Nowadays, many garden flowers are grown in pots at home.
This is how gerberas are now placed on a saucer.
Indoor gerbera is a perennial. Its stems are up to 40-45 cm in height. The question that naturally arises is: how to care for it at home?
Every modern variety is hybrid gerbera, which is bred from 2 species: classic green-leaved and Jameson.
Varieties that have compact and low stems are suitable for the windowsill, these are:
Growing a crop on a windowsill is quite simple, you just need to follow agricultural techniques, and you can grow a wide variety of varieties yourself.
The soil in which the plant is sold is not always suitable for its long-term cultivation, so the gardener is faced with the question of how to replant the gerbera after purchase.
It is not recommended to add compost or fresh humus to the substrate.
Holes for drainage should be made in the prepared container, pour expanded clay onto the bottom, and then soil from 2 parts of leaf soil, and 1 part each of peat soil and sand.
After replanting, water the plant generously along the edge of the pot, so as not to get it on the foliage. Water with warm water. If water collects in the pan, drain it.
Gerbera in a pot prefers sun rays and fresh air, because of this, the room where the flowers are located needs to be ventilated more often, but make sure that there is no draft wind blowing.
The temperature in the room in summer should be +16-20°C, and in winter, when the culture is at rest, then +12-14°C.
Gerbera naturally grows in the tropics, so she tolerates heat more easily than cold. In winter, a pot with a plant can be placed on a glazed loggia with an air temperature of +12-14°C, but for a short time. It is not recommended to radically change the temperature, as this reduces the flower’s resistance.
Home gerbera loves water, water it often, but not too much, as the rhizomes may begin to rot.
Water, being careful not to get it on the leaves.
But it's even better if you pour the water into the pan, and drain the excess from it after a few minutes after the gerbera absorbs moisture. Water for irrigation should have a temperature of +20°C. In winter, water the crop less often.
Because You cannot spray the crop from a spray bottle., because moisture should not get on the leaves, you can purchase an air humidifier. It is also good to place wide basins of water near the gerbera. Or you can pour wet pebbles into the tray.
Organic matter cannot be added. Therefore, buy fertilizer Forte, Biosad or others. From April to August, the crop is fed once every 3 weeks. When the buds open, the crop is fed with a composition that has large amount of potassium.
And during rest - mixture with a lot of nitrogen. The fertilizer is heavily diluted with water to obtain a weakly concentrated solution.
The plant is replanted in autumn or winter. For transplantation, choose a container that is 2-3 cm larger in diameter.
If you decide to make the substrate yourself, then mix sand, humus, peat and turf soil in equal parts, add 2 parts of leaf soil and a little perlite.
Do not overwater the plant, otherwise the rhizomes will rot, and then the leaves and stem will begin to rot.
The plant may get gray rot. At the same time, a grayish coating is visible on the base of the foliage, peduncles, and flowers, and gradually the entire gerbera fades. If you find gray rot, then spray the plant with Fundazol, Rovral.
Powdery mildew may appear on young flowers. When the disease occurs, a whitish coating is noticeable on the petioles of the foliage. Then the plaque spreads to flowers, buds, and eventually the plant dies.
Attention! With excessive watering, the crop may become infected with late blight. If the air is too dry, spider mites may appear on the flower.
To cure a plant from diseases, spray it with Topaz or Fundazol.
With Alternaria blight, brownish spots are visible on the foliage.
Then the leaves begin to turn pale and turn yellow.
Also, with mosaic, yellowish-green spots appear, and then leaf necrosis develops.
It is best to treat gerbera with Radomil Gold.
This video once again shows how to properly care for indoor gerberas:
Despite its love for bright sun, the plant stops blooming if there is too much light. Gerbera needs no more than 12 hours of daylight. It blooms most luxuriantly from late August to November.
If a gerbera does not bloom for more than 3 months, this means that the reason is not the light, but something else. A plant may stop forming buds if it is planted in a pot that is too large for it, then the crop directs all its energy to the growth of rhizomes. If you put nitrogen under the gerbera, it will also stop flowering.
Gerbera can be propagated by seeds, dividing the bush and cuttings.
When you buy seeds, read the expiration date on the bag. The seeds remain viable for 8 months from the time of collection. It is best to sow in spring.
Step-by-step sowing instructions:
Choose a bush that is 3-4 years old. The plant should grow to several bushes. Separate one.
