It would seem that smoking tobacco is a native Russian plant. However, it is believed that it came to Russia only during the time of Peter I and very quickly gained wide popularity. This article will discuss how to grow your own tobacco in the garden from seeds.
Smoking tobacco belongs to the nightshade family. In nature, there are many different types of this plant, but only 2 of them are suitable for smoking: shag and virgin tobacco. In the conditions of central Russia, only shag is suitable for cultivation, since it is less thermophilic. Depending on the specific region of your residence, you should choose the optimal type of shag for growing.
An important success factor is the correct timing of planting tobacco seeds. They are planted as seedlings around the end of February, so that the plant has enough time to ripen properly. The size of the seeds is very small, so before planting, they must first be mixed with sand. Containers for planting may be shallow. They should be filled with earth to a level just below the surface (1 - 1.5 cm). Seeds mixed with sand are sown directly on the surface. They need to be covered with film on top, thus constructing a mini greenhouse. To prevent shag seeds from rotting, monitor the soil moisture; it should not be overtly wet, but only slightly moist.
In order for as many shag seeds to germinate as possible, sufficient illumination and a favorable temperature are required - from +23 to +28 C. Instead of watering, it is better to spray the seedlings with a spray bottle.
You can plant seedlings in separate planting containers after they have 2 true leaves. To prevent the young plant from dying, replanting should be done as carefully as possible, trying not to damage the roots.
Grown and strengthened seedlings are transplanted into open ground at the end of May. By this time, the threat of night frosts will be minimized. A sunny, open area with oxygen-saturated light soil, on the surface of which water will not accumulate after rain or watering, is best suited. When planting, maintain a distance of 40-50 cm between adjacent bushes. To provide tobacco with the required amount of potassium, fertilize the bed with mullein and ash.
In order for the harvest to be maximum, the plants need to be trimmed. To do this, cut off about half of the flowering stalks. It is also necessary to remove emerging stepsons in a timely manner.
The lower leaves ripen first, about a month and a half after planting the seedlings in open ground. Tobacco is harvested exclusively in the evening, when its leaves contain a minimum amount of water and a maximum of carbohydrates. Ripe shag leaves turn yellow and become sticky, their central vein turns white. When torn off, such leaves make a characteristic sound resembling a click.
Planting tobacco is a crucial moment and the most important thing is to harden our seedlings before planting in open ground. To put it simply, accustom her to the open sun. To do this, a week or a week and a half before planting, we expose the boxes with tobacco to the open sun. The first day for 20-30 minutes, the second for 40-60 and so on. As a result, before planting, our crops should be in the open sun all day and not experience any stress. We monitor the moisture content of the soil in the glasses. If we do not carry out this hardening procedure, then our seedlings, when planted in open ground, can simply burn from direct ultraviolet radiation, turn yellow and dry out.
When the seedlings reach 10-15 cm and have 4-5 true leaves, they are ready to be planted in open ground. Keep an eye on the weather forecast; the main thing is that frosts do not return, otherwise our efforts may go to waste. Tobacco can withstand temperatures up to +4 degrees normally, but below that, problems may begin. Of course, we can cover our plantings, but I can’t imagine how this can be done on 2-3 acres. So it is better to wait for favorable conditions. It was not in vain that I wrote about the timing of sowing seeds, since we also do not need overgrown seedlings. Everything should be done in a timely manner and then your plantings will be pleasing to the eye.
Before we begin planting, we will need to cultivate the land (plow, dig). Then mark out the planting pattern. I plant according to the scheme: two rows aisle, two rows aisle. Those. We plant the first row, 60-70 cm between plants, then the second row, 40-50 cm between rows, in a checkerboard pattern. You can plant them in three rows, it’s just more convenient for me. Afterwards we leave a passage of 60-80cm. and so on. If someone is limited in terms of land, then the plantings can be compacted. In general, there are different planting schemes for different varieties (large-leaved varieties, small-leaved varieties), I use one scheme for all, I have enough land.
So, we have decided on the landing scheme. Next, using a garden trowel, we dig holes a little deeper than our cups and distribute the seedlings, placing them next to the holes. I also want to note that we don’t water the seedlings 2-3 days before planting, so the lump of earth will come out of the glass better and the bushes themselves will be less fragile. We take our glass with seedlings and turn it over. The stem of the seedling should be between the middle and ring fingers of the hand. Then we slowly tap on the bottom of the glass and pull it off; if the glass does not come off, you can slightly wrinkle it. Next, lower it into the hole and lightly sprinkle it with soil.
