Laying tiles in the kitchen is a mandatory process that accompanies renovations. If there are many alternative coatings for walls and floors, then an apron cannot do without it. Thanks to its physical and aesthetic properties, it is indispensable for this part of the room. Hiring specialists for the job will be expensive, not to mention the significant cost of materials.
You can lay tiles with your own hands, even if you have never done this before. After carefully familiarizing yourself with the technology, it will become clear that there is nothing complicated in the work. The maximum that is required is to strictly adhere to consistency. Much depends on the personal qualities of the performer. If you don't have patience and a desire for accuracy, you shouldn't take on the job. Rushing will not lead to anything good.
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A tiled kitchen is rightfully considered the most functional, hygienic and beautiful. Ceramics has excellent qualities: strength, wear resistance and moisture resistance. Each craftsman has his favorite methods of laying tiles, which affects all stages of the work. The bases are prepared in different ways, glue is selected and applied. Despite the differences, the technology is common, because the material is the same - tile.
It is important to choose the right ceramic tiles. The first thing any housewife pays attention to is the design. In this matter, supporters of the Italian style are advised to opt for golden-colored products. Lovers of English primness prefer richness. An oriental flavor will be given by green tiles or similar shades of gray and dark brown.
Kitchen design today widely uses not only rectangular tile shapes. Round, triangular, and square ones are becoming increasingly popular. As an additional attribute - alternation of shades, colors and textures. This variety allows you to show off your design abilities. By combining tiles, they create ornaments and patterns that give the room a zest.
In addition to appearance, great attention is paid to quality when purchasing. Inspect the surface from the reverse side. Only smooth, without scratches or cracks are allowed. The drawing must be clear, without scuffs. Floor tiles can be embossed or specially polished. If water gets in, it will not become slippery and will prevent it from falling.
Kitchen design using tiles has some features:
A special part of the kitchen is the apron. This is both a decorative coating and protection of the wall from water, high temperature, and pollution. It constantly has to be cleaned, so glossy, abrasion-resistant, non-absorbent tiles are most suitable here.
Glazed ceramic tiles can handle these tasks. To create a design, choose a rectangular or square shape. The surface looks beautiful, diluted with inserts made of the same material, but differing in color, pattern, and shape. The main thing is to select so that no more goes into waste than on finishing.
Wooden floors raise many questions, which in many apartments leaves much to be desired. Traditional linoleum flooring is not durable. There are many other materials, but not all of them can withstand the extreme conditions of the kitchen. Not everyone can afford to deal with a major overhaul. It used to be that it was impossible to lay tiles on a wooden floor. Modern technologies make this possible.
Before you start laying the tiles, you purchase everything you need and ensure the scope of work. You will need tools, some of them are commonly used, others are highly specialized:
Everything else, such as buckets, rulers, pencils and cords, is always available in the household.
The tiles are glued with a special compound. You should ask which one the manufacturer recommends. Depending on the size of the surface to be finished, a mixture is purchased. Craftsmen often use a solution of 1 part cement and 4 parts very fine sand. First, stir the dry ingredients, then gradually add water. If the mixture is homogeneous and viscous, it is suitable for work.
The material is not cheap, so everything is carefully calculated so that there is not much left over, but there is definitely enough. Because buying more is also bad. Sometimes it is difficult to find exactly the same, and from different batches there may be different shades. They measure the area of the floor and walls and buy 10% more: for possible damage and sawn-off shotguns. Moreover, it is not necessary to glue tiles behind furniture and equipment - good plastering and painting are enough.
The apron is a little more difficult. To avoid mistakes, draw a drawing indicating the dimensions and location of all elements. These are the indicators we focus on. For a standard kitchen they are as follows:
Next, you need to calculate the total area of the apron. And here the diagram, which I still had to make, is very useful: you can’t keep every size in your head. The result obtained is the initial one for determining the number of tiles. How much you need depends on their size and installation method.
The work is easier and faster if the tile parameters are 20×20 or 27×40, but they are expensive. Models with a width and height of 15 cm are the most practical. The larger the material, the easier it is for a beginner to handle.
The standard method of installation - in a row - will allow you to save the most. In addition, it is the simplest, for people without experience. Brick and especially diagonal masonry leads to overspending; it is difficult for a non-professional to maintain proper gluing.
