iPhone 4 and 4s are very similar in appearance and almost indistinguishable. When replacing the display (screen) assembly, the question may arise: will the display fit on the iPhone 4S from the iPhone 4? Are these displays compatible?
Display module(aka display failure) for iPhone 4 and 4S consists of:
There is a difference between the display module for iPhone 4 and 4S and this is the difference lies in the mounting frame.
In the iPhone 4 mounting frame, the top corner mounting tabs are offset, while in the iPhone 4S mounting frame, the top mounting tabs are located symmetrically at the corners.
All other components are the same and interchangeable. Those. The connection connectors (terminals and contacts) on the iPhone 4 and 4s cables are completely identical and the screen can be connected to another model.
You can purchase a display module without a frame, buy a mounting frame separately and glue (or re-glue) it onto the display, but we do not recommend doing this, because To do this, you need to make a lot of effort and the quality will be lower than the factory one.
Please note that the outgoing cables are connected to each other and if the contacts on the LCD cable (display, screen) are damaged, problems may arise with the operation of the touchscreen and vice versa. Be careful and careful when repairing your iPhone.
Many people are interested in this question and now I will try to give as complete an answer as possible. At the end of the article I will provide photographs in which you can compare the image quality on copies and on original quality modules.
The display module is a display (matrix), a touchscreen, a protective glass and a plastic glass frame assembly, it looks like this: That’s why it doesn’t matter whether your glass or the display itself is broken, the entire part changes.
Display modules are copies, also known as AAA or AAA+, by the way, everything else - A, AA and AA+ are AAA or AAA+ with minor defects. They are a display module that is completely manufactured in a third-party factory in China, from the matrix to the glass and frame.
The only advantage of such a display is its cheapness. The matrix in such modules is not original, but from a third party. This means that color rendering, contrast and brightness may be worse than on the original quality module. Typically, such matrices are inferior to the original in screen resolution, that is, this is no longer Retina display.
The touchscreen (the coating that is responsible for the reaction to pressing a finger on the screen) in such modules is either on a matrix or on glass. If it is on glass, then if the glass is damaged, the touchscreen will no longer work. Any copy will show a grid of touchscreen markings, small translucent stripes and squares; in general, this does not affect the perception of the image.
The protective display glasses that are installed on copies are not tempered and most often without an oleophobic (grease-repellent) coating, that is, they are less durable and more difficult to wipe off fingerprints and dirt from. In general, I would recommend installing a copy in three cases:
If you plan to use a phone and quality matters, then it is better to look towards the original quality display module.
They are known as Orig or Orig Ref. As we already discussed in the article, the original displays that Apple itself supplies unfortunately do not exist, but there are models that are 95% close to this quality and when used you will not see any difference.
The origin of such displays is production lines in China. Everything that is done is done in China;) These displays have the original Retina matrix installed. The Chinese take matrices either from the suppliers of the displays themselves - LG, Sharp, Toshiba, or cut them off from broken modules in which the matrix and touchscreen are not damaged. That is, the matrix and touchscreen are original.
Next, a protective glass is installed on the display. It is hardened and has an oleophobic coating, which means it is durable and as easy to clean as the original. After that, a frame with fasteners is glued to the finished module. Next, the display, after quality control, is sent for sale.
The advantages of such display modules:
The downside is their cost. But I don’t consider this to be any serious disadvantage, since the difference in price between the copy and the original is only 1,000 rubles, it’s normal not even to go to the store :)
Therefore, if you plan to continue using the phone, quality matters to you and your funds allow, then it is better to install displays of original quality. In any case, I would install a module of original quality for myself.
Fair, not overpriced and not underestimated. There should be prices on the Service website. Necessarily! without asterisks, clear and detailed, where technically possible - as accurate and conclusive as possible.
If spare parts are available, up to 85% of complex repairs can be completed in 1-2 days. Modular repairs require much less time. The website shows the approximate duration of any repair.
Warranty and responsibility
A guarantee must be given for any repairs. Everything is described on the website and in the documents. The guarantee is self-confidence and respect for you. A 3-6 month warranty is good and sufficient. It is needed to check quality and hidden defects that cannot be detected immediately. You see honest and realistic terms (not 3 years), you can be sure that they will help you.
