I used windows with optimal thermal characteristics with a four-chamber window profile and a double-glazed unit, as well as a reinforced entrance door. By the way, it was the door that made up almost half of the cost of the order. And the total costs amounted to 40 thousand rubles for the set and another 4.5 thousand rubles for delivery. How to buy windows at the same price is at the end of the article.
Let's get started!
2. We have a newly built aerated concrete house, in which we need to install 8 windows and one entrance door. First of all, we take all dimensions from the openings. As you remember, I made overhead quarters around the perimeter of the openings on three sides (a quarter is not needed at the bottom - the window sill will be there). For the quarters, I used standard 5 cm thick aerated concrete blocks, which were installed, like the rest of the masonry, on polyurethane foam. The recess of windows during installation should be at least 1/3 of the wall thickness. It is also worth noting that you should not try to make openings to fit standard window sizes - the technology for their production is automated and there is no difference in cost between a standard size or a custom-made window. We calculate the final window dimensions taking into account the following factors. On the side and top from the frame to the wall there should be a gap of 1 to 2 centimeters on each side, which will be filled with polyurethane foam. At the bottom of all windows from the factory there is a 3-centimeter high stand profile, which is needed for convenient installation of the window sill. Plus, under the delivery profile there should also be a gap of about 1 centimeter for the mounting foam. In total, roughly speaking, you need to subtract 4 centimeters horizontally and 6 centimeters vertically from the internal dimensions of the opening. You shouldn’t get too carried away and push the frame into the opening without a gap, because... It will be extremely inconvenient to pour polyurethane foam into a gap of less than 5 mm.
3. It is important to know that opening sections greatly increase the cost of the construction of any window. Therefore, if the goal is to save money, you need to make the most of fixed, non-opening windows. In the case of a country one-story house, there is no problem going outside to wash the windows, and for ventilation you can make an opening transom (due to the design features, it is several times cheaper than a tilt-and-turn mechanism, but its width should be significantly greater than its height, or rather, its height cannot exceed 50 centimeters). The advantage of the blind section is also that you do not lose any useful glazing area. In my case, there are 5 blind windows measuring 60x60 cm, two blind panoramic windows 1.4x1.7 meters, one tilt-and-turn window 0.6x1.3 meters and an entrance door with partial glazing 0.9x2.3 meters. The above price includes the windows and door only (including hinges, handles and locks). Separately, I needed to purchase anchor plates, dowels, self-tapping screws, PSUL sealing tape, polyurethane foam, window sills and ebbs for a total of 3.5 thousand rubles.
4. We will need: a screwdriver with a concrete drill, polyurethane foam with a gun, PSUL tape, fastening plates, dowels for aerated concrete and self-tapping screws. Also, the bubble level was not included in the frame. Once again I want to draw your attention to the fact that you cannot skimp on measuring instruments.
5. There are two ways to secure the window frame: through fastening with unpacking of double-glazed windows and using anchor plates. The first method requires more time and skills. In particular, you will need to carefully remove the glass unit from the frame and then install it in place. The glazing beads that hold it are usually fixed very firmly and in order not to scratch the edges you will need a special spatula and patience. Plus, if we are talking about installation with two hands, then with large windows the problem will be that the removed glass unit cannot be tilted, unlike the frame in which it is installed. In addition, through-mounting requires precise fixation when drilling and an assistant will definitely be required. Installation is much easier using mounting plates. Each such plate costs 10 rubles. They need to be installed at the rate of 1 plate for every 50 centimeters. The plate is installed by turning it in the groove of the frame and fixed using a self-tapping screw with a drill (to drill the metal frame inside the frame).
6. After this, PSUL tape is glued to the outside of the frame on all sides except the base - a pre-compressed sealing tape. It is used when installing a window in an opening with quarters. The purpose of the tape is to protect the polyurethane foam from ultraviolet radiation and, consequently, destruction. In the cold season, it is easier to install windows, because... the tape expands very slowly in the cold.
7. A six-meter roll of PSUL tape costs 140 rubles. When fixing the tape on the outside of the frame, it is preferable to step back 1-1.5 cm from the edge, especially if you have deep quarters. This should be done so that when pouring polyurethane foam between the frame and the wall, it does not get on the PSUL tape.
8. Now we move on to the window opening. Its geometric dimensions are ideal, and its base perfectly matches the horizon. This happens naturally when building with aerated concrete if you follow the technology and level each next row of masonry to zero. I started the installation with small blind windows and they differ from the others in that they will not have window sills. Therefore, we will not use the stand profile. To support the frame on the base of the opening I use a piece of laminate 7 mm thick.
9. Place the window and mark the location for the mounting holes. We drill and install special screw dowels for aerated concrete. It is worth paying special attention that you should not try to hammer them in with one blow, especially if they are located close to the edge of the block - there is a risk of breaking off a piece of the block. After this, we insert self-tapping screws through the mounting plates.
10. Our next task is to install the side window vertically. In the case of small windows this will not be difficult, because... there will be no skewing of the window diagonally and it is enough to take measurements at any point of the frame. After this, we tighten the screws on the fastening plates and remove the piece of laminate at the base. Any window must be fixed so firmly that it can be held in the opening solely by the mounting plates. Polyurethane foam is used primarily for filling voids and thermal insulation, and not for mechanically fixing the frame in the opening.
11. You will have to tinker with large windows. Each one weighs more than 80 kilograms and will not be easy to lift into the opening alone. I built a staircase from blocks and gradually raised the window 5 centimeters upward. I used 9 mounting plates for each window. 3 on each side, except the bottom. Here you need to pay closer attention to the verticality of the frame and apply a level in all corners. On large windows, there is a support profile at the bottom into which the window sill will be installed. Directly below the support profile I also placed a laminate plate, which was removed immediately after fixing the anchor plates to the wall.
12. The tilt-and-turn window is 2 times smaller in size, but for it I decided to use 8 anchor plates, because an open sash will add load to the frame. On average, it takes about 30 minutes to install one window. And a very serious mistake that most people make is that the protective film from the frame must be removed immediately after installation. Even if you installed the windows at the beginning of the renovation, the film must be removed immediately. If this is not done, then it will be more difficult to tear it off, and the plastic will burn out unevenly (this is important for the outside of the frame).