Start by removing the old coating. If there were tiles there before, they are dismantled using a hammer drill to help. Everything is cleaned down to the layer of plaster. It's easier with wallpaper, even if it's properly glued. When it is impossible to tear them off, moisten them with water and wait until they are soaked, then remove them with a spatula. Paint is removed in two ways: apply a special solvent or heat it with a hairdryer.
Specialists usually do not resort to this. They prefer to apply notches. The technique is time-tested and eliminates unnecessary labor. But this is possible under two important conditions: the paint must lie tightly on the surface and not swell, and the plaster must not peel off anywhere.
If traces of mold and mildew are found, these areas are carefully removed. Then fungicides are applied to prevent the infection from spreading further.
The plaster layer is checked for quality. It should fit snugly to the base; the places where it peels off should be cleaned. Then they are sealed with putty. A perfectly flat surface is not required - it is enough for it to look that way. Sometimes you have to do new plaster. There is no need to display it using beacons - it is enough that the differences do not amount to more than 5 mm.
Particular attention is required to the corners where tiles from two adjacent walls meet. They must be perfectly even. After leveling the surfaces and drying the putty, notches are applied. This will ensure better adhesion of the tiles.
The use of a deep penetrating primer should not be neglected. In addition to ensuring a strong connection, they contain antibacterial substances that prevent the development of mold and fungi. The composition is applied twice, the next layer after the previous one has dried.
For those who are faced with preparing a surface for gluing tiles, it is useful to familiarize yourself with the video material.
Using a level or plumb line, mark a vertical line, and for an apron, a horizontal line slightly below the tabletop. A metal profile is secured along it with dowels. Mark the top of the tiles with a pencil on the reverse side and stack them in one direction. Prepare the glue according to the instructions on the package. It is applied to the entire surface of the tile, the excess is removed with a notched trowel. The instrument is kept in water so that the solution does not dry out on it.
Installation of tiles on the walls starts from the bottom. Apply it to the surface and press it with force, pushing it down with a mallet. They control the correctness of the position - the quality of the whole series depends on this. Continue to go horizontally, inserting crosses, which will ensure uniform thickness of the seams. Periodically check with a long level that the installation is correct. You can correct the tile within 15 minutes, after which the incorrectly laid one will have to be torn off.
When you lay the first row with your own hands, after carefully checking the correct placement, it is recommended to leave it for a day to dry. He is the most responsible, and all further quality largely depends on him. The next day they continue using the same technology. When the surface is completely covered, after 24 hours, take a mallet and tap it. If you hear a dull sound, the tiles are loose. It should be torn off and put in a new way.
An important question: where to start laying the apron - from the middle or from the edge? It depends on its location: it is located in the middle of the kitchen or occupies part of the wall adjacent to the corner. In the first case, from the center, but the rows end with cut tiles. Their size must be kept the same on both sides, otherwise the appearance will be sloppy. If the apron is corner, start from the edge with a whole tile.
If you need to cut tiles, it is very convenient to use a tile cutter, but you can also get by with a grinder with a special circle. With certain skills, a glass cutter is used, which is used to draw a line on the back side, and then break it off, placing it on the edge of the table. Sharp nicks remain, which are removed with sandpaper or a block or file. If you need to make a round hole, use a diamond bit on a grinder.
To properly form the corners and hide the ends of the tiles, use plastic corners. The thickness is selected to be 2 mm larger than the tile so that the edges fit freely. There is a joining option without using corners. It is much more complicated and consists of sawing off the adjacent ends to 45°. If the walls are “filled up”, then it will be possible to make it beautiful only after leveling it with plaster or drywall.
After a day the glue hardens. The supporting metal profile is removed from the apron and the crosses between the tiles are removed. Start making the seams. Use dry grout, dilute it to the desired state, apply it to a rubber spatula and press it in. It should be in harmony with the color of the tile, preferably a little darker. After half an hour, remove excess with a damp cloth.
Learn more about laying tiles on walls in the video.
