Stairs.  Entry group.  Materials.  Doors.  Locks.  Design

Stairs. Entry group. Materials. Doors. Locks. Design

» How to install a split system yourself? Installing a split system with your own hands: how to do it right. How to install a split system with your own hands Self-installation of a split system show

How to install a split system yourself? Installing a split system with your own hands: how to do it right. How to install a split system with your own hands Self-installation of a split system show

Installing an air conditioner yourself should begin with choosing a location for installation. In fact, everything is not easy. We must take into account:

So you will have to solve a complex problem, trying to satisfy all the requirements and recommendations. Only in this case will installing an air conditioner yourself be successful.

Let's start with the simplest thing: choosing a location from the point of view of ease of use. The indoor unit must be placed so that the cooled air spreads throughout the room, but does not fall directly on the bed, desk, or chair. In principle, you can redirect the flow using movable blinds, but it is much better to think about it from the beginning.

The most correct solution in this case is to place the air conditioner above the head of the bed, above or to the side of the table. In this case, the flow of cold air will “flow around” the place of rest or work, which is much more comfortable and less dangerous to health.

In addition, there are technical issues that must be considered before you begin installing the air conditioner yourself. The indoor unit is connected to the outdoor unit using a route from copper pipes and control cable. The outputs for connecting the route are on the right (if you look at the block from the front), but they can be bent so that they are on the left or bottom. These outlets are 30 cm long copper tubes.

Outputs from the outdoor unit of the split system (rear view)

A route is connected to them (by soldering or flaring), and the connection point must be accessible for maintenance. Therefore, this section of the route is not hidden in the wall (in the groove), but covered with a decorative box. In this case, the route can be positioned differently - depending on which wall it was hung on. indoor unit and where in relation to it is located outdoor unit.

Block to the left of the outer wall

If the indoor unit is to the left of the outer wall and the routes come out straight, minimum distance from wall to block - 500 mm (1 picture in the photo). It can be reduced to 100 mm if the route is wrapped onto an adjacent wall, but its total length should not be less than 500 mm. If this is not possible, you can remove the bends from the left and lay the pipes in the groove (picture on the right). IN in this case this is possible, since the connection point between the leads and the route is located under the housing cover, so that it is accessible for repair and maintenance.

If cables, pipes, etc. cannot be pulled along the outer walls of the building. (so as not to spoil appearance), the entire route will have to be laid indoors. A less expensive option is to place it in a corner, covering it with special boxes. This arrangement is convenient, since you can then close the box with curtains.

The second option is more labor-intensive (it’s more difficult to make a groove), but from an aesthetic point of view it’s more advantageous - transfer the output to the left side panel and put everything in the recess made.

On the wall to the right of the outside

This option can be called typical - it is standard solution when choosing such a location. Most often, the route in the box is led directly into the wall, but if necessary, it can be lowered in the corner (also covered with a box).

If necessary, it can be placed in a groove (the connection point is in the housing). If the route cannot be laid outside the building, it can be laid in a groove indoors. The route may look like two latest photos in the previous chapter.

Where to determine the outdoor unit

In fact, it is not the easiest task to choose a location for an outdoor unit. Not all buildings allow them to be placed on the walls. In this case, there are only two options: install the outdoor unit of the split system in a specially designated place - the air conditioner. If there is no such room, only a balcony or loggia remains. In such buildings they are usually glazed, so the placement of the block does not affect the appearance.

But in this case, it is necessary to provide a system for cooling the equipment and removing exhaust air. If the balcony is spacious enough, open the windows for ventilation or provide access for the entire time it is open fresh air in some other way. The solution is simple and straightforward, but it leads to overheating of the equipment, and this is fraught with breakdowns and frequent replacement of the damaged outdoor unit.

Installation on the balcony is sometimes the only way out

Installing fans for more active air exchange can improve the situation a little. It’s right to fence off a small room, make it effective ventilation, separate ventilation ducts for air removal and supply. Moreover, they must be separate. This is done using air ducts that lead out instead of part of the glazing. In general, in this case, installing an air conditioner with your own hands is a problematic task precisely in terms of ensuring normal operating conditions for the equipment.

On the balcony or loggia

If there are no prohibitions on placing foreign devices on the walls of the building, usually the outdoor unit of the air conditioner is hung on the balcony railing (on the side or front) or on the wall, but so that it can be reached for maintenance - wash, clean, check, repair.

If the balcony is glazed, there should be an opening window sash above it. Otherwise it will be very difficult to maintain it. To protect against precipitation and objects that may fall from the window, a canopy is placed above the block. The choice of materials is something similar to finishing a balcony or a white plastic canopy, but full-bodied. It is better not to use hollow and metal ones (including corrugated sheets and metal tiles), since during rain they turn into a drum, and during hail they can generally deafen.

