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» How to connect a switch with two keys. How to properly connect a two-key switch with your own hands How to connect a two-key switch

How to connect a switch with two keys. How to properly connect a two-key switch with your own hands How to connect a two-key switch

For the convenience of users, especially in rooms with a large area: sports or concert halls, long corridors, it is good to be able to turn the light off and on from different places. This will eliminate unnecessary transitions from one end of the room to the other.

Two-pin pass-through switch

The connection diagram for a two-key pass-through switch easily solves this problem; it allows you to install switches in two or more places from where you can control the lighting.

Design and principle of operation

The functionality and practicality of a two-key pass-through switch are based on the operating principles of a single-key pass-through switch.

Almost in one case two single-key pass-through switches are assembled, which significantly expands its capabilities and the entire wiring diagram.

The principle of switching contacts remains the same: the switch has two input terminals, 4 output terminals, 6 in total.

The keys are marked with arrows where to press to turn the light on or off. The circuit is assembled in such a way that you can turn off the light by pressing any key on the walk-through switches. In what position the keys of the pass-through switch used are located is not significant. The capabilities of two-key pass-through switches allow you to create various options light control schemes from two or even three places.

Control from two places

Two two-key pass-through switches in the circuit are located in different places, operate autonomously in two directions, controlling different groups of lighting devices.

The scheme is very convenient for long tunnels, corridors, flights of stairs. It doesn’t matter which side you enter from, you can always turn on the light and turn it off at the other end when you exit.

The installation locations for two-key pass-through switches are selected; it is logical to install them at different ends of the facility. Using a special bit with pobedit or diamond teeth, installation holes with a diameter of 72 or 80 mm are drilled into concrete or brick walls, depending on the selected switch housing.

Metal or plastic boxes cylindrical shape (socket boxes). If the wiring is external, then the switch housing is attached to the wall with dowels and screws.

Along the entire length of the room, on the ceiling or walls, two groups of lighting fixtures are installed. These could be chandeliers, cheap lamps or sconces. The connections are made in a parallel circuit so that if one lamp malfunctions, the others continue to work. Wires are laid from them to the junction box; for the circuit to work, two wires per cable are enough.

According to the requirements of the PUE (electrical installation rules), for safety reasons, the housings of lighting devices are grounded. All modern lamps, chandeliers and other devices are equipped with a grounding terminal.

Therefore, it is better to lay a cable with three cores:

  • L – red phase;
  • N – neutral working wire, blue or black;
  • grounding wire yellow-green coloring.

The design of the two-key pass-through switch provides 6 terminals for connecting wires, so from each box under the switches to the distribution box you need to lay two three-core cables, leaving 15-20 cm ends for stripping the insulation and connecting the wires.

Connecting a 2-pin switch

7 cables should converge into the junction box:

  • 4 from switches;
  • 2 from lighting groups;
  • 1 power cable.

21 – wire, all are separated into 8 contacts. It is required to make a connection according to the specified diagram.

Lighting control circuit from two places

Requirement for wires to match color according to intended purpose L; N, ground, can only be performed on sections of the power cable circuit and lighting groups. In the intervals from the switches to the junction box, they are not feasible; in this case, any wires are used.

Therefore, you need to be very careful; to identify the right wire, use a multimeter in testing mode. One wire in the junction box will remain unused - from the switch on the right side.

Insulate its ends and leave it as a backup or connect it to the ground contact.

Control in three places

This circuit uses the same elements as for controlling switching from 2 points, plus a cross two-key switch. It is placed at any convenient point in the room according to the scheme between two two-key switches.

By design and the principle of operation, a cross two-key switch consists of two pass-through two-key switches in one housing. It can be replaced with two pass-through two-key switches, but it is more practical to use the factory one in one case.

In this model, a two-key switch has one common key, which synchronizes the transfer of contacts of two lines. Jumpers are placed at the terminals of the two-key crossover switch in such a way that it ensures the passage of current in the desired direction.

Cross two-gang switch

The extreme pass-through two-key switches are connected to a cross-over four-core cable. The circuit works as follows: the working zero is switched on to two lighting groups at once. The phase arrives at both input contacts of the first two-key pass-through switch.

Regardless of the position of the keys, current flows through 2 of the four input contacts of the crossover switch through the jumper to the input of the second pass-through two-key switch. At the moment, the position of the keys of the 2nd switch determines the passage of current to one of the lighting groups.

