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Perhaps, due to the heating season, the air in the room has become dry, then the oleander will benefit from regular spraying with water at room temperature: the tips of its leaves will not dry out. During the active growing season, the oleander is watered very abundantly; During the dormant period, watering is limited. Do not water the oleander with cold water - it does not like it. Do not allow the earthen clod to dry out, including in winter.

It depends on where they dry... If they dry up (I mean the CROWN of the oleander), then you are not watering it enough. If it's down, you're watering too much...

In winter, it is advisable to spray the plant with water at room temperature. If the air is dry, the tips of the leaves may dry out.

And it drops its leaves due to lack of light!

got too much to drink

Oleander requires a large room or greenhouse. It blooms in summer with fragrant flowers collected in clusters above narrow, willow-like leaves. The wood and sap are poisonous. The oleander, when it grows into a large bush, is not easy to care for - in winter the pot or tub needs to be moved to a cool room, and in summer it needs rest in the fresh air in the garden. In autumn, faded shoots are pruned.

SECRETS OF SUCCESS

Temperature: Moderate, in winter not lower than 8°C. Lighting: Bright sunlight. Watering: Abundant from spring to autumn, moderate in winter. Water with soft water. Air humidity: Does not require spraying. Replanting: If necessary in spring. Reproduction: By stem cuttings in spring or summer.

N. oleander may look like a compact bush when purchased, but keep in mind that it will grow and can reach 2m in height. The culture includes forms with white, pink, red and yellow flowers.

If there is a lack of light in the summer, it does not bloom.

With a lack of light in the autumn-winter period, the plant sheds its leaves.

Damaged by a specific disease - oleander cancer.

Poor flowering of old oleander bushes occurs due to lack of nutrition and light, poor watering and lack of pruning. Plant care:

For normal development and flowering, oleander needs a very bright, sunny place with a constant flow of fresh air.

Grows well on south windows. When grown on north-facing windows, it may shed its leaves due to lack of lighting, so you can create additional lighting with fluorescent lamps.

In summer, you can take it out into the open air (balcony, veranda or garden) and keep it in a sunny, well-ventilated place, but you should protect it from precipitation. In the garden, it is best to place the oleander near the south wall. If you do not have the opportunity to place the plant outdoors in the summer, you should regularly ventilate the room.

In winter, bright lighting is also necessary. You can create additional lighting using fluorescent lamps, placing them above the plant at a distance of 60-70 cm, for at least 8 hours a day. In the autumn-winter period, it is also necessary to ventilate the room, but drafts should be avoided.

When there is insufficient light, the oleander sheds its leaves. If you purchased an oleander and it was kept in low light, then you need to gradually accustom it to more light.

In the spring and summer (especially during the flowering period), the plant prefers a fairly high air temperature (20-27°C) with a constant flow of fresh air. In autumn, the temperature is gradually reduced to 18-15°C. In winter, oleander is kept in cool, well-lit places at a temperature of 8-15°C; from mid-March, preferably not lower than 15°C. At higher temperatures, mandatory ventilation of the room is required.

Oleander is watered abundantly from spring to autumn, immediately after the top layer of the substrate dries. On hot and sunny days, water can be left in the tray when watering. Also, in hot weather, place the pots in trays with water and make sure that there is always water in them. But if it’s cloudy and cool, the water is poured out of the pan. Watering is done with soft, well-settled and warm water (two to three degrees warmer than the temperature in the room where the plant is located).

In the autumn-winter period, the plant is watered moderately, depending on the temperature, making sure that the soil does not sour and the roots do not rot. Water after two to three days, after the top layer has dried. Oleander is sensitive to drying out of the earthen coma.

The plant does not need spraying in the spring and summer. On hot days, it is best for the oleander if you place the pot with the plant in a pan of water. In winter, it is still advisable to spray the plant with water at room temperature. If the air is dry, the tips of the leaves may dry out.

The plant responds well to feeding in the spring and summer with liquid organic and mineral fertilizers (alternating) weekly or once every two weeks. Fertilizing should be done on cloudy, cool days and half an hour after watering the plant.

The splendor of oleander flowering depends on its pruning. Pruning is done after flowering, shortening the branches by half or even more, because flowers are formed at the ends of annual shoots that grow well after short pruning. Cut branches can be used for cuttings that take root well.

In flowering specimens, vegetative shoots that appear under the flower buds should be plucked out, otherwise they will interfere with their development.

The reason that it does not bloom is mainly due to lack of pruning or weak pruning, as well as insufficient light, lack of nutrition and moisture.