If the block is placed on a loggia, of all the above options, only the one in the picture on the right remains. It is inconvenient to place it next to the wall, except perhaps under the window, but this already belongs to another section.

One more point: how to run the route - along the ceiling or along the floor? You will have to ditch in both cases, but in the case of the floor, it is possible that you will make it from boards, then the pipes and cables connecting the external and internal units can be laid on the surface, but better - in a box.

Under or next to the window

In those rooms where there is no balcony or loggia, the outer part of the split system is hung on the wall from the outside. It is more convenient if it is located under the window or to the side of it. Moreover, under or next to the opening part. In this case, service is possible without calling a climber.

When installing the outdoor air conditioner unit with your own hands on the wall next to the window, consider the height of its installation. You can position the top surface of the block flush with the top edge of the window. In this case, leaning out of the window and securing yourself, you can carry out work while standing on the windowsill. The second option is to align the lower edge flush with the lower edge of the window opening. Here you can lie on your stomach on the windowsill, but you won’t be able to reach the exit point of the pipes. That is, you will still have to call industrial climbers.

What is required to install an air conditioner yourself

For those who install and connect split systems professionally, the work takes, on average, three hours. The cost of this service is considerable, and it is explained by the need to use expensive equipment. Good devices really cost a lot, but many of them can be replaced with simpler ones or rented. The only thing that will be difficult to find is Vacuum pump. This is really expensive specialized equipment, but there is technology that allows you to do without it. This is exactly what some installers do, who simply do not have such equipment - they simply bleed off part of the freon, cleaning the pipes. This method can be used when installing a split system yourself.

Necessary equipment and what can replace it

What is necessary for a DIY air conditioner installation to be successful? First of all, you will need a certain set of tools. With their help, things will go faster. But if there are no special tools, they can be replaced with simpler devices. Working with them will take more time, but if you try, this will not affect the quality. So, what is needed to install a split system:

  • Powerful hammer drill. IN external wall house or building, it is necessary to make a through hole through which copper pipes and cables connecting the indoor and outdoor units are routed. Also, a drainage tube is removed through this hole to remove condensation and excess moisture when the humidity is normalized. A rotary hammer is not such a rarity; the only thing that can cause difficulties is selecting the right attachments. But this is a matter of technology.
  • Pipe cutter with a sharp blade. The split system blocks are connected to each other by copper pipes. They are sold in rolls, so you will have to cut them into pieces of the required length. If the pipe cutter blade is dull, the edges of the pipe will become wrinkled or jagged. This will have to be corrected with a file and a rimmer (a special device for removing burrs). The pipe cutter can be replaced with a hacksaw with a metal blade, and the edges can be leveled and burrs removed using a file (need file), finishing the edge smoothly sandpaper. Just when working, make sure that the hole being processed is directed downwards. This will prevent copper dust from getting inside the pipe (it can damage the inside of the air conditioner, so this is very important).
  • Pipe bender or spring. To give copper pipes the desired shape.
  • Drill with drills of different diameters. It is needed to make holes for the mounting plate of the indoor unit and corners for installing the outdoor one.
  • Flaring machine and calibrator for copper pipes. This device is, of course, specific, but it doesn’t cost much.
  • Wall chaser. When laying a route in a groove (a groove in the wall), this device significantly speeds up and simplifies the work. But you can get by with a regular chisel and hammer/sledgehammer.

Well, as they said before, a vacuum pump is needed to properly start the system. There is nothing to replace it with; the only possibility is to release part of the freon on routes up to 6 meters long (the “spray” method).

In addition, you will need screwdrivers, hex keys, a level, a hammer, and perhaps some other tools, but they are usually found around the house or are easy to find.

Materials and consumables

In addition to tools, to install an air conditioner yourself, you will need a certain amount of materials. You can't do without many of them.


As you can see, installing an air conditioner yourself requires serious preparation. Not only is it needed special tool, but also specific materials.

Installation of blocks

If you want to do everything right, installing an air conditioner yourself should begin with carefully studying the instructions. For the most part, they are similar, but allowances, requirements for cable cross-section, route length, etc. may vary. Another advantage of reading the manual is that you will know exactly in what order to perform the work. In general, here's what to do:


This is the first stage self-installation air conditioner is finished. Next we will build a route.