If the group is lit, it is enough to change the position of the key of any of the switches in this row to break the power circuit. It’s the same with switching on: it’s worth changing the position of any key in this row, and the circuit will be restored.

Lighting control scheme from three places

The designs of pass-through switches significantly expand the possibilities of switching lighting circuits. They are versatile and can be used as regular single key switches or as double key switches.

As a disadvantage, we can note the cost: they are more expensive than simple models switches. Therefore, it is recommended to use them for their intended purpose in circuits with pass-through lighting control from several places.

How to connect. Video

You can familiarize yourself with the features of connecting a pass-through switch in the video below. Compliance with the developed technology will help avoid unforeseen consequences in the future.

The presented diagrams, photographs and information presented in the text will allow those wishing to understand the principles of operation of two-key pass-through switches and understand the rationality practical application schemes and their use, master the methodology self-installation lighting control systems from several locations.

This will make it possible not to contact professional electricians and save significant money when electrical installation work oh in your own home.

Carrying out electrical installation work yourself can save a lot of money and time. To perform such operations, you need to study their features, execution order, etc.

It is these issues that we will deal with in our article, considering the features of electrical installation work. The information is presented in the form step by step instructions, equipped with detailed photos that illustrate step by step process installation

And although the connection diagram two-gang switch for two light bulbs may seem complicated at first, but once you understand the principle of operation of such a device, even a novice electrician can handle the installation.

A switch of this type is most often used for lighting in two adjacent rooms or for controlling a multi-arm chandelier. The first option is traditionally used for a separate bathroom or for lamps installed in different rooms.

If it is convenient to turn on both lighting devices from one point, it is more reasonable to install one device with two keys, rather than two identical single-key switches.

If you organize the control of a chandelier in this way, you can regulate the illumination of the room by turning on only some of the light bulbs or all at the same time. Such a scheme can also be useful in the kitchen, for example, to turn on the upper and lower lights.

Not too much to an experienced master It may not be easy to figure out the order of connecting a switch with two keys. But if you understand the principle and sequence of work, then there will be no problems.

Switch installation features

Let's assume that our task is to equip a new building with electrical wiring that has not yet been touched by an electrician. Let's consider the features of performing electrical installation work in stages.

Stage #1 - performing preparatory work

First you need to prepare necessary tools and materials:

  • single-pole circuit breaker and;
  • switch with two keys;
  • distribution box;
  • two lamps;
  • din - rail to install devices to protect wiring and owners;
  • socket box suitable in size and type;
  • electrical tape;
  • perforated tape for cable installation;
  • fasteners;
  • screwdrivers, Phillips and flat, or a screwdriver with attachments;
  • voltage indicator;
  • knife, wire cutters, pliers, etc.

Start connecting with preparatory stage. First you need to install a distribution box in which all the wires will be collected and connected in accordance with the diagram.

To protect the circuit from breakdowns and overloads, you will need an automatic circuit breaker, and to protect the owners of the premises from shock in the event of a current leak, you will need an RCD. These devices must be installed in the distribution panel of a house or apartment, where suitable places are provided for them.

Connection diagram double switch will help you connect all elements and wires correctly. Understanding the principles will greatly facilitate installation

If for some reason such installation is not possible, the RCD and the machine are installed on a mounting rail mounted directly on the wall. After this, you need to install a socket for the switch.

The socket box must be selected depending on the wall material: concrete or plasterboard. Devices for concrete are also used on other similar substrates: for brick, gas and foam concrete, expanded clay blocks, etc. A hole is made in the wall the right size, and then fix the box with gypsum or cement mortar.

Stage #2 - selection and installation of a suitable socket box

For work on plasterboard, other models and installation methods are used. They are equipped with spacer elements that allow you to fix the device in the hole. The same socket boxes are used for installation on a wall covered with chipboard, plywood, etc.

Now you can start laying the wires. In accordance with the drawn up diagram, you need to make markings and lay grooves if hidden cable routing is planned.

When choosing a socket for a switch, you need to pay attention to this nuance. New models of such devices are made of plastic and have a diagonal of 67 mm. Old, usually metal, analogs are slightly larger, they have a diagonal of 70 mm. This small difference can make a difference.

