Has always been popular all over the world. Especially today, when planetary pollution and endless traffic jams cause numerous inconveniences on a global scale and scientists insist on the need to reduce the number of cars on the streets, the bicycle takes on a new life. If you are a bicycle lover and prefer a bicycle to other vehicles, then you will definitely like this material as in it we will look at the method of making a tail light for a bicycle.
We invite you to watch the video on how to make a headlight.
So, what do we need during the manufacturing process:
- battery compartment for the crown;
- battery crown;
- fastening from the reflector;
- red LED strip;
- drill;
- drill;
- bolts;
- nuts;
- washers.
Let’s immediately clarify the need to use a battery compartment for the crown. The fact is that such compartments have special contacts for connecting Krona-type batteries. In addition, they are equipped with a switch that will allow you to turn the flashlight on and off at the required time without any problems. As for the LED strip, to make the lantern we will need 3 pieces of 5 cm each. There will not be any special problems with finding materials, so we can start assembling.
At the end, we solder the wires going from the battery compartment to the LED strips. For convenience, you can solder the wires to the outer contacts, and connect the middle ones to each other.
A little about beauty. Everyone understands why you should keep your bike clean. It's beautiful and convenient. Everyone understands why headlights are needed. It's safe and useful. But many go further. When you are seen more often with a bike than without it, it’s time to think about presentability and beauty. And it is at this moment that many people remember tuning and begin to look for how to make bicycle wheels illuminated by analogy with car decorations.
First of all, lighting is about visibility and beauty. A bicycle flying by, its wheels glowing with a bright, unearthly color, always attracts attention. At the bike rally there will not be a single bicycle even similar, and some, perhaps, will kindly envy the owner of a decently decorated bike.
In addition, backlighting has several “side” benefits:
Despite the large selection of lighting elements, among cyclists the absolute leader is diodes and derivative combinations of diodes - strips and lights. The fact is that other options are simply not suitable for the riding characteristics:
The choice appears when the question arises about the location of lighting. The wheels are usually decorated first, since in motion you can get the maximum effect from lighting with minimal effort. Secondly, usually a diode strip is used for this, and the frame is decorated.
Other methods and elements of selection are extremely rare. Frame tapes and wheel lighting kits can easily be ordered on the Internet as a ready-made kit, but this does not make much sense, since making the lighting yourself is faster and cheaper.
The most accessible resource for making backlights is ordinary diodes, which are sold by weight in radio stores. There are two ways to place them:
Let's start with the first option - fixing the diodes separately. For production you will need:
LED with insulation and soldered wires
We carve out a couple of hours for work and start.
Making a diode tube
In addition, from diodes, wire and a transparent plastic tube (for example, a catheter), using a soldering iron at home, you can make a “diode tube”: connect the diodes, place them in the tube, and fix them. The result is a universal lighting element that can be laid similarly to factory strips.
It is much easier to use LED strip (also known as LED strip). It is usually sold in reels of 5 meters and consists of sections, a resistor and several diodes. Actually, it can be cut into these sections, placing it at any point on the bicycle.
Illumination with tape
It is convenient to use a whole tape on a frame, drawing long luminous stripes, and cut into separate segments - attach it to the rim and spokes of a wheel, creating complex “pictures” when rotating.
The main thing when working with tape:
Using tapes is more expensive than using individual diodes. Depending on the number of cells and their power, the tapes can easily drain even a powerful battery in a matter of hours.
Apart from diodes, in reality only neon tubes are used. This element gives a very beautiful, soft light, but the main goals are not achieved through its use: it is visible not far away, and the colors are not bright enough. Neon consumes more energy, and the bulbs themselves are damaged quite easily.
Neon frame lighting
At the moment, there are no alternatives to LED lighting, so there is no better way to illuminate a bicycle than with an LED strip. Although many DIY experts can argue with this.
For example, the so-called RGB backlight is becoming increasingly popular, when a set of diodes is controlled by a small controller, which, depending on commands, speed and other parameters, can create a unique dynamic pattern on a wheel or frame.