Oleander is an actively branching, beautifully flowering shrub. Despite its evergreen status, a small amount of oleander foliage still turns yellow and falls off in the fall. This is how nature intended it. The plant updates its lush “wardrobe” from time to time. If the bush does not lose its fresh, healthy appearance, there is nothing to worry about.

In general, pests and diseases of oleander rarely bother them. This is usually a consequence of improper plant care. Oleander is not such a whimsical sissy. Still, don't relax. Dangerous pests of oleander: spider mites, mealybugs, scale insects, the bacterium Pseudomonas tonelliana - are always ready to attack. These tiny, barely noticeable villains are capable of causing him great harm.

Spider mite

The internodes are covered with a thin, dirty cobweb, the oleander leaves droop lifelessly. Spraying with water and increased watering cannot restore their elasticity. Crown growth is minimal. White grains are scattered on the back of the leaves. If urgent measures are not taken, the grains collect in whitish spots and then merge into a continuous powdery coating. The leaves dry out and fall off. The petals of withered flowers dry out and turn brown.
Spider mites especially often infect plants in the summer, when air humidity is at a minimum and temperatures reach record highs. However, in winter, when the heating in apartments is constantly hot, the conditions for spider mites are no worse than in the hot summer.

How to get rid of spider mites?
First, we don’t panic and urgently eliminate errors in the maintenance of oleander. Secondly, we begin an intensive fight against the pest. In the initial stage of the disease, there is still hope to save the plant by daily spraying and washing the foci of infection with a soap solution. If this hope is not justified, we spray the oleander with one of the preparations: Actellik, Wertimer, Fitoverm. To forget about spider mites forever, repeat spraying at least twice more. The optimal interval between treatments is 7-10 days.

Mealybug

A small (3-6 mm), hairy, shapeless, whitish-curdled, harmful insect. The monster reproduces quickly, especially in the autumn and spring. But it is easy to detect and begin treatment on time. Sticky, unpleasant clusters of hairy “fleas” are localized on oleander buds and in the axils of young leaves, actively sucking the juice from them. Flower buds dry out without opening, leaves become smaller, become deformed and dry out.
The mealybug prefers rooms that are infrequently ventilated; the air in them stagnates. Ideal when the room is damp and cool.

Methods for controlling mealybugs
There are many of them, but they all require complex processing, time and patience. Treatment will not be quick. Mechanical cleaning of pests and sticky deposits (with soap solution) cannot be carried out without insects getting into the soil. After such cleaning, it is necessary to water the soil with calendula tincture or horsetail tincture. You will have to repeat spilling the soil and spraying the oleander (every 7-10 days) until the plant is completely cured. Transplanting an infected bush into new soil will have a good effect if the roots of the plant are thoroughly washed and the pot is sterilized.

Some gardeners advise giving the oleander a hot shower, since the mealybug does not tolerate high temperatures. There are other folk methods. In my opinion, they are all labor-intensive, and their results are questionable. I prefer to use chemicals to combat this complex pest: Aktara, Calypso, Confidant, Fitoferm, Actellik - spilling soil in a flowerpot and spraying the crown.

Shchitovka

Small tubercles appear on the oleander trunk, usually near the ground. They remind me of apple scab. You can pick off the tubercle with your fingernail, it will be crushed and become wet. A discolored spot will remain in place of the tubercle. Scale insects multiply quickly, move up the trunk, and move onto shoots and leaves. Scale insects camouflage themselves to be invisible. Therefore, the color of the pest can be brownish, brownish, or greenish. A plant affected by scale insects looks depressed, its leaves curl and fall off.
The scale insect is brought in with the soil, or it can move from another plant. The pest is removed mechanically - by hand. The scale insect covers itself like a shell from all kinds of sprays, so all chemicals are ineffective against the scale insect.

Wipe the infected areas with a sponge soaked in soap or alcohol solution. Additionally, to ensure proper processing, the soil in the flowerpot is spilled with Actelikt or Aktara.

Oleander crayfish

An insidious disease. It goes on for a long time hidden from the eyes of an inexperienced grower. A minor pigmentation disorder in the form of barely noticeable light spots will not cause concern for everyone. Over time, these spots increase in size. But again, this phenomenon can be associated with insufficient lighting or blaming yourself for missing feeding the oleander. Concerns about the health of the plant will come along with the appearance of ugly thickenings and dark growths on its shoots. The shoots will become brittle and the leaves will dry out. Unfortunately, the disease has no cure.

The causative agent of the disease, the bacterium Pseudomonas tonelliana, is introduced by the pests described above. Oleander cancer can be prevented. It is enough to follow the rules of flower care and promptly destroy pests.

If your oleander does get sick, try to prolong its life by regularly cutting out and disposing of infected shoots. You can also cut cuttings from healthy shoots and place them for rooting. There is a high probability that they will grow into healthy plants.