Half the success in Apple repair is the quality and reliability of spare parts, so a good service works directly with suppliers, there are always several reliable channels and your own warehouse with proven spare parts for current models, so you don’t have to waste extra time.
Free diagnostics
This is very important and has already become a rule of good manners for the service center. Diagnostics is the most difficult and important part of the repair, but you don't have to pay a penny for it, even if you don't repair the device based on its results.
Service repairs and delivery
A good service values your time, so it offers free delivery. And for the same reason, repairs are carried out only in the workshop of a service center: correctly and according to technology can only be done in a prepared place.
Convenient schedule
If the Service works for you, and not for yourself, then it is always open! absolutely. The schedule should be convenient to fit in before and after work. Good service works on weekends and holidays. We are waiting for you and working on your devices every day: 9:00 - 21:00
The reputation of professionals consists of several points
Company age and experience
Reliable and experienced service has been known for a long time.
If a company has been on the market for many years and has managed to establish itself as an expert, people turn to it, write about it, and recommend it. We know what we are talking about, since 98% of incoming devices in the service center are restored.
Other service centers trust us and refer complex cases to us.
How many masters in areas
If there are always several engineers waiting for you for each type of equipment, you can be sure:
1. there will be no queue (or it will be minimal) - your device will be taken care of right away.
2. you give your Macbook for repair to an expert in the field of Mac repairs. He knows all the secrets of these devices
Technical literacy
If you ask a question, a specialist should answer it as accurately as possible.
So that you can imagine what exactly you need.
They will try to solve the problem. In most cases, from the description you can understand what happened and how to fix the problem.
Use this guide to replace your iPhone 4's cracked or damaged display.
All the necessary parts and tools are included in the DIY replacement kit, which you can purchase in our store.
Tools:
Step 1
Before disassembling your iPhone, make sure it is turned off.
Your iPhone 4 back cover can be secured with either two #000 Phillips screws or two Pentalobe screws (second image). Check what screws you have and choose the right screwdriver to remove them.
Remove the two 3.6mm Pentalobe or Phillips #000 screws next to the power connector.
The pentagonal screwdriver must be used very carefully, as it can strip the threads on the screws.
Step 2
Press the back panel with your fingers and pull it towards the top edge of the device.
The panel will move approximately 2 mm.
Step 3
Pinch the back panel with your fingers and remove it from the mobile, or alternatively use a small suction cup.
Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the back panel.
If you are installing a new backplate, be sure to remove the plastic protective sticker on the inside of the camera lens and the sticker from the large black area next to the lens.
Step 4
Remove the one 2.5mm Phillips screw holding the battery connector to the board.
Some devices may have two screws, one of which binds the pad, which is located above the screw indicated in red in the photo.
Step 5
Using a plastic tool, carefully pry the battery connector cover up and away from the socket on the board.
Be very careful to lift only the battery cable, not the connector on the board. If you lift the connector, you may tear it completely off.
Remove the metal clip covering the antenna connector.
Step 6
Pull the plastic tab to remove the battery from the device.
Do not remove the plastic tab from the device.
You may need to use a plastic tool to loosen the adhesive under the battery.
Remove contact clamp from the device.
Before reconnecting the battery connector, make sure the terminal clip (highlighted in red) is correctly positioned next to the battery connector.
Before assembly, it is necessary to clean all metal parts of the clamping contacts, as well as the connecting parts, from grease (for example, with Windex). Oil from your fingers can cause battery problems.
Use the SIM eject tool (or a paper clip) to remove the SIM card.
This may require significant effort.
Remove the SIM card and its frame.
Step 8
Remove the following screws:
Remove the thin steel cover of the power cable.
Before assembly, it is necessary to clean all metal parts of the steel lid from grease (for example, with Windex). Oil from your fingers can cause interference.
Step 9
Using a plastic tool, carefully lift up and disconnect the power cable from the motherboard at the two short ends of the connector.
