A riser in a multi-apartment residential or private building consists of a set of pipes through which sewage waste from all plumbing fixtures enters the sewer system. Long-term use of the sewer riser leads to its wear and tear. To avoid unpleasant consequences, it is necessary to replace it in a timely manner. Usually its installation is carried out by specialists who understand all the intricacies of the drainage system. But if you want to install a sewer riser in an apartment with your own hands, first evaluate your capabilities and watch the training video. This article is intended to provide answers to many questions that beginners have during construction and plumbing work.
The standard sewer riser diagram looks like this: vertical pipe, usually located in the toilet (there may be exceptions), is connected to the crosspiece, and is fixed to it using a tee. In addition, it includes a compensator, revision and pipes.
Scheme: sewerage system in an apartment building
To carry out work with the sewer riser you will need special tools:
Set of tools for replacing a sewer riser
Before installing a new riser, you will have to get rid of the old one. The scheme of work is very simple. The main thing is to carry out actions step by step.
Advice. Use goggles and gloves while working to protect yourself.
Dismantling old sewer pipes
Advice. Cover exposed areas of the riser with plastic wrap. This will help prevent spread throughout the apartment. unpleasant odor.
Replacing the riser with a new one will not take too much time. Follow step by step instructions and you will definitely succeed.
Attention! Soundproofing of sewer pipes in an apartment is achieved in several ways. Firstly, the use of noise-absorbing films that are used to wrap the riser and pipes. And, secondly, by installing rubber sleeves in pipe transitions, which reduce the noise level.
Another stage of work after installing a new sewer riser is installation ventilation system. Don't neglect them. It is suitable mainly for private homes. It is used for one purpose - getting rid of unpleasant odors during the removal of plumbing waste through sewer pipes. Plumbing siphons, which are compact in size, when not used for a long time, spread an unpleasant odor after the water has completely dried. The drain pipe sucks air from the sewer and distributes it throughout the house. The diameter of such pipes usually matches the size of sewer pipes.
Ventilation system
Ventilation installation should be considered at the beginning of house construction. If it was not provided for in advance, then fan pipe should be installed in the wall of the sanitary room. It should be located no closer than 5 m from windows, doors and balconies, and exit through the roof into the ventilation system.
Attention! It is unacceptable to route the ventilation pipe through the roof!
It is very important to install the sewer riser pipes at the correct angle
In general, replacing a riser is not a difficult task, but it will require the utmost precision and attention from you. After all, its subsequent operation and possible undesirable consequences depend on how well you install the sewer riser in your apartment. Additional work on ventilation of the sewage system will eliminate the unpleasant odor. The new plastic riser will become an excellent alternative old one made of cast iron. But perhaps the only drawback of plastic pipes is their high noise conductivity. Soundproofing the sewer pipes in the apartment will help get rid of it. It won't take much time. Comfort and safety are the two main components that underlie the replacement of a riser.
The sewerage system is important element any multi-storey building, so all its elements must be installed reliably and efficiently. It is best to install a sewer riser in a multi-storey building with the help of specialists. However, it is also possible to install a riser yourself, but to do this you need to stock up on knowledge and gain some experience in construction.
Next, the structure needs to be assembled, after which the positions of the clamps securing the pipes to the walls are noted. When the location of the clamps is marked, holes are drilled in the wall for the dowels, and the clamps are immediately installed (you can use a plumb line to control the position of the hole). Once the pipes are secured, the clamps are secured with screws.
In general, compliance with the level must be carefully monitored for what it is used for. building level. In addition, it is important to remember that sewerage in an apartment building is not installed in the underground space, above the ceiling, in the walls of living quarters, ventilation chambers and transformer rooms. It is also necessary to ensure that the dimensions of all elements are appropriate, for example, the diameter of the sewer riser when replacing must correspond to the previous element (read: " ").
Plastic sewer pipelines can be disguised by concreted them directly into the wall. Adhesive tape is used to seal the gap between the coupling and the socket. If necessary, you can use thick paper to prevent solution from getting into this space.
