Wanting to make their home more comfortable and cozy, owners often face the problem of creating or upgrading a heating system with their own hands. This task is quite within the power of everyone. Let's take a closer look at where to start and how to act so that your water heating served reliably for many years.
Most owners today choose polypropylene pipes and fittings for heating a private home. And this is quite natural, since polypropylene has a large number of advantages over other materials at a relatively low cost and ease of installation.
Water heating is characterized by a relatively high coolant temperature, which can cause significant thermal elongations of pipelines. In this regard, ordinary polypropylene cannot be used; only reinforced polypropylene pipes for heating are used. To reinforce polypropylene, fiberglass or aluminum is used.
The reinforcing layer has a significantly lower degree of linear expansion than polypropylene and prevents the occurrence of such undesirable phenomena as bending and sagging of pipelines when heated.
In addition to being unsightly from an aesthetic point of view, temperature deformations can create serious stresses in pipelines and cause cracks in building structures or coolant leaks.
Poly gain propylene pipes for heating with the introduction of an internal aluminum layer can be done in 3 different ways:
Soldering is used to connect polypropylene elements. The end of the pipe and the required fitting are heated with a soldering iron, and then rigidly connected to each other, creating a reliable, uniform joint after solidification.
The reinforcing aluminum foil is removed at the joint. If the metal is near the surface, then it is cleaned using a special stripper or a knife, and if it is inside, then the inner layer is cleaned using a trimmer. This ensures a reliable connection between the pipe end and the fitting and protects the aluminum from possible damage and delamination during operation.
Before you begin to independently install a heating system with polypropylene pipes, be sure to carefully study all the recommendations and complete several training rations!
It is better for a novice installer to choose polypropylene pipes fiberglass reinforced for heating your home, since they do not need processing before soldering, which speeds up work and eliminates the need to purchase additional tools.
In addition, they clearly win in terms of cost-quality ratio. You just need to take into account the slight increase in length when heated for pipes with fiberglass fiber. When crossing walls, pipes are enclosed in sleeves that allow the polypropylene pipe to move freely, and between internal corners walls and pipeline turns leave space for compensation stroke during thermal expansion.
Without professional skills, it is quite difficult to understand the wide range of brands and decide what is best to install your water heating from. Therefore, as practice shows, it is better to trust the experience of the majority and give preference to the most common famous brands. More expensive pipes, in addition to increased reliability, also have a very important advantage for a beginner - they are usually easier to solder, they forgive minor flaws when joining elements.
Thus, a glass fiber reinforced polypropylene pipe famous manufacturer is an ideal solution for installing a heating system for a private home with your own hands.
The marking of the pipe must contain the inscription PN 25. The diameter of polypropylene pipes for heating is selected by calculation, proportional to the required coolant flow according to the heat load and the selected heating system design.
A heating system made of polypropylene pipes has the following advantages:
To be fair, it is worth noting the minor disadvantages characteristic of polypropylene pipes:
If apartments usually use a dependent heating circuit powered by a heating network, then in a private house you have to think about installing your own heating boiler and how to connect it. For independence from external factors and the ability to independently set a comfortable temperature in the premises, you have to pay with additional hassle when arranging a heating system and the cost of boiler equipment plus components.
An independent scheme for organizing heating of a private house involves, in addition to laying pipes, also installing a heating boiler. The most economical option today is to combine an electric boiler with a solid fuel boiler. Due to the nature of this equipment, the following precautions must be taken:
Depending on the tightness, the heating system can be open or closed type. The first implies the presence in the attic of an open container for the coolant that expands when heated, the second has a special closed tank with a membrane near the heating boiler.
An open system can only be used with natural coolant movement. In this case, it moves by gravity due to gravitational pressure. In a closed-type system, the transfer of working fluid is ensured using a circulation pump.
Despite the apparent cheapness of heating without a pump, the gravity-flow scheme will require significant costs for pipes, since it only works well with large diameters and, accordingly, requires significant capital costs for pipes. In this case, only open installation is possible.
Heating schemes with forced circulation in practice turn out to be more economical and aesthetically pleasing, are better adjustable and provide higher efficiency. A closed-type water heating system with a pump operates more stable than a gravity-fed one. It always ensures constant pressure and good circulation, and therefore uniform heat distribution.
An open system can only be justified for small houses and in areas with power outages. Before you create water heating for a private house with your own hands, you need to decide circuit diagram, circulation method and pipe layout, carefully design everything and draw up the necessary drawings.
The efficiency of heating circuits, ease of use and comfort of residents depend on the correct choice at the design stage.
Based on the type of wiring used, there are 3 main heating schemes made from polypropylene pipes in a private house: single-pipe, collector and two-pipe.
The cheapest and easiest to implement heating wiring diagram. The coolant in a single-pipe heating system consistently fills all heating devices. At the same time, each subsequent radiator receives increasingly cooled water, and the heat is not distributed evenly. In closed systems, where the pump provides good circulation, this drawback is almost unnoticeable.
As practice shows, under certain conditions it is possible for the water to completely cool down even before entering the last heating radiators and, as a result, rooms remote from the boiler remain cold.