Bicycle lighting is an inexpensive and bright way to stand out among the huge mass of identical cyclists, creating your own unique image with the help of several diodes and your own skill.
Today, purchasing a bicycle light is not a problem. But some are not satisfied with the quality of Chinese bicycle lights, while others are not satisfied with the price. As a result, cyclists are faced with the question: “How to make a flashlight for a bicycle yourself?” The answer is simple. We order a powerful LED from China, and the rest is improvised material that is easy to find at home or in a hardware store. So let's get started.
To make a bright bicycle light with your own hands, first of all, let’s decide on an LED. In our case, the heart of the circuit will be 10 W. Its light output of 1000 lm is enough not only to illuminate the road surface, but also to surprise oncoming drivers. To form a narrow beam, you will need a small lens and a mount for it. As a clamp, you can use a flange from the P213 transistor and part of a plastic tube from a coil. The basis for the flashlight is a heatsink from a computer processor, in which you need to drill two holes for mounting the LED, two for the wires and two for mounting the focusing lens. First, fix the LED, not forgetting to apply thermal paste. Then we thread the wires through the holes and solder them to the plus and minus of the CREE XM-L. 
The next step is to assemble the focusing part. You may have to experiment with the focal length and reduce the length of the tube a little. Next is the body. You can take spare parts from an old bicycle headlight, or you can make it yourself from foil PCB. The dimensions of the case are selected individually, depending on the shape of the radiator. 
This design provides space for a driver (its diagram can be viewed) and a microswitch located behind the radiator. The front of the lens is protected by plexiglass, which is held in place by 4 screws (it would be more efficient and ergonomic to fix it with hot glue). 
We paint the body black and the CREE XM-L LED front light is ready for installation on the bike. All you have to do is stock up on two lithium batteries and you can hit the road.
Assembling a tail light on a bicycle with your own hands is also easy. Let's take as a basis an ordinary reflector in a plastic case, which is an integral part of any bicycle. In addition to this, we will need:
The first step is to disassemble the reflector: separate the reflector from the body using a utility knife. The reflector is securely glued to the back cover to withstand strong vibration while riding. Therefore, the component parts must be separated carefully, otherwise the reflector may crack. 
The next step is to decide on the LED and how to mount it. In the simplest case, you can attach an aluminum plate inside the case, which will serve as a radiator. Due to the fact that the efficiency of such a heat sink is quite low, the LED power should not exceed 0.5 W. But in this design, the internal space is enough for a flat radiator and several SMD LEDs, after which the glowing reflector can be assembled back.
The second method involves installing a more powerful radiator with fins that improve heat dissipation. Any radiator dismantled from Soviet equipment or from an old computer processor will be perfect. We cut it to the required size, try it on and drill two holes for mounting the LED. Then we drill 4 holes in the plastic case with a diameter of 4.5 mm for the ties. Nylon ties should not be the thinnest, for example, 4 mm by 160 mm, with which we tightly tighten the radiator with the reflector body.
Now we install a red 1 W LED on the radiator with the obligatory application of thermal paste. We solder two wires of pre-designed length to the LED and connect them to the plug on the other side. The entire assembly must be connected to a power source through a driver or, in extreme cases, through a resistor. 
Since the resulting structure is open on four sides, we make the edging from foil fiberglass of the required height. We install this part of the body and put the reflector on top. When all the parts of the rear light are assembled, you need to fix them together using hot glue. We also use glue to seal the gaps where the tie rods pass.
The made lantern is completely sealed, which is both good and bad. On the one hand, such a taillight is completely protected from any weather conditions. On the other hand, the PCB and plastic housing hinders the ability to cool the LED.
To reduce thermal losses on the LED, a homemade tail light can be improved in several ways:
Read also
A bicycle is a wonderful means of transportation. In fact, you do not need to spend money on fuel, various repairs of a complex mechanism, paying mechanics for the latest issue, etc. On the contrary, you are more likely to get in good physical shape due to constant stress. True, there is one “but” here that ruins everything. It is difficult to use two-wheeled friends in the city, and for many reasons. One of them will be outlined below - driving at night. More precisely, the solution to this problem is a bicycle flashlight.
