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» How to replace a rotten sewer riser inlet. Replacing an old vertical sewer pipe. Connection to the sewer riser

How to replace a rotten sewer riser inlet. Replacing an old vertical sewer pipe. Connection to the sewer riser

A riser in a multi-apartment residential or private building consists of a set of pipes through which sewage waste from all plumbing fixtures enters the sewer system. Long-term use of the sewer riser leads to its wear and tear. To avoid unpleasant consequences, it is necessary to replace it in a timely manner. Usually its installation is carried out by specialists who understand all the intricacies of the drainage system. But if you want to install a sewer riser in an apartment with your own hands, first evaluate your capabilities and watch the training video. This article is intended to provide answers to many questions that beginners have during construction and plumbing work.

What is a riser?

The standard sewer riser diagram looks like this: vertical pipe, usually located in the toilet (there may be exceptions), is connected to the crosspiece, and is fixed to it using a tee. In addition, it includes a compensator, revision and pipes.

Scheme: sewerage system in an apartment building

To carry out work with the sewer riser you will need special tools:

  • Bulgarian;
  • Grinder;
  • chisel;
  • film;
  • screwdriver;
  • perforator;
  • hammer;
  • nail puller;
  • gloves and glasses.

Set of tools for replacing a sewer riser

Dismantling the old riser

Before installing a new riser, you will have to get rid of the old one. The scheme of work is very simple. The main thing is to carry out actions step by step.

  • Turn off the water and warn neighbors not to use the sewer.

Advice. Use goggles and gloves while working to protect yourself.

  • You need to make small cuts at the top and bottom of the sewer riser using a grinder. There is no need to cut the pipe completely, as the tool disk may get stuck in it.
  • Hit the pipe several times (gently). Use a chisel and hammer for this. After such manipulations, it should break easily.

Dismantling old sewer pipes

  • Formed sharp corners smooth with a sanding machine.
  • The remaining parts of the riser must be cleaned of dirt.

Advice. Cover exposed areas of the riser with plastic wrap. This will help prevent spread throughout the apartment. unpleasant odor.

  • Remove the bottom of the riser pipe. Swing the upper section of the pipe and pull out the remaining elements. Remove the tee using a nail puller. It should also be replaced.
  • If the tee is sitting tightly, then you need to break the joint. Use a hammer drill.
  • Periodically clear the mortar with a chisel or screwdriver. If this method does not help, use an angle grinder. The cross is cut 3 cm above the pipe socket.
  • Dismantling work has been completed. Now it's time to install a new sewer riser.

Installation of a new riser

Replacing the riser with a new one will not take too much time. Follow step by step instructions and you will definitely succeed.


Attention! Soundproofing of sewer pipes in an apartment is achieved in several ways. Firstly, the use of noise-absorbing films that are used to wrap the riser and pipes. And, secondly, by installing rubber sleeves in pipe transitions, which reduce the noise level.

Ventilation system installation

Another stage of work after installing a new sewer riser is installation ventilation system. Don't neglect them. It is suitable mainly for private homes. It is used for one purpose - getting rid of unpleasant odors during the removal of plumbing waste through sewer pipes. Plumbing siphons, which are compact in size, when not used for a long time, spread an unpleasant odor after the water has completely dried. The drain pipe sucks air from the sewer and distributes it throughout the house. The diameter of such pipes usually matches the size of sewer pipes.

Ventilation system

Ventilation installation should be considered at the beginning of house construction. If it was not provided for in advance, then fan pipe should be installed in the wall of the sanitary room. It should be located no closer than 5 m from windows, doors and balconies, and exit through the roof into the ventilation system.

Attention! It is unacceptable to route the ventilation pipe through the roof!

  1. Use pipes with a diameter slightly larger than necessary. An alternative would be to use valves. They are very effective for ventilating the sewer system.
  2. Avoid overly long eyeliners.
  3. Be careful when laying pipes. If work is carried out at the wrong angle, then there is a high probability of formation air jams. As a result, the entire pipe section will have to be redone. And these are additional material costs.

It is very important to install the sewer riser pipes at the correct angle

In general, replacing a riser is not a difficult task, but it will require the utmost precision and attention from you. After all, its subsequent operation and possible undesirable consequences depend on how well you install the sewer riser in your apartment. Additional work on ventilation of the sewage system will eliminate the unpleasant odor. The new plastic riser will become an excellent alternative old one made of cast iron. But perhaps the only drawback of plastic pipes is their high noise conductivity. Soundproofing the sewer pipes in the apartment will help get rid of it. It won't take much time. Comfort and safety are the two main components that underlie the replacement of a riser.