Plant it in a container, and in six months it will grow a rhizome.
Choose a young plant that is not yet 3 years old.
Cut off the part of its stem that has a leaf and a node. Plant the cuttings in warm and moist soil and cover with film. Don't forget to water. Within a week, new shoots will grow. Then transplant the crop into a new pot.
If you follow the correct agricultural practices when caring for the plant, it will bloom luxuriantly and not get sick. Don't water the flower too much, but do it often.
Indoor gerbera is a colorful representative of the Asteraceae (Asteraceae) family. There are more than twenty subspecies of the plant. On an industrial scale, gerbera is grown for cutting. The plant retains its decorativeness and freshness well after separation of the roots. The domestic representative of the herbaceous crop is distinguished by long, pointed leaves. A group of vegetative organs forms a rosette at the base of the plant. The long peduncle can reach more than 50 cm in height. One bud is formed on the stem. The size of a houseplant does not exceed 30 centimeters. Varieties intended for cultivation in open ground bloom from the beginning of the summer season until August. Gerbera at home can bloom inflorescences all year round with minor interruptions. After flowering, fruits appear on the plant in the form of seed pods.
Representatives of the Asteraceae family must be protected from drafts.
The location of the plant should be protected from drafts. While airing, the flowerpot should be taken out of the room. The flower needs good air circulation. Therefore, in the summer, you can take the culture out into the fresh air.
Gerbera is native to South Africa. The exotic representative prefers warm rooms. The ideal temperature for growing a decorative flower is from + 20 to + 25 degrees.
Excessive heat is also detrimental to the flower. Prolonged exposure to the scorching sun can damage the foliage and cause premature wilting of the inflorescences.
The subtropical plant develops well in conditions of high humidity. It is enough to water the crop twice a week. During the summer - as needed. It is not advisable to allow the top layer of the substrate to dry out. Stagnant water can damage the delicate roots of indoor gerberas.
The flower prefers high air humidity.
If water gets into the gerbera rosette, the plant may develop fungus or root rot. A safe way to water is through a tray. After half an hour, remove all remaining liquid. Otherwise, the gerbera roots may suffer from excess moisture. It is not recommended to water the plant with cold water.
To create a sufficient level of air humidity, you can spray the liquid on the plant. Droplets of water should fall exclusively on the leaves. To ensure the safety of the crop, you should spray the space next to the flowerpot.
You can leave a container of water near the flower or turn on a humidifier.
The optimal time to replant gerberas is the end of February. The container and soil will need to be changed annually. The flower should be removed very carefully. Gerbera has fragile roots. Therefore, you can use the method of transferring an earthen clod.
The neck of the gerbera in a new container should remain above the surface of the substrate. Otherwise, the root system may rot.
An adult plant purchased from a garden nursery requires special care. It is not recommended to replant and water the crop for two weeks. It is necessary to prepare a wide container of larger diameter in advance. For replanting you will need to use transport soil.
The nuances of changing the container and substrate can be found in the video:
In winter, natural light and heat are not enough for the plant to form buds. Fluorescent lamps can be used to increase daylight hours. The plant will prolong its decorative effect in the cold season.
In winter, it is advisable to stop feeding the plant and reduce the amount of watering. It is not recommended to allow the soil mixture to dry out.
Heating devices can damage the plant. Therefore, in the cold season, spraying should be continued according to the summer scheme.
Indoor culture does not require constant pruning. Fading inflorescences must be plucked off. Pruning the stems has a detrimental effect on the further formation of buds. It is not recommended to leave dried flowers on a gerbera. The plant will spend a lot of energy forming fruits. As a result, the growth of the crop and the production of new buds will slow down.
Indoor gerberas should be cleaned as needed.
A flowerpot with gerbera can be taken out into an open area in the summer. The place must be protected from wind, drafts, pests and scorching sun.
To grow indoor gerbera, you need to prepare loose and breathable soil. There are several options for soil mixtures:
Garden representative offices sell ready-made mixtures for indoor crops of the Asteraceae family. It should be taken into account that the optimal soil acidity level should be from 5.5 to 6.
The exotic plant can be fertilized with complex preparations for flowering indoor crops. During the period of active vegetation development, you need to fertilize once every 2 weeks. It is not advisable to use organic components.
Complex preparations for indoor plants can be used as fertilizer.
An unglazed ceramic pot is ideal for growing a flower. A high degree of breathability promotes crop development. The container volume should be about one liter.
