MODERN CROSSBOWS - BASICS, TERMINOLOGY, CLASSIFICATION
The popularity of this weapon is growing, more and more people want to touch this wonderful example of human progress. After all, humanity has always strived to hit targets faster, more accurately, and from a greater distance. Some want to touch their childhood dream, some hunt, some want to make a crossbow with their own hands, and some just like to shoot at a target. Most newcomers to the crossbow business have many questions about which crossbow to buy or make, what a “block”, “guide”, “shako”, “cable” is, how a “block” differs from a “classic” and many other questions.
Indeed, the former powerful throwing weapon of ancient armies is experiencing a kind of “Renaissance” in our time, now it is available to almost everyone. Any citizen who has reached the age of 18 and has a passport can purchase a crossbow with an arc force of up to 43 kg, which has an appropriate certificate. Naturally, there are also restrictions - in our country, crossbows with a tension force of over 43 kg are considered weapons, and hunting with them is prohibited. That is, even if you have a hunting license, it’s not your destiny to hunt with a crossbow. Perhaps, after some time, something in this regard will change in our legislation, and the hunter will be able to feel what it is like to be one on one with a powerful beast, when one arrow is loaded and there is no room for error, since reloading a crossbow, even with a cocking lever, takes quite a long time. Naturally, the hunter with a crossbow bears more responsibility, since there is no opportunity to fire a second shot and finish off the wounded animal. The shot must be fired from a short distance and certainly in an area incompatible with the life of the animal.
The point of this article is not to tell where and how the crossbow (crossbow) came from, but to explain what parts a crossbow consists of, what types of crossbows there are, what accessories are used for them, types of ammunition, tensioning devices, etc.
1. Main parts of the crossbow and basic terms
A modern crossbow, of course, in its operating principle (the release of a projectile being thrown by a bowstring held by a trigger mechanism, through a trigger lever (hook), due to the stored energy of an elastic element (arc, shoulders) located across the bed) is no different from its older brother, however The design has undergone quite significant changes.
First, let's look at the main parts of the crossbow using the example of a device with the so-called “classical” layout (Fig. 1). The most noticeable difference between it and the usual old crossbow design will be the presence of separate arms instead of a solid arc. But since the vast majority of modern crossbows have such separate arms, they are actually the “classics” of our time.
Fig.1. Main parts of a crossbow.
Fig.2. Crossbow with a single guide stock
All parts of the crossbow are mounted on a single profile - a guide. There are crossbows in which all the parts are attached directly to the stock and there is no such part as such. In this case, the guide is the groove in which the arrow is placed. An example of such a crossbow is shown in Fig. 2. Please note - the crossbow shown in the last picture also has simpler - straight shoulders. The guide should not have any bends or curvature, because in essence it is the “barrel” of the crossbow. You yourself understand what shooting from a weapon with a crooked muzzle will be like. The guide, in the part along which the bowstring and arrow will move, is polished for better sliding of the projectile and less wear on the winding of the bowstring. Also, additionally use lubricant. The bowstring is rubbed with wax (beeswax or special wax for bowstrings).
As mentioned above, in most modern crossbows the arc is made split, that is, in fact we have two separate arms. Firstly, it allows the arms to be raised so that they are level with the top edge of the guide without tilting, which reduces friction between the string and the guide; secondly, it allows the shoulders to be positioned more parallel to the guide; and thirdly, for ease of transportation. It is very important that both shoulders have the same characteristics in terms of geometric parameters and physical properties.
The arms are attached to the guide or directly to the stock using a block - this part, which carries a serious load, is subject to fairly stringent requirements for strength and geometry. After all, the synchronization of the work of the shoulders will depend on the accuracy of its manufacture, and the reliability and health of the shooter will depend on its strength. In general, in a crossbow, for proper operation and accurate shooting, the accuracy of the manufacturing of the mechanisms must be at a fairly high level.
Fig.3. Crossbow-pistol with a separate superstructure over the castle
The bowstring is an important and very important part of the crossbow. It must meet several requirements - be strong, light, flexible, not stretch, and hold a tug well. Mostly, modern crossbows have a bowstring made of synthetic fiber Dyneema. Fishing braid is also made from the same fibers, which, due to its wide selection and availability, is one of the best materials for weaving a bowstring yourself. On the bowstring, in places of friction against the guide and on the loops thrown over the ends of the arms, a winding is made, for example, from nylon thread. Such a winding is rewound as it wears out - this mainly concerns the warhead, where the bowstring wears out the most.
A trigger mechanism (SM), which is also called a lock, is mounted in the rear part of the guide. This mechanism keeps the bowstring cocked and allows it to be easily released when the trigger (lever) is pulled. It can be assembled directly into the guide or have a separate housing mounted into it. If the guide, as a separate part, is missing, then the lock cuts directly into the stock. The body of an SM crossbow in the upper part usually has a superstructure on which sighting devices or rails, such as a dovetail, Weaver or Picatinny rail, are mounted, for all kinds of optical or collimator sights. Also attached to the superstructure is an arrow clamp, which is a leaf spring that keeps the arrow from falling out in a loaded crossbow. On some crossbows, the superstructure is not part of the lock, but is attached as a separate part to the crossbow above the SM (Fig. 3). There are add-ons that can be adjusted - they change the angle of inclination, which makes it possible to adapt the crossbow sights to longer distances, because the flight of an arrow in terms of flatness (straightness) is much inferior to that of a firearm. Although, in my humble opinion, this does not make much sense, since the speed of the arrow drops quite strongly with distance, and the time it takes for it to fly, for example, 200 m, is quite long. Naturally, the lethality at such a distance is low.
Fig.4. Assembling the main parts of the crossbow
A little about the crossbow stock. In principle, there are no big differences from firearm stocks. The only thing is, due to the superstructure and highly raised sights, the butt line is located higher. The guide assembly with the remaining parts of the crossbow is attached to the stock or, as mentioned above, all parts of the crossbow are mounted on the stock itself. An example of assembling the main parts of a crossbow is shown in Fig. 4.
2. Classification of crossbows
According to state standards of the Russian Federation [Change No. 1 GOST R 51905-2002 Sports crossbows, crossbows for recreation and entertainment and shells for them. Technical requirements and safety test methods], crossbows are usually divided into:
universal sport-hunting and match crossbows, which are throwing weapons and intended for use in sport hunting, in the educational and training process and during competitions;
sports crossbows (traditional, field, etc.), not related to throwing weapons, which are sports equipment intended for use in the educational and training process and during competitions;
crossbows for recreation and entertainment, not related to throwing weapons, which are household products intended for leisure and mass sports;
homemade crossbows (in terms of determining whether they belong to throwing weapons during forensic examinations).
The main criterion for gradation is the strength of the crossbow's arcs (Table 1).
Table 1
For the same guest there is the following classification table (Table 2). This is what concerns the legislation and standards of the Russian Federation.
table 2
Fig.5. Sports match crossbow.
But I would like to propose a slightly different classification of modern crossbows.
Classification by purpose:
1. Sports match crossbows
2. Copies, replicas of ancient crossbows
3. Crossbows for fun and recreation
4. Hunting crossbows.
With match crossbows (Fig. 5), in general, everything is clear - this is a separate class of crossbows that are a sports equipment and at the same time, according to the forensic requirements of the Russian Federation, a weapon. We will not dwell on them in detail.
