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» How drills are made at the factory video. How drills are made Visual identification of drill type

How drills are made at the factory video. How drills are made Visual identification of drill type

From a simple nail you can make a good drill that can drill through both wood and steel. Such displays of ingenuity may well be useful in Everyday life. And therefore, carefully study the information presented, it is very useful for self-development.

Manufacturing process

We take an ordinary nail, determine the length yourself, it all depends on what diameter of the hole you need. Using an emery machine, grind off the tip, but not completely, leaving about half.

Then we will need again emery machine. We sharpen the edges of the resulting workpiece, but this must be done with different sides. That is, sharpening is done on one side only from the right edge.

If you only need a drill for wood, then it is ready. All that remains is to saw off or bite off the nail head with metal scissors and you can start drilling holes in boards, plastic or some soft metals. But to use a homemade drill for making holes in harder metals, you need to go through a hardening process.

Drill hardening process (cementation)

In order to be able to work homemade drill By hard metal, it must go through a hardening process. To achieve our goal, we need welding machine and some crushed graphite. Place the graphite in a small metal jar. We connect the negative wire to the nail, and the positive wire to the can, respectively.

Next, we start the welding machine. We begin to immerse the cutting edge of the nail into a jar of graphite. When the graphite mass becomes hot and red, remove the workpiece. Overheating, in this situation, is extremely undesirable, otherwise the entire sharpened part of the nail will simply burn out. You just need to move the sharpened part over the mass, creating a slight spark. The whole process should take no more than 2 minutes.

This whole procedure is designed to saturate our drill with carbon, which significantly increases its strength. In another way, this is called the cementation process.


I'll show you how to make a simple drill from an ordinary nail, with which you can drill steel, wood, plastic, etc. Yes, you read everything correctly, with this drill you can drill thick steel of about 5 mm. Ingenuity is a good thing, it will always help you out in difficult times. life situation. So, to increase the level of self-development, I suggest you familiarize yourself with this method. Perhaps it will be useful in life.

Making a metal drill from a nail

We take a nail and grind off its tip using sandpaper. There is no need to do this completely, about half.


Use a hammer to flatten the end under a flathead screwdriver.


Next, use sandpaper to make cutting edges like a drill.


This is how it should turn out.


In principle, the drill is ready, but it can only drill wood, plastic or other soft metals.

Drill hardening - carburization

To turn a drill into a metal drill, it must be hardened. To do this, we need a DC welding machine and a metal jar with crushed graphite. Graphite can be obtained from old brushes by grinding them with a file.


If you don't have a jar, you can use a piece of flat steel. We connect the positive electrode to the jar, and the negative electrode to the nail.
Turn on the welding machine.


We lower the cutting edge into graphite. As soon as the masa begins to turn red, lift the nail. The main thing here is not to burn everything that was carved. There is no need to overheat, move the nail to achieve a slight spark. The whole procedure lasts 1-2 minutes.


This method is called cementation. That is, the cutting edge is saturated with carbon, which in turn adds strength.


Next, we clamp it in a vice and saw off the cap.


A metal drill made from a nail is ready!

Metal tests

Let's move on to testing. We clamp the drill in the chuck of a vertical drilling machine.


And we drill a steel corner like with a regular drill, periodically spraying with lubricant.


The hole is drilled.


Let's give it a second try.


The exit hole is drilled no worse than with a conventional drill.


Now the task is more difficult - checking the stainless steel. It is known that this cannot be done simply.


We also drill with lubricant.

Over time, any tool becomes unusable, breaks, chips, chips, cracks and becomes dull. Some consequences of use cannot be eliminated, then you have to buy new tool, and some are quite possible to restore and give the instrument a second life. This fully applies to drills, which tend to break or become dull.

Video master class on drill sharpening

First, let's look at how to properly sharpen a drill for metal. The video will demonstrate the main points that you need to know, and we will understand the intricacies together.

Drill sharpening tool

In everyday life, we do not use large drills; as a rule, the most common sizes are small and medium - from 0.5 mm to 18 mm. We will sharpen them. Just to get started, let’s collect everything you need for this. Ideally, the work of sharpening a drill is best done on a sharpening machine. Every self-respecting owner is simply obliged to have a little sandpaper in the garage. Even if it’s not there, it’s not scary. We'll make do with a grinder or an attachment for an electric drill. Just first you need to firmly secure the power tool to the plane. The main thing is to get a rotating sharpening disc or emery stone.