13. Move to the front door. This is a reinforced door with 3 hinges with a full frame around the perimeter. Opening inward is much more convenient than opening outward. But most people have a stereotype that the door should be opened outwards. When installing a door frame, the most important thing is to ensure an even fit around the perimeter. I used 10 anchor plates to secure the door. Particular attention should be paid to the verticality of the side walls of the door frame in two planes. For reliability, the fixation of each anchor plate can be supplemented with a second self-tapping screw. As with windows, the door should be fully functional when held in place only by anchor plates. It should not warp when opened and it should fit snugly around the perimeter when closed.
14. Now we take a gun with polyurethane foam. The presence of a pistol is mandatory because it allows you to regulate the volume of foam output. There are nuances with foam that you definitely need to know. First, the foam is afraid of ultraviolet radiation and must be protected from sunlight. For this purpose, there is PSUL tape on the outside of the window; on the inside, it is necessary to plaster the slopes or, as an option, paint over it. As for applying foam, it absolutely cannot be trimmed. The shell that has formed on it protects the internal open cellular structure from moisture absorption and subsequent destruction. Therefore, the seam between the frame and the wall should be filled exactly to the extent that the excess does not protrude outward. It is important not to overdo it with deepening the gun nozzle, because... do not forget that on the outside we have PSUL tape and it should not come into contact with fresh foam. Approximately 5-10 minutes after filling the seams with foam, you should visually check its condition and, if necessary, carefully compact it (before it hardens, this is easy to do). If work is carried out at temperatures below +5 degrees, it is imperative to use special winter foam.
15. Next, install the fittings and check how the windows open. If the window opens poorly or jams, this is a sign that errors were made when installing the window. Most likely, the frame is not strictly vertical in all corners. This can be corrected by adjusting the hinges and lock.
16. Done! The windows and door should be left for a day until the foam completely hardens. And we move on to the finishing stage.
17. Take plastic window sills 20 centimeters deep. In total, I need 3 window sills: two 140 cm and one 70 cm. A finished window sill 150 cm long cost me only 200 rubles. We cut off the excess using a jigsaw and install it under the frame in the stand profile. It is worth keeping in mind that the depth of the window sills into the frame is 2 centimeters; this is important when choosing the depth. Before installation, do not forget to remove the protective film around the perimeter. We install the window sill either strictly horizontally or with a slight (1 degree) slope from the window.
18. We cover the edges with special plates, which should be glued with superglue. As a support when setting the level, you can use a trim from the window sill itself or a wooden block. After this, we weigh the window sill from above so that the mounting foam does not lift it up. And fill the entire plane of the base with foam from below. Just as with window frames, you should control the expansion of the foam and prevent it from having to be cut with a knife. Just tamp it down until it hardens.
19. The final chord is the installation of low tides. We cut it to length, fix it to the window frame using self-tapping screws (after having coated the joint with silicone sealant), fill the base with polyurethane foam and load it.
20. Done! Don’t forget to remove the protective film from the frames, window sills and ebbs. There is nothing complicated about installing windows and you can handle this amount of work alone. By doing this work with my own hands, I saved more than 15 thousand rubles on installation.
Now comes the fun part. The Chertanovo office of the Okna Rosta company decided that there should be a discount on windows not only for me, but for all readers of my blog. Therefore, we made an exclusive promotion for ordering plastic windows. The minimum discount of 33% is relevant for everyone who is ready to independently measure and install plastic windows.
All the details are here -
Today, PVC windows have become very common, and along with them, those companies that install them have gained wide popularity.
However, installing PVC windows with your own hands does not present any particular difficulties, so you should not be afraid of such work.
The whole process consists of several actions that require a sequence of execution:
It must be said that many of these stages are preparatory, so the whole process can be divided into the following types of work:
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Before purchasing a product, you should carefully measure its required parameters. In this case, you need to take into account one characteristic of the opening:
A quarter is a special detail of a block, concrete or other structure, which serves to reduce heat loss.
If there is no quarter, then the window is made 5 cm shorter in length and 3 cm shorter in width. This is explained by the fact that in this case it is necessary to leave gaps - 1.5 cm on each side, and 3.5 cm at the bottom for the window sill.
It must also be said that in various documentation (standards) there are 2 cm, not 1.5 cm.
As for the opening that has a quarter, then PVC windows are ordered into it, which are 3 cm wider than the width of the opening itself. But the length in this case should remain the same.
In order for all measurements to be correct and the window to fit in the future, they must be carried out at the narrowest point.
There are subtleties when choosing the size of the ebb and window sill. In most cases, windows are installed by removing them a third deep into the opening, that is, not in the center. However, installing windows yourself allows you to make a choice in this regard. Accordingly, the window sill is chosen based on the result obtained.
You just need to say that both ebb and window sills should be 5 cm larger than what was obtained as a result of the measurements.
As for the width of the window sill, it should overlap the window on each side by 2 cm. When calculating, the minimum margin can be considered 8 cm, but it is better to make 15 cm, so that later these cutouts can be redone if the first attempt is unsuccessful.
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So, when all the calculations are completed and the dimensions of all components are known, you can begin to prepare the place where the product will be installed.
First you need to start removing the old window. This can be done in various ways. If you are dealing with an old wooden window, then it is better to do this:
Why do you need to remove glass? The fact is that old windows were very often simply nailed to the window sill through the frame. During the process of dismantling the fixed window, the glass could simply crack and fall out of its place, which is unsafe. After the old window frame is dismantled, the entire niche must be cleaned of dirt, dust and paint residues.
It should be noted: foam adheres best to fresh wood, so the old layer must be removed, which can be done with a plane, sandpaper or a grinder with a grinding wheel.
Of course, this should only be done in wooden niches.
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It must be said right away that some professional workers who have already installed more than a dozen PVC windows with their own hands do this without disassembling them. As for independent work, it is better to adhere to the following recommendations.
It is necessary to free the frame from the sashes. To do this, remove the pin, which is located in the upper loop. It can be removed with pliers and a screwdriver by carefully picking it up and pushing it out. After removing the pin, the sash can be easily removed from the bottom hinge. If the window does not have sashes, then it is necessary to remove the glass from it, which can be done by removing all the glazing beads. You can use a knife or spatula for this. It is inserted into the gap between it and the frame and moved to the side with a smooth movement.
It must be said that such procedures need to be performed only in the case of large products. If it is possible not to violate the integrity of the new window, then it is better not to do this.
It is necessary to remove the protective film from the outside of the frame so that there are no difficulties with this later.
Then you need to apply markings, that is, mark the places where the product is attached to the niche, regardless of which method is chosen (we will talk about them a little further). It is recommended to adhere to a step of 0.4 m. The minimum distance from the attachment point to the corner should be at least 15 cm.
