A stove or barbecue in a suburban area is most often made of brick. This is explained by the fact that masonry does not require special knowledge and experience, unlike working with metal. It is enough to know some nuances. In addition, self-construction of the structure allows you to save a significant amount of money.
First you need to choose a suitable location for a stationary structure. There should be no large plants or buildings nearby to avoid fire. The area should not be exposed to strong wind currents.
Let's consider an example of constructing a stove, the length of which is 6 ceramic bricks. To make a foundation, you need to dig a hole 30 cm deep, and the width should be 10 cm greater than the length of the future building.
Fix the formwork from edged boards around the perimeter. After filling the pit with sand and gravel, you need to thoroughly compact everything, while pouring water.
At the next stage, the base must be filled with a solution prepared from two bags of cement.
After about a couple of weeks, the mixture will dry and it will be possible to lay a layer of waterproofing. Ruberoid is suitable for this. The next layer will be one row of masonry, which is also filled with mortar.
The first two rows must be laid out as a solid rectangle to avoid overheating of the roofing material. All corners must be leveled using a building level. It is better to remove excess solution immediately.
During the laying out of the third row, the volume and space for the oven are formed.
For a barbecue, you must definitely make a blower. For this purpose, a design made of materials that can easily withstand temperature changes is used. As shown in the picture, a monoblock old stove is used.
A thermal gap must be left between the doors and the masonry, since the metal expands when heated.
It should be noted that the height of the hob depends on the size of the door, but 84 cm is considered optimal.
To allow heat to pass into the roasting pan, you need to leave a gap of two bricks. This will also make it easier to rake out the coals.
Thanks to proper laying, you can achieve reliable fixation of the door. For the woodshed you need to make a separate wall.
To improve the aesthetic appearance, it is better to use quarter bricks for the top of the woodshed. The door is secured with wire, which is secured with bricks.
After this, you need to make a firewood arch and a roof. As a support, you need to make another wall inside it. A firebox is made from the lower part, after which the hearth is erected using vetonite.
Be sure to leave some space in the center for installing the grate.
You need to spread cement mortar over all the seams and continue building the walls of the firebox to a certain height. Then rub the seams.
The woodshed is covered with a galvanized sheet.
Then you need to continue laying out the back wall, and also lay out a couple of rows of the future woodshed arch. As a result, the structure is already beginning to resemble a real barbecue.
Make six exits for smoke from the firebox.
The next step is to cover the firebox with a deck.
Place a heat-insulating layer on top of the firebox, followed by the hob.
At the last stage you need to build a chimney. To do this, bricks are simply laid out sequentially.
Before using the grill with the stove, you need to wait until the structure is completely dry. After this, you can start lighting the fire. I hope these detailed instructions will allow you to quickly and easily build such a structure.
Even with minimal knowledge of brick laying, you can make a stand for a cauldron yourself. First you need to decide on the size of the oven. The structure must have a place to store wooden firewood. The walls of the firebox are built from refractory bricks. The grate bars providing air flow are installed horizontally. There should be an ash pan under them.
Since the height of the structure will not exceed 90 cm, it is light in weight. Therefore, for the base it is enough to simply pour a layer of concrete up to 12 cm thick, and additionally strengthen it with reinforced rods.
During laying, all rows must be checked with a building level.
Once the dimensions have been determined, you can begin to lay out the first row along the stretched cord. You need to start laying the layer with a whole brick, after which the rows alternate with halves. This allows you to achieve a beautiful drawing.
To achieve a spherical shape of the hearth, you need to use halves that are cut at a certain angle. The ash pit door is fixed at the bottom.
In order not to spoil the appearance of the structure, all seams must be sanded down. In addition, this will prevent gases from escaping.
The ash pit door is blocked by the third row, after which you need to make a grate and begin forming the firebox. When laying the 5th row, the firebox door is attached. Using the next two rows, the oven is made.
On the eleventh row, you must make a hole for air circulation. A metal surface for the cauldron is installed on the finishing masonry.
Before using the oven, it must be completely dry. If necessary, the structure can be finished with fireproof tiles.
As noted above, there is no need to prepare a solid foundation for the furnace. It is enough to fill it with concrete and reinforce it with reinforcement rods. To do this, you need to prepare the place and clean it of contamination. Make formwork from the board. Then prepare the solution and fill it with a layer of 10 cm. Lay out the reinforcement.