The technology is not fundamentally different from gluing it to the wall. Careful surface treatment and consideration of features are required beforehand. The coating is under heavy load. Residents visit the kitchen several times throughout the day, because in many houses it also serves as a dining room. Household appliances and massive furniture with dishes and food press on the floor.
Using various layout schemes, the room is visually expanded or reduced. First, they try on dry to evaluate and choose the most acceptable option.
And kitchens. It is moisture and heat resistant, durable and easy to clean, and the variety of textures and shades allows the material to fit into any interior. It is known that the cost of laying tiles with the involvement of professionals can double the cost of repairs, so skilled owners prefer to do it themselves. You can learn how to lay tiles in the kitchen correctly and without extra costs from our article.
In order not to make a mistake with the size and size, before purchasing you should evaluate the premises and the planned scope of work. For small kitchens, it is recommended to purchase mosaics or tiles 10x10 cm, and for spacious ones, tiles with a side of 20 or 30 cm are more suitable. Regarding color and texture, the choice is limited only by the wishes of the owners, but in order for the room to look harmonious, it is worth choosing a material to match the kitchen unit and other elements registration
Measurements of the room will help you determine the amount of tiles. You need to measure the area of the wall or floor that you plan to tile, add a 10% margin to it for possible damage to the material during installation and trimming, and then divide by the size of one tile. This way you will know the exact quantity needed for repairs.
Note! If there are sockets, switches, pipes and other objects at the installation site that require cutting tiles, it is better to purchase tiles for the kitchen with a good supply.
Calculation of coverage in the "Tile" program Another way to find out the required amount of material is to use a special online program. Many construction sites have built-in calculators that, when entering initial data (length and width of the surface of interest, tile dimensions), will quickly calculate the need for tiles. The advantage of such services is the ability to choose a laying option, which significantly affects material consumption.
Laying tiles in the kitchen begins with preparing the surface. The first priority is to level the walls. If the surface condition is satisfactory or there are minor flaws, it is enough to cover it with plaster (2.5 cm thick), and walls with cracks or differences in height should first be sheathed with plasterboard and only then proceed to cladding. It is also necessary to remove any remaining old paint, if any. Special solutions are used for washing, and the flaking coating is scraped off with a sharp spatula or scraper.
Leveling walls with plaster For cladding, choose moisture-resistant plasterboard and attach it to wooden slats or a profile nailed to the walls every 40 cm. To ensure a smooth surface, the ends of the material are cut at an angle of 45º before joining. After installation is completed, putty is applied to the seams and fasteners, and then the material is coated with a primer in two layers. If the walls were leveled with plaster, treatment with a deep penetration primer is also required.
When, in addition to wall cladding, it is planned to lay tiles on the kitchen floor, the previous covering is dismantled, and the surface of the concrete screed is checked for horizontalness. If crumbling areas are detected, the damaged material is cleaned. Then the surface is cleared of dust and a mixture for repair is prepared, usually a standard cement-sand mortar or cement-based adhesive.
Priming the coating Potholes and cracks are filled with the mixture, carefully leveled and left to dry. Then the floor is primed in two layers, using an adhesion-improving composition, for example, “Concrete Contact”. After complete drying, the surface is ready for further work.
Laying tiles in the kitchen is not an easy task. At the same time, wall and floor cladding has its own nuances and differences. In addition to the material you will need:
Any polymer-cement adhesive intended for interior work is suitable for fixing the tiles. The most famous is “Ceresit”, but it can be replaced with a cheaper domestic analogue.
Advice! If there are indelible traces of paint or other defects on the surface, it is better to purchase cementless glue.
Apply markings Let's look at how to lay tiles on walls correctly. Usually in the kitchen only open surfaces in the work area, the so-called apron, are tiled. If you also choose this option, you should mark with a horizontal line the level at which the kitchen table and sink will end. At this mark, a metal profile is secured with dowels, which will become a support for the bottom row of tiles. Before fixing, you need to check with a level that the profile is placed correctly.
Then you need to prepare an adhesive solution. To do this, the mixture is diluted with water in accordance with the instructions and mixed with a drill with a special attachment. Then the solution is allowed to brew for 10 minutes and stirred again. Laying the tiles begins immediately after mixing the adhesive.
Important! To prevent the glue from hardening on the spatula during pauses in applying the solution, the tool must always be in a bucket of water.