Connecting blocks

The external and internal blocks of the split system are connected by two copper tubes and a cable. A drainage tube is also brought out. All these communications can be laid from above along the wall, and then they are placed in a special box. The second option is in the groove and then you need to make a groove that will connect the two blocks. But first of all, you need to drill a hole in the wall. This is done after installing the fasteners for the blocks. And only after this, do-it-yourself air conditioning installation continues.


When placed in a plastic box, all communications are tied into one bundle. This can be done with zip ties, but more often they are wrapped with metallized tape to further reduce heat transfer from copper pipes.

Connecting copper pipes

We have already connected the cable earlier, and the installation of the air conditioner is completed with our own hands by connecting copper pipes and drainage. It's easier with drainage. There is an outlet at the bottom of the indoor unit, and that’s where we insert the hose or pipe. The junction can be further sealed using plumbing tape. You can also use silicone sealant for sealing.

Next we connect the copper tubes. We start in the indoor unit. There are two ports on the side wall - one with fittings of a larger diameter, the second - a smaller one. It doesn’t matter which one to start with. The procedure is as follows:


Actually, everything is already connected, but you still need to carry out a vacuum or simply remove moisture and air from the working parts of the air conditioner.

Vacuuming

Why carry out this procedure? During installation, air entered the system and also contained argon residues. This mixture must be removed, otherwise it will significantly reduce the operating life of the equipment. Naturally, it is better if you have special equipment. But, as a last resort, you can do without it.

If there is a vacuum pump

If you have a vacuum pump, everything is somewhat simpler. It usually comes with two pressure gauges (low and high pressure) they can be used to track the pressure drop in the system, that is, to identify leaks. The vacuum pump is connected to the output on the external block with a spool (filling port), and turns on for 15-20 minutes. During this time, it removes remaining air and nitrogen from the system.

After this time, the pump is turned off, but not disconnected, but left connected for another 20-30 minutes. All this time you need to monitor the readings of the pressure gauges. If they have changed, there is a leaky connection in the system. Most likely, this is the place where the copper pipes are connected and they need to be re-sealed. If the pressure gauge readings are stable, without turning off the pump, fully open the valve located below. Freon begins to leave the unit, filling the system (noise is heard). We put on gloves and quickly unscrew the vacuum pump hose (freon can damage the skin). After disconnecting the equipment, open the valve on the route at the top (outlets of smaller diameter). Now the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is completed. You can turn it on.

Without vacuum pump

With a route length of up to 5 meters, the installation of the air conditioner can be carried out without a vacuum pump. To clean the equipment you will have to release a certain amount of freon, but there is no other way. The procedure is as follows:


And in this case, do-it-yourself air conditioner installation is completed and the equipment is ready for use. But in this case, the tightness of the system has not been checked in any way and the freon can slowly evaporate, and there is still some amount of air and argon left in the system. In general, the solution is not ideal.

Compared to other air conditioning devices, the split system has a more complex two-block design. This system consists of an external compressor-condenser module and an internal evaporator module with a corresponding number of communications through which freon and electricity are supplied and condensate is discharged. This scheme complicates installation, but does not exclude self-installation. To install such an air conditioner yourself, just read the instructions, make up for the lack of knowledge and experience through Internet resources, and consult with specialists.

Installation features depend on the design of the indoor module, which can be wall-mounted or floor-mounted. To save space in small apartments they usually use wall mounted air conditioner. This split is somewhat more difficult to install due to the need for durable wall mounting. But regardless of the details, the work is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. installation of separate wiring;
  2. installation of an external condenser unit;
  3. fastening the evaporator (indoor unit);
  4. connection of communications with vacuum;
  5. test activation.

Tools

To install the split yourself you will need a tool. It is recommended to include in the set:

  • a drill with a hammer drill and a corresponding set of drills that is capable of breaking through a solid concrete wall;
  • pipe cutter for neatly cutting pipes without the threat of clogging with copper shavings;
  • a kit for flaring the edges of tubes, which will ensure the tightness of the connections;
  • an example that can be used to strip the ends of connections;
  • a pump, possibly a bicycle pump, to assess the tightness;
  • vacuum cleaner, to remove moisture from the system by vacuuming;
  • indicator screwdriver and tester for wiring;
  • pressure gauge for pressure control.

How to choose a place

Before installing split system modules, it is necessary to correctly determine their location. For external unit the place should:

  • protect the device from direct sunlight and exposure to dust;
  • guarantee the stability of the structure;
  • provide sufficient free space for normal operation of the device.