Modern two-key switches fit perfectly into 67 mm socket boxes. You can fix the mechanism inside using spacer legs or screws.

IN metal models The three extra millimeters can make the switch very difficult to install, since the length of the spacer legs, which are usually found on the sides of the mechanism, may not be long enough to securely fasten it.

The internal insulation of a three-core wire differs in color for each core: for phase, neutral and ground. This label must be strictly observed.

One wire is intended for neutral, the second for grounding, and the third for phase. You need to remember what color wire is allocated for each function.

Carefully connect the ends before connecting. In this case, you need to make sure that the color markings on the wires connected to the machine match those that come out of it. If the neutral wire runs at the top on the right side, then it should also be at the bottom on the right.

Grounding for lighting devices is not always provided in standard apartment plans. In this case, the third wire remains unused.

If there is a ground loop, it should be connected to further protect the lighting from possible accidents. This circuit is connected to the corresponding contacts on the lighting fixtures. Newer luminaire models usually have grounding pins.

This precaution when connecting a two-key switch to two light bulbs is required if the lighting is installed in a bathroom or other room with high humidity. Grounding conductors that have not been used should be insulated and laid so that they do not interfere with further installation work.

Stage #4 - installation and connection of the switch

On the outside, the standard switch model consists of two keys and a decorative frame, although the design may vary. Behind them is the working mechanism. To open it, you need to remove the keys. To do this, pry each of them with a screwdriver and disconnect it. Some manufacturers make small protrusions on the edges of the keys to make disassembling the device easier.

After the keys are removed, you need to remove the decorative frame. To do this, unscrew the fasteners or open the latches. The device contacts may vary depending on the model. They are usually made screw or self-clamping. Now you can connect and install the switch.

After removing the outer layer of insulation, approximately 10 mm of the insulating coating must be removed from each core -. You should first study the design features of the device, paying attention to the type of contacts. The switch needs to be turned around and examined.

There is usually a diagram here that can help you make the connection correctly. If the device does not have such information, you need to look for it in the instructions or use devices to determine which contact is intended for the phase input, and which two are outputs.

The absence of the necessary markings is a rare case, typical for some old switch models from Soviet times or for cheap, low-quality devices made in China. Sometimes simple logic helps: the entrance and exit are almost always located on opposite sides. There is only one input, but there are always two outputs in such switches.

The input and output for the contacts are usually located on opposite sides. The phase input is indicated as L, and the connection of the output contacts is indicated by arrows

Typically, the letter L indicates the connection point for the input of the phase wire, and the arrows on the opposite side indicate the connection point for the wires responsible for the operation of a separate key.

The core, which is most often covered with white insulation, must be connected to the phase input, and the remaining two wires, which are blue and yellow-green in the photo, to the corresponding sockets. After all contacts are connected, you need to unfold the device and install it in the socket box.

In models with self-clamping contacts, connection is extremely simple. The stripped edge of the wire just needs to be inserted into the connection point. There is a clamp installed there that automatically secures the connection with a spring. All three wires are connected in this way.

Need to watch closely color coded separate veins. Once they are inserted into the connectors, you need to pull back a little to make sure that the connection is secure. If it is necessary to remove the fixed conductors from the clamping contacts, then the connection must be disconnected.

For this purpose, buttons are provided next to each clamp; they can be located at the ends of the device. When you press the button, the clamp opens and the wire can be easily removed. On switches with screw contact retainers, there is often no marking of input and output for wires.

Usually there is a phase input at the top, and two outputs at the bottom. The design of such devices includes a plate to which movable output contacts are attached; their purpose is obvious. To fix the contacts in such a device, you need to unscrew the clamping screw, insert the stripped edge of the wire into the hole, and then screw the fastener back.

If the grounding conductor is not used at this stage, it is recommended to take care of its insulation again. Now you need to clean the end of the phase wire leading to the lamp from the outer and inner covering. It needs to be connected to one of the wires that comes out of the switch.

You need to do the same with the phase wire that leads from the second lamp; it is connected to the second core coming out of the switch.

Again, any unused ground wires should be insulated and placed in the distribution box. If grounding is provided, the corresponding wires must be connected in series. It remains to connect the neutral wires: one from the power wire and two more from the lamps. They are simply twisted together.

Stage #6 - checking the functionality of the circuit

Now all that remains is to screw the light bulbs into the lamp sockets and check the operation of the circuit.