The adhesive mixture is applied to the tiles with a flat spatula, and then the excess is removed with a serrated tool so that even strips of mortar are obtained on the tiles. Spatulas are selected depending on the size of the material. For tiles with a side of 10 cm, use a tool with 6-8 mm teeth, and for larger ones - with 10 mm teeth.
Application of the solution To ensure that the tiles are securely connected to the wall, the material is applied in the selected place and pressed tightly evenly. The resulting result is controlled by the level and, if necessary, immediately leveled. The process is repeated until all the tiles have been laid. Crosses are installed between the rows to regulate the position of the tiles and the thickness of the seams.
Often it is not possible to cover the entire surface with solid tiles. It is better to do it with a tile cutter, but, as a last resort, you can do without it by making an incision with a glass cutter and carefully breaking the tile along the line. But this must be done carefully and, preferably, with gloves so as not to cut yourself on sharp edges. To cut more complex contours, for example, for a rosette, it is recommended to use a grinder with a diamond blade.
Correct installation will be checked by level Having chosen tiles for the kitchen floor, you first need to practice laying it without glue. By laying out the tiles in several ways, which will be described in more detail below, you can choose a more suitable and easy-to-implement pattern. If you identify places where the material needs to be trimmed, you should not do this in advance. Cutting and laying small pieces is carried out at the end, after completion of work with the main part of the coating.
Distribution of adhesive composition Having decided on the installation option, the surface is cleared of debris and an adhesive solution is prepared. Floor tiles, unlike wall tiles, are attached with a double layer of glue. The first is evenly distributed over the floor with a notched trowel, and the second (5-6 mm thick) is applied to the material with a regular trowel.
Regardless of the method, laying tiles on the floor always starts from the center of the kitchen. To make it easier to navigate, apply a marking and lay out the first four tiles along it, checking the level. The tiles should be tapped with a rubber hammer to ensure a tight fit and to remove air. Further laying of the material is carried out in a circle, starting from the first row, then the edges are lined. Crosses are installed between the rows in the same way as in the case of wall tiles.
After installation is complete, you should wait at least 3 days before starting to walk on the surface. Then the seams are treated with a grout mixture and the tiled floor is ready.
After the glue has dried and the dividing crosses have been removed, it is necessary to grout the tile joints. To do this, use a special powdered composition, which is diluted with water to a medium-thick consistency. Grout colors come in different colors, so you can match it to the cladding.
Grouting tile joints The mixture is evenly distributed over the seams using a rubber spatula or a piece of wire of a suitable diameter. The grout takes 4 hours to set, after which the excess is removed with a damp sponge or rag.
Interestingly, using grout you can further refresh an already worn tile covering. How to update old tiles in the kitchen? Very simple. Seams that have lost their color, and sometimes are affected by mold, are the main reason for the unpresentable appearance of the tiles and, if the material itself is still in good condition, it will be cheaper to update the grout.
The old mortar should be removed using a jointer or an awl, the joints between the tiles should be washed with soapy water and left to dry. Then the seams are treated with a primer and filled with a new grout mixture. Such repairs will not require large expenses, and the tiles can last much longer.
In addition to the technical side of the issue, it is worth dwelling in more detail on the decorative functions of tiles. As already mentioned, there are different methods of laying tiles; the three most popular are the classic (“seam to seam”), “in a run” and “diagonally.”
The classic version uses rectangular or square tiles, laid seam to seam. Variety in the pattern is brought by decorative elements - panels, ornaments, materials of bright colors. This method is suitable for beginner tilers due to its ease of implementation, and it also produces a minimum number of trims.
Classic version Laying "in a run" forms a pattern that resembles brickwork in appearance, and is more often used for rectangular tiles. It is recommended to choose monochromatic tiles for this pattern in calm shades. This option is more relevant in kitchens decorated in a traditional style.
Staggered laying Laying tiles diagonally opens up opportunities for implementing complex compositions and looks more interesting. The installation is quite complicated, so before gluing diagonal tiles in the kitchen, you should practice and apply markings to the walls or floor. You also need to take into account that only square material is used for this method.