Where the pipe passes through the ceiling, it is necessary to provide this area with a sufficient level of sound absorption and moisture resistance. In addition, the system must be fireproof. The places where pipes pass through the ceilings must be concreted throughout the entire thickness.
The part of the structure located 10 cm above the ceiling must be treated with a 3 cm layer of cement mortar. To prevent the spread of fire in the event of a fire along the pipeline, it is necessary to use special fire-fighting devices. The scheme of their operation looks like this: heating increases the volume of these barriers, as a result of which they become an insurmountable barrier to fire, so it cannot enter another room.
It is necessary to assemble the sewer system starting from the lower levels - basement or first floor. During assembly, each assembled part must be installed immediately and completely, and the connection to the pipeline and sealing of the sockets must also be carried out at this stage.
The sewer riser in an apartment building must be made of pipes of the same diameter. The diameter of the sewer riser and other dimensions can be determined by performing calculations that take into account the expected volume of drains and the angle of connection of apartment pipelines (read also: " "). Since this type of sewage system is classified as domestic, it must be equipped with a ventilation system. The ventilation outlet is usually directed upward from a shaft specially designated for the system or mounted on the roof.
The operation of ventilation in the case of a riser is ensured by the pressure arising in the internal part of the sewer and ventilation system (more details: " "). Polluted air is pushed by gravitational pressure into the atmosphere, and oxygen access is provided through inspection wells, which are not sealed.
There are situations when the installation of a sewer riser is not accompanied by ventilation. Of course, creating such a system requires a very accurate and verified project, but if it is drawn up correctly, these costs will be recouped by reducing the cost of sewer installation.
When laying water supply and sewerage through one shaft, the sewer riser is located in the corner, and the water riser is mounted near it. When installing a riser in a room where the pipe may be damaged, the installation site must be protected.
If there are no such signs, then replacing the riser is not necessary. In addition, it is important to know that cast iron risers can work for a very long time, and during normal operation, replacing them with plastic elements there's simply no point.
If there are strong arguments for replacing the riser, you need to prepare for work, which will require the following materials and equipment:
Next, the most problematic operation begins - removing the tee from the bottom of the structure. If the device wobbles after removing part of the pipe, then there will be no special problems, and the tee will be removed without problems. In the absence of such help, the tee is cut out with a grinder, but the lower bell is left unchanged. Despite its apparent simplicity, the entire operation takes about an hour.
Conclusion
The sewer riser in a multi-storey building plays an important role and provides sewerage to many consumers. If the riser is installed correctly, its service life will be very long. High-quality repair sewer riser or its replacement can also give very good results.
When carrying out renovations in a bathroom, there is often a need to change the sewer riser. Carrying out such work is necessary if a crack or chip appears in the old one, which causes leaks. Let's figure it outhow to replace a sewer riser in an apartment.
Today, many people want to replace the old sewer system in their apartment with their own hands. After all, if replacing a cast iron riser was difficult task, then working with plastic is much easier. However, you need to take into account that replacing a sewer riser in an apartment building is not the easiest task.
Of course, if it is possible to come to an agreement with the neighbors along the entire riser, then such a replacement of the sewer system in an apartment building will be advisable. But replacing a serviceable cast iron one, which does not leak and has a long service life, with a plastic one in a separate apartment is recommended only if the housing is located on the top floor.
If the sewer riser on the upper floor is being replaced, be sure to preserve the ventilation pipe that goes to the roof. The purpose of this pipe is to equalize the pressure in drain pipes. If it is missing, the operation of the water seals is disrupted and the smell of sewage appears in the apartments.
Replacing a sewer system in a private house is a less difficult task, since you don’t have to negotiate with neighbors. But in general, replacing a sewer riser in an apartment building and in a private building requires the same operations.
Replacing the sewer riser in an apartment is advisable if a leak appears on the pipe. In this case, repairs can be made temporarily. If it leaks, then you need to think not about how to seal the leak, but about how to change the sewer riser in the apartment.
