The proximity of some plants is favorable. For example, basil can help grapes develop more actively, and roses can help resist pests.
Lenz Moser's experience: what to plant with grapes
Significant research on the compatibility of plants with grapes was carried out by the famous Austrian winegrower Lenz Moser, who tested more than 170 cultivated and wild plants and outlined his findings in the book “Viticulture in a New Way.” The vine growing in his clean soil did not always feel better than with its neighbors. The grapes overwintered and developed better when its row spacing was tinned with certain plants, or they grew nearby. Different weeds also affected the grapes differently. On the control row spacing, Moser constantly kept the soil clean, on the rest he destroyed weeds from March to July, but from August the weeds grew freely there, late autumn they were plowed under. The result was visible from afar - the bushes that grew on soil without weeds were almost twice as slow in growth. Moser advised winegrowers who cannot sow green manure from the list of beneficial grains to leave naturally growing weeds in the vineyard, unless they are malicious. If among them there are more sow thistles, wheatgrass or bells, it is better to use sowing cultivated plants. Even single weeds of this type, growing close to the grape trunk, had an adverse effect, and no less strongly than their entire groups.
Modern observations: what depresses grapes
Many winegrowers agree with Moser’s observations that calendula (marigold) inhibits young seedlings and even adult grapes when adjacent within a radius of up to 3 m. There is no disagreement that yarrow and parsley negatively affect young seedlings (one can notice a clear developmental delay), but there is no noticeable negative effect on adult grapes. Proximity closer than 3 meters to perennial colored peas and clary sage is clearly harmful for grapes.
Modern observations: what helps grapes
Dill, sorrel, celandine and strawberries have a good effect on the vine - seedlings next to them are less sick. Where sorrel grows, both adult grapes and young seedlings give stronger growth even with insufficient watering. Let's add to the compatible (neutral) bulbs - hyacinths, daffodils, tulips. Basil, borage and spinach promote intensive growth and development of grapes, as they contain biologically active substance- saponin.
Grapes and roses
It is known that in Europe, for a long time, a rose bush was planted at the beginning of a grape row (or in front of a trellis). It seemed that the roots of such a beautiful neighborhood lie in tradition medieval Europe. The horses grazed where they wanted, but after being pricked thorny bush roses, turned back and did not trample the vineyards. Yes, and that's why too. But also in memory of a later sad event, when the grape pest phylloxera, brought to Europe from the New World in the 19th century, destroyed almost all the vineyards of France and neighboring countries. Roses and grapes in the garden are ideal neighbors. Both their agricultural technology and shelter (for covering varieties) are the same. A rose bush at the beginning of a row indicates whether the vine is healthy. Their pests and diseases are the same, and the rose gets sick first, as an indicator warning of the danger threatening the grapes, and the winegrower can have time to carry out preventive treatments. There are far fewer diseases and pests in the grape-growing north than in the south, but they still exist.
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T What did he call one of the sections of his book? "Viticulture in a new way" famous Austrian winegrower Lenz Moser. He noticed that the growth and yield of grape bushes largely depended on the plants adjacent to them. L. Moser conducted numerous experiments to study the compatibility of grapes with other plants. It has been found that some are beneficial to grapes, stimulating their growth, while others have an adverse effect on them.
Plants useful for grapes: sorrel, sow peas, onions, garden radishes, cauliflower, radishes, spinach, red beets, purslane, spring vetch, melon, hare cabbage, aster, strawberries, carrots, annual phlox, cucumber, fava beans, forget-me-not, rye, dill, bush beans, watercress, poppy seeds, etc.
Plants neutral for grapes: garlic, kohlrabi, oats, mustard, pumpkin, spring rape, Savoy and Brussels sprouts.
Plants slightly harmful to grapes: eggplant, phacelia, shepherd's purse, black elderberry, parsley, physalis, potato (late), barley, pepper, coltsfoot, celery, caraway seeds, chickweed, sage.
Plants - antagonists of grapes: dandelion, sunflower, wormwood, stinging nettle and stinging nettle, plantain, marigold, small petal, lettuce, cloves, leek, wheatgrass, tomatoes, chives, millet, gaillardia, tansy, horseradish, field bindweed, corn and others.
Knowledge of these features of plant relationships is important for owners of small plots who are trying to rationally use every piece of land. Many amateur winegrowers plant vegetables, flowers and other plants in the rows of the vineyard.
