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» How to clean a heating circulation pump. Causes of noise in the circulation pump. How to prepare circulation pumps for the winter heating season

How to clean a heating circulation pump. Causes of noise in the circulation pump. How to prepare circulation pumps for the winter heating season

In a forced circulation heating system, the heart is the circulation pump. The presence of heating and its quality depend on its stable operation. The same applies to closed hot water supply systems with a constant flow of water in the pipes between the boiler and the storage tank. During operation, the question inevitably arises of how to service and repair the circulation pump so that it continues to operate stably and without failure.

For normal operation of the pump, the following measures must be taken:

  • Correct operation taking into account all the rules established by the pumping equipment manufacturer.
  • Pump prevention and maintenance.
  • Diagnostics and repair in case of pump failure.

The more accurately the operating rules are followed and the more regularly the pump is serviced, the less often you will have to think about repairing or replacing it.

Correct operation

A number of simple requirements apply to any circulation pump:

  • Do not allow the pump to idle in the absence of water. Applies to both wet and dry pump types.
  • The pump should not be allowed to operate with the water flow stopped, for example, if the valve before or after the pump is closed.
  • The optimal operating mode should be determined taking into account the maximum and minimum throughput of the equipment.
  • It is important to comply with the manufacturer’s requirements for the nominal water pressure in the system.
  • The coolant temperature should not exceed 65°C. Therefore, the circulation pump is installed on the return line in front of the boiler, where the cooled water flows. When a given threshold is exceeded, the process of deposition of hardness salts on the internal surfaces of the pump accelerates many times over.
  • Long periods of downtime should not be allowed. About once every month or two, it is advisable to turn on the pump for 15 minutes. If this is not done, then the risk of shaft jamming increases during the oxidation process.
  • It is unacceptable to use a circulation pump to pump dirty water containing dense particles in suspension. A coarse filter must be installed, or the purity of the water or coolant is monitored in other ways.

In operating mode, the pump must have a uniform sound of the operating drive and a constant output pressure value, which is monitored by an installed pressure gauge. If handled well, even the simplest circulation pump can operate for up to 5 years until its main elements wear out.

Design

Almost all circulation pumps are centrifugal type. They have an impeller mounted on the motor shaft and placed in a special “shell” chamber. The entrance to the shell is located in the center, while the exit is the outer edge of the shell with a channel extending around the circumference in the direction of movement of the impeller. The engine spins the impeller, and water, under the influence of centripetal force, rushes from the center to the edges of the sink from inlet to outlet.


Pump structural elements:

  • pump part, sink and impeller mounted on the shaft;
  • electric motor;
  • electronic control unit.

The most susceptible to wear is the moving part of the pump - the motor shaft and impeller, as well as the bearings on which they are mounted.

Prevention and Maintenance

Long service life and trouble-free operation are possible only if proper operating conditions and regular maintenance of the pump are observed. Maintenance means periodic inspection and cleaning of the pump. Inspection for abnormalities in operation should be carried out at least once a quarter, that is, twice during the heating season. It is advisable to perform cleaning every two to three years, depending on the quality of the water and the conditions in which the pump operates.

During the entire period of operation, it is advisable to periodically check the operation of the pump:

  • Connections are checked for leaks. If identified, gaskets and seals (tow, FUM tape, etc.) are replaced.
  • The presence and condition of grounding is visually checked.
  • The sound of a running engine should not be accompanied by clangs, knocks, or extraneous sounds.
  • The engine should not vibrate much.
  • The pressure in the line is checked and its compliance with the nominal one.
  • The housing must be clean and dry. If this is not the case, then you should carry out external cleaning, check the electronic unit for flooding and eliminate the reason why the pump is wet.