Of course, if it leaks slightly, there is no urgent need to install a new one. Moreover, this is not so easy to do in multi-storey buildings. At the first stage, you will have to decide how to seal the leak. The answer to the question of how to seal a hole depends on the location and size of the leak.
If the holes are small, it can be repaired by wrapping it in several layers of gauze soaked in epoxy. If longitudinal cracks appear on the sewer riser, they should be covered with sealant; if the damage is large, we seal them with two-component “cold welding”.
Let's figure out how to install a sewer riser. At the first stage, we will prepare the material that is needed for work. For the home handyman required:
Advice! If revisions were installed on the old riser, then this part must be installed on the new one. The presence of an audit helps to carry out system maintenance. In particular, through the inspection window, risers are cleaned if the sewer system is clogged. Before starting work, it is necessary to warn neighbors living in the apartments above about the need to refrain from using water supply and sewerage during the work. It’s even better not to count on your neighbors’ understanding, but to first turn off the water so that there’s simply nothing to pour into the sewer.
You should start with dismantling work on the sewer riser. They need to be done correctly, otherwise problems with neighbors will not be avoided after replacement.
After installation is completed, you can soundproof the sewer riser yourself. Why is this necessary? A plastic pipe is noisier than a cast iron pipe, so if you do not soundproof it, the noise from the drained water after someone uses the toilet will be heard throughout the apartment.
Such a “close connection” between the bathroom and living rooms obviously superfluous, so soundproofing is a dire necessity. Sound insulation can be carried out different ways. Most often used soundproofing material based on foamed polymer.
If the riser is clogged, it is not necessary to replace this part. Let's figure out how to clean a sewer riser. First of all, you should make sure that the riser is clogged. It must be said that this pipe becomes clogged relatively rarely. The formation of blockages in drains, including the drain from the toilet, is much more common.
However, when improper use The riser itself may become clogged. Besides, in old pipe deposits accumulate on the walls, significantly narrowing the lumen. What to do if old risers clog regularly? In this case the best way eliminating the accident will be its replacement.
If the pipe becomes clogged due to a large object entering the system that should not be in the sewer (for example, a rag), then the blockage can be cleared. To extract an extraneous sample, the revision window is used. The distance to which the cable with the hook will have to be lowered depends on the location of the blockage.
How to lower the cable into the riser if access to the inspection is not available? In this case, the toilet can be dismantled. The cable is lowered through the hole to which the outlet from the toilet is connected.
To remove small deposits on the walls, the riser can be flushed using special hydrodynamic machines. Cleaning services are provided by sewer service companies.
The work of replacing the riser cannot be classified as particularly difficult, but it requires care and patience. If you wish, you can clearly see how the sewer riser is replaced - videos on this topic can be found on websites dedicated to construction and repair.
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I think there is no need to explain to the dear reader what a sewer riser is. But how it is structured, who is responsible for its safety and repair - these are questions that are relevant for many residents of municipal and privatized apartments. I will try to answer these questions, and at the same time tell you how to solve typical problems DIY sewer risers.
First, let's figure out who should change the sewer riser in an apartment when it wears out (for example, if the socket of a cast-iron pipe begins to crumble or the ear under the inspection cover falls off).
Resolution No. 354 of the Government of the Russian Federation in paragraph 5 provides a list of elements of the sewer system related to the common property of residents.
The list includes:
The riser (that is, pipes, tees and crosses mounted on a vertical channel for drainage) belongs to the area of responsibility of the housing organization or service company, regardless of the type of housing ownership (state, municipal or privatized).
There are, however, a couple of nuances here.
If you change pipes yourself, be prepared for the fact that all their problems will now become yours.
Any clogged riser is a problem management company. Both because the riser belongs to common property, and because if the same floor rag becomes clogged, it is impossible to unambiguously determine its owner.
Even if the blockage occurred between the top and second floors from above, the owners of the upper apartment can quite rightly point out that the drain on the roof is accessible to any visitor to the roof.
In my practice, there were several cases when the cause of a clogged riser was actually garbage (including large ones) thrown into the sewer from the roof.
Among the most exotic cases was a jar made of thick glass.
To remove it, I had to open the cast iron riser.