Step 10
Carefully Slide the power ribbon cable away from the motherboard and bottom speakers.
Do not use excessive force to move the cable. This may cause it to rupture.
Step 11
Use a plastic tool to separate the bottom antenna connector from the socket on the motherboard.
Step 12
Remove the 1.9mm Phillips screw attaching the bottom of the logic board to the inner case.
Step 13
Remove the following five screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the motherboard:
When assembling, start with the 4.8mm Philips screw and then move to the 2.3mm screw. This is necessary so as not to confuse and damage the train.
Also make sure that the 4.8mm Philips screw is installed correctly during assembly. It is the base for the Wi-Fi antenna and is often the culprit for poor Wi-Fi reception after assembly.
Step 14
Use the plastic opening tool to slightly lift the top edge of the Wi-Fi antenna away from the motherboard.
Carefully Pull the Wi-Fi antenna latches away from the inner frame. This can be done with a fingernail, the tip of a utility knife, or tweezers.
Remove the Wi-Fi antenna from the device. Be sure to make sure that the metal latches on the top of the cover where the 4.8mm screw is attached, and the 4.8mm screw itself, are not lost. This is the main reason for Wi-Fi not working after assembly.
Before assembly, it is necessary to clean all metal parts of the steel cover in contact with the connectors from grease (for example, with Windex). Oil from your fingers can cause interference. The connectors themselves cannot be cleaned with this product!
Step 15
Using the opening tool, carefully lift the rear camera connector up from its socket on the motherboard.
Remove the rear camera.
Step 16
Remove small round white sticker(warranty sticker and water indicator) covering the screw near the battery tab.
Remove the 2.4mm Phillips screw that was hidden under the sticker.
Step 17
Using the tip of the opening tool, carefully disconnect the following cables from the board:
Step 18
Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the 4.8mm fastener near the headphone jack.
When assembling the device, this fastener will set the height of the Wi-Fi shield removed in step 13. If not tightened, the shield will be higher than desired and the back panel will not be able to be installed as in step 2. The shield should be flush with the headphone jack.
When assembling the motherboard, make sure that the edge of the motherboard is under the circled fasteners, otherwise the screws will not fit.
When reassembling, make sure that the small rubber pad is attached to the top of the motherboard. Without this part, the motherboard may damage the cables near it.
Step 19
Carefully remove the motherboard from the iPhone, being mindful of any cables you may encounter.
Be careful not to damage the small gold prong (marked in red, at the top of the device), it is very fragile.
When assembling, be careful not to cover the bottom antenna cable under the motherboard.
Step 20
Remove one 2.4mm Phillips screw securing the speaker to the frame.
Step 21
Remove the Speaker from the device.
Before reattaching the speaker housing to the inner frame, ensure that the four small EMI pins are below the edge of the display frame.
Before assembly, all metal-to-metal contacts between the EMI pins and the inner frame, as well as the brass screw groove, must be cleaned of grease. Oil from the fingers can cause interference with operation.
Step 22
Remove the following two screws securing the vibrator to the inner frame:
Remove the vibrator from the device.
Step 23
Remove the 1.5mm Phillips screw securing the front panel next to the headphone jack.
Step 24
Remove the three 1.5mm large-head Phillips screws along the side of the volume button.
Step 25
Remove the 1.5mm Phillips screw near the microphone.
Step 26
Remove the 1.5mm Phillips screw next to the power connector ribbon cable.
Step 27
Remove the three 1.5mm Phillips screws from the side of the SIM card.
Keep an eye on the washers under each screw.
Tip: You don’t have to completely unscrew the screws around the perimeter of the case, but only loosen them by 2/3; this should be enough to subsequently separate the screen from the case.
Remove the 1.5mm Phillips screw near the rear camera.
Step 28
Carefully insert the edge of the opening tool between the rubber frame of the front glass panel and the steel inner frame.
Do not try to insert the tool between the glass and the rubber frame.
Carefully bend the top edge of the front panel away from the steel frame.
Step 29
Slowly and carefully lift the top edge of the front panel away from the steel frame.