Indoor gerbera is a fairly resistant crop to various pests and diseases. The main reason for the appearance of fungal spores is excessive watering of the soil and stagnation of liquid in the substrate. The main dangers for gerbera are powdery mildew, fusarium, late blight and gray mold.
Indoor gerbera is affected by a fungal disease.
At the initial stage, it is necessary to immediately clean the plant from damaged areas. Humidity levels should be reduced. You can increase air circulation by ventilating three times a day. Copper sulfate must be sprayed onto the plant.
As preventive measures you need:
Dry air (below 45%) promotes the appearance of aphids, spider mites, whiteflies and thrips. It is necessary to isolate the pot with the flower and treat the crop with an insecticide. For indoor gerberas, it is advisable to purchase “Fitoverm”.
It is necessary to regularly inspect the culture. In the early stages of damage, saving a gerbera is much easier. The soil and container should be thoroughly disinfected before planting.
People prone to allergic reactions to asters, dahlias, daisies, daisies, chrysanthemums, buttercups and some varieties of sunflower should avoid growing flowers at home.
The plant can cause:
It is necessary to take an antihistamine and seek help from a medical center.
Indoor gerbera can cause a severe allergic reaction.
The plant can remain decorative for 4 years. Then you will need to update the gerbera. To do this, you should choose one of the methods.
To spread indoor culture, it is necessary to prepare low pots or wooden boxes in early spring. The container should be filled with turf soil, fine-grained sand and moistened peat.
You need to carefully scatter the seeds onto the surface of the substrate. It is necessary to cover the planting material with sand in a thin layer (about 1 cm).
To evenly moisten the soil, use a spray bottle. You can create greenhouse conditions using transparent glass or polyethylene. The container must be moved to a lighted room with a temperature of about + 23 degrees.
The first shoots will appear in a week. It is necessary to remove the cover. “Greenhouse” protection will destroy small sprouts.
After the formation of three full-fledged leaves, the gerbera should be planted in a separate container. The first buds will appear in 6 months.
For breeding, you should choose a healthy indoor gerbera. During transplantation, you can divide the plant into several parts. Each segment must contain at least 3 growth points.
You will need to cut off some of the roots of the divisions. It is recommended to remove inflorescences and buds. The affected areas should be treated with crushed ash. Babies can be planted in permanent containers. The growing point should remain on the surface of the soil.
The most affordable and easiest way to reproduce. It is necessary to cut off a cutting from the mother culture. Part of the rhizome and two full leaves should remain on the stem.
Separating cuttings from indoor gerbera.
Before planting, it is necessary to thoroughly moisten the soil. The container should be kept in a warm, well-lit room during rooting.
It is very easy to achieve abundant flowering of indoor crops. The number of inflorescences depends on the solar illumination of the location of the crop. Even with abundant sunlight, buds may not form.
The main secret of gerbera is the length of daylight hours. For long-lasting lush flowering, you will need to provide the crop with access to sunlight for 12 hours. Flowering can become remontant if the indoor gerbera is illuminated with fluorescent lamps for the required time daily.
If the crop is not given rest, prolonged flowering can weaken the gerbera. In the next growing season, the flower will develop lush green foliage and will not form buds.
The further development of the plant depends on the quality of the transport substrate. You should choose a nursery that specializes in indoor crops.
A high-quality substrate is the key to successfully growing indoor gerberas.
It is necessary to carefully examine the plant. Damaged shoots, yellow leaves and signs of rotting are signs of damaged, low-quality planting material.
You can purchase an adult flower 20 cm high for 790 rubles. The average cost of seeds per package is 0.04 g. is 22 rubles.
Gerbera can only grow outdoors in warm climates. She does not like the cold and sudden changes in temperature, so the flower, beloved by many, was adapted for keeping in an apartment. If you love flowering indoor plants, then the best choice is indoor gerbera. Home care has features that you will learn about in this article.
Herbaceous perennial of the Asteraceae family. It grows wild in Madagascar and South Africa. As a houseplant, gerbera is grown for its beautiful and long-lasting flowering. In appearance it is very similar to chamomile. It differs from it in its large flowers and bright colors. There are such names of gerbera as Transvaal chamomile or daisy.