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It must be said right away that the choice of method should not be based on such product parameters as the number of sashes and chambers in a double-glazed window. The installation method should be chosen based on the dimensions of the product and depend only on the material from which the walls are made.
So, installation of PVC windows can be carried out in one of two ways:
Anchors and dowels secure the frame to the wall. In this case, in the case of both anchor bolts and dowels, holes of appropriate sizes are drilled.
Installation using these fasteners is good when it comes to concrete, block or brick walls.
As for fastening reinforcement, it is usually used in the case of wooden walls. But it should be noted that this is an optional rule.
The bottom line is that the plates are pressed into the profile and installed against the wall. Such plates themselves are attached using ordinary self-tapping screws.
If you want to install the plates on brick or concrete walls, then it is best to first cut openings of appropriate sizes in them. This will help avoid unnecessary work associated with subsequent leveling of slopes.
Very often, builders use both methods at once when installing windows, which is also acceptable.
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Window installation begins with the prepared frame or the entire window being inserted into the niche. Before this, it is necessary to lay bars or plastic corners around the entire perimeter. They will help ensure the required minimum clearance.
The frame is aligned vertically and horizontally, as well as relative to the center of the niche. This is easy to do by moving these very corners.
Spacer wedges or angles are best placed under the frame mounting points.
This will give it additional rigidity and thereby protect it from deformation at the time of fastening.
Since the installation of PVC windows may differ in the fastening devices used, the installation technology will also be different. And the differences begin with the next step:
After preliminary installation, you need to check the verticality and horizontality of the installed frame again. This can be done using a conventional construction hydraulic level or a plumb line.
After checking, the frame is completely secured. At the same time, the anchors are not tightened too much. The final tightening time is determined by the moment when the head of the anchor is aligned with the plane of the frame. Some builders even recommend leaving 1 mm.
Then you should attach all the window parts dismantled at the preparatory stage, that is, glass or sashes. After installation they should be adjusted.
All gaps between the window and the opening are filled with foam. A situation often arises when the window is so smaller than the opening that there is a gap between them that is larger than necessary. If this gap does not exceed 4 cm, then it can be completely filled with polyurethane foam. If the gap is from 4 to 7 cm, then it is recommended to fill it with polystyrene foam, securing it with polyurethane foam.
When the gap is more than 7 cm (except as specified below), it is required to fill it with boards, bricks or other similar materials. Cement mortar will also work.
The ebb is installed on foam. Additionally, it is attached with self-tapping screws to this profile, if it was used, or to wooden blocks.
The ebb tide is installed with an inclination away from the window.
After the foam has dried, you can begin installing the window sill. It starts under the “clover” by 2 cm. It must be said that window sills are not installed strictly horizontally. This is done to prevent moisture from accumulating on their surface. In order to create a slope of the window sill, it is also installed on polyurethane foam.
After all installation steps have been completed, the window should not be touched for another 16-20 hours. This is necessary in order not to violate the integrity of all gaps, that is, not to displace the product relative to its original position.
Good afternoon everyone!
Knowledge is power, you can’t argue with that.
An acquaintance recently contacted me asking whether it was possible to install windows himself.
He decided to build a country house on his own, to occupy himself, so to speak, after retirement, and is preparing an information base regarding each stage.
And I, as a window specialist, came in handy. I outlined a brief action plan for him, and decided to consider all the issues in detail on my blog.
Find all the principles and nuances of installing window structures further in the text.
Installing plastic windows with your own hands is not as complicated as it seems at first glance.
However, in order to properly install a plastic window, you need to know some things that you cannot do without.
We present to your attention instructions for installing plastic windows yourself.
The installation sequence of a plastic window consists of the following steps:
The last point can be performed at the end of all work if you are building a private house or cottage.
If you live in an apartment, then installation of the drip tide must be done after installing windows without double-glazed windows.
To do this, before installing the window, the glazing beads are removed (a screwdriver is slipped between the glazing bead and the rubber gasket, and with light blows knocks the glazing bead out of the groove), and then the double-glazed windows are removed.
This makes it easy to level and install the drip pan through the window.
Before installing the window, a stand profile is installed.
It’s as easy as shelling pears: lay the profile in the right place, align it horizontally and foam it.
But before foaming, it is better to place a window on the profile and see if it fits normally into the remaining space.
If there is too much free space at the top, then something should be placed under the profile.
It is better to insert the stand profile directly into the bottom groove of the window.
If the profile is not provided in the package, then you need to place blocks under the window to the height of the window sill in order to secure the window sill under the lower groove of the window. When the installation of the stand profile is completed, we proceed to install the window.
First, you need to attach the fasteners to the window that will hold it in place. It is best to use flat anchor plates. They should be located perpendicular to the plane of the window at a distance of 10-20 cm from the corners of the frame on each side.
Fastening to the window is done with a metal self-tapping screw about 10 cm long (1 self-tapping screw is screwed into the dowel at the end of the anchor plate into the frame from the outside, the second at the other end of the plate into the wall and also into the dowel).
If you are inserting a plastic window without double-glazed windows (with empty frames), then the fastening screws are screwed from the inside of the frame into the wall using dowels, but not completely, so as not to damage the frame structure.
For the dowel, you first need to drill a hole. When the anchors are fixed in the window, insert it into the window opening and align it.
After this, in the future places where the anchor fasteners are attached to the wall, we punch holes under the entire fastener plate, so that we can then cover the entire fastener with mortar and level the wall for installing the slopes.
After fixing the plastic window in the opening, check its vertical and horizontal positions again. Therefore, you should not immediately screw the screws into the opening completely.
It is better to do the leveling work together, so that one person holds the window, and the second places the bars for leveling. We proceed to filling the space between the window opening and the plastic window with polyurethane foam.
The main thing is that the foaming is one hundred percent. If the space between the window and the opening is more than 2 cm, then you can foam in 2 stages with an interval of 2 hours.
Note!
Important! Always wet the surface with water before foaming (using a spray gun, for example). This is the only way the foam will adhere to the structure of the walls as much as possible.
If you are installing a window at temperatures below 5 degrees, then use all-season or winter foam. If the temperature is above 5 degrees, any foam will do.
The foam should dry for at least half a day. After this, it must be protected from the harmful effects of the sun's rays. This is done either with regular mortar, tile adhesive, or a protective impermeable film.
Installation of the window sill requires preliminary trimming of the excess length, since it comes with a margin in size.
A jigsaw or grinder is perfect for these purposes. Then you should move the window sill to the support profile (if there is one) and level it.