Fig.6. Replica of a medieval crossbow (by "Dirty" Burdwood)
Next, in second class, are copies and replicas of ancient crossbows - military, sporting and hunting crossbows manufactured before the 20th century. That is, these are Greek gastraphetes, and arquebuses (a crossbow with a barrel), and schnappers with balestres (crossbows that fire bullets), as well as classic crossbows, with cocking devices improved over the centuries - with a belt hook, with a “goat leg”, with an English collar, with a cranekin. Naturally, according to the same forensic requirements, most copies, especially authentic ones, will be weapons. But replicas of ancient crossbows have only external similarities with the originals, and even then, often the external differences are so significant that only to a person completely inexperienced in crossbows, such products may seem like a copy (Fig. 6). Materials for manufacturing can be any, including a variety of polymers. Such crossbows may well fit within the legal limits of 43 kg. Copies and replicas of ancient crossbows are mainly souvenirs and museum products, as well as the path of fans and re-enactors of these weapons. Although, there are quite a large number of crossbow unions abroad that specialize specifically in antique crossbows and hold meetings, exhibitions and shooting competitions. But still, such crossbows are not suitable for recreational shooting, especially for spears, due to their power (again the notorious “43 kg”), the complexity of manufacturing ammunition (the shape of ancient bolts is mostly spindle-shaped), which often simply shatter into splinters upon impact o target.
Let me make a comparison: being interested in antique crossbows is akin to smoking a pipe. This is a manifestation of a certain aestheticism, listen to how such people speak about their hobby: “...to get pleasure from smoking a pipe, it takes time. This is a cigarette you can smoke while running, at work, in the toilet. Pipe is a ritual. Choose an hour or two, relax. Let the bustle leave you for a while. Slowly and carefully hammer in the tube. Relax comfortably in your favorite chair. Light it lovingly and take a mouthful of aromatic smoke. Release a puff of smoke and feel how all your problems dissolve in it. Your hand is warmed by a gentle and devoted friend, and in her beauty, in the convolutions of wood patterns and smooth lines, you will discover something new for yourself every time. Such beauty and devotion in women is sometimes more difficult to find than in pipes...” ( http://voffka.com/archives/2006/09/19/029976.html).
Let's move on to the so-called crossbows for entertainment and recreation. The majority of crossbows on the market are of this class. This includes pistol crossbows and rifle crossbows of all designs not exceeding a peak cocking force of 43 kg. Many crossbows in this group are from the following class - the hunting class, but with weakened shoulders by the standards of our country. Although with 43-kilogram shoulders, this is especially true for block crossbows, due to their design features, you can hunt small game and birds. For example, one of the record holders for arrow speed, Bowtech “Desert Stryker” (Fig. 7), was equipped for the Russian Federation with weakened arms of 43 kg.
Fig.7. Bowtech "Desert Stryker"
There are no serious design differences in hunting crossbows. The main thing is their powerful shoulders - up to 80 kg in block crossbows and up to 150 or more in classic crossbows. This allows you to send a heavy arrow with a broadhead tip (three or four bladed hunting tip) to the target with good energy. Naturally, hunting crossbows are always the most expensive and most well-equipped devices.
Classification according to the design of the power section.
1. Crossbows with classic shoulders:
a) with simple shoulders;
b) with recursive arms.
2. Block crossbows:
a) with a pulley system of 2, 4, 6 and 8 rollers;
b) with round eccentric blocks;
c) with oval eccentric blocks;
d) with binary eccentrics.
3. Crossbows with non-classical shoulder placement:
a) with reverse shoulders;
b) with a different arrangement of arms and a system of rollers (blocks).
Let's look at the above structures in order. Simple shoulders in a free state without a bowstring are a straight or slightly curved plate towards the shooter (mono-bow) or a pair of such plates (split shoulders). Most ancient crossbows had a monobow, but in modern crossbows split shoulders have become more common. An example of simple separate shoulders is a model from the Canadian company “Excalibur” for the teenage generation (Fig.. Also, such shoulders are not uncommon among home-made people due to the availability of material (springs from cars, as well as other spring elements - saws, torsion bars) and ease of manufacture An example of the author’s homemade product with shoulders made from a circular saw blade is shown in Fig. 2.
Fig.8. Crossbow Excalibur "Apex Light"
The majority of modern crossbows of the “classical” layout are equipped with recurve arms. Such shoulders differ from straight ones in that they have a characteristic and quite noticeable bend forward at the ends. In a free state, without a bowstring, the ends of such arms, as a rule, go forward further than the line of the bowstring and even further than the middle of the bow, forming an arc curved away from the shooter (Fig. 10). The degree of recursiveness can vary widely. Almost all crossbows produced by the same company “Excalibur” have such shoulders (Fig. 9, 10).
Rice. 9. Excalibur “Equinox” crossbow with recurve arms.
Rice. 10. Excalibur “VIXEN” crossbow front with arms without string.
Recursive shoulders can also be mono (Fig. 11) or split.
Fig. 11. Barnett "Commando" crossbow with a recurve mono arc.
Both simple and recursive shoulders are made with a narrowing from the root to the ends. Often both in width and thickness. This is done so that the shoulders bend when tensioned evenly along the entire length, or even a little more towards the ends, which helps to increase the efficiency of the shoulders - the weight decreases, the speed of straightening the shoulders increases.
Recursiveness helps achieve even greater efficiency. The curved ends of the arms provide additional leverage, which, as the bowstring is pulled, seems to increase the length of the arm, changing the distance from the center of rotation (from the center of the bow) to the bowstring. That is, as the resistance of the arc increases, the leverage by which we overcome this resistance also increases . Thanks to this, the recurve bow draws more evenly, its force changes less throughout the entire working stroke, and with the same tension as a regular (simple) bow, the recurve bow has a much greater preload*, which gives it the opportunity to push the arrow with greater force to the very end. In fact, there is a partial change in the “gear ratio” of the arc force to the string.
(*A bow with a bowstring installed, but in an uncocked state, is pre-tensioned, that is, it has a preload. The amount of preload is selected in such a way that the material from which the arms are made has a margin of safety for the required working stroke of the bowstring. That is, a compromise is found between the power of the arc and the properties of the material from which it is made. In simple words, we shorten the bowstring - we increase the preload, accordingly the power of the bow changes to a greater extent, but the chance of its breakage also increases with the ensuing consequences of possible injury to the shooter.)
The next stage in the development of crossbows was systems with a pulley system. The pulley is a clip with one or more round movable rollers (Fig. 12). In theory, depending on the multiplicity (the number of cable branches and the number of rollers) of the pulley, it is possible to reduce the tension force of the bowstring from two to four times (systems with two, four, six, eight rollers) and increase the speed of movement of the bowstring when shooting at the same number of times.
Fig. 12. The principle of operation of the block and pulley. a – single block (with one cable stretched along the groove of a single pulley); b – a combination of two single blocks with a single cable covering both pulleys; c – a pair of double-groove blocks, through four paired grooves of which a single cable passes.