Replacing a sewer riser: video

Replacing a sewer riser with your own hands: photo





The sewerage system is important element any multi-storey building, so all its elements must be installed reliably and efficiently. It is best to install a sewer riser in a multi-storey building with the help of specialists. However, it is also possible to install a riser yourself, but to do this you need to stock up on knowledge and gain some experience in construction.

Rules for installing a sewer riser in a multi-storey building

The sewer riser in a multi-storey building must be installed in strict accordance with the project. At the installation site, it is necessary to mark the location line of the structure, and then you need to make several horizontal marks to ensure the slope of the outlet networks.

Next, the structure needs to be assembled, after which the positions of the clamps securing the pipes to the walls are noted. When the location of the clamps is marked, holes are drilled in the wall for the dowels, and the clamps are immediately installed (you can use a plumb line to control the position of the hole). Once the pipes are secured, the clamps are secured with screws.

In general, compliance with the level must be carefully monitored for what it is used for. building level. In addition, it is important to remember that sewerage in an apartment building is not installed in the underground space, above the ceiling, in the walls of living quarters, ventilation chambers and transformer rooms. It is also necessary to ensure that the dimensions of all elements are appropriate, for example, the diameter of the sewer riser when replacing must correspond to the previous element (read: " ").

The sewer riser can be installed in the bathroom. As a rule, it is mounted there, hiding the structure behind the toilet. In addition, repairing the sewer riser will be somewhat easier in this case. When installing the riser, you need to leave a small gap between the rear wall of the room and the pipe so that its socket can be sealed in the future. That is, the central axis of a 110 mm riser should be 75 mm away from the wall, and for 50 mm pipes this distance will be 45 mm. In addition, when replacing the structure, the installation height of the inspection on the sewer riser must correspond to the previous level. Read also: "".

Plastic sewer pipelines can be disguised by concreted them directly into the wall. Adhesive tape is used to seal the gap between the coupling and the socket. If necessary, you can use thick paper to prevent solution from getting into this space.

A properly installed sewer riser in a multi-storey building makes virtually no noise: during operation, the noise from the wall does not exceed 35 dB. For high-quality sound insulation, it is necessary to cover the wall with a layer of plaster of at least 20 mm (read also: " "). Before changing the sewer riser in the toilet, it is advisable to wrap the fittings and pipes in soft material.

Where the pipe passes through the ceiling, it is necessary to provide this area with a sufficient level of sound absorption and moisture resistance. In addition, the system must be fireproof. The places where pipes pass through the ceilings must be concreted throughout the entire thickness.

The part of the structure located 10 cm above the ceiling must be treated with a 3 cm layer of cement mortar. To prevent the spread of fire in the event of a fire along the pipeline, it is necessary to use special fire-fighting devices. The scheme of their operation looks like this: heating increases the volume of these barriers, as a result of which they become an insurmountable barrier to fire, so it cannot enter another room.

It is necessary to assemble the sewer system starting from the lower levels - basement or first floor. During assembly, each assembled part must be installed immediately and completely, and the connection to the pipeline and sealing of the sockets must also be carried out at this stage.

The socket of the sewer pipe should be directed upward. A meter from the floor on each riser there should be an inspection that allows the structure to be cleaned if it becomes clogged. The risers are fixed to the walls directly under the sockets. If the height of one floor is up to 4 meters, you can install one fastening on each floor.

The sewer riser in an apartment building must be made of pipes of the same diameter. The diameter of the sewer riser and other dimensions can be determined by performing calculations that take into account the expected volume of drains and the angle of connection of apartment pipelines (read also: " "). Since this type of sewage system is classified as domestic, it must be equipped with a ventilation system. The ventilation outlet is usually directed upward from a shaft specially designated for the system or mounted on the roof.

The operation of ventilation in the case of a riser is ensured by the pressure arising in the internal part of the sewer and ventilation system (more details: " "). Polluted air is pushed by gravitational pressure into the atmosphere, and oxygen access is provided through inspection wells, which are not sealed.

Exhaust element ventilation should be located as far as possible from windows and balconies: minimum distance According to the standards, it is 4 meters. In addition, sewer ventilation should never be combined with a chimney. The dimensions of the riser outlet channel and the dimensions of the exhaust pipe must match. You can often find a design in which the role of ventilation is played by drain valves.