There is another method, less popular due to its complexity. It combines several styling options and is called combined. The pattern is made up of blocks laid out diagonally, “staggered” and “seam to seam” (all methods are not necessarily used in one pattern). This approach requires careful thought and sketching, but if calculated correctly, the result looks professional and unusual.
In addition to experimenting with installation methods, you can diversify the design by purchasing tiles with different textures or resembling another material. This could be wood-look tiles, imitation natural stone or leather. The main thing is that the color and texture are combined with the interior and the general style direction.
Combined pattern Remember that drawing up a pattern, choosing tiles and its subsequent installation is a creative process. By choosing the right finish for walls or floors and using your imagination, you can highlight all the advantages and features of the room, and be deservedly proud of the result of your labors.
Tile is the most popular facing material for the kitchen. It meets all the technical specifications to cope with high humidity and more. This article will tell you the secrets of how to lay tiles in the kitchen yourself. First, it’s worth discussing the intricacies of creating a design.
First of all, you need to make a design project that will help you see the end result. 
When developing it, it is necessary to take into account several factors:
The amount of tiles required is determined by the area of the floor, walls, etc. Knowing the initial area, you will be able to make an accurate calculation of the material. However, there are also some nuances. 
The following points need to be taken into account:
The entire work process consists of several successive stages:
First, let's collect the necessary tools and materials for work:
Regardless of the type of surface (floor or wall), the preparation process comes down to the same steps. The old cladding should be completely removed from the wall/floor.
The tiles are laid on a clean and level surface. To do this, examine it. If there are cracks or obvious unevenness, it is recommended to level the surface and cover up the cracks.
In most cases, it is better to remove a layer of old plaster, install beacons and plaster the wall. For plastering, ready-made plaster mixtures are used. Sometimes drywall is mounted on the walls; this is the fastest way to level the surface.
If we are talking about a field, then a self-leveling mixture is used to level it. A cement-sand screed is also produced and poured along the beacons. In this case, laying tiles on the floor in the kitchen can only be done after the screed has completely dried. 
Having leveled the base under the tile, the surface must be primed to increase the quality of adhesion of the tile adhesive to the wall. A deep penetration primer is often used.
To lay the tiles yourself, markings must be done. This will help plan the masonry scheme. The markings are done with a pencil. If we are talking about a field, then you need to find the center of the room.
Make sure that there are no small scraps coming out near the walls. Make markings so that on the visible side the tiles near the wall are solid, and the trims are under the work area.
Laying tiles on drywall is easier. Plus, marking on drywall is easy. You need to secure the second row guide profile to the wall. The profile is set strictly according to the level.
At this stage, you should already know the location and option for laying tiles in the kitchen. 
The laying process is as follows:
Having laid out the entire wall, all that remains is to grout the joints with a special grouting compound.
An apron refers to the working area between the countertop and the shelves. The height of the apron should be slightly higher by 20–30 mm so that the installed set on top overlaps the edge of the top row of tiles. 
The hood is usually located above the lower level of the suspended unit. Therefore, in this place the tiles on the apron will extend slightly upward.
The process of laying an apron comes down to the following steps:
Laying floor tiles in the kitchen follows a similar sequence, but it also has its own characteristics. 
The process of laying tiles on the floor in the kitchen is carried out in the following sequence:
In addition to laying tiles in the kitchen with their own hands on the floor, walls and splashback, many decide to lay tiles on the window slopes. 
To do this, you need to purchase a plastic outer corner. The end of the cladding will be hidden in it.
The thickness of the corner is determined by the thickness of the tile. If its thickness is 7 mm, then the corner should have 9 mm. If the thickness of the corner is smaller, then the edge of the end of the tile will be visible.
Conclusion
So, here we are, looking at all the secrets of how to lay tiles in the kitchen. By following these recommendations, you will be able to cope with all the work yourself, without the involvement of a specialist. For greater confidence, we invite you to watch the prepared video material.
Putting the kitchen in order - gluing an apron
Have you decided to install new tiles in the kitchen, but you have no idea where to start this process and how to do it? Below you will receive all the necessary information that will help you lay tiles in the kitchen with your own hands, following all the technologies.
Today tiles are presented on the construction market in a huge variety of styles:
It is important to choose not only an aesthetic material, but also to choose one that has excellent technical characteristics.