To connect the seams, the first row must be laid out from halves, and the second from a whole brick, and alternate in this way.
When laying out the first and second rows, you need to leave a small hole for the ash pan. The door is secured with ordinary wire. In the following orders, you need to continue to build walls and make a grate and a hole for smoke.
The sixth and eighth rows need to cover the firebox. Continue to build walls in subsequent orders. At the final stage, install a hob with a hole.
Thanks to these instructions, you can quickly and without complications make a stove for a cauldron.
After preparing a solid foundation, you should begin laying out. For the first row it is recommended to use burnt brick. The corners are made of ¾ brick, which is cut using a grinder with a diamond blade. This is necessary for the connection.
The construction of walls begins from the second row. It is also necessary to form an ash pan.
The next row on the left is laid out without mortar. The cleaning doors and the blower are attached to the front using a wire, which is fixed with a solution.
The bottom channels overlap during the laying out of the fourth row.
The firebox grate is installed on the fifth row. It should be noted that the interior is laid out using refractory bricks, without the use of cement mortar.
Then on the left side there will be a water heating tank. Laying out the firebox also continues.
The grate is installed on the seventh row. The right wall needs to be strengthened by laying steel strips in the seam.
The next two rows continue to lay channels and walls. The walls of the firebox are also attached using wire.
In the process of laying out the tenth row, the arches of two fireboxes are connected. The bottom of the furnace is overlapped.
In the next row, you need to fix a metal corner 3x3 cm in front, and fix the hob on top. The first firebox is closed with a grate.
Refractory bricks are used to lay the side walls of the tiles, as well as the front walls of the furnace. A chimney is formed on the left side.
The next step is to make a wooden arch template. From the thirteenth to sixteenth rows, walls are erected, and it is also necessary to block the mouth of the crucible.
The furnace arch should narrow starting from the seventeenth row, but the chimney, on the contrary, should expand. The rear wall is reinforced with a steel tie.
At the next stage, the front wall is laid out and the crucible is closed.
To lay out the roof of the furnace, you need to make formwork from rectangular frames, on which semicircular plywood parts will rest. The front wall must be reinforced with a screed.
Fill the furnace with sand and compact it to preserve heat.
The next row is to shut off the furnace and begin narrowing the over-pipe.
In the process of laying out the next two rows, it is necessary to continue narrowing the overpipe and also form a chimney.
Use the flap to close the over-pipe on the twenty-fourth row.
The next two rows need to gradually connect the overpipe to the chimney.
The further number of chimney rows depends on preference and the height of the canopy. A pipe is installed outside.
After installing the pipe outside the roof, you can light the finished Russian stove for the first time. You can install a mobile grill in it and cook kebabs.
This concludes my review of making brick stoves. I think with step-by-step instructions there will be no problems with the construction of the structure.
By the way! Using the same principle, you can make an outdoor barbecue. We will look at these in more detail in future issues.
Metal cauldron stoves are an inexpensive option for a homemade device for preparing oriental cuisine. Many homemade designs and options have been developed, but the simplest is a stove made of a steel pipe. The work is simple, but requires compliance with several rules and step-by-step instructions for independent production.
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A piece of pipe selected to the size of the cauldron, which is installed on a brick stand; firewood is loaded through the top. Such a stove does not require a lot of time and skills to manufacture, but it will not allow the cook to enjoy the process of preparing pilaf due to the lack of draft and smoke screen from the stove.
Let's look at this reliable option, the production of which will require more time and money, but the result will definitely please you.
When making a stove for a cauldron from a pipe with your own hands, it is important, depending on your needs, to draw up a sketch or drawing of your future kitchen masterpiece. Please note a few points:
Design example
We take as a basis the use of a steel pipe with a cross-section of 250 mm and a furnace height of 450 mm. 
Using these dimensions, make a drawing and you can start making a stove for a cauldron from a pipe with your own hands.
Diagram and dimensions of the stove for a cauldron made of pipes
You will need to prepare:
To make a handle for the door, prepare a rod 6-8 mm thick and 200 mm long.
To make a stove for a cauldron from a pipe, you will need to prepare equipment and plumbing tools:
Having prepared all the ingredients, you can start making a stove for a cauldron from metal with your own hands.
All work is divided into several stages:
Important! If the cauldron does not sink to the required depth, you can cut out small segments at the top and bend the top of the pipe. At the same time, we ensure that the dishes are immersed to the required level.