There are situations when the installation of a sewer riser is not accompanied by ventilation. Of course, creating such a system requires a very accurate and verified project, but if it is drawn up correctly, these costs will be recouped by reducing the cost of sewer installation.

When laying water supply and sewerage through one shaft, the sewer riser is located in the corner, and the water riser is mounted near it. When installing a riser in a room where the pipe may be damaged, the installation site must be protected.

How to change a sewer riser, taking into account its diameter

Before you replace the tee in the sewer riser, or change the riser itself, you need to make sure that this work is necessary. Replacing a sewer riser can be done if there are one or more leaks, numerous cracks and chips, rotten areas, etc. In addition, sometimes it is necessary to change the design if the sewer riser is clogged, and not for the first time.

If there are no such signs, then replacing the riser is not necessary. In addition, it is important to know that cast iron risers can work for a very long time, and during normal operation, replacing them with plastic elements there's simply no point.

If there are strong arguments for replacing the riser, you need to prepare for work, which will require the following materials and equipment:

  1. Plastic tee.
  2. Two pipes of suitable length.
  3. Compensator.
  4. Adapter for connecting pipes without sockets.
  5. Clamps that allow you to fix the sewer riser to the wall.
  6. Plastic bends.
  7. Inspection of the sewer riser (if this element was present in the old design).
  8. Plaster.
  9. Silicone sealant.
  10. Rubber seals.
  11. Grinder and set of cutting discs.
  12. Protective glasses.
  13. Screwdriver Set.
  14. Ladder.
  15. Bucket.
  16. Chisel.
The work is performed as follows. First you need to dismantle the old structure, for which you need to make an incision a meter above the tee. The pipe is not completely cut off. Then such a cut must be made in the upper part of the pipe, but the distance from the ceiling to the cutting line should be approximately 8 cm. Having finished with the cut, a chisel is driven into it. By hitting it several times, you can achieve the desired effect: the pipe will burst. When this action has been completed with both cuts, the pipe part can be removed.
Next, the most problematic operation begins - removing the tee from the bottom of the structure. If the device wobbles after removing part of the pipe, then there will be no special problems, and the tee will be removed without problems. In the absence of such help, the tee is cut out with a grinder, but the lower bell is left unchanged. Despite its apparent simplicity, the entire operation takes about an hour.

Having removed the tee, it is necessary to clean out all the dirt and remove interfering elements, after which a new riser is installed (you can read more about this in the article on installing a sewer riser). On this renovation work finished, and the question “how to clean the sewer riser?” will not bother the apartment owners for a very long time.

Conclusion

The sewer riser in a multi-storey building plays an important role and provides sewerage to many consumers. If the riser is installed correctly, its service life will be very long. High-quality repair sewer riser or its replacement can also give very good results.

When carrying out renovations in a bathroom, there is often a need to change the sewer riser. Carrying out such work is necessary if a crack or chip appears in the old one, which causes leaks. Let's figure it outhow to replace a sewer riser in an apartment.

Today, many people want to replace the old sewer system in their apartment with their own hands. After all, if replacing a cast iron riser was difficult task, then working with plastic is much easier. However, you need to take into account that replacing a sewer riser in an apartment building is not the easiest task.

Of course, if it is possible to come to an agreement with the neighbors along the entire riser, then such a replacement of the sewer system in an apartment building will be advisable. But replacing a serviceable cast iron one, which does not leak and has a long service life, with a plastic one in a separate apartment is recommended only if the housing is located on the top floor.

Feasibility of replacement

If the sewer riser on the upper floor is being replaced, be sure to preserve the ventilation pipe that goes to the roof. The purpose of this pipe is to equalize the pressure in drain pipes. If it is missing, the operation of the water seals is disrupted and the smell of sewage appears in the apartments.

Replacing a sewer system in a private house is a less difficult task, since you don’t have to negotiate with neighbors. But in general, replacing a sewer riser in an apartment building and in a private building requires the same operations.

Replacing the sewer riser in an apartment is advisable if a leak appears on the pipe. In this case, repairs can be made temporarily. If it leaks, then you need to think not about how to seal the leak, but about how to change the sewer riser in the apartment.

Of course, if it leaks slightly, there is no urgent need to install a new one. Moreover, this is not so easy to do in multi-storey buildings. At the first stage, you will have to decide how to seal the leak. The answer to the question of how to seal a hole depends on the location and size of the leak.

