her heart? Having taught the girl at this level, she was, as it were, inoculated against lack of spirituality, against that stream of primitive monotony, which I conventionally call “disco.” No matter what boy approaches this girl. But even if he approaches, he is unlikely to find mutual understanding... Thus, we are talking about the level of contact, the level of spiritual and cultural correspondence. Consequently, when teaching a girl art, music, poetry, already in the lower grades of a Russian gymnasium, nurturing (or, better said, forming) a spiritual need, we thought about the gene pool, about the intellectual society of the future. But did there exist a boy in Russian society - a worthy partner for our little schoolgirl? Of course yes! You didn't think about it. why did all the officers of the tsarist army learn to play the piano? Is this really necessary for combat training? For combat, perhaps not, but for the gene pool - of course, yes!!! Think about it, what kind of image is this – an officer playing the piano? Yes, this is a symbol of male harmony - a combination of officers and music. On the one hand, the officer is a defender, a warrior, and on the other, a subtle interpreter of the music of Tchaikovsky and Chopin... The high quality of humanitarian education in Russia, from the 20s of the 19th century to the beginning of the 20s of the 20th century, gave rise to an incredible need for culture and prepared a cultural explosion, the like of which, I think, the history of mankind has never known before... M. Kazinik “Secrets of geniuses”
The problem of ensuring the safety and protection of themselves and their loved ones from attacks on life or property worries every person. There are many methods and means for self-defense, but not all of them are available for purchase and use.
The best weapon for protection and self-defense is considered to be electric shock, which does not require a license or registration with the Ministry of Internal Affairs. Anyone can purchase a stun gun upon reaching the age of 18, and thanks to its compact size and light weight, the stun gun can be carried in a pocket or in a woman’s purse.
A typical stun gun consists of several components - a converter (1), a capacitor (2), a spark gap (3) and a transformer (4). You can see all this in the picture below. It also works in a simple way. The capacitor is periodically discharged into the transformer, producing a spark discharge at its output. It would seem very simple, but as practice has shown, there is a hidden trick here (© fulminat) and it is hidden precisely in this very transformer. At home, it is almost impossible to make sure that it transmits the impulse correctly and is sufficiently effective; this requires special materials, equipment, and most importantly, calculations that are kept a big secret - you will not find anything on this topic on the Internet. In addition, the transformer has purely design limitations that do not allow the powerful single pulses that we need to be transmitted through it.
We decided to cheat and came up with how to make a stun gun with your own hands is 3 times easier while maintaining all power. The action occurs as follows: the igniting capacitor works on the spark gap-transformer system in the same way as a stun gun, as a result of which a high-voltage pulse appears at its output, penetrating several centimeters of air. And at this moment the main, combat capacitor comes into play, which directly hits with all its joules through the formed ionized channel. The point here is that at the moment of formation of an electric discharge, a conducting channel appears, which essentially replaces a piece of wire. Thus, using high voltage, we supply a charge to the object with virtually no losses, which allows us to reduce the dimensions and the actual power of the device necessary to achieve the wild anger of its action.
Let's start making the shocker with the most complex part - transformers. As practice has shown, difficulties with repeating shockers usually lie in winding - during the process, many people lose their nerve and the structure is subject to premature breaking with a hammer :-D Therefore, we followed the path of industry, where, as is well known, they proceed from what is easier to make in large quantities and without problems. In this case, the process becomes almost entertainment, but do not forget about attentiveness - the transformer does not cease to be the most important part of the device.
CONVERTER TRANSFORMER
You will need a B22 armor core made of 2000NM ferrite. Let me explain, armored does not mean bulletproof :-) but simply a structure closed on all sides in which only holes are left for wires. It consists of two small cups between which there is a bobbin, almost like in a sewing machine :-)
You just need to wind it not with threads, but with a thin enameled wire with a diameter of about 0.1 mm, it can be taken from a Chinese alarm clock. We take this wire and wind it on the bobbin, not counting the turns, until there is about 1.5mm of free space left.
For the best result, you need to wrap it in layers, laying thin electrical tape between them. This way you should have 5-6 layers. If you are lucky enough to get a PELSHO wire, just wind it loosely, without any insulation, periodically dripping a little machine oil. It is useful to attach thin stranded leads to the ends of the wire for greater reliability.