Then the slag is chipped off and the quality of the seam is checked. The seam does not need to be completely sealed here, but it is better to weld the areas with burns and holes. The workpiece must be cooled.
The lower shelves of the corner are cut so that the leg touches the floor surface flat. At the bottom, for the stability of the furnace, small pieces of sheet steel are welded. These nickels are scalded only on the inside.
Then, having marked the mounting points on the sides of the pipe, they are grabbed. After making sure the handles are in the correct position, weld them to the base.
On the back side you can embed a piece of pipe for the chimney. In this case, the smoke will escape through the pipe and will not sting the cook’s eyes. A hole is cut in the furnace along the diameter of the pipe using electric welding at a height of 150 mm from the top of the furnace.
Then a branch is made from the pipe at 90 0. Having inserted it into the hole, 3 tacks are made, the correct position of the outlet is welded and it is welded in 1 pass. Then a pipe 1.5-2 m long is put on it, at the top of which a protective canopy is installed. Now the gases are diverted straight up.
Expert opinion
Pavel Kruglov
Stove maker with 25 years of experience
You can increase your traction in a simple way. At the bottom of the stove, drill a series of holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm for ventilation of the stove. But it is better to make an additional groove with a box. It will serve as an ash box and ash pit. In this case, they make servicing the stove easier and prevent coals from falling out of the holes.
Ready-made stove design for a cauldron made from a pipe
Craftsmen have developed a number of improvements to the design of the cauldron stove. Among them we can highlight;
There are many options, you can look at and make any design. It all depends on the capabilities and skills of the home craftsman.
You should not immediately start cooking pilaf on a new device. First you need to burn off the remaining oil from the steel. If an old water pipe was used, all internal surfaces are cleaned with a metal brush to bare metal. Then the oven is washed with water.
Now you can lay the first stack of firewood and heat the stove. During the first “start-up”, firewood can be loaded through the top. Subsequently, they are placed through the door. After thoroughly calcining the pipe, remove the slag and remaining wood from the stove.
Now you can start cooking pilaf on a homemade stove. Firewood is placed along the upper edge of the door and ignited. Now they should burn out a little and only then put the cauldron on the stove. 
A DIY stove made from a pipe for a cauldron will serve for a long time if all work is done responsibly and carefully. The design is simple, easy to manufacture, and with minor modifications, you can decorate your site. And food cooked over a fire always tastes better. It gives off the smell of smoke and home.
←Previous article Next article →About 12 years ago we bought ourselves a cast iron cauldron. And for the same number of years I dreamed of Uzbek pilaf, which my husband promised me to cook in this cauldron.
Last summer my patience ran out...
As a result, this stand for a cauldron was “born,” hastily made by my husband’s hands.
Before this, while fishing with friends, I noticed a tripod for cooking pots and cooking over a fire. Therefore, in my mind, a tripod was seen for the cauldron.
But, as I understand it, the order to cook pilaf was unexpected for my husband (12 years is not enough time to think!!!) and took him by surprise. As a result, in his mind, urgently, a very simple design was born from scrap materials that he had available at that moment in time:
Quite a small set. There was nothing to be done with the part of the metal barrel except to place it in the place where the fire pit was located (and that was what he liked best!).
And from the reinforcement he welded a triangle slightly larger than the diameter of the barrel, but so that the triangular stand he welded for the cauldron with his own hands was strong and fit the size of the round bottom of the cauldron itself. He managed to arrange it so that the cauldron would stand firmly and steadily on it.
All the dimensions of the triangle were taken by eye and selected experimentally, by laying out three pieces of reinforcement on the barrel this way and that.
Everything turned out to be as simple as shelling pears, you just had to use your brains and not wait for the weather by the sea for 12 whole years...
So, the organization of the place at the dacha for preparing dishes in a cauldron is as follows:
Stand for a cauldron made from a barrel and pieces of reinforcement This do-it-yourself stand for a cauldron has important advantages that emerged immediately during the cooking process:
There are several design options for cauldrons on sale:
You can simply buy a stand for the cauldron ready-made You can buy a stand for a cauldron ready-made in a trusted online store and it’s not that expensive. And at the same time a cauldron, if anyone doesn’t have one.
