The acidity of the soil is its ability to exhibit the properties of acids. With abundant planting, the land on the cultivated area gradually oxidizes, but not many varieties perceive acidic soil at all.
The soil with a neutral reaction is best suited for growing, since with its sharp change, the plants no longer receive the proper amount of nutrients and the applied fertilizers do not work to their full potential.
To obtain a bountiful harvest and beautiful flowering plants, it is necessary to determine the acidity in the area used, and take timely action to resolve it.
Strongly alkaline soil contributes to the active absorption of mineral fertilizers by the roots, during which the plant may stop developing, stop blooming and, as a result, die completely.
Under the influence of high acidity, harmful substances appear in the earth: aluminum, manganese (legumes, table beets and most vegetable crops are especially sensitive to them).
Also, an increase in the acidic environment prevents the positive effect of beneficial bacteria that help the decomposition of manure, humus, peat and similar fertilizers introduced into the soil, they are simply not absorbed.
It has been proven that bacteria and pests develop much more actively in acidic soil, which also leads to crop loss.
The type of acidity can change over time, usually this happens in connection with watering - the mineral components leave.
Every living plant, every variety of the same species, has its own sensitivity to acid balance. Even age and height matter, so living cultures cannot accurately determine the degree of alkali in the ground. Accurate measurements can be made only with the help of special equipment:
There are also the so-called simplest folk methods for analyzing the earth - pour a small lump of soil with acetic acid.
If the balance of alkali is increased, then the earth will begin to foam and create noise sounds, that is, a certain chemical reaction will occur.
Even certain types of weeds growing on the site help determine the approximate alkaline environment.
Numerous reasons that provoke soil acidification can be divided into two types: those occurring through the fault of the owner of the site and not within his competence.
Environmental factors:
External reasons:
Of course, you can plant only those plants that feel comfortable in an acidic environment, but this is not a way out of the current situation.
In autumn, after harvesting, when digging up a plot, you just need to add ground limestone to the ground in various doses (depending on the level of acid and the type of crop being grown).
For the same purposes, dolomite flour, cement dust and similar types of lime are used. Such measures do not always bring the expected positive results.
Then it is reasonable to call qualified specialists who will help you figure it out: they will take the soil for laboratory tests, make an accurate calculation of the required amount of limestone to be introduced.
Harvest and development of plants depends on good soil. Typically, gardeners improve soil fertility by reducing its acidity. But when growing some plants, for example, blueberries, conifers, hydrangeas, strawberries, the soil is made more acidic, and some bushes and fruit trees yield only when grown on acidic soil. To obtain the desired pH, you can use different methods and means.
Determine the acidity of the soil with a special device with an indicator. If there is none, acidity can be judged by the plants that grow on the site. On acidic lands, violets, horsetail, plantain, sedge, field mint, field speedwell, Ivan da Marya, fern grow excellently and magnificently. On slightly acidic soils, coltsfoot, chamomile, nettle, field bindweed, quinoa, wood lice and wheatgrass grow well.
Initially, you need to measure the level of pH acidity - its acidity is higher with a decrease in the indicator. If the changes show 5 units, it is necessary to acidify the soil.
Use of acid, sulfur, peat, sawdust
To acidify the soil, the simplest and most simple methods are used, one of which is the introduction of high-moor peat into the soil. The easiest way is to shed the soil with acidified water, for which 2 full tablespoons of oxalic or citric acid are first dissolved in 10 liters of water. Of the improvised means that can be found in every kitchen, acetic (malic) acid (9% strength) can be used to acidify the soil. In a 10-liter bucket, dilute 100 ml of this acid.
If you lower the level of soil acidity to pH 3.5-4 units, you can use sulfur. Up to 70 grams of the substance is added per square meter. The introduction of high-moor peat allows you to get the soil of the desired acidity. It is enough just to mix garden soil with peat and you can immediately plant plants in such a substrate. Peat will not require very much - 1.5 kg per square meter of area. Sawdust acidifies the soil well. They can be applied during planting, mixed with the soil, and also used as mulch. In this case, it is not necessary to acidify the soil throughout the season, since the sawdust gradually decomposes and acidifies the soil on its own.
Use of electrolytes
Many gardeners use battery electrolyte to increase the acidity of the soil. It must be new, unused. Such an electrolyte is dilute sulfuric acid, and sulfur effectively acidifies the soil.
