By the beginning of August, the cucumbers in the greenhouse began to produce fewer fruits. There are no leaves at the bottom of the plants (they dried out and were cut off). Is it possible to prolong fruiting?
You can extend the fruiting period of cucumbers if they are relatively healthy, not damaged by pests and continue to grow. The whiskers are an indicator of the plant's condition. If the formation of whiskers has stopped, then the growing season is over, nothing can be done. If new tendrils form, at least in the upper part, then the plants can be rejuvenated.
The formation of new cucumber tendrils is an indicator of plant growth
The essence of cucumber rejuvenation is to stimulate the formation of new roots in the lower part of the stem. To do this, the lashes need to be removed from the trellises, parts of the bare stems should be placed in rings on the prepared soil (the mulch should be removed and the soil should be carefully loosened). It is advisable to secure the laid stems with something, for example, pin them with spikes or wire staples. Then they need to be covered with nutritious disinfected soil. After some time, roots will appear on the part of the stem sprinkled with soil, which will ensure a new wave of fruiting.
Cucumbers that can be rejuvenated (the lower part of the vines is exposed, and the upper part continues to grow)
In order not to break the vines when removed from the trellises, the plants should be slightly wilted, i.e. without pre-watering. This is easy to do if the cucumbers are formed into one stem and woven along polypropylene twine attached to a horizontal crossbar at the top of the greenhouse. In this case, you need to untie the polymer thread, lower it, laying the lower part of the stem in rings, and, adding the required length of twine, secure it again. If the cucumbers are woven along the net without strict shaping, then removing them for rejuvenation will be problematic.
The soil for backfilling the stems can be purchased ready-made, or a few days before the upcoming procedure, dig up the soil in a place where pumpkin crops did not grow, spill it with a fungicidal preparation (phytosporin, dark pink solution of potassium permanganate or some other), let it dry a little, add fertilizer and mix well.
Cucumbers clinging to twine, easy to lower for rejuvenation
By the way, spraying cucumber vines with a weakly concentrated urea solution (an incomplete matchbox of the substance per 10 liters of water) stimulates the formation of new leaves, which means it also rejuvenates the plants.
You can grow new cucumber seedlings (fortunately, this requires little time; they begin to bloom approximately on the 40th day, and after another 12 days the first greenery will form) and replant them with “aging” plants. When the young plant begins to actively grow, the old one can be removed (not pulled out by the roots, but cut at ground level).
Cucumber seedlings grown to replace aging plants
You can try to grow seedlings not from seeds, but from cucumber shoots (shoots of the second or subsequent orders formed in the axils of the leaves). When forming cucumbers, excess shoots should be pinched. If you let them grow a little, and then cut off the stepson, i.e. a short lash with a top and one leaf, then it can be placed in water. After some time (10-12 days), roots will form on the stem. Such seedlings will begin to bear fruit much earlier than those grown from seeds.
Rooted cucumber shoots, ready for planting
Before planting seedlings, the soil must be watered with a solution of a fungicidal preparation, especially if aging plants showed signs of downy mildew or other fungal disease. If the second seedlings are grown from seeds, then you need to choose hybrids that are resistant to the main diseases characteristic of this crop.
When replanting new seedlings, it should be taken into account that in the summer-autumn period the illumination is lower than in the summer and spring-summer. Therefore, it makes sense to plant fewer plants than were growing before.
We wish your cucumbers to look like this in the fall
We hope that you will not be left without fresh, crisp cucumbers this fall, and that your greenhouse will be fully operational this season.
By the end of summer, the cucumber vines turn yellow. Fruiting is on the decline. Gardeners are upset by the small harvest; they want to pamper their family with more fresh cucumbers. But to be satisfied with the abundance of cucumbers, it is enough to feed the plant with an infusion of onion peels.
Fill a quarter of a ten-liter bucket with onion peels. Heat the water to 90 degrees (do not boil) and pour in the husks until the bucket is full. Place the bucket in the shade for a day.
The contents must be constantly stirred. For example, you are walking along the path, you see a bucket - stir it. Sit down in the shade to rest - stir. When a day has passed, squeeze out the husks and place them in the cucumber holes. Pour a liter of infusion into another bucket and add water to it at the temperature of fresh milk. Water not only the holes, but also the entire ridge with the crop. Carry out this procedure once a week. In addition, a diluted infusion saves plants from diseases. If you see that the plant is sick, pour diluted water on it. However, you can water the bushes with this infusion to prevent diseases.
Cucumbers need moisture and warmth. Water the plants only with warm water. On a sunny day, containers with water are heated by the sun; when there is no sun, the water should be heated. Cold water promotes the appearance of hook-shaped greens and the fruits become bitter.
To increase humidity in greenhouses and greenhouses, place containers with water. In hot weather, you can water the paths between the ridges. Constantly cover the roots exposed after watering with soil.
Monitor the temperature. Do not allow the temperature to fall below fourteen degrees. If the temperature has dropped, put heaters or guns there. And on hot days, open doors, windows, remove frames or film from the greenhouse. Closer to autumn, when the nights become cool, return the film and frames to their place. Close windows and doors in greenhouses at night.