Once assembly is complete, the double switch connection diagram will look something like this. At this stage, you need to perform a check: turn on the RCD and the machine, and then the keys - alternately and together. After checking, the protection devices must be disabled

First you need to turn on the RCD and the machine. After this, check the operation of each switch key in turn, and then turn both lamps on and off simultaneously.

If everything is done correctly, the lamps will light up and go out in accordance with the position of the switch keys

After this, you need to turn off the protective devices and insulate all connection points and complete the installation of the two-key switch by installing a decorative frame.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

A visual process for installing a two-key switch can be seen here:

In fact, connecting such a device is not difficult, you just need to understand the order of all operations and comply with safety requirements. Better and easier to use modern devices and materials, since they are easier to install and fit together better.

Do you want to clarify some unclear points regarding the installation of a switch that we did not cover in sufficient detail in this article? Or would you like to supplement the above material with valuable comments/advice based on personal experience? Please write your questions in the comments block, express your opinion, and add useful recommendations.

WITH connection diagram for two-key switch may cause difficulties for many unprepared people. However, in reality everything is very easy and simple. You can verify this by reading detailed instructions for installation and connection presented in this article. By adhering to it, you can easily not only understand the scheme, but also carry out self-installation with your own hands. presented in the form step by step photo instructions with detailed comments and explanations, which makes it as accessible and understandable as possible even for ordinary untrained people.

A double switch is quite convenient in a lighting control system, as it allows you to control the light in two directions from one place. The most common example of such use is a two-gang switch installed to turn on the light in a separate bathroom and toilet. Also, two-key light switches are used to control individual groups of lighting lamps in multi-arm chandeliers, but in Lately this fashion began to become a thing of the past, as the lighting equipment market has changed quite a lot, in modern chandeliers double switch replaced remote management.

In our example, we will consider the connection diagram of a two-key switch and its sequential installation for two rooms. In the most compact form, it will be presented that which is usually located under the plaster at a distance from each other. Also, let's look at clear example, how to connect a two-key light switch.

Installation of pre-installation circuit elements

Let's start by installing the junction box. In the subsequent stages of installation in it, we will collect all the wires necessary to complete the circuit, and then connect their cores in a certain sequence.

Also, we need protective device, which will protect the lighting circuit from short circuit currents and overloads. Usually, it is installed in the power panel, but in our case, for greater clarity, we will install it on the rail next to the circuit.

Now, installing a socket box, we will install a two-key switch in it.

You can see how to carry out the actual installation on our website in the relevant instructions, and.

The main elements are prepared, let's move on to installing the wire.

Laying the wires necessary to implement the two-key switch circuit

First, we mount the power wire; it will be connected to the protection device. In our example, we use a 3*1.5 brand wire - three-core, with a core cross-section of 1.5 square. A three-core wire is universal, since the third core can be used if necessary, for example, to ground a lamp.

Attention! If there is voltage on your suitable wire, before carrying out all work you must turn it off, and then additionally make sure that there is no voltage on the wires using .

Now, we lay the wire that will power the distribution box, from the protection device to the box.

The ends of the wires coming to the junction box must be left with a margin of 10-15 centimeters.
A supply of wire is also needed on the socket box; 10 centimeters will be enough.

Next, we mount the wire to the lamp of the first room.

All the necessary wires to complete the connection diagram for a two-key switch are installed.

Connecting protection, control and lighting devices

Let's start by installing the lighting circuit protection device. For our example, a two-pole circuit breaker is used; the rating should be calculated for each individual case individually, since the lighting power will be different everywhere. In some places there will be only one 150 W lamp, and in other cases there will be several 3 kW spotlights.

The wire we use has double insulation, common outer and inner, separate for each core.

Carefully, without damaging the internal insulation of the cores, remove the outer layer. First, from the wire supplying the protection device.

Then, from the wire going to the junction box.

We measure the length of wire required for connection. We bite off the excess. Then, remove the insulation from the wires and connect the wires to the terminals. The wire has a different color for each core.

  • We define the blue core to transmit zero;
  • Yellow with a green stripe - for grounding;
  • We use the remaining core for phase transmission. In our case, the phase on the wire approaching the machine is white with a black stripe, and on the wire going to the junction box it is simply white.