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When oleander leaves turn yellow and fall off, this indicates unsuitable growing conditions, an infection with pathogenic fungi or an attack by pests. To correctly determine the cause and choose the right method of treating the plant, it is useful to know the symptoms of oleander diseases and learn to distinguish between them. Here are the most common oleander diseases and how to combat them.

Physiological diseases

Oleander diseases with a physiological basis arise from improper growing conditions or errors in care. Because of overwatering leaves become unnaturally green, turn yellow and fall off, also appear brown spots. In turn, when water shortage lower leaves and flowers turn brown and dry out.

To avoid problems, the flower is watered abundantly (every day in hot weather), providing a permeable substrate (soil mixed with peat and sand) and drainage from pebbles or expanded clay at the bottom of the pot. After watering, it is necessary to remove excess water from the stand under the pot. Do not expose the plant to natural precipitation (a flower standing outdoors should be under a canopy). In winter, the oleander goes into a dormant state; watering should be significantly limited.

When only the edges of the leaves dry out, the plant suffers from potassium deficiency. Feeding with fertilizer for flowering plants will help; this type of fertilizer is rich in potassium.

Strong drafts cause yellowing of oleander leaves. Too low temperatures and freezing lead to lethargy, fading of shoots and wilting of leaves. The pot with oleander is placed in a warm, sunny and protected from the wind place. In our climate, plants are placed outside from about mid-May until October, when the danger of frost has passed.

Fungal diseases

The most common fungal disease on oleanders is gray mold and leaf spot.

Sign gray rot– white or gray coating on the leaves, stems and flowers of oleander. When, leaf spot– light brown spots appear, sometimes with a darker edge. Factors influencing the development of fungal diseases are: too much humidity, low temperatures, excessive plant thickening, excess fertilizer. Parts affected by gray mold or leaf spot must be removed and burned, and the plant should be sprayed with a fungicidal preparation.

Pests

Pest attacks are facilitated by too high a temperature (especially in the wintering room) and lack of ventilation. The result of pest activity is yellowing of oleander shoots and leaves, then atrophy of the entire plant.

Pests from the Coccid group (false scale insects, scale insects, mealybugs) and aphids often appear on oleanders. Symptom of the occurrence of false scale insects– flat, 2-3 mm, brown or black spots on the plant, in case scale insects– convex cubes measuring about 8 mm. Typical pest oleander scale characterized by plates of light shades. Mealybugs- insects covered with a white, powdery coating. Pests are removed manually by wiping and washing the plant with soap or alcohol.

On oleanders it forms numerous colonies of small wingless insects, on both sides of the leaves and on the inflorescences. Attacked plants grow more slowly and become covered with sticky secretions of aphids, and sooty fungi develop on the secretions. To combat aphids on indoor plants, use natural remedies that are safe for use near residential premises, for example potassium soap with garlic scent.

Oleander is an extremely attractive shrub with large, wonderfully smelling cyclamen-colored flowers. But despite all the attractiveness of its appearance, it is better not to place this flower in residential premises, and especially in apartments where there are children and pets.

As beautiful as oleander is, it is also dangerous, since almost all parts of the plant are poisonous, and the toxins persist even when the plant dries out. Even the moisture that comes from the plant is dangerous, so it is best to place such a beauty in rooms where there is a lot of air and people do not stay there for too long.

With proper care, this shrub reaches a height of about two meters. Its stems are branching, dark green with a slight brownish tint. The leaves of the bush are long and narrow, lanceolate, with entire edges. They reach a length of 10 to 15 cm and a width of up to 3 cm. A light vein runs through the middle of the longitudinal leaf, and the leaf itself is attached to the branches using a short petiole.

The flowers are presented mainly in pink and white variations, but you can also find yellowish coloring of the petals.

The shape of the inflorescences ranges from simple to double. After flowering, fruits ripen on the branches, up to 10 cm in length. The toxicity of the plant is due to the fact that it contains a high content of oleandrin and cornerin.

And if the juice of the plant gets inside, it causes serious poisoning, occurring with symptoms of colic, vomiting and diarrhea and turning into deviations in the functioning of the cardiovascular system and central nervous system, up to cardiac arrest. So it is recommended to place this plant so that contact with it is in exceptional cases and only with protective gloves and a respirator.

If the gardener plans to propagate his plant on his own, then this procedure must be scheduled for spring or autumn. The simplest method is propagation by cuttings, and it also allows the daughter plant to inherit all the varietal advantages of the parent bush.