If the holes are small, it can be repaired by wrapping it in several layers of gauze soaked in epoxy. If longitudinal cracks appear on the sewer riser, they should be covered with sealant; if the damage is large, we seal them with two-component “cold welding”.

Initial stage of work

Let's figure out how to install a sewer riser. At the first stage, we will prepare the material that is needed for work. For the home handyman required:

  • Rubber cuff, designed for installation in a cast iron socket.
  • A plastic tee (diameter 110/110/100 mm) or a plastic cross (diameter 110/110/110/50), which has a fifty-millimeter bend in the desired direction.
  • Pipe with a diameter of 110 mm, the height of the pipe is determined depending on the height of the ceilings.
  • Compensator of the same diameter for installation between pipes.
  • A plastic adapter equipped with rubber cuffs for connection to the top tube, since it does not have a bell.


  • Clamps that will be used to attach the new riser to the wall.
  • Plastic bends of the appropriate diameter at an angle of 45°, which may be required for its alignment or displacement.

Advice! If revisions were installed on the old riser, then this part must be installed on the new one. The presence of an audit helps to carry out system maintenance. In particular, through the inspection window, risers are cleaned if the sewer system is clogged. Before starting work, it is necessary to warn neighbors living in the apartments above about the need to refrain from using water supply and sewerage during the work. It’s even better not to count on your neighbors’ understanding, but to first turn off the water so that there’s simply nothing to pour into the sewer.

Dismantling

You should start with dismantling work on the sewer riser. They need to be done correctly, otherwise problems with neighbors will not be avoided after replacement.

  • the distance from the distributor tee to the first cut should be 1 meter;
  • the distance from the ceiling to the top cut on the pipe is about 8 centimeters.
  • Next, the chisel is driven into the cut made by tapping its handle with a hammer.


  • After several blows to the chisel, the pipe will burst evenly along its entire diameter.
  • The same operation should be done in the upper part of the pipe, after which a piece of the old riser should be removed.
  • Next, you need to carry out caulking to remove the pipe from the socket.

Installation of a new riser

  • A rubber adapter cuff is placed on the top of the pipe. It is put on a cast iron riser coming from the apartment above. The connection is coated with sealant.
  • Top on rubber cuff a plastic adapter is installed.
  • In the lower part, a second rubber adapter is installed in the socket of the pipe or tee, if it has not been changed.
  • Now you need to measure the pipe with the compensator. To do this, the pipe is inserted into the upper adapter and cut at a level no higher than five centimeters above the socket into which the compensator is inserted. After taking measurements, the parts are connected.


  • The plastic riser should be well secured to the wall using clamps. Otherwise, over time, it may move downward, leading to the formation of a gap.
  • If the tee is also changed during replacement, then the compensator should be installed in the tee. And in the case when two pipes are used, the compensator is installed at the point of their connection.
  • Each connection should be well coated with silicone sealant.

After installation is completed, you can soundproof the sewer riser yourself. Why is this necessary? A plastic pipe is noisier than a cast iron pipe, so if you do not soundproof it, the noise from the drained water after someone uses the toilet will be heard throughout the apartment.

Such a “close connection” between the bathroom and living rooms obviously superfluous, so soundproofing is a dire necessity. Sound insulation can be carried out different ways. Most often used soundproofing material based on foamed polymer.

Cleaning

If the riser is clogged, it is not necessary to replace this part. Let's figure out how to clean a sewer riser. First of all, you should make sure that the riser is clogged. It must be said that this pipe becomes clogged relatively rarely. The formation of blockages in drains, including the drain from the toilet, is much more common.

However, when improper use The riser itself may become clogged. Besides, in old pipe deposits accumulate on the walls, significantly narrowing the lumen. What to do if old risers clog regularly? In this case the best way eliminating the accident will be its replacement.


If the pipe becomes clogged due to a large object entering the system that should not be in the sewer (for example, a rag), then the blockage can be cleared. To extract an extraneous sample, the revision window is used. The distance to which the cable with the hook will have to be lowered depends on the location of the blockage.

How to lower the cable into the riser if access to the inspection is not available? In this case, the toilet can be dismantled. The cable is lowered through the hole to which the outlet from the toilet is connected.

To remove small deposits on the walls, the riser can be flushed using special hydrodynamic machines. Cleaning services are provided by sewer service companies.