Approximately every two to three years, it is advisable to clean the pump, including all its elements. This only applies to models that can be disassembled. There are pumps with a pressed or solid, welded casing that does not require repair or disassembly. Such units fail and are then replaced with a new assembly. It is advisable to entrust this work to a service center. However, if you have the skills and tools, you can do everything yourself

Required:

  • hex wrench;
  • slotted screwdriver (flat) 4 and 8 mm;
  • Phillips screwdriver.

Before disassembling the pump, drain the water from the system or drain a separate area in which the pump is involved, dismantle it and then begin disassembly.

Procedure:

  1. Using a hex wrench or Phillips screwdriver, unscrew 4-6 bolts around the perimeter of the engine housing at the junction with the shell of the pump part.
  2. Remove the shell, leaving the impeller on the rotor shaft along with the engine.
  3. Locate four drainage holes around the perimeter. Using a narrow slotted screwdriver, pry the jacket of the engine compartment under the impeller little by little around the perimeter. As a result, the shaft with the rotor and impeller will come out of the grooves and stator shell. You can help yourself by unscrewing the protective plug on the outside of the pump, inserting a screwdriver into the slot at the end of the shaft and lightly knocking the shaft out of the support bearing.

The analysis is now complete. Now you should clean the surface of the rotor, impeller and the inner surface of the shell from plaque and scale, if any, without damaging the surface of the parts. It is not permissible to use a coarse abrasive. It is better to use a brush with hard polymer bristles. Cleaning products containing a weak solution of hydrochloric acid can help. As a last resort, the finest sandpaper is used - “zero”.

For glandless pumps, it is important to check the cleanliness of the channel inside the shaft and the drainage holes located in the protective jacket separating the area of ​​the pump part and the motor. The fluid enters the rotor precisely through these holes and then returns through the internal channel; if they are clogged, engine cooling suffers.

For pumps with dry rotor Waterproofing the support bearing is important. If a leak is detected from the pump block to the stator block, then all gaskets and seals inside the device should be completely replaced.

The condition of the bearings on which the shaft rests is checked. If they are already quite broken, they will need to be replaced, which is extremely difficult to do at home; you will have to contact a service center.

All seals and gaskets inside the pump should be checked for wear and replaced with new ones if necessary. Once all elements have been cleaned and checked, reassembly is carried out in reverse order.


Circulation pump needs cleaning

Troubleshooting

Based on how the pump operates, sound, vibration or changes in pressure, outlet pressure, it is necessary to accurately determine the malfunction and eliminate the cause.

Symptom of malfunction Probable Cause Repair
The pump makes sounds after switching on, but the shaft does not rotate Shaft oxidation due to prolonged inactivity Unscrew the protective cap from the end of the shaft on the motor housing and manually turn the motor shaft using a slotted screwdriver.
Blocking by a foreign object Disassemble the pump block with the impeller and clean it, check the condition of the coarse filter installed in front of the pump
Power problems Check the voltage rating in the network and correct the problem if necessary.
After applying voltage, the pump does not start and does not make any sounds. No actual voltage on power line Check the power line and the condition of the circuit breakers
The fuse in the control unit has tripped Replace fuse
The pump turns off after a short period of operation Limescale deposits in the stator cup Clean the stator cup and motor rotor
Strong extraneous noise when the pump is running Dry running, presence of air in pipes Release the air. Drain the pump shell and fill with water.
Cavitation Increase the pressure in the supply line.
Pump vibration Support bearing wear Replacing bearings
Reduction of pressure and flow in comparison with the passport data Abnormality in the power supply to the pump, phase change, resulting in a decrease in pump power or a change in the direction of rotation of the impeller For three-phase motors, the quality of all phases is checked. For single-phase power supply, check the capacitor and replace if necessary
High hydraulic resistance of the circulation circuit Check the filters, increase the cross-section of the pipes, check the condition of the shut-off valves.
Triggering of external protection on the pump power line Problems with the electrical part of the pump Check the condition of the terminals for short circuits, check the capacitor and the control unit. Check the stator windings. Their resistance should not be lower than the rated value.

