Raspberries are a delicious berry that ripens in early summer. Few people can pass by this fragrant fruit. It is not only tasty, but also very useful for treating colds. If you decide to plant a red-pink beauty on your site, you need to know the timing and rules for planting raspberries in the fall.
It is believed that autumn is the most favorable time for planting raspberries. At this time, it will take root well, straighten the roots and grow new ones. Until the first frost occurs, it will be nourished from the ground. mineral fertilizers and will winter well. And in the spring, such seedlings will grow faster, waking up on a par with long-livers, and may even begin to bear fruit (if it is a remontant variety).
If you plant raspberries in the spring and not in the fall, the plant takes a long time to take root. Naturally, there is no talk of any harvest this year. Therefore, autumn is the best period for rooting young seedlings.
Another important question that requires an answer: when is it better to plant raspberries in the fall, and in what month? Accepted You can plant raspberries in the fall in September; this is the most suitable time for the procedure.
IN different regions The timing of planting raspberries in the fall can of course vary. So, in the south of Russia, shrubs can be planted until the end of October, but in the middle zone (Moscow region) it is advisable to do so before the end of September.
But the main condition is that there are still 20-30 days before the first frost. If you plant raspberries later than this time, the sprouts may not have time to gain a foothold inside the soil. The result will be either complete freezing of the seedling, or a difficult wintering, and then a long struggle with diseases and weakness of the seedling. Therefore, it is recommended to meet the recommended deadlines and produce autumn planting
raspberries to a new place, while the outside temperature remains around +10...+15 degrees. when replacement buds appear on it, located on the root collar of the seedling. If the variety is early, then such eyes will appear in early September. When late variety the buds will appear at the end of September.
Video: planting raspberry seedlings in autumn
Optimal dates for planting raspberries in the fall in the middle zone (in the Moscow region) and in the zone of risky farming (Volga region)- With September and until October. Raspberries can be planted in these regions in the spring, but autumn planting makes the plant much stronger and more resilient.
Planting raspberries in autumn in Siberia and the Urals you need to have time to complete it before the first days of September, but you should be guided by the weather. If the end of summer turns out to be cold, rainy, and windy, then it is advisable not to plant raspberry seedlings in the Urals and Siberia at all, leaving this event for the spring. The result of rooting in the fall will be death due to freezing or the appearance of a fungal disease due to high humidity air.
Plant raspberries in autumn in the northern regions It is recommended that the rows of beds be located from north to south. With this placement, the plantings will receive the maximum amount of sunlight. This has a positive effect on the ripening of the crop and the taste of the berries.
The technique for planting a young raspberry seedling is the same in both spring and autumn.
The following are the advantages of planting raspberries in the fall:
The only disadvantage of planting raspberries in the fall in September-October is the need to monitor the weather, namely to track the moments when the temperature drops. The main thing is to correctly determine the timing of the most ideal time for planting a young raspberry seedling.
Thus, the need to plant young seedlings in the autumn is obvious. At this point, after planting, the raspberry seedlings will take root well, nourish themselves and overwinter well. Next spring you can already expect the appearance of the first fruits with a fragrant smell.
Surely any novice gardener who has decided to take up this business is interested in how to properly plant raspberries in the fall. This is not difficult to do, especially if you follow these step-by-step instructions.
The selection of raspberry seedlings for planting in the fall is not carried out according to appearance stem, but according to the internal state of the root system. It should be well developed, without visible damage or putrefactive odor.
Only after you verify the quality of the root system, which has a large number of dormant basal buds, you can pay attention to the above-ground part. The stems should be woody in color, about 0.5-1 cm in diameter.
If the seedling is tall, then before planting it is cut to a level of 20-25 cm from the base. This is necessary so that it draws less nutrients onto itself, giving the root system strength for rooting.
Note! If you want to plant or transplant a raspberry bush to a new place(and not buy and plant from scratch), then this will help you.
It is recommended to choose a sunny place for growing raspberries, because the berries require a lot of sunlight to ripen, but it is better that the bush is not exposed to scorching rays all the time. Of course, the plant can grow in partial shade, but then you won’t even have to dream of large yields, despite all the care and abundance of fertilizing.
Attention! Raspberries are a fairly unpretentious creature; they can grow in any area. But if you want a larger harvest and rich taste of sweet berries, then before planting raspberries, you should pay attention to choosing a place for planting and preparing the soil.