The work of replacing the riser cannot be classified as particularly difficult, but it requires care and patience. If you wish, you can clearly see how the sewer riser is replaced - videos on this topic can be found on websites dedicated to construction and repair.

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Sewer riser in an apartment: 5 typical problems and their solutions

I think there is no need to explain to the dear reader what a sewer riser is. But how it is structured, who is responsible for its safety and repair - these are questions that are relevant for many residents of municipal and privatized apartments. I will try to answer these questions, and at the same time tell you how to solve typical problems DIY sewer risers.

Areas of responsibility

Repair and replacement

First, let's figure out who should change the sewer riser in an apartment when it wears out (for example, if the socket of a cast-iron pipe begins to crumble or the ear under the inspection cover falls off).

Resolution No. 354 of the Government of the Russian Federation in paragraph 5 provides a list of elements of the sewer system related to the common property of residents.

The list includes:

  • Sewer outlets;
  • Risers and branches from them to the first butt joint;
  • Exhaust (exhaust) pipes;
  • Cleanings (audits).

The riser (that is, pipes, tees and crosses mounted on a vertical channel for drainage) belongs to the area of ​​responsibility of the housing organization or service company, regardless of the type of housing ownership (state, municipal or privatized).

There are, however, a couple of nuances here.

  1. Tenants have the right to refuse to make repairs to you if you do not pay the rent. An exception is a situation where the emergency condition of the riser can lead to flooding of neighbors. However, in this case, the management company can replace the defective section of the riser with a tee or cross with a smooth pipe, plugging the outlet to your apartment;

  1. Who should repair a riser that you previously replaced yourself? If the act drawn up by representatives of the management company indicates that the leak is a consequence of the residents’ independent intervention in the work utility networks at home, all the consequences of the accident (including compensation for flooded neighbors) will fall on your head. If the act states that the leak is a consequence of natural wear and tear of the riser, all repair costs are again borne by the housing owners.

If you change pipes yourself, be prepared for the fact that all their problems will now become yours.

Blockages

Any clogged riser is a problem management company. Both because the riser belongs to common property, and because if the same floor rag becomes clogged, it is impossible to unambiguously determine its owner.

Even if the blockage occurred between the top and second floors from above, the owners of the upper apartment can quite rightly point out that the drain on the roof is accessible to any visitor to the roof.

In my practice, there were several cases when the cause of a clogged riser was actually garbage (including large ones) thrown into the sewer from the roof.
Among the most exotic cases was a jar made of thick glass.
To remove it, I had to open the cast iron riser.

Device

Alas, it is not always possible for an apartment owner to emergency situation wait for active actions from the management company. Sometimes you have to take matters into your own hands. To understand how to change the sewer riser in an apartment and how to solve some typical sewerage problems, it is advisable to have a good understanding of the structure of the riser.

Elements

Element Description
Pipe Socket pipes 0.3 - 3 meters long form straight sections
Tee Serves to connect a comb (indoor sewage system) or a toilet. The side bend can be straight (90 degrees) or oblique (45 or 60 degrees)
Cross Serves to connect plumbing fixtures located on both sides of it to the riser. In some houses it provides sewerage distribution to two neighboring apartments
Audit Hatch for cleaning the sewer. Plastic revision - a short tee with a threaded cap on the side outlet; cast iron is equipped with ears for attaching the cover to bolts. Tightness is ensured by a rubber gasket. Sometimes, instead of revision, an oblique tee with a plug is used
Fan outlet Exiting the riser beyond the level of the pitched or flat roof. Provides sewerage ventilation and air suction during volley discharge of water. The absence of a drain outlet during a volley discharge can disrupt the operation of water seals of plumbing fixtures

The photo shows the terminals of risers on the roof of an apartment building.

Description

The riser is assembled from socketed cast iron or plastic (PVC, polypropylene, less often polyethylene) pipes. The neck of each pipe must be secured to the main wall with a clamp. The fastening is designed to prevent spontaneous uncoupling of socket joints.

Connections of pipes to each other and to shaped elements (tees, bends, etc.) are made airtight. Sealing prevents leaks Wastewater in case of blockages and penetration of foul-smelling sewer fumes into apartments.

Tightness is ensured:

  • In case of cast iron pipes— chasing the socket with a heel (organic fiber impregnated with oil or bitumen) followed by sealing the socket cement mortar. Filling the socket with molten sulfur is less commonly used;

It is best to mint a cast iron socket yourself using a graphite gland.
It is more durable than the heel and does not require sealing with mortar.