Repair

It is best to take a broken circulation pump to a specialized service center, especially if it is still under warranty. Most of the models currently on the market, unfortunately, are non-separable or partially disassembled, so if problems arise with its internal spare parts, entire units or the pump assembly must be replaced. If the warranty period has already expired, and the design of the pump allows you to disassemble it and get to all the main components, then, if you have the appropriate skills, you can carry out the repair yourself.

Having determined the cause of the malfunction from the table above, it is enough to disassemble the pump, as indicated in the paragraph on prevention and maintenance, and replace the faulty part.

The main elements in the pump control unit are:

  • 1-5 microfarad capacitor;
  • terminal block for connection;
  • speed controller.

Due to the small capacitance of the capacitor, you can check it using a multimeter, which has a built-in C-meter with a limit of up to 20 µF. If the readings deviate significantly from the nominal value, the capacitor should be replaced; it is important to maintain the polarity of the connection and be sure to have its voltage tolerance. For a conventional single-phase motor, capacitors with a tolerance of up to 450 V are used.

The speed controller assembly is replaced with a new one. It is enough to disconnect it from the terminals, remembering the position of each pin and connect a new one.

The terminal block must be perfectly clean, dry and without signs of obvious overheating or burnt. If the above problems exist, then it should be replaced with a new one, the same or similar in the number of connections.

Popular models of circulation pumps are from the manufacturers Wilo, Ggrundfos, Dab. Not least due to their reliability. You can expect these pumps to break down within the warranty period only if the recommended operating conditions are violated. However, during the post-warranty period, Wilo often has problems with support bearings. Only replacing them helps.

Ggrundfos and Dab can “please” the impeller to become overgrown with scale for high-temperature heating systems, as well as silting of the stator cup. It is better to prevent these problems by installing a good filter and preparing the water. Otherwise, breakdowns are often justified by external problems.

The circulation pump fulfills the requirements for circulating the coolant throughout the entire heating system. The use of this device will improve the heating performance and increase the productivity of the system.

In installation options for pumping equipment, you can select pipes with a smaller diameter, which makes it possible to save money.

Read: about the use of circular pumps in a heating system.

Dry and wet view of the device

Such pumps are divided into the following types: with a “dry” and “wet” rotor. In the first version, the motor of the pumping device is placed in a separate module, and the rotor rotates through a clutch.

There is a noise during operation.

Why is the heating pump humming?

Dry type equipment performs screening through the operation of a fan that cools the motor. This device is used in large houses. In them it is installed in an individual room.

Wet-type devices operate with a low noise level, since the rotor is immersed in a thermal fluid that cools the operating motor. This device can be placed near residential premises. The noise setting will not cause any inconvenience.

Other causes of humming

If the noise does not appear from the operation of the fan, then why is the heating circulation pump humming? The reasons may be:

In practice, the hum of a device can be caused by design properties, in other words, it is natural noise during operation, or a hum of a different nature that appears already during operation.

Malfunctions of the circulation pump may occur as a result of its heating.

Reasons for pump heating

Heating can occur while the motor is running; naturally, cooling is designed for this either with a heat carrier or with a fan. Excessive heating is possible from stopping the rotation of the rotor. In case of any problems, you need to disassemble the device; if it is impossible to remove the problem without outside help, contact a professional.

We hope that the publication was useful to you, and you will be able to remove the causes of the noise with your own hands. We will be grateful if you share the material on social networks.



Do-it-yourself circulation pump repair - step-by-step instructions

Circulation pumping devices are very popular among owners of private houses and summer residents. The range of pumping equipment is quite wide, but the general principles of the device are the same. Such equipment can stop due to minor breakdowns, for example: what to do? Should I take my broken pump to a service center? This costs money, and in many regions there are simply no service companies. Therefore, the economic owner of the house must know how to install.