Actually, the function is clear from the name - everyone knows how to use flashlights and why they are needed.
But for transport, especially something as specific as a bicycle, it plays a special role. Any evening trip can end tragically if road users, that is, motorists, cannot notice you. You can use other things, for example, reflective vests. But it’s much easier to buy a flashlight for a bicycle.
The point is that you also need to light your way. In the end, anything can get under the wheels, and a sufficient level of professionalism to maintain balance on any surface is rather in the realm of acrobatics.
In fact, the choice here is more than obvious - exclusively LEDs. In general, the market for bicycle lights is not limited only to them, but the trends of modernity and progress clearly indicate the advisability of using just such a lamp.
The point here is mainly in the balance between its brightness and cost. You can buy one for a bicycle at almost any lighting store, which means it also makes it very affordable.
In general, their use is also justified by the fact that the power of the light flux can be varied depending on the purpose. For example, the front light obviously needs to be bright enough. But the rear lights, which serve to guide drivers, do not require such brightness.
In general, you need to decide what exactly you need.
To do this, it is worth asking yourself a number of questions. Firstly, why do you need a flashlight - that is, in what situations are you going to use it. This is where the first differences begin. If you prefer to drive on the highway, then you need special lenses that will not dazzle oncoming drivers. For paths and parks, it is better to choose something quite bright - you don’t want to run into roots, stones or even animals, do you? If you are not sure where you are going to spend your time in the saddle, then feel free to take a switchable light. These are also available for sale, although they differ in price.
If you have several iron horses, then you need a removable holder for a bicycle flashlight - and one that is both simple and reliable in design. This is important, especially if you are going to use one device alternately on each.
How long are you going to drive in the dark? This is an equally important aspect of choice. Different gadgets are designed for different operating periods. Moreover, they all have some features - some run on batteries, while others are recharged from the mains. This also needs to be taken into account, especially the last option. After all, you won’t always have an outlet at hand, especially in the forest, but the same batteries can be carried in a backpack.
A bicycle flashlight can also be equipped with additional functionality. For example, an energy-saving mode with reduced brightness. This allows you to save energy to areas that are not illuminated at all. Or the battery indicator is also an important aspect, especially if you like long trips.
Last but not least, what weather do you ride in?
If only in bright sunshine and dry conditions, when rain is an annoying accident, then you don’t have to bother with such things as tightness or the degree of protection against pollution. But this won’t work for daily trips in any season. You will have to shell out for more expensive options, since they are usually multi-tasking, that is, they can withstand fire, water and copper pipes.
By the way, it doesn’t hurt you to know about this either. Because there may not be a consultant in the store or he may not be entirely frank. As a result, you will get something completely different from what you expected.
You need to start with the emergency lights - they are not very bright and “long-lasting”, since they run on coin-cell batteries, but as a backup they can be of great help. There are also flashers - brighter lights, usually flashing. But they can also work in constant beam mode. They are the best option for balancing affordable price and quality of light.
Torch flashlights are the most common. These are the ones most often meant.
The variety here is huge. Some models even have additional devices, such as those connected to a common battery. You have plenty to choose from - the main thing is not to overdo it with power.
First of all, these are rechargeable systems. They are needed exclusively for long night rides, as they have a capacious battery and a very high luminous flux. True, the price here is an order of magnitude higher than others. But you have to pay for quality. In addition, they are produced mainly by well-known brands, which consider it beneath their dignity to produce cheap products.
Dynamo generator - a solution to the problem with batteries and getting rid of fuss with batteries. In this case, the light is powered by the movement of the bicycle. There is nothing complicated in this system, but the cost may take you aback. In addition, the most advanced systems can store energy, continuing to shine even when you stand. This is especially convenient for driving around the city.
There are also flashlights built into the device. This is also a pretty convenient thing, but you shouldn’t consider them a panacea. You will still have to install normal lighting on your vehicle. This method solely affects your comfort when moving.