Alas, it is not always possible for an apartment owner to emergency situation wait for active actions from the management company. Sometimes you have to take matters into your own hands. To understand how to change the sewer riser in an apartment and how to solve some typical sewerage problems, it is advisable to have a good understanding of the structure of the riser.
Element | Description |
Pipe | Socket pipes 0.3 - 3 meters long form straight sections |
Tee | Serves to connect a comb (indoor sewage system) or a toilet. The side bend can be straight (90 degrees) or oblique (45 or 60 degrees) |
Cross | Serves to connect plumbing fixtures located on both sides of it to the riser. In some houses it provides sewerage distribution to two neighboring apartments |
Audit | Hatch for cleaning the sewer. Plastic revision - a short tee with a threaded cap on the side outlet; cast iron is equipped with ears for attaching the cover to bolts. Tightness is ensured by a rubber gasket. Sometimes, instead of revision, an oblique tee with a plug is used |
Fan outlet | Exiting the riser beyond the level of the pitched or flat roof. Provides sewerage ventilation and air suction during volley discharge of water. The absence of a drain outlet during a volley discharge can disrupt the operation of water seals of plumbing fixtures |
The photo shows the terminals of risers on the roof of an apartment building.
The riser is assembled from socketed cast iron or plastic (PVC, polypropylene, less often polyethylene) pipes. The neck of each pipe must be secured to the main wall with a clamp. The fastening is designed to prevent spontaneous uncoupling of socket joints.
Connections of pipes to each other and to shaped elements (tees, bends, etc.) are made airtight. Sealing prevents leaks Wastewater in case of blockages and penetration of foul-smelling sewer fumes into apartments.
Tightness is ensured:
It is best to mint a cast iron socket yourself using a graphite gland.
It is more durable than the heel and does not require sealing with mortar.
In the basement, the riser turns into a drainage pipe - a horizontal sewer branch connecting several risers with an outlet to the well. It is brought to the roof by a straight pipe of the same diameter that is used between floors; In new buildings, it is common practice to combine 2 - 4 risers with a common waste pipe.
Cleaning inspections should be located:
How to replace a sewer riser in an apartment if the tightness of the straight section between the floors, limited by socket joints, is broken?
We will need:
Plastic pipes can be installed in the gap of a cast iron riser.
To combine a plastic socket with a smooth cast-iron pipe, it is enough to thoroughly clean the surface of the latter from layers of paint and rust using a sharp knife or a metal brush.
Replacing a site plastic riser with cast iron pipes is not possible.
All work with the sewer riser begins with thoughtful communication with upper neighbors right up to last floor. They should be asked not to use the plumbing for 1 to 3 hours.
If you have access to the basement, take the time to turn off the cold and hot water along the riser, hanging signs on the valves with the inscription “work in progress in apartment No. ***.” In addition, prepare a deep basin or bucket. My experience shows that among the residents there will always be someone who has forgotten your request and used the toilet.
The procedure is as follows:
If the lower bell is located in the ceiling, it is not necessary to open it. It is enough to add a sewer coupling to the list of necessary items. After the defective area above the ceiling is cut out, it is put on the lower pipe with the outer chamfer previously removed. Further actions are identical to those described above.
How is a sewer riser replaced in an apartment if the socket inside the ceiling is damaged?
The most labor-intensive part of the operation is dismantling the ceiling itself. Fortunately, reinforced concrete slab There is no need to chisel: the risers are passed through a technological hole in it and sealed with cement-sand mortar. However, you still have to tinker.
The work begins with dismantling the toilet and all fragile interior items in the lower and upper apartments. If the lower toilet is installed with cement or glue, only the tank is dismantled; the bowl is covered with boards, plywood boards and other available materials. The top toilet almost always has to be removed: the tee or crosspiece to which it is connected must be replaced.
The seal of the riser in the ceiling can be dismantled:
For this purpose, I used an improvised chisel 40 - 50 cm long, made from a sharpened steel rod with a diameter of 30 mm with reinforcement welded on the side, and a sledgehammer on a steel handle.