  • In the case of plastic pipes- rubber ring seal. It is installed in a groove on the inside of the socket and tightly covers the pipe inserted into it.

In the basement, the riser turns into a drainage pipe - a horizontal sewer branch connecting several risers with an outlet to the well. It is brought to the roof by a straight pipe of the same diameter that is used between floors; In new buildings, it is common practice to combine 2 - 4 risers with a common waste pipe.

Cleaning inspections should be located:

  • In the basement or, in its absence, on the first floor of the house;
  • Upstairs;
  • In five-story or more tall buildings- every three floors.

Problems and solutions

Replacing the riser between floors

How to replace a sewer riser in an apartment if the tightness of the straight section between the floors, limited by socket joints, is broken?

We will need:

  • Straight pipe (or several pipes) with total length, equal to or slightly less than the length of the section to be replaced;
  • Compensating pipe.

Plastic pipes can be installed in the gap of a cast iron riser.
To combine a plastic socket with a smooth cast-iron pipe, it is enough to thoroughly clean the surface of the latter from layers of paint and rust using a sharp knife or a metal brush.
Replacing a site plastic riser with cast iron pipes is not possible.

All work with the sewer riser begins with thoughtful communication with upper neighbors right up to last floor. They should be asked not to use the plumbing for 1 to 3 hours.

If you have access to the basement, take the time to turn off the cold and hot water along the riser, hanging signs on the valves with the inscription “work in progress in apartment No. ***.” In addition, prepare a deep basin or bucket. My experience shows that among the residents there will always be someone who has forgotten your request and used the toilet.

The procedure is as follows:

If the lower bell is located in the ceiling, it is not necessary to open it. It is enough to add a sewer coupling to the list of necessary items. After the defective area above the ceiling is cut out, it is put on the lower pipe with the outer chamfer previously removed. Further actions are identical to those described above.

Replacing the riser in the ceiling

How is a sewer riser replaced in an apartment if the socket inside the ceiling is damaged?

The most labor-intensive part of the operation is dismantling the ceiling itself. Fortunately, reinforced concrete slab There is no need to chisel: the risers are passed through a technological hole in it and sealed with cement-sand mortar. However, you still have to tinker.

The work begins with dismantling the toilet and all fragile interior items in the lower and upper apartments. If the lower toilet is installed with cement or glue, only the tank is dismantled; the bowl is covered with boards, plywood boards and other available materials. The top toilet almost always has to be removed: the tee or crosspiece to which it is connected must be replaced.

The seal of the riser in the ceiling can be dismantled:

  • Jackhammer;
  • Hammer;
  • Hammer and chisel.

For this purpose, I used an improvised chisel 40 - 50 cm long, made from a sharpened steel rod with a diameter of 30 mm with reinforcement welded on the side, and a sledgehammer on a steel handle.

Further instructions look like this:

  1. We make two cuts on the riser closer to the top of the area being replaced. Cast iron can be cut with a grinder or chopped with a sharp chisel; the plastic pipe is cut with an ordinary garden hacksaw;
  2. By disassembling bell after bell, we completely dismantle the problem area. In the upper apartment, it is often necessary to disconnect plumbing fixtures from the sewer, which makes it difficult to remove the comb from the sockets of the tee or cross;
  3. We assemble the riser from the bottom up. In this case, we immediately fix each socket to the wall with a clamp. The exception is the socket located in the ceiling: it will be securely fixed when the hole is sealed with mortar. In order for the tee or cross to coincide in height with the comb of the upper apartment, the pipe located under it will have to be cut in place;

  1. When assembling the riser in the upper apartment, we use the compensating pipe that is already familiar to us.

Trimming plastic pipes locally is carried out in compliance with a couple of simple rules:

  • WITH inside all burrs are removed. They can catch rags and other debris, causing a blockage;
  • WITH outside the chamfer is removed. It will greatly simplify the assembly of the connection.

If the plastic socket takes a lot of effort to assemble, apply a little liquid soap to the O-ring.

After assembling the riser, formwork is assembled under the ceiling (for example, cut to size and supported from below with several bars plywood board); then two or three reinforcement bars are placed in the hatch, resting on the edges of the hole. Then the technological hole is filled from above with cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1:3. The solution is bayoneted with reinforcement for greater packing density.