To correctly calculate the dose of electrolyte application, you must first determine the level of soil acidity. If the pH of the soil is at the level of 6 units, an electrolyte solution with a maximum acidity of 3 units is used for the strait. To obtain it, 3 ml of a substance is dissolved in 1 liter of water, with a density index of 1.22 g / cm². When using a denser electrolyte (indicator 1.81), its volume in solution is reduced to 0.5 ml.
Fertilization
If you need to slightly increase the acidity of the soil, you can add humus or compost. To increase the pH by 1 unit, 8-9 kg of compost is added to the “square” of the area, which will completely replace 3 kg of humus. Acid fertilizers will also help acidify the soil: sulfate, superphosphate, fertilizers with a nitrogen content, for example, ammonium sulphate.
It should be remembered that one-time acidification of the soil does not allow obtaining a constant pH. Over time, the soil changes its acidity, so you need to periodically repeat the procedure for its acidification. Every month it is recommended to shed the soil 1-2 times with slightly acidified water. This will allow you to restore the original acidity.
Heathers and ferns, cranberries and blueberries, hydrangeas and rhododendrons grow in your garden. In this case, in addition to the generally accepted agricultural practices of care, you need to know how to acidify the soil. For many, including the above plants, the acidic reaction of the soil solution (pH<5,5) – важнейшее условие жизнедеятельности и здоровья. Чем это обусловлено, в каких ситуациях и как увеличить кислотность почвы, рассмотрим в этой статье.
The vast majority of horticultural and horticultural crops prefer a neutral or slightly acidic soil reaction. In numerical terms, this is the pH range from 5.5 to 7.5 units. Soil acidification is required if the pH lies beyond the upper limit of the fork (> 7.5) or the plant needs an environment more acidic than the one available on the site for growth.
Salt soils formed on a limestone base in arid steppe and forest-steppe regions have an alkaline reaction. Often they border on southern chernozems, in terms of mechanical composition they are clayey or loamy. The pH of the medium above 7.5–8 units adversely affects fertility and agrophysical properties.
When working with alkaline soil, the first thing to do is to loosen it and bring the acidity to neutral parameters. How - see below.
Note! Do not rush to acidify the soil under fruit trees - apricot, peach, mulberry, quince. They prefer a pH around 7-8 units. Some ornamental plants do not like an acidic environment - maples, hawthorn, honey locust, plane tree, clematis, peonies.
Neutral soil is considered to be in which acids and alkalis are as balanced as possible and neutralize each other. This is the optimal environment for the development of beneficial soil microflora, the absorption of nutrients by plants. Ideal for growing most root crops, legumes.
The neutral acidity of the soil can be a reason for acidification in case it is necessary to create conditions for crops that need a slightly or medium acidic environment. Slightly acidic soil (pH in the range of 5–6) is necessary for potatoes. Taking into account the fact that, as a rule, a large plot of the garden is allocated for this crop, it makes sense to lower the neutral acidity by 1–1.5 units, which will ensure better absorption of nutrition and increase productivity.
Slightly acidic soil environment - a guarantee of potato health
Lovers of moderately and strongly acidic soils include acidophilic plants. The area of their natural growth is wetlands, peat bogs, coniferous forests.
Over the years of evolution, the root system of plants has adapted to absorb nutrients from the aggressive soil environment. A distinctive feature of acidophytes is the absence of suction root hairs. They are replaced by microscopic fungi that penetrate into the root tissue and act as a supplier of moisture and trace elements. This symbiosis in botany is called mycorrhiza - fungus + rhizome (rhizome). They cannot live and develop normally without each other, and the condition for the existence of the mycelium is an acidic environment.
The group of garden and ornamental plants that need soil acidification is quite extensive:
Many indoor plants came to us from tropical and subtropical regions. Heat and high humidity levels provoke rapid decomposition of organic matter and a predominantly acidic soil environment. This determines which flowers love acidic soil, including indoor crops. Among those who prefer a pH in the range of 4.5–5 units are azaleas, camellias, fuchsia, monstera, cyclamen. Saintpaulias (violets), representatives of the numerous myrtle family, love the acidic soil.
The substrate for indoor plants of this group is prepared on the basis of peat, vegetable compost obtained from rotted coniferous and leaf (preferably oak) litter. Sphagnum moss is added as an acidifier.
Note! High-moor peat is suitable for acidification. Its distinguishing feature is brown. Lowland peat has a higher degree of humification, it is much darker.