In this regard, it is difficult to resist and not cite as an example the long-term observations of Tamara Georgievna Ivanova, a resident of Ulyanovsk, which she shared in the magazine “Homestead Farming”, 1996, No. 8. “My thoughts are occupied with grapes all year round. And the main thing is how to arrange other plants so as not to damage it...
I checked thoroughly and made sure that perennial plants are friends with grapes: chives, lungwort, strawberries, especially strawberries. Pharmaceutical chamomile, which I also love very much, does not prevent him from growing. But I had to find a place further from the vines for peppermint, lemon, menthol, and cold mint. And how useful sage is for us, thanks to which I am not afraid of toothache, and lofant - a plant that prevents the aging of the body and can treat the facial nerve, and I plant them no closer than 2 m from the grapes.
But it gets along well with earthen almonds - chufa. I have grapes on a trellis, and under them a chufa carpet, and both produce a harvest... Each plant requires its own conditions for growth and development. Japanese quince grows well under grapes if the vines do not create continuous shade. Gets along with vines and hyssop. It even seems that it insulates the grapes.
The same can be said about gladioli, peonies, beans, and cucumbers. There are different opinions about the compatibility of grapes and nuts. Therefore, I want to talk about my observations. In my garden near Ufa, I grew 108 varieties of grapes.
Among the other plants was a nine-year-old manchurian nut. I shaped its crown in the shape of a palm tree. The side branches “started” from a height of 2.5 m, the crown was more than 5 m in diameter, and it grew in height to almost 7 m. At 20 cm from its trunk, just under its crown, from west to east, a a metal single-plane trellis 2.2 m high. The vines of Early Alma-Ata and Beauty of the North grew beautifully on it. 2.5 m from the walnut trunk from south to north (half a meter from the wall of the dacha) is another trellis, on which the vines of the Russian Concord also spread freely. On the other side of the path, 2.5 m from the walnut trunk, three more trellises stood one after the other from west to east. Grapes of the varieties Yangier, Kuibyshevsky early ripening, Ais, etc. grew on them. The vines of an 11-year-old bush of the Taiga variety stretched above the roof of the dacha at a height of 6 m from the ground. The crown of the nut tree leaned over the vines during the wind. There was no more than 40–50 cm between the grape and nut leaves. And there was nothing to indicate that anyone was oppressing anyone. Nearby grew two more bushes of common barberry and viburnum, showered with fruits every autumn.
I observed good compatibility between grapes and ginseng. For many years, grapes have been growing above the plantings of this plant, creating shade and moist air for it... From perennial plants
under the grapes, without disturbing either them or themselves, wild garlic, multi-tiered onions, thick-leaved bergenia, pink radiola, and Iremel radiola grow.
Looking through my notes, I compiled a list of plants for compatibility with grapes, dividing them into three groups.
First group. Plants grow especially well under grape vines: chufa, lentils, chives, Rhodiola rosea, Rhodiola Iremel.
In the second group, the following are quite compatible: herbaceous heart-shaped aralia, Japanese quince, chervil, carrots, bergenia, sweet potato, cauliflower and early cabbage, peas, gladioli, Moldavian snakehead, wild garlic, onion, safflower-shaped Leuzea, lunaria, nasturtium, cucumbers, peonies , sweet peppers, squash, parsley, radishes, beets, pumpkins, escholzia, Manchurian nuts, strawberries.
I listed only those plants that are not listed in L. Moser’s book “Viticulture in a New Way.” Based on these and other observations, we can highlight some features that are important for northern winegrowers. First of all, plants grown near grape bushes should be of small height so as not to shade the bushes, especially in the area where the bunches are located, and not to interfere with the ventilation of the bushes. If grape bushes are covered for the winter, then it is undesirable to plant perennial and bulbous flowers near them. Ornamental plants it is better to place in small groups, clumps, keeping in mind that continuous planting of plants near grape bushes negatively affects thermal mode soil and ground air
Many gardeners are faced with the fact that there is less and less space on their plot, and they want to plant many different crops. I see only two ways out of this situation: either by an effort of will to limit the unbridled desire, or to find some new ways to increase the “opportunities” of the beds. For example, grow other crops along with grapes.