Bell leak

A typical problem with old cast iron risers is the destruction of the socket, crushed by the mass of the pipe resting on it. This problem can be solved in two ways:

  1. Replacing a section of the riser with a socket. The procedure is identical to that described above for replacing the riser between floors;
  2. Installation of a rubber band. It can be played by a rubber bandage purchased at a pharmacy or a bicycle inner tube cut to length. The bandage is placed like this:

Leak in the ceiling

Often the cause of sewerage leaks in the ceiling is the subsidence of the lower cast-iron pipe under the influence of its own weight. As a result of subsidence, the upper pipe completely or partially leaves the socket of the lower one, and when the riser is filled with drainage from the ceiling, it begins to flow.

Diagnosing drawdown is quite simple. A sure sign of it is an unpainted strip of cast iron on the sewer riser just below the ceiling. The reason for the subsidence is poor-quality sealing of the technological hole in the ceiling, coupled with unreliable fastening of the pipe to the wall.

The problem is solved like this:

  1. A clamp made of strong rope or thick wire is placed on the pipe;
  2. A strong support is built on the floor of the bathroom from timber, boards or other available material;
  3. Next, the lever principle is applied: the crowbar or pipe rests on a support and is placed under the clamp. The weight of an adult is usually sufficient to lift the pipe to its original position;
  4. The riser is then secured with clamps to the main wall. For temporary fixation, a pair of wooden wedges driven into the lower socket can be used;
  5. The socket is re-embossed with a heel or gland and sealed with cement mortar.

Blocked riser

If the water level in your bathtub and toilet rises even when the taps are closed, this is a sure sign of a clogged sewer riser or drain. What to do in this case?

To clean the riser the following can be used:

  • At a small (up to 2 - 3 meters) distance from the nearest revision to the blockage - a sewer cable;

Plumbing cable. The price of the tool is from 150 rubles.

Your task is to gain access to the nearest revision or tee located above the blockage.

Cleaning the riser from bottom to top is a very bad idea. When cleaning, a column of sewage several meters high will cover you and everything around with an even layer of a substance with an unforgettable aroma.

It is better to clean the riser together. One person pulls the cable or wire, preventing it from folding into loops, and rotates the handle; the second delivers the tool to the blockage. After the water has drained, continue to rotate the cable on the way back: this way you will not allow the cause of the blockage caught by the hook to float freely again.

If the cable or wire does not pass the blockage, you can try to clear the riser from the roof. For this purpose, a crowbar tied to a strong rope is lowered into the fan pipe. The length of the rope should not allow the crowbar to rest against the connection of the riser with the ladder: in my memory, there were cases when the crowbar pierced the cast iron bend right through.

Conclusion

I hope that my recommendations will help the reader in the unequal struggle with sewage. As usual, additional useful information can be found in the video in this article. Please feel free to share in the comments. own experience. Good luck, comrades!

July 15, 2016

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Plastic pipes for sewerage in last years are used everywhere and replace with great success cast iron pipes.

And there are many reasons for this. Let's consider the advantages of plastic pipes for external and internal sewerage.

1. Light weight.

2. Easy installation. The plastic is easy to cut and easier to connect.

3. Durability. Service life is at least 50 years.

4. Price. Several times cheaper than cast iron.

1. Light weight.

Assembling a sewer system from plastic pipes is very simple.
They are easy to move from one place to another, transport over long distances, and lay.
Even a two-meter pipe can be installed by one person (this will not work with a cast iron one).

2. Easy installation.

The plastic is easy to cut and easier to connect.

3. Durability.

Plastic pipes Plastic sewer pipes are resistant to aggressive environments,
To high humidity, to corrosion. Therefore, they can last quite a long time. The plastic manufacturer provides a fifty-year warranty period for its product. In reality, pipes last much longer.

4. Resistance to blockages.

The inner surface of plastic pipes is practically free of roughness. Therefore, dirt settles inside the system very slowly. And blockages rarely occur. After laying the sewer system, you can forget about cleaning it for several decades.

5. Immunity to temperature changes.

Exist plastic pipes for external sewerage, which can withstand frosty winters well.

Disadvantages of plastic sewer pipes:

1. Noisy.

The plastic sewer system is noisy. This deficiency is especially noticeable in apartment buildings, where one riser is installed for several families.

2. Sensitivity to high temperatures.

The average operating temperature is from forty to ninety degrees above zero. With more high temperatures Most plastics soften. But this drawback cannot be perceived as significant, because The temperature in the sewer is not that high.