There are an innumerable variety of delicious dishes in the world that are prepared in all sorts of ways. Among them, dishes cooked over a fire have gained special love among gourmets and ordinary eaters. Fish soup, pilaf, borscht and other dishes cooked in a cauldron have an amazing aroma and simply amazing taste.
Cauldrons come in a variety of shapes and sizes; a hemispherical cooking container is considered classic. However, it will not be possible to cook anything in such a “saucepan” if there is no stand prepared for the cauldron.
In the simplest version, the role of a stand can be played by the most ordinary bricks, but such a support is unreliable and does not look aesthetically pleasing. If you want to cook over an open fire in comfort and without worrying about safety, then be sure to familiarize yourself with the types of cauldron stands and the options for making them yourself.
Upgrades for convenient cooking are varied:
Pot stand in the form of a tripod (tagan)- made in the form of a circle in the upper part from which three legs go down. The support of the tagan is provided by the legs located at a slight angle, and the cauldron itself is inserted into the circle during cooking.
This is one of the simplest models, available as a monolithic product or as a collapsible one, which is more convenient for outdoor events. Artistic forging is used as decoration for these products, which provides the aesthetic appearance of the tripod.
Stands on four legs no less comfortable than tripods. This option is also available in disassembled form and in the form of a cast structure.
Grill holder- the most convenient thing if you plan to cook outdoors not only over an open fire, but also in a cauldron. This design is made in the form of a square base and a circle (in which the cauldron is installed) on top.
In addition to cauldron stands used outdoors, there are also miniature options:
Stands for cauldrons can be:
The fundamental criterion when choosing a client is container volume for cooking, it must match the diameter of the stand's circumference. If the cauldron is wider than the circumference of the stand, then it will not be able to be placed stable, which is unsafe. If the cauldron is smaller than the circumference of the stand, then placing it in its proper place simply will not work.
Types of stands for cauldrons
If you use cauldrons of different sizes, then it is worth purchasing a stand for the cauldron in the form of supports and a hook, to which attach a thick-walled pot. An important factor when choosing a cauldron is the material from which it is made:
If purchasing a customer is impossible for some reason, make it yourself. For this you will need:
The scope of actions to create a client in record time is as follows:
At the site of the broken bottom a cauldron is placed, firewood is placed through the door and a fire is started. Now you can start cooking!
If this is your first time cooking in a cauldron, then you need to prepare it correctly. To do this you will need:
At this point, the preparation of the cauldron is completed, you can put it on the tray and start preparing dishes that will be mind-blowing in terms of aroma and taste.
It is unlikely that anyone who at least once tasted a dish cooked in a cauldron remained indifferent. Particularly impressionable connoisseurs of Asian cuisine immediately think that it would be nice to build a stove for a cauldron in your yard (at least, buy a ready-made iron one). And it must be said that this task is feasible, especially from a financial point of view. Let's try to figure out how they do this.
The cauldron is mainly used for preparing pilaf and other oriental dishes. The whole concept is that heat is supplied from all sides (even more from the sides), and the food is heated evenly. Ideally, the result should be “thinking”. This unique technique is usually explained as “simmering,” “steaming,” or “stewing.” In fact, products that touch the walls of the boiler are stewed, while those located in the thickness are steamed. You can install a pressure cooker in place of the boiler; you can also bake in a cauldron oven, like in a tandoor.
Section and arrangement of the stove for a cauldron with a diaphragm
A separate topic is cooking with smoke. It's not about smoking. This refers to brews: soups and camp condiments, kulesh and fish soup. There is no languor as such here, the main thing is that the smoke, “licking” the pot, overwhelms the dish.
In the first case, the boiler “sits” tightly into the nest, and combustion products are removed. The stove under the cauldron has a certain heat capacity, as a rule, it has simplified smoke channels and a pipe. Valves are used to regulate draft, doors for the firebox and ash pan. The boiler is placed as deep as possible.
To create simple masterpieces with the smell of smoke, you can limit yourself to simple homemade metal products or even a banal tripod. In this case, the boiler rises above the hearth, the depth is minimal. There are no adjustments or pipes, and the gases pass through the smoke holes near the walls of the cauldron.
A boiler in a brick structure should “sit down” almost completely
The cauldron is the heart of such devices, and in no case is a pot, cast iron or casserole dish. The correct container is a cauldron with thick walls (from 5 to 20 mm depending on the overall dimensions) with a spherical bottom. A must-have accessory is a tight-fitting lid.