About three years ago we disbanded the garden bed with remontant garden strawberries, which was located next to the vineyard. Some mustaches survived because they managed to crawl under the grape bushes. There the strawberries took root and grew. She felt great, although the berry harvest was scanty. The grapes clearly liked the proximity to strawberries. Self-seeding dill grew well nearby. Apparently, the grapes were not irritated by this proximity. The garlic planted nearby was strong and tall, although its heads were smaller than we expected. It may be a coincidence, but there were no wasps at all on the side of the vineyard where the garlic was located. Eggplants fared the worst. The seedlings planted between the grape bushes weakened and practically did not increase in size. I had to remove it. Several grape bushes under which it was planted had problems. These unsystematized observations of the joint cultivation of grapes and other crops became the beginning of a serious study of this issue.
The mutual influence of plants interests many gardeners and gardeners. We all know that plants can help their neighbors, make them feel worse, or maintain neutral relationships. Fierce wars are sometimes waged not only on the surface of the beds, but also underground. Where the roots are. We are not talking about a massive seizure of territories, when the main culture has neither space nor normal nutrition. Even single plants growing nearby can have an effect.
Books by N. Kurdyumov and Lenz Moser helped me figure out whether it is worth planting grapes together with other crops or keeping them isolated from them. The work “Viticulture in a New Way” by the famous Austrian winegrower Lenz Moser confirmed my observations and the reliability of the opinions of familiar Ukrainian and Moldavian gardeners. In addition, the vast experience of this practitioner made it possible to substantiate bold conclusions. He warned that it is important to take into account the location of the site, the original structure of the soil, the age and nature of the formation of the grapes, the time of year, climate and many other circumstances. Such a huge amount of factual material has been analyzed that the experience of Lenz Moser deserves trust.
There are many plants that improve the condition of grapes. Lenz Moser wrote:
The idea that grapevines grow best on bare soil is just an old superstition. ... Grains get along well with the roots of the vine. Low-growing types of clover, vetch, peas, quinoa, speedwell, and so on also do not cause harm. Woodlice, sedum, and some mosses even promote the growth of the vine.
Here is a list of plants that have a positive effect on grapes. They are listed in alphabetical order:
Asters, arabis (alpine rhizome), aubriecia, fava beans, spring vetch, viola (Pansy), gypsophila (kachim), peas, field buckwheat, doricnium, fumaria, melon, strawberries, cereals (many), common groundsel, onion onions, alfalfa, mallow, chard, chickweed, forget-me-nots, cucumbers, sedum (white and hare cabbage), purslane, primrose, radish, soft wheat, mignonette, rye, beets (table and sugar), scorciera (black root), soybean, prickly tartar (thistle), dill, drummond phlox, cauliflower, greater celandine, garden spinach, sorrel, sainfoin, multileaf ulcer.
There are other plants that are less desirable for grapes. Lenz Moser noted:
Harmful grapevine wild field radish, shepherd's purse, field mustard, bluebells, field sow thistle, great nettle, carrots, celery, scilla, wormwood, St. John's wort and others.
The list of these plants is also quite long. I present them in alphabetical order:
Amaranth (amaranth), eggplant, whiteweed (hairy, black, etc.), thistle (sow thistle), blue cornflower, field bindweed, small-flowered galinsoga, gaillardia, cloves, knotweed, elecampane, elecampane, calendula (marigold), potato, clematis (clematis), nettle (all types), leeks, toadflax, white pigweed, canadian spurge, cypress spurge, hemp, corn, meadow bluegrass, dandelion, parsley, capsicum (sweet and bitter), black nightshade, tansy, plantain (large, lanceolate), sunflower, wormwood (common, field, bitter), millet, creeping wheatgrass, ryegrass, lettuce, rapeseed, tomatoes, yarrow, horseradish, aromatic china, chives, curly sorrel, glaucous bristle grass, green (setaria), field parsley.
Weeds are found both among enemy plants and among grape plant friends. Lenz Moser noted:
The bushes that grew in weed-free soil were almost half stunted in growth, and the soil itself was bare, rocky and hard, while nearby it was soft and loose. In row spacing without green fertilizer, the soil could only be cultivated wet, in this case large blocks were turned out, drying out the next day. The harvest of these bushes was not as bad as might have been expected, taking into account the growth of the aboveground part of the bushes. Subsequently, I stopped the experiment and sowed abundant green fertilizer, since I realized that without this the bushes would die in about 10 years.