When making connections, carefully ensure that the upper wires suitable for the machine match the colors of the lower ones. At the top, the phase is on the left, at the bottom there should be the same on the left. At the top, zero is on the right, so the bottom should be on the right.

We will not use grounding conductors in our example, but in principle, they can be used to transfer grounding to the corresponding contacts of the lamps. Unless, of course, it is structurally provided for in the electrical supply system of your home.

Many lamps have metal case and their design includes a grounding contact. This is especially true in rooms with high humidity.

We isolate the unused grounding conductors and put them aside so that they do not interfere.

Let's move on to connecting the two-key switch.

We strip the wires and remove the outer insulation.

Now, let's look at how to connect a double light switch.

Our example uses a switch with plug-in contacts.

We turn the mechanism with the back side. As you can see, it shows a wiring diagram for a specific switch. As a rule, such a scheme is found on all lighting control devices, but there are exceptions. Connecting two-button switches of various types is described in great detail in the instructions.

Following symbols switch circuits, connect the wires. In our case, “L” is the suitable phase, and the two arrows at the bottom of the phase are outgoing.

Let me remind you that in our example we chose a core for phase transmission white. There is a corresponding contact for it on the switch, for a specific model it is designated by the letter “L”, a contact of a suitable supply phase.

We connect the two remaining strands of the wire to the outgoing contacts, on this model they are indicated by arrows, from them the phase, at the command of the keys, will be supplied to the lamp of the first or second room, or to both rooms at once.

The switch is connected. We install it in the socket box.

Learn more about how to install other electrical wiring elements (sockets with and without grounding, double switches, including backlit ones, chandeliers, lamps, exhaust fan bathroom), you can see .

Let's continue. The lighting control element is installed, all that remains is to mount the lamps. In our example, they are presented in the form of two sockets with light bulbs.

We prepare the wires of the first and second lamps for connection. We remove the outer insulation, measure out the required amount of wire, and strip the core for connection. As a rule, lamps are equipped with standard plastic terminals; to connect through them you will need approximately 0.5 centimeters of bare wire strand

We connect the lamp of the first room, also known as a socket.

Then, the lamp of the second room.

Ground wires are not used in our example, so we isolate them.

And we put it aside so that it doesn’t get in the way.

All circuit elements are installed. Now, let's move on to the actual assembly of the circuit.

Connecting wire cores into a two-key switch circuit

We begin assembling the circuit with the supply wire.


We remove the outer insulation from it.

Then, we prepare the next end of the wire, going from the junction box to the two-key switch.

Using a knife, we strip 4 centimeters of insulation from each core of both wires.

Next, according to the diagram, the phase should arrive at the switch. Therefore, we connect the two white wires of the supply wire and the wire going to the switch to each other. And then we twist them clockwise, first by hand, then pull them through with pliers. According to the textbook, the twist should be 5-7 turns, bite off the excess.

On at this stage I want to draw your attention to one important point. The example uses the twisting method, as it is the most visual for understanding and perceiving the principle of the circuit. Currently, the rules for the construction of electrical installations in pure form this method is prohibited by PUE clause 2.1.21.

Permitted methods for connecting wire cores include:

  • crimping;
  • welding;
  • soldering;
  • screw, clamp and similar clamps.

This issue will be discussed in more detail in the corresponding instructions; the article is currently being written, but will appear on our resource in the near future.

Let's continue. The first connection of the wire cores has been completed.

The grounding conductor of the supply wire is not particularly useful in our example, so we insulate it with insulating tape.

Now, we prepare the wire going to the lamp of the first room. We remove the insulation of the wire and strip the wires.

We connect the phase white wire of the lamp of the first room with one of the outgoing wires of the two-key switch, take the blue wire.

We also do not use the grounding conductor of the wire going to the lamp of the first room, so we insulate it.

We prepare the wire for the lamp in the second room, remove the insulation, and strip the wires.

We isolate the grounding conductor.

We connect the white phase wire of the lamp in the second room with the outgoing yellow-green wire of the switch.

We remove all unnecessary insulated grounding conductors into the distribution box.

We still have three neutral wires left unconnected, two from two lamps and one from the wire feeding the junction box. Let's connect them together.

The connection diagram for the two-key switch is ready. We screw the light bulbs into the lamps.

And we move on to testing the circuit.

Apply voltage. We turn on the circuit breaker, for which we move the control lever to the upper position.