Also, a system with a pulley system allows you to reduce the transverse dimensions of the crossbow, since the stroke of the end of the arm in them is significantly less with the usual length of the working stroke. In practice, in addition to the advantages, there are also disadvantages of this system: losses due to friction of the cable on the rollers, friction of their axes, movement of the mass of the shoulder shackles (earrings are the roller clips at the end of the arms), non-parallelism of the cable branches (strings, which in pulley systems significant).
In Fig. 13 shows an example of how by adding a pair of rollers and the same stroke of the ends of the arms, the stroke of the bowstring increases.
Fig. 13. Comparison of a pulley system with simple arms.
Most factory-designed pulley crossbows have eight rollers (Fig. 14). Crossbows with two rollers are extremely rare (Fig. 15), as well as with six – I can only cite as an example the wonderful homemade “Lynx” crossbow from Zmeelink (Fig. 16). There are many homemade devices with four rollers (Fig. 17), and there are also factory ones (Fig. 1.
Fig. 14. Crossbow Interloper "Black Python".
Fig. 15. Crossbow from Ralph's
On factory and many homemade crossbows, the middle rollers are connected to the next pair by a rod, as in Fig. 14, 17, 18, but practice has shown that it is better to make them rigidly fixed to the guide, which allows them to be lowered below the level of the rollers at the ends of the arms without interfering with the free movement of the bowstring and the straightening of the shoulders (Fig. 16, 19).
Rice. 16. Crossbow “Lynx” from Zmeelink
Rice. 17. Crossbow from daf13
Rice. 18. Crossbow-pistol Interloper “Aspid”.
Rice. 19. Crossbow with eight rollers, the middle ones are rigidly fixed
For optimal operation of pulley systems, the arms, relative to the guide, should be located as parallel to it as possible, since the bowstring acts on the ends of the arms through rollers, which tend to bend the arms not towards the shooter, but towards each other. That is, the sharper the angle between the shoulder and the guide, the better. Of course, if the arms are placed parallel, this will significantly reduce the transverse dimensions of the crossbow, but will also increase the longitudinal ones. Therefore, here it is worth looking for the “golden mean” - and the shoulders are rarely placed at an angle less than 45 degrees to the guide. A good solution was suggested by http://forum.arbalet.info/viewtopic.php?t=2802&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=960 igora - pseudoparallel shoulders (Fig. 19).
Rice. 19. Pseudoparallel shoulders, by igora
As the author himself described it: “The essence of the proposed 2nd method is to make the shoulders of an ordinary one-piece monobow work just as parallel to the stock (which is what all manufacturers strive for) while remaining a regular arc and even without bending at all. At the same time, the gear ratio of the chain hoist used increases. Moreover, for example, in the figure, the chain hoist in the 2nd version will give a gear ratio approximately like that of an 8-roller, but in reality only two of them are added. Well (and most importantly!) the direction of the forces applied to the shoulder will be corrected). The biggest problem I see is the long string, but not longer than the 8-roller.”
The shoulders of pulley crossbows are made short and rigid, often without narrowing in width and thickness, because the stroke of the end of the shoulder in these systems is small, and the force that the shoulders must create is several times higher than in “classical” systems. The material of the factory shoulders is unidirectional fiberglass. Homemade, most often - springs from cars,
The pulley transfers force from the shoulders to the string through a certain gear ratio (which usually reduces the force and increases the stroke). But since this gear ratio is constant, then as the bending increases, the force on the arc increases in the same way on the bowstring. To get rid of this, and to further improve the shooting qualities of crossbows, so-called blocks appeared. They allow you to transfer force from the shoulders to the bowstring with a variable gear ratio, thereby ensuring that, regardless of the degree of bending of the arc and the force on it, the desired force is always on the bowstring. Some of the simplest blocks are round eccentric blocks. This is a more complex system compared to a pulley system - each block consists of two rollers secured together, the axis on which it rotates is offset from the center (Fig. 20). There are two bowstrings - one of two parts, connecting the power rollers of the blocks and the opposite ends of the arms, is called a power or technical bowstring (blue with a yellow fork in the figure), and the second is a combat or high-speed bowstring, which directly accelerates the arrow (white with a red winding, Fig. 21).
Fig.20. Round eccentric blocks (the hole for the axle is highlighted)
Rice. 21. System with round eccentric blocks
The layout and reeving of bowstrings in systems with round eccentric blocks is shown in Fig. 22. Also, the ends of the power strings can be attached not to the rollers at the ends of the block axes (Fig. 21), but by means of a transition piece under the block, attached to the axle (Fig. 23).
Due to the fact that the power string does not extend much lower than the speed string, it became necessary to lower it somewhat so that it does not interfere with the lower feathering of the arrow. Therefore, all crossbows with eccentrics have a characteristic slot for a power bowstring, with a guide part running inside it along with two slots for the left and right power bowstrings (Fig. 22).
Fig.22a. Location of blocks, string and pressing part (top view)
Fig.22b. Location of blocks, string and pressing part (bottom view)
Another feature of the eccentrics is that at the end of the tension, the operation of the block provides the so-called reset - a sharp decrease in the tension force. Therefore, in such crossbows, the tension force is measured by the peak force, and not by bringing the bowstring to the lock, as with simple and recursive arcs or in pulley systems.
Rice. 23. Barnett “Lightning” crossbow with round eccentrics.
The next stage in the development of crossbows was the use of oval eccentrics instead of round blocks (Fig. 24). The shape of these blocks only resembles an oval, but in fact it is more complex. The fact is that in such blocks, the force on the bowstring is controlled not only by simply shifting the axis of the block, but also by changing the very shape of the rollers that form the block. This allows you to create absolutely any desired force on the bowstring throughout its entire working stroke. A small illustration of the operation of an oval eccentric (Fig. 25 (by Andrey 74)) shows how the gear ratio between the power and speed parts of the block changes during its unwinding.
By combining the shapes and sizes of the power and speed parts of the block, as well as their relationship with each other, you can select the optimal characteristics of force, speed and stroke of the bowstring for specific shoulders. Examples of crossbows with oval eccentrics in Fig. 26, 27, 28.
Rice. 24. Oval eccentric blocks
Rice. 25. Illustration of the operation of an oval eccentric (author andrey 74)
Fig.26. Ten Point "Phantom"
Rice. 27. Darton “Serpent”
Rice. 28. Crossbow Parker “SAFARI CLASSIC”
On some models of crossbows with oval eccentrics, the blocks are installed in the opposite direction and the bowstring lies on the side opposite to the shooter - these are the so-called “mirror blocks” (Fig. 29). In this case, the crossbow becomes somewhat more compact in the longitudinal direction than with the usual arrangement of eccentrics.
Rice. 29. Parker “Cyclone” crossbow
Recently, there has been a tendency to increase blocks almost to the size of archers. By winding more string from the blocks, we get a larger stroke of the string, which means that the transverse dimensions of crossbows can be further reduced. Despite the fact that with such large eccentrics, the stroke of the crossbow string approached 45 cm! The most striking representatives of the new generation of crossbows and record holders for arrow speed are the PSE “TAC-15” (Fig. 30) and Bowtech “Stryker” (Fig. 32) crossbows. Both crossbows are unique in their own way.