Ceramic tiles are distinguished by the fact that they have a porous structure. Its top is covered with glaze. It is not suitable for the floor, but it can be glued to the walls.
Ceramic tiles are also glazed. The main disadvantage is low resistance to mechanical damage.
The most durable are porcelain stoneware tiles. Porcelain tiles are most suitable for kitchen flooring, as this material is highly wear-resistant. The main disadvantage is that there are very few color shades.
In order to lay tiles in the kitchen with your own hands according to all the rules, you will need:
Let's start choosing a variety of materials. There are many types of primer, but each of them is practically the same from each other. It must be remembered that you cannot pour the primer back into the canister if you have poured it out of it. In addition to its unsuitability, it will emit a disgusting smell.
Glue on the market is also available in huge varieties. Some recommend using only foreign compounds, others – domestic ones. Experts, for the most part, are of the opinion that domestic ones are no worse than foreign ones. The main advantage is the lower price, since there is no overpayment of extra money for the brand.
This work is carried out in several stages. Besides, There are several options for doing this:
The work begins with filling all the unevenness and cracks with putty. All protruding parts are also removed. Deep cracks and potholes must be covered with cement mortar. After this, apply the plaster and wait until it is completely dry.
Now you need to apply a deep penetration primer with your own hands. You will also need to wait for it to dry completely. After this, you can begin laying the tiles.
Each master can boast his own way of how best to lay tiles. For example, if the wall is covered with paint, then you don’t have to completely clean it off, but just make notches on it.
Initially, ceramic tiles are purchased on the construction market. To find out how much it will be needed, you need to measure the area of the kitchen walls and add about 20%, which will be spent on trimming the ceramics. These leftover materials can be placed behind the cabinets, where they will simply be invisible.
There are three ways to do it yourself lay the tiles correctly:
Once the method has been found, you can begin laying the tiles. It would be best to place one row of tiles along the kitchen walls so as not to make a mistake with the dimensions. First you need to lay the ceramics next to the windows and doors.
Ceramic tiles are, first of all, an aesthetic element in kitchen design. It needs to be selected in such a way that it organically complements the kitchen.
Plain tiles are more suitable if the room has an exquisite kitchen set. With ordinary furniture, it is best to do the opposite, that is, lay out tiles in a variety of colors.
Tiles add brightness, harmony to the kitchen and organically complement its interior. The methods of laying tiles depend on the size of the kitchen and types of furniture. It is necessary to think through all the little things in order to subsequently enjoy the comfort in this room. You have already learned how to lay tiles with your own hands from this article.
Bathroom renovations are rarely complete without replacing the tiles, especially if they have already served for 10-20 years. But, as usual, the question arises: to hire a master or do everything yourself. If you have a proven, tried-and-true tiler in mind and a certain amount of money (usually they ask for the same amount of work as the materials cost), you can hire him. Otherwise, try laying the tiles yourself. If the walls are at least relatively smooth, everything should work out without any particular difficulties. But just before laying tiles on the wall, carefully study the technology.
It starts, as usual, with choosing a tile. Just pay attention not only to her external data. You will definitely need to check its geometry, otherwise it will be difficult to work with it. If you are laying tiles for the first time, any curvature will greatly complicate the task. So, let's check:
From experience, it is worth saying that ideal parameters are extremely difficult to find. If you like it externally, there are no cobwebs of cracks or glaze defects on the surface, the edges are even, the dimensions are the same, you can take it despite some non-linearity (first point). Otherwise, you will be tired of running around the shops. What you shouldn’t do is buy tiles “to order”. How can you control its quality if you already pay for it? Take only what you hold in your hands.
Previously, tiles were laid on a cement-sand mixture, to which PVA glue or Bustilat was added. You can, of course, do it this way, but it will be more difficult. For more comfortable work, use ready-made compounds; they are also called “tile adhesive” because they contain adhesive components, which is why they sometimes say that tiles are “glued” to walls. Compositions come in two types:
Professionals mainly use dry mixtures. If necessary, they can be used to correct an imperfect wall, making the layer a little thicker or thinner. Another plus: they retain their plasticity longer, which allows adjustments to be made some time later. They work with mastic on an ideal wall and there can be no deviations here: the layer is too thin.