If after leveling there is a large gap between the window sill and the opening, then it is better to seal it with a solution, having first removed the window sill.
If everything is fine, then simple foaming is enough. Don't forget to put caps on the windowsill. It is advisable to cut the window sill so that it fits clearly into the opening along with the plugs. The best way to glue the plugs to the window sill is with super glue.
After leveling the window sill, you need to check it for subsidence by pressing with your hand in several places.
Helpful advice!
If everything is fine, then you can start foaming, having first pressed down the window sill with heavy objects (for example, several bottles of water) to prevent the foam from bulging upward. The next day, excess foam under the window sill can be removed with a regular knife.
By the way, you can install a window sill with a very slight slope from the window (literally 2-3 degrees), so that possible condensation does not leak between the window and the window sill.
Before installing the slopes, you need to remove excess foam around the perimeter of the frame with a knife (this should be done very carefully so as not to damage the window material). To install slopes, PVC panels are taken and cut to the required length (two for the height of the opening, the third for the width of the opening).
After vertical alignment, fastening is carried out using polyurethane foam.
And so that the foam does not push the panels away from the wall, they need to be glued to the walls with masking tape (preferably in three places). After the foam has set, you need to make the final framing at the ends of the panels. For this purpose, there is an F-shaped profile (thanks to this design, it is inserted between the wall and the plank).
The ebb tide is installed very simply: first it is inserted into the groove under the window, and then it is leveled, pressed, fastened with self-tapping screws to the stand profile and foamed.
After installing the plastic windows, the fittings are adjusted and a mosquito net is installed. Window adjustment is a separate topic that will be discussed in upcoming articles.
source: gold-cottage.ru
Installing a PVC plastic window with your own hands is not particularly difficult.
You do not need to have specific skills or special professional equipment for these actions.
Naturally, high-quality double-glazed windows made of plastic cost quite a significant amount of money, but the costs for them can be reduced if you install plastic windows yourself.
In this case, the savings will approximately range from 40 to 70 USD. (dollars) and above, on each double-glazed window installed independently.
Just in this article on our blog, DIY construction and repair, we will consider in detail the issue of installing plastic windows yourself.
At the end of the article you will also find a video on how to install plastic windows yourself according to GOST.
Installation of a plastic window - stages:
Today there are two methods of installing metal-plastic windows:
- with unpacking the window, and without such an action.
The installation method with unpacking is carried out with a preliminary process of disassembling the glass unit:
- remove glazing beads
- the glass is removed from the frame and placed in a certain place until it is installed.
After this, the frame is attached to the wall surface with dowels (through and through), and then the glazing beads and double-glazed windows are installed back. Please note that this method of installing plastic windows has a number of nuances that we will focus your attention on.
Because it was this more labor-intensive but safer method of installation (for plastic double-glazed windows) that we chose to write the article and, of course, it is also present in the video of installing plastic windows with your own hands.
Helpful advice!
When removing a double-glazed window, you must be very careful, since careless manipulations with glazing beads can lead to the formation of chips and scratches on them.
Double-glazed windows may accidentally break during the process of removing and transferring them, but if everything is done carefully, nothing terrible will happen.
If you carry out this process without unpacking, then removing the glass and glazing beads is not required, since the base is attached to the wall using fastening parts pre-installed on the outer area.
But this type of fastening is not suitable for large windows that have a large mass.
From this we conclude that using the first technology to install a window with your own hands is more simple and expedient, but enough of the theory, let’s get down to practice.
A window usually consists of several parts. These parts may be blind or be an opening flap.
Let's now look at how to remove a double-glazed window from the blind part of the window and how to properly dismantle the opening sash.
After the window has been delivered to you, before installing it, you must remove the double-glazed windows from the blind (non-opening) parts of the window.
Usually, when new glass is delivered, the glazing beads (a glazing bead is a plastic guide that directly holds the glass unit) are not hammered in completely and can be easily removed.
If, after all, the manufacturer has sunk the glazing beads completely, you need to insert a small spatula into the seam between the glazing bead and the window frame and carefully tap with a mallet (wooden hammer) directed from the center of the window to its periphery to try to dismantle the glazing beads (there are 4 of them).
After the glazing beads give way and the plastic fasteners begin to come out of the grooves, they need to be assembled, since we will need them when installing the glazing beads back.
We don’t think it’s worth reminding that everything needs to be done very carefully so as not to break the expensive double-glazed window.
It is best to carry out this operation together, since holding a double-glazed window, which on average weighs 30 kg, and doing something in parallel is not an easy task.
And one more thing, you need to store the removed double-glazed windows on a clean, hard surface, or even better, lean the double-glazed window(s) against the wall; if there are several of them, then lay a layer of a soft, clean rag between them.
In order to remove the opening sashes of a plastic window, you need to open it slightly to gain access to the hinges.
Dismantling the opening sash must begin with disassembling the top hinge.
To do this, you need to remove the spindle (the rotating shaft inside the loop), you first need to press on it from above (most likely with a screwdriver), after which part of this shaft will appear from below.
Having hooked the lower part of the spindle with pliers, we take it down accordingly.
After the upper hinge is disassembled, you need to slightly tilt the window from the horizontal axis, the lower hinge will allow you to do this, then lift the sash by approximately 5 cm.
After this, the sash will be freed from the second lower hinge. To carry out this dismantling, it would be good to call a partner who will insure you, since the masses of both sashes and double-glazed windows, as we have already noted, are on average 30 kg.
Fastening elements, in our case these are anchor bolts, are distributed along the entire perimeter starting from the edges, with the maximum distance between bolts being 700 mm and the minimum being 150 (see diagram below).
Also, the fastenings should be located near the imposts (an impost is a horizontal or vertical bar that divides the window into parts) both above and below to impart rigidity to the structure of the plastic window.
According to GOST, there are three types of fastening:
When installing PVC plastic windows with our own hands according to GOST, we choose the fastening method using anchor bolts. This is one of the most complex and at the same time the most durable types of fastenings, where you don’t have to think about the weight of the window.
Installing a plastic window according to GOST involves the use of special insulating materials; this is dictated by the fact that the humidity in the room is higher than outside, so some of the moisture penetrates inside the seam even with a vapor barrier tape installed.
If the outer contour of the seam is made as tight as the inner one, then moisture will gradually accumulate in the seam, which will lead to the loss of its heat-shielding qualities, therefore, when constructing assembly seams, it is always necessary to adhere to the principle that the inside is tighter than the outside.