Let's take a closer look at the TAC-15. Due to its huge eccentrics, the width from axis to axis of the blocks in the uncocked state is 42.5 cm, and in the cocked state - 29.8 cm. And the stroke of the bowstring is a record for a crossbow - 45 cm! With a peak force of 77.2 kg, it is capable of sending a 425 grain (26.44 g) arrow at a speed of 125.6 m/s. At this time, this is an absolute record for crossbows. The kinetic energy developed in this case is up to 217 J, sufficient for hunting any large animal. The crossbow is also unusual in that the back of the crossbow is from an AR-15 (M16) automatic rifle - as you know, this rifle has a modular design (Fig. 31). Therefore, any weapon based on the M16 can be easily converted into a crossbow. The TAC-15 has a built-in winch-type cocking device. One more point - the arrow of this crossbow does not lie on the guide, but, like a bow, rests with its leading edge on the shelf. And the arrows recommended by the manufacturer also have a record length for crossbows - 26.25 inches (~66.7 cm)!
Rice. 30. Crossbow PSE “TAC-15”.
Rice. 31. AR-15 rifle
Rice. 32. Crossbow Bowtech "Stryker"
The Bowtech "Stryker" crossbow has slightly more modest characteristics, it launches an arrow weighing 425 grains at a speed of 123.4 m/s, while having a kinetic energy of 210 J. Its width from the axis to the axis of the block in the untensioned state is 69.2 cm, and when stretched it is 61.6 cm, the peak tension force is 79.45 kg with a bowstring stroke of 432 mm. But the Stryker has one feature - binary eccentrics, which classifies it as the next subclass of compound crossbows.
What are the differences between binary eccentrics and ordinary oval ones? Let's try to figure it out. All compound crossbows have one bad feature - the center of their bowstring (arrow stop) can shift to the left or right due to the fact that each one rotates independently, as a result of which shooting accuracy decreases. In binary systems, the blocks have an additional third pulley, onto which the other end of the power string on the right or left side is wound, due to which synchronization occurs (Fig. 33. (author igora)). In Fig. Figure 34 shows for clarity an example of a binary eccentric of a compound bow.
Rice. 33. Illustration of the operation of binary eccentrics from igora
Rice. 34. Binary eccentric compound bow
Even the brilliant Leonardo da Vinci came up with a design for crossbows with reverse arms (Fig. 35), and only recently did crossbows of this design begin to be mass-produced. The first sign was the Armcross "LeoPro" crossbow, created by Russian designers (Fig. 36). The main advantages of such crossbows are: compactness (reduced longitudinal and transverse dimensions), better weight distribution, reduced shot recoil, because when shooting, the shoulders do not move away from the shooter, but as if to each other and a little “into the shoulder.” In Fig. 37 you can see how compact the LeoPro is. Among the disadvantages of a crossbow, we can highlight the sharp angle of tension of the bowstring (Fig. 3, due to which it is convenient to cock the crossbow only using a cocking device, and also, purely hypothetically, it can be assumed that the shoulders, which are too close to the shooter’s face, can break injure.
Rice. 35. Schemes by Leonardo da Vinci
Rice. 36. Crossbow Armcross "LeoPro"
Rice. 37. Crossbow Armcross "LeoPro" with a specially designed unloading vest
Rice. 38. Cocking the Armcross "LeoPro" crossbow using a tensioner (shown below to the right)
Rice. 39. Crossbow Horton “Recon 175”
Another crossbow with reverse arms is produced by the Horton company - “Recon 175” (Fig. 39). Please note that both of the most famous crossbows with reverse arms have round eccentrics, which does not prevent them from showing very good characteristics - the initial arrow speed reaches 99 m/s.
It is not advisable to make such crossbows with a classical layout, that is, without blocks, since the shoulders will “run away” in the direction opposite to the tension and the efficiency, relative to crossbows with a classically located arc, will be much lower.
Recently, another player has appeared in the camp of crossbows with reverse arms - “Scorpyd” (Fig. 40). According to new trends, its blocks are binary and large in size. The stated initial speed of the arrow is 425 feet per second, which corresponds to 129.5 m/s! The stroke of the bowstring of this compact crossbow reaches a record 52 cm!
Rice. 40. Crossbow “Scorpyd” SLP
Among homemade products there are also crossbows of a similar design. Almost all have a similar “LeoPro” design, but mostly with a pulley system with two or four rollers (Fig. 41, 42, 43).
Fig.41. Crossbow from OLEKS
Fig.42. Crossbow from sa1982
Rice. 43. Crossbow from Frank
So, it’s time to touch on the last type of crossbow with a non-classical arrangement of shoulders - this is a crossbow that was released by the Swiss company Swiss Crossbow Makers - “Twinbow II” (Fig. 44). This crossbow is unusual not only in the location and operation of the shoulders, but also in its unique cocking device (Fig. 45). With compact dimensions (length 875 mm, width 420 mm) and a bowstring stroke of only 197 mm, it has very good power - with a tension of 180 kg, arrow speed of up to 113 m/s and energy of 145 J! When the bowstring is tensioned, the arms become almost parallel; both ends of each arm work through a roller system. As a result, the recoil when shooting from such a powerful crossbow is practically not felt.
Fig.44. Crossbow “Twinbow II”
Fig.45. Cocking the Twinbow II crossbow
There are several homemade crossbows made according to the “Twinbow II” design. The gunsmith111 crossbow (Fig. 46) uses a twin system without a cocking lever. But on shushai crossbows the main feature of the Swiss is implemented - cocking with a lever (Fig. 47 and 4.
Rice. 46. Crossbow from gunsmith111
Rice. 47. Crossbow “Twilight” from shushai
Rice. 48. Crossbow “Cyclone” from shushai
PART 2
3. Triggers of modern crossbows.
As mentioned above, the trigger mechanism (lock) of a crossbow can be an integral part of the design of the guide (stock) or can be mounted in a separate housing. The latter are found much more often both among crossbow manufacturers and home-made people, due to the convenience of installing a ready-made trigger mechanism (SM) in any place.
With all the variety of modern crossbow triggers, locks can be divided into three main types:
a) with a lower hook (nut, cracker) (Fig. 49a);
b) with an upper hook (Fig. 49b).
c) with a fixed hook (pin lock) (Fig. 49c)
A) 
b)
Rice. 49. Triggers with lower (a) and upper (b) hook
Attention: when using materials from this article, a link to the site, as well as an indication of the author of the article REQUIRED!
Do you have an interest in medieval culture? Do you want to get a fashion accessory or amaze your friends with an exclusive souvenir? Have you decided to give an unusual gift to a loved one? Then you can easily make a magnificent crossbow right at home! This particular type of sporting weapon is now rapidly gaining popularity, and people are happy to purchase it for themselves as a souvenir, a catchy design element. Why do you need a bow, what to do with it? Here are just a few of the most common ways to use a crossbow.
Now that you know how useful onions are and how they can be used in different ways, it's time to familiarize yourself with the basic principles of making them. How to make a crossbow at home, what do you need to know so that it looks good, shoots well, and can become a worthy weapon, souvenir and accessory? We'll find out very soon. The algorithm and useful recommendations will help you.
You will need to choose your wood well. You can’t take coniferous trees, too old, dry branches. A crossbow consists of three main elements. It is necessary to make a high-quality trigger mechanism, stock and arc. Act strictly according to the algorithm, do not confuse the steps. You will succeed!