Now there is another very important point. In tobacco, the most common disease is “tobacco mosaic”, which is transmitted by sucking and gnawing insects (in particular thrips), so when planting I recommend using the drug PRESTIGE, the one from the Colorado potato beetle.
I decided to test it this year on tobacco and the result was justified. For the purity of the experiment, some of the bushes were not treated and diseased plants were noticed in this part. In the treated one, such a phenomenon was not found. Diluted 13-15 ml. prestige for 10 liters of water and 200 ml is poured into each well. The process goes like this: put the seedlings in the hole and lightly sprinkle them with soil. Pour in a liter of water, then 200 ml. diluted prestige and then again 0.5 liters of water. After the water has been absorbed, we cover it completely with earth.
It is better to bury the tobacco when planting; you can even tear off the lower leaves. As a result, it should turn out that the planted tobacco has a depression around it for better subsequent watering. If you have the opportunity, choose quiet, windless places for planting tobacco. Also, don’t forget to mark where you planted which variety. And so, we planted tobacco. Next we'll look at
In this article you will learn how to grow shag, as well as what to do with it later.
I have sown two varieties of shag, this and some local variety that has been grown for 50 years and of course no one knows the name.
Makhorka is sown
You need to take a larger container for seedlings, because... We will grow shag without picking. I took a small container because I need no more than 5 bushes of each variety. I smoke it rarely, let’s put it this way: when I want something unusual. You can sow shag seeds directly into a garden bed and cover them with cellophane, and then, when they grow up, select plants and plant them in a permanent place.
I made a slight mistake with shag, namely in that after sowing the seeds I placed the container in the greenhouse. The nights are still cool and the seeds are frozen. It was decided to bring the container into the house and after a couple of days shoots began to appear. 
All plants love warmth and our shag is no exception.
The shag seedlings are not developing very well, but I attribute this to my mistake. There was no need to immediately put the container in the greenhouse after sowing, but keep it warm at home for a couple of weeks and then such problems would not have arisen. 
Well, oh well, ten bushes will still grow, but don’t make such mistakes. In theory, the seedlings should now be 5-7 centimeters in height, but I have small suffocations. I’m thinking maybe I can put them in separate cups.
I woke up this morning and saw something. 
This slug ate all the shag seedlings. Maybe he was not alone, of course, but it’s a fact)). Of course, I wasn’t particularly upset, since shag was sown to write this article and this snail even survived with a belly full of delicious shag. The seeds have been sown anew and the article will be completed. At the same time, I’ll check how everything will ripen with such late plantings.
Newly sown shag seeds today look like this:
On the left is mopacho, an order of magnitude behind the local terry. I think in a couple of weeks it will be possible to plant them in open ground.
The makhorochka is growing, almost a month late. In a week or two, when I get to the village, I will plant it on the mainland. Now it's like this:
I thinned it out.
The makhorka has grown well in two weeks. If the snail had not eaten the seedlings, then these seedlings would have been there by the first of June. 
Once I got to the village, the shag was immediately set free. After planting, it will be watered for three days in the morning, because... The weather is hot now. Once it takes root, it won’t see any more watering.
The makhorka grew up in two weeks and should be ready by the end of August, beginning of September.
In the foreground are six bushes of local shag, in the background are seven bushes of mopacho.
Makhorka is growing rapidly, and it rains more than necessary. 
It has already started to bloom. 
Mahorka, unlike tobacco, has never given me any pain. In this regard, she is a big plus.
The makhorka is in full bloom. True, after the photo session I cut off all the flowers so that they ripen faster.
The lower leaves of the shag began to ripen. A sort of rust began to appear on the leaves. You can see it in the photo. 
When such rust appears on most of the leaves, it means the shag bushes are ripe. I will be cutting down bushes in a week and a half, two weeks. If the seeds had sprouted normally, the bushes would have already been removed.
The season has come to an end. The makhorka is ripe and the lower leaves have already begun to turn yellow. 
The bushes were cut and piled up for a couple of days. 