To understand how to independently disassemble, maintain, and repair a circulation pump, you need to know its structure. Such equipment is arranged as follows:

  • all components and mechanisms are located in body, which is made of steel (mostly stainless), aluminum and other alloys;
  • located inside the case electric motor with rotor;
  • a wheel with wings is installed on the rotor - impeller, which is usually made from technical polymers.

Operating principle of circulation pumps

After turning on the electrical circuit, the engine begins to rotate the rotor with the impeller mounted on it. Liquid is supplied to the central part of the pump. The blades rotate and throw water or other coolant towards the outside of the housing. Under the influence of centrifugal forces, the liquid moves and enters the outlet pipe of the pump.

Types of circulation pumps

There are currently two main types of circulation pump devices on the market.

  1. "Wet type"— in such equipment the rotor is completely immersed in the pumped liquid. A significant advantage of this configuration is the cooling of rubbing and heating parts by contact with liquid. Such equipment is quieter and costs less. When installing it, it is necessary to maintain the housing position specified by the manufacturer (usually horizontal), since the rotor must be completely immersed in the liquid. Also, “wet-type” devices are easier to maintain, but are very sensitive to the lack of liquid in the system (operating “dry” can quickly damage the pump).
  2. "Dry type"– in such devices, the pump motor is placed in a separate compartment or module, and torque is transmitted to the rotor through a drive device (clutch). Dry type pumps are more efficient, but also have a more complex design. A “dry” pump can operate without damage even in the absence of fluid in the system, but such operation will lead to increased wear of the drive.

How to use it correctly

In order to avoid having to disassemble and repair your equipment once again, it must be used correctly.

  1. Never turn on the pumping device without liquid in the heating pipes.
  2. Keep the volume of water pumped within operating specifications. Exceeding or decreasing the volume of pumped water relative to the indicators specified in the technical data sheet is unacceptable. If the pump is designed to pump from 5 to 100 liters of water per hour, pumping 3 or 103 liters of water will wear it out a lot.
  3. If your pump is idle for a long time, then turn it on for about a quarter of an hour once a month. This will help prevent oxidation of moving parts and subsequent damage.
  4. Maintain the temperature in water supply pipes no more than 65 degrees. If the temperature of the coolant exceeds, sediment can damage the moving parts of the pumping device. Water temperatures above 65 degrees (for example, 70-80°C) contribute to rapid wear of equipment.

How to carry out regular pump maintenance?

From time to time, preferably at least once a month, it is necessary to carry out an external inspection and check the quality operation of your circulation pump device.

  1. Turn on the pump and in operating mode, check for any extraneous noise or excessive vibration.
  2. Check the coolant pressure supplied by the pump. It must correspond to the indicators stated in the technical data sheet.
  3. Make sure that the electric motor of the device does not become overheated.
  4. Check the presence of grease on the threaded flanges and, if necessary, restore it.
  5. Make sure there is a ground connection between the pump housing and the appropriate terminal.
  6. Inspect the pump from all sides and make sure there are no leaks. Typically, such vulnerable points are the interface between the pipeline and the housing of the pumping device. Check the tightening level of the bolts and the normal condition of the gaskets.
  7. Inspect the terminal box. All wires must be securely fixed. The presence of moisture in the unit is unacceptable.

How can you eliminate typical circulation pump malfunctions?

There are a number of typical faults in circulation pumping devices that you can fix yourself. Each block will describe the symptoms of a malfunction, its causes and steps to do it yourself.

The pump is humming, there is no rotation

The reason may be oxidation of the motor shaft during prolonged inactivity of the pump. Troubleshooting instructions.

  1. We remove water from the pump and pipelines adjacent to it.
  2. We dismantle the electric motor complete with rotor.
  3. We turn the rotor by hand or with a screwdriver, resting against the working notch.

The next reason for this malfunction may be entry of foreign objects.

  1. Turn off the power to the equipment.
  2. We remove water from the pump and pipelines.
  3. Remove the screws securing the housing and the electric motor.
  4. We remove the foreign object.
  5. We protect the pump inlet pipe with a strainer.