The plant is small and neat - indoor gerbera rarely grows above 30 cm. The leaves are pinnately dissected, oblong, with slight pubescence. The leaves are folded into a basal rosette. Long peduncles are rare. The inflorescences are large and bright. Flowers are simple, semi-double or double. Valued for its variety of colors. There are gerberas of all colors except blue.
Flowering begins at the end of August and ends in November. The flower rests until February, then begins to grow rapidly. After 3-4 years, it is recommended to rejuvenate the flower - a mature plant does not bloom so profusely. Gerbera flowers become smaller and the flowering period is shorter. The bush is rejuvenated by division.
Interesting! Experienced flower growers achieve almost year-round flowering of gerberas. The result is that the plant constantly pleases with beautiful flowers. Minus - after 2 years the bush is completely depleted.
More than 70 species of flowers grow in nature. Not all of them are suitable for home growing. The most popular and unpretentious are Jameson's gerbera and green-leaved gerbera. Most modern varieties have been bred on their basis. In home floriculture, low-growing varieties are used.
Advice! When purchasing a gerbera in a pot, be sure to pay attention to the variety and its characteristics. Sometimes tall varieties are treated with chemicals that inhibit growth. The plant seems miniature, blooms beautifully, and looks decorative. But without subsequent treatments, the plant quickly begins to stretch, lose its appearance, and eventually die.
For long and lush flowering, it is important to organize proper care for indoor gerberas.
Advice! It is not recommended to replant the flower within 2 weeks after purchase. It must adapt to the conditions of your apartment. After acclimatization, the plant must be replanted. The soil used in stores is a temporary substrate. The flower will not be able to grow in it for long.
Several methods of propagating gerbera are practiced. All of them are successfully used by flower growers.
The plant is not resistant to diseases and pests. Violation of the rules of care leads to various problems during the growing process.
| Disease | Description | Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|---|
| Alternaria blight | The appearance of brown spots on the leaves. The spots become lighter in the center and a black coating appears. The leaves turn yellow and dry out. | Increased humidity and temperature. Lack of nutrients. | Treated with fungicides. For example, Ridomid Gold. |
| Mosaic | Small spots of yellow or light green color. Deformation of the sheet plate. | The causative agent is the cucumber virus. Provoking factors are low temperature, humid air. | Spraying with insecticides. |
| Powdery mildew | The appearance of a gray-white coating. Spreads quickly. Leads to the death of the plant. | Fungal disease. Provoking factors are a lack of calcium in the soil, humidity above normal, heat. | Spraying with fungicides - “Topaz”, “Fundazol”. |
| Gray rot | The plant withers and becomes covered with a grayish coating. | Fungal disease. Provoking factors are dense planting, waterlogging of the soil, high humidity. | Treatment with Fundazol and Rovral. |
| Sclerotinia | Withering of the plant, the formation of depressed spots on the petioles and peduncles. | Excess organic matter in the soil, waterlogging, heat. | Stop watering and add dry soil. Treatment with systemic fungicidal preparations - “Vitaros”, “Fundazol”. |
| Late blight | Drying of leaves and flowers. | Failure to comply with agricultural technology. | Treatment with Ridomil and Previkur. |
With proper care, the likelihood of the plant being affected by the diseases described is minimal.
Gerbera (Gerbera) is a herbaceous plant of the Astrov family, which came to us from South Africa. Discovered by the Dutch scientist Jan Gronovius in 1717. Named after the German doctor Gerber. It gained particular popularity after the discovery of the species by Robert Jameson, which is now named in his honor.
There are more than seventy varieties of it in nature, but they are almost never used by gardeners. The most popular are the Jameson gerbera and the green leaf gerbera.
These species form the basis of many varieties of different sizes (mostly from 4 to 15 cm) and colors (except blue) (almost all the varieties that are grown are hybrid gerberas, bred from the Jameswana and greenleaf varieties).
Rosalin and Lancaster are Pink gerberas.
Alice, Sympathy, Mirage, Rudite - Orange gerberas.
Tamara, Elegans, Gelios - Yellow gerberas.
Gerbera Revolution is a relatively new variety - it grows quickly and blooms for a long time, bred primarily for indoor cultivation. When they say indoor gebrera, they mean low-growing varieties.
Caring for different varieties is the same, but care in general has its own difficulties, so you need to know how to care for gerberas. These flowers require bright lighting, but keep them out of direct sunlight. In spring, plants can be kept on a glassed-in balcony, and in summer they can be planted in open ground. For winter, provide additional lighting.