P.S. To summarize, I will say: growing shag, unlike tobacco, is the most unpretentious, even with such a late sowing, it ripened perfectly and I have not encountered any diseases in it. Now you know how to grow shag and you shouldn’t have any problems.
Have a delicious smoke!
If you have any questions, ask in the comments or write by email.
Regular tobacco, samosad or fragrant - all these concepts refer to one plant that is easy to grow in your own area. It is believed that the principle of growing tobacco itself is not so complicated; it is only necessary to devote more time to post-harvest processing or fermentation. But there is no need to be afraid of this either; there is nothing complicated in this work. Moreover, if you know how to grow garden crops and seal them for the winter, then you can handle tobacco fermentation just fine.
Let's first think a little and think about whether this long process of growing a self-garden is so important for you, or is it still better not to waste your personal time and buy a pack or two of cigarettes in the store? No, heavy smokers believe that the efforts are fully justified, the savings on the family budget are obvious, and they don’t spare time and effort for themselves. Moreover, the result will exceed all expectations: the product is pure and tested, there will be no chemicals or additives.
These positive aspects prove in the best possible way that it is better for a smoker to smoke a cigarette of his own tobacco than to buy a “tar” cigarette with an admixture of chemicals. Now go ahead, let's learn to grow tobacco together.
Before you begin work, you need to know that the properties of the plant will directly depend on the soil in which it grows. Tobacco adapts to any weather and climatic conditions, only the final result may differ from the original grown in the south of the country. Now it becomes clear that tobacco is a heat-loving plant. Don't worry, there are several varieties of self-gardening that adapt to soil composition and temperature.
Other things to consider before boarding:
It is difficult to say how many centuries ago humanity discovered the properties of tobacco and the fact that this plant can be smoked. Peru and Bolivia are considered to be the birthplace of the plant. But Europe is indebted to Columbus for bringing this plant and teaching Europeans to smoke.
Currently, this crop is widely cultivated in India, China and North America. In Russia, or rather in the former USSR, it was also customary to grow tobacco in plantations in countries with a warm climate: Moldova, Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan. Currently, in the Transcaucasus, in the outback, people still grow tobacco on their plots, as they say, the old fashioned way.
The main requirement for growing this crop is high air temperature. Tobacco loves it when it is hot outside, so the optimal temperature for preserving the juiciness of the leaves and color is +30 o C. The soil is more suitable when moist and light, as well as “loose” with an admixture of sand.
The method of propagating tobacco is using seeds, from which you must first grow seedlings and then plant them in open ground.
Attention! Each of you should know that the stems and leaves of this plant contain nicotine, and there is more of it in the leaves (up to 3%). Nicotine is a toxic substance that can cause euphoria. This condition passes quickly, but there is no need to abuse tobacco smoking. By the way, they use tobacco not only by smoking, but also by chewing, and also sniffing tobacco powder. Natural nicotine is a potent toxic substance that is unsafe for human health.
So is it still necessary to grow tobacco or not? Theoretically, yes, if health problems do not bother you, then you can try growing smoking tobacco yourself. The first advantage is that there is a little space on the plot, the second is simple mathematics. It is known that there is very little tobacco in 1 cigarette, even less than what is indicated on the pack, about 1 g. It turns out that there is only 20 g in a pack. If you smoke a pack of cigarettes a day, then this is already a blow to the family budget. Let’s say you have to buy 30 or 31 packs per month, but for a year it turns out to be a large amount. As a result, tobacco will cost practically nothing, and even if you only need 6-8 kg per year, it is not as much as the cost of purchased cigarettes.
If conditions allow, then from just 1 bush you can get up to 30 g of tobacco! And in just 1 acre of land you can grow up to 7 plants! Seedlings are placed at a distance of 20 cm from each other, and large-leaved ones - 30 cm, planting density is 70 by 30 or 70 by 20 cm. If you occupy a plot of 40 m2, you will have to plant a total of 300 seedlings. And yet, if the plant turns out to be concentrated or, as they say, “evil” tobacco, then it will have to be diluted with the stems of the same plant, and this is even more profitable.
If you are one of those who dreams of harvesting your first tobacco harvest from your own plot, then you need to get some seeds. Planting material must be purchased at the store. Consultants will offer a choice of several popular varieties of tobacco, it could be “Rural” or “Virginia”. Let's take a closer look at each type of this plant.