If you need reliable water heating that works stably and comfortable temperature in all rooms, then a single-pipe heating system should be avoided. It can be justified only for small houses, while the first to connect the coolant in the direction of flow living rooms, and then technical premises.
A more complex and materials-intensive water heating scheme, but one that allows for uniform heat distribution, ease of operation and high reliability of the system. At the outlet of the heating boiler or at each branch from the riser, a collector comb is installed, to which horizontal branches or individual devices are connected.
The most relevant use of this scheme for connecting devices is in large cottages with complex branched systems. It allows you to adjust the temperature and pressure parameters for each branch or device separately.
If your home will use a circuit combined heating, that is, a combination of classic radiator heating with heated floors, then you will definitely do right choice, stopping at the collector circuit.
Provides parallel connection heating devices to the supply and return pipelines. Each radiator is independent from the others and receives coolant at the inlet of almost the same temperature.
At emergency situation you can turn off one or more devices without affecting the performance of the system. The two-pipe installation scheme allows for hidden installation and easy hiding of pipelines in the floor. In most cases, this particular heating scheme for a private house is the most optimal.
In a private house, both horizontal and vertical piping can be used. Vertical layout used in houses with 2 or more floors. It is most typical for large cottages.
The coolant moves along the risers from floor to floor. It is possible to organize heating with bottom and top wiring, depending on the location of the supply pipeline relative to the radiators. Heating scheme two-story house It can also be performed with horizontal wiring, when horizontal branches radiate from one riser throughout the house on each floor. Heating scheme one-story house will definitely be horizontal.
The horizontal connection diagram for radiators in modern private homes is the most common. It allows you to make a heated house as comfortable as thermal conditions, and aesthetics. Individual devices and branches can be turned off without damaging the main system and adjusted as needed.
The heating concept can be one-pipe or two-pipe. Depending on the method of laying, there are perimeter and radial.
Perimeter wiring involves laying pipes along the walls around the perimeter of the apartment; hidden installation in the floor structure is also possible. Such a water heating system is convenient to install both during new construction and during reconstruction. The main disadvantage is the significant length of the pipelines and the difficulty of ensuring the ability to drain water from the system.
Radial wiring provides for a separate connection of each radiator to a common collector using the shortest route; the device connection diagram resembles the sun's rays. It allows the user to individually configure each device and provides easy hydraulic balancing.
This heating system scheme is convenient for new construction; the pipes are laid on the rough surface of the floor and filled with screed. The disadvantages include the difficulty of repair, since in the event of an emergency it is very difficult to get to the pipelines. The consumption of pipes during beam distribution is greater than in other options, but this is compensated by a reduction in their diameters. It is this piping layout that is typical for most modern cottages.
conclusions
When starting to install a heating system made of polypropylene pipes in a private house, carefully study the polypropylene soldering technology, analyze all possible water heating schemes, and determine the necessary thermal loads, make plans and 3D drawings.
Try to first consult with a specialist in the field of heating engineering and agree with him on the design of the future system. By enlisting the support of an experienced person in technical matters and having carefully prepared, you can easily cope with installing a water heating system for a private home with your own hands.
Polypropylene pipes are widely and successfully used for the installation of various engineering systems for many years now. Today, this type of communication has almost completely replaced classic version installation of systems using metal pipes. This is due to their excellent performance characteristics and accessibility. And if several years ago polypropylene pipes were widely used in urban buildings, now they are widely used in private households. This article discusses the main nuances of choosing and operating heating systems made of polypropylene pipes in private houses.
Let's consider the main characteristics of polypropylene pipelines, thanks to which they are rapidly replacing classic metal pipes.
It is worth noting that polypropylene pipelines have practically no disadvantages; they rather relate to the human factor: it is necessary to purchase products from trusted suppliers and follow the recommended guidelines during operation temperature regime. Polypropylene is also sensitive to mechanical stress and the use of products based on it in premises with significant risks of damage (workshops, workshops, welding areas) is impractical and sometimes unsafe.
The heating system in a private household has some differences from that in apartment building.The main ones are the following:
Modern industry offers a wide range of types and sizes of polypropylene pipes. In order to correctly select the required option for a particular private home, we list the most common polypropylene pipes offered on the market, indicating their performance characteristics.
Pipe PN-10
Polypropylene conductors of this type are produced with an outer diameter of 20 - 110 mm and an inner diameter of 16.2 - 90 mm. The wall thickness of the material ranges from 1.9 to 10 mm, depending on the diameter. They are made from thin-walled polypropylene, most often single-layer, which has an operating temperature of up to 20 C and a pressure of up to 1 MPa. Sold in 4 meter sections. Such pipes cannot be used in heating systems; they are intended for domestic supply needs. cold water over short distances without pressure in the line.
Pipe PN-16
This type of product is characterized by thicker walls compared to the option described above. At the same time, the outer diameter is identical to PN-10 products, but the inner diameter is slightly smaller - it varies from 14.4 to 79.8 mm. The range of operating temperatures of the coolant is from 0 C to 60 C, and operating pressure 1.6 MPa. The release form is 4 m sections. It is worth noting that this type of pipe is used in heating quite rarely, since the upper limit of withstandable temperatures of 60 C is low for heating systems, and the cost of such products is comparable to the cost of more functional products. It is recommended to use such conductors for installation of heated floors, where the operating temperature is usually not higher than 50 C, or for hot water supply.