Voltage is applied. Now, let's test control the lighting of the rooms. We move the first key of the switch to the “on” position, voltage is supplied to the first lamp, as a result of which the light in the first room comes on.

We turn the first switch key to the “off” position, the light in the first room goes out. Now, we check the operation of the second switch key, to do this we move it to the “on” position, voltage is supplied to the lamp of the second room, the light comes on.

We turn the second switch key to the “off” position and the light in the second room goes out. Let's do one last test. We move the first and third keys simultaneously to the “on” position, the lights come on in two rooms.

We move both keys to the “off” position, the lights went out in the first and second rooms. Testing is completed, the circuit is working correctly.

Turn off the voltage by moving the lever circuit breaker to the down position.

Use insulating tape to insulate the twists.

We put the frame on the switch.

The circuit is ready for operation.

Drawing. Double switch connection diagram.

To complete the double switch connection diagram we used:

Material

  • machine mounting rail (Din rail) - 1 pc.;
  • two-pole circuit breaker - 1 pc.;
  • distribution box - 1 pc.;
  • lamps (for our example, sockets with lamps) - 2 pcs.;
  • socket box - 1 pc.;
  • two-key switch - 1 pc.;
  • wire VVGngP - the amount of wire required depends on the size of each specific room;
  • insulating tape - 1 pc.;
  • fastening perforated tape - the required quantity depends on the meter of the wire;
  • dowel-nails.

Tool

  • Phillips screwdriver (screwdriver);
  • flat screwdriver (screwdriver);
  • voltage indicator;
  • pliers;
  • wire cutters;

By completing the connection diagram for a two-key switch with our own hands, we saved:

  • - 200 rubles;
  • installation and connection of a two-pole circuit breaker - 300 rubles;
  • installation and connection of the distribution box indoor installation- 550 rubles;
  • installation and connection ceiling lamps(450 rubles for 1 lamp) - 900 rubles;
  • installation of an indoor socket box ( Brick wall) - 200 rubles;
  • installation of a two-key switch hidden installation- 150 rubles;
  • laying the wire openly no higher than 2 meters (1 meter - 35 rubles), for example, let's take 2 meters - 70 rubles;
  • laying the wire openly above 2 meters (1 meter - 50 rubles), for example, let's take 8 meters - 400 rubles;
  • wall chipping 8 meters (1 meter - 120 rubles) - 960 rubles.

Total 3730 rubles

*Calculation provided for hidden wiring

All switches are divided according to several characteristics:

  1. By installation method:
  • Overlays for external wiring;
  • Internal for hidden wiring, are recessed into holes made in the walls.
  1. According to the switching control method:
  • Keyboard designs, the most common method;
  • Rotary;
  • With an electronic sensor for movement or the level of external lighting, there can be acoustic, temperature sensors depending on the need for operating conditions;
  • With cord or chain;
  • Sensory;
  • Remote control, with a radio or IR remote control, online via the Internet;
  • Dimmers.
  1. According to the contact switching diagram
  • Conventional make and break one contact (Single-key);
  • Two and three key switches
  • Changeover (pass-through) single-key and multi-key;
  • Cross.
  1. According to the method of attaching wires to contacts:
  • Screw;
  • Clamping with springs.

The designs of contact group mechanisms vary, depending on the manufacturers.

Connecting conventional single-key and two-key switches

The most simple design and the connection diagram is considered to be for conventional switches, which switch one contact at a time, close or open it when a key is pressed. Manufacturers make models containing in one housing from 1 to 3 contacts, each of which is switched separately by pressing the corresponding key.


As can be seen from the diagram, the main principle for connecting switches of any type is that a phase wire passes through its contacts. A typical mistake made by novice installers: the neutral wire is passed through the switch, the phase wire is connected from the box to the dump. This is not safe during operation and may cause electric shock even when replacing the lamp. The neutral core is connected directly to the contacts of the lighting fixtures through the distribution box. Grounding can be connected to the lamp housing directly from the ground loop or through a twist in the box.

Design and connection of pass-through single-key switches

The designs and switching circuit of pass-through switches are more complex than conventional models, but general principle remains the same, the phase wire passes through the contacts. There are options with one, two and even three keys in one case


Such switches are used in lighting control circuits from two points; this is very convenient in many cases:

  • On flights of stairs;
  • Long alleys;
  • Tunnels;
  • Sports arenas, stadiums, swimming pools and other facilities.