Here such a situation is excluded, and the necessary protection of the unit is provided by the visor. An additional advantage is ease of maintenance. When choosing a location for the compressor you need to:

  • provide protection from sun or heating;
  • eliminate the threat of ignition of various vapors and gas leaks;
  • provide the required free space and distance from the floor around the perimeter of the block as required by the instructions;
  • prevent interference from constantly operating electrical appliances (distance of at least a meter);
  • guarantee the strength of the wall, preventing the structure from collapsing.

Installation of separate wiring

A split system, even in its most low-power version, requires at least 1.5 kW. Such power requires a separate line, unloaded by other consumers, especially in houses earlier than 1990.

It requires:

  • two-core wire with a cross-section of 1.5 to 2 mm, always copper;
  • 16A circuit breaker.

If you plan to hide the wiring in a groove, then you should take care of this during the renovation so as not to spoil the expensive interior of the renovated apartment. When the idea to install a split came after a renovation, the solution may be to install additional wiring in the box. In any case, this will allow:

  • avoid overloads;
  • prevent device failure;
  • eliminate the possibility of fire as a result of a short circuit.

Installing an external condenser unit

The complexity of this stage depends on the location where you decide to place the air conditioner. Three options can be used:

  • on the open balcony;
  • on the loggia;
  • on the wall.

On the balcony, it is enough to install short brackets and place the module on them. The protection function will be performed by a standard balcony canopy.

When choosing a loggia, you can limit yourself to the same brackets, but you should remember that a closed space does not provide the necessary air circulation, which will damage the air conditioner.

Open doors will help avoid this, which reduces the value of the loggia especially in winter time. It is impossible to mount the module on the wall without reinforced brackets, which must confidently support a weight several times greater than the mass of the unit itself. To attach them, it is better to use long anchors with a diameter of 20 mm.

Mounting the evaporator and installing communications

Before installing it, you need to mark the mounting locations. Check them horizontally and vertically using a level. After this, the work is performed in the following order:

  1. Holes are drilled according to the markings and anchors are inserted.
  2. Fastened with screws mounting plate;
  3. In accordance with the position of the block, a hole is punched for communications (50 - 80 mm) with a slight slope outward for drainage.
  4. A waterproofing cup with a tube is mounted in the holes.
  5. a check is made to ensure that the wire is connected correctly to the terminals in accordance with the diagram.
  6. Tubes with thermal insulation made of flex and drainage are connected to the corresponding pipes.
  7. If it is necessary to lengthen the edges of the tubes with the nuts on, they are first flared.
  8. A compact bundle (route) is formed from tubes, drainage and wires using electrical tape, which is passed through the hole to the outside.
  9. The indoor unit is hung on a mounting plate.

Having completed the above work, you can install the external unit on the previously fixed brackets and lead the route to it. Excessive force should be avoided when bending the tubes to avoid deformation and wrinkles (the permissible bending radius is at least 100 mm). If the air conditioner hangs over the sidewalk, then you need to take care alternative options removal of condensate indoors.

Sealing and vacuuming

It is impossible to install a split correctly without sealing and vacuuming the communications. Sealing of connections is carried out using a soap solution and a conventional bicycle pump. The solution is applied to the connections and the tubes are pumped using a pump. When bubbles appear, carefully tighten the nuts by 1/8. The procedure is performed until the bubbling stops.

Then vacuuming is performed, which removes air, dust and remaining moisture. For this:

  • open several running ports;
  • connect the vacuum pump through the service port;
  • turn it on and wait for a pressure of 10 mmHg;
  • close the low pressure lever;
  • turn off the pump, return plugs to all open ports.

Testing

Before checking, fill the split with freon or refrigerant, depending on the requirements of the instructions, to the specified pressure. Testing is activated using a circuit breaker. At correct execution After installing the air conditioner, it will automatically enter test mode. Its result should be:

  • normal flow of cold air;
  • correct position of the blinds;
  • condensate drainage through drainage.

If all the signs are present, the split can be used every day. Otherwise, you will need to contact specialists. In this case, the warranty for the air conditioner will be lost.

So it is still not recommended to install such an air conditioner yourself. It’s better to immediately weigh your strengths and think about inviting a specialist.

When they mention the need to install an air conditioner, they usually mean installing a split system. It consists of two blocks. Indoor and outdoor. In addition to such a system, there are also monoblock air conditioners, the installation of which is not difficult. They are simply inserted into a pre-prepared hole in the wall or window. The cracks are filled polyurethane foam, the device connects to the network and starts working, cooling the room. Everything is very simple.

But installing an air conditioner, which consists of two blocks, is more complicated. And you can’t do without instructions. But such an installation does not require any special skill. You can easily do it yourself. And save some money on it. Depending on the city of residence, sometimes quite significant.

What kind of air conditioner do you have?