You need to think about getting a good harvest even when planting cucumbers. Because you can plant the seeds at three-week intervals. When some plants bear fruit, others will still delight you with cucumbers.
With the help of such simple work, you can get a good harvest of sweet cucumbers even in mid-September.
A simple and accessible secret to growing a large harvest of CUCUMBERS.
The cucumber ovary grows very quickly, about a week. This means that if dozens of ovaries are ripening on a plot at the same time, and when you remove them, the next ones begin to ripen, then such a plot consumes a lot of food.
If you don’t feed it, the initial supply of fertilizer in the soil will run out, and “crooked” cucumbers will grow: an imbalance of nutrients affects the shape of the fruit.
The secret of feeding cucumbers:
To get a rich harvest of cucumbers, you need to feed them regularly! Bread starter is the best fertilizer. It's very easy to prepare! Fill the bucket 2/3 full with brown bread crusts, add water and press down with something heavy so that the contents do not float. We place the bucket for fermentation in a warm place for a week. We dilute the resulting starter with water (1:3) and water the cucumbers at the root - 0.5 liters per bush. Cucumbers are starting to grow by leaps and bounds! Flowering and ovaries increase, cucumbers ripen faster and turn yellow less!
Cucumbers grow to be enviably beautiful, dense, juicy and fragrant!
Try it!
And more about feeding cucumbers:
To maintain the production of even greens, very little cucumber feeding is required. A brown compost mash or a greenish solution of herbal fertilizer will suffice. The more nitrogen you estimate in the fertilizing, the more it needs to be diluted. (Lots of nitrogen where feces or fresh manure have entered the feedstock).
Feed once a week at the rate of a bucket of fertilizer per square meter. You can also use a mash of ash - 0.5-1 glass per bucket of water per 2 square meters.
Abundant flowering in cucumber beds without fruit set is quite common in the plots of amateur gardeners and extremely rare among farmers
Barren flowers are male flowers, without them it is also impossible to set cucumber fruits. If the ratio is clearly in favor of “men”, the harvest will be in question. Things are not always as bad as they seem. Only male flowers are formed first at the lower nodes of the main stem, then there is an alternation of male, female and mixed flowers.
But in the early stages, the plant does not have enough strength to preserve the female flowers, and they fall off. Therefore, gardeners get the impression that the crop is dying. Many people use treatments with Bud, ash, and attract pollinators to save the crop. However, often such “rescue” occurs without human intervention.
Sowing with fresh seeds (first year of storage);
. Seeds that are not heated before sowing;
. High ambient temperature;
. Sowing in shaded areas;
. Strong thickening;
. Imbalance of nutrition - a large dose of nitrogen fertilizers or manure has been added, but superphosphate and potassium have not been added;
. Severe waterlogging of the soil.
For sowing cucumbers, it is best to take seeds with a shelf life of 2-4 years. Plants grown from such seeds will be more productive, since they form a large number of female flowers earlier.
You can also carefully “age” the seeds in a dryer or oven at a temperature of 50-60°C for two hours.
There are drugs (Novosil, Zircon) that increase plant productivity if the seeds are soaked in them before sowing.
Cucumber responds well to organic fertilizers with the addition of superphosphate to the rows before sowing and planting (4-5 g/1 running meter of row). When many barren flowers appear, you should pinch the top of the main stem. This promotes the development of lateral lashes, and more female flowers are formed on them. In early-ripening varieties, pinch the main stem after the sixth leaf, and in late-ripening varieties, after the eighth leaf.
One of the main reasons for the delay in the appearance of female flowers is watering with cold water. The water temperature when watering should not be lower than 25°C.
If there are a large number of barren flowers, as soon as the beds with cucumbers dry out, the plants begin to try to escape by producing abundant offspring, bearing cucumbers en masse. In such cases, it is necessary to prevent a lack of water: it can lead to crop loss.
In growing cucumbers, everything depends on the development of the plants. High soil moisture is necessary in the first period of the growing season - before flowering and during intensive fruit growth. During the flowering phase, watering should be temporarily stopped. This promotes an increase in the number of female flowers produced. The introduction of moisture into the beds is resumed at the beginning of fruiting.
If the weather is very hot, then water the cucumbers twice a day - in the morning and in the afternoon in small doses. If the weather is cloudy and the air temperature is below 15°C, you should refrain from watering.
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Probably every gardener dreams that his harvest of cucumbers will be incredibly large and last as long as possible. I am a novice gardener who is ready to make every effort to ensure that his plot has a good harvest. Well, no matter how hard I try, things still happen, so not everything makes me happy. And so, when I once again encountered a small harvest of cucumbers, I therefore came to the conclusion that it was necessary to consult with more experienced gardeners and learn their secrets. And so, in general, I went to my aunt, who, by the way, always harvests a good harvest of cucumbers, and I learned the secret method.