The growth of weeds in spring and the first half of summer takes away a lot of nutrients and moisture from the grapes. At this time, there is intensive growth of aboveground and underground parts of the bushes. It is necessary to cultivate the row spacing in planting annual and biennial bushes. “But from the third year, the row spacing can already be sown with grasses. For this purpose, you can use mixtures of low-growing types of clover, park turf mixture or other low-growing grasses, for example, chickweed, daisy, etc. ... You can leave naturally growing weeds in the vineyard, if they are not malicious. If sow thistle, wheatgrass or bluebells predominate among them, it is better to sow cultivated plants to prevent the widespread spread of harmful weeds, since their foci are very difficult to eliminate.
This clarification is interesting:
There is no need to cultivate the soil in close proximity to the trunk and roots. In many cases, this is even dangerous, as it can damage the plants.
Weeds also have to be removed when the bushes are low and densely planted.
Here we must completely destroy weeds, primarily because of mildew. If weeds grow to the clusters and even outgrow them, the clusters die from the fungus, despite all means of protection. It wasn't like that in the old days. Before mildew appeared in the vineyards, our neighbors “cultivated” mainly wild millet, as well as some other weeds, and successfully used them as forage grasses. There is no doubt that it was thanks to this vegetation that the vineyards remained healthy for centuries.
In 1941 - 1943, Lenz Moser was not able to care for the vineyard (about 0.5 hectares), which was located on a mountainous plot. The land was overgrown with tall weeds: thistle, nettle, quinoa, etc. However, the vineyards occupied by herbs grew, and they were preserved during the war years with virtually no damage.
For grapes, it is important that the soil is structured. The roots of green manure plants “penetrate deep into the soil, thereby creating a connection between the deep soil horizons and the external environment. When these roots die, the cavities they leave behind are quickly filled by the grape roots that are found here. nutrients in an easily digestible form. After embedding, the green mass and roots decompose, turning into the best and cheapest humus.” And since the roots of such plants penetrate very deeply (up to two meters), when they decompose, nutrients end up at great depths.
As a green fertilizer, you can sow vetch, peas, oats, barley, buckwheat, kale, rye, wheat, alfalfa, reps and some other fast-growing crops that produce a lot of green mass from the end of July. They are plowed in in the fall. In spring, grasses can use up the moisture from winter precipitation that grapes need.
Lenz Moser attached great importance to living in the soil of the vineyards. earthworms.
A vineyard with a lot of earthworms in the soil is in good condition, but if they are completely absent, the development of the grape bushes worsens. If densely growing plants sown with green manure are rolled down and left to lie down for several weeks, they form an excellent cover on the soil surface.
Under it, earthworms breed in huge numbers. In soils poor in humus they are almost absent.
To ensure that the grasses in the spring and first half of summer do not take away a lot of moisture and nutrients from the grape bushes, they should be mowed regularly, leaving the green mass on the soil. Over time, a covering layer will build up - the basis of humus, which inhibits the growth of grasses.
In the ninth year after sowing the herbs in the vineyard, a humus layer 6-8 cm thick formed covering the soil, and the soil is soft like a Persian carpet, due to which it completely absorbs moisture even from the heaviest precipitation, soil erosion or water runoff even on steep slopes completely excluded.
Lenz Moser noted that this technique is only possible with mature and strong grape bushes. Their harvest increases greatly. In young and weak bushes, some suppression of growth may be observed at first. For example, barley inhibits the growth of seedlings, but later only brings benefits.
Some of the conclusions made by Lenz Moser seem very bold. The author understood this perfectly. People who visited his vineyards “said they would never have believed anything like this unless they had seen it with their own eyes.”
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For every gardener and gardener there remains topical issue about which plants should be planted nearby. The author of the book “The Melange Garden,” Russian agronomist B.V. Bublik and the American farmer D. Jevans, in the book “How to Grow More Vegetables...”, described in detail the interaction of various cultivated plants that are most often grown in Middle lane Russia. Of course, to get good harvest it is necessary not only to choose the right plants for adjacent beds, but also to provide them with good care. Then all crops will bear fruit successfully and the harvest will be guaranteed.
➣ They are distinguished by high production of allelopathic substances ash, wormwood and wheatgrass. Where these plants appear, all others, especially cultivated ones, immediately stop growing. You should not leave the listed weeds between the beds or along the perimeter of the garden.
Scientific experiments with labeled atoms have proven that substances secreted by mustard roots enhance the growth of crops such as peas. Legumes, in turn, are released into the soil a large number of nitrogenous substances, which is not acceptable for all plants. However, bush beans grow well next to legumes.