For this type, the following manipulations will be required:

• It is necessary to find half-woody parts on the plant. Use a sharp knife to cut them so that the cut area is not damaged. The length of the cutting should be approximately 15 cm.
• The cut must also be treated with charcoal powder so that there is no source of infection or breeding ground for bacteria.
• You need to remove all leaf plates with petioles from the cuttings, leaving only the top three leaves. But they need to be cut in half. Treat the lower end of about 2.5 cm with a fungicide, and then with a preparation that will help the formation of the root system. Then the cutting is placed in good loose soil. Part of the root collar must be sprinkled with sand to prevent putrefactive processes from forming.
• Over the next month and a half, the cuttings will take root. For good root formation, the preparation should be periodically added to the water for irrigation.
• It is important to observe the temperature regime of the water, which should be approximately 25 C. The top of the cutting must be covered with a jar or thick transparent polyethylene, since the young plant needs high humidity and diffused light. But periodically it is necessary to ventilate the mini-greenhouse.
• You can also root oleander in water. To do this, after all sanitary procedures, you need to lower the cuttings into water, build a greenhouse on top, and periodically add water as it evaporates.
• When the length of the roots is about 3-3.5 cm, the plant can be replanted.

The cutting with roots should be transplanted into a mixture composed of: fine sand, charcoal and perlite. Raw materials are taken in equal proportions. Before replanting the plant, it is necessary to sterilize the soil to remove bacteria and microbes. This procedure can be done in a water bath.

This method is more labor-intensive in achieving the result, but it makes sense to study it too, since it is not always possible to grow a plant from cuttings of the mother bush:

1. The most important thing is to find high-quality material with a high degree of germination.
2. A fungicide-based solution is prepared in which the seeds are treated for half an hour. After this procedure, the seeds should be placed in a container containing a solution that stimulates plant growth.
3. Prepare the soil mixture in the same way as for cuttings.
4. It is important to remember that the seeds must be placed in warm soil.
5. After the seeds are placed in the soil, small greenhouses should be built and the containers containing the seeds should be covered.
6. Also, the entire surface of the container must be well illuminated; for a better effect, you can use phytolamps.
7. In order for the seed material to have enough strength for germination and further development, the seeds should only be slightly pressed into the soil and sprinkled with soil.

Oleander is different in that even with good quality seeds, seedlings will not be friendly. Their pipping varies from 30 to 90 days. But as soon as the first leaves grow, you can pick the plant.

Oleander can be safely placed on the south side of the room, since the plant tolerates direct sunlight very well, and needs it intensely:

• In the summer months, the flower feels good at temperatures from 24 to 28 C. But in winter, it is best to keep the shrub alone and indoors with a lower temperature. By the way, the abundance of fresh air only benefits the oleander, and it does not suffer from drafts at all.
• Watering for the plant must be plentiful, but the constant presence of moisture has a bad effect on the shrub. Therefore, after thoroughly wetting the earthen lump, you need to wait until the top layer dries at least a few centimeters.
• Since the shrub does not like high humidity, a period of summer rains will be sufficient for it if it spends the warm months outdoors.
• It is worth paying special attention to the flowering period. It is imperative to apply complex fertilizers for flowering shrubs. Once a month you need to apply mineral fertilizer, the next month organic matter is added. Feeding the flower should begin in early spring, but should be completed by the end of autumn in order to provide the oleander with winter rest.
• Pinching and pruning help the oleander retain its decorative qualities for a long time. To create larger flowers, you should pinch out vegetative shoots. The main haircut is carried out in the autumn months.

Since oleander is a large and profusely flowering plant, the soil in which the flower grows quickly becomes depleted even despite abundant fertilizing. Therefore, replanting shrubs must be approached responsibly.

It is worth preparing in the fall for spring replanting an earthen mixture in the following combination:

• turf soil - 1 part
• leaf soil - 1 part
• fine sand or PSG – 1 part
• garden soil – 1 part
• rotted manure – 1/2 part
• perlite

This mixture must be mixed well; in winter, for disinfection, you can keep it on the balcony or outside, in the garden, but a month before transplanting, the mixture must be transferred into the house. The mixture should defrost and become saturated with air. It should be shed with fungicides and a solution of potassium permanganate.

For young plants, replanting is required annually.

During the procedure, you can cut off some of the roots, but this will lead to the plant being sick for a long time and the growth of the root mass will slow down flowering. When the plant reaches adulthood, replanting will present certain difficulties.

Then you can simply remove the top layer and add a new one, but for greater effect, you should still lay the flower on its side with outside help, remove the pot from the earthen ball and remove the old soil. Then, good drainage is placed in the planting container and the plant is placed. Then the voids are filled with soil.

Even an inexperienced gardener can grow oleander, but it is worth remembering that this beautiful flowering shrub is quite dangerous if safety precautions are not followed.

More information can be found in the video: