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The purpose of this article is to tell you how to make a gas burner with your own hands. Gas burners in small businesses, individual technical creativity and in everyday life are used very widely for soldering, metalsmithing, forging, roofing, jewelry work, for starting gas heating devices and producing flames with temperatures above 1500 degrees for various needs.
In the technological aspect, a gas flame is good because it has a high reducing ability (cleanses the metal surface of contaminants and restores its oxide into pure metal), without exhibiting any noticeably different chemical activity.
In heat engineering – gas is a highly energy-intensive, relatively inexpensive and clean fuel; 1 GJ of gas heat is, as a rule, cheaper than from any other energy carrier, and coking of gas heating devices and soot deposition in them is minimal or absent.
But at the same time, let us repeat the common truth: they don’t joke with gas. A gas burner is not so complicated, but how to achieve its efficiency and safety - this will be discussed further. With examples of correct technical execution and recommendations for making it yourself.
We make exclusively a gas burner using propane, butane or a propane-butane mixture with our own hands, those. on gaseous saturated hydrocarbons and atmospheric air. When using 100% isobutane (see below), it is possible to achieve flame temperatures of up to 2000 degrees.
Acetylene allows you to get a flame temperature of up to 3000 degrees, but due to its danger, the high cost of calcium carbide and the need for pure oxygen as an oxidizing agent, it has practically fallen out of use in welding work. It is possible to obtain pure hydrogen at home; a hydrogen flame from a supercharged burner (see below) gives temperatures up to 2500 degrees. But the raw materials for producing hydrogen are expensive and unsafe (one of the components is a strong acid), but the main thing is that hydrogen cannot be smelled or tasted, there is no point in adding a mercaptan fragrance to it, because Hydrogen spreads an order of magnitude faster, and its admixture with air of only 4% already produces an explosive explosive gas, and its ignition can occur simply in the light.
Methane not used in household gas burners for similar reasons; in addition, it is highly poisonous. As for flammable liquid vapors, pyrolysis gases and biogas, when burned in gas burners they produce a not very clean flame with a temperature below 1100 degrees. Flammable liquids of medium and below average volatility (from gasoline to fuel oil) are burned in special liquid burners, for example, in burners for diesel fuel; alcohols are used in low-power flame devices, and ethers do not burn at all - they have low energy, but are very dangerous.
To make a gas burner safe to operate and not waste fuel, the golden rule should be: no scaling or any changes to the prototype drawings at all!
Here the matter is in the so-called. Reynolds number Re, showing the relationship between flow speed, density, viscosity of the flowing medium and the characteristic size of the region in which it moves, for example. cross-sectional diameter of the pipe. From Re one can judge the presence of turbulence in the flow and its nature. If, for example, the pipe is not round and both of its characteristic sizes are greater than a certain critical value, then vortices of the 2nd and higher orders will appear. There may not be physically distinguished “pipe” walls, for example, in sea currents, but many of their “tricks” are explained precisely by the transition of Re through critical values.
Note: just in case, for reference, for gases the value of the Reynolds number at which laminar flow becomes turbulent is Re>2000 (in the SI system).
Not all homemade gas burners are accurately calculated according to the laws of gas dynamics. But, if you arbitrarily change the dimensions of the parts of a successful design, then the Re of fuel or sucked air may jump beyond the limits that it adhered to in the author’s product, and the burner will become, at best, smoky and voracious, and, quite possibly, dangerous.
The determining parameter for the quality of a gas burner is the cross-sectional diameter of its fuel injector (gas nozzle, nozzle, nozzle - synonyms). For propane-butane burners at normal temperatures (1000-1300 degrees), it can be approximately taken as follows:
In high-temperature burners, the injectors are made narrower, 0.06-0.15 mm. An excellent material for the injector would be a piece of needle for a medical syringe or dropper; from them you can select a nozzle for any of the indicated diameters. Needles for inflating balls are worse; they are not heat resistant. They are used more like air ducts in supercharged microburners, see below. It is sealed into the injector cage (capsule) with hard solder or glued with heat-resistant glue (cold welding).