Peas are also a good neighbor for many vegetable crops (tomatoes, potatoes, corn, carrots, cucumbers, radishes, turnips, beans) and herbs (mustard). Peas are planted between the rows of these crops. Next to this representative of the Legume family, you can successfully grow lettuce, eggplant, spinach, celery. If you plant cabbage or other cruciferous vegetables next to peas, its roots will be protected from rotting. You can find out which family the most common crops grown in central Russia belong to from the table.
Beans grow well next to cucumbers. They can be planted around cucumber beds. This culture also combines favorably with potatoes, sweet corn, mustard, radishes, radishes, spinach. It is recommended to plant beans between these plants. Oregano, borage, yarrow and rosemary are good neighbors for beans.
|
Family |
|
|
Peas, beans, beans, soybeans, clover |
|
|
Borage |
Borage (borage) |
|
Buckwheat |
Buckwheat, rhubarb, sorrel |
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Lamiaceae |
Basil, lemon balm, mint, snakehead, hyssop, marjoram, oregano, sage, savory, thyme |
|
Cereals |
Corn, oats, wheat, rye, barley |
|
Cruciferous |
Rutabaga, cabbage (red and white cabbage, kohlrabi, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, Beijing sprouts, broccoli, etc.), radish, radish, turnip, horseradish, spinach, mustard |
|
Liliaceae |
Garlic, onions (onions, leeks, shallots, chives, etc.) |
|
Beetroot, chard |
End of table.
|
Family |
|
|
Umbrella |
Anise, chervil, coriander, lovage, carrots, celery, parsnip, parsley, caraway, dill, fennel |
|
Solanaceae |
Potatoes, tomato, pepper, eggplant, physalis, petunia, allspice |
|
Compositae |
Asters, marigolds, calendula, pyrethrum, lettuce, sunflower, chamomile, zinnia, yarrow, tarragon |
|
Pumpkin |
Watermelon, melon, zucchini, cucumbers, squash, pumpkin |
Representatives of plants of the Liliaceae family ( different kinds onions and garlic) grow very well next to plants of the Apiaceae family (carrots, radishes, celery, parsley and parsnips) and Cruciferous vegetables (cabbage).
The proximity to tomatoes, lettuce, strawberries, potatoes, cucumbers. Flowers can be planted nearby petunias, chamomile. It is useful to plant savory and chamomile in small quantities around the onion beds.
Various vegetable crops successfully coexist in beds with white and black radish.
For many plants, spinach is located nearby.
Its roots release saponins into the soil, which enhance the growth of many crops (potatoes, tomatoes, beets, beans). Spinach also creates a special microclimate around itself. Its leaves cover the soil and keep it moist and loose. In this regard, spinach is often used as an accompanying plant. It is planted between rows of plants with slower growth, and while the main crops are just sprouting, spinach has time to grow and creates favorable conditions for them. Near bush beans
Root vegetables such as radishes grow well. This proximity has a positive effect on its taste and size, and also protects it from damage by worms and cabbage flies. It is recommended to plant radishes 2 weeks before planting bush beans.
Watercress and nasturtium will also help you grow large radishes. It will be useful for beans if you plant a little celery nearby. Beans grow well with
cucumbers, corn, cabbage, strawberries, pumpkin, beets, carrots. The taste of beans is positively influenced by savory growing nearby. Good neighbors for vegetable plants sometimes they are spices
and flowers. For example, amaranths have a positive effect on eggplants. You can plant lettuce between the eggplants and basil around them.
For watermelons, nearby areas with potatoes, oats, corn and peas will be useful. For melon, the only good neighbor is radish. Cabbage has many types. The most popular of them are cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, and kohlrabi. They grow better next to onions (any), beans, herbs (mint, chamomile, sage, dill)
. Potatoes have a positive effect on the taste of cabbage, so these plants are suitable for mixed planting.
Dill sown between the rows of cabbage significantly improves its taste. For the most common type of cabbage, white cabbage, the best plants
Broccoli grows well next to onions, lettuce, beets and celery.
Good neighbors for potatoes in the garden are eggplants, beans, cabbage (especially cauliflower), corn, carrots, beets, lettuce, radishes, beans, horseradish, garlic, and herbs and flowers - amaranths, nasturtium, tansy, coriander, spinach. With mixed planting, potatoes turn out to be more resistant to diseases.
Corn creates shade next to itself in which it grows well cucumbers, watermelons, pumpkin. Bush and climbing corn are favorable neighbors for corn itself. beans, potatoes, soybeans.