Also, the reason for the lack of rotation may be lack of power supply. To do this, we use a tester to check the presence of power at the terminals in the box and the correct connection of the electrical wires.

The pump does not hum or rotate

The main reason for this malfunction may be lack of power supply or insufficient voltage in the network. To eliminate it, you need to use a tester to check the voltage at the terminals and, if necessary, whether the device is connected correctly to the power supply.

Many electric pumps are equipped with a fuse. During power surges, it burns out and requires replacement.

The pump starts working, but stops after a while

The cause of this malfunction may be the deposition of limescale between the stator and the rotating rotor. The malfunction can be eliminated by dismantling the electric motor and cleaning it of limestone deposits.

The pump makes a lot of noise when turned on

The cause of this malfunction may be the presence of air in the heating system pipeline. To eliminate it, you need to bleed the air from the pipes. To automatically release air, it is recommended to install an automatic unit in the upper segment of the pipeline.

If a sharp noise is accompanied by increased vibration, it is recommended to increase the pressure at the inlet to the pumping device. Insufficient pressure can be compensated by increasing the coolant level in the system.

The pump vibrates a lot

The cause of such a malfunction is usually severe wear of the bearing that ensures the rotation of the impeller. The malfunction is eliminated by replacing the worn bearing.

What to do if the pump produces insufficient pressure?

The cause of such a defect may be the wrong direction of rotation of the wheel with blades. The cause of this phenomenon is usually an incorrectly connected phase when connecting three-phase equipment.

Also, a decrease in pressure can be caused by increased viscosity of the coolant, then the impeller encounters too much resistance. To eliminate it, it is necessary to clean the filter on the inlet pipe from deposits, check the cross-section of the incoming pipeline and set the necessary pump adjustment parameters.

What to do if the pump stops after starting?

Most likely, the cause of such a malfunction may be incorrect connection of the wires according to the phases in the terminal box. The fuse on your pump may not be tight enough. Remove it and clean the clamps.

How to prepare circulation pumps for the winter heating season

In order for your unit to operate smoothly throughout the cold season, it is necessary to carry out routine maintenance before the start of the heating season.

  1. Check that the pump is connected correctly to the heating piping network. Pumping equipment must be installed in a place in the irrigation network where there is minimal possibility of air pockets forming. It is rational to place it on the return line, in front of the heating boiler.
  2. Before use make sure that all connecting elements of the network have retained their tightness. To prevent the gasket from drying out, the inlet and outlet pipes are coated with a preservative lubricant during breaks in operation.
  3. Check the condition of the filter in front of the pump inlet. Replace or clean it if necessary.
  4. Check that the device is properly connected to the power supply. Not only the density of the contacts on the terminal box and the serviceability of the fuse are checked, but also the correct connection of the phases and the operating voltage in the network. The best way to check these characteristics is with a tester.
  5. Before starting to operate the heating circulation pump, be sure to perform a test run, which must confirm the complete tightness of the system and the serviceability of all its components and equipment.

How to dismantle and disassemble a circulation pump

If, during a test run of the equipment, shortcomings of the pumping device are identified that cannot be eliminated without dismantling and disassembling it, you will have to perform the following operations.

  1. At the preparatory stage, the pumping equipment is de-energized. When installing the pump, a bypass is built into the pipeline system - a heating bypass pipe. During normal operation it closes. During long-term repairs, it may be necessary to connect an additional pumping device to the system.
  2. Unscrew the shut-off valves securing the pump and remove it.

Dismantling the pump before repair is especially necessary if your heating pipelines are made of metal-plastic. Repairs “on the fly” can damage such pipes.

Disassembling the circulation pump

When seriously repairing pumping equipment, it is necessary not only to dismantle it, but also to disassemble it. It is performed in the following sequence.