Variety "Virginia" - the taste of the leaves is soft and delicate. This plant variety adapts to any climatic conditions. Elite varieties of tobacco are grown in favorable conditions in Brazil. The collected leaves are processed in a simple way: fumigation with smoke.
The “Rural” variety is resistant to changes in weather conditions, the leaf is strong and tart. The aroma is subtle.
There are many more different varieties of tobacco that you can also try to grow at home. Each variety was bred taking into account cultivation in central Russia. It is very important to consider the area where the tobacco will be grown in order to choose the right variety.
So, you should pay attention to the following types of tobacco:
To grow tobacco from seeds, you first need to prepare planting material. This is easy to do, this is how we prepare any seeds before planting: we simply soak them in a wet cloth with the addition of an antiseptic (this can be tartaric acid or a little potassium nitrate). Wrap the dry seeds in a cloth soaked in water with the addition of an antiseptic and leave for a day. This method improves the quality of seeds.
After soaking, it is necessary to rinse the planting material, carefully squeeze out the excess liquid, place it on a saucer or enamel bowl, and then place it on the windowsill (the place should be warm). From time to time you will have to moisten the cloth with the seeds. Be careful not to allow sprouts to germinate to a length exceeding the size of the grains, otherwise the sprouts will quickly break off and the germination of tobacco will decrease.
After the seeds germinate, they become dry or crumbly. They must be mixed with a special solution (sold in stores) or sand.
Estimated seed planting date: late February or early March. Sowing tobacco seeds is done at home. Watering very carefully so as not to dry out or waterlog the soil, as this negatively affects the aroma of the leaves. We moisten the soil every day, maintaining an optimal moisture level. Room temperature +23-25 o C.
When growing tobacco seedlings, it is very important to apply fertilizing, this can be chicken droppings or mineral fertilizers.
Seedlings ready for planting in open ground reach a height of 15 cm with 6 developed leaves and a strong root system.
7 days before the expected planting date, it is necessary to gradually accustom the seedlings to changes in temperature conditions in order to harden the young plants.
When growing tobacco from seeds, it is very important to choose the right planting location. Choose an area where there is no stagnation of moisture or draft. Fertilize the soil and loosen it thoroughly. The following fertilizers are suitable: manure or compost. Be sure to remove weeds from the site before planting.
Rules for planting tobacco:
Tobacco has many “fans”, so it is necessary to take timely protective measures to preserve the harvest.
Common tobacco pests:
Growing tobacco at home is an interesting activity. Gradually you have mastered the intricacies of growing seedlings, and now it is time to harvest. First you need to break off the lower leaves from each adult plant. The collected leaves must be spread in 1 layer in the sun and left for 2 days. Then transfer the leaves to a dark room with high humidity. Leave the leaves to dry for a whole month. To maintain a certain level of humidity in the room, you can place a container of water in the room where tobacco leaves are dried and monitor the level.
Be careful when picking tobacco. The fact is that each bush consists of 4 tiers and the leaves of each tier ripen gradually. Therefore, each time you collect, you need to sign the harvested crop so as not to get confused. The break between harvesting is 2 weeks. Collecting leaves now is from the top down. The top leaves will be the most valuable.
Proper drying of the leaves is already half the success. There will be very little left to achieve the final result and smoke the long-awaited cigarette of tobacco grown with your own hands. There is no need to rush; in order to improve the quality of the collected material, it is necessary to perform a fermentation procedure. You can do this yourself at home. But you will have to try hard for this.
A special cabinet is needed to process leaves. You can make it yourself from an old refrigerator. Place the thermostat and heating element inside. Remember that each type of tobacco has a different fermentation technology.
What is fermentation? This is a complex process of processing the collected raw materials at high temperature (+50 o C) for 2-3 weeks.
Why is complex fermentation necessary? To get rid of excess strength, that is, to reduce the nicotine content, remove tar and improve taste.
If it is not possible to build a special cabinet for drying leaves, accelerated fermentation is allowed. Place the crushed leaves in the oven (temperature no higher than +60 o C).
The finished tobacco can be crushed and stored in linen bags, protected from moisture. They smoke home-grown tobacco in a pipe and wrap the cigarettes using special paper (sold in stores).
Now you know how to grow tobacco at home. Good luck in your endeavors!