Actually, the second part of the story. Prices today are quite steep, and you can’t always be sure of the quality of the purchased item. That’s why your own hands come to the rescue. The design of these devices is quite simple, and therefore this method has become widespread.
The circuit shown here is an LED bicycle light - a great solution to the problem. The brightness of the resulting device is quite high, and this is what plays the biggest role. In addition, this allows you to save a little.
Making a flashlight is quite simple, but for this you will need to buy a few things. Most can be found at parts markets - you just need to look hard for a bike parts rack. Or today it is possible to order everything online.
First of all, you need the LEDs themselves, as well as the optical lenses.
It is also necessary to find the body of the future flashlight, a radiator, an adhesive and a toggle switch. You will also need Lexan plastic marked MR10. Naturally, you will also need batteries for operation. It is better to buy them separately without trying to make them yourself. At least without proper experience.
So we get to the question of whether it’s for a bicycle. If you are using a ready-made case, then you will not need some things. So here is a somewhat simplified diagram.
First, you need to install the hex tubes for the LEDs inside the housing - this can be a challenge due to the size. Be prepared to trim them until they fit into place. Next you need to insert the LEDs themselves. They must be connected to each other in order - plus and minus. Then simply glue them with hot glue.
An important point is cooling. For this you will need an aluminum radiator.
Glue the strips on the top of the case, as well as on the back where the diodes are attached. Next you need to attach the lenses. You cannot use regular superglue for this - it will damage the inner surface.
Wiring is quite easy - regular copper wire is used. Connect from plus to minus, etc., and then pass it into the hole on the back wall of the case. There will be a battery that supplies energy.
The next step is to mount the flashlight on your bike. You need a bracket that fits the size of your steering wheel. Well, or another tube on which the flashlight will be attached. The most important thing here is reliable glue, preferably epoxy. It ensures that the light bulb doesn't fall off at the worst possible moment, leaving you in the dark.
The last step is to connect the toggle switch to turn on the flashlight, this is also not difficult.
Simply place it in the electrical circuit between the battery and the flashlight. This way you can turn the device on and off when needed. Naturally, removable batteries will be better - it’s just more convenient to charge them.
I am writing this article to help those who have the time and desire to make their own lights on a bike, but have no practical experience. Those who want to repeat the design or make their own will need minimal skill in working with electricians, and somewhat more in plumbing. The theory of the issue can also be viewed at www.realbiker.ru and zid.nm.ru (I found a lot of useful information there). Read the rest below :)
First, let’s talk about where the idea of making your own lighting system for a bicycle came from, instead of simply buying a headlight, dimensions, and installing them on a bike in a store.
Before you take up the file and crimp for the terminals, it would be nice to have an idea of what we want to get in the end. Therefore, I will mention some points that are worth remembering when purchasing parts and assembling the system (those who are impatient can immediately move on to the practical part).
primary goal
With a minimum expenditure of money, time and labor, obtain a lighting system that is universal (do not focus on the design of a particular bike!), portable and lightweight (without the use of tank batteries and spotlights from a construction site!), cheap to operate, maintain and repair, reliable , economical and capable of providing powerful and/or long-lasting illumination on the go.
Principles of system construction
We could probably mention a few more principles, but these are the main ones, and the general concept of them is quite clear. Let's move on to practice.
Light elements
We use either automobile or motorcycle lamps (headlights from Soviet light motorcycles, small round tuning halogen fog lamps for the VAZ-2110, etc.), or bicycle lamps for car lamps, or we make something ourselves.
In the fall of 2005, I bought a set of headlights - taillights - dynamics (Ukrainian made, 180 rubles) at Tourist. All equipment is made entirely of galvanized/chromed iron; in the headlight, the central base is a standard automobile one, and the side base is for a Soviet threaded bulb. The headlight has a mode switch such as “low beam - high beam - low and high beam”. The rear marker is also suitable for a Soviet threaded light bulb. Wire fastening - spring clamps. Fastening the headlights and markers to the bicycle is done with ugly-looking clamps on the head tube and seatpost. The kit included wires and lamps: 2 high beams (12 volts) for the car socket, 2 threaded ones (12 volts) for low beam, 1 threaded one (2.5 volts) for rear marker.