For these purposes, PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tape) is used. If the distance between the bottom profile and the load-bearing wall is less than 40 mm, use PSUL; if this distance is more than 40 mm, then a diffusion tape with similar properties.
PSUL, like diffusion tape, is glued to the window frame; they are designed to protect the mounting foam from the effects of the external environment, as well as to allow moisture to escape from the mounting seam during the operation of plastic windows.
From all of the above, we conclude that ideally it is necessary to use diffusion tape at the bottom of the window, and PSUL on top and on the sides of the window profile.
You can see an example with diffusion tape in the video of installing a plastic window with your own hands, presented at the end of the post, and the use of PSUL is schematically presented in the diagram below.
The opening must be cleared of debris and dust. If necessary, the edges of the opening must be leveled and strengthened.
After all these procedures, it is necessary to moisten the surface of the opening with water to improve adhesion (Adhesion is the adhesion of surfaces of dissimilar solid and/or liquid bodies).
The frame of the window unit is installed in the opening; the frame should not be placed on the surface of the opening, but should be installed on load-bearing supports; for this, plastic wedges can be used.
These wedges are installed under the corner and impost joints of the frame and there must be at least three of them.
To level, apply a level to the location of the glazing bead, since the rebated part in practice is not always level, due to the fact that it could be deformed at the time of drilling.
After this, you need to take a drill with the attached level and drill holes in the window frame and then in the wall.
After this, it is necessary to insert anchor bolts into the drilled holes, but not all the way, in order to be able to level the frame.
After all the anchors have been installed in the holes, we re-check whether the frame is installed level and if everything is fine, we recess the anchor bolts and screw in the anchors, at this moment wedging occurs, and the frame is already “tightly” fixed in the window opening.
The next step in installing PVC windows with your own hands is installing the ebb. The sill can be ordered from the window manufacturer, or you can use the old one, if of course it is in good condition.
The ebb is attached to the stand profile with several self-tapping screws (see diagram).
The time has come when it is necessary to use polyurethane foam.
During the work process, the temperature of the cylinder with mounting foam should not be lower than 20 degrees C.
Therefore, in the cold season, when the temperature is below zero, it is necessary to wear special coats, both on the barrel of the applicator gun and on the cylinder itself.
Note!
Polyurethane foam is used for gaps from 10 to 60 mm, but if the width is more than 60 mm, it is recommended to reduce the window opening using a less expensive building material - for example, brick or foam plastic.
After we have installed the window frame and sill, all external work on installing a PVC window with our own hands is completed and you can return the sash and double-glazed window.
First, we install the double-glazed window.
To do this, we insert the double-glazed window into the installed frame; it would be good if your partner held the double-glazed window in this position, and at this moment you inserted the beadings onto the guides and, with gentle blows of the mallet, seated them in their places (do not forget about the plastic clamps).
Then you need to install the window sash, to do this you need to lift the sash and align the hinges, then insert the spindle from below and press them all the way (here you can also use a mallet and gentle blows).
When installing a window sill, it must be pre-cut.
Then attach it tightly to the support profile, after that we level the window sill using a level and lay down various materials.
The window sill may have a slight slope from the window to drain condensation, but under no circumstances should it sag.
After 12 hours, when the foam has hardened, the load can be removed and excess foam must be trimmed.
Helpful advice!
The weight was intended to prevent the foam from deforming the window sill during the drying process.
It is very undesirable for there to be a gap between the window sill and the frame; if there is one, it must be sealed with silicone. We must try to avoid the formation of such a gap.
The first thing you need to do when installing slopes is to attach a wooden strip to the perimeter of the window (inner perimeter of the window opening, see photo).
Fastening should be done with screws approximately 95 mm long.
The plank should not stick out from the window opening, but should, as they say, be flush.
To make the slopes even, you need to level the planks using a level.
After this, we attach the U-shaped starting profile to the outer window frame. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws, which are screwed directly into the window frame.
Slopes will be inserted into this profile, so the outer edges must be connected as carefully as possible.
The next step is to install the F-shaped profile; it is fastened with a construction stapler.
The groove of such a profile is located opposite the groove of the U-shaped profile; it is in these grooves that the slopes will be placed. In the part that is located above the window, the F-shaped groove is carefully cut off either with a knife or with iron scissors, because this groove overlaps the upper part of the window.
After the U-shaped and F-shaped profiles are installed around the entire perimeter, slopes can be inserted. If you can’t get the seams to fit exactly, you can coat them with white silicone.
source: remont-s-umom.blogspot.ru
Today I will tell you how to install 8 plastic windows and an entrance door with your own hands in one day.
To perform this work you will not need special skills or expensive equipment.
But, of course, there are many nuances that are definitely worth paying attention to. And of course there are several secrets on how to save money when ordering.
I used windows that had optimal thermal characteristics
— with a four-chamber window profile
- and double-glazed windows
— as well as a reinforced entrance door.
By the way, it was the door that made up almost half of the cost of the order.
And the total costs amounted to 40 thousand rubles for the set and another 4.5 thousand rubles for delivery. How to buy windows at the same price is at the end of the article.
1. Let's get started!
2. We have a newly built aerated concrete house, in which we need to install 8 windows and one entrance door.
First of all, we take all dimensions from the openings.
As you remember, I made overhead quarters around the perimeter of the openings on three sides (a quarter is not needed at the bottom - the window sill will be there).
For the quarters, I used standard 5 cm thick aerated concrete blocks, which were installed, like the rest of the masonry, on polyurethane foam.
The recess of windows during installation should be at least 1/3 of the wall thickness.
It is also worth noting that you should not try to make openings to fit standard window sizes - the technology for their production is automated and there is no difference in cost between a standard size or a custom-made window.
We calculate the final window dimensions taking into account the following factors. On the side and top from the frame to the wall there should be a gap of 1 to 2 centimeters on each side, which will be filled with polyurethane foam.
At the bottom of all windows from the factory there is a 3-centimeter high stand profile, which is needed for convenient installation of the window sill.
Plus, under the delivery profile there should also be a gap of about 1 centimeter for the mounting foam. In total, roughly speaking, you need to subtract 4 centimeters horizontally and 6 centimeters vertically from the internal dimensions of the opening.
You shouldn’t get too carried away and push the frame into the opening without a gap, because... It will be extremely inconvenient to pour polyurethane foam into a gap of less than 5 mm.
3. It is important to know that opening sections greatly increase the cost of the construction of any window. Therefore, if the goal is to save money, you need to make the most of fixed, non-opening windows.