In these cases, users do not need to go through the long distances, any nearest switch is used. The diagram shows the lighting system in the on position; when you press any of the switches, the contact will move to a black line and the lighting will turn off. The design of the circuit is such that the next time you press any key, the circuit will close through the red or black line and the light will turn on.

Connection diagram for two-key pass-through switches from two points

The design of a two-key pass-through switch differs from a single-key switch in that elements of two single-key copies are built into one housing. Each key works according to the principle of the diagram presented above.


Stages of connecting switches

First of all:

  • A connection diagram is drawn up,
  • The total power consumption of lighting fixtures is calculated;
  • Using the tables, we select the cable brand, the cross-section of the conductors and the maximum permissible length.

Copper conductors, voltage 220 V, single phase, three-core cable

According to the requirements of the PUE, three-wire lighting circuits are used, so it is recommended to choose cables with three cores. For domestic conditions, the most popular brands are VVG, PUNP, GDP, MYN, others with double insulation and three copper cores;

Brands of cables with copper wires
traditionally better better cheap
PVSSHVVPVVGVVG-PVVGngVVGng-LSPPVPV1PV3
formroundflatroundflatroundroundflatroundround
2-3 cores1-core
Vein propertiesflexibleflexibletoughtoughtoughtoughtoughtoughflexible
insulation+ + + + + + + + +
shell+ + + + + +
  • We select a switch of the appropriate design according to the power consumed by the lighting lamps. Typically, the substrate of the body of products in networks with currents of more than 10A is made of ceramic.

After calculations and acquisition of all necessary materials installation can begin. Let's consider classic version more complex circuit, connecting pass-through switches with two keys for hidden wiring in the tunnel:

  • At the edges of the tunnel on a one-sided wall, holes for socket boxes for switches are drilled using a hammer drill with a crown, at a height of 60 -90 cm from the floor:
  • On one side, above the socket box, 15-20 cm under the ceiling, a hole is drilled for the distribution box;

Tip No. 1 If possible, depending on the conditions, install the distribution box and the first switch on the side closest to the switchboard. In this case, you will need less input cable from the control panel to the box, which has the largest cross-section of wires in the circuit.

Two groups of lighting fixtures are installed evenly along the walls or ceiling, wires are laid between them, and the connection is made in a parallel circuit. This ensures the operation of all working lamps if one or more are burned out;

  • The wires of the lighting groups are placed in a box, the yellow-green wires are connected to the housing of the lighting fixtures and grounding, the blue or light blue wire is connected to the base contact of the lamps and the neutral core in the distribution box. Red (white, yellow, brown) according to the requirements of the PUE are connected in the box through a switch to the remaining contact of the base.

One of the significant mistakes is considered to be failure to comply with the requirements of the PUE for matching the color of wire insulation functional purpose. This makes it difficult for other electricians to repair and maintain the network; they have to call all sections of the circuit and disconnect the twists in the box.

Features of the design and connection of switches from different manufacturers

The general principle of operation of switches is one closing and opening of one or a group of contacts, Constructive decisions may be different, different ways of connecting wires. Lezad switches are considered one of the most popular models on the market. They have standard sizes housings for installation in socket boxes and screw fastening mechanisms with sliding strips. A significant difference from other models is the contacts with clamping springs; there is no need to clamp the wire onto the contact with screws; just insert it into the hole and it will be securely fixed by the spring.


In the connection example we considered, two-key pass-through switches with six contacts are used. Let's show how they are connected to the circuit.


Please note that five conductors are connected to the first switch through the distribution box. The phase wire between contacts 1 and 2 is connected by a jumper.


Tip No. 2 If necessary, pass-through switches can always be used as usual. To do this, it is enough to connect only one group of contacts 1 - 5 or 2-6.

Connecting switches without cutting walls

When the renovation is completed, but there is a need to change the electrical wiring in the lighting system, it is irrational to spoil the interior by gating the walls. There are several options to solve this problem:

  • Lay external wiring from the box to the new switch in the cable duct;
  • You can drill holes in hollow walls and lower a rope with a weight vertically from the top of the box down to the switch. Then string the wire through with a rope.
  • The simplest, but most expensive way is to install a remote radio switch. It is not tied to wiring and is installed at any point at a distance of approximately 10 m from the lighting device, this depends on the model of the device.