Next, we insulate it all in 1-2 layers of electrical tape and wind 6 turns of thicker wire, something in the region of 0.7-0.9 mm, with a tap from the middle, i.e. on the 3rd turn we stop the process and make a retraction (twisting), then we wind the remaining 3 turns. It wouldn’t hurt to fix all this with superglue or something else. At the end, we glue the cups together, or simply wrap them with electrical tape if we are not sure about the quality of the winding.
OUTPUT TRANSFORMER
We've trained and that's enough. Now the really tricky part. Although, looking ahead, I will say that compared to what I had to do before, THIS is just entertainment;-) Because winding a traditional layer transformer at home and the first time, and even to make it work, WILL NOT work. Instead of layers, our transformer will have sections.
First you need to get a polypropylene tube with a diameter of 20mm. They are sold in plumbing stores as a replacement for regular water pipes. It looks like a white taka with a thick wall, pure plastic. There is a very similar one, but metal-plastic will not work. We need a piece only 5-6cm in length.
Through a complex process, this piece must become a sectional frame. This is done in the following way - we take a drill into which we clamp a drill or bolt close in diameter to fit into the tube, wrap electrical tape around it to ensure that the tube sits tightly and evenly. Next, we take a cutter that can be made from a steel plate, emery cloth, etc., and begin to make grooves, trying to figure out how to avoid cutting through the pipe. The result should be sections approximately 2x2 mm, i.e. 2 mm deep and wide. To make them smoother after sharpening, you can sharpen them a little with a needle file. Then we take a paper knife and make a 2-3mm wide cut along the entire frame, watch carefully because You can cut through the pipe wall, which may require rework. This completes the preparation.
Because then the fun begins. This time we need a wire with a diameter of about 0.2 mm. It can be used in a power supply, starters, etc.. This wire needs to be wound around all sections of our frame, without being too zealous, so that the wire does not extend beyond the section, or better yet, a little short. Before winding, a small stranded wire is again soldered to the beginning of the wire, which must be firmly fixed with glue so that it does not come off if something happens. We do not connect the end of the wire to anything yet.
Now we need to find a ferrite rod with a diameter of about 10 mm and a length of about 50. We need a 2000NM ferrite; a horizontal scan transformer from a domestic TV is suitable for these purposes. We need to remove everything unnecessary from it. Then carefully split it as shown in the picture. If the stitch is made of small halves, then they can be glued together with superglue to obtain a longer rod. To process ferrite, you need to use a sharpener (emery wheel) to end up with a round rod with a diameter of about 10 mm and a length of about 50. The process is very difficult, during it you can fully feel like a coal mine worker:-D Instead of a rod, you can use many small ferrite rings glued together - some people find it easier to buy them, but they are also made from 2000NM ferrite :-)
The rod needs to be wrapped with a layer of electrical tape and wound 20 turns of 0.8 wire - what we used in the first transformer, stretching the winding over its entire length, only retreating 5-10 mm at the edges and fixing the wire with threads or the same electrical tape. YOU NEED TO WIND THE WIRE IN THE SAME DIRECTION AS ON THE SECTION, for example, clockwise or counterclockwise as you like;-) Then we insulate everything in several layers, as far as the internal diameter of the tube allows, so that it fits inside tightly but without force.
After the preparatory and winding process, we perform the following trick. We insert the rod inside the frame, and on the side where the HV winding ends (where there is no output in the form of wiring) CONNECT THE 2 WINDINGS TOGETHER!!! Thus, the transformer will have 3 terminals instead of the usual 4: the end from the 1st winding, the common point and the HV terminal. ATTENTION! Pay attention to the phasing (winding in the same direction), otherwise the shocker will not work.
To complete the process, the transformer must be placed in a cardboard box and filled with hot paraffin. To do this, melt the paraffin in a tin can, but you don’t need to heat it, otherwise the hot paraffin will damage the frame and all your work will go down the drain. The conclusions must first be sealed with some kind of glue so that the paraffin does not leak out :-) It is best to carry out the process in two stages. First, pour paraffin, then place it in front of the fan heater or on the radiator so that it warms up for 10-15 minutes, this way all the air bubbles will float up and go away. The boxes need to be made with a RESERVE IN HEIGHT because after cooling the paraffin shrinks greatly. You can remove excess with a knife. This technology is almost as good as the vacuum process in a factory, but can be used in the kitchen. If you have the opportunity to borrow an industrial vacuum pump, it is better to use epoxy instead of paraffin - it is more reliable.