Further instructions look like this:
Trimming plastic pipes locally is carried out in compliance with a couple of simple rules:
If the plastic socket takes a lot of effort to assemble, apply a little liquid soap to the O-ring.
After assembling the riser, formwork is assembled under the ceiling (for example, cut to size and supported from below with several bars plywood board); then two or three reinforcement bars are placed in the hatch, resting on the edges of the hole. Then the technological hole is filled from above with cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1:3. The solution is bayoneted with reinforcement for greater packing density.
A typical problem with old cast iron risers is the destruction of the socket, crushed by the mass of the pipe resting on it. This problem can be solved in two ways:
Often the cause of sewerage leaks in the ceiling is the subsidence of the lower cast-iron pipe under the influence of its own weight. As a result of subsidence, the upper pipe completely or partially leaves the socket of the lower one, and when the riser is filled with drainage from the ceiling, it begins to flow.
Diagnosing drawdown is quite simple. A sure sign of it is an unpainted strip of cast iron on the sewer riser just below the ceiling. The reason for the subsidence is poor-quality sealing of the technological hole in the ceiling, coupled with unreliable fastening of the pipe to the wall.
The problem is solved like this:
If the water level in your bathtub and toilet rises even when the taps are closed, this is a sure sign of a clogged sewer riser or drain. What to do in this case?
To clean the riser the following can be used:
Plumbing cable. The price of the tool is from 150 rubles.
Your task is to gain access to the nearest revision or tee located above the blockage.
Cleaning the riser from bottom to top is a very bad idea. When cleaning, a column of sewage several meters high will cover you and everything around with an even layer of a substance with an unforgettable aroma.
It is better to clean the riser together. One person pulls the cable or wire, preventing it from folding into loops, and rotates the handle; the second delivers the tool to the blockage. After the water has drained, continue to rotate the cable on the way back: this way you will not allow the cause of the blockage caught by the hook to float freely again.
If the cable or wire does not pass the blockage, you can try to clear the riser from the roof. For this purpose, a crowbar tied to a strong rope is lowered into the fan pipe. The length of the rope should not allow the crowbar to rest against the connection of the riser with the ladder: in my memory, there were cases when the crowbar pierced the cast iron bend right through.
I hope that my recommendations will help the reader in the unequal struggle with sewage. As usual, additional useful information can be found in the video in this article. Please feel free to share in the comments. own experience. Good luck, comrades!
July 15, 2016If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!
Plastic pipes for sewerage in last years are used everywhere and replace with great success cast iron pipes.
And there are many reasons for this. Let's consider the advantages of plastic pipes for external and internal sewerage.
1. Light weight.
2. Easy installation. The plastic is easy to cut and easier to connect.
3. Durability. Service life is at least 50 years.
4. Price. Several times cheaper than cast iron.
1. Light weight.
Assembling a sewer system from plastic pipes is very simple.
They are easy to move from one place to another, transport over long distances, and lay.
Even a two-meter pipe can be installed by one person (this will not work with a cast iron one).
2. Easy installation.
The plastic is easy to cut and easier to connect.
3. Durability.
Plastic pipes Plastic sewer pipes are resistant to aggressive environments,
To high humidity, to corrosion. Therefore, they can last quite a long time. The plastic manufacturer provides a fifty-year warranty period for its product. In reality, pipes last much longer.
4. Resistance to blockages.
The inner surface of plastic pipes is practically free of roughness. Therefore, dirt settles inside the system very slowly. And blockages rarely occur. After laying the sewer system, you can forget about cleaning it for several decades.
5. Immunity to temperature changes.
Exist plastic pipes for external sewerage, which can withstand frosty winters well.
Disadvantages of plastic sewer pipes:
1. Noisy.
The plastic sewer system is noisy. This deficiency is especially noticeable in apartment buildings, where one riser is installed for several families.
2. Sensitivity to high temperatures.
The average operating temperature is from forty to ninety degrees above zero. With more high temperatures Most plastics soften. But this drawback cannot be perceived as significant, because The temperature in the sewer is not that high.