You shouldn’t forget about safety precautions either. God saves man, who save himself. If you don't already wear glasses, then protect yourself with them. Anything can happen. It is also very important to cool the drill in time when sharpening, because if this is not done, the steel will lose strength. During sharpening, the drill becomes very hot, and for cooling it is necessary to periodically dip it in cold water or into liquid oil. The liquid should be poured into a small container and placed within reach near the machine or fixed power tool.

How to sharpen a twist drill

We learn immediately that the drill bit has become dull at the first revolutions of the drill chuck. The drill overheats, creaks and completely refuses to cut even soft metal. The more the drill heats up, the faster it becomes dull, so at the first sign of the drill losing its sharpness, sharpen it.

We sharpen by hand, since we don’t have special sharpening devices, although they greatly simplify the process and make it more accurate. There are several ways to sharpen a metal drill. Let's look at two of them. For sharpening drills up to 3 mm, and more than 3 mm.

The easiest way to sharpen is when we sharpen the cutting edge in one plane. In this case, the rear angle should be about 30˚. When using this method, the most important thing is to keep the cutting edge parallel to the surface of the circle. And the stability of the drill position is relatively emery wheel. Once you have touched the surface with the drill, you cannot move it horizontally or vertically. It won't work out exactly the first time. But from the second it will definitely work. It is worth remembering that if you apply excessive force, and you remember that we are sharpening a drill up to 3 mm thick, the cutting edge may crumble.

The second method is more knowledge-intensive, but also not complicated. Experts call it the conical sharpening method. Its essence is that during sharpening the drill is pressed by the cutting edge and the surface of the back part, while you need to slightly rock the drill so that a conical surface is formed on the back feather part.

You should try not to tear the drill off the stone while sharpening, and move the drill very slowly and without jerking. After this, we create the same cone on the remaining feather.

Sharpening a Pobedite drill

WITH Pobedit drills the same thing happens as with ordinary ones. They may become dull, but much later.

DIY metal drill

The only limitation when working with a Pobedit drill is that we won’t be able to sharpen it using a regular sharpening tool. abrasive wheel at normal wheel speed. The fact is that the higher the sharpening speed, the softer the drill material. The pobedite drill is very hard, and at normal speeds of the emery stone the drill can easily overheat. There are two options - either reduce the speed, or use a diamond grinding wheel.

There are a few basic rules, and the rest comes with experience:

  1. The pobedite drill is sharpened by briefly touching the wheel.
  2. Be careful not to disturb the center of the drill axis when sharpening.
  3. The sharpening angle should not be less than 160-170˚.
  4. Do not cool the drill immediately after sharpening, otherwise it may crack.
  5. Do not overheat the pobedit drill.

If you follow these simple tips, the winning drill will receive new life. Not the first time, but the second time, for sure.

How to sharpen a step drill

The step drill is the black sheep of the drill family. It allows you to very accurately drill holes of different diameters. And with very precise alignment. There are different models of step drills, but the principle is the same - with one drill you can make a hole from 4 to 32 mm. They are very easy to sharpen. To restore the cutting edge, simply straighten it with a rotating wheel with sandpaper.

This way you can extend the life of drills, and at the same time learn how to sharpen them. Working with a blunt instrument is not a good job for a good craftsman.

To make holes in the thickness of the material, cutting tools such as drills are used. The VolgaTools company produces drills and sells them. Our products are made from high quality materials and enjoy constant success with customers who are also satisfied with our prices for drills.

Types of drills

Products can be divided into drills for concrete, metal, wood, glass and tile. Prices for drills are determined depending on the type of work they are intended for. According to the design of the drill, they are a rod with a shank for fastening, a working part, a cutting part and grooves for removing chips. The drilling process occurs due to rotation and feed along the longitudinal axis of the tool. In this case, the drill cuts into the material, and the chips come out.

The following main types of drills are used in industry: spiral, feather, annular, centering, special.

For hand-held, mechanized tools and for drilling holes on stationary machines, twist drills with a cylindrical shank are in great demand.

For metal work, drills are made in a screw shape with a pointed end.

How drills are made, helical groove cutting

Typically the sharpening angle is 120 degrees.

Twist drills

Twist drills have two cutting edges. They are formed by the intersection screw surfaces grooves with rear ones that face the cutting surface. The drill also has a transverse cutting edge, which is formed by the intersection of the rear surfaces, and the front surfaces form two auxiliary cutting edges. The chips move along the grooves of the drill.

Flat drills

Feather drills, or they are also called flat drills, are simple in design and their price is not high. They are manufactured both single-sided and double-sided according to the shape of the cutting edge sharpening. They have a flat cutting part and two cutting edges, which are located symmetrically to the central axis. Feather drills have disadvantages. They do not have grooves for removing chips during drilling, and this leads to damage to the cutting edges, and during work you often have to remove the drill to free yourself from debris and feather drills lose direction during work. They are used when processing hard forgings.