I don't think that when we decide to make a crossbow, we will have at hand all the tools we want and a bunch of raw materials. Therefore, it is difficult to predict what our crossbow will be made of, so we will simply consider the main components made with minimal complexity. We will also, if possible, avoid metal parts.
In order to present a general view of what should happen, I will give a picture from the site www.daslife.ru.
Naturally, I do not suggest doing everything according to size, just taking into account the overall structure.
One of the most important parts of a crossbow is the arc. As you might guess, it has a decisive influence on the speed of the arrow, and therefore on the combat power of the crossbow. An arc can be made from both wood and metal. A wooden arch can be either made from a single piece of wood or combined.
The option using one type of wood is the simplest, but also the least powerful. Almost any type of wood is suitable for manufacturing: ash, maple, hazel, juniper, birch, oak, yew, elm, white acacia. You can use both thick branches and trunks of young trees. Ideally, take the harvest in winter when there is no sap flow; naturally, the worst time is in spring. As you might guess, a workpiece with knots is a completely unsuitable option. In general, making an arc is in many ways similar to making a bow, and you can read about it on Hobbit's blog.
Making a composite arch is not cheap, because it requires covering the arch with tendons and horny plates. Most likely you won’t have either one or the other, or glue on hand =)
Although we agreed to use wood, it is worth noting that the springs of Soviet passenger cars will make very powerful arches, and if possible, they should be used.
Attaching the arc to the stock is usually done to the end of the crossbow using ropes, through a window 10-15 centimeters from the arc. The picture shows examples of fastening the arc; as you can see, wooden wedges can be used to secure the arc. 
Another important element is the trigger mechanism. Let's consider the simplest option - a pin lock. 
When erected, the bowstring hooks onto the protrusion, and underneath there is a cylindrical pin (1) that rests against the body of the trigger lever (2).
Also, to ensure that the arrow does not leave the crossbow before the shot, it is recommended to apply a little pressure. Similar to the one shown in the photo. 
The crossbow stock, the recess in which the arrow is located, is perhaps the most labor-intensive part of the crossbow and requires filigree processing. If we don’t have a metal stock processed on a milling machine (and we don’t), we can replace it with a carefully sanded wooden one. Do not forget that the advantage of a combat crossbow over a wooden bow is not only in shooting power (although a homemade crossbow without rollers and a block system is unlikely to exceed a bow in this indicator), but primarily in the convenience of its design and the ability to conduct aimed fire. To do this, it is necessary, taking into account the flight path of the arrow, to adjust the stock so that it is located at an angle. The average value is 5.6 degrees, but we advise you to decide on the distance at which you will send the arrows, and what is called “shoot” the finished product, after each series of shots changing the angle of the stock until your homemade crossbow begins to send arrows exactly at target.
Well, the last point is the bowstring tension device. Since the tension force of the crossbow arc can exceed 100 kg, at least the simplest device for tensioning the crossbow should be provided. 
And finally, a photo of a homemade crossbow. 
Making a crossbow string(taken from www.turmaster.com/)
During a shot, the bowstring receives significant tension and rupture pressure; therefore, one of the conditions imposed on it is its ability to withstand a large number of shots, i.e. have durability, vitality. In addition, the bowstring should be light and low-stretch.
The following threads are used to make bowstrings: lavsan, dacron, kevlar, deinema, SVM, fastflight and other synthetic fiber threads.
In this case, you need to have a simple device.
As can be seen from the figure, it consists of a wooden plank, in which on one side there is a slot and a movable threaded rod, allowing it to be installed and secured in different places; at the other end of the plank on the axis there is a V-shaped part made of plywood or wood with a thickness of about 10 mm. Two rods are permanently fixed at the ends of the part. The V-shaped part is fixed in two positions. The first position is shown in the figure, in the second position the two rods are in line with the movable rod.
If such or a similar device is not available, the string can be wound between two nails driven at the required distance along the length of the string. Winding the thread is done in a circular motion of the hand with uniform tension on the thread. The number of threads depends on the strength of the bow
After the bowstring is wound, a safety winding is made of the loops and its middle.
The safety winding is made using twisted silk thread, nylon, nylon, or cotton bobbin thread. When making a bowstring from Kevlar threads, it is necessary to strengthen the loop, either by making additional padding from the threads and weaving them into the bowstring, or by doubling the number of them in the loop. After winding the middle of the loop, the V-shaped plate is rotated to its original position and the end of the bowstring is wound.
The second loop is wrapped in this way. In this case, it is necessary to accurately maintain the middle of the winding. The string attached to the bow should not have sagging threads; their presence indicates poor-quality manufacturing of the string. As a rule, this happens if the windings are not made with the same tension.
The safety winding in the middle of the string is made at the moment it is put on the bow. The safety winding should not be made too tightly: this significantly extends the service life of the bowstring.
To protect the bowstring from moisture, lightly rub it with beeswax. The wax should be rubbed in carefully so that the string threads do not break or become deformed. It must be remembered that lubricant increases the weight of the bowstring and leads to a decrease in the speed of the arrow, so it should be lubricated with a small amount of wax.
The threads from which the bowstring is made, under the condition created by the work of the shoulders, are lengthened (from lavsan or dacron by 2-3%, from Kevlar by 0.8%). In this regard, when making a bowstring from Kevlar, it is recommended to make it slightly longer than from lavsan and dacron.
Shooting practice involves replacing bowstrings after 5,000-10,000 shots. Kevlar bowstrings last significantly less and can withstand about 2000-5000 shots.
By twisting the bowstring, you can change its size until the accuracy of shooting becomes satisfactory. The maximum number of turns to change the length of the bowstring is 30. If more turns are required, it means the string is too long and a new one should be made
Making a crossbow string 
Metal rope string
A cable with a thickness of 1.5 - 2.5 mm is suitable for making a crossbow bowstring. But it has a number of features that must be taken into account. In general, a bowstring made of synthetic threads is more preferable.
Features of using a metal cable:
Structurally, the cable is designed for static loads. Under dynamic loads, it collapses much faster.
Over time, the cable will stretch and, accordingly, the bowstring will weaken
The mass of a rope bowstring significantly exceeds the mass of the same bowstring made of synthetic materials. This indirectly affects the speed of the arrow, since the arms require more energy to accelerate the massive cable.
When chafing or excessive stress occurs, the cable, as a rule, breaks in places of kinks, knots, fastenings
You can get loops at the ends of the cable by tying it with an ordinary oak loop. Soldering, as a method of connecting cable ends, is less reliable in operation. Riveting the ends of the cable in a copper or brass tube has worked well. 
Loops for attaching a bowstring to a crossbow.
Some examples of more complex trigger mechanisms 
To make a reliable crossbow yourself, great desire and hard work are not enough. We still need to acquire the necessary knowledge base, technical and material resources. You can, of course, grab a piece of wood and a car spring, and start sawing, planing, sharpening and drilling with the tenacity of a maniac, roughly focusing on the found drawings of the crossbow design. But as a result, it may turn out that your crossbow is too heavy, inconvenient, and in general you did not get what you dreamed and imagined.
What to do? First, you need to decide exactly what kind of crossbow you want to make. After all, there are a huge number of varieties of this throwing weapon and each has its own technical features.