There are several ways to make the soil acidic. Which substance (material) to take as an acidifier depends on a number of factors:
Let's dwell on the most effective options.
The following organic materials give an acidic reaction:
Organic is suitable for acidifying loose, well-aerated, permeable substrates. As practice shows, it acidifies the soil slowly, as it decomposes, but starts this process for a long period. An additional plus is the preservation of a loose structure, enrichment with humus and mineral nutrients. The addition of 10 kg of humus or 3 kg of fresh manure per 1 m² increases the acidity per pH unit.
Advice! To use organic matter effectively, it should be placed in the root zone of the plant, and not scattered around the site. For planting, an acidic substrate is prepared, which is laid in the hole. Subsequently, organic materials are used for mulching the trunk circle.
The method is not suitable if you need to achieve a quick result.
Acidification of heavy clay soils is more effective with the help of minerals.
Note! Some mineral fertilizers are used, on the contrary, to deoxidize the soil. This effect gives calcium nitrate, sodium nitrate.
Acid solutions are used if you need a quick result.
When the acid-base balance is adjusted to the needs of the crops, it must be maintained in an optimal state. In this case, the pH is adjusted with acidic organic fertilizers. A good option is to plant green manure, which acidify the soil. Incorporation of green manure into the soil and rotting of the root system provides the plants with available nitrogen and acts as a light acidifier. Such green manures include white mustard, rapeseed, oats, colza, legumes - lupins, soybeans, and vetch are effective in maintaining the pH balance.
How to acidify blueberries:
Most plants require a neutral soil reaction for good growth and development. On acidic and even slightly acidified soils, they get sick more often, productivity decreases, it happens that plants die altogether (with the exception, of course, of lovers of “sour”, say rhododendrons, heathers, cranberries, blueberries) ... from hunger.
This happens because in highly acidic soils, a significant part of the applied fertilizers (for example, phosphorus) passes into an indigestible state. And the bacteria that help plants absorb nutrients do not develop well in an acidic environment.
Acidic soils are characteristic of areas where a fairly large amount of precipitation falls. Calcium and magnesium are washed out of the soil, and calcium and magnesium ions on soil particles are replaced by hydrogen ions, the soil becomes acidic. The application of mineral fertilizers, such as ammonium sulphate or the use of sulfur, can also acidify the soil. And the introduction of 1.5 kg of high-moor peat or 3 kg of manure per 1 sq. m increases the acidity of the soil by one. It is usually recommended to check the acidity of the soil every 3-5 years and lime it if necessary, and the lighter the soil, the more often.
First, it must be said about how the soil is classified depending on its acidity: strongly acidic - pH 3-4, acidic - pH 4-5, slightly acidic - pH 5-6, neutral - pH about 7, slightly alkaline - pH 7- 8, alkaline - pH 8-9, strongly alkaline - pH 9-11.
Secondly, let's look at the problem from the other side - how plants relate to the acidity of the soil. There is a free (without specific numbers) gradation of the susceptibility of vegetable plants to soil pH. For example, beets, white cabbage, onions, garlic, celery, parsnips and spinach do not tolerate high acidity. Cauliflower, kohlrabi, lettuce, leek, and cucumber prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil. Carrots, parsley, tomato, radish, zucchini, pumpkin and potatoes agree to put up with slightly acidic soil rather than alkaline, they do not tolerate excess calcium, so lime materials must be embedded under the previous crop. For example, agronomists are well aware that the introduction of lime for potatoes leads this year to a drop in its yield, and the quality of tubers deteriorates greatly, they are affected by scab.
The plants themselves can serve as the first indicator of acidity: if cabbage and beets feel great, then the reaction of the soil solution is close to neutral, and if they turn out to be weak, but carrots and potatoes give good yields, then the soil is sour.
You can find out about the degree of soil acidity by weeds living on the site: grow on acidic soil horse sorrel, horsetail, wood lice, pikulnik, plantain, tricolor violet, Ivan da Marya, sedge, creeping buttercup; on slightly acidic and neutral – bindweed, coltsfoot, couch grass, odorless chamomile, thistle, quinoa, nettle, pink clover, sweet clover.
True, this method is very inaccurate, especially in disturbed biocenoses, which are most often garden plots, because many foreign plants are brought there, which, despite their preferences, successfully grow and develop on different types of soils.