Our drill manufacturing technologies

Making drills by VolgaTools is carried out on modern equipment using quality materials.

Twist drills can be manufactured with cylindrical, hex and conical shanks. Drills with a cylindrical shank are produced with a diameter of up to 20mm. Drills are manufactured in accordance with accepted standards. The main size of a drill is its diameter. The size of the working part depends on the diameter of the drill. If it has a cylindrical shank, then 50mm is added to the diameter, with a conical end of 2D+120mm. For metal work using manual or electric, as well as pneumatic tools, drills are made from high-speed steels (P6M5, P18, etc.).

We care about the rapid promotion of our products and the interests of consumers, and therefore the price for which you can purchase drills is minimal. Depending on whether you place an order for a large or small batch, the price of the order depends.

The density of the metal is so high that to process it it is necessary to use special tools and mechanisms. To make a hole in this material, drills and drilling machines, in which the main cutting element are drills.

Which metal drills are better? It is not easy to determine, because there are no universal products that would be suitable for processing all types of metal products. Experienced master will be able to “by eye” determine the type of metal and quickly select the appropriate cutting tool for processing.

A beginner in this business needs to start with the basics. First, study the classification of drills and their scope of application, because best models- these are products that are ideal for processing specific type metal

What types of drills are there, according to markings and appearance Find out in this article how to choose the right product for the job.

Types of drills for metal

To choose the best models, you need to understand the types of drills.

Spiral

Classic, cylindrical drills that are most often used for drilling metals. Typically, spiral products are made of HSS steel.

The material is a high-quality cutting type of steel, so the gimlets made from it are highly durable and durable.

Conical (stepped)

The cutting surface has the shape of a cone, for which this type drill and got its name. Conical drills are used to make holes in thin metal, as well as to correct defects from other cutting tools.

What are the best step drills to choose? Depends on the type of metal being processed. If the density of the workpiece is too high, then it is better to purchase more expensive, golden-colored products.

In everyday life, this type of drill is rarely used. If you need to frequently drill into thin metal sheets or process soft materials, then despite the relatively high cost, it should be purchased for a home workshop.

Core cutters (annular cutters)

The cutting tool is a cylinder with a cutting edge, which is used to cut metal.

The energy consumption for making a hole in this way is several times lower, due to small area contact of the tool with the surface being processed.

The advantage of using this type of drill over others is the production of holes large diameter. In this case, it is possible to obtain better quality edges than when working with spiral models.

Feathers

A special type of flat gimlet with replaceable working edges is used for drilling metal. Such products allow you to make high-quality, perfectly straight holes.

No distortion during the drilling process and the ability to make a large diameter hole in various metal structures, allows many craftsmen to abandon the use of spiral products.

The low cost of feather drills allows in many cases of metal processing to call them the best for drilling holes.

These are the main types of drills used for making holes in metal structures.

Classification of drills by material of manufacture

Which metal drills are the best for drilling particularly strong alloys is quite simple to answer:

  1. To process such material, you should choose products that have a plate of increased hardness on the cutting edge. Such gimlets are the best for processing hard alloys.
  2. The price of such products is low due to the fact that the main body of the cutting tool is made of ordinary tool steel.

Drills made of metal alloyed with cobalt have good characteristics.

They can withstand increased mechanical loads and excessive heating of the working surface during operation. The cost of the products is high, but if it is necessary to make holes in a hard alloy, then cobalt analogues are the best for performing such work.

Titanium drills are not inferior in strength to cobalt drills, and when drilling alloy steels and non-ferrous alloys they show even better results.

At correct use, titanium models retain their factory sharpening for a long time, which will allow you to perform a significantly larger volume of work.

Inexpensive metal drills are made from ordinary high-speed steel P9 and P18. The cutting tool copes with its function perfectly, but the working surface quickly becomes dull, especially when a certain temperature threshold is exceeded.

Marking of cutting products

Marking drills for metal is necessary to determine the type of steel from which the cutting tool is made. The product also indicates its diameter, accuracy class and manufacturer (country). Only spiral gimlets with a diameter of less than 2 mm are not marked.

In other cases, drill markings may have the following meanings:

  • P9 - made of high-speed steel with a tungsten percentage of 9%.
  • P9K15 - indicates the presence of cobalt in the high-speed steel in an amount of 15%.
  • Р6М5К5 - indicates the presence complex composition cutting steel containing tungsten, cobalt and molybdenum.