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I have been making similar devices for many years, and each time the circuit technology is slightly different. In search of a convenient and very powerful stun gun, I created a whole notebook with the developments of stun guns, and it is these archives that are offered to your attention. The circuit of this shocker on one transistor is very simple - a KT819 converter and a push-pull voltage multiplier. Now think: just two capacitors are not capable of stunning - but you are deeply mistaken, the power of the shocker with a power supply of 12 volts 2 amperes reaches 30 watts, and is capable of half-illuminating an incandescent lamp with a voltage of 220 volts 60 watts.
In the photographs, the shocker is powered by a mobile phone battery with a capacity of 650 mAh, the arc with this power supply is 1 centimeter, but with a power supply of 12 volts the arc reaches 4-5 centimeters. For these parameters, you need to find capacitors with a capacity of 10 kilovolts 22000 picofarads, the code marking is attached to the article. In fact, such imported capacitors can easily be found on the radio market. High-voltage diodes in the voltage multiplier are used - domestic kts106 is the best option.
The converter is assembled on the basis of a simple blocking generator on one transistor, the transistor is KT819/KT805 and its imported analogues, or any other similar parameters. 100 ohm resistor with 1 watt power. The transformer is taken from a computer power supply. The primary winding contains 10 turns with a tap from the middle; it is wound with 4 strands of wire with a diameter of 0.5 millimeters each. Then we insulate the primary winding with several layers of transparent tape and wind the secondary winding, it contains 2000 turns of 0.08 mm wire, we insulate the winding every 80 turns. It is advisable to fill the finished transformer with epoxy resin to avoid breakdowns. And now the main secret of this shocker is the spark gap!
It is no secret to you that the main disadvantage of shockers on a voltage multiplier is that when they come into contact with human skin, the pulses are closed through the resistance of the skin and the capacitors do not have time to charge, the spark gap serves as a reserve gap, that is, charge flows through it constantly, this is voltage enough to paralyze after 1 second of using a shock device. The body is made of plastic; you can use the body of a Chinese LED flashlight. The shocker must be equipped with a non-latching button and a switch. It is convenient to use two batteries from a mobile phone as a power source for this stun gun using one transistor. And in the future we will consider more powerful stun guns with an anti-snatch system and other interesting devices. Stay tuned, author - Arthur Kasyan (AKA).
You can find a lot of videos and text materials on production on the Internet. Making most of them requires a lot of money and knowledge. In this material we will look at the method of manufacturing what is probably one of the cheapest and simplest stun guns. As a result, we will get a good means of self-defense.
Let's watch a video on making a stun gun
So, we will need:
- electric fly swatter;
- two AA batteries;
- box;
- transparent hoses;
- self-tapping screws.
First of all, we take the electronic fly swatter and disassemble it. After successfully disassembling the fly swatter handle, all the electronics will open before us.
We will use the most common self-tapping screws as contacts. When searching for them, you need to make sure that they are as identical as possible. As for the hoses, we will use them to insulate the contacts.
We glue double-sided tape to the bottom of the box and assemble the entire board structure, along with the battery and contacts in the box.
It is quite difficult to defend yourself in a closed space from an unexpected attacker. For example, how to stop a robber in an elevator? or they can harm themselves, and a knife or pistol can become a deadly weapon. They will also give you a deadline.
Therefore, the best option would be one that, by the way, you can make yourself. And today we will tell you how to make regular and powerful mini stun guns at home.
Before moving on to special types of devices, let's talk about how to make the simplest stun gun.
Here is a list of necessary materials and parts:
Now let’s find out how to make a homemade stun gun.
First we make a high-voltage coil.
Now we make the converter transformer.
The next part is the spark gap.
We take ready-made batteries:
The latter are very capacious, but they must be purchased, and this is expensive.
For the charger we solder a diode bridge, a capacitor, a resistor and a signal LED. A diagram with the characteristics of the parts can be found on the Internet. Charging time will be about three to four hours.
As for the case, you can find something suitable by gutting the faulty device. Or glue it together from plastic parts. You can even make a case out of cardboard by filling it with epoxy. The result is a stun gun with a power of about five watts, consuming up to three amperes of current. We remember that a person should not be exposed to a discharge for more than three seconds.