Pipe PN-20
The products are characterized as universal conductors used for heating and supply hot water. However, when used in the heating mains of a private house, it is recommended to install only a return water supply from them, since the temperature of the supplied coolant from an individual heating boiler, unlike the main central heating, can reach up to 100 C, and the maximum operating temperature for this type of conductor is 80 C. They have a two-layer structure, which provides increased strength and ductility. External diameter - from 16 to 110 mm, internal diameter - from 10.6 to 73.2 mm, with a wall thickness of 1.6 - 18.4 mm. As the name suggests, the maximum operating pressure is 2 MPa. The use of this product is advisable for installing heated floors, heating greenhouses, hot water supply, and when installing a heating main in apartments with central heating.
Pipes PN-25
They are the best for arranging heating systems in a private home. Thanks to its two-layer design and the presence of aluminum or fiberglass reinforcement between the layers, it has increased performance characteristics. Such products are able to withstand a constant temperature of the filler up to 95 degrees, have improved strength characteristics, and high thermal insulation properties. The outer diameter of PN-25 pipes varies from 21.2 to 77.9 mm, the inner diameter - from 13.5 to 50 mm. The release form is standard - 4 m lengths.
The internal reinforcing layer reduces the expansion coefficient of the pipeline, which reduces deformation microdamage to polypropylene and increases the service life of the product.
Attention! Before starting work on installing a pipeline made of polypropylene pipelines, it is recommended to practice soldering. To do this, you should buy the cheapest material, cut it into pieces, which need to be connected to each other in various variations, using couplings and fittings.
When planning and calculating a heating system in a private house, in addition to the type of pipeline, it is also necessary to correctly select its diameter. There are several constant rules here:
Thus, based on these requirements, experts recommend the following types of pipes for use in heating systems of private households: with a pipeline length of no more than 50 m and a circulation pump, it is necessary to use a PN-25 pipe, with an internal diameter of 20 mm to 30 mm, in the absence of a pump - from 25 mm to 35 mm.
If the total length of the pipeline is more than 50 meters, then it is necessary to use a pipeline with a large internal diameter, observing the rule - when the length increases by 10 m, the diameter increases by 2 mm. In this case, it is allowed to use pipe sections with a diameter 25% smaller than the diameter of the main pipeline as inlets to heating devices.
When used, it can be used for a return line that removes coolant from a PN-20 pipe.
Important! To connect the heating main to the heating boiler, it is necessary to use pieces of metal pipe at least half a meter long. This will prevent damage to polypropylene products from exposure to high temperatures.
Standard, frequently used diagrams for connecting heating devices to the main line, used for installing polypropylene pipes, do not differ from those made from other types of materials. Here it is possible to classify schemes according to three parameters:
Options for implementing the scheme for the location of the water main
There are 2 types of coolant supply:
Distribution by number of risers
Depending on the number of risers supplying hot coolant, the following options are possible:
Layout by number of pipelines
Here, two options for installing the highway are possible:
Thus, when choosing a heating pipeline installation scheme in a private house, it is worth taking a closer look at the option with one riser and a two-pipe system on each floor and a lower supply with a two-pipe scheme in the case of a one-story building. These methods are the most practical, maintainable and economical.
Before starting work, you need to thoroughly prepare:
After this, you can begin installation work, be sure to follow some recommendations:
By following simple rules in the process of choosing polypropylene products for installing a heating system in a private home, choosing the heating scheme wisely and following the instructions during soldering, you can do all the work yourself. At the same time, the quality and accuracy of the work will depend only on the owner of the private house.
Content
The popularity of polypropylene pipes is explained by the technical characteristics and properties of the material, as well as the affordable cost. Due to low roughness inner surface the circulation rate of the coolant does not slow down, and the low level of thermal conductivity keeps its temperature constant. The ease of connecting elements allows you to assemble heating in a private house from polypropylene pipes with your own hands in the most short time, minimizing costs.
We make heating from polypropylene on our own
Basic technical specifications pipe elements made of polypropylene material can be recognized from the markings, the symbols of which form an abbreviation.
As a rule, the designation is applied to the outer wall of the product and contains:
Physical properties heating pipes made of polypropylene indicate undeniable advantages before metal products. This may include:
When assembling a heating system with polypropylene pipes, individual sections are welded together. The advantage of this method is to minimize the number of threaded, fitting and other assembly connections. Soldering eliminates the possibility of leaks, therefore hidden laying of the line is allowed.
The cost of polypropylene pipes is comparable to the price of rolled ferrous metal, but significantly lower than copper or steel products.
A special feature of PP pipes is the presence of important restrictions during installation. Not allowed:
When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the temperature parameters of the products. They must correspond to the project values accepted for heating systems made of polypropylene pipes in private houses.
Size selection
The diameter of the elements is selected depending on the heating scheme in a private house.
When creating a gravity-flow system (without installing a pump), the pipe cross-section should be selected with a large diameter, since the lack of water injection must be compensated for by an increased volume of coolant.