You can determine the acidity of the soil in such a popular way. Take 3-4 leaves of blackcurrant or bird cherry, brew them in a glass of boiling water, cool and dip a lump of soil into the glass. If the water becomes reddish, then the reaction of the soil is acidic, if it is greenish, it is slightly acidic, and if it is bluish, it is neutral.
There is another simple folk way to determine the acidity of the soil. Pour into a bottle with a narrow neck 2 tbsp. spoons on top of the soil, fill it with 5 tbsp. tablespoons of water at room temperature.
Wrap in a small (5×5 cm) piece of paper 1 hour, a spoonful of crushed chalk and push it into the bottle. Now release the air from the rubber fingertip and put the bottle on the neck. Wrap the bottle in newspaper to keep it warm by hand and shake vigorously for 5 minutes.
If the soil is acidic, then when interacting with the chalk in the bottle, a chemical reaction will begin with the release of carbon dioxide, the pressure will rise, and the rubber fingertip will fully straighten. If the soil is slightly acidic, then the fingertip will straighten by half, if it is neutral, it will not straighten at all. Such an experiment can be carried out several times - to confirm the results.
There is another simple but tricky way: sow beet seeds in different parts of the garden. Where the beets have grown well, everything is in order with acidity, and where the root crop is small, underdeveloped, the soil is acidic.
However, it must be said that such methods can only approximately determine the acidity of the soil. A more accurate answer will only be given by an electronic acidity meter (pH meter) or a chemical test (litmus papers familiar to us from school, which are in the store are called "pH indicator strips" and are available in "booklets" and plastic tubes).
Strongly acidic soils turn litmus paper orange-reddish, while weakly acidic and alkaline soils turn greenish and blue-green, respectively.
Acidic soil can be neutralized by adding deoxidizing materials. Here are the most commonly used.
Before use, it must be extinguished - moistened with water to a crumbly state. As a result of the reaction, slaked lime is formed - fluff.
Reacts very quickly with soil, about 100 times faster than limestone (calcium carbonate).
In addition to calcium, it contains up to 10% magnesium carbonate (MgCO 3). The finer the limestone grinding, the better. One of the most suitable materials for soil deoxidation.
Dolomitic limestone (flour) - CaCO 3 and MgCO 3, contains about 13-23% magnesium carbonate. One of the best soil liming materials.
Chalk, open-hearth slag and shell rock applied in crushed form.
Marl A silty material mainly composed of calcium carbonate. If it has an admixture of earth, then the application rate should be increased.
wood ash in addition to calcium contains potassium, phosphorus and other elements. Do not use ashes from newspapers - they may contain harmful substances.
But there are two more substances that contain calcium, but the soil is not deoxidized. This is gypsum (calcium sulfate - CaSO 4), which, in addition to calcium, contains sulfur. Gypsum is used as a calcium fertilizer on saline (and therefore alkaline) soils with an excess of sodium and a lack of calcium. The second substance is calcium chloride (CaCI), which, in addition to calcium, contains chlorine and therefore also does not alkalize the soil.
Doses depend on the acidity, mechanical composition of the soil and the crop being grown. For example, doses of ground limestone can range from 100-150 g/sq. m on sandy and sandy loamy soils with a slightly acidic reaction up to 1-1.4 kg / sq. m on clay, strongly acidic soils. It is better to apply lime materials 1-2 years before planting or in front of it, evenly spreading over the entire area. The need for re-liming with the correct doses of lime will arise after 6-8 years.
When choosing a deoxidizing material, its neutralizing ability must be taken into account. For chalk, it is taken as 100%, for quicklime - 120%, for dolomite flour - 90%. ash - 80% or less, depending on what it is obtained from. Based on these figures, it can be said that it is better to use lime on strongly acidic soils, and ash - only on slightly acidic ones, otherwise it will have to be applied in huge doses, which can disrupt the soil structure. In addition, the ash contains a lot of potassium, as well as phosphorus, calcium, magnesium and about 30 different trace elements, so it is better to use it as a fertilizer, and not as a deoxidizer.