Installation and connection of a remote switch

Manufacturers make many models with different characteristics and control options:

  • Simple switches to turn on and off;
  • Programmable, on only, off only;
  • With timer and other options.

In any case remote system control consists of two parts:

  • The control signal transmitter, which is the switch, has a housing with dimensions and appearance similar to a surface-mounted switch for external wiring. In his design printed circuit board, with a battery and a spiral antenna, the antenna can be designed as a winding path on the board. Attached to the wall with self-tapping screws or double-sided tape.
  • The control signal receiver and contact switching unit has miniature dimensions, contacts for connecting wires and is installed on the structure of the body of a chandelier, lampshade or other lighting fixture.

This diagram shows a control unit for a two-key switch with two lighting groups; there are models with one group. Before installing the remote switch, the wires from the conventional switch are short-circuited. The body of the old switch can be left in place or simply turned on, then 220V will constantly flow to the lighting device and power the control unit.


Characteristics

Domestic radio switches of this series have a long range, the manufacturer guarantees operation without battery replacement for up to 7 years, trouble-free operation for up to 3 years.

FAQ

  1. Why is a cross switch needed?

Mainly used in circuits with two pass-through switches, thus providing a third point of lighting control.

In any position of the cross switch key, the circuit provides lighting control from the two extreme switches.


  1. The dimmer has 4 wires per chandelier 3, how can I connect a regular switch to the place of the faulty dimmer?

Don't go into detail about how the dimmer worked:


Connection diagram for a two-key switch to a chandelier

  • Turn off the corresponding circuit breaker at the control panel, de-energizing the lighting system in this area;
  • Disconnect the dimmer from the wires;
  • Using an indicator screwdriver, identify the phase wire that comes from the distribution box;
  • Call out the two wires that go from the switch to the chandelier, connect them to the contacts of the lamps of the first and second groups. The remaining neutral wire comes from the box and has a common contact on the lamps of both groups.
  • On the switch, the phase is connected to the common contact, the wires coming from the chandelier to the other two contacts. Thus, the phase will be switched by keys to the lamps of the lighting groups.
  • Insulate the remaining wire from the box to the switch and leave it free.
  • Turn on the machine at the control panel and check that the connection is correct.

Two-key switches are used when it is necessary to control two electrical lighting fixtures simultaneously from one point. They also help you adjust the brightness of the lights in the simplest way. Agree, connecting a light switch with two buttons creates additional convenience.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the detailed process of installing and connecting a double switch. Here you will find interesting information about the device design features light controls. With our help, you can easily carry out the installation.

We supplemented the thoroughly described instructions with visual illustrations, photo selections, wiring diagrams and video tutorial.

Internal organization A two-phase switch differs from a single-phase switch by the presence of two output terminals instead of one.

More specifically, it consists of the following elements:

  • mechanism and decorative panel;
  • one input terminal;
  • two output terminals;
  • two keys.

Terminals are special clamping mechanisms. To connect a wire, you just need to strip it, insert it into the terminal block and tighten it with a screw. The input or common terminal is preferably located separately and is marked as L.

On the opposite side there are two output terminals. They can be designated as L1, L2 or 1,2. Some models may have screw terminals instead of a terminal block. It is not advisable to use them, since the fastening may gradually weaken and will have to be tightened.

The main difference between a switch with two keys and its one-key counterpart is that it controls a pair of lighting fixtures

You need to install the device so that when you turn it on, you press the upper half of the key. You can determine the top and bottom of an element using an indicator - a special screwdriver that works to make a short circuit.

To do this, take a nail or a piece of wire and touch it to one contact, apply an indicator to the other, holding your thumb on top.

The design of a switch with two keys is slightly different from a single-key switch. The main components of the device: mechanism, keys and decorative case

If the light inside does not light, it means that the switch contacts are open. When the keys are in the on position, it should light up. It remains to be noted top part element.

Step-by-step description of the work process

In addition to standard models, a two-key switch can be additionally equipped with a backlight and indicator. The backlight helps to identify it in the dark, and the glowing indicator will make it clear that the electrical network is working and is closed. They also produce models with shock-resistant and waterproof cases. They can be installed in a bathhouse, bathroom or outdoors.