When choosing a tile adhesive, you can choose it for specific tasks. So there are compositions that contain additives that increase the water-repellent properties of a wall or floor. This is important in the kitchen and bathroom. There are frost-resistant ones, which will be useful if you place them in an unheated room or outside. You can find glue that has bactericidal properties: it will prevent fungi and mold from developing, which is in demand in damp rooms.
Before laying tiles on the wall, a number of preparatory measures are carried out. This is a long and unpleasant process, but it is extremely undesirable to skip it: not every master, let alone beginners, can lay tiles properly on uneven, unprepared walls.
First of all, the old coating and anything that may fall off is removed from the walls. If there are greasy stains, remove them, or simply cut off part of the plaster along with the absorbed oil. The walls are tapped with a wooden hammer, determining by the sound whether there are voids. They occur if the plaster has peeled off, but has not yet been blown out. If you stick a tile on such an area, everything will collapse under its weight. That’s why you do all these places yourself.
A flat plank is applied to the cleaned base and an assessment is made of how smooth or crooked the walls are. If the wall surface is very convex or curved, it is better to correct everything with plaster to a level. Then laying tiles on the wall will be very simple. If the walls are relatively flat, only indentations that are too large are leveled: irregularities (protrusions or holes) that are more than 5 mm. The protrusions need to be cut off, the holes should be filled with plaster mixture, the cracks should be widened, moistened and also covered with plaster.
It is advisable to treat the prepared wall with a primer. “Betonokontakt” or another composition with similar characteristics is best suited for these purposes. It penetrates to a fairly large thickness deep into the wall, connecting all the particles. After drying, the surface becomes rough, and tile adhesive “sticks” to it very well.
There are several possible starting points. To put it quite simply, you can lay out the first row right from the corner, following the floor line. But the first row will become level and without problems only if the floor is perfectly level, without any deviations. Otherwise, you will be trimming the tiles to somehow get vertical joints. As a result of these prunings, the second and all subsequent rows can “walk”. The work will be very hard and unpleasant. Therefore, it is better to spend time and mark the wall, finding the “start” points.
If you don't really care about the small pieces of tile that have to be placed in the corners and at the top, under the ceiling, you can skip this step. But if you want all the tiles to lie symmetrically, before laying the tiles on the wall, you will have to do the layout:
If it turns out that only narrow strips remain at both ends, it is advisable to redo the layout. If the middle was located in the center of the wall, try laying it out from the seam, and vice versa. It should come out better.
When placing tiles in height, the situation is slightly different. In some cases, the seam is made at a certain level. In the bathroom this is often the edge of the installed bathtub. If there are no such requirements, you can do the same: find the center, arrange (draw on the wall) the position of the tiles relative to it. This way you will find how to trim the tiles of the top and bottom rows.
There is another way to arrange it vertically: mark the first tile from the ceiling, and so on to the bottom. In this case, only the bottom row will have to be trimmed. This is not entirely correct, but the consumption of tiles is slightly less.
In any case, when calculating how to lay tiles on the wall, mark the level where the first row ends. This usually serves as a starting point. This is where the laying of tiles begins.
Based on the layout results, you have a line where the first row ends. It is at this height that a flat bar is nailed. Resting the tile on it, place the starting row, and all subsequent rows on it. The last row to be installed is the first row, into which the tiles will have to be cut.
Profiles for working with drywall are usually used as a support strip, but a flat dry block can also be used. At a given height, it is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws or dowels (depending on the wall material). To lay tiles on the wall with your own hands without problems, you need to fasten them often enough so that there is no sagging. Be sure to check that it is installed horizontally. There shouldn't be even the slightest deviation.
The technology for laying tiles on the wall is simple. It consists of several simple steps:
A few nuances about the complete process. First, the outer whole tiles (those that do not need to be trimmed) are glued to the marked places on the installed plank. When laying out, you noted their position. It is very important to set them correctly. To do this, each is checked with a level in the vertical and horizontal planes. If the geometry of the tile is ideal, you can also check the verticality/horizontalness along the edges. Then they take a long level or an even bar with a shorter level and check how evenly one beacon bar is set relative to the other. They must be in the same plane. Then, using this bar, they check whether each subsequent tile is positioned correctly.