Under no circumstances should you make a gas burner with a power exceeding 10 kW. Why? Let's say the burner efficiency is 95%; for an amateur design this is a very good indicator. If the burner power is 1 kW, then it will take 50 W to self-heat the burner. A 50 W soldering iron can get burned, but it does not threaten an accident. But if you make a 20 kW burner, then 1 kW will be superfluous; this is an iron or electric stove left unattended. The danger is aggravated by the fact that its manifestation, like Reynolds numbers, is threshold - either simply hot, or flares up, melts, explodes. Therefore, it is better not to look for drawings of a homemade burner for more than 7-8 kW.
Note: industrial gas burners are produced with a power of up to many MW, but this is achieved by precise profiling of the gas barrel, which is impossible at home; see one example below.
The third factor that determines the safety of the burner is the composition of its fittings and the procedure for using it. In general the scheme is as follows:
Low-power gas burners for everyday life and small private production are classified according to performance indicators as follows. way:
Regarding the method of burning fuel, a gas burner can be made according to one of the following. schemes:
In free-atmospheric burners, gas burns in free space; air flow is ensured by free convection. Such burners are uneconomical; the flame is red, smoky, dancing and beating. They are of interest, firstly, because with an excess supply of gas or insufficient air, any other burner can be switched to free-atmospheric mode. It is here that the burners are ignited - at a minimum fuel supply and even less air flow. Secondly, the free flow of secondary air can be very useful in the so-called. one-and-a-half-circuit burners for heating, because greatly simplifies their design without sacrificing safety, see below.
In ejection burners, at least 40% of the air required for fuel combustion is sucked in by the gas flow from the injector. Ejection burners are structurally simple and make it possible to obtain a flame with a temperature of up to 1500 degrees with an efficiency of over 95%, therefore they are used most widely, but cannot be made modulated, see below. According to the use of air, ejection burners are divided into:
In pressurized burners, all air, both primary and secondary, is forced into the fuel combustion zone. The simplest supercharged microburner for benchtop soldering, jewelry and glass work can be made independently (see below), but the manufacture of a supercharged heating burner requires a solid production base. But it is the supercharged burners that allow you to realize all the possibilities of controlling the combustion mode; according to the terms of use they are divided into:
In single-mode burners, the fuel combustion mode is either determined once and for all by design (for example, in industrial burners for annealing furnaces), or is set manually, for which the burner must either be extinguished or the technological cycle with its use must be interrupted. Dual-mode burners usually operate at full or half power. The transition from mode to mode is carried out during work or use. Heating (winter - spring/autumn) or roofing burners are made with two modes.
In modulating burners, the supply of fuel and air is smoothly and continuously regulated by automation, working according to a set of critical initial parameters. For example, for a heating burner - according to the ratio of temperatures in the room, outside and coolant in the return. There can be one output parameter (minimum gas flow, highest flame temperature) or there can also be several of them, for example, when the flame temperature is at the upper limit, fuel consumption is minimized, and when it drops, the temperature for a given technical process is optimized.
Understanding the designs of gas burners, we will take the path of increasing power, this will allow us to better understand the material. And from the very beginning we will get acquainted with such an important circumstance as supercharging.
It is well known how a single-mode mini gas burner for tabletop operation, powered by a lighter refill can, works: these are 2 needles inserted into each other, pos. And in the figure:
Pressurization - from an aquarium compressor. Since without the resistance of the sprayer under water it gives a noticeably pulsating flow, you need a receiver made of 5 liters of eggplant. Soda is not produced in these, so the receiver plug will need to be additionally sealed with raw rubber, silicone or just plasticine. If you take a compressor for an aquarium with a capacity of 600 liters or more, and the fuel is 100% isobutane (such cans are more expensive than regular ones), you can get a flame of over 1500 degrees.
The stumbling blocks when repeating this design are, firstly, adjusting the gas supply. There are no problems with air - its supply is set by the standard compressor regulator. But adjusting the gas by bending the hose is very rough, and the regulator from the dropper quickly breaks down, since it is also disposable. Secondly, pairing the burner with the can - in order for its valve to open, you need to press on the filling fitting
The first thing that will help solve the problem is the node shown in pos. B; they make it from the same pair of needles. First, you need to select a piece of tube for the sleeve that fits onto the canister fitting with a little effort, and then, also with a little effort, push it into the needle cannula; it may need to be drilled out a bit. But the sleeve should not hang either on the fitting or in the cannula separately.