Secondly, you need to know exactly your capabilities in terms of the equipment with which you will make each part of the crossbow. And thirdly, think carefully about where and what material you will take to make this or that crossbow design.
Well, let's start by replenishing our knowledge about crossbows and their varieties. First, let's look at the general structure of the crossbow.
As a rule, any crossbow consists of the following parts and mechanisms:
Now let's touch a little on the classification of crossbows. All crossbows are classified according to several criteria.
Classification according to the tension force of the crossbow arms:
Classification according to the type of bow used.
Classification according to the type of shoulders used.
Classification according to the crossbow stock used.
Classification by tension method.
Now that we have some idea about the design of crossbows, you can think about which design is suitable for you, taking into account your technical capabilities. That is, do you have the opportunity to use metal and woodworking machines? Believe me, having only a plane, a drill and a hacksaw on hand, you will not be able to make a real high-quality crossbow. Some parts can only be made by a competent turner. Even if you have detailed drawings of a crossbow in your hands, you will have to use maximum effort, creativity, and ingenuity to do everything beautifully and technically competent.
Let's start making the crossbow with the stock. First, let's select the right wood. We need a type of wood that will not warp or chip and will be sufficiently viscous. These parameters are fully met by species such as beech, ash, walnut or birch.
A board 30 cm thick is quite suitable as a starting material for a bed. Now you need to decide on the size of the bed. The figure below shows how to determine its size to suit your physical parameters.
Where:
A is your basic physical dimensions.
B - dimensions of the future bed.
B - retraction of the bed and its change to the side, which depend on the width of the chest (B2)
The stock is measured from the beginning of the trigger to various points located on the back of the butt. To adjust the stock to your body size, use the figure above. But the average sizes are:
Based on this table and taking measurements of your own body, you can choose the optimal size of the crossbow stock that will suit you perfectly. Difficult? It’s okay, as they say “hard to learn, easy to apply”
Next, you can proceed to the actual production of the bed itself. It is recommended to first cut out a template from paper, drawing a bed on it according to the dimensions that you measured and determined using the table. can be easily found on the Internet.
We will talk about how to make a crossbow stock, trigger and shoulders step by step in other articles. Here our task is to learn how to determine the dimensions of the crossbow parts you need and the material from which they will be made.
Now let's see where we should start making the crossbow's shoulders. And we need to start, as always, by choosing the material from which we will make the shoulders. I think you have already decided what kind of crossbow you will make: with a compound bow, or a monobow.
The material for making the shoulders can be as follows:
The highest quality crossbow arms are made from fiberglass and composite materials. Below is a drawing with the dimensions of fiberglass arms with a tension of up to 40 kg.
A car spring can be used to make a monobow. The string is attached to it either using wheels or pulled onto a trident.
Mono bow with bowstring fastening using rollers.
Retail outlets sell many different crossbows to suit every taste. But you can not only buy it, but also make it yourself, if you were inspired to create it by a movie or a visit to a museum. Of course, manufacturing requires certain skills in handling tools, but if you really want it, there are no barriers.
When making a crossbow, start with an arc. Since it was decided that it should be powerful, then for the arc you need to take a leaf from the spring of a UAZ car. Then, using a grinder, we cut out an arc from this petal. It should be 85 cm long, 3 cm wide in the center and 1.5 cm at the edges. Next, using a sharpener, give the thickness in the center 0.8 cm with a gradual transition to 0.4 cm at the edges. Further processing of the arc is done using files of different grain sizes and sandpaper. It is good to process a spring lengthwise; it is almost impossible to process it crosswise with a file. Then, using a pobedit-tipped drill, make holes for attaching the arc to the stock and for fixing the bowstring holders.
The next step will be making the stock. It is better to make it from ash. This is a fairly strong tree that does not splinter or crack. Take a board 90 cm long, 20 cm wide and 6 cm thick, plan it on a jointer until it is level. Then draw a drawing of the stock with a pencil; you can take a hunting rifle as a sample. Next, use a hand jigsaw to cut the bed out of the board. Using a woodworking rasp, finely process the stock, giving it the necessary and convenient shape. The process is long and quite labor-intensive. For finer sanding, use different types of sandpaper. The groove for the arrow must be made with a whetstone. Take a used soft abrasive stone, give it a round profile using a harder stone, and place it on a sharpener to make a cut. The groove will be smooth and of the same depth.
Next we will work on manufacturing the trigger mechanism. Using a chisel in the stock, make a recess for the “nut” and the spring. Make the “nut” that will hold the bowstring from a piece of iron without welding, so that it is stronger, since it will bear the entire main load. On the stock, where the “nut” is attached, install iron “cheeks” so that the force of tension does not tear it out of the wood. Place the return spring under it and connect it to the trigger guard with a rod. Next, cover the trigger mechanism with metal decorative plates. Screw the pads to the stock with powerful screws to make it stronger.
Then start making fastenings, with the help of which the arc is fixed to the stock. To do this, take two iron bars and bend them in an L-shape. Use a tire with a thickness of 6 mm and a width of 25 mm. Drill holes in them for attachment to the stock and to the arc. First, secure the L-shaped parts with two M6 bolts to the stock. Then make a “stirrup” for the leg and weld a tire to it, which was supposed to become an additional mount for the crossbow arc. Then secure the “stirrup” and the bow to the stock with two M8 bolts and nuts. To hold the arrow, make a piece of spring steel. Bend the iron bar into an L-shape and attach it to the stock with a bolt, and a piece of spring tape to the bar. As a bowstring, use an iron cable 4 mm thick. Paint all metal parts with black paint, and paint the wooden stock with stain and clear varnish, which will give the crossbow a rather elegant look.
Make arrows from pine. Use a circular saw to cut straight slats from a dry board. Then, using glass and sandpaper, give them a round shape of the required thickness. Make the feathering on the arrows from thin fiberglass, and the tips from old files. Attach the tips to the shaft with epoxy glue and thin wire. They will be light with the correct center of gravity and quite strong; they should be 40 cm long and 1 cm thick.
In general, it will turn out to be a great crossbow. The target combat range of such a device is about 70 meters, the arrow's flight range is close to 400 meters, it pierces a slate sheet from 10 meters, and if the arrow is driven into a tree, then it must be removed with a hammer and chisel. The accuracy is also quite good, and if you use a laser pointer as a sight, it becomes absolutely fantastic.
In order to assemble a real rapid-fire combat crossbow at home, which can be quickly and automatically reloaded without any extra effort, you need to have a lot of spare parts that you naturally won’t find at home (rollers for a nylon cable instead of a bowstring, a sight and a high-quality trigger). In this article, I’ll tell you how to assemble a simple crossbow in a home workshop or in the utility room; I’ll describe some practical basic subtleties that will make your toy crossbow a fighting machine!)
The shoulders of a crossbow can be made from the same material as for a bow: wood, iron or fiberglass (iron - a spring from a Moskvich car is good for this, and a polypropylene pipe, which you can buy, is good for fiberglass at any hardware store). The crossbow stock, the recess where the arrow will be inserted in the future, is perhaps the most difficult part to manufacture, which requires very precise processing and a lot of time spent.