In the case of a country one-story house, there is no problem going outside to wash the windows, and for ventilation you can make an opening transom (due to the design features, it is several times cheaper than a tilt-and-turn mechanism, but its width should be significantly greater than its height, or rather, its height cannot exceed 50 centimeters).
The advantage of the blind section is also that you do not lose any useful glazing area. In my case, there are 5 blind windows measuring 60x60 cm, two blind panoramic windows 1.4x1.7 meters, one tilt-and-turn window 0.6x1.3 meters and an entrance door with partial glazing 0.9x2.3 meters.
The above price includes the windows and door only (including hinges, handles and locks). Separately, I needed to purchase anchor plates, dowels, self-tapping screws, PSUL sealing tape, polyurethane foam, window sills and ebbs for a total of 3.5 thousand rubles.
4. We will need: a screwdriver with a concrete drill, polyurethane foam with a gun, PSUL tape, fastening plates, dowels for aerated concrete and self-tapping screws.
Note!
Once again I want to draw your attention to the fact that you cannot skimp on measuring instruments.
5. There are two ways to secure the window frame: through fastening with unpacking of double-glazed windows and using anchor plates.
The first method requires more time and skills.
In particular, you will need to carefully remove the glass unit from the frame and then install it in place.
The glazing beads that hold it are usually fixed very firmly and in order not to scratch the edges you will need a special spatula and patience.
Plus, if we are talking about installation with two hands, then with large windows the problem will be that the removed glass unit cannot be tilted, unlike the frame in which it is installed.
In addition, through-mounting requires precise fixation when drilling and an assistant will definitely be required. Installation is much easier using mounting plates.
Helpful advice!
Each such plate costs 10 rubles. They need to be installed at the rate of 1 plate for every 50 centimeters.
The plate is installed by turning it in the groove of the frame and fixed using a self-tapping screw with a drill (to drill the metal frame inside the frame).
6. After this, PSUL tape is glued to the outside of the frame on all sides except the base - a pre-compressed sealing tape.
It is used when installing a window in an opening with quarters.
The purpose of the tape is to protect the polyurethane foam from ultraviolet radiation and, consequently, destruction. In the cold season, it is easier to install windows, because... the tape expands very slowly in the cold.
7. A six-meter roll of PSUL tape costs 140 rubles. When fixing the tape on the outside of the frame, it is preferable to step back 1-1.5 cm from the edge, especially if you have deep quarters.
This should be done so that when pouring polyurethane foam between the frame and the wall, it does not get on the PSUL tape.
8. Now we move on to the window opening. Its geometric dimensions are ideal, and its base perfectly matches the horizon.
This happens naturally when building with aerated concrete if you follow the technology and level each next row of masonry to zero. I started the installation with small blind windows and they differ from the others in that they will not have window sills. Therefore, we will not use the stand profile.
9. Place the window and mark the location for the mounting holes. We drill and install special screw dowels for aerated concrete.
It is worth paying special attention that you should not try to hammer them in with one blow, especially if they are located close to the edge of the block - there is a risk of breaking off a piece of the block. After this, we insert self-tapping screws through the mounting plates.
10. Our next task is to install the window strictly vertically.
In the case of small windows this will not be difficult, because... there will be no skewing of the window diagonally and it is enough to take measurements at any point of the frame. After this, we tighten the screws on the fastening plates and remove the piece of laminate at the base.
Note!
Any window must be fixed so firmly that it can be held in the opening solely by the mounting plates.
Polyurethane foam is used primarily for filling voids and thermal insulation, and not for mechanically fixing the frame in the opening.
11. You will have to tinker with large windows. Each one weighs more than 80 kilograms and will not be easy to lift into the opening alone.
I built a staircase from blocks and gradually raised the window 5 centimeters upward.
3 on each side, except the bottom.
Here you need to pay closer attention to the verticality of the frame and apply a level in all corners.
On large windows, there is a support profile at the bottom into which the window sill will be installed.
Directly below the support profile I also placed a laminate plate, which was removed immediately after fixing the anchor plates to the wall.
12. The tilt-and-turn window is 2 times smaller in size, but for it I decided to use 8 anchor plates, because an open sash will add load to the frame.
On average, it takes about 30 minutes to install one window. And a very serious mistake that most people make is that the protective film from the frame must be removed immediately after installation.
Helpful advice!
Even if you installed the windows at the beginning of the renovation, the film must be removed immediately.
If this is not done, then it will be more difficult to tear it off, and the plastic will burn out unevenly (this is important for the outside of the frame).
13. Move to the front door. This is a reinforced door with 3 hinges with a full frame around the perimeter. Opening inward is much more convenient than opening outward.
But most people have a stereotype that the door should be opened outwards. When installing a door frame, the most important thing is to ensure an even fit around the perimeter.
I used 10 anchor plates to secure the door. Particular attention should be paid to the verticality of the side walls of the door frame in two planes.
For reliability, the fixation of each anchor plate can be supplemented with a second self-tapping screw. As with windows, the door should be fully functional when held in place only by anchor plates.
It should not warp when opened and it should fit snugly around the perimeter when closed.
14. Now we take a gun with polyurethane foam. The presence of a pistol is mandatory because it allows you to regulate the volume of foam output.
Helpful advice!
There are nuances with foam that you definitely need to know.
First, the foam is afraid of ultraviolet radiation and must be protected from sunlight. For this purpose, there is PSUL tape on the outside of the window; on the inside, it is necessary to plaster the slopes or, as an option, paint over it. As for applying foam, it absolutely cannot be trimmed.
The shell that has formed on it protects the internal open cellular structure from moisture absorption and subsequent destruction. Therefore, the seam between the frame and the wall should be filled exactly to the extent that the excess does not protrude outward.
It is important not to overdo it with deepening the gun nozzle, because... do not forget that on the outside we have PSUL tape and it should not come into contact with fresh foam.
Approximately 5-10 minutes after filling the seams with foam, you should visually check its condition and, if necessary, carefully compact it (before it hardens, this is easy to do). If work is carried out at temperatures below +5 degrees, it is imperative to use special winter foam.
Most likely, the frame is not strictly vertical in all corners. This can be corrected by adjusting the hinges and lock.
16. Done! The windows and door should be left for a day until the foam completely hardens. And we move on to the finishing stage.
17. Take plastic window sills 20 centimeters deep.
In total, I need 3 window sills: two 140 cm and one 70 cm. A finished window sill 150 cm long cost me only 200 rubles. We cut off the excess using a jigsaw and install it under the frame in the stand profile.
It is worth keeping in mind that the depth of the window sills into the frame is 2 centimeters; this is important when choosing the depth.