Imported products have the HSS designation, which can be used to determine the composition of the material from which the drill was made. The HSS drill - the explanation of which will be given below - is used with an additional letter, by which the presence of alloying metal is determined.

  • HSS-E - contains cobalt. Used in processing metals of high viscosity.
  • HSS-Tin - has titanium coating, which significantly increases the hardness of the working surface, and the temperature resistance of the material increases to +600 degrees.
  • HSS-E VAP - cutting tool used for processing stainless materials.
  • HSS-4241 - designed for drilling aluminum.
  • HSS-R - have maximum strength.

By marking the cutting tool, you can determine for what metal and in what mode the drill can be used. If the marking is not visible, then the purpose of the drill can be determined by the color of the product.

Visual identification of drill type

By the appearance of the cutting gimlet, you can determine the type of material from which the products are made and thereby find out mechanical strength sample. By color you can determine the composition and quality of workmanship.

Grey

Drill gray are made of metal that has not been subjected to any additional processing.

Tool quality, in in this case, leaves much to be desired, but for one-time use such products are quite suitable.

Black

This color indicates that the tool was treated with superheated steam. During processing, the product acquires greater strength.

It perfectly tolerates numerous cycles of heating and cooling of the metal, and also maintains the sharpening of the working surface for a long time.

The price of black metal drills is not much higher than gray products, so if you have a choice, you should give preference to tools of this type when purchasing.

Dark golden

This color indicates that the cutting tool has been tempered. This type of processing significantly increases the mechanical strength of the product as a result of reducing internal stresses.

With a tempered drill, you can successfully process high-strength metals, so if you are drilling too hard alloys, it is recommended to purchase a similar model.

Bright golden

The bright golden color indicates that metal made with the addition of titanium was used in production.

Despite the high cost of such models, it is much more practical to purchase a high-quality drill than to use cheap cutting tools, which will need to be used in large quantities for complex work.

Thus, it is easy to determine the quality of products by appearance and decide which metal drills are best to buy.

Classification by size

To choose the most best drill and at the same time not to overpay, it is enough to know what length dimensions these products are usually divided into. If drilling metal does not require making deep holes, then purchasing models that are too long will lead to cost overruns.

It is customary to classify drills by length as follows:

  1. Short, 20-131 mm long. Tool diameters are in the range of 0.3-20 mm.
  2. Elongated, length is 19-205 mm, and diameter is 0.3-20 mm.
  3. Long series with a diameter of 1-20 mm and a length of 56-254 mm.

When performing drilling work of various depths, you should select the tool that is most suitable for the specific task.

The best manufacturers

To purchase drills and be sure that the declared characteristics are completely true, you need to choose the right manufacturer.

Companies that value their reputation do not sell products of proper quality. Therefore, when choosing metal drills, you should give preference to manufacturers who have been on the market for a long time.

Among the newcomers, there may also be worthy producers. But in order to find out that a good quality product is on sale, you need to make a purchase, which often represents a “lottery”.

1. Bosch - products of the German company have long proven themselves only with positive side. Despite the rather high price of the products, when purchasing Bosch drills, you can rest assured of excellent quality. It is convenient and profitable to purchase tools from this company as a set.

Whichever set of drills you take, any one will only contain highest quality products that will last for many years, provided proper storage and use.

2. "Bison" - domestic manufacturer, whose products are maximally optimized in terms of price-quality ratio. You can purchase the products of this company either in a single copy or in the form of a set. The latter option will significantly save money, despite the significant cost of the kit.

3. Soviet-made drills - this category of cutting tools can be classified as an “endangered species.” With due diligence, you can purchase a rarity that has unsurpassed technical characteristics.

Conclusion

Which metal drills are best to buy depends on many circumstances:

  1. If you need to drill several holes in very thin and soft metal, then just buy a cheap drill that will do the job.
  2. At professional use, it is absolutely not profitable to purchase cheap drills. Low-quality products can lead to defects and significant time costs for frequent replacement of low-quality cutting tools.

In general, drills are made in tool production intended for the manufacture of tools. There are several ways to make drills. In general, two blanks are cut from high-speed steel and plain steel rods. They are then butt welded. The ends are aligned. Then they can use lathe, where grooves are machined with an allowance for grinding. Next they put a stamp and harden it in a thermal oven. Then the grooves are ground and sharpened on optical sharpening machines. But if you need small-diameter drills, you can use blanks entirely made of high-speed steel. Because other operations are already becoming more labor-intensive.

Other drill manufacturing options are also possible. For example, grooves can be milled and ground before heat treatment. Or an option is possible when the rod blank is flattened and then rolled into a spiral, after which the surface of the drill is processed. But this method is not used often. Because it's not accurate enough.

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