Installation of a heating system made of polypropylene pipes is impossible without connecting them to metal-plastic or metal products. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the standard combination of sections of joining pipes made of different materials.
The length of the circuit, for which a heating device from a boiler with a power of up to 12 kW is effective, is about 25 m. To heat six ten-section radiators, a 20x3.4 mm PP pipe will be required. If it is necessary to extend the line, heating should be made from 32x5.4 mm elements or radial wiring should be performed.
Wiring options
PP pipes are laid out in two main ways:
Installation in accordance with the first option is possible when installing a central riser in the house, from which one- or two-pipe horizontal branches extend to each floor. Systems of this kind are chosen for heating two- or three-story buildings for both residential and commercial purposes, and also, in the last few years, for multi-apartment buildings.
The horizontal wiring option can be divided into two types:
The coolant circulates on each floor or inside the apartment in stages, which creates considerable inconvenience for residents. If repair work or replacement of a separate heating radiator is necessary, the entire perimeter must be completely disconnected.
The advantages of a perimeter-type polypropylene heating system are that the pipeline can be laid in a hidden way, under the floor. All wiring is placed in one horizontal level, without taking up extra space. But draining the coolant from a single perimeter is difficult.
When installing heating from polypropylene pipes with your own hands, one of the weakest points, which also requires a lot of time, is the solder connection of individual components and sections. Instead of welding, fittings of different shapes and cross-sections can be used.
Pipe installation most often requires the use of the following types of fittings:
Coupling – simplest type connecting devices, which are used when connecting pipes of the same diameter. For joining pipes different sections adapters are used.
Angles will be required where the pipeline turns. They allow you to arrange the pipe to go in the desired direction at any angle without deformation. The elements have external metal threads, which allows for joint assembly of the PP pipe with any plumbing fixtures and appliances.
A triple fitting will help connect several pipes at the same time. Such parts are made of plastic and are suitable for pipelines that differ in both diameter and material of manufacture.
For pipeline lines running around the facility, special fittings are made - contours. With their help, excessive bending of pipes is prevented.
Using all these elements, you can join pipes using a threaded connection. In such cases, it is necessary to use the “American” one. This fitting has, on the one hand, a metal thread, and on the other, a polypropylene base. This ensures a reliable connection between metal and plastic.
When choosing fittings, you need to pay attention to their cross-section. It must match the diameter of the pipes.
It is recommended to buy fittings from the exact manufacturer from whose pipe products you plan to assemble the heating system. Only in this case can we talk about the quality of the connection.
A residential heating scheme using polypropylene pipes is no different from schemes using other materials. She may be:
Single-pipe is used for short-length circuits in small houses. A single pipe connects all devices in turn and reaches the heating device through the return line. The circulating liquid loses part of the thermal energy, therefore, even when installing regulators, it is not possible to achieve uniform heating of all rooms.
Heating in an apartment or private house with two pipes involves assigning one separate line for coolant supply and return. The productivity of this option is slightly higher than the previous one, but it does not solve the issue of uniform heating of the radiators.
The best option for private houses of large area can be called a heating system arranged according to a collector (radial) scheme. From the distribution manifold, pipes (supply and return) go to individual heating devices and small circuits. In this case, hot water is supplied to all areas at the same time.
The collector circuit is arranged with upper or lower wiring. The first option involves locating the highway in attic, risers descend to individual circuits or devices. A special valve must be installed at the top point to remove air. This method of heating a private house with your own hands is used when natural circulation coolant in buildings with a height of two floors or more.
Bottom installation involves installing the main line below the floor level, the risers in this case go up.
Work on installing polypropylene heating begins with bringing the pipes inside the room to “acclimatize” them and eliminate the consequences of expansion or contraction in the heat or severe frost.
The main work when connecting pipes is welding polypropylene (solder). For these purposes you should. The process itself does not take much time and is simple. The main thing is to quickly connect the heated ends of the elements, being careful not to overheat them. The duration of heating depends on the diameter of the pipe. The larger it is, the longer the heating should be. The cross-section of the soldering device nozzle must correspond to the diameter of the pipe.
Step-by-step instructions for assembling the heating pipeline are as follows:
Do-it-yourself polypropylene heating also requires the installation of control equipment, a boiler, heating devices, an expansion tank, and a pump. Their installation is carried out according to the instructions and recommendations of the manufacturer.
How to properly install a polypropylene heating system in a private home?
In the immediate vicinity of the boiler, all fittings and pipes are installed only from metal. A plastic faucet cannot be installed, as it will become unusable too quickly and begin to leak. It is recommended to place a bronze tap and threaded adapter, followed by a polypropylene pipeline.
The pipeline connection to the boiler should be made through an “American” connection. It is not recommended to install plastic taps near tee bends, as this makes the entire assembly vulnerable: if the tap fails, both the tap and the fitting will need to be replaced.
Before you start heating your home, you should draw up a house plan, showing each element on it. All elements of the system must be provided with unhindered access in case possible repairs, replacement or shutdown.
In horizontal sections, it is necessary to install a dirt filter, and on both sides of it - shut-off valves, eliminating the need to drain water from the circuit.