So, lime is most often used for deoxidation. It is inexpensive and well ground, so that the deoxidation process will go faster. To neutralize acidic medium loamy soils, experts recommend such doses of lime per square meter. m area: at acidity pH 4.5 - 650 g, pH 5 - 500 g, pH 5.5 - 350 g. However, as mentioned above, the dose also depends on the composition of the soil. The lighter the soil, the less lime is required. Therefore, on sandy loams, the indicated doses can be reduced by one third. If instead of lime, chalk or dolomite flour is added, it is necessary to recalculate their neutralizing ability - increase the dose by 20-30%. Dolomite flour is often preferred over lime mainly because dolomite flour contains magnesium and also serves as a fertilizer.
Lime changes the acidity of the soil much faster than, for example, chalk, and if you overdo it, the soil will become alkaline. Dolomite, ground limestone, chalk are carbonates that are dissolved by carbonic acid in the soil, so they do not burn plants, but act gradually and slowly. When the soil acidity is around 7 (neutral), the chemical deoxidation reaction will stop and no further increase in pH will occur. And deoxidizers will remain in the soil, since they are insoluble in water and are not washed out with it. After a while, when the soil becomes sour again, they will begin to act again.
Deoxidizing the entire area at once can be difficult. And gardeners do it in parts, for example, only in the beds. By the way, you need to remember that in different parts of the site, the acidity of the soil may vary. Usually, the acidity has to be adjusted approximately, and the dose of the deoxidizer is measured by eye, for example, with a glass (a glass of lime weighs about 250 g).
The results are evaluated using indicator strips (litmus paper) or a pH meter, while remembering that the effect should not be expected instantly, especially if chalk was used as a deoxidizer. dolomite or ground limestone.
The best time for liming is autumn and spring, before digging. And one more little subtlety: on the soil where liming was carried out, when feeding, you need to increase the dose of potassium by about 30%, because calcium, which contains deoxidizing materials, inhibits the flow of potassium into the root hairs.
As a result of scientific work, more specific values of soil acidity were obtained, which are optimal for the growth of fruit, berry and vegetable crops:
|
pH 3.8-4.8 |
pH 4.5-5.5 |
pH 5.5-6 |
pH 6-6.5 |
pH 6.5-7 |
|
|
blueberry tall |
strawberry, lemongrass, sorrel |
raspberries, potatoes, corn, pumpkin |
apple, pear, chokeberry, currant, gooseberry, honeysuckle, actinidia, onion, garlic, turnip, spinach |
cherry, plum, sea buckthorn, carrot, parsley, lettuce, cabbage |
Sometimes soil analysis shows that the soil has enough nutrients, but the plants do not develop. What is the reason? It turns out that one of the reasons is the accumulation in the soil as a result of chemical reactions of an excessive amount of free hydrogen ions. They determine the acidity of the soil. In an acidic environment, many vegetable and horticultural crops cannot grow and develop, since as a result of reactions, compounds are formed that are inaccessible for absorption by plant roots. It turns out that nutrients are present in the soil, but the roots of plants “do not see” them, begin to “starve”, which means they stop growing and developing.
Part of the soluble salts is carried away by rain and melt waters outside the root system of plants, in turn, impoverishing the soil. Long-term application of some mineral fertilizers also acidifies the soil. The total impact on the soil of all negative processes will increase acidity and, in this case, neither additional fertilizing, nor irrigation, nor other agricultural practices will help. The soil will need to be loosened.
The vast majority of vegetable and fruit and berry crops grow well and develop only in conditions of neutral, slightly acidic or slightly alkaline soil. Therefore, in order to create optimal conditions for plants, the acidity of the soil must be removed, or rather, neutralized (the agrochemical term is deacidified).
Soil acidity is affected by the amount and composition of chemical elements. The level of acidity is indicated by the pH symbol. The pH value depends on the amount and composition of chemical elements in the soil. Based on the results of chemical experiments, it was found that nutrients are optimally available to vegetable and horticultural crops at pH=6.0...7.0. A soil pH of 7.0 is considered to be neutral.
All values below 7.0 are considered acidic and the lower the number, the higher the acidity. Like acidity, the biological processes in plants are also affected by alkalinity, due to the alkaline elements contained in the soil. Alkalinity is reflected in pH values above 7.0 units (Table 1).
Both deviations from the neutral indicator indicate the degree of availability of certain elements to plants, which may decrease or, conversely, increase so much that nutrients become toxic and the plant dies.
Soil acidity affects the solubility, availability and uptake of nutrients by plants. So, on moderately acidic and acidic soils, phosphorus, iron, manganese, zinc, boron and other elements are more accessible and better absorbed by some plants. If acidity is increased (pH = 3.5-4.0), then instead of even greater assimilation of nutrients, inhibition of root growth and activity of their work will be observed, plants become ill from a lack of essential nutrients entering the organs.