Need to start. Moreover, you need to choose very carefully. Here you need to take into account some parameters, such as:

  • the ability to install an external unit (or);
  • room volume in sq.m;
  • wall thickness;
  • presence or absence of thermal insulation.

After all, if you buy an air conditioner whose power is low, it will not be able to cool the room well. It will still be hot in there. If you install a high-power device, a lot of electricity will be consumed and the room will be cold. When choosing an air conditioner, it is best to take advice from a specialist or get advice in a store.

Required Tools

Here you go, household appliance purchased and brought to the installation site. To install it you will need the following tools and materials:

  • perforator, drill;
  • self-tapping screws and choppers;
  • building level;
  • screwdriver;
  • tool for cutting and flaring copper tubes.

Now we have to choose again. But this time there is a place to install blocks. There are rules here. The block inside the room must be installed so that the distance from the ceiling to it is at least 15 cm. And from the nearest wall - at least 30 cm. The block must not be installed above the head of the bed or above the dining table. Despite the fact that the air flow brings welcome coolness, it can also cause you to catch a cold.

The block must not be covered with a curtain. In this case, the air conditioner will not only work poorly, but will also quickly break down. The structure must be installed strictly horizontally. Not only aesthetics depend on this. After all, if the unit is installed even with a slight tilt, this will affect the quality of its operation, and therefore the durability of the air conditioner. In particular, the drainage of the device will not work well.

Installation of the indoor unit

The indoor unit is hung on a special bar. To mount it on the wall, you need to drill holes, hammer pins into them, and screw the strip with self-tapping screws. Before you need to try hanging and removing the block to know how to do it. Don't fiddle around for too long when the tubes are attached to it.

Mounting plate fastening for indoor unit

We check the horizontal position of the fastening by level

How to install an external air conditioner unit

Now you select a place to install the outdoor unit. In order to facilitate installation, it is mounted either under the window or to the right of it. The outdoor unit is mounted on special brackets. It should be taken into account that the device weighs from 25 to 65 kg. So you will need the help of a second person. In addition, people must insure each other when working outside the window.

Air conditioner installation instructions

From the indoor unit to the outdoor unit there should be a distance of no more than 6 meters and no less than 1.5. The optimal distance is 3 meters. Then it is very easy to blow out the pipeline, freeing it from air and moisture. At greater distance you will need to refuel the air conditioner and use a vacuum pump, and with less, the devices will transmit mutual vibration to each other, which is undesirable. But if the blocks are attached nearby, it is recommended to make a one and a half meter loop on the pipeline. The air conditioner works better with it.

Outdoor air conditioner unit under the window

First you need to punch a hole in the wall. It is needed in order to pass the air conditioner pipeline. The hole must be at least 5 cm in diameter. It is broken through with a puncher. It is possible that fragments of brick or concrete may fall outwards, so during this work you need to make sure that there are no people below. When punching a hole, you need to take into account that there should be a slight downward slope. If there is no slope, the drainage will not work.

Outdoor air conditioner unit on the wall between the windows

Ropes are passed through this hole to which the outdoor unit of the air conditioner will be tied. But first you need to install the brackets. A rope is passed through the hole to secure the person. One end of the rope is tied to the belt, and the other is tightly tied, for example, to water pipe. The assistant also insures the employee. Holes are drilled in the outer wall and the brackets are fastened with powerful anchor bolts, taking into account the large weight of the block.

Outdoor air conditioner unit on the balcony railing

After the brackets are secured, ropes are tied to the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, it is lowered onto the brackets and secured. The distance from the device to the wall should be at least 10 cm. It must be said that installing the external unit is the most labor-intensive part of the work.

If the apartment is on the ground floor, then this installation is easier to do. But to protect against hooligans, the block still needs to be placed as high as possible and covered with a grill. It is easy to install even when the apartment has an open balcony.

Attention! On glazed loggias The unit cannot be installed, as the air conditioner will not work well and will quickly become unusable.

Now you need to install the highway. You need to have a device for cutting and flaring copper tubes. If such a device exists, then no difficulties arise. The tubes are cut to the required length and the ends are flared. Then they are attached first to the indoor unit and then to the outdoor unit.

Photo: trunk for tubes and cables

The following are attached to the indoor unit: copper pipeline, drainage tube and power cable. Copper tubes are connected using nuts, the drainage tube is put on a plastic fitting. When connecting a cable, you need to remember where the wire of a certain color is connected. You need to connect it in the same way when connecting to the outdoor unit. To make the highway look beautiful on the wall, you need to use a decorative box. The box is attached to the wall before the main line is laid.