Then we make a clip for the canister with an adjusting screw (pos. B), insert the canister, put the regulator on the fitting according to pos. B, and tighten the screw until the required gas supply is obtained. The adjustment is very precise, literally microscopic.
The easiest way to make a soldering torch is approx. by 0.5-1 kW, if you have any gas valve available: oxygen series VK, from an old autogen (the acetylene barrel is plugged), etc. One of the design options for a soldering torch based on a gas valve is shown in Fig.
Its peculiarity is the minimum number of turned parts, and even those can be selected ready-made, and quite wide possibilities for adjusting the flame by moving the nozzle 11. The material of parts 7-12 is quite heat-resistant steel; in this case, the relatively inexpensive St45 is suitable, because the flame temperature, due to the complete lack of profiling of the gas channel and ejector windows (which do not exist as such), will not exceed 800-900 degrees. Also, due to the fact that this burner is single-circuit, it is quite voracious.
A double-circuit gas burner for soldering is much more economical and allows you to get a flame of up to 1200-1300 degrees. Examples of structures of this kind powered by a 5 liter cylinder are shown in Fig.
Burner on the left – output approx. 1 kW, therefore it consists of only 3 parts, not counting the gas barrel and handle, so a separate valve for adjusting the flame is not required. If desired, you can make replaceable injector capsules for lower powers; Fuel consumption at low power will drop quite noticeably. The simplicity of the design in this case is achieved through the use of a scheme with incomplete separation of the air circuits: all the air is sucked in through the holes in the housing, but part of it is carried away by the burning gas jet through a hole with a diameter of 12 mm into the afterburner.
Incomplete separation of the air circuits does not allow reaching a power of more than 1.2-1.3 kW: Re in the combustion chamber jumps “above the roof”, which is why combustion begins with pops until it explodes, if you try to adjust the flame by applying gas. Therefore, without experience, it is better to set the injector in this burner to 0.3-0.4 mm.
A burner with complete separation of air circuits, the drawings of which are given on the right in the figure, develops power up to several kW. Therefore, its fittings require, in addition to the shut-off valve on the cylinder, a control valve. Together with a sliding primary ejector, it allows one to regulate the flame temperature within a fairly wide range, maintaining its minimum flow rate at a given power. In practice, having set the flame to the desired strength with the valve, move the primary ejector until a narrow blue jet (very hot) or a wide yellowish one (not so hot) comes out.
The dual-circuit burner with complete separation of circuits is also suitable for forging work. For example, how to build a forge for the one just described in 10-15 minutes from scrap materials, see the video:
A metalsmith's and forge's gas burner specifically for the forge can also be built according to a complete dual-circuit scheme, see next. video clip.
And finally, a mini gas burner can also heat a small tabletop forge; how to make them together yourself, see:
Here in Fig. Drawings of a gas burner with a built-in control valve for particularly precise and critical work are given. Its feature is a massive combustion chamber with cooling fins. Thanks to this, firstly, thermal deformation of burner parts is reduced. Secondly, random surges in gas and air supply have virtually no effect on the temperature in the combustion chamber. As a result, the installed flame remains very stable for a long time.
Finally, let's consider a burner designed to produce a flame of the highest possible temperature - using 100% isobutane without pressurization, this burner produces a flame with a temperature of more than 1500 degrees - it cuts sheet steel, melts any jewelry alloys in a mini-crucible and softens any silicate glass, except quartz. A good injector for this burner is made from a needle from an insulin syringe.
If you are planning to once and for all transfer your old stove or boiler from wood-coal to gas, then you have no choice but to purchase a modulated pressurized burner, pos. 1 in Fig. Otherwise, any savings on homemade products will soon be eaten up by excessive fuel consumption.
In the case when heating requires a power of more than 12-15 kW and in addition there is a person ready and able to take on the duties of a stoker, regulating the gas supply in accordance with the outside temperature, a cheaper option would be a double-circuit atmospheric burner for the boiler, the design diagram of which is given in pos. . 2. The so-called. Saratov burners, pos. 3; They are produced in a wide range of capacities and have been successfully used in heating engineering for a long time.