In addition, the area must be protected from drafts and strong winds. Sometimes in the spring there can be strong hurricanes that knock off the delicate foliage and spoil the ovaries of the berries. Therefore, windy weather should also be taken into account.
The soil for planting raspberries must be fertile. When there are few nutrients in the soil, the leaves of the plant lose their rich shade, becoming yellow with clearly defined veins.
The ideal soil for planting raspberries is loamy and sandy loam soil.
Note! It is important that the soil is well drained and also allows moisture to pass to the roots without stagnating near the base.
Once the landing site has been selected, the area is prepared. To prepare the soil for planting raspberries, you must perform the following steps:
After preparing the soil, you can proceed directly to the planting procedure.
Planting young annual raspberry seedlings is carried out in several ways:
When following the method of rooting seedlings using the bush method, you should not resort to preparing (fertilizing) the soil in advance. When planting, place the raspberry seedling correctly in the ground according to the following scheme:
Raspberry bush planting scheme:
The second method of planting raspberries is the trench (tape) method. Not many people know it because in most cases they use the bush planting method. If we compare both procedures, then planting in a trench is a more labor-intensive and time-consuming method.
When using the trench method, a significant advantage is the confidence that the entire raspberry plant will receive an even amount of nutrients. This procedure will increase the growth of green shoots and the yield of bushes.
Dimensions of the trench for raspberries: width - 40 cm, depth - 40 cm, distance between seedlings 40-70 cm.
If it is required that raspberries do not allow root seedlings to spread throughout the entire territory of the site, then the dug hole in the ground is lined with slate on all sides. It prevents roots from growing in different directions, blocking their movement.
A layer of wood is poured onto the bottom of the trench, which has already begun to rot, turning into dust. On top of them is placed a layer of humus (6-8 kg per 1 square meter), fallen leaves or cow dung (this can be laid out in layers individually or by mixing everything in one batch).
In addition, to fertilize raspberries when planting, you need to add:
Cover everything on top with black soil or garden soil.. Such a layer of fertilizers when planting raspberries guarantees that the bushes receive nutrients for a sufficiently long period.
Video: correct landing raspberries in autumn
After the seedling is buried in the ground, it is recommended to lightly compact the soil. This is necessary so that there are no hollow depressions left inside the soil. Moisture can stagnate in them, which negatively affects the root system of the plant.
If there is a large amount of water constantly at the roots, a fungal disease may join them or they will begin to rot. Any outcome adversely affects the planted seedling.
Further care for young raspberries after planting in the fall should be constant. It is watered periodically, focusing on the need for moisture, when the soil dries out.
Also, as a form of care, a raspberry seedling after planting in the fall is prepared for wintering. At the first sign of decline temperature regime, it is recommended to mulch the root area or cover it with humus or sawdust.
Carefully! Fallen leaves are not the best the best option for mulching, since it may contain various pests that tend to feed on sap fruit plants. In addition, fungal diseases develop well in it.
A young plant often suffers from severe frosts, so experienced gardeners They make a frame near the raspberry tree and stretch the film over it. This method is especially suitable for the bush method. In this case, each plant will be carefully packed in plastic wrap.
The erected frame forms the necessary space in which there is enough oxygen for the plant to overwinter normally. In spring, the insulation is removed at the first sun rays so as not to provoke condensation accumulation.
Any gardener dreams of getting from his raspberry garden big harvests with delicious large fruits. But in most cases they are done typical mistakes that do not allow you to achieve the desired result:
Video: planting raspberries without mistakes
Thus, raspberry is not such a demanding shrub, although it cannot be called completely unpretentious either. But to get the berries with rich flavor and large size, it is recommended to try a little. Planting raspberries in the fall is not difficult. The main thing is to act according to the rules: produce proper preparation beds for raspberries and choose a quality seedling. Knowing all the features and secrets of planting raspberries, you will be able to get an amazing harvest in the future.
Video: how to plant raspberries in the fall
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Raspberries are delicious both fresh and in the form of jam or jam. Moreover, it is very healing berry. In this article we will look at whether it is possible to plant nearby on the site different varieties raspberries
It's no secret that raspberries are a very tasty, tender and aromatic berry that almost everyone loves. Raspberries are rightfully considered the queen of the garden, as well as an effective assistant in the fight against colds, because jam from its fruits or a product made from its leaves are good for treating fever and fever. In addition, raspberry rhizomes are used, which help cope with dry and painful cough.