A distance of at least 5 cm must be maintained between adjacent pipes. The pipes are fixed to the wall with a fastening step depending on the diameter and type of product.
If you are assembling a polypropylene heating system yourself, you should consider the most important feature PP products: the ability of the material to increase length up to 15%. When heated, the length of the contour may increase, which will lead to its deformation. Therefore, for each section longer than five meters, the installation of a compensator is required. It is made in the shape of the letter “P” from bends or a ready-made loop is used.
Due to thermal expansion, most supports must be made movable. When installing a compensator U-shaped Both sides require fastening with movable supports.
Compensators must be installed with the loop facing down to avoid airing the system.
Even an inexperienced person can install a heating system made of polypropylene pipes. The process is quite simple, does not take much time, and with a correctly drawn up project and following the technology for performing the work, it ensures efficient and reliable heating of the house.
Increasingly, when installing water supply or heating in both apartment buildings and private houses, craftsmen give preference not to metal pipes, as was the case before, but to polypropylene pipes. And this is not surprising, because such material is definitely more convenient to install. This fact allows all the work to be completed even by a person without any specific knowledge or experience. At the same time, you can make heating in a private house from polypropylene pipes with your own hands, even alone, without resorting to anyone’s help. Today we’ll look at how you can do this kind of work, how difficult it is and what you’ll need for it.
Read in the article:
Previously, when installing heating with metal pipes, there was a problem with bends. Had to do extra threaded connection in the form of a knee, which is not very good. After all, the more individual parts, the more vulnerable the structure. Of course, it was possible to bend the pipeline at the desired angle, but without special equipment such actions were difficult to accomplish. There was a danger of fracture, which entailed a loss of pressure in the system. Another problem was corrosion, which over time rendered the metal unusable.
Now, if heating is installed from polypropylene pipes, these problems do not exist. This material bends easily in any direction. Of course, this does not mean that you can do whatever you want with it; you need to know moderation in everything.
Regarding fittings (connections), we can say that their quality is much higher than that of metal ones. At the right approach a soldered joint or elbow will last no less than a solid pipe. In other words, you shouldn’t be afraid to make connections. The main thing you need to learn to install polypropylene heating is how to use an iron (a device for soldering pipes and fittings). It's quite simple and won't be too difficult.
An advantage that cannot go unmentioned is that this material is not subject to corrosion, which significantly increases its service life. Many experts say that high-quality heating welded from polypropylene pipes can be called eternal.
Today the manufacturer offers a fairly wide range similar products. You must pay attention to this when purchasing - after all, design differences also affect the operating conditions of polypropylene pipes. Such products can be either single-layer or multi-layer. Let's start with single-layer ones, as they are the simplest. They may be marked:
Reinforced polypropylene pipes for heating are called multilayer - fiberglass or aluminum is laid between layers of plastic. Such plumbing products can already be bent, although they are cooked no worse than single-layer ones.
Reinforcement can be as follows:
Related article:
In the article we will analyze in detail the main selection criteria, what types of pipes exist, their advantages and disadvantages, how and how to insulate the heating system, advice from professionals.
It should be understood that external reinforcement makes it quite difficult to solder the pipeline (the coating in the welding areas has to be removed), which means it is better to pay attention to products with fiberglass or composites.
Which propylene pipes for heating are better is of course up to each person to decide personally, but if you pay attention to the characteristics, then those reinforced with fiberglass have no competitors. Indeed, in this case, the product, in principle, cannot delaminate. The reason for this is that during manufacturing the fiber is literally soldered into polypropylene, and not glued to the layers, as happens with the aluminum layer.
The main thing to understand if you decide to replace the heating line in a house from metal to polypropylene is the difference external dimensions. It is the inner diameter that must match, while the outer diameter will be different. This happens due to the fact that the walls of polypropylene pipes are thicker than those of steel pipes. When installing heating in houses, products with a cross-section from 32 to 40 mm are most often used. If we're talking about oh, then in this case 16 mm is enough.
“The internal diameter of polypropylene pipes for heating a private house, presented on Russian shelves, is always identical to the cross-section of the old ones steel pipes. This was done for the convenience of replacing old communications.”
There is one more nuance that should be taken into account when purchasing such material. The size of a PP pipe is usually indicated by its outer diameter, which means it is very easy to make a mistake. As a result, you will either have to go to the store again and change the pipes (if possible), or pay money again and buy what you need. To prevent this from happening, you need to do the following. Knowing the required internal size, you need to clarify outside diameter PP pipe and subtract two wall thicknesses from it. This is how we get the data we need.
Several main manufacturers of propylene fiberglass-reinforced heating pipes are presented on the shelves, the prices for which, by the way, are quite reasonable. The cost depends, like any other product, mainly on the brand. The quality of almost any of the market leaders is quite acceptable. Of course, this does not apply to polypropylene pipes, which are sold at too low a price. In general, if there are products on the shelves whose cost is several times lower than the average, you should be wary. Nowadays there are quite a lot of fakes, the quality of which can be very unpleasantly surprising not only during the installation process, which is not so scary, but also during operation. Agree, it’s quite unpleasant if pipes leak at the most inopportune moment. Although it is unlikely that any moment for an accident can be called suitable.