In the absence of a well-processed metal stock on a factory machine, you can use a well-turned and then sanded wooden stock. Do not forget that the advantage of a combat crossbow over a wooden bow is not only in shooting power (although a homemade crossbow without rollers and a block system is unlikely to exceed a bow in this indicator), but primarily in the convenience of its design and the ability to conduct aimed fire.
To do this, you need to calculate the flight path of the arrow, adjust the stock so that it is located at an angle (average value 5-6 degrees), but I advise you to decide on the distance at which you are going to send the arrows, and what is called “shooting” the finished product , after each series of shots, changing the angle of the stock, until the crossbow made by your hands begins to shoot at the center of the bull's eye.
You can come up with your own trigger mechanism for a simple crossbow. Usually this is a lever that holds the bowstring, which can be removed by pressing the trigger. A necessary condition is that it fires exactly when you need it (with a high tension on the bowstring, a weak trigger can break and shoot on its own). The string should move so that when it is released it returns close to the stock, but without any friction. Below is a diagram and drawing of making a simple combat crossbow at home:
Attention! Manufacturing this type of weapon may be punishable by law! Information for peaceful purposes only. All responsibility falls on the shoulders of the person.
Below are more detailed drawings and diagrams (with indicated dimensions) that can be used to make a professional crossbow.
Despite the abundance of online stores selling throwing weapons, as well as a fantastic range of products, there are many who want to make a crossbow on their own. Most of them don't know where to start. Today we will tell you about the main design features of the crossbow. This knowledge will help you avoid manufacturing errors, as well as frustration and injury when using it.
Before starting work, there are two main points to know.
1. In our country, a crossbow is an entertaining and sporting weapon. Hunting with it is prohibited. Any throwing weapon with a tension force of more than 43 kilograms is considered a combat weapon, the right to use which is given by the licensing authorities of the Ministry of Internal Affairs.
2. A crossbow is a structure that experiences enormous loads during operation. Therefore, any carelessness in its manufacture will most likely lead to injury. Any part of it must have a multiple safety margin.
So, let's learn how to make a simple crossbow at home.
The video below will tell you how to make a crossbow at home:
Onion
The crossbow's energy source is the bow - an elastic plate of complex shape, having one main bend and, as an option, two additional ones at the ends. You need to start making a crossbow with this particular part and adjust everything else to it - choosing the type of tension (recurve or block), the size of the stock, the type of trigger.
The urgent question is what to use as a material for the bow: wood, composite or metal?
· Wood is the worst choice. Available “pieces of wood” lying underfoot are garbage, suitable only for lighting stoves. Branches cut down in the forest lose their elasticity as they dry, crack and fall apart. From this material you can only make something for short-term entertainment in the country.
· A composite made from fiberglass and epoxy resin is very attractive and simple in appearance. But there is an obstacle - the need to scrupulously adhere to the technology of all work. Mix proportions, drying, aging. At home this is almost impossible.
Metal
There is only one option left - metal. If you have an old Moskvich with a set of leaf springs on hand, consider yourself lucky. One sheet is taken from the entire package - the second. If you are not too scared by the dimensions, then the first one will do. Moreover, it has tubes at the ends - an almost ready-made bracket for attaching blocks or bowstrings.
A block is used to attach the bow to the stock. This is a U-shaped design that wraps around the stock from the front. It can be welded tightly to the spring leaf, but in this case, when the bow is bent, the welds will experience excessive pull-out stress. Therefore, it is better to attach the ball joint from the VAZ 2108 to the block. The bow is attached to its pin. This is also convenient because there is a hole on the spring leaf.
If you are very strong, then you can choose the recursive method of tensioning the bowstring. To attach the blocks to the bow, if you have chosen a second spring leaf, you need to attach brackets to its ends. A bolted (or even better, rivet) connection is preferable to welding, since this unit experiences strong vibration loads. As pulleys, use parts of the window lifting mechanism of the same Moskvich.
Regarding the bowstring, an obvious solution arises: a thin metal cable. But it is not entirely correct, since steel cables do not withstand variable loads well. It is better to choose a climbing cord with a diameter of 5-8 mm.
Once you've made your bow and attached the string to it, you can conduct full-scale bending tests. It’s great if you have a dynamometer of 100-150 kilograms. As a result, you will learn two parameters necessary for further work: the length of the bowstring stroke and the load.
Read below to learn how to make a stock for a powerful crossbow at home.
Lodge
For this part of a homemade crossbow, wood is the only option. But not everything. In any case, not aspen, alder, spruce or pine. Better beech, elm, oak. The product has been dried for twenty years. It is clear that you will never find something like this anywhere. Therefore, use moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of 7-9 mm. 3 or 5 contours of the stock are cut out of it, and then this package is glued together with epoxy resin. Not very pretty, but extremely reliable.
· Regarding the shape - give up the semi-pistol style and use a straight English stock. It is not only easier to manufacture, but also stronger.
· When assembling the stock package, it is necessary to take into account both the stroke of the bowstring and the load. The first determines the distance from the block to the slot for the trigger mechanism. The second is the thickness of the stock walls at the place of its attachment. It is the straight English stock that will allow you to avoid excessive thinning when moving from the forearm to the butt.
· The most important part of a crossbow stock is the arrow guide. It should be smooth and durable. For it, you can use the plates framing the side windows of the Moskvich, furniture fittings, and other similar-shaped parts.
· If you use a block type of bowstring tension, then there should be a groove in the forend under the guide for the cable system. This is another element that weakens the stock, so give up the idea of making the forend dainty. High will protect your fingers from getting caught under the bowstring and traumatic amputation of the phalanges.
Typically crossbows have a plastic stock.
Below we will tell you how to make a homemade trigger mechanism for a crossbow at home.
This video will tell you how to make a crossbow from wood (plywood) with your own hands:
Trigger
If you are not a sixth-class mechanic, then give up the idea of making this element yourself. Make an effort and find the trigger for any spring-piston air rifle. In the most difficult case, you will only have to modify its tooth that holds the piston - it may be too small for a thick bowstring.
A casing with a height of 2 to 5 cm is placed above the trigger mechanism, which is necessary to protect it from moisture and dirt, and also serves as the basis for sighting devices - rails for optics or rear sights. Weaver, Picatinny or dovetail rails can be purchased at any online store that sells pneumatics.
The front part of the casing above the trigger mechanism is made in the form of a long (no more than 10 cm) elastic “tail”, which holds the back of the arrow on the guide.
Making arrows
Canonically correct crossbow ammunition is called a “bolt”. But many online stores sell crossbow arrows. For crossbows with a rifle stock, lengths of 14, 16, 20, 22 inches are suitable. To be completely honest, you won't find better magazine arrows. Unfortunately, none of them are worth less than 150 rubles. Therefore, it is worth trying to make them yourself.
They can be made from straight-layer wood without knots. As an option, use furniture parts - balusters from chairs, railings of cribs. Good arrows are made from aluminum tubes up to 2 cm in diameter. If desired, you can even use electrodes of the maximum diameter, but they bend hopelessly when hit and it is difficult to attach the feathers to them.
Thin plastic is used for the plumage. Natural bird feathers can give the unexpected effect of chaotic changes in flight direction, since they have natural curves that must be taken into account.