Legumes enrich the soil with nitrogen, which is very necessary for corn, which, in turn, brings climbing plants useful as a support. Also You can plant tomatoes, lettuce, and sunflowers next to corn.
Pepper goes well with basil. These plants help each other grow.
The place next to the cucumbers is suitable for peas, white and cauliflower, kohlrabi, radishes, onions, lettuce, celery, beets, parsley, sunflowers and beans. Tansy and sow thistle also have a positive effect on cucumbers. Dill sown among cucumbers prolongs their fruiting period, and therefore increases the yield.
For parsnips, a place next to legumes and radishes.
You can plant celery next to the bed tomatoes, cabbage, leeks, bush beans. In the shade of these plants, celery grows more fragrant.
The following crops are planted with lettuce: legumes, carrots, cucumbers and radishes.
Tomatoes have good compatibility in beds next to onions, garlic, carrots, parsley and many flowering plants. If there are nettles next to the tomatoes, they will have a more pronounced taste. Monarda tubulara also contributes to the growth of this favorite vegetable crop and the improvement of its taste characteristics.
To get a good harvest of beets, it is useful to plant nearby carrots, cabbage (except cauliflower), radishes, lettuce, parsley and dill.
For a pumpkin you can choose the following neighbors: corn, nasturtiums. A sow thistle growing nearby can be helpful.
The place next to the radish is suitable for carrots, cucumbers, parsnips, beets, tomatoes, pumpkins, and spinach.
Spicy herbs are released into external environment a large number of aromatic substances with volatile properties. Thus, they affect those plants that are planted nearby. Spicy herbs are widely used in cooking and medicine and are often found in gardens among vegetables and berry plants. It is also necessary to select them correctly for joint plantings.
Most vegetables are favorably affected by parsley, borage, lavender, marjoram, hyssop, chervil, chamomile, savory, thyme, sage, and dill growing nearby. Dandelion helps vegetables and apple trees grow. This plant produces environment a substance (ethylene) that accelerates the ripening of fruits.
Many herbs release substances into the environment that have a beneficial effect on other plants (repel pests, disinfect the air, enhance growth). Such plants are called satellite plants. These include anise, basil, mustard leaves, coriander, hyssop, mint, marjoram, lemon balm, cumin, dill.
Some herbs can enhance aromatic properties each other. For example, if you plant yarrow next to nettles, it will be more fragrant, and if you plant mint, its content will increase. essential oils 2 times.
➣ If you plant an oak, birch, linden or poplar next to the garden, then the fruit trees will be in comfortable conditions and they will get sick less and bear fruit well. These trees can be placed in the garden plot or along the edges of the garden.
Oregano and marjoram have a positive effect on the growth and taste of many cultivated plants.
The snakehead (Turkish mint) creates shade in which cucumbers feel good, which is reflected in their productivity.
Coriander is a good neighbor for anise, cumin and many vegetables. It has a positive effect on the soil structure, and therefore vegetables can be planted next to overwintered coriander without digging up the garden bed.
It is useful to plant hyssop next to grapes; this significantly increases the yield of the latter.
Lovage can be planted anywhere in the garden. He is helpful neighbor for many vegetables and improves their taste, increases resistance to disease.
Mint is found in many gardens. This plant is useful to plant next to tomatoes and cabbage. The harvest will be more abundant and the taste of vegetables will improve. Mint grows well among sorrel. The main thing is to make sure that the mint does not grow too much.
Strawberries grow better next to borage. It is important not to let it grow and trim the bushes in a timely manner. Borage also increases the resistance of other plants to various diseases. It enhances the growth of peas, cabbage, onions, beans, and many herbs.
Parsley has a positive effect on the taste of tomatoes. You can plant it around rose bushes. A good combination is parsley and onions. First, in the spring, parsley seeds are sown in rows, and after 2 weeks, leek seedlings are planted between them. Both crops will grow well.
The following crops grow well next to celery: onions, cabbage, cucumbers, tomatoes, beans, spinach.
A plant such as rue goes well on the site with vegetable and flower crops, as well as fruit trees and bushes.
Dill grows by self-sowing in many gardens. This does not always have a positive effect on the harvest. The roots of this plant secrete substances that are not beneficial to all vegetables. Therefore, it is better to plant dill specifically next to lettuce, cabbage, onions, cucumbers.
