What are adhesive fabric and interlining materials used for, and how to use them?
Adhesive and cushioning materials such as adhesive dublerin, adhesive fabric and adhesive interlining are widely used in sewing clothes, especially shoulder products. They give additional rigidity and shape to parts or areas of clothing, for example, a collar, flap, cuff, etc. Adhesive materials must be used when sewing a jacket, coat, etc. The front, sleeves, and collar of such clothing must “keep their shape” and therefore the fabric it is required to “strengthen” it, to give it additional rigidity.
Such materials (usually fabric-based) have an adhesive coating on one side and are therefore called adhesive fabrics. Not only fabrics, but also materials, such as non-woven fabric, can be adhesive.
This video shows how to duplicate three different types of fabric with fabric adhesive. Each type of fabric (suit, cotton, knitwear) requires a special type of adhesive fabric.
You will no longer need to hem the bottom of your trousers or skirt by hand or using a special machine if you use adhesive double-sided “gossamer” tape.
Often, to give additional rigidity to individual areas of clothing or parts, all kinds of non-adhesive cushioning materials of varying thickness and density are used.
The adhesive fabric or duplicating interlining is selected depending on the density and properties of the fabric of the product used for sewing clothing, a section or a part.
The density (stiffness) of adhesive fabric, dublerin, non-woven fabric is selected depending on the type of fabric of the product (suit fabric, dress fabric, shirt fabric).
Adhesive fabrics are installed not only on fabrics, but also on non-woven materials such as leather, fur, drape, etc.
The thickness and density of the gasket must correspond to the base material of the product.
Heavy, dense fabrics require thicker interfacing, such as dublerin.
For thin fabrics you need to use soft types of non-woven fabric.
For stretchable and elastic fabrics, adhesive pads on a knitted basis are suitable; they will not tear when stretched, etc.
In some cases, adhesive fabrics and cushioning materials are used simultaneously. For example, the collar of a men's shirt is not only glued with adhesive fabric, but sometimes non-adhesive rigid pads are installed in the corners of the collar, which allows the corners of the collar to have a rigid truss for many years.
Those who often sew clothes for themselves should definitely have several types of adhesive fabric and non-adhesive cushioning materials in their sewing supplies kit. Two or three types of non-woven fabric, one type of double linen and always transparent web tape.
Often adhesive fabrics and non-woven materials such as non-woven fabrics are simply called “adhesive”. But this is too general a concept, and in a hardware store, sellers will ask you to clarify what you need, non-woven or double-lined.
Adhesive fabric pads, just like regular fabrics, have a fractional thread direction, and to be precise, they are called fabric-based dublerin. Non-woven adhesive materials are called interlining. It's easy to distinguish them. Dublerin stretches when torn, and non-woven fabric tears like paper.
Dublerin has the direction of the grain thread, so when cutting you need to take this circumstance into account and be sure to pay attention to the recommendations in magazines for ready-made patterns. And if you use your own patterns, then you need to take into account the properties of the gasket for each section of the product separately.
Non-woven pads are a pressed mixture of fibers, so that the sections do not fray. However, even in such gaskets there is a fiber direction. Along the longitudinal web, the gasket stretches slightly less than in the transverse direction.
There are also knitted adhesive fabrics of varying thickness and stiffness. They are elastic and are used for duplicating knitted materials.
Adhesive fabric and non-woven materials come in different densities. From thin and almost transparent to very dense. They can even be painted in different colors.
To choose the most suitable adhesive pad, you need to check how the fabric and pad will look. To do this, you first need to glue a test piece of adhesive onto a piece of fabric. Make several samples with different gaskets. The recommended sizes of fabric samples are a square with a side of 15 cm, spacers - with a side of 10 cm.
All adhesive pads become harder after hot processing, but the degree of this hardness may vary, and you will see this in the samples.
The color of the gasket may also change. Some colored gaskets darken after gluing.