So, how to make a stun gun from a flashlight like the so popular ones, or, for example,?
We will tell you further about how to make a stun gun from a battery.
This is the easy way. For it you will need:
We take an ebonite rod and tape two five-centimeter pieces of steel wire to it with electrical tape. They need to be connected using a wire with a transformer and a battery. The switch is attached to the opposite end of the rod. When you press its button, a discharge (arc) will appear between the pieces of wire. To do this you need to press 25 times per second.
The power of the device is small - it can be used for intimidation rather than for protection.
So, how to make a stun gun from a lighter? We will need:
We disassemble the lighter and cut off the tube with a hacksaw. We only need a handle with wires coming out of it. We leave them one or two centimeters long, cutting them off with pliers. Then we expose their ends and solder pieces of paper clips there. We bend the ends slightly. We fix the entire structure with glue. The power of the device is also not too high.
The video below will show you how to make a stun gun from a lighter at home:
You will need:
But this is more of a toy than a means of self-defense. Now let's find out how to make a stun gun from a capacitor at home.
We take a capacitor from a long fluorescent lamp. Previously, in Soviet times, it was rectangular, red or green. In modern models it is a white cylinder.
We also need a wire (double) with a plug at the end. The length of the wire can be left about ten to fifteen centimeters.
We expose the ends opposite the plug, screw them to the contacts of the capacitor and carefully insulate them. There you go. Now, after charging from the mains, a discharge will appear at the ends of the plug, quite noticeable. But it doesn’t cause harm – it only stings.
The video below will show you how to make a powerful stun gun at home:
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A stun gun can be easily purchased on the Internet or in specialized stores. But the prices for these products are not encouraging. A full-size model costs an average of 10,000 rubles and more. Moreover, most of the presented samples are made in China.
There is also a cheaper option designed to repel and protect against dogs and other animals. It will cost approximately 2000 - 3000 rubles. The price is also decent. So the Internet is replete with instructions for assembling homemade stun guns.
After watching several training videos from Youtube, I decided to try to assemble a similar model from scrap materials.
Let me note right away that it didn’t take much time or any special skills to assemble this shocker.
The heart of our device is a high-voltage pulse generator, which is used for electric ignition in gas stoves and water heaters. It is easier and cheaper to order such a device on the Internet. I used the Aliexpress service, where a generator can be purchased for only 130-150 rubles. I'll leave the links at the bottom of the article.
As a body, I decided to use an old non-working flashlight powered by a rechargeable battery. Offhand, all the new “parts” had to fit into the body.
A 3.7V battery was also ordered to power our generator. You can choose another battery, but in this case you need to pay attention to the power and capacity of the battery. Naturally, the larger the capacity, the better.
Having received both orders in the mail, I armed myself with tools and began assembling the stun gun. The first thing I did was disassemble the flashlight and take out its old battery. The small lithium-ion battery had long since died and was useless. In a couple of minutes I soldered the contacts from it to my new battery. It turned out to be quite simple.
The next step is to disconnect the light bulb and place our generator in its place. It was even easier. In principle, you don’t even need to solder - you can just carefully twist the wires and insulate them well. In this case, you need to pay attention to the polarity. The red wire is “+”, the green wire is “-”. This is necessary for the correct operation of the module. By the way, the polarity is often written on the board itself, where the wires to power the light bulb come from.
I connected the generator very easily too. It was time to assemble the device, and then problems arose. Firstly, the old battery was square and much smaller in size. There was nowhere to put the new battery, as well as the generator itself. The flashlight only seemed suitable from the outside. Inside the body there were various grooves, stops and strips on which all the “internals” were held.
And then I had to experiment. To my joy, I found a plastic vitamin jar that fit just perfectly! I stripped the wires through which the generator produces high voltage current and attached screws to them.
Having made holes in the bottom of the jar with an awl, I screwed screws into them from the inside so that their bases were as far apart as possible, and the ends, on the contrary, were close. This is also an important point, since the generator produces a discharge if the distance between the contacts is 1-2 cm. It will not be able to work at idle. This will quickly disable it. In addition, many craftsmen were faced with the following problem: the discharge took place inside the housing, and not at the ends of the electrodes. Therefore, you should not screw in the screws parallel to each other. And that is all! The generator and battery easily fit into the jar, which, after heating with a hairdryer, was screwed onto the flashlight. For additional fixation, I wrapped the joint with electrical tape.