Note!
Before installation, do not forget to remove the protective film around the perimeter.
We install the window sill either strictly horizontally or with a slight (1 degree) slope from the window.
18. We cover the edges with special plates, which should be glued with superglue.
As a support when setting the level, you can use a trim from the window sill itself or a wooden block. After this, we weigh the window sill from above so that the mounting foam does not lift it up.
And fill the entire plane of the base with foam from below. Just as with window frames, you should control the expansion of the foam and prevent it from having to be cut with a knife. Just tamp it down until it hardens.
19. The final chord is the installation of low tides. We cut it to length, fix it to the window frame using self-tapping screws (after having coated the joint with silicone sealant), fill the base with polyurethane foam and load it.
20. Done!
Don’t forget to remove the protective film from the frames, window sills and ebbs. There is nothing complicated about installing windows and you can handle this amount of work alone.
By doing this work with my own hands, I saved more than 15 thousand rubles on installation.
To properly install a plastic window with your own hands, you need to select the necessary tools and materials, know the correct sequence of actions and not be afraid to do this work yourself. Then you can safely count on maximum service life without regard to the quality of installation.
You need to get two main dimensions: the height and width of the opening.
Measure the width of the opening along the top edge in the middle and directly at the window sill. The minimum value is taken. If there is a quarter - a protruding part on the outside of the opening - take measurements only along the inside of the opening. Additionally, measure the quarter to make sure that it will not overlap the glass unit.
Measure the height of the opening from the top to the window sill: on the right, left and in the middle, choosing a smaller value. Add to it the thickness of the window sill and the distance from it to the lower border of the opening.
We need gaps between the window block and the opening. The optimal gap on the top and sides is 20 mm, on the bottom – 35-50 mm. These values are subtracted from the obtained measurements.
The window will be of the correct shape and should be installed strictly level. Often the borders of window openings are beveled, so use a level to find a horizontal plane and mark it with a thread stretched inside the opening along the very top border. Using plumb lines, determine the vertical planes along the edges. Check that even taking into account the possible skew of the opening, the selected dimensions fit in with any gaps. After this, you can order ready-made windows.
Installation of plastic windows is allowed at any time of the year. The ideal option would be cloudy but not rainy weather in summer, late spring or early autumn.
You should prepare the following tools:
Materials you will need:
There are several fasteners on each side. The permissible maximum distance between them is 70 cm, the optimal is 40 cm. The distance from the edge is 10-15 cm, two fastenings on each side of the impost (central post of the profile) at the top and bottom, and additional fastenings between them.
Empty the room and cover the remaining furniture with plastic wrap. Place a layer of polyethylene or cardboard under the opening, but so that it does not slide entirely across the floor. For reliability, it is better to grab it with tape; you will have to walk on it with heavy objects and fragile double-glazed windows in your hands.
If you intend to install it on anchors through the profile, then dismantle all hinged sashes and double-glazed windows in blind sashes.
Remove the decorative caps on the hinges and unscrew the fixing bolts, then, carefully and evenly pulling the sash towards you, remove it and set it aside, leaning it against the wall at a slight angle.
To remove the glass unit, you need to carefully pry up the plastic beads with a spatula. First longitudinal, and then transverse. Gently squeeze the bag out from the back until an assistant can grab it by the ends.
Determine the positions where the anchors will be located and using a drill and a 10 or 16 size drill bit, drill holes in the end of the profile.
If mounted with mounting plates, there is no need to dismantle anything. It is enough to screw them at the fastening points with two self-tapping screws into the end of the window profile so that they are strictly perpendicular to the plane of the window.
Be sure to correlate the mounting position on the window with the corresponding position at the end of the window opening. As a result, anchors and dowels should not get into the seam, only into the body of the brick, cinder block or slab.
Combined fastening is allowed on the sides using anchors, and on the top and bottom using fastening plates.
Place the stand profile on the bottom end.
After dismantling the old window and slopes, there should be bare walls around the perimeter of the window opening without remnants of sealant or fastenings from the old windows. Any irregularities, protrusions of mortar or bricks extending beyond the plane of the end should be carefully chipped or cut off. The entire surface should be cleaned of dirt and dust and thoroughly primed.
A plastic window is inserted into the opening. To maintain the required dimensions of the gaps around the perimeter and level them, wooden or special plastic wedges are used. The window should be 15-20 mm away from the quarter.
Insert wedges in the corners and directly under the impost so as not to deform the profile by bending it inward.
Align the structure along three axes: vertically and horizontally in the plane of the window and verticality in a plane perpendicular to the window opening.
Mark and drill through anchor holes, opening ends, or mounting plate attachment points.
Remove the window and use a hammer drill to drill holes for anchors in the wall.
Replace the window and again level it strictly using wedges. Additionally, install wedges, but without much pressure near each fastener.
Insert the anchors and gradually tighten them, first along the top edge, then along the sides and bottom. Do not over-tighten the anchors. It is enough to bring it close to the profile and even unscrew it back a third of a turn.
The plates are bent the first time along a line parallel to the edge of the profile and the second time when in contact with the wall so that the transition section is a maximum of a third larger than the gap, but not equal to it.
Directly through the eyes on the plate, drill holes for the dowel in the wall and secure it using an impact screw or anchor.
If the window was attached to anchors through a profile, then after fastening, assemble everything in the reverse order. Insert double-glazed windows and sashes.
Check the operation of all mechanisms. Close the doors tightly. The next time you can open the window only after the polyurethane foam has completely dried, after 1-2 days.
The sequence of sealing the gap from the outside and inside:
PSUL tape is glued along the outside of the plastic window between the profile and the quarter or along the edge of the end and the window opening. Carefully pry and wrap 2 cm of protective film on the adhesive side. Insert and secure the tape to one of the bottom corners of the window. Lay the strip around the perimeter and, gradually removing the film, press the PSUL to the window. Then remove the protective film so that the strip begins to expand. The PSUL is attached from the bottom at the end.
Attach a vapor-permeable film to the inside of the window along the edge, removing the protection from the adhesive side only partially.
Fill the gap with mounting foam from bottom to top. Fill gradually 20-30 cm at a time and then take a break until the foam gains volume. Filled gaps are sealed with vapor-permeable film.
The plastic window sill snaps onto the stand profile and the end of the window profile. After this, the farthest part of the cavity under the window sill is foamed until it dries completely. The foam will press down on the window sill. Next, spacers are installed from mounting plates or plastic or wooden stops and the remaining space is foamed.