Flowering is directly related to lighting. Although the flower is light-loving, too much of it can interrupt flowering. These flowers need a maximum of 12 hours of daylight. That is why such abundant flowering is observed in autumn. By artificial lighting you can achieve flowering in winter. Summer is a time of calm - buds do not form, green mass is collected.
If the gerbera does not bloom, then you have gone too far with fertilizers or planted it in a larger pot than necessary and all the plant’s energy needed for flowering goes into growing large roots. The flower will grow and develop well only in warmth. The best temperature is 20-24°C.
Caring for indoor gerberas after flowering involves pulling out wilted inflorescences at the root, otherwise they will begin to rot and cause infection.
Coming to us from South Africa, this tropical guest requires constant watering. Gerbera gerberas in a pot should be watered exclusively with warm water - 20°C and no lower, otherwise disease will follow.
Be sure to spray the stems using warm water. Over-watering the soil is also harmful - the leaves below will begin to rot. Even in damp soil, harmful worms grow.
When purchasing a gerbera in a pot, remember that moving it from the greenhouse to the apartment is already stressful for the flower and therefore hold off on replanting. You should wait until adaptation takes place, which usually takes a couple of weeks.
Replanting a gerbera has its own nuances; you cannot replant during the flowering period - this disrupts the biorhythms of the flower. When replanting, choose a pot with a diameter 3 cm larger than the previous one. Prepare light soil. We recommend planting in the following soil: two parts of leaf soil, one part of peat, one part of sand.
Do not use compost and humus - they harm this plant.
In the first spring months and summer, during the stage of increasing green mass, you need to use fertilizers that include nitrogen, but remember that you need a weak solution, that is, it must be diluted with a larger amount of liquid than stated in the instructions. During flowering, fertilizers with potassium are used, but again, the fertilizer must be diluted more strongly.
As you can see, caring for gerberas at home requires care and some knowledge.
To grow gerbera from seeds at home, you need to sow them in March in pots with a substrate of peat and sand and cover them with glass, do not forget to ventilate them daily. The soil should remain moist and the temperature should be around 18°C.
When the seedlings grow and 2-3 leaves appear, they are plucked, and when there are 4-5 leaves, they are plucked again into large pots. But the seeds do not retain varietal characteristics, and the result will be heterogeneous.
To do this, you need to cut off part of the stem with a node and a leaf and plant it in warm soil (about 25°C). Within a week, the leaf takes root; it must be removed, the rhizome divided into parts and planted. This procedure is carried out between May and July.
As in the case of gerbera propagation by seeds, when using a leaf, varietal characteristics often disappear.
The most reliable way is to propagate gerberas by dividing the bush.
A three or four year old bush is divided into parts with pieces of root, and then planted.
The bushes take a long time to take root - almost six months, and begin to bloom about a year after planting. But this method certainly preserves varietal characteristics. We recommend it for propagating gerberas at home.
Why do indoor gerbera leaves turn yellow?
If gerbera leaves wither
The same answer to the question “?”
It often happens that gerbera leaves dry .
Often a disease of this flower, which leads to drying of the leaves, is fusarium .
To heal a flower, it is necessary to disinfect the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate, but do not overdo it, as an excess of the product will lead to depletion of ferum in the soil.
Quite often a white coating appears on gerbera leaves. There may also be several explanations for this.
Powdery mildew — it is determined by wiping a piece of paper. If the white dirt has gathered into a lump, and the leaf becomes clean, this is dew.
Mold - it forms a fibrous or wool-like coating. If you do not quickly cut it off and disinfect it, you may lose the plant.
White rot - This is a mushroom that forms a white fluff of grayish color. The fluff is just the beginning, and then the plant rots. The disease is spreading quickly.
If a gerbera is planted in open ground, it may become infected with aphids. Before transplanting it back into the house, be sure to treat it with an insecticide.
The flowering gerbera plant (Gerbera) is part of the Asteraceae family and includes approximately 70 species. This flower comes from the tropical and subtropical zones of Africa.
Gerbera is a herbaceous perennial plant. There is no foliage on the peduncle, and it grows up to 0.6 m in length. The leaf plates of such a plant are collected in a rosette at the root, they reach about 0.35 m in length. Large inflorescences-baskets grow one at a time and reach about 15 in diameter centimeters, they can be painted in a variety of colors. There are varieties that have semi-double inflorescences. As a rule, gerbera is cultivated in the garden, but only one species is grown at home - Jameson's gerbera (Gerbera jamesonii).