In addition, a test piece of glued padding will clearly show how the fabric itself will change. Sometimes the interlining can form noticeable protrusions on the front surface of the fabric or even damage the structure of the fabric, and can change the color of the main fabric.
See how the fabric drapes with and without interlining. Fold all samples in half and place them on the table surface without pressing them. You will see, comparing with a sample without a gasket: on one sample the gasket is very soft, almost imperceptible, on the other - moderate elasticity, on the third - too hard. Now you can choose the adhesive pad that you need for a specific fabric and a specific model.
It is usually difficult to separate the fabric and the adhesive pad after treatment with a hot iron (fabric-based pads), and in some cases it is completely impossible without leaving a mark on the fabric (mostly non-woven). Make sure that the iron does not touch the adhesive base; it is quite difficult to clean the soleplate of the iron from traces of glue.
There should be no thread scraps, air bubbles or un-glued areas under the gasket.
If you glued the gasket incorrectly, “go” over it with the iron again. If air bubbles still remain, steam the gasket so that it can be separated and glue a new gasket in this place.
If you are using fabric non-adhesive interlining, then before cutting out parts from it, the interfacing material should be decoated. As cushioning material you can use: calico, muslin, lining fabrics.
Knitted interlining materials are usually soft and silky. They can be used to give shape to an entire product or a single part of it, without at the same time increasing the volume, weight or rigidity of the product.
If you want to create an elegant, sophisticated product, never use adhesive pads. The adhesive pad is more suitable for shoulder products such as jackets and coats.
If you are sewing a product from fabrics such as plisse, velvet, corduroy, crepe, gauze, silk or transparent fabric, it is also better not to use an adhesive pad.
The adhesive pad should be applied according to the manufacturer's instructions so that it does not bubble after washing the product. But if you don’t have such instructions, use the following tips:
a) place the product part on the ironing board with the wrong side up;
b) place the gasket part on the product part with the adhesive downwards;
c) cover the gasket with an ironing iron (dry or wet, depending on the properties of the adhesive layer);
d) treat each area of the part with an iron for 10 seconds (without moving it from its place), move the iron to an adjacent area so that the areas being processed overlap; continue these steps until the entire surface of the pad is glued to the fabric (the iron should not slide on the pad while working);
e) turn the product part over, cover with an ironing iron and repeat the gluing process;
f) let the fabric cool and check the adhesion of the gasket to the fabric; if necessary, repeat the entire gluing process again.
Experienced tailors often use 2.5cm bias strips cut from cotton flannel as interfacing on silk or wool garments to create a soft neckline or armhole.
The oblique strip is sewn into the seam connecting the product part with the facing. To do this, place the product part between the bias strip and the facing. Next, you need to cut the bias strip so that it is even and flat when stitching with the product.
If you use Burda Fashion magazines, you know that the sewing instructions contain the types of adhesive fabric and non-adhesive materials that it is advisable to use for the models presented there. But, so that you can navigate your fabric, familiarize yourself with the properties of German gaskets, which you can purchase in specialized stores.
Non-woven fabric H180 is a thin, soft interlining for soft flowing fabrics (silk, viscose).
Interlining H200, H250 - a denser but soft interlining for dense thin fabrics (taffeta, twill, etc.).
Interlining G405 - for dense fabrics, for example, wool, flannel, velor.
Non-woven fabric H31G - denim, fabric for trousers, jackets and coats.
Non-woven fabric F220 - for dense, boil-resistant fabrics.
You now know what adhesive fabric is used for, how to select it for different types of fabrics and how to install it. You also know that interlining is an adhesive cushioning material, and dublerin is an adhesive fabric. It remains to find out what adhesive tape is, with such an elegant name - cobweb.
There are special edge gaskets in the form of tapes of different widths - to strengthen belts, cuffs and trims. In addition, there is a special adhesive material - gossamer. This is a translucent tape with an adhesive coating on both sides. It is convenient to use the adhesive web to secure the hem of the bottom of the product; it can be used to attach a higher-density adhesive pad, applique or patch. It is recommended to stitch the applique after gluing it with a web.