  1. The circulation pump cover is fixed to the housing using bolts. These can be screws for a Phillips screwdriver or hexagon. During operation, the bolts may “stick”. This problem can be solved with the help of specialized aerosols, also called “liquid key”. It is applied to the bolt and after a few minutes it can be easily unscrewed.
  2. Remove the cover. In front of us is a rotor with a rotor with a wheel with blades attached to it. Usually it is held on by clamps or bolts. Remove it and you will gain access to the “insides” of the pumping equipment.
  3. Inspect the pump, determine the faulty unit and replace it.

Self-repair of circulation pumps should be carried out only after the end of the warranty period or if it is impossible to obtain qualified technical assistance. A number of pump components are quite difficult to find on the open market. This is usually caused by the manufacturers' trade policies, so be prepared for the fact that in some cases it is cheaper to purchase new equipment rather than repair broken equipment.

To learn more about circulation pump repair technologies, watch the training video.

Video - Do-it-yourself circulation pump repair, step-by-step instructions

Noise during operation of the circulation pump is a cause for concern. If this is related to the heating system, you should figure out the cause of the increased hum as quickly as possible.

Causes of hum

Increased noise may be due to the following reasons:

  • due to fan operation. If you buy a circulation pump for heating with a so-called “dry” rotor, increased noise is built into its design: the engine is cooled by a fan, which creates an additional hum. Such equipment is not intended for installation in close proximity to residential premises. Installation errors occur. They are associated with the incompetence of the contractor or individual developer when installing heating systems, when only the high performance of the pump is taken into account and other properties are neglected;
  • the occurrence of the cavitation process. As a result of air leaks, bubbles form in the heating system. When they burst, they create noise. The process is intensified many times over and a shock wave appears, which causes the pipes to vibrate;
  • wear of rotating pump parts. Over time, increased gaps appear in the mating elements as a result of mechanical wear. Vibration and noise appear. This mainly concerns the pump impeller and bearings;
  • burning and rupture of electric motor windings. As a result of such a malfunction, a current is induced in the rotor, causing a hum characteristic of transformers during their operation. The principle, in any case, is absolutely similar.

Eliminating the causes of increased buzzing

A thoughtful approach to choosing is the first thing to do. You should not chase a high-power pump, especially an air-cooled one. Any of those offered by the industry is capable of raising a column of water to a height of nine meters, which is quite enough for low-rise housing construction. Even if you are nearby, you may not hear his work. For this purpose, in some cases, a light indication of the on state is placed.

It is necessary to strictly comply with the requirements when installing a circulation pump with a “wet” rotor. It is cooled by the pumped liquid. Efficient performance is achieved with a horizontal engine rotor. Deviation from the rule leads to increased wear of equipment and noise.

Air in the system can appear for several reasons:

  • violation of tightness of interfaces;
  • during water replenishment;
  • as a result of biological and chemical decomposition of organic and inorganic elements in water.

Periodic checking of connections, creating initial pressure in the system by installing a pressure tank, monitoring water quality and bleeding air through special technological plugs are sufficient conditions for getting rid of increased noise during pump operation.

Pumps are the most important part of forced circulation heating systems. Depending on their location in the heating system, they are responsible for the temperature of radiators or heated floors, forcing the coolant to circulate from the boiler through all heating circuits, thereby giving the residents of the house warmth and comfort. But then something bad happened - the pump broke. The eternal question immediately arises - what to do? Should I take it to a heating pump repair shop, try to fix it myself, or immediately buy and install a new circulation pump?

There is no definite answer to this question - it all depends on the nature of the breakdown and your desire to repair the heating pump.

We list the problems that can be fixed when repairing heating pumps at home, with your own hands.
Such defects in the operation of circulation pumps include:

  • Pump doesn't work
  • The pump does not pump coolant
  • Low pump performance
  • Increased noise when supplying coolant to the heat exchanger
  • Increased noise in the pump

Let's start with an analysis of the reasons why your pump does not work at all.