Sage is a useful neighbor for all types of cabbage and carrots, as well as strawberries.
Thyme has a beneficial effect on nearby vegetables and improves their taste. It is especially suitable for tomatoes, eggplants and potatoes. Savory improves the growth of eggplants.
Some weeds can be useful neighbors for cultivated plants. Japanese farmer-scientist Masanobu Fukuoka, founder of one of the trends in organic farming, came to the conclusion that there is no need to carry out continuous weeding in fields and vegetable gardens or use herbicides. He believes that weeds contribute their share to maintaining soil fertility and balance in biogeocenoses. M. Fukuoka recommends not completely destroying weeds, but periodically mowing them or limiting their growth using mulching. He also advises creating a grass cover in soil gardens from beneficial weeds or green manure. This has become common in Japan and it is extremely rare to find bare soil in gardens there. At insufficient humidity soils in dry areas tree trunk circles around the trees they are left free for watering and care, and the rest of the area in the gardens is planted with ground cover green manure. This principle can also be applied in small private gardens. In large free areas among ground cover plants, you can place beds with cultivated plants (vegetables, herbs). For example, small islands of thistle in the garden promote the growth of onions, corn and tomatoes. The main thing is not to allow this weed to grow.
Various herbs are used for planting between rows in vineyards. Plants useful for grapes additionally protect the soil from being washed away by water during watering and from drying out. Corn brings the greatest benefit to grape growth. For him good neighbors There are also auxiliary vegetable crops - oilseed radish and radish. Parsley has a healing effect on vineyards. Peas, onions, cauliflower, watercress, and beets promote the growth of grapes. Less significant for increasing grape yields are beans, strawberries, carrots, cucumbers, melon, and dill.
Of the trees and shrubs compatible for grapes are pear, Chinese lemongrass and actinidia. These plants can be planted next to each other. You can also plant grapes and actinidia around a fence or gazebo.
Grape yields can also be increased by: flower plants, for example, asters, geraniums, forget-me-nots, phlox. Irises planted nearby do not bring any benefit, but do not harm this plant either.
From plants you can create around the garden or vegetable garden hedge. At the same time, shrubs for it need to be selected taking into account not only decorativeness or height, but also compatibility with the plants being grown. Hedges made of privet, elderberry, spirea, and rose hips are beautiful and useful for harvest. These shrubs have a healing effect on the garden. In the garden, growing cherries and raspberries next to each other significantly increases the yield. Apple tree and raspberry heal each other. Raspberries accumulate nitrogen and increase the oxygen content in the soil, which turns out to be beneficial for the apple tree. It is recommended to plant these crops close to each other, but make sure that the raspberries do not grow too much.
The combination of barberry with plum or honeysuckle in the garden has a positive effect on the harvest.
Strawberries and some plants grow well under sea buckthorn. medicinal plants(oregano, chamomile). It is useful to plant onions between currant bushes and leave them in the winter.
Hawthorn grows well at a distance of 4 m from cherries. If these trees are planted closer, the hawthorn will end up in the shade and wither away.
Apple and pear trees are good neighbors. A distance of at least 3.5-4 m is maintained between them, otherwise when the trees grow, they will be cramped and the effect will be the opposite.
The dogwood grows safely and bears fruit next to the apricot. You can even plant these plants close to each other and they will still be compatible. Dogwood can grow even with walnut, which is a solitary plant. Next to it, all other cultivated plants grow poorly.
It is permissible to plant plums and cherries at a distance of 5 m from each other. They will bear fruit well. The plum should not be allowed to get between the cherries and the cherries. In such conditions the tree will die.
For strawberries, parsley, bush beans, and spinach located nearby will be useful. You can also plant onions, cabbage, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets and garlic next to it.
If the land plot is zoned for a garden and vegetable garden, then between fruit trees and vegetable crops plant herbs (anise, basil, lemon balm, coriander, parsley, thyme and tarragon).
In order to navigate the choice of cultivated plants for cultivation, as well as the timing of their planting and location on the site, it is recommended to draw a diagram of the garden in advance. This will help to correctly position the beds with different plants, outline mixed plantings, check the compatibility of all plants growing next to each other. Next year, this scheme must be changed according to the rules of crop rotation. To do this, it is necessary to additionally take into account the compatibility of plants with their predecessors.
When selecting plants for adjacent beds, it is also necessary to take into account the fact that some plants are protectors against any diseases or pests (animals, insects, worms).