If you need to stay on gas for some time, for example, until the end of the heating season, and then start reconstructing the heating system, or run, for example, a country or sauna stove on gas, then for this you can make a one-and-a-half-circuit gas burner with your own hands for ovens. A diagram of its structure and operation is given in pos. 4. An indispensable condition is that the furnace of the heating device must have a blower: if secondary air is allowed into the gap between the throat of the furnace and the burner body, fuel consumption will increase significantly. A drawing of a one-and-a-half-circuit gas burner for a furnace with a power of up to 10-12 kW is given in pos. 5; The oblong openings for primary air intake must be located outside!
A gas burner for roofing work with modern built-up materials (roofing lamp) must be dual-mode: at half power the underlying surface is heated, and at full power the coating is fused after unrolling the roll. Delay is unacceptable here, so you cannot waste time readjusting the burner (which is only possible after it has cooled down).
The structure of an industrial roofing gas burner is shown on the left in Fig. It is dual-circuit with incomplete separation of circuits. In this case, such a solution is acceptable, because The burner operates at full power for approx. 20% of the process cycle time and is operated outdoors by trained personnel.
The most complex component of a roofing lamp, which is unlikely to be repeated at home, is the power switching valve. However, it is possible to do without it at the cost of a slight increase in fuel consumption. If you are a generalist and do roofing work occasionally, then the decrease in profitability due to this will not be noticeable.
Technically, this solution can be implemented in a burner with connected pairs of air circuits, see on the right in Fig. The transition from mode to mode is carried out either by installing/removing the housing of the internal circuits, or simply by moving the lamp in height, because The operating mode of such a burner strongly depends on the exhaust back pressure. To warm up the underlying surface, the lamp is moved away from it, then a powerful wide stream of not excessively hot gases will come out of the nozzle. And for surfacing, the lamp is brought closer: a wide “pancake” of flame will spread across the roofing material.
This article discusses only a few examples of gas burners. The total number of their designs only for the “home” power range up to 15-20 kW amounts to hundreds, if not thousands. But let’s hope that some of the ones described here will also be useful to you.
A gas burner is a special device that ensures uniform combustion of gas and allows you to regulate the fuel supply. Often, not every person can afford such a device, but a do-it-yourself gas burner, made from scrap materials, will be an economical and practical alternative to factory-made analogues.
The main components in the manufacture of powerful gas burners are industrial valves. They may be new, but for a homemade device it is enough to use used ones if there is no gas leak. They are designed to work in tandem with a 50-liter propane gas cylinder, which has an angle valve and a reducer.
The structure of this burner is shown in Fig. 1. The oxygen cylinder valve VK-74 is used as a basis. A fitting-handle machined on a lathe is installed at the outlet end, to the corrugated part of which the hose from the cylinder is connected. A cap with a prepared hole with a thread for the nozzle is screwed onto the part of the valve with a conical thread K3/4˝, with which it was connected to the gas cylinder. You can use a ready-made blowtorch or gas stove.
The nozzle is made from a piece of 1/4˝ steel pipe 100 mm long and welded to the cap on two pieces of ∅5 mm wire. A distance of 15 mm should be left between the cap and the nozzle to allow air to enter the combustion zone. The position of the nozzle is adjusted by bending the wire holders to achieve a central flame position.
Sequence of actions to ignite the burner:
By the way! The highest flame temperature is at the end of the green-blue part of the torch.
A homemade gas burner of this design has one drawback associated with the location of the valve. The gas flow is directed in the opposite direction to the normal position. Stuffing box seals experience constant gas pressure (including when the valve is closed), so it is necessary to constantly monitor the tightness of the seals.
Attention! Valve VK-74 should be used only when adjusting the flame. Stop the gas supply only at the cylinder
If you have an acetylene torch with a faulty oxygen supply valve, do not rush to throw it away. It is also suitable for making a burner (Fig. 2). 
The mixing chamber requires modifications, the contents of which must be removed to reduce weight. The oxygen barrel and valve will need to be removed. Solder the resulting hole with hard solder. Connect the hose coming from the gas cylinder reducer to a fitting with a left-hand thread M16 × 1.5.
Using a union nut, secure a homemade tip bent at 45° to the mixing chamber to make it more convenient to work with the burner. Screw a flange with a nozzle welded to it onto the thread of the tip.