The web is glued in the same way as adhesive fabric with a hot iron. The web is placed between the hem of the skirt and the main fabric and the hem is ironed along the wrong side of the skirt. Make sure that the iron does not touch the web, otherwise it will immediately melt and leave a trace of glue on the sole of the iron.
To ensure that the button or block holds on thin fabric more firmly, you can duplicate this area with adhesive fabric from the reverse side of the fabric (where they will stand). Read about how to install blocks, buttons and other accessories with your own hands in this article.
Sewing stores offer many different tools and sewing supplies. You can do without some of them, but you should definitely have several types of adhesive fabric on hand.
When replacing a zipper, you need to use an adhesive gasket. You need to cut a narrow strip no more than 2 cm wide and duplicate the edge where the zipper will be installed. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the skin with the iron. Duplicating the edge will prevent the leather from stretching when sewing on a zipper on a sewing machine. In order not to use adhesive fabric, a special reinforcing adhesive tape is produced for these purposes.
Fur skins cannot be glued with adhesive cloth using an iron. Leather tissue may be damaged by hot soles. However, as with any other sewing product, reinforcing fabric pads are used for sewing fur clothing. They are sewn to the skin with long oblique stitches.
When working with leather, an adhesive cloth is used. Details such as cuffs, belts, and collars must be backed with pads. Be careful when placing the adhesive cloth onto the leather. The leather can be damaged by using an iron that is too hot.
Non-woven fabric is a lining material of a synthetic composition. It has a non-woven structure in the form of a continuous fabric, reminiscent of paper. Differs in a huge variety in density and thickness.
Despite the classification of non-woven fabric as a paper-type material, it appeared much later, almost simultaneously with the invention of chemically modified fibers: viscose and cellulose.
Depending on the type of fibrous structures that form this duplicating fabric, non-woven fabric is divided into water-soluble, wettable and insoluble. Unlike the first two, the third type is more resistant to deformation and does not shrink when dried.
According to adhesive characteristics, the material is divided into:
As a lining fabric, non-woven fabric is very popular and widespread. Thanks to its improved composition and resistance to wear and abrasion, it is practically not inferior to its natural fabric counterpart - dublerin, and is almost two to three times more expensive.
Adhesive and non-adhesive interlinings are used in various spheres of life and mainly in the clothing industry. So, when sewing clothes, it acts as a lining material for certain elements: cuffs, collars, belts, seams, etc.
Tear-off interlining is indispensable when embroidering on tulle, silk, and other thin fabrics. It is easy to remove after finishing work. It is enough to gently pull and tear off, or dissolve in water after a short soaking.
In addition to the clothing industry, non-woven fabric has found application:
The advantages of non-woven fabric are low cost, wrinkle resistance and wear resistance. In addition, it is quite unpretentious to use. It was mentioned above that in order to attach interlining to fabric, it is enough to cut a piece of the required size, place the adhesive side on the wrong side and run it with a well-heated iron. As a result, the adhesive layer will melt under thermal influence, holding the material and the duplicate fragment together. To avoid glue getting on the iron, it is recommended to cover the adhesive interlining with gauze or other thin material before processing.
To prevent shrinkage, the attached non-woven fabric is soaked for a short time or simply moistened, then dried for some time, keeping it at room temperature. As a result, the product will not lose its shape and will retain its original appearance for a long time.
When choosing non-woven fabric, it is also important to consider its density. To do this, you need to carefully study the technological process of creating products where you plan to use it.
A large assortment of types of this material is presented in the online hypermarket "Casket". From us you can inexpensively buy any non-woven fabric at retail at absolutely affordable low prices. The order will be accepted and processed as soon as possible, and convenient delivery methods will save your time.
Every person who has at least once tried to sew something on their own has encountered the problem of deformation of sections of fabric and individual parts of clothing. In order for the product to acquire an impeccable appearance, a special cushioning material called non-woven fabric is used.