Plant compatibility can be used to increase overall yield in other ways. Plants for compacted plantings are also selected taking into account the height and volume they occupy. By choosing the right plants, you can make compacted beds.
Plants planted next to each other will not interfere with each other, but, on the contrary, will mutually enhance growth. Caring for them is almost the same, so they grow comfortably in the same bed.
Condensed plantings can be done simultaneously, i.e. sow the bed with selected crops at once, or in stages. You can harvest some crops and plant others in the vacant space. This approach allows not only to grow healthy and well-bearing plants, but also to save land area.
In compacted beds, the main plant and the compacting plant are distinguished. Usually the latter is more different short term achieving technical maturity.
Eggplants, carrots, corn, zucchini, potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, squash, cucumbers, beets, and celery are often used as the main crops. Compaction crops include onions, cauliflower and Chinese cabbage, lettuce, radishes, beans, pumpkin, garlic, dill. Typically compact and compact crops are used as compaction crops. low growing plants. It is important to correctly place the main and compacting crops on the same bed. For example, the central part of the garden bed can be occupied by beets, and radishes, lettuce, and dill can be planted in rows along the edges.
Compaction crops quickly produce a harvest and are removed from the bed, while the main crop continues to grow until the end of summer or autumn.
➣ Berry bushes can be included in hedges. In this case, the protective barrier turns out to be denser and even prickly. From berry bushes Gooseberries, raspberries, and black currants are suitable for this. Next to each other they bear fruit well.
Plants such as tomato and cabbage take up a lot of space in the beds and are combined with small vegetables - onions, carrots, radishes. Fast-growing crops (bok choy, lettuce, spinach) are convenient to plant as cover crops or after harvesting main crops. For long-growing crops (carrots, parsley), it is recommended to plant plants that quickly reach technical ripeness.
Combinations of tomato and pepper with basil are optimal for compacted beds; cabbage and tomatoes with mint; parsley with tomatoes, peas or strawberries; onions, cucumbers, lettuce or cabbage with dill.
Draw up a plan for your garden better in winter in order to promptly grow seedlings of the necessary vegetable and green crops, prepare beds on the site and successfully plant them in the intended places (Fig. 1,2).
Figure 1. Compacted bed with onions, spinach and carrots
In order for plants in the same bed not to interfere with each other’s growth, it is necessary to take into account not only their allelopathic properties. It is not recommended to plant crops belonging to the same species next to each other, as they will consume the same nutrients from the soil. It should be taken into account that tall plants create shade for shorter plants, which is not always useful for the latter. When combined plantings, it is also necessary to take into account the characteristics of the plant root system. If their roots lie at the same level in the soil, then the impact of colins will be more significant, and competition for nutrients and moisture will increase.
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Figure 2. Compacted bed with
All plants influence each other in one way or another. And this influence can be positive and negative. This phenomenon is studied by the science of allelopathy. A huge contribution to the field of knowledge about the mutual influence of plants was made by Austrian winegrower Lenz Moser (1887-1978).
He is one of the first professional winegrowers to prove the benefits high standards in the formation of grapes, and also conducted a series of experiments on the influence of 174 species weeds and cultivated plants on the growth and fruiting of grapes.
The result of his many years of observation and work was the book "Viticulture in a new way", in which he talks in great detail about caring for grapes and correct selection neighbors for him.
We recommend reading this book, especially since it is freely available in Russian. And in this article we will focus on which plants inhibit the growth of grapes, and which, on the contrary, stimulate vigorous development.
Moser noticed that if there is a grape growing under chickweed, soybean and smoker, then it develops well, the shoots are long and strong, and winter well.
But if they are nearby yarrow, horseradish, wormwood, tansy– the grape bush weakens and loses frost resistance.
Under the same conditions and care, the same picture is observed when growing crops even a few meters from the trunk in the row spacing. Where did you grow up? soybeans, the shoots were strong and overwintered well.
Neighborhood with potatoes did not lead to anything good: the grape shoots grew only half a meter, and in winter a quarter of the bushes froze completely!
For the purity of the experiment Moser left several bushes without grass, in clean soil. The result was surprising: the control bushes turned out to be far from the strongest and most developed.
Some plant neighbors are capable of significantly enhance grape growth.
Contrary to assumption, some weeds with a powerful root system do not inhibit grapes at all, but on the contrary, stimulate their vigorous growth. The impact of neighbors, other things being equal, on grapes can exceed 30%.