Cigarettes are constantly becoming more expensive, and the quality of tobacco leaves much to be desired, so many smokers began to switch to tobacco grown with their own hands. You can't go to prison for tobacco yet
Recommendations for growing tobacco on a personal plot are given by a scientist from the Krasnodar Research and Production Association for Tobacco, Shag and Tobacco Products. Tobacco, compared to shag, is more demanding of heat. It can be grown south of 55° north parallel. Shag is more unpretentious. It grows well from the Arctic to the southern regions of Russia.
A smoker consumes an average of 7.5-8.0 kg of tobacco per year. In favorable conditions, 0.01 ha can produce 30-40 kg of dry tobacco leaves. The weight of one dry leaf is 0.8-1.5 g. 25-33 technically mature leaves are formed on the plant per season.
The following varieties of tobacco are cultivated in Russia: Ostrolist 215, Yubileiny, Trepezond 219, Trepezond 15, shag - M. Pekhlets 4, AS 18/7, Pekhlets local, Datura local.
The duration of the period from planting seedlings to harvesting for tobacco is 100-135 days, for shag - 70-80. It takes 40-45 days to force seedlings. The seed sowing rate per 1 square meter is 0.3-0.4 g. For 0.01 hectares, 0.7 square meters of a greenhouse or greenhouse are required, from this area you can get 800-900 plants. At home, seedlings are grown in flower pots and wooden boxes, placing them on sunny windows.
4-5 days before sowing, the seeds are soaked in water or in a 0.01 percent solution of tartaric acid or in a 1.0 percent solution of potassium nitrate for 24 hours at a temperature of 25-27 ° C. This accelerates seed germination and reduces the time forcing seedlings for 5-7 days, in addition, the yield of seedlings increases by 15-20 percent. The solution consumption rate is 3 ml per 1 g of seeds. After 24 hours, the seeds are removed from the solution, washed, excess water is removed and, when wet, placed in a layer of 2-3 centimeters in an enamel or earthenware container.
They are covered with a damp cloth on top and placed for germination (at a temperature of 27 ° C) in a thermostat or in a bright, heated and well-ventilated room. The seeds need to be periodically moistened and stirred 4-5 times a day to allow air access. Usually on the 3-4th day the seeds hatch and sprouts appear in the form of white dots. You should not allow the formation of a sprout longer than the seed, as such sprouts easily break off and die.
The hatched seeds are dried until they flow, mixed with well-disinfected sand, humus or a nutrient mixture, sifted through a screen with 0.25-centimeter mesh and sown in greenhouses. If sprouted seeds cannot be sown immediately, then they are stored in a room with an air temperature of +1 ... + 2 ° C (in the basement, in the refrigerator).
On 1 square meter of greenhouse, 0.13 cubic meter of nutrient mixture is prepared, including 0.02 cubic meter of powder with the ratio of components: 50% humus, 25% earth, and 25% sand (the powder consists of 75% humus and 25% sand ). The thickness of the nutrient layer is 8-10 centimeters. Sowing dates are the third ten days of February - the first ten days of March. When sowing 1 bucket of powder, take 3-4 g of tobacco seeds (or 15-20 g of shag seeds) per 10 square meters of greenhouse. The planting depth of tobacco seeds is 0.3-0.5 centimeters, shag seeds - 0.7-0.8 centimeters. Before and after sowing seeds and sprinkling them, the surface of the greenhouses is watered (water consumption 1 liter per square meter).
After sowing, monitor soil moisture. Before the “cross” phase, seedlings are watered once a day with 1 liter per square meter, before the “ear” phase – 2-3 liters per square meter, after the “ear” phase – 3-5 liters per square meter. The temperature in the nurseries from sowing to the “cross” phase is 23-25° C, in subsequent phases – 20° C. During the growing period, the seedlings are sprinkled 3-4 times and fed. A solution of mineral fertilizers for feeding seedlings is prepared at the rate of: per 10 liters of water - 30 g of ammonium nitrate, 50-60 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium sulfate or 20 g of 40% potassium salt. Fertilizing is carried out using a watering can with a nozzle with small holes (0.25 cm) consumption - 10 liters of solution per 4-5 square meters of nursery.
As an organic fertilizer, it is better to use an infusion of chicken manure (10 liters of water per 1 kg of manure). Leave it for 10-12 days to ferment, stirring occasionally. The fermented mass is filtered. Add water to the solution - 4-5 parts water for 1 part liquid.