There is probably no gardener who does not grow cucumbers; when the moment comes that the entire harvest has already been harvested, the understanding comes that this is all and there will be no more juicy fruits, and the desire to extend this summer period appears. After all, cucumber is a symbol of summer, and when summer ends you don’t want to let it go. That is why if you use a secret method, you can achieve a good harvest even when you should not expect it. To get a harvest even after the active growth period has passed, you need to use some secrets and tricks. My aunt told me an unusual secret that helps extend the growth period of cucumbers using regular fertilizing.
In order to achieve good yields, it is necessary to feed them with additional microelements during the period when cucumbers are fruiting, special attention should be paid to phosphorus. After I learned the secret, every now and then I feed the plants during watering with a special superphosphate feed.
There is no need to think that superphosphate is harmful; in fact, it does not contribute in any way to increasing the acidity of the soil, but on the contrary, it is very important. Many gardeners are sure that the use of superphosphate causes the soil to become acidic and this causes cucumbers to stop growing well. This doesn't actually happen. Superphosphate must be carefully applied under the cucumbers. This type of fertilizer is well dispersed and absorbed throughout the plant. Only 40 g of superphosphate per square meter is needed.
If you are a responsible gardener who constantly feeds your plants, then superphosphate will definitely be already in the soil; in this case, you will also need to add potassium nitrate. This type of fertilizer contains 44% potassium oxide and as much as 14% nitrogen. Nitre itself acts as an assistant during the period when the formation of cucumbers is carried out. If you use potassium nitrate in dry form, you will need 25 g per square meter.
If you use saltpeter as a fertilizer, remember that cucumbers do not grow in acidic soil, so it is necessary to dilute it with lime or dolomite flour.
If you use these secret techniques on your plot, you can increase the growth period of cucumbers and harvest even in the fall.
Proper care and care for cucumbers helps the plants develop well and bear fruit. That is why every self-respecting gardener should be very attentive to this plant and show all the necessary care and affection for it. Do not lose sight of the external condition of the cucumber if you begin to notice that the plant is experiencing a lack of water or spots have appeared on the leaves, and these, in turn, are not entirely characteristic of plants. It is necessary to monitor the condition very carefully. The soil must contain all the necessary macro and microelements that promote growth and development.
With the right agricultural technology, cucumbers are able to bear fruit right up to frost, but often the last harvests are harvested much earlier. To ensure that the life of the plant is not interrupted prematurely, you must strictly follow all the rules for growing it, but there are also some tricks that allow you to extend fruiting for a couple of weeks.
First of all, to create conditions for long-term fruiting, one should not forget about those moments without which cucumbers will not produce a normal harvest at all.
To make cucumbers comfortable, they must be planted in a place protected from the winds. The bed must be well fertilized, and the sowing of seeds or planting of seedlings must be carried out on time. Cucumbers are planted in open ground only at the onset of real summer, before - only under film covers. In order for cucumbers to bear fruit until autumn, you can plant them in several stages with an interval of 2 weeks; this applies to both open ground and greenhouses.
Even in open ground, cucumbers are usually planted first under a film.
The earliest varieties are planted first, from which long-term fruiting is most often not to be expected. Mid-season cucumbers are suitable for both canning and fresh consumption. And planting late-ripening varieties, such as Phoenix, at a later date will allow harvesting in unprotected soil right up to frost.
When choosing late varieties, it is better to choose self-pollinating hybrids, since the flight of insects decreases in September.
Plantings should not be thickened. Every 2 weeks, cucumbers must be fed using diluted infusions of mullein or bird droppings. If a cessation of growth and yellowing of leaves is noticed, foliar fertilizing with urea is useful. Water the cucumbers only with warm water and only at the root, soaking the soil to at least 15 cm, and then mulch.
It is best to grow cucumbers in a vertical culture; Most varieties require mandatory bush formation. Fruits must be removed at least 2 times a week, avoiding leaving overgrown specimens on the vines.
Cucumbers left to grow on their seeds sharply inhibit the growth of new greens and cause aging of the bush
When the air temperature drops below 12 o C, the construction of shelters is mandatory, for which arcs are arranged in advance. It is useful to use warm beds based on vermicompost for cucumbers. Low temperatures are especially dangerous in August-September. They cause fungal diseases such as powdery mildew or downy mildew. We must begin to fight diseases immediately.
In addition to compliance with agricultural technology, it is worth considering the following:
All these measures apply to greenhouse cultivation, but there are fewer problems with cold weather, and more with diseases. In greenhouses, you should immediately pick off the leaves as they begin to dry out. It is better to eliminate wilting plants as soon as possible. On healthy ones, thin shoots are cut off in August, as well as fruit-bearing shoots located in the lower part of the bush. Preventive spraying of bushes with Fitosporin or onion peel infusion is useful.
There are no such radical measures that would allow cucumbers to bear fruit twice as long as natural, but extending the fruit harvest by 2-3 weeks is quite possible. To do this, you just need to follow all the rules of growing and monitor the plants almost daily.