One of the options for such a burner is to use a cap with an M22 × 1.5 thread. The design of the nozzle here is similar to the nozzle of the burner described above. The homemade gas burner is ready for use.
Mini gas burners are more suitable for working with small parts. The mini burner is based on a needle for inflating balls. It is necessary to make a cut in it, a little further than the middle of the needle. Some needles already have a similar hole, which significantly speeds up the work process. Next, you need to take the syringe needle and bend it about 45 degrees in the middle.
Mini gas burner design
It is best to sharpen the pointed end of a syringe needle so that it is straight. After this, it needs to be inserted into the ball needle so that one end comes out through the hole, and the other protrudes from the large needle by several mm. The resulting mini structure should be fixed using soldering. After this, droppers must be attached to the bases of the two needles. Clamps - dropper regulators need to be moved as close to the needles as possible. In the resulting burner they will act as gas and air supply regulators. They also need to be fastened together, and this is best done using a heat gun. All that remains is to connect a source of compressed gas to the finished device, the burner is ready for use. This homemade gas burner can heat objects up to 1000 degrees. You should work with it carefully, observing safety precautions.
Using homemade gas burners may give you the idea of creating your own infrared heater. Such heaters are designed to heat houses or garages in the face of ever-increasing gas prices. The easiest way to retain heat is to use ordinary food foil. It must be mounted on the wall behind the battery. Heat flows will be reflected from the aluminum surface into the room, which will not allow heat to escape through the walls.
In a more complex version, you can use a spiral. To do this, you need to purchase an incandescent coil and an infrared port in the store. Making such a device is quite simple: the spiral needs to be placed in a metal block, which is connected to the electrical network. An infrared port is attached to the resulting structure. This device works based on the ability of the port to distribute thermal information received from the hot coil into the room.
For garages or other small non-residential premises, a heater made from a small tin box and graphite sand is best suited. Such a device is quite compact, it does not require much space, and at the same time copes well with the tasks assigned to it. Before starting work, the container must be thoroughly rinsed and dried. It can be of any diameter and size; it is important that it fully matches your ideas about what the future heater should be like. 
Graphite must be mixed with fine sand in a one-to-one ratio and fill the box halfway. From a sheet of tin you need to cut a circle with a diameter suitable for the iron container, and attach the lead wire to its edges. This structure must be laid on a mixture of sand and granite, and then covered with the remaining mixture. Next, the container must be tightly closed with a lid to artificially create pressure inside it. The second wire of the container body is connected to the car battery.
You can regulate the heating temperature of such a device using the lid. When screwed tighter, the temperature of the tin box will be higher. If it is less, it will lose heat. It is important not to let such a heater overheat. In such cases, the box will begin to glow red or orange. When overheated, the sand sinteres, which leads to a loss of efficiency of the homemade gas burner. To restore it, shake the inside of the device.
A gas infrared heater is more expensive in terms of materials, as it requires the purchase of a small 
infrared ceramic heating pad. It is best not to buy a large device, since it will be “powered” by a small propane cylinder with a volume of 1 liter. In addition, a burner is required - a nozzle with a special tap. First of all, you need to get rid of all the burner nozzles, leaving only the pipe and tap. A hose is put on the pipe, which should be a little more than half a meter long. The gas cylinder is connected to this device. It is very important that it is in a vertical position, since the gas moves upward and not horizontally. This heater operates for two hours on a regular 200-gram cylinder.
Fishermen often use a similar device when winter fishing in a tent. A supply of gas cylinders allows you to comfortably spend the night on the ice. In addition, this design is safe, there is no open flame that can cause harm. Ceramic tiles only need 10 minutes to fully warm up, after which they begin to actively radiate heat, heating the air around them.
How to make a gas burner with your own hands? Or a heater? Very simple! The main thing is to know the internal structure of these devices in order to have an idea of its operation. After this, making a homemade structure will not be difficult. The main thing is not to forget about observing safety precautions when working with open fire or its sources.
A closed gas forge with your own hands is the most common technical solution for a small forge in the household. The presence of a main gas pipeline is not uncommon in modern houses, and the ease of regulating the parameters of the propane mixture, combined with the high calorific value of the gas, determines the appropriate efficiency of heating the metal for forging.
The key element of a gas furnace is the correct selection (and sometimes manufacturing) of a fuel-burning device - a burner.
The choice of the optimal design of the forge burner is related to the issues of the amount of metal waste during heating for forging, the intensity of surface scaling, as well as the total gas consumption. Closed-type furnaces require short-flame burners that provide rapid and intense mixing of the combustible mixture. It is then that the efficiency will be maximum, and the removal of combustion products from the working chamber of the forge will be uniform and efficient.
Thus, the gas burner must provide:
Gas burner drawings
On some websites there are recommendations for making a burner body by rolling a tubular blank. But at high jet pressures, plastic hardening of the material can lead to the emergence of zones of internal stress, which, when starting the burner, often cause cracking in the body metal.
The option of installing a burner from a used gas stove is much simpler. You will first need to determine the fuel costs required to quickly heat the metal for forging. When selecting a finished design, the power of the main unit (boiler, stove, etc.) for which the device was used is established. The product of this value by the efficiency (for gas it is 0.89...0.93) gives the desired power value W.
It is a little more difficult to establish the gas flow rate T. The calculation algorithm is as follows:
Installing a burner in a forge for forging with your own hands is done as follows. First, a confuser is inserted into the prepared lining hole, and the burner mouth is attached to it through a sheet gasket made of heat-resistant steel. The product itself is attached to it, and tubes for supplying air and gas are screwed in. They check the effectiveness of the regulators, after which they carry out a test run of gas from a cylinder or a stationary network. All work must be carried out in a well-ventilated area. At the slightest smell of gas, installation work is stopped and the source of possible leaks is determined.
The propane-butane mixture, which is used to fill cylinders for household gas stoves, under optimal conditions burns in air with a flame temperature of up to 1200 °C. It is sufficient for working with “hard” (medium-melting) solders: copper-zinc (brass), silver. But to obtain such a flame, the burner must ensure good mixing of gas with air, that is, supplying them in a strictly defined ratio - no more and no less! For ease of working with small parts, the torch must be thin, but at the same time stable and hot enough.
The gas pressure in the cylinder is 16 atm, it is too high for such a task, so it is necessary to limit the pressure supplied to the burner to 1.5-3 atm, using a welding reducer or a valve from a set for pitching skis. In this case, the nozzle nozzle should have a diameter of not more than 0.1 mm. To protect it from accidental clogging at the outlet of the cylinder, a filter element is needed, for example a ceramic one - from the fine fuel filter of the ZIL-130 engine, or a homemade one - from a small ceramic grinding head.
Since the burning rate of the gas-air mixture is relatively low, with a rapid flow out of the nozzle, the mixture may not have time to ignite - the flame will break off and the burner will go out. To avoid this, the divider must be made in such a way that through its peripheral holes part of the gas flows out at a low speed and forms around the main flow gas ignition "corona".
All this was achieved in a simple, easily repeatable design. The burner consists of only five parts: handle, supply tube, body, nozzle and divider.
The wooden handle was used from a burnt-out soldering iron.
The supply steel tube has an outer diameter of 10 mm and a wall thickness of 2 mm. At one end there are three conical belts machined for a tight connection of the hose, and at the other there is an M10 thread. Having slightly bent the tube on this side, we inserted it into the hole in the handle and fixed it there with glue.
Fig.1 Gas burner for flame soldering:
1 - gas supply tube with a diameter of 10x2 (steel); 2 - handle (wood); 3 - nozzle (steel); 4 - body (brass); 5 - brass divider)
The body and divider are machined from a brass rod with a diameter of 20 mm. Two radial holes with a diameter of 5 mm are carefully drilled into the body for air supply. Four radial holes with a diameter of 1 mm in the divider rod provide gas supply to a group of pilot holes in the front flange of this part.
During assembly, the divider was pressed into the body with a slight interference fit. The internal flange of the divider, on the contrary, was installed in the housing with a guaranteed gap: its diameter was machined 0.6 mm less than the internal diameter of the housing. This gap is necessary for throttling (braking) the gas flow supplied to the igniter holes.
The nozzle blank is machined from a steel rod. And its thin hole was made as follows. A blind central hole was made with a drill with a diameter of 2 mm, not reaching the exit of 1.5 mm, and the jumper was drilled with a drill with a diameter of 0.4-0.5 mm. Then, with light blows of a hammer, this hole was completely caulked. Next, gradually sharpening the end with a file or sanding paper, we found a section where the outlet hole had the required size. This place was defined as follows. Screw the nozzle onto the threaded tip of the burner tube. We put the supply rubber-fabric hose from the cylinder reducer onto the shank of the supply tube and secured it with a clamp. Having set the operating pressure, applied gas and, after waiting for it to displace the air from the hose, introduced the nozzle (without housing and divider) into the flame of the gas burner. By grinding the end, we achieved a burner flame length of 5-6 cm. Then we screwed the housing assembly with the divider onto the external thread of the nozzle.
The burner flame should be smooth and free of soot. Otherwise, adjust the amount of ejected air by turning the housing on the nozzle thread. If the threaded connection is very loose, it is sealed with FUM tape.
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Recently, our vocabulary has been enriched with new terms from various areas of public life (petting, pechting, etc.) In order to keep up with fashion and the progressive public, I called my opus"Gorelking or the saga of burners (homemade)"
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I have long had a warm (sometimes even hot) relationship with burners. Therefore, I share information with a special feeling.
It should be noted right away that we are talking about gas and propane burners. And precisely injection ones, because the oxidizer (air) is sucked into them by itself with the help of a jet of flammable gas (not to be confused with explosive gas) directed at the burner exit. Sometimes, however, gravity air flow is not enough, and to increase the combustion temperature of the mixture, air is pumped by a blower. But in any case, the air is not used from a cylinder, but simply atmospheric.
Therefore, only one gas tube is suitable for this type of burner, namely from a propane cylinder.Because in order to choose the right burner for your purposes,It’s not enough to just show a photo and write something, I had to record videos. They give a more clear picture of the operation of these devices.
This torch was originally created for soldering filigree with very small parts, so the main emphasis is on reducing the diameter of the flame. At that time, when this burner was made, small burners with a gas canister in the form of a burner handle were not yet sold. Therefore, the universal medium burner (described below) was taken as a basis and all dimensions were reduced proportionally.
Soldering small parts. Sometimes there are not enough hands to apply solder and hold filigree elements :) A special feature of this torch is the use of a divider. This achieves flame stability over the entire pressure range (within reason, of course), namely from 0.2 to 3 kg/cm2. The amount of air is not adjustable. It is selected by the diameter of the suction holes. If, however, you want to regulate the enrichment of the mixture, place a piece of silicone tube inside the knurled ring and, by rotating the ring, you can adjust it. The selected diameter of the nozzle hole is about 0.12 mm.
One of the methods for manufacturing an injector is shown. The capillary is soldered to a screw screwed into the tube. The screw is on the FUM. We maintain alignment. You can do it without a capillary by drilling a brass M3 screw on a machine.
But what really needs to be adjusted here is the position of the tube with the nozzle. After igniting the burner, move the tube back and forth and, having found the optimal position, secure it with a screw.
This torch is the most versatile torch for brazing small and medium-sized jewelry. (Of course, if you don’t need both hands to be free :) But adjustments can be made with the same hand that holds the burner.
It also contains a divider and therefore will never go out on its own at any normal propane pressure.
Adjust the flame with the same hand. A silicone tube protects the place where it is hung on a hook. Ebonite handle. When properly configured, the burner produces a narrow, long flame.
A heat-insulating sleeve is made around the burner head. Its use allows you to warm up the tip, which can slightly increase the flame temperature. It is made of asbestos fiber with the addition of kaolin and liquid glass.
The soldered object must be in the reduction zone of the flame. You can check this by placing a piece of copper wire into the flame. In the reduction zone, the metal surface becomes shiny.
The nozzle on this burner is made in the same way as on the previous one. The selected nozzle hole diameter is 0.16 mm.
The amount of air can also be adjusted by placing a piece of silicone tube of the appropriate diameter inside the ring. But with the dimensions in my drawing, the mixture is already fairly balanced.
As you can see, I didn’t really worry about the names of the burners, because the headings needed to be different. You have to call them something.
The next burner differs from the previous ones in the geometry of the arrangement of its component parts, but the operating principles are the same.