When grown indoors, gerberas need bright, diffused light. It can withstand a small amount of direct sunlight, but if in the summer the flower stands on a southern windowsill, it must be shaded. You should not choose north-facing windows, since there is very little light for gerberas there. In this regard, windows of eastern or western orientation are best suited for the flower.
In the summer, if desired, the bush can be moved outside, but at midday it must be protected from direct rays of the sun. And in order to avoid sunburn on the foliage, it should be accustomed to new conditions gradually. In the autumn-winter period, it is recommended to illuminate the plant; for this it is best to use a fluorescent lamp.
A gerbera growing in an apartment needs warmth; therefore, in the spring and summer, the air temperature in the room should be about 24 degrees, but do not allow it to be colder than 20 degrees. At the end of flowering and during the dormant period, the bush should be kept cool (about 14 degrees). At this time, the air temperature should not be lower than 12 degrees. During flowering, the difference between day and night temperatures should not be very large, because this can have an extremely negative impact on the decorativeness of the inflorescence-baskets.
During the growing season, provide the flower with moderate watering, for this you need to use warm water. Make sure that the temperature of the substrate and water is almost the same, otherwise problems may begin with the flower. The water used for irrigation must be soft and well-settled; carefully moisten the substrate only after its top layer has dried. Make sure that liquid does not get into the leaf rosette, because this may cause rot on the gerbera. During the dormant period, watering is carried out only to ensure that the lump of earth in the pot does not dry out. At this time, stagnation of moisture in the root system is especially dangerous for the flower, because this can cause it to get sick.
For normal development and growth, the plant needs high air humidity, but its foliage cannot be moistened with a spray bottle. To increase the humidity, you need to pour wet expanded clay or peat into the pan, and you can also moisten the air near the bush from a sprayer, but at the same time drops of water should not fall on the flower itself.
This plant has one characteristic feature - its flowering directly depends on the length of daylight hours. Flowering occurs at the end of summer and beginning of autumn, and at this time there is a reduction in daylight hours.
Gerbera should be fertilized only during intensive growth, and for this purpose complex mineral fertilizer for flowering indoor plants is used. The flower also responds well to feeding with magnesium sulfate. If it is in a cool place, then it needs to be additionally fed with phosphorus. In winter, fertilizing is not carried out.
Gerberas are replanted only when necessary, and this procedure is carried out in the spring. It is imperative to make a good drainage layer at the bottom of the pot, and the acidity level of the soil mixture should be pH 5.0–6.0. During transplantation, make sure that no substrate gets into the leaf rosette, and also remember that it cannot be buried in the soil mixture.
The main advantage of propagating gerbera by division is that in this case the varietal characteristics of the parent plant are preserved. A bush that is three or preferably four years old is suitable for division. This procedure is carried out in the spring. Make sure that each of the divisions has at least two growth points, in this case the young bush will begin to bloom next year.
Sowing of seeds is carried out in the spring, for this they use a loose soil mixture saturated with nutrients. To prepare a suitable substrate, you need to combine leaf, turf and humus soil (1: 2: 1). Pour a small amount of sand into the finished mixture. After the emerging seedlings have formed 2 or 3 true leaf blades, they are picked. After the plants have formed their fifth true leaf blade, they are picked again, but at the same time they are planted in individual pots. 30 days after the last picking, the plant needs to be fed for the first time.
When growing gerbera indoors, a gardener may encounter the following problems:
As mentioned above, only Jameson's gerbera (Gerbera jamesonii) is grown at home. This species became the ancestor of all varieties that are cultivated indoors. This herbaceous perennial has a rather thick stem. The foliage is collected in a rosette, which is placed slightly above the soil surface. There may be pubescence on the surface of the large feathery leaf plates; they reach a length of up to 20 centimeters. Sometimes axillary buds form at the base of the foliage. Externally, the inflorescence is similar to a chamomile flower; the basket is about 10 centimeters across and is formed at the top of the peduncle. Often, beginning flower growers believe that this is one flower, but in fact the basket is an inflorescence consisting of many flowers. Along the edge there are reed flowers, which can be painted in various colors, for example, red, yellow, white, etc. (about 30 shades in total). They can be narrow or wide, and such flowers are placed in 1, 2 or 3 rows. In the middle there are tubular flowers, which can also be painted in various shades.