  • Weak power supply. As in the case of electric heated floors (“Repair of electric heated floors”), to solve the problem you need to initially select a pump that operates at reduced voltage values ​​(if you find one). Another option is to install a voltage stabilizer. It happens that pumps do not work for the simple reason of lack of voltage in the network.
  • A fairly common problem among pumps that have been operating for several years is the presence of deposits on various parts of the pump. Solution options are to carefully, with minimal force, unlock the rotor with a screwdriver or briefly switch the rotor to rotate at maximum frequencies.
  • Pump jamming due to clogging with solid particles/objects, as well as operation in conditions different from those specified in the pump passport. Suggested solutions are to remove foreign objects and select another pump with suitable usage characteristics.
  • Failure of various pump parts (capacitor, power cable, motor). Installed by measuring resistance. Eliminated by replacing the faulty part with a working one. If it is not practical or there is no suitable part, purchase a new pump.
  • Triggering of protective devices. After identifying the problem and fixing it in the electrical panel, the blocking of the triggered protective device is removed.

So, we have successfully repaired the heating pump and managed to get it working!

The next problem that happens with household heating pumps is usually formulated as follows: “... the pump seems to be working, but does not pump the coolant...”.

What's the matter here? And the problem is hidden in four types of possible problems.

  • Coolant saturation with air or coolant leakage. Eliminated by identifying and repairing cracks and holes in the pipeline.
  • The heating system is not adjusted correctly. The problem is solved by checking the correct position of all taps (especially before the pump). Perhaps the coolant simply does not reach the pump.
  • No water. The problem is similar to the previous one. This can be solved by supplying coolant to the pump.
  • Valve stuck or blocked in closed position. This also happens. To resolve, repair or replace the valve (if there is one, of course).

After detecting and eliminating one of the listed malfunctions, the repaired heating pump should begin pumping coolant.

The next class of malfunctions is associated with low pump performance. What to do in this case? How to repair a heating pump?

  • Low power supply. Install a voltage stabilizing device.
  • The pipeline is damaged and there are leaks. In this case, repair or replace the defective part of the pipeline.
  • Weak pressure in the pipeline. Reduce the value of the hydraulic resistance of the heating system or replace the pump with a more powerful one.
  • The heating system is not adjusted correctly. Walk along the pipeline and make sure that all valves are in the required position (closed/open). If the valve is blocked or stuck in the wrong position, repair or replace the valve; change its working position.

The indicated tips should, in practice, help improve pump performance.

Now let's talk about what causes extraneous noise both in the coolant supply system to the heat exchanger and in the pump itself.

Noise when supplying coolant to the heat exchanger is usually due to two reasons:

  • The set pump performance mode is higher than needed to supply coolant. As you might guess, the noise is eliminated by switching the pump to a lower capacity.
  • Large amount of air in the heating system. Eliminated by removing air from the heating system.

Noise in the pump itself can almost always be explained by the following reasons:

  • Lack of necessary support. It can be solved by increasing the pressure value at the pump inlet.
  • Presence of air in the pump. Eliminated by removing air from the pump.

Repair of a heating pump for various other malfunctions, such as, for example, wear of the shaft or leaks of coolant from the pump, on different models of pumps can be eliminated in various ways, from replacing rubber gaskets with installing new gaskets to processing on a lathe, which requires certain knowledge and skills from the user of heating pumps. It is from such factors as your wishes (whether you are satisfied with the pump that you currently have or would you like to change some parameters of its operation), the availability of financial capabilities, time and appropriate skills that determine what you choose - take it to a heating repair workshop pumps, try to repair it yourself or immediately buy and install a new circulation pump. However, even if you prefer a new pump, it would be a good idea to repair the old one too - so, just in case, keep it on the farm as a spare. This is rational, since not a single pump, even the most expensive and reliable one, is immune from breakdowns. Knowing the Russian climate, leaving yourself the chance to find yourself without a functioning heating system at the very peak of the cold weather would be extremely imprudent.