This burner has a softer flame, so it is better to use it for heating something (annealing wire, patination) or where the previous one cannot reach. It has the same divider as the previous burners. And the air leak is made in a peculiar way.
There is no drawing for this burner, because the main parameters are the same as the previous burner. The head and divider, as well as the diameter of the air duct, are the same. And, most importantly, the nozzle diameter is the same.
This torch is similar to previous hand torches. All parameters are the same, only the power is increased. This torch can be used to solder not only filigree, but also copper tubes of refrigerators.
The only standard component in this burner is the gas valve. But not a passing pass, as in previous cases, but a corner pass. Everything is attached to it. The selected diameter of the nozzle hole is 0.23 mm.
Today I received another letter asking me to explain where to get capillaries and, in general, how to make an injector. It was even proposed to use electrical erosion. I had no idea that this could cause problems.
So, I do it this way. First of all, I got used to using M3 screws for the injectors (a regular screw with a 3 mm metric thread).
So, take your box of M3 screws, dump it out and distribute it in an even layer. Then take a magnet and pull out all the attached screws. As a result, you will be left with screws that do not tighten. The fact that they look the same as the others should not fool you. These are plated brass screws. Numbered 1 in the photo.
If there are no M3 brass ones, nothing prevents you from doing this with M4.
Next, you have five paths:
- Immediately drill a hole with the required drill diameter. But this is for fairly large holes and with a precision drill.
- drill on both sides of the screw with a large drill, but not all the way. Then pierce this jumper with a needle or drill it with a small drill.
- drill with a large drill, and then fill the hole with PIC solder, and then work with it, which is much easier.
- drill with a large drill, and then use POS solder to solder a stainless steel wire of the appropriate diameter coaxially into the screw. And then pull out the wire.
And finally, you can solder a capillary of the appropriate diameter into the drilled hole using low-melting solder.
So, capillaries, that is, thin tubes.
Under the number 2 are capillaries from instrumentation instrument recorders. It’s unlikely that this advice will make you feel any better.
But number 3 is the most realistic option. When the doctor gives you an injection, don’t groan, don’t feel sorry for yourself, but gather your willpower and ask the doctor to give you the needle as a souvenir. He will give it back, he doesn’t mind. Thus, over the course of your sick life and that of your loved ones, you will collect an extensive collection of capillaries. And if you are lucky enough to give injections with imported syringes, the range will become much richer. They also have very thin needles, for example for vaccinations.
Don’t forget to also collect a collection of steel elastic wires for cleaning capillaries - number 4.
Number 5 - my new gas stove came with a whole set of nozzles with different hole diameters.
And finally, 6-end clamps for mounting multi-core electrical wires. A whole bunch of different diameters.
Sometimes workers complain that the burner is not working or is not working properly. Only working designs are posted here, no theoretical ones. This means that they did not notice or did not understand the principle of operation of the burners. Now I’ll try to explain using a mini-burner as an example. To do this, I will give a simplified diagram of this particular design.
1. Make sure that the incoming gas pressure is within the acceptable range of 0.2-4 kg/cm2. And the most working range is from 0.5 to 2.5 kg/cm2. And the diameter of the nozzle hole is 0.12 +/-0.02 mm.
2. The air intake holes are not closed.
3. In the picture. The diameter of the tube with the supplied gas-air mixture is 3.5 mm. And the central hole in the divider has a diameter of 3 mm. That is, 0.5 mm less. Therefore, part of the flow of the gas-air mixture diverges to the sides into small holes. The flow rate through these holes is less than the main flow. These small holes are precisely designed to ignite the main flow. And due to the low speed of the gas-air mixture, they burn stably and do not allow the flame of the main flow to be blown away. This is true for all burners of the type on this page with flame spreaders.
4. Based on the above, check whether there is still a 2mm gap between both parts of the burner head. If manufactured correctly according to the drawings, this gap will exist. Otherwise, you will observe only the central torch, without the side lights, which is easily blown away when the pressure of the gas entering the nozzle increases.
On the left is a non-working burner. On the right is how it should be.
5. And a few words about the position of the nozzle. The cut of the capillary from which the gas comes out must be positioned while the burner is running in the area opposite the air intake holes, or before these holes. And, of course, the tube with the capillary should not block the air holes.