For various dishes and cooking methods, it is advisable to use cauldrons of a specific shape:
Important! It is better to give preference to a boiler with four lugs, which, due to additional support points, will not be prone to tipping over in either direction.
As for sizes, there are no restrictions. But based on the materials – very much so. Cast iron is ideal. Due to its massiveness and heat capacity, it provides uniform heating; the pores of its walls “self-heal” over time with a fat layer. Products in such a cauldron glide and do not burn.
They say that an old family cauldron accumulates flavors and aromas that are transferred to new dishes.
Dishes cooked in an oven with a boiler
To cook in simmer mode, you need not only a special oven, but also the right boiler
The only alternative may be an aluminum cauldron, exclusively with thick walls. Stainless steel, copper, products with various non-stick coatings are all wrong; with their help, it will not be possible to achieve the right conditions for preparing traditional oriental dishes.
The stove for a cauldron made of brick has nothing to do with heating; as a rule, it is located on the street. The device is intended exclusively for cooking; thanks to some heat capacity and performance adjustments, it can be used to cook Asian style.
Externally, the stove resembles a small cabinet (sometimes with beveled or rounded corners) about 80-90 centimeters high, with sides the size of about 3.5-5 bricks. Like heating heat generators, there is a grate, a firebox and a blower, and the openings are necessarily equipped with doors. The chimney is made of metal or stone and is connected to the back/side wall of the stove; it almost always has a valve in its design to control the draft.
Stove firebox for a cauldron with two openings for smoke exhaust
The masonry itself is more complicated than it seems at first glance, but you can make stoves for a cauldron with your own hands! On the outside, ordinary stove brick is used; this is a casing-cladding. The most interesting thing lies in the design of the firebox. It is assembled from refractory bricks with fireclay mortar, and without ligation with a casing. The shape of the firebox should resemble a cylinder, so masonry is often done in halves or vertically placed bricks; the order of many models involves cutting/hewing rectangular materials.
Features of the formation of fireclay core
Important! To curb thermal expansion, the outside of the cauldron oven is often framed with a metal corner.
In the upper part of the firebox, one or more openings (the so-called “tucks”) are left to remove combustion products. Depending on the nature of the movement of flue gases, there are two designs of the stove under the cauldron:
One of the options for organizing gas removal
Important! The nest for installing the boiler is either cut out of brick or decorated with a cast-iron plate about 15-20 mm thick. The size of the hole should be such that the boiler is immersed in the firebox to at least two-thirds of its depth, ideally almost (!) to the very lugs.
There are quite a few factory-made inexpensive models on sale, but this is exactly the case when you can do it on your own and are almost guaranteed to succeed. You can make an iron stove for a cauldron with your own hands from any cylindrical object; most likely, you won’t even need welding.
The cauldron will stand very securely in the wheel rims
Home craftsmen use:
The optimal dimensions are chosen depending on the size of the boiler. The ratio of the diameter of the workpiece and the cauldron is chosen in such a way that the cauldron is deepened by about a quarter to a third. The optimal length of the product is 1.5-2 times the diameter (within 90 cm).
Dish with smoke on a chimney stove
First of all, an opening for the firebox is cut out in the workpiece. There are usually no doors here, and there is no ash pan either. If there is no bottom, a prepared platform or even soil can serve as a bottom in the combustion chamber. The chimney is used extremely rarely - only when doors are installed and an attempt is made to reproduce the simmering mode, as in a brick oven for oriental cuisine.
If the device is created from a barrel or cylinder, then it is necessary to cut off the top part to make a nest for the boiler. In stoves for a cauldron made from a pipe, the upper part is cut with a grinder (the depth of the cuts is several centimeters). The resulting petals are slightly bent outward to create a seat for the boiler. Sometimes they make do with several corner or rectangular cutouts (burnouts) through which the smoke will escape out.
Important! It is better to cut the cylinders while preserving part of the dome. You can drill holes on the rounded surface to remove smoke. Then the arch under the cauldron will allow you to “slow down” the gases a little and cook traditional oriental dishes more or less correctly.
Complex with separate grill and oven for cooking in a cauldron
Recently, combined metal structures, which are a barbecue with a stove for a cauldron, have become quite popular. The cylinder is made with its own separate firebox, or a shell without a bottom is welded on top of the box to use the heat of coals from the barbecue.