Description is one thing, but seeing everything with your own eyes is another. The video demonstrates the technology; after watching, you will understand exactly how to lay tiles on the wall.
For those who are laying tiles on a wall for the first time, they may have questions about how thick the adhesive layer is needed. This value depends on how smooth the walls are. If they are ideal, you can apply the minimum layer allowed in the instructions for the composition. If the walls are only relatively flat, the “starting” layer can be 3-4 mm. Then, as necessary, it can slightly decrease or increase, correcting the unevenness of the wall.
There are several techniques for laying ceramic tiles. It is not always the case that glue is applied to both the tile and the wall. Some craftsmen apply the composition only to the wall, others - only to the tiles, some recommend dipping it in water before applying the glue, others do not do this. Choose the option that seems more correct to you. But it is more convenient for novice tilers when the mortar is on both the wall and the tile: it is easier to move and level it.
Manufacturers of tile adhesive advise applying it to the wall, removing excess with a notched trowel, but this means a perfectly flat base. Based on these recommendations, the cost of laying one square is calculated.
With other techniques, consumption increases by 50% or even 100%, since the wall has to be adjusted. But you should definitely listen to the prescribed sizes of the spatula teeth.
There are several ways. For small volumes and not very thick tiles, a manual tile cutter is suitable. This is a device consisting of a platform on which tiles are placed. Fusing pads are attached to the platform along which the cutter moves. The cutter moves with the help of a handle, ripping through the durable coating. A stop is usually installed on the same handle, with which the tiles are broken along the line drawn by the cutter.
Another way is with a grinder, but it is very noisy and dusty. Besides, you won’t be able to make a perfectly even cut, but it will work in case of an emergency.
If necessary, round holes are cut using a crown of a suitable diameter, which is put on a drill. During drilling, to ensure that there is as little dust as possible, the work area is constantly watered with water. The result is a perfect hole and everything looks decent.
If you need to cut a strip that is too thin, you won’t be able to do it with a tile cutter: it simply won’t break off. Then, after drawing a line with a cutting disk or rod (for some companies, the cutting element is made in the form of a rod), the thin edge is broken off. In general, there are special tongs for this, but it works well with pliers.
If the edge turns out to be very uneven, it can be smoothed out a little with a file or sandpaper attached to a block.
If the tiles are laid evenly, the internal corners do not raise any questions. Difficulties may arise only with the installation of crosses. Just turn them so that they are not in the way or break off the protruding parts. In general, they join neatly in the corners, and the final seam is formed using grout.
There are also profiles for internal corners. They are matched to the tone of the grout, installed in the corner, leveled, and then attached to self-tapping screws or dowels. When laying tiles in a corner, the tiles rest on them. This results in a finished fillet seam.
External corners are more difficult. If you simply join the tiles, overlapping the edges, it turns out ugly. To properly shape the outer corner, you have to cut the edge at 45°.
This can be done using a professional tile cutter. But not everyone has such equipment. Then you will have to work with a grinder. The first cut, at approximately the desired angle, is made with a smooth diamond disc. There should be no slits or holes in it, and the spraying should also be even.
It turns out not very smooth, and the outer edge is quite thick. But this is only preliminary processing. We bring the cut to the required parameters using a grinding attachment with the same disc. See the video for more details.
If you don’t want to bother with such trimming, there is another option - to decorate the corner with a special plastic corner.
Another video about how you can design junctions and seams when laying tiles.
To make laying wall tiles with your own hands completely clear, watch another video tutorial.
When finishing a kitchen apron with ceramic tiles, the technology is practically no different from that described above. There is simply no need to calculate the number of vertical rows. The “start” location is determined by the height of the tabletop: it should start 5-10 cm above the edge of the tile. Attach the bar at the required level, align it exactly with the horizon, and you are ready to begin.
An apron in the kitchen is usually made on the work wall. If it is not one wall, but two or three, you can start from one of the corners.
If it is laid out from small-sized tiles, the undercuts may not be very noticeable. If you want to do everything symmetrically, repeat the layout and start from the center, as described above.