Let's try to consider the average prices per meter of polypropylene pipes for heating in Russia.
Brand | Working pressure, bar | Operating temperature, degrees C | Meters per package | Manufacturer country | Average cost, rub./m |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
FORMUL | 20 | 95 | 60 | Türkiye | 91 |
KraftFaser | 20 | 95 | 60 | Russia | 89 |
VALFEX | 20 | 95 | 60 | Russia | 81 |
SPK | 20 | 95 | 60 | Türkiye | 106 |
FIBER | 20 | 95 | 60 | Russia | 144 |
Here are the five main manufacturers represented on our shelves. But you can’t do the installation with pipes alone, and therefore it’s worth finding out the prices for fittings. There are quite a lot of them, which means it makes sense to consider only angles of 90 0 as the most popular. The price is indicated for a package of 10 pcs.
Name and size | Image | Average cost, rub./m |
---|---|---|
Elbow with high-pressure pipe LF 20x1/2" PPS (M-Plast) | 25,88 | |
Elbow with high-pressure pipe LF 20x3/4" PPS (Firat) | 45,34 | |
Elbow with high-pressure pipe LF 25x1/2" PPS (Firat) | 35,89 | |
Elbow with LF 25x3/4" PPS (Firat) | 45,48 | |
Elbow with spigot LF 32x1" (turnkey) PPS (Firat) | 105,23 | |
Elbow with hex LF 32x1/2" PPS (MINDE) | 25,08 | |
Elbow with LF 32x3/4" PPS (Firat) | 55,78 | |
Square with no. LM 20x1/2" PPS (M-Plast) | 33,79 | |
Square with no. LM 20x3/4" PPS (Firat) | 61,32 | |
Square with no. LM 25x1/2" PPS (Alpha) | 51,33 | |
Square with no. LM 25x3/4" PPS (Firat) | 60 | |
Elbow with N/R LM 32x1" turnkey PPS (Firat) | 117,43 | |
Square with no. LM 32x3/4" PPS (Firat) | 69,90 |
This is the average cost for similar products. If we talk about those who have already replaced the usual iron pipes for polypropylene, it would be interesting to look at their reviews:
Chivas, Russia, Rostov-on-Don: Two years ago I decided to do the heating in the house, wiring it to batteries and connecting it to gas boiler, (having previously had a little experience in this). I settled on Turkish-made Kalde reinforced polypropylene for hot water, because it was “at a good price”, before that I had dealt with “pilsa”, but unlike it, “kalde” solders a little better, and there is much less stink when soldering . When I soldered everything together I decided to test it for strength, so to speak. When tested under water pressure of 2 atmospheres and a temperature of +70 degrees, the pipes were almost not deformed, all joints remained dry, and did not bend or lead anywhere. They've been working for the second season, for a low price - I'm happy!
More details on Otzovik: http://otzovik.com/review_722036.html
valer1234, Ukraine, Kolomyia: Experience working with products from this manufacturer for about 8 years. I first encountered them when I was renovating my house and had to change the water supply and heating pipes. Back then there was a small choice of manufacturers, but fortunately I chose these. Although I didn’t really understand this at the time, my intuition along the way did not let me down. When soldering, this pipe behaves very pleasantly - it heats up slowly and cools down slowly...
More details on Otzovik: http://otzovik.com/review_3159924.html
Of course, reviews from professionals about polypropylene pipes for heating are not as enthusiastic as those from beginners, but still they admit that they are really easy to install and durable.
Laying heating lines does not raise any special issues, and therefore you need to consider the soldering process itself step by step. In addition, if welding any polypropylene pipes various types is the same, then the preparation for this process for those reinforced with aluminum, both inside and outside, has its own nuances. We will try to identify them now.
Photo example | Action to be performed |
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![]() | Here is the outer layer of aluminum that must be removed in order for the soldering to be strong and of high quality. Otherwise, the elements will not weld together, which can lead to leakage. |
![]() | It is with this device that the outer layer is removed. |
![]() | We put the stripper on the pipe and turn it several times until the aluminum layer is completely removed. This is what a pipe ready for soldering should look like: |
![]() | We put both parts (corner and pipe) on the heated iron... |
![]() | ...after which we press them all the way. Heating time – from 3 to 8 seconds, depending on the diameter |
![]() | Having removed the parts from the iron, insert the polypropylene pipe into the corner until it stops and wait 3-5 seconds. |
![]() | After this the connection is ready for use |
![]() | As for the polypropylene pipe with internal aluminum reinforcement. The photo shows: on the left - external reinforcement, on the right - internal |
![]() | For internal reinforcement there is another stripping. The steps are the same as with the previous pipe, but... |
![]() | ...it works a little differently. By removing part of the internal reinforcement, such stripping allows the pipe to be soldered in such a way that water has no access to the aluminum layer. This eliminates the risk of moisture getting between the layers of the pipe. |
If the reinforcement is made of fiberglass, the pipe does not require any special preparation before soldering. As it becomes clear, installing and welding polypropylene for heating in a private house with your own hands is not a very complicated process and even a schoolchild can master it.