The main condition for a good, smooth flight is balancing. The center of gravity of a crossbow bolt should be after the first third of its length from the tip. If it is not metal, the end of the arrow can be loaded with lead wire wrapped around the shaft.
The issue of equipping an arrow with a tip must be treated without fanaticism. Sharpening metal on lathes, milling and polishing, giving it exquisite shapes - these operations are accessible to few. In addition, such a tip is extremely dangerous. If you do not need to pierce knight's armor, then a wooden bolt can simply be sharpened at an angle of 30 degrees using a regular knife.
There are classic models, they look like ancient ones, and their design is simple. There are also modern crossbows, they are called "block" crossbows. Such weapons have a more complex design due to blocks and other innovations that enhance their power. It will be much more difficult to make such a crossbow at home, but the description of this process and the drawings, which will be detailed in the article, will help you with this. A crossbow has many components: a bow; bed; trigger mechanism; bowstring; some modern models have blocks at the ends of the bow.
All of these rocks are dense enough to withstand the enormous stress that will be placed on the bow and crossbow stock. Material Preparation For a weapon to fire long and powerfully, its material must be properly dried for a year. Having cut the required trunk or branch, both cuts must be painted over. To do this, you can use any glue, paint or varnish. If you close the cuts in this way, moisture will not be able to quickly leave the workpiece, so the wood will dry more slowly and evenly. This way, internal cracks do not form in the material, and a crossbow made with your own hands at home will serve for a very long time. After this, the log is placed in a dry place where the sun's rays will not fall on it. It should remain like this for a year. After time, the bark is removed from the workpiece, so it dries for another week. The log is then sawn in half. It sits like that for another week, only after that you can start creating a crossbow. Tools for making a crossbow Knife. Saw. Plane. Sandpaper of different grits. Carpenter's cutter. Chisel. Drill. Making a bow On the workpiece, choose the side in which the annual rings of the tree are thinner.
This is the north side, the fibers on it are denser than in other parts. This is what we will use when creating a crossbow with our own hands at home. From this part you need to make a bow. Mark the middle, put about two centimeters on both sides of it, marking the part that will be clamped in the crossbow stock. This will be the thickest part of the onion. They begin to cut the material from it, gradually moving towards the edges. They chip the workpiece gradually on both sides, checking until it begins to bend at least a little. After this, you need to take a strong rope and make loops at its ends. This will be a test string. It is necessary to check the bow tension. It is very important that his shoulders bend evenly. By putting on an improvised bowstring and drawing the bow, you can see where to remove the material. They are marked and carefully cut with a knife. This must be continued until the product begins to bend evenly on both sides. Processing of knots Very often there are knots on the material: some are visible immediately, others can open during the processing of the material. What makes them dangerous is that they can cause chips. Therefore, you need to treat such places with a well-sharpened knife. If you don't have confidence or experience, it's better to tinker a little longer and sand them down with sandpaper.
You can also use a file for this purpose. Bed When the bow is ready, put it aside and begin making the stock. To begin with, they choose where there will be a groove through which the arrow will fly out, and make this place perfectly level. It will depend on him how accurately the crossbow will shoot. To understand everything, it is better to look at the drawing of the crossbow. How to make its stock is shown in detail here. After this, the gutter is cut to the required length. Usually it is about 30 cm. Then a recess is made for the bow and trigger mechanism. They are convenient to cut with a chisel and a carpenter's knife. Trigger As mentioned above, it can be made of dense wood or, if the crossbow is powerful, of metal. The simplest mechanism is the so-called “nut”. It consists of a cylinder, where on one side there is a hook for the bowstring, and on the other there is a stop for the trigger. In high-power crossbows, the trigger is more refined for an easier trigger pull when loaded. We looked in detail at how to make a crossbow with your own hands. A master class with drawings, we hope, will help you understand all the intricacies. This is a common medieval model. Now we’ll find out how to make the same weapon, only a modern model. Compound crossbow Such a device is much more difficult to make; it will require many more tools than a regular one. So, we create a crossbow with our own hands at home from fiberglass.
This material is ideal for making bows because it is tough and yet lightweight. It can be cut from a single piece of fiberglass 1 cm thick or you can make it yourself. If you’re not too lazy to tinker, it’s better to make it yourself. Making fiberglass shoulders for a crossbow You need to take fiberglass or Kevlar and cut it into strips. You need from 30 to 40 of them. In general, it is better to try everything experimentally. These strips are glued with epoxy resin so that everything becomes monolithic when it hardens. You also need to think about how to put this entire “sandwich” under the press. It is best to use boards, place the shoulders between them, and clamp everything with clamps. The epoxy adhesive should have less thickener than normal, ranging from 8 to 10%. Everything hardens within 24 hours, but if the room is cold, the time may increase. When everything has hardened, the shoulders are finalized by cutting off the protruding edges with a knife and sanding with sandpaper. Now we will look in detail at how to make a crossbow with your own hands at home and what additional elements of its design need to be made.
Making a figured stock To do this, you need to take a board at least 4 cm thick. Mark where the butt, handle, trigger mechanism and mounts for the arms of the bow will be. In general, everything is according to the drawings. After this, you need to drill all the necessary holes and cut them out. Blocks These can be made from aluminum. It would be better if they were on bearings. The middle parts of roller skate wheels are perfect. They are strong enough to withstand heavy loads and are the perfect size. The axles for them need to be 5 mm thick. You can take them from rollers or make them yourself. The fasteners are made of sheet steel or similar durable material. You can also make the ends of the bow arms thicker before pouring epoxy resin to install the blocks, in which case fastenings will not be needed. After this, you need to install a trigger mechanism with a trigger and an arrow holder on the crossbow you made yourself at home. In general, all parts are connected with bolts; washers are always used. They will allow you to twist everything more tightly without damaging the material. In compound crossbows, the bowstring is longer and is tensioned differently. It seems to cross, and when drawn, this system allows the arrow to give twice as much energy to flight as in the case of a conventional crossbow with the same bow. In powerful block models, the bowstring is a steel cable, only it is able to withstand enormous sharp pressure when fired. In crossbows whose power is no more than 40-50 kg, it can be woven from nylon threads.
Making a bowstring for a crossbow Using the described method, you can make a bowstring for both a recurve and a classic crossbow. It’s just that their length will be different due to the design features of both models. They take a board the length of the planned bowstring, drive in two pegs, onto which a nylon thread is wound in a circle. When the thickness of this long oval becomes 5 mm, it is wrapped, leaving a gap of 2-3 mm between the turns. Near the pegs you need to braid without gaps, because there will be loops for hooking. Regarding the bowstring, one can also say that if you make it too thick, the strength of the crossbow is reduced. However, thin ones can tear.
So in this case you need to choose an intermediate thickness. It is better to study similar sports models with the same tension and make a bowstring of their thickness. When this is done, the two halves are joined and wrapped together. Again, special care is needed near the hinges. Then they wrap the middle where the string will catch and push the arrow. This place is also done carefully, because it will be subject to a tremendous frictional force. All cut edges of the threads must be coated with glue. This will make them denser and more monolithic. This article presents drawings and a description of how to make a real crossbow at home. It's not that difficult, especially if you're making wooden weapons. If the product is manufactured for hunting in order to achieve enormous power, then you should choose a block model. Its design is a little more complicated; you may need a machine to make some parts.