In strongly acidic soils, the content of aluminum increases, which prevents the entry of phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, and calcium into plants. Substances that negatively affect beneficial microflora begin to accumulate in the soil. The processes of processing organic matter into humic substances and then into mineral compounds available to plants will practically cease.
The alkaline environment also significantly affects many biological processes. It prevents the absorption of some macro- and microelements necessary for plants. Phosphorus, magnesium, boron and zinc become inaccessible to plants. In some plants, the opposite effect is observed: in an alkaline environment, the root system of plants intensively absorbs the applied mineral fertilizers, up to toxicity.
Empirically, in agrochemical studies, the optimal boundaries of soil acidity for various crops, ornamental park and flowering plants were determined (Table 2). For vegetable crops, the most favorable is the acidity of the soil within the range of neutral or slightly acidic (рН=6.0-7.0).
| soil pH | Name of crops |
| 5,0 – 6,0 | watermelon, potatoes, pumpkin, parsnip, sorrel |
| 5,5 – 7,0 | tomato, white cabbage, carrot, corn, garlic, cucumber, pepper, parsnip, rhubarb, beetroot, peas |
| 6,0 – 7,0 | lettuce, onions, legumes, pumpkin, spinach, beetroot, beans, eggplant, garlic, sprouts, Brussels sprouts, radishes, zucchini, beetroot, carrots, leafy, turnips, tomatoes, chives, shallots, leeks, nutmeg melon, chicory, cucumbers, horseradish, spinach, rhubarb |
| 7,0 – 7,8. | cauliflower, artichoke, celery, lettuce, onion, asparagus, parsley |
| 4,0 – 5,0 | heather, hydrangea, erica |
| 5,0 – 5,6 | juniper |
| 5,0 – 6,0 | pine |
| 6,0 – 7,0. | 1 - woody ornamental, ornamental herbaceous perennials and annuals, lawn grasses 2 - fruit crops (plum, cherry) |
| 5,5 – 7,0 | apple tree, strawberry, pear. |
| 7,0 – 7,8 | clematis |
| 4,0 – 5,0 | blueberries, cranberries, currants, gooseberries, raspberries |
| 5,0 – 6,0 | lily, phlox |
| 5,5 – 7,0 | carnation, iris, rose |
| 7,0 – 7,8 | peony, delphinium |
Upon receipt of a land plot for temporary or permanent possession, it is necessary to analyze the soil and determine the level of its fertility, acidification, the need for processing to reduce acidity, alkalinity, etc. The most accurate data can be obtained by submitting soil samples for chemical analysis. If this is not possible, you can approximately determine the level of acidity by home methods:
Dig holes with a smooth wall on the spade bayonet along the diagonal of the site. Remove a thin layer of soil along the entire depth of the straight wall, mix on a film and take a sample at 15-20 g. Stir the samples separately in a glass of water, let stand and dip the indicator paper into the water. Together with the indicator strips on the packaging there is a scale of color changes with numerical values. When changing the color of the strip (the color scheme may be of different shades):
For a more accurate determination of soil acidity, compare the color reading with the digital reading (on the package) indicating the numerical pH value.
Grows on acidic soils:
Alkaline is dominated by:
On neutral or slightly acidic soil, suitable for growing most horticultural crops grow:
This definition is rather approximate, but will show in which direction to carry out further work on the site. Diagonally, the plot is collected in separate containers for a handful of earth. The selected soil samples are poured onto the film and a few drops of table vinegar (6 or 9%) are dripped. If a hiss is heard or the soil “boils”, bubbles appear - then the soil is neutral and suitable for use without the use of deoxidation.
Several leaves are poured with boiling water, let it brew for up to 15-20 minutes. Add a clod of earth. If the solution turned bluish - the soil is acidic, changed color to green - it may be neutral or alkaline.
This analysis can be done in early spring or late autumn when there are no green plants. A lump of earth is thrown into a glass of juice. If the juice has changed color and bubbles stand out - the soil is neutral in acidity.
In a small container, a gruel is prepared from soil and water. Sprinkle plenty of baking soda on top. There was a hiss - the soil is acidified. The degree of acidity needs to be determined more precisely in order to take the necessary measures.