Mounting the external unit

After connecting the tubes and cable, the entire pipeline is wrapped with tape and passed through the hole in external wall. The ends of the tubes need to be covered with something to prevent debris from getting into them as they are passed through the hole. The main line is connected to the outdoor unit, only the drainage pipe remains hanging freely.

Now you need to bleed excess air from the pipeline to prepare the air conditioner for operation. To do this, simply open the valves on the copper tube connection ports for a second. In order to get to the valve, you need to unscrew the copper cap. The valve is opened for a second with a hex key. It is recommended to do this three times.

Wiring diagram

If the route is long, longer than three meters, then you need to use a vacuum pump, which is connected to the system, to purge it.

After completion of the work, the hole in the wall is filled with foam and puttied.

It is best to connect the air conditioner to the electrical network via a separate cable. The cable is connected to the electrical panel through an emergency shutdown device. Don't forget about grounding.

A properly installed air conditioner can operate for many years without requiring any preventive maintenance. Especially if it is good quality equipment.

The question of whether it is possible to install an air conditioner with your own hands worries the minds, first of all, of owners of brand new split systems who have already managed to get acquainted with installation prices climate control technology. Indeed, numerous air conditioning installation companies rate their services quite highly, citing the complexity of installation, the need to use expensive highly specialized equipment and the mandatory high qualifications of specialists. You can't argue with the last statement. Only new owners of air conditioners are still interested in the possibility of self-installation, firstly as the prospect of real savings on installation services (we are talking about a considerable amount), and secondly, as an opportunity to consolidate their own skills and learn something new. Is it possible to blame our man’s desire to get to the bottom of the issue in order to understand how to install an air conditioner on his own and do the installation himself, no worse than a real master? If aspiration is accompanied by the ability to realistically assess the level of one’s skills and capabilities, then it has no price! The information we have presented on how to properly install an air conditioner will help you realistically assess the amount of installation work and balance your skill level with the required one.

Before you start studying detailed instructions for installation, check out the list necessary equipment.

Required tools and equipment

  1. Hammer with drills.
  2. Electric drill.
  3. Vacuum pump.
  4. Pipe cutter
  5. Rolling.
  6. Reamer (beveler).
  7. Level.
  8. Torque wrench.
  9. Gauge manifold.

Using a vacuum pump, remove moisture and air from the system

Locksmith tool for installing air conditioners it will also be useful (pliers, screwdrivers, hammer, etc.)

Choosing a place for installation

When choosing an installation location for both indoor and outdoor units, consider following points: it is important to consider the possibility of free access to the device (for ongoing work on cleaning and replacing filters).

Also take into account the feasibility of the shortest communication between the indoor and outdoor units (the point is not so much the economic benefit of using less Supplies, how much in reducing the efficiency of the entire system with increasing the length of interblock communications). Do not place the indoor unit above a cabinet or tall furniture (obstructing the flow of cooled air will cause the unit to operate less efficiently). For the same reason, maintain a minimum distance from the ceiling and walls (15 cm). Coordinating the installation of the air conditioner with your neighbors is also very desirable, in order to avoid misunderstandings in the future. The installation of an external unit does not create any particular problems for residents of neighboring apartments, but it is very likely that someone may not like the noise of a running fan or dripping condensation. And the last point, the most obvious, is that the flow of cold air should not create discomfort for people in the room, so take into account the direction of the air flow during installation. Once the locations of the blocks have been determined, we proceed to installation work.

  • installation of the indoor unit;
  • mounting the outdoor unit;
  • drilling a channel in the wall;
  • laying and connecting connecting communications;
  • vacuumization of the circuit;
  • connecting the air conditioner to the electrical network;
  • system startup.

Correctly installing the indoor unit

The internal unit of the split system is mounted on a special plate supplied with the device. To ensure reliable operation of the unit and prevent condensation from leaking out of it later, it is very important to secure the plate level. Therefore, to determine a strict horizontal line when marking, you must use a level. In the marked places, dowels are driven into holes pre-drilled with a hammer drill. Then, using self-tapping screws screwed into dowels, we attach the mounting plate and install the indoor unit on it.

A mounting plate is attached to the installation location of the indoor unit

Installing the outdoor unit

The outdoor unit is placed on pre-installed brackets on the outside of the building, usually under or to the side of a window for ease of maintenance. For effective airflow, the distance from the block to the wall must be at least 10cm. If it is not possible to secure the brackets from the window, then to carry out the work you will need to rent an aerial platform or use the services of climbers.

Interblock communications - how to do it?