Continue to pull the front panel away from the steel frame until it slowly begins to separate from the adhesive underneath the Home button area.
Carefully pull the bottom edge of the module away from the steel inner frame.
Be careful! If the Home button sticks to the front panel, you may break its cable.
Do not turn the module over or remove it completely from the frame. This may damage the cable.
If the glass is cracked, removing the panel may cause it to bend, causing small pieces to fly off. Before you do this step, cover the front glass with film, then remove it over the trash can. Wearing safety glasses is also a smart move.
Step 30
Disconnect the cable and carefully remove it from the steel frame.
Before attaching the front panel to the steel frame, make sure that the ribbon cable is not folded or stuck between the inner frame and the front panel. This may damage it.
When the front panel is installed correctly, the sensor cable and display cable should be in close proximity to each other, the same length, and should just hang over the steel frame.
Make sure the cables are not stuck between the screen and frame.
When replacing a module, you should remember that you may have to use the speaker grille and clear plastic ring around the front camera from the old/damaged module. This will depend on the configuration of the new part.
Below we have tried to present the differences in display quality classes as simply and clearly as possible. After reading this article, you will be able to distinguish original iPhone display from a copy. This material is presented for informational purposes only and is based on our experience working with spare parts for Apple. The material contains real photos of products sold in our online store.
Advparts is not responsible for the quality and consumer characteristics of spare parts, and also does not guarantee the quality of spare parts purchased from THIRD PARTY organizations based on the information read in this material.
In total, there are 3 classes of displays in our store: Original removed, Original restored and AAA. Read more about quality classes in spare parts
From the user's perspective on replica displays:
When producing copies, a different technology is used.
Original (removed and restored): The original display and touch grid are assembled, with protective glass installed on top.
AAA: The display copy is made separately; instead of protective glass, touch glass is installed. The display and touch glass are supplied assembled.
As you know, Apple itself does not supply components for iPhones. Therefore, all original displays are removed or refurbished parts.
Captured displays are available for iPhone 7 and later. This is a 100% original display taken from a new device. No differences from your original display.
Restored originals are produced in factories. Factories receive displays with broken front glass and undamaged displays. Using special factory equipment, the front glass, frame, and, as a rule, the display backlight are replaced. The procedure takes place in sterile rooms; the slightest violation of the technological process leads to the rejection of a large number of displays. It is impossible to carry out restoration at home.
For the iPhone 4 and 4S, the main difference will be the thickness of the glass in the area of the Home button (in the original, the glass in the Home area is noticeably thicker).
For iPhone 5, 5C, 5S and SE
Difference 1 (mandatory).
The thickness of the glass in the area of the Home button (the originals are thicker).
In copies, in the area of the Home button under the glass (on the back of the display), there may be a special pad that prevents the Home button pusher from falling in.
Difference 2
Difference 3 (optional, depends on the recovery technology).
The presence of the Apple logo in the upper left corner on the back of the original.
The absence of a rainbow rim and logo is not an indicator of a copy, BUT their presence indicates that this is an original display.
For iPhone 6, 6 Plus, 6S, 6S Plus, 7 and 7 Plus we sell original displays and AAA.
Difference 1 (mandatory).
The thickness of the glass in the area of the Home button (in the originals it is a little thicker).
Difference 2 (mandatory).
The presence of the Apple logo on the display cables (both restored and removed). Please note that on displays for the iPhone 7 series, the “apples” are located on the closed part of the cable (adjacent to the backlight).
Difference 3 (optional for restored ones, depends on the restoration technology).
The presence of a rainbow rim on the original in the area of the light sensor.
Difference 4 (optional, depends on the recovery technology).
The presence of the Apple logo on the back of the original display.
Difference 5 (mandatory for removed ones, optional for restored ones, depends on the restoration technology).
Availability of grease-repellent coating. As a rule, original refurbished displays of iPhone 6 and higher have an oleophobic coating, but this is not mandatory.
Important! The absence of a rainbow rim and logo is not an indicator of a copy, BUT their presence indicates that this is an original display.
If you have any questions, you can contact us by phone, e-mail or through the feedback form.