The most accurate result at home can be obtained using analyzer devices: pH meters, acid meters, soil probes. They are very easy to use. It is enough to stick the probe with a sharp end into the soil and after a few minutes the indicator of the level of soil acidity will be displayed on the scale.
Analysis of data on the optimal soil acidity under vegetable, horticultural and other crops showed that not all crops need neutral soil. Some plants normally grow and develop on slightly acidic and even acidic soils. If it is necessary to reduce or neutralize the acidity of the soil, then deoxidizers are used.
Soil deoxidation can be carried out in the following ways:
Materials used for soil deoxidation include:
Before proceeding with the deoxidation of the soil, it is necessary to zone the summer cottage and allocate areas for a vegetable garden, a berry garden, a garden, a pharmacy garden, a country house with outbuildings, a garage, a recreation area and others. Choose those that must be checked for acidity. Conduct testing and, having identified the level of soil acidity in the selected areas, proceed with the adjustment.
The most common method of deoxidation is liming with slaked fluff lime, dolomite flour, chalk, lake lime (gas-lime). Depending on the type of soil and the level of acidification, limestone application rates vary (Table 3).
Liming of acidified soils is usually carried out on heavy soils after 5-7 years, on light soils after 4-5 years and on peat soils after 3 years. The depth of liming captures a 20-centimeter soil horizon. If lime is applied at a lower rate, then only a 5-6-10 cm layer is limed. When making lime, it must be evenly dispersed over the soil surface. It is advisable to water the soil after making. Deoxidized soil will reach a neutral reaction in 2-3 years.
Lime is a hard deoxidizer and, at a high rate applied to the soil, can burn young plant roots. Therefore, liming with lime is carried out for digging in the fall. During the autumn-winter period, lime will interact with soil acids and other compounds and reduce the negative impact on plants. In this regard, dolomite flour and chalk are softer and safer soil deoxidizers for plants. They are safe to use for deoxidation in the spring, it is better when moisture is closed.
Lime is recommended for application on heavy clay soils. Dolomite flour and chalk are more effective on sandy and sandy light soils. Dolomite flour enriches the soil with magnesium, potassium, calcium, and some trace elements. Gage in its effect on soil deoxidation is more effective than dolomite flour.
Remember! Soil deoxidation with limestone cannot be combined with fertilization. They are bred in time: deoxidation in the fall, fertilization - in the spring. Otherwise, superphosphate, urea, ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate and other substances enter into compounds that adversely affect the availability of nutrients to plants.
Of the ash materials for soil deoxidation, peat and wood (wood) ash is used.
Wood ash is a wonderful natural deoxidizer. The application rate for basic deoxidation is 0.6 kg/sq. m area. If it is used as an additional deoxidizer for the next year after the main deoxidation carried out with an incomplete rate, then the ash consumes 0.1-0.2 kg / sq. m.
Wood ash must be applied in autumn and not mixed with fertilizers. Being a fairly strong alkali, it enters into chemical reactions with soil nutrients, converting them into a form inaccessible to plants. Therefore, it is possible to deoxidize the soil with ash, but not to get a harvest for another reason.
Peat ash is much poorer in active components that enter into chemical reactions with soil acids. Therefore, the doses of peat ash are increased by 3-4 times with the main application and by 1.5-2.0 times with an additional one. The application rules are the same as for liming.
To deoxidize the soil, some gardeners use green manure crops. One- and perennial plants sown in autumn with their deeply penetrating roots push the soil, raise nutrients from the depths to the upper layers. Forming a large green biomass, they practically replace manure, which has the properties of a deoxidizer. Of green manure, the properties of soil deoxidizers are:
In general, all green manures, by increasing the content of organic matter in the soil, contribute to the correction of soil acidity. You can read more about how to use green manure in the article “What green manure to sow before winter” The best preparation for maintaining the soil at a neutral level in terms of acid content is the constant use of green manure. The soil will become fluffy, fertile, with a neutral reaction without the use of deoxidizers.
Recently, complex soil deoxidizing preparations have appeared on store shelves. They are very convenient, as they dramatically reduce the amount of physical work. In addition, in addition to deoxidizing substances, they also contain useful components that help increase the fertility of deoxidized soils:
and other elements needed by plants during the growing season.
These drugs are applied in the fall for digging, followed by watering. The neutral reaction of the soil is manifested in the 2nd - 3rd year.
.jpg)