A hole in the wall for the passage of communications is drilled using a hammer drill with a drill with a diameter of 4-5 cm. If the interblock route includes a drainage pipe for condensate removal, then the channel must be made with a slope (5-10 degrees towards the street). It is advisable to hide the section of the route from the indoor unit to the point where it enters the wall in the wall. When gating, a lot of dust is generated, so if renovations have already been made in the room, then it is better to lay the route outside, subsequently covering it with a decorative box.

Interblock communications can be hidden in a decorative plastic casing

The inter-unit communication route includes copper freon pipes, power supply and equipment control wires, as well as a drainage pipeline (according to the rules, condensate from the indoor unit must be drained into the sewer system, but many simply drain it outside). The required length of wiring and piping is determined by measuring total length tracks (plus a small margin of 30-50 cm).

To cut copper pipes, you must use a pipe cutter, not a grinder or a hacksaw, to avoid the formation of sawdust, which can subsequently lead to breakdown of the air conditioner. Before installation, the pipelines are placed in a heat-insulating shell; to prevent debris from entering, the pipeline openings are closed. plastic stoppers. All components of the route are laid together, rewound with vinyl tape, after which the route is installed in place.

After laying the interblock communications, they begin to connect the wires and the freon line. The installation instructions for the air conditioner must contain a wiring diagram that must be followed during operation.

The length of the tubes is adjusted (cut off right size), then you need to remove the burrs (remove the chamfer using a reamer). After threading the nut, each edge of the tubes is flared by rolling. Then the edges are connected to the fittings of the indoor and outdoor units, tightening the nuts with a torque wrench (the connections must be absolutely tight).

After checking the tightness, air is removed from the line using a vacuum pump; a manometric manifold makes it possible to control the pressure

Having finished connecting the route, check the tightness of the line and “vacuum” it (remove moisture and air) using a vacuum pump. To do this, a vacuum pump is connected to the service port of the outdoor unit through a manometric manifold, which, by pumping air out of the system, creates a vacuum in it. This process lasts about 20 minutes (depending on the volume of the circuit). After turning off the pump, observe the change in pressure for half an hour; if the pressure gauge needle does not deviate, then the system is sealed. Only after a thorough check of the tightness is it possible to open the taps of the outdoor unit and fill the circuit with freon. Attention, a freon leak can cause a compressor breakdown, but it is more important harmful effects freon on human body.

So, the system is assembled and filled with refrigerant, all that remains is to connect the air conditioner to the electrical network and check its operation. The connection diagram for the air conditioner is simple; in most household split systems, the power supply is connected to the indoor unit; to do this, you just need to connect an outlet to it.

Now you have general idea on how to install an air conditioner with your own hands. We were talking about installing a split system as the most efficient type of household air conditioners. The video instructions below will help you figure out how to install an air conditioner.

Installation mobile air conditioner does not require the intervention of highly qualified specialists: you just need to place the device within 2m from the window (to remove hot air), and then connect it to the network.

Installation tips. Where is the best place to install an air conditioner?

Before buying a split system in Krasnodar, it is advisable to determine the place where you will hang it.

It is technically possible to install an air conditioner in a room absolutely anywhere, however, for its high-quality operation, without the risk of failure, there are certain rules and some nuances that must be observed during installation.

In this article we will try to describe in as much detail as possible the most common mistakes during the installation process, as well as give recommendations on how to correct installation air conditioner in order to avoid unforeseen problems in the future.

1. Install the indoor unit of the split system at a distance from the ceiling of at least 10 cm. Since the air conditioner takes air for cooling/heating from the room (not from the street), the small distance from the ceiling to the top of it (where the air intake grille is located) can make it difficult to recirculate air. In this case, firstly, the air conditioner will not be able to produce a sufficient amount of cold/heat, and secondly, it will wear out, which will lead to rapid failure of its compressor. That is why it is forbidden to place various objects on the air conditioner and cover it. top part. If you are installing an air conditioner at the renovation stage, take into account the possible lowering of the ceiling level (tension, gypsum ceilings and so on.).

2. Do not install the indoor unit of the split system above cabinets, shelves, or chests of drawers if the distance from them to the lower edge of the indoor unit is less than 70-100 cm. Firstly, this leads to the dust accumulated on the top surface of the cabinet being blown away every time the air conditioner is turned on. Moreover, close proximity of horizontal surfaces leads to the creation of an air flow circulation, which leads to a decrease in the efficiency of the air conditioning system. The flow from the air conditioner is carried back into the air intake, the air exchange in the room deteriorates, the air conditioner, taking in cold air, begins to “think” that it is time to stop working, because the temperature sensor is located at the inlet of the flow.