7-8 days before planting, seedlings are hardened and the number of waterings is reduced, and 2-3 days before planting, watering is stopped completely. This hardening increases the resistance of plants to unfavorable conditions in open ground, promotes better survival and rapid rooting of plants. The stem of a well-hardened seedling does not break when you wrap it around your finger.
2-3 hours before sampling, the seedlings are watered abundantly. It is not advisable to select seedlings in bunches, since such sampling removes many underdeveloped plants. You should pull out one plant at a time, grabbing the two most developed leaves. For planting, take seedlings 14-16 centimeters high with 5-6 developed leaves (not counting cotyledons), a stem thickness of 0.3-0.5 centimeters with a well-developed root system. Seedlings are planted in the ground when the danger of spring frosts has passed, and the soil temperature at a depth of 10 centimeters is about 10 degrees.
The approximate time for planting tobacco is from April 20 to May 25. The optimal planting density for large-leaved tobacco varieties (Ostrolist 215, Yubileiny) is 70×30 centimeters, for medium-leaved varieties (Trepezond 19, Trepezond 219) and all varieties of shag – 70×20 centimeters. When planting along a previously prepared furrow, holes are made at a distance of 30 centimeters for tobacco and 20 centimeters for shag. 0.5 liters of water is poured into each hole, and the seedlings are laid out along the furrow with the leaves to the left of the planter. The planter deepens the hole with his right hand, with his left hand he places the seedlings vertically into it, presses the moist soil to the roots and sprinkles dry soil on top to reduce moisture evaporation. For better survival and rapid growth, the roots of the seedlings are dipped in a mullein solution, which is prepared from fresh cow manure and an equal amount of clay of a creamy consistency. Excess solution is shaken off and the roots are generously sprinkled with finely sifted humus mixed with granulated superphosphate in a ratio of 4: 1.
During the growing season of plants, regular loosening of the soil, removal of weeds, fertilizing, watering, and disease control are carried out. In flowering plants, the inflorescences are broken off (the top) and the side shoots are cut off (stepchildren). Depending on soil moisture, 2-3 waterings are carried out. The approximate watering rate is 6-8 liters of water per plant. A 0.3% solution of polycarbacin or a 0.4% suspension of zineb (5 liters of solution per 0.01 ha) is used against peronosporosis. When aphids appear, plants are sprayed with actelik (20-30 g per 10 liters of water) or rogor (10-20 g per 10 liters of water).
Tobacco leaves are removed, starting from the lower tiers, as they turn yellow (by 1/3 of the blade) in 5-6 steps. They should not be harvested in an unripe or overripe state, wet from dew or rain. The broken leaves are laid out in the shade in a layer of 30 centimeters, after 12-14 hours, when they are wilted, they begin to fasten the leaves on cords and hang them in a drying structure (greenhouse boguns, canopies). Do not dry leaves in the rain or strong wind. Solar drying lasts 15-17 days and produces the final raw material. In cloudy weather, the leaves dry slowly and the raw material turns out dark. Dried tobacco is removed carefully. Cords with tobacco are folded in four and 5-6 cords are attached to a specially prepared hook. Such a garland of cords with tobacco is called gavanka. Havankas are hung on poles placed in the storage room. In autumn, the leaves are removed from the cords, smoothed with your hands, and placed in bundles.
Fermented tobacco is used to make high-quality cigarettes. Fermentation can be done at home. Approximate mode: tobacco is heated in a container for 2-3 days to 50°C with an air humidity of 60-65°. After which (the temperature remains constant - 50 ° C) the air humidity is increased to 70-75% for 5-6 days. Then, over 48 hours, the temperature is gradually reduced, and the relative humidity is increased to 75-80%. Next, the tobacco is cooled to a temperature of 20-25 ° C with a humidity of no less than 11% and no more than 16%. Refrigerate the tobacco for 2-3 days. Then it is laid down for 25-30 days.
Tobacco is cut into fibers 0.5-0.7 mm wide. The length of the cigarettes is 70-85 mm, the diameter is 8 mm. Tobacco consumption per cigarette is 0.8-1.1 g. To obtain high-quality cigarettes, a mixture of various tobaccos is required. Well, there will be no problems with the sale of tobacco; it is always a profitable business.
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