In addition, 2 LEDs were purchased in car sockets: white (50 rubles) and red (20 rubles). If you focus on power, and not on dim light for several days, you don’t need to buy them. Different options for lamps and diodes that can be used are presented in the photo.
Current source
Here is the most interesting thing. If you settle on a voltage of 12 volts (otherwise it is impossible - goodbye wide choice, cheapness and availability of automobile lamps and diodes), then the choice is basically this: a dynamic generator, a motorcycle lead battery, a sealed lead battery from an uninterruptible power supply unit, a nickel-voltage unit. cadmium (nickel metal hydride) batteries (10 pieces X 1.2 volts = 12 volts).
The option with 10 nickel batteries disappears immediately - the price is prohibitive. For example, an NH battery of AA form factor (it makes no sense to take AAA or less) for 2.8 ampere-hours costs about 100 rubles. 10 pieces - 1000 rub. Plus - 500-800 rubles for a good charge (and a bad one will quickly ruin the batteries, they are very sensitive to the charging mode). It turns out to be too expensive, and also inconvenient - the batteries will have to be charged in 2-3 passes.
I tried to use a 12-volt dynamic generator (see photo) - its autonomy is very tempting (fortunately, I didn’t have to buy it - it came with a headlight). And he even went with him on the Salyut in October 2005 for sea trials. And when I returned, I took it off the bike forever. The disadvantages - additional effort required for pedaling, noise, weight, lack of light when stopping at traffic lights - outweighed its only advantage, that same autonomy.
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The only option in which the use of a generator is justified is an autonomous bicycle trip into the wilderness for two weeks. In this case, it makes sense to create a powerful electrical system on the bike, comparable to a motorcycle one - the speaker is turned on continuously and charges the on-board battery through a diode assembly (we rectify the current), a lamp (we limit the current) and a voltage regulator (we limit the voltage), and energy is already consumed from the battery consumers. The system is complex, heavy and completely unnecessary under normal operating conditions. So we forget about the dynamics.
As a result, we are left with lead-acid batteries. Cheap and uncritical to the charge mode, although heavy. It is better not to use a motorcycle one - it is sensitive to turning over (electrolyte may leak), but we all love to put the bike on the saddle and handlebars! This means we buy a sealed battery from an uninterruptible power supply. I bought it in the spring of 2006 at CHIPiDIP (Soviet Army Street in the area of the Economic Academy) for 300 rubles. (approximately) 12 volts, 2.3 ampere-hours and weighing 1.5 kilograms. The terminals are automotive, male type.
Wires and insulation
We buy ordinary copper wires, with a cross-section of 0.5-0.75 mm, flexible, in black (or to match the color of your frame) insulation. 2-3 meters is enough, it will cost 10-20 rubles. You can buy it at a car store or at the Bird Market.
I didn’t buy wires - back in 1999, I pulled 20 meters of black wire from an abandoned field telephone line in the Soksky quarry department - it turned out to be an excellent thing (6 copper wires, and in the center there is a steel one, it’s basically impossible to break, they’re just a bit harsh). I used them.
For another 25 rubles, you need to buy a roll of black (or - to match the color of your frame) imported electrical tape - insulate the wiring and screw the wires to the frame. Do not take the domestic one - it comes off more often and is too thick.
Electrical products
You will need a device that can turn the headlights on/off. I used an iron toggle switch (costs 25 rubles, I bought it at Tourist), it can withstand current up to 30 amperes. I connected it according to the ground switch circuit (i.e. it de-energizes all circuits at once), since there is a switch on the headlight to control the front light. You can look for motorcycle handlebar switches, but there will be extra wires.