High-quality processing of cuts on the lower edges of skirts and trousers, necklines, and turn-down collars can only be done with the help of a good cushioning layer. Among non-professional tailors who are just starting to sew, there is an opinion that interlining is a fabric. This is actually a misconception.
Nonwoven is a white or yellowish non-woven cushioning material based on cellulose fibers. At the same time, polyester fibers can be added. White is the most common color among interlining materials, but you can choose any shade depending on the chosen fabric.
The structure of non-woven fabric resembles paper. Depending on the purpose, the paper layer can be thin and weightless for light fabrics or dense, like cardboard, to add rigidity to a stand-up collar or cuffs.
Due to the fact that an additional layer of fabric is used when sewing a product, those parts of clothing that are usually easily deformed during sewing, as well as during further washing and cleaning, become stiffer and denser, do not stretch, and the appearance of the item remains impeccable.
Non-woven fabric is produced in rolls 100 meters long and 80 to 100 centimeters wide.
The fibers from which non-woven fabric is made can be impregnated or unimpregnated. Depending on this, there are two main types of cushioning material: adhesive and non-adhesive. The first is mainly used when sewing various clothes. It is not removed, but remains on the fabric to give the details of the product additional density.
Adhesive interlining is a non-woven fabric made of cellulose fibers, on which a layer of glue is applied. The adhesive coating can be continuous, like a film, or dotted. To impart rigidity to the parts of the product, dense non-woven fabric with a continuous coating is used. To keep the fabric light, but at the same time keep its shape, use a dotted version.
Non-adhesive interlining can be water-soluble and tear-off. It is easily removed from the fabric, so it is more suitable for various types of creative work. It is also called interlining for embroidery. Simply rinse the finished work and the cushioning material will dissolve in water. Or you can simply carefully tear it off the fabric without damaging the embroidery.
Non-woven fabric can also be thread-stitched. With this option, a machine stitch is located along the fibers of the interlining fabric. This provides the material with additional strength.
If when sewing a product you only need to process a small area of clothing, then in this case it is better to use non-woven edging. It consists of pieces of fabric from 1 to 4 centimeters wide and is ideal for processing the bottom sections of trousers and skirts.
Like other types of cushioning materials, fabric interlining also has certain advantages and disadvantages.
The main positive point in using this type of interlining fabric is its price. Unlike similar materials (for example, dublerin), non-woven fabric is relatively inexpensive. Depending on the type and density of the canvas, its price ranges from 20 to 50 rubles per meter.
Among the disadvantages is its fragility. If handled carelessly, the non-woven fabric breaks easily. And if the cushioning material is dense, then the part of the product can become rigid, like plywood. In addition, despite the fact that non-woven fabric is not paper, it wrinkles, and kinks and creases also form on it.
Working with cushioning material is not difficult, but in order for the product to have an impeccable appearance, you need to adhere to certain rules. Despite the fact that non-woven fabric is not a fabric, it is better to cut it lengthwise, like regular fabric.
In order to glue the interlining fabric, you need to attach it with the adhesive rough side to the back of the product and iron it with a hot iron with steam through a piece of fabric. For items made of dense fabric, the cut should be pre-wetted and only then ironed. And, conversely, non-woven fabric is glued dry to a light thin fabric with a hot iron. Press the iron against the fabric for no more than 10 seconds, otherwise the glue will bleed onto the front side.
Non-woven fabric is used not only when sewing products, but also in almost all types of creativity.
Non-woven fabric is an indispensable assistant in sewing. Affordable price, ease of use, and good quality of manufactured products emphasize the advantages of this cushioning material among other types and ensure its wide application.
Nonwoven- this is a non-woven, adhesive-based material designed to strengthen the details of sewing patterns to give them rigidity. Non-woven fabric is made from cellulose fiber. Synthetic polyester fiber is added to some types of non-woven fabric. Non-woven fabric can be regular with or without an adhesive base, or it can be removable, that is, soluble in water. Soluble interlining is convenient to use for embroidery and appliqués.