3. The air flow should not be directed directly at people. When operating in cold conditions, the temperature of the air stream from the air conditioner is 7-15°C lower than the ambient air temperature in the room. If such a stream blows on a person for at least several tens of minutes, poor health is guaranteed subsequently. Typically, air is directed so that it passes between work areas or where people are least likely to be. In the bedroom, you often have to make a choice on which wall in relation to the bed to hang the air conditioner. Most often, people are afraid to place the indoor unit above their head and mount the unit on the wall towards which their feet are facing. If it is not possible to remove the unit as far as possible from the bed and direct the air in the other direction, it is better to mount it above your head. Cold air in this case it will blow not on the head, but on the legs, which are usually covered with a blanket.

4. Do not install the indoor unit of the air conditioner above a heat source (for example, above a radiator). Because of the flow warm air, rising upward from the heat source, the air conditioner will think that it is not cooling the room enough and will work for wear, as a result of which it will quickly fail. In addition, excessive heat may cause the plastic casing of the indoor unit to become deformed.

5. Do not install the air conditioner where air circulation will be difficult (for example, behind curtains, etc.). The distance to the obstacle should not be less than 3 meters. The cooled (or heated) air flow from the air conditioner will be reflected from the obstacle and will return back at the same temperature with which it “came out”. The air conditioner will decide that the work has been done, the desired climate has been set and will turn off.

6. The indoor unit of the split system must be installed strictly at level. This is necessary so that the moisture condensed on the heat exchanger can be easily removed outside through the drainage system. If the indoor unit is installed with a significant distortion (±3-4 mm is allowed), there is a possibility that water will accumulate in the drain pan and periodically flow out of it directly onto your floor.

7. It is not recommended to install air conditioning in rooms where high-frequency devices are constantly operating. electromagnetic vibrations (for example, drill, drilling machine). High-frequency vibrations can knock down the chip (processor) installed inside the air conditioner.

8. Try to install the indoor unit so that the length of the freon pipe is minimal. Firstly, a long route increases the cost of installation, and secondly, it reduces work efficiency. Moreover, if you decide to lay the route in a box, then a long box across the entire wall will greatly spoil the interior.

9. If possible, connect a separate power cable to the air conditioner. For any air conditioner, even a low-power one, it is necessary to install separate electrical wiring and install a separate circuit breaker in the electrical panel. Because old wiring may not withstand the load and may catch fire. Be especially vigilant if your home is older than 1990. In older houses, the wiring is not designed to withstand the loads caused by the use of powerful electrical equipment.

1. Do not install the outdoor unit on glassed balcony or loggias, since heat removal will be very difficult. Installation is only possible if the windows can be opened wide. In this case, it is necessary to pay attention to the operating temperature range of the outside air. The upper temperature limit for different air conditioners is not the same and ranges from 40 to 46 C.

2. The outdoor unit should not cause inconvenience to your neighbors(noise, dripping condensation).

3. Try to place the outdoor unit in such a way that Sun rays hit him as little as possible. Direct rays of the sun can trigger a protective shutdown of the device due to overheating.

4. Position the outdoor unit in such a way that during operation, the heat removed from the room is freely discharged into the environment (for example, do not install the outdoor unit where the prevailing wind is directed towards the air conditioner, as the fan will not operate normally).

5. Do not place the outdoor unit in close proximity to trees. Foliage and fluff from poplars clog the heat exchanger, and during gusts of wind, branches can get into the equipment and damage the fan or heat exchanger fins. If, after all, your house is completely surrounded by greenery, then you need to cut down some of the branches located next to the air conditioner.

6. It is prohibited to install outdoor units on the ground and in places where they may be dirty with dirt, covered with snow, flooded with rain or waste water. The blocks must be installed on a special stand.

7. It is prohibited to install outdoor units in places where there is a possibility of leakage of explosive gases. In particular, this applies to the air conditioning of the first and second floors, where they usually take place. gas pipes gasified buildings.

8. When placing the external unit on the ground floor, install it in a special protective grille. This will prevent theft and acts of vandalism.

9. Take care of condensate drainage. Most often, condensate is discharged to the street. In this case, the flowing water should not fall on the wall of the building. Discharging condensate into the sewer is preferable, but expensive. If you plan to install the block above the sidewalk, then this is the only acceptable option.

10. Do not install the outdoor unit on an unstable foundation., for example on a wall made of hollow brick or thin metal. Fragility supporting structure almost always causes excess noise, which takes a lot of effort and money to eliminate. And the air conditioner may simply fall.

If you need high-quality installation (installation) of split systems in Krasnodar, the company’s specialists will help you with this website