After 1-2 days, you can proceed to plastering or finishing the slopes.
When taking measurements, you need to take into account the type of opening - without a quarter or with a quarter, as well as its features and other elements in the form of a window sill and.
In the first option, you need to measure the clean opening vertically and horizontally.
In the second, measure the horizontal distance between the quarters at the narrowest point, adding another 30 mm to the resulting figure. In the vertical plane, the net distance from the lower plane of the opening to its upper quarter is measured, which determines the height of the future glazing.
In order to place an order without a quarter, you need not only to measure the net distance between the surfaces of the window opening, but also to calculate its optimal size in the following way.
To do this, subtract 50 mm from the vertical distance to obtain the required height, and 30 mm from the horizontal distance to calculate the width. These gaps allow for a 15mm layer of foam around the perimeter of the window and 35mm underneath.
To the measurements of the window sill and ebb, another 50 mm is added to allow for insertion into the wall.
As a result, before going to the store and ordering components, you need to know six sizes: the height and width of the glass unit, the length and width of the window sill, the length and width of the ebb.
The tools you will need are a standard home craftsman's set: a screwdriver, a level, a hammer drill, a set of hexagons, a jigsaw, a knife, a pencil and a tape measure.
The materials you need to purchase are: polyurethane foam, silicone, putty, screws or dowels, etc.
And, of course, the set of components for installing double-glazed windows: window profiles, handles, fasteners, window sills, ebbs, etc.
A new window, if it has opening sashes, must be securely locked before installation so that it cannot accidentally open while manipulating it. It must be closed during foaming, sealing the cracks and fixing it in the frame, otherwise its plastic ribs can be bent in a semicircle by the foam expanding during the hardening process.
Before opening its doors, it is necessary to allow all fixing and insulating mixtures to dry completely.– at least 12 hours after completion of work.
Many beginners make the mistake of thinking that by removing the protective film from its surface immediately before starting work, they are preparing it for installation.
This is not true, because this protection is needed most of all in order to avoid possible damage or contamination of the transparent coating during installation. Therefore, this tape can be removed only after all finishing work involving puttying, painting or installation of slopes.
As a rule, the window sill part has a standard length and width with the necessary margin, which is cut during the installation process to the measurements of a specific window opening. This procedure is performed using a jigsaw, grinder or hacksaw with small teeth.
Next, the already cut part is adjusted to the stand profile, simultaneously aligning it strictly to the level, using the same technology as the window system itself. It is advisable to place the plugs on the window sill so that they fit into the opening in the wall. It is better to attach them with special glue, and not rely on silicone or acrylic, which are not intended for this.
Thus, in the end, the window sill element must be installed strictly level, so that a glass full of water can be placed on it without spilling it. It should not sag or bend in any place, even with strong hand pressure.
In some cases, the window sill is mounted with a slight slope, less than 3 degrees, towards the street, which is necessary so that the condensation that appears on the glass does not accumulate, but runs down the inclined window sill to the ground.
After completing the adjustment and fixing, you can fill the gap under the window sill with foam, and while it dries, about 12 hours, so that the foam does not lift it, you need to put something on it, for example, several bottles of water.
After about a day, when the foam has completely hardened, its protruding edge is cut off with a knife.
It happens that due to the unevenness of the window sill element, after its installation a gap forms between its upper plane and the glazing frame. It must be filled with silicone, which tends to turn black with mold over time, which will undoubtedly ruin the appearance of a snow-white window.
Therefore, it is better not to hide such a defect, but to try to prevent its occurrence at the installation stage. This is done very simply - Z-shaped plates made of galvanized sheet are screwed to the plastic profile before it is fixed. In addition, such additional details make it easier to position the window sill.
The position of the valves is adjusted using hexagons located near the hinges. To do this, use either a hex bit on a screwdriver, a screwdriver or a miniature wrench. Thus, in the process of their rotation, they achieve a position for the window sashes that would allow them to easily open and close without causing harm to other elements of the system.
It is also not considered normal for a slightly open sash to close on its own or, conversely, for a closed one to open.
They must remain in a constant position. Often, during the process of opening or closing, excessive friction with the locking hardware occurs, accompanied by corresponding sounds. To get rid of this, simply unscrew the screw that secures the corresponding fittings and move it up or down by 0.5-1 cm.
Usually, ebb tides are attached at the end of all installation work. It is better to mount them right under the window, so as to prevent water from leaking into the gap between it and the frame. However, sometimes this cannot be done, and the ebb is screwed directly to its frame using small metal screws with a cross-section of 4 mm and a length of 9 mm.
The technology for installing a window with your own hands involves two operations: dismantling the old glazing and installing a new one, which in time corresponds to approximately 30-90 minutes to remove the old glazing from the opening and about 2 hours to install a new double-glazed window of medium size, that is, up to 2x2 meters.
Thus, to replace the glazing in one window opening you will need to spend from 2.5 to 3.5 hours, which is quite a bit. After all, with such a pace of work, even in one day off you can independently change the glazing in several openings.
This time will not be wasted because by doing this work with your own hands you can be confident in the quality of the installation, and in addition, you can save a lot of money because the master will require payment from 2000 to 4000 rubles for each glazed opening.
Often, when ordering from a company that also provides installation services, the price for this procedure is charged as a percentage of 10 to 40% of the cost of the double-glazed windows themselves.
There are no difficulties in installing plastic profiles on your own, since they have an almost ready-to-use, modular design that does not require the assembly of individual parts. To insert and secure it in a window opening, you do not need to have any special technical education or expensive equipment.
Please note that installation is carried out at your own responsibility. which means you need to measure, select and order all the components and materials yourself.
Accordingly, the supplier’s guarantee will only apply to the double-glazed windows and fittings, and the quality of the seams, their filling, the verticality and horizontality of all parts, as well as the actual operability of the window are solely the responsibility of the individual who installed it.
If the order was made from an installation organization, it provides a full guarantee on materials and installation quality from one to 5 years.
However, if you have at least a couple of days off, hard work and the desire to save money, you can change the glazing in your own home yourself, doing this job no worse than an entire installation team. In this case, the team means the foreman who actually installs the window profile and his assistant who gives him the tools.
Thus, when carrying out the work yourself, you just need to call someone, a relative, acquaintance or friend, for help, and in the speed of glazing you can compete with professionals, and the cost of paying someone else’s labor will be zero.
When non-professionals install a double-glazed window on their own for the first time, they often make a number of common mistakes, which, at first glance, may not be obvious and uncritical, but, ultimately, affect the service life and comfort of the window structure:
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