Important! You must be very careful when working with the iron. Its surfaces heat up to high temperatures, which can cause burns. It is best to work in thick gloves with gauntlets.
The best solution before starting heating installation work in the house would be a little training. To do this, you need to take into account the stock when purchasing material. It is better to buy 10-15 of the cheapest fittings and 2-3 m of pipe just for this purpose. After cutting pieces of pipe with special scissors and heating the iron, you need to try how well the welded joints turn out.
Important! When combining a pipe and fitting after heating, you should try to connect them as evenly as possible. Only in this case will the soldering be tight and the line neat.
You should not save on polypropylene pipes by buying those reinforced with aluminum. Especially if you have no experience in such installation. It is better to purchase fiberglass polypropylene pipes. They are much easier to weld. Also, do not forget that when heated, polypropylene expands, which means you cannot mount the fitting directly against the wall. It is better to leave a gap of 2-3 cm. This will allow the pipe to “play” when heated.
Welding polypropylene pipes with your own hands, although not difficult, requires complete composure, care and accuracy from the master. Only in this case will the heating be performed as intended.
If anything remains unclear, we suggest you look short video on how to solder polypropylene pipes:
The main heating distribution systems in the house are considered to be one-pipe and two-pipe. Although some masters, when too large areas They also offer a three-pipe system, we will not consider it due to its complexity and rather rare use.
The simplest and most common is the one-pipe system. Its only drawback is that it is not applicable with a large number of radiators. Such heating distribution schemes include Leningradka. The problem is that if the distance and number of batteries between the first and last radiator is large, then the temperature difference between them will be quite sensitive.
A slightly improved version of the same single-pipe system is a scheme called the “Tichelman loop”. However, it does not completely save the situation if the area of the private house is large. In this case, a two-pipe system is used. With all its positive qualities from a heating point of view, it also has a negative side - the required pipe length doubles. We talked about installation schemes for single-pipe systems with polypropylene pipes, as well as double-pipe ones, in one of our articles.
Speaking in general terms, of course, it is best for a novice master to work with a single-pipe system - it’s quite simple. But even if there is no experience, and the area of the house is large enough, it is quite possible to install heating with polypropylene pipes using a two-pipe system. To do this, you just need to study a little more information on this topic.
“Before starting work, it is necessary to draw up a draft of the future system. This will help not to get confused in the intricacies of highways, and in the future – in timely inspection to avoid accidents.”
Only by fully understanding all the diagrams of the systems that exist (there are very few of them) can you decide how the distribution of polypropylene pipes in the house will be arranged.
Surely everyone understands that do-it-yourself installation of heating with polypropylene pipes consists not only of drawing up a wiring diagram and welding the main parts. It is very important to secure the pipes correctly on the wall, under the floor or behind a suspended ceiling. After all, everything should look aesthetically pleasing.
Important! Under no circumstances should heating pipes be allowed to overlap one another. This will significantly reduce their service life and may cause an accident.
Installation of PP pipes is carried out using plastic “clips” required size, which are attached to the surface using self-tapping screws or dowel nails. It is possible to connect several “clips” together for the convenience of the installer. Polypropylene itself is most often hidden in niches under the floor, although walls and ceilings are also a good option. The main thing is the free space around them, which will allow them to “play” during the heating process.
The information obtained from reading articles is, of course, important. But an example that you can look at is usually more clear. That is why we offer you to watch a video on how to install polypropylene pipes with your own hands using the example of hot water supply, which is practically the same thing:
Well, to consolidate the information received, here is another video about welding polypropylene pipes:
If a home craftsman has already mastered a soldering iron and can weld a pipe with a fitting, then the question of how to connect a heating radiator to a polypropylene pipe should not arise. But we will still understand it step by step.
If the line has already been connected to the place where the radiator will be installed, we hang it in place and try on what length of pipe sections are needed for the connection. We solder fittings with brass threads to them using an iron. If necessary, you can purchase Ball Valves, which will regulate the heating temperature of the radiator.
For your information! Shut-off valves play another very important role. If you need to replace the heating radiator, you will not need to shut down the entire system. It is enough to close the supply and return, then freely remove the battery and replace it.
When the polypropylene pieces with fittings are ready, we connect them to the heating main and screw on the radiator - that’s all. The main thing is not to forget to mark all the lines before piping the heating radiator with polypropylene pipes. This point is very important - because it will help in the future not to get confused during installation and routing on the collector.
Most often, home craftsmen say that they cannot complete this or that work when they are simply afraid to take on it and this is - main mistake. You need to believe in yourself (not to be confused with self-confidence). Having realized that there is nothing overly complicated in working with polypropylene pipes, you can easily install any, even the most complex heating system. After all, it is not the gods who burn the pots, and everyone once did it for the first time. Therefore, you should remember that the main thing is strict adherence to instructions and rules, accuracy and extreme care. It is in this case that polypropylene heating will provide warmth to you and your loved ones for many years to come.
We hope today's conversation was useful to someone. If you have any questions, we are always happy to answer them in our discussions.
And in conclusion, another interesting video.
The topic of reliability, efficiency and durability of the heating system of private houses in our country will always be relevant for the reason climatic conditions. Therefore, homeowners have to think about how to achieve this with minimal investment of money and time.