The shocker turned out great. When you turn on the flashlight, a blinding spark appears and a deafening bang is heard. Many craftsmen post videos about how they assemble shockers in PVC tubes, but this is extremely inconvenient. An old flashlight is the best option. You already have a ready-made microcircuit that ensures that the battery is charged from the network and the correct supply of energy to the generator. And the power button is also in place.
Here's what happened in pictures:
Charging plug
The cost of the device was about 300 rubles, not counting the broken flashlight. But the shocker turned out to be quite functional, quite durable and compact. Assembly also took very little time - no more than an hour.
Take necessary precautions when using the device.
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In this article, we will look at the circuit diagram of a stun gun and describe how to assemble it with your own hands. Of course, some may say that you can buy them ready-made, but believe me, what you can buy industrially produced are just children’s toys compared to this monster. First, let’s describe the characteristics, technical ones so to speak:
● Output voltage........................25...30 kV;
● Pmax................................................... ......135 W;
● Long-term...................................70 W;
● Discharge frequency...................................1000...1350 Hz;
● Distance between contacts...................24...26 mm;
● Lantern................................................... .....available.
The shocker circuit is shown in the figure below:
The left side of the diagram shows the charger. As you can see, it is implemented without a step-down transformer. Charging is carried out from a household alternating voltage network of 220 volts. With this circuit, the battery is charged with a current of 45 mA, so it takes quite a lot of time to recharge, so if you have a charger for charging such batteries, it is better to charge it with it, and exclude this one from the shocker circuit altogether.
For the appearance of lithium polymer batteries, see the following figure.
The advantage of such batteries is that they can withstand high short circuit currents.
Let's move directly to the shocker circuit. It contains a powerful high-voltage inverter that converts 12 volts to 2500, and a voltage multiplier. The converter contains powerful N-channel field switches T1 and T2 (IRF3205), and a transformer made on a ferrite core. The transformer is probably the most labor-intensive part of the work when assembling this circuit, so we’ll tell you more about winding the trance.
We are looking for a suitable core. We came across a faulty (made in China) converter that powered 50-watt halogen lamps, so we borrowed it from it. The existing windings will not suit us; we remove everything that is wound there from the frame. The appearance of the transformer is shown in the figure below.
Ready? Now we have to wind the primary and secondary windings again.
We wind the primary winding: We take a copper wire with a diameter of about 0.4...0.5 mm, from 5 cores of this wire we make 2 identical bundles, each approximately 20 cm long, i.e. it turns out that one harness will correspond to a wire with a diameter of approximately 2.5 mm. At the same time, we wind 5 turns onto the frame with two strands, distributing the turns from edge to edge of the frame, as shown in the following figure.
Now the primary winding needs to be properly insulated, either with insulating tape or with ordinary transparent tape for at least 10 layers. If the terminals of the winding harnesses are too long, bite off the excess with side cutters, strip each wire of varnish, twist it back and tin it. The primary winding is ready.
We wind the secondary winding: Our secondary is step-up, high-voltage, so we will wind it in layers. In total, you need to wind 1000...1200 turns of wire with a diameter of 0.08...0.1 mm. In each layer we will make about 80 turns, and between the layers we will also make insulation (at least 3 layers). The transformer does not require additional filling with compound.
Important!!! Do not turn on the transformer if there is no load on it.
We assemble the multiplier, i.e. high voltage part. The circuit uses KTs123B diodes, their possible replacement is KTs106G. This is not the only option for replacing high-voltage diodes; you can select others, the main thing is that they are designed for Urev in the region of 8...10 kV, and the operating frequency is within 15 kHz.
We insert the assembled multiplier into the housing, solder the output electrodes and the terminals of the secondary winding of the transformer, and fill the multiplier with compound or epoxy resin.
We make the distance between the electrodes around 2.5 cm. Although the shocker is capable of penetrating up to 4.5 cm of air space, you should not make a large distance between the electrodes.
The stun gun is mounted in the housing of an LED flashlight made in China, finished with carbon film. The button contacts can withstand a current of 3 amperes. Ultra-bright LEDs HL1 - HL3, resistor R4 6.8...10 Ohm.
The finished shocker assembly is shown in the following figure.
No human trials have been conducted.