It is a good idea to install a fuse. The optimal one is a disposable blade car fuse (see photo) for 5 amperes in a special socket (the socket costs about 25 rubles, you can buy it at Autofastener at the intersection of Stavropolskaya St. and 22 Party Congress St.). Such fuses are found on “tens”, new “Volgas”, they are very reliable and their price is pennies on any car market)
Electrical connecting elements
No options - standard car terminals (see photo). The price in the auto store is 50 kopecks. per piece, you need 10 pieces (they are different, according to the “mom and dad” principle, you buy 5 of one, 5 of the other). You can also buy silicone protective caps for the terminals there (RUB 1 each), but you can do without them - just wrap them with electrical tape.
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Other equipment
Well, the battery needs to be put somewhere - accordingly, you need a stretcher bag. There is, however, an option that I implemented on the Salyut - a battery with a mass switch is attached to the inclined pipe of the frame with a pair of clamps. However, this option is not the best - the aesthetics are compromised, dust, dirt and water get in and a short circuit can occur, and you will have to charge the battery without removing it from the bike. In general, it’s better to put it in your bag, i.e. prepare 200 rubles. I made the bag myself from the case from the Fa gift perfume set - I saved some money.
Then, the battery needs to be charged periodically. It’s good for those who have a compact charger for a car battery - you can use it by limiting the charging current with a resistor and strictly observing the charging time. I keep the bike on the balcony at home, and the charger weighs 30 kg. I have it hanging on the wall in my garage - I had to look for an alternative.
An alternative was the old Chinese power supply with adjustable voltage (see photo). Because of its “quality” in the “12 volt” mode, it actually gives 13-15, which is what we need (at a current of 0.1 ampere).
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We connect a powerful germanium diode to the “positive” terminal (this guarantees that when the voltage drops on the charger, the current will not flow in the opposite direction, i.e. from the battery), then an LED (this is a charge indication), then a lamp (it protects the LED, roughly limiting the charging current), then a resistor (needed to accurately limit the current to 0.02 amperes). With a current of 0.02 amperes, the battery will charge for a very long time (with a capacity of 2.3 ampere-hours - 115 hours or 5 days), but it can never be turned off - there will be no overcharging. To quickly charge a very low battery, it is possible to connect a charger to it, bypassing the “diode-LED-lamp-resistor” circuit, but here you need to keep an eye on the time and switch to normal charging mode at the right time. Below is a diagram.
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I would still recommend buying the cheapest car charger - it’s easier than doing it yourself, and not everyone has diodes, resistors and old power supplies lying around at home. It will probably cost 500 rubles. I didn’t spend a penny, but I was just lucky - I had all the necessary equipment.
Tools
When starting to assemble the system, you need to have some tools. I will list what I used myself. If some can be dispensed with, this will be indicated. If they can be replaced with something, it will be indicated with what (and the consequences).
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Mechanical work
We start by installing the headlight. I tested two mounting options on the Salyut and two on the Merida.
On the Salyut, the headlight was initially mounted on a bracket for the reflector (see photo).
The standard headlight bracket simply did not fit on the bike. I had to get twisted and put a plastic clamp on the outside (from the rear standard reflector of the Merida), and on it, on top of the steering wheel, a headlight (see photo).
The fasteners are very reliable, although not very aesthetically pleasing. Yes, the headlight had to be turned upside down, but fortunately it is round, and this did not affect the distribution of light.
There were two options for mounting the rear marker - both were quite successful. On the Salyut, the rear marker was attached to a hole drilled in the rear trunk rod (see photo).
Since the clamp was made of plastic, we had to run an additional “negative” wire from the nearest screw on the frame to the frame housing.
The battery was initially interlocked with a ground switch and installed through a rubber gasket on the inclined pipe of the Salyut frame using clamps (see photo).
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Actually, the very shape of the battery contributed greatly to this. However, the disadvantages of this mounting option have already been mentioned earlier. Therefore, on the Merida, the battery was already placed in a subframe bag, and the mains switch and fuse were hanging in the same bag next to the battery on wires. This scheme turned out to be quite successful and did not raise any complaints.