Non-woven fabric as dublerin is used to strengthen areas of clothing. For example, it is glued on the shoulder seams to prevent stretching of the fabric, and is used to strengthen fasteners and trims. If it is a jacket or blazer, it is glued with non-woven fabric or double lining. To maintain the shape of individual sections of the product, the collar and cuffs are glued. They glue the yokes, belts, and pocket flaps.
Non-woven fabric, as previously described, is made from non-woven fiber, which resists moisture and provides minimal shrinkage. Thanks to this, the non-woven fabric does not tighten the garment after washing, which prevents deformation of the product. Due to the fact that non-woven fabric does not shrink and does not shrink, it began to be used in wallpaper. Such wallpaper is called non-woven wallpaper and differs from ordinary wallpaper in density, wear resistance and maintaining a rigid shape, which makes it possible to make the surface of such wallpaper washable. Non-woven fabric is also used in medicine as a biosoluble dressing material.
But non-woven fabric used in garments still has disadvantages.
By gluing interlining to the patterns of parts, ultimately the glued parts are connected by machine stitching and the interlining remains completely in the product. The disadvantage is that over time it comes off due to washing, and also loses its integrity (wears out), since it has a thin non-woven material. Considering these disadvantages, I use interlining in garments where there is lining fabric, that is, so that the interlining is between the fabrics of the garment and does not wear out.
The interlining is glued onto the fabric using a hot iron with steam.
Non-woven fabric is produced under various brands and has different characteristics. Below is a table of non-woven fabrics suitable for different fabrics. Materials are glued at different temperatures and different times.
| Brand | Surface density, g/m² |
Width, cm |
Thickness, mm |
Bonding temperature °C |
Bonding time With |
What fabrics is it used with? |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| H-180 | 33 | 60 | 0,35 | 130-150 | 8 | From light to lightweight silk, wool, viscose |
| H-200 | 45 | 60 | 0,32 | 130-150 | 8 | Light cotton, viscose, lavsan |
| H-410 (with stabilizing threads) |
56 | 60 | 0,4 | 130-150 (with humidification) |
10-12 | From light to heavy |
| C-405 | 27 | 90 | 0,4 | 130-150 | 8 | Silk and viscose |
| E-420 (for skin) |
50 | 90 | 0,6 | 60-85 | 8-19 | Velor, patent and artificial leather |
Gurovich K. A. Fundamentals of materials science in clothing production. - 1st ed. Textbook for NGOs. - M.: Academy, 2013. - P. 164-165. - 208 p.
Non-woven fabric is a popular synthetic fabric, most often used as a cushioning base in finished textile products. Historically, there is an opinion that the technology for its production was created by a certain company from Germany in the century before last. Taking advantage of the idea of paper production, German specialists developed similar processes for processing cellulose fibers, additionally strengthening them with a polymer layer. The result is a dense non-woven fabric with excellent performance characteristics, including high wear resistance, strength and hygroscopicity, and good abrasion resistance.
The scope of application of non-woven fabric also turned out to be very wide - construction, medicine. But it still received the greatest recognition and distribution in the textile industry. As a cushioning material, non-woven fabric is used to create many types of outerwear. It is also found in hats, shoes, and curtain designs.
Scientific and technological progress that does not stand still has also affected non-woven fabrics. Many years have passed since the first release. Over such a period of time, many of its types were invented, which are usually divided into two typical varieties:
Each of them has its own personal characteristics and advantages, which further determines their choice. However, the degree of their involvement and preference when sewing is approximately the same, and the choice of one or another option depends on the ideas of the technologists.
Our online store "World of Manufacture" offers the widest range of this sewing accessory. Here you can buy any type of non-woven fabric completely inexpensively at affordable, adequately low prices. The order delivery method is selected individually.