Heating system made of polypropylene pipes in a private house
To do this, at a minimum, the following conditions must be met:
Extensive long-term experience in the operation of steel pipes and cast iron radiators indicates the difficulties in these heating systems during installation and operation. The main disadvantages include the large weight of all elements, which makes it difficult installation work and contributes to the clogging of pipes with scale products and rust. Gradually people are moving away from these ancient technologies.
Use a heating system with copper pipes very practical, it does not rust, so it is durable, but very expensive. All more people tend to use polypropylene pipes. Let's consider this option.
Technologies for installing polypropylene pipes
There are many models of polypropylene pipes. We will describe what can and should be used.
Mandatory requirement for the heating system - only selected heat resistant pipes and connecting elements capable of withstanding temperatures of at least 80°C.
They must be reinforced; there are three types:
Pipe reinforcement with foil along the inner diameter
The most the best option pipes reinforced with glass fiber are considered; they are soldered well and have a low expansion coefficient. Pipes reinforced at the outer diameter must be stripped of reinforced foil at the joints before soldering. These are unnecessary problems and the possibility of deformation. All listed options must withstand pressure of 6-7 atmospheres.
Pipe parameters correspondence table
Size, mm | Outer diameter, mm | Wall thickness, mm | Water capacity, l/m |
---|---|---|---|
PN20 pipes for heating systems, operating temperature 80°C, maximum 90°C, pressure 6 atm., lengths 4 mm | |||
16*2,7 | 16 | 2,7 | 0,110 |
20*1,9 | 20 | 3,4 | 0,172 |
25*2,3 | 25 | 4,2 | 0,266 |
32*3,0 | 32 | 5,4 | 0,434 |
40*3,7 | 40 | 6,7 | 0,671 |
50*4,6 | 50 | 8,4 | 1,050 |
63*5,8 | 63 | 10,5 | 1,650 |
75*6,9 | 75 | 12,5 | 2,340 |
90*8,2 | 90 | 15,0 | 3,360 |
110*10,0 | 110 | 18,4 | 5,040 |
PN20 Al pipes for heating systems, operating temperature 80°C, maximum 90°C, pressure 6 atm., lengths 4 mm | |||
16*2,7 | 17,8 | 2,7 | 0,088 |
20*1,9 | 21,8 | 3,4 | 0,137 |
25*2,3 | 26,9 | 4,2 | 0,216 |
32*3,0 | 33,9 | 5,4 | 0,353 |
40*3,7 | 41,9 | 6,7 | 0,556 |
50*4,6 | 51,9 | 8,4 | 0,866 |
63*5,8 | 64,9 | 10,5 | 1,385 |
75*6,9 | 76,9 | 12,5 | 1,963 |
90*8,2 | 92 | 15,0 | 2,827 |
110*10,0 | 112 | 18,4 | 4,208 |
It is advisable to use couplings, swivel fittings, and valves without metal elements. Connections are made only by welding, with both ends inserted into the coupling - this is the most reliable and durable connection.
Control valves: couplings and fittings
It is recommended to buy pipes and all components from European manufacturers, for example, Germany, the Czech Republic. Turkish production is still far from perfect: uneven reinforcement layer and wall thickness along the outer and inner diameter.
If you want to do a high-quality installation yourself, you should start by drawing up detailed diagram indicating not only the locations of the main elements, but other parameters:
Heating layout in the house
The common pipes are chosen with a large diameter, and the radiator bends have a smaller diameter.
Based on this data, you can accurately calculate what you need to buy and what consumables and tools you will need.
For a private home, the best option for assembling a heating system is considered to be “Upper Spill” - a gravity-flow type scheme. It is simple and can be done with your own hands. There is no need to install forced pumps to circulate coolant fluid. You should not increase the diameter of the common main pipe, this will only slow down the circulation and increase heating costs. The optimal diameter for these purposes is 63 mm.
After purchasing all the necessary materials, installation occurs. It begins with cutting pipes with special scissors to pre-calculated sizes. Then the pipes are laid out according to the laying route diagram. It is important that the ends of the cuts are 90 degrees.
The soldering apparatus must be placed horizontally on the surface, with a fat-free nozzle selected according to the size of the pipe. Preheat it to 360°C. At the same time, the connecting surfaces are heated in the working hole of the soldering iron. Then we insert the pipe into the fitting.
The parts must be heated to room temperature before soldering. If you solder a fitting brought in from the cold, the structure of the plastic will be damaged due to a sharp temperature change. This connection will not last long.
Soldering points on pipes and fittings must be thoroughly cleaned and degreased, using vodka or alcohol with water 1:1. Upon completion of work, you need to make a connection: fill the system with water and check operation for two hours at maximum temperature up to 90 degrees.
Scissors for cutting polypropylene pipes
You can watch about the mistakes a novice master makes when soldering polypropylene pipes in this video. It also contains current ideas for optimizing this process.
Polypropylene pipes have become actively used for the installation of heating systems in private homes. Consumers are attracted affordable price, ease of assembly, which you can do yourself, high quality and reliability of the work performed. This largely explains their popularity these days.
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