Electric installation work
My wiring diagram is shown in the figure, and consists of four sections (not counting the two ground wires connecting the headlight and marker housings to the frame), which are numbered:
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In principle, this circuit is the required minimum, and it can be painlessly modified to connect additional consumers. The main thing is not to connect anything that bypasses the mains switch and fuse.
Having decided on the diagram, we estimate the placement of the headlight, clearance and battery on the frame, and cut the wire to the appropriate length. Having cut off the necessary pieces of wires, we insert the contacts into the headlight and headlight - depending on their design, you will need to strip the ends and either place them under a spring clamp, or clamp them with a screw, or crimp the corresponding terminal and put it on the mating part in the headlight / headlight.
Then, using automotive terminals and crimping, we form the remaining branches of the wiring.
The last stage is to carefully pull the wires from the seat bag along the frame to the headlight and marker so that they do not interfere and are invisible, and secure them with electrical tape in two or three turns. We connect all the contact pairs (do not confuse the polarity - the diodes can easily be destroyed when switched back on), where necessary, we isolate them.
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Then we check the operation: turn the light on and off, switch modes. We also check the reliability of fastening of all elements and wires. You can just twitch with your hands, but it’s better to go on a test ride (in the daytime, of course), and it’s advisable to keep the headlights and parking lights on the whole way, and choose the route along the most bumpy dirt roads. Upon return, any deficiencies noted will need to be corrected.
Exploitation
The system was operated throughout the 2006 season - from April to September. When driving along the highway, the headlights and parking lights were turned on regardless of the time of day (except for days with bright sun) - in order to become noticeable to motorists and not be hit by a car. There was only one full night ride. In the dark, the headlight light is quite bright, yellowish in color (since the lamps are ordinary - not krypton/halogen), a uniform oval spot extended forward.
Initially, the headlight used a combination of “high beam - diode, low beam - lamp”, and the diode was almost useless during the day and therefore was usually not turned on. The brightness of the light can be assessed from a photograph.
The rear marker was used in versions with a diode and a lamp. The brightness of the lamp is excellent, the brightness of the diode is so-so (in the dark, however, it will do just fine). From the photo you can estimate the brightness with a lamp - taken on a rainy day.
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The lamps neither in the headlight nor in the side marker burned out - apparently this is due to the stable voltage supplied by the battery.
I have never been able to discharge the battery to zero while riding. On average, the operating time of the headlight at maximum mode was an hour and a half (like 45 minutes along the highway with a headlight to the City Council, then through the forest without a headlight, and another 45 minutes with a headlight on the way back). I would estimate the energy reserve in the battery to be one and a half to two hours at maximum light power.
Problems
Most of the problems that arose during operation were associated with imperfect technical solutions used when assembling the system. To put it simply, some “shoals” periodically surfaced and were eliminated during operation.
The main difficulties were associated with the low quality of the headlights. The spring-loaded contacts of the lamps sometimes became loose (and the lamps went out). Due to the weak latch holding the headlight glass, it opened a couple of times while driving. The mode switch initially did not work clearly.
Problems were solved by periodically rebuilding the headlights. The contacts were tightened with pliers, the latch was replaced with a plate with bolts and nuts, and the insulating gasket in the mode switch was replaced. After this, the headlight began to work more or less reliably.
The only problem that has not been completely overcome is that sometimes the “ground” on the headlight disappears. Treated with a blow to the body. Helps immediately and until the end of the trip.
There were also a couple of cases of wires breaking in places where the terminals were crimped (due to sharp jerks when hitting the bag) - this was immediately eliminated by inserting the broken end under the terminal clamp.
There was only one short circuit - it was my own fault, I closed the positive contact of the headlight to the housing with a screwdriver when I was tightening the fasteners. The fuse protected the wires, but, of course, it burned out - I had to change it, since it was quick and inexpensive.
Modernization
At the time of writing, I am generally satisfied with the system. However, “the best is the enemy of the good,” so I will list a number of improvements and modifications that can (or even need) be implemented.