There are several types of raspberries, namely:
white or yellow-fruited;
Note that blackberries look very similar to blackberries, but differ significantly in taste. Compared to red and white raspberries, this variety has the following advantages:
IN Lately Remontant raspberries are very popular. It bears fruit twice a year, and the second time occurs during the last month of summer.
Many people wonder: is it possible or not to plant different varieties of raspberries next to each other? Experienced gardeners It is not recommended to do this. Although cross-pollination of raspberries does not affect its seeds in any way, when planted nearby, the root shoots will intertwine with each other, which is why after a year or two you will have a mixed raspberry tree. To prevent this from happening, you can only plant black raspberries nearby, since they do not have root shoots. It is advisable to plant all other varieties away from the red raspberry bush.
Since this berry reproduces mainly due to the root system, the fruits need to be planted in rows, the distance between which does not exceed 1.8 m. And the distance between bushes in a row should be at least 0.7 m. Thin and damaged stems must be cut out, leaving 7 strong shoots. If the shoots are not removed, the harvest will noticeably decrease. In early spring, the stem should be cut at a height of 150-160 cm.
Every year in mid-autumn it is necessary to feed raspberries. To do this, use organic feed at the rate of 2 buckets of peat per raspberry bush, using nitrate or urea in the amount of 100 g. If the shoots grow poorly, then in mid-spring a bucket of organic fertilizer should be poured under each bush.
Note that after applying fertilizers, it is necessary to loosen the soil around the bushes. The depth of loosening should be from 8 to 10 cm. To prevent the roots from growing too much, you can build a barrier in the form of a sheet of iron buried around the perimeter across the entire width of the bush.
Tips for caring for raspberries:
As you can see, it is not enough to simply plant raspberries for them to produce a tasty and ripe harvest. You also need to take care of her, for which she will reward you with juicy and healthy fruits.
Greetings, dear gardeners! We all love raspberries and want to grow plenty of this wonderful berry. Today we have access to a wide variety of raspberry varieties: yellow and black, early and late, remontant and standard. The story begins with landing. When to plant raspberries and how to do it correctly important work? Let's talk about exactly this today.
Proper planting of a raspberry plantation creates the basis for an excellent harvest for many years to come.
The gardener does not need the seed method of propagating raspberries; this is the lot of breeders. Cutting this one berry crop It’s also difficult - you need special fog installations and special technologies.
But you can grow raspberries from root cuttings: for this you take rhizomes from young bushes,
cut into pieces 10 cm long and buried in loose soil not too deeply (in spring or autumn); During the season, dormant buds awaken and shoots grow.
Dividing bushes is not practiced; it is of very little use. It is strictly not recommended to use mature bushes for planting: they are difficult to accept and grow poorly in the future.
A normal red and yellow raspberry seedling is a young plant - root shoots(offspring), grown slightly to the side of the main bush.
Black raspberries (such as the Cumberland variety) and some varieties of hybrid raspberries do not produce shoots. They grow long lashes, touch the ground and grow into it with apical buds; then roots appear there and a young shoot emerges. This is how black raspberry seedlings are formed - “stem shoots”.
In what month are raspberry shoots planted? There are several reasonable options:
The last option is not the best for raspberries. For this berry crop, the planting material in pots is frail and develops slowly at first. Seedlings with an open root system are usually more powerful.
You should not plant raspberries with an open root system, dug up in August, and even early autumn is not a very suitable time. During this period, the shoots have not yet fully matured - neither the trunks nor the root collar; the buds of renewal have not yet formed. It is best to wait for natural leaf fall, or at least get closer to this time.
In the Moscow region, in Central Russia, in Altai, in the south of the Urals and Siberia, an excellent time for planting raspberries is the end of September and October. There is no need to be afraid that it is too late: it is the sleeping or falling asleep plants that successfully tolerate transplantation. If you do choose leafy seedlings, then you need to remove all their foliage as quickly as possible so that it does not evaporate moisture.
Autumn planting of raspberries (as well as gooseberries and currants) during the leaf fall period or immediately after it is the most correct option.
It is more appropriate to postpone the event to spring only in conditions of a cold, swampy lowland (although in such places it is generally difficult to grow this berry).
If planting is still done in the spring, then the earlier the better (again, while the plants have not yet begun to grow). Some varieties of large-fruited raspberries (such as the standard Tarusa) and raspberries take root more successfully in the spring, especially in cold regions.
Very important point – correct pruning planting material for autumn or spring planting.
The main part of the seedling is the roots and root collar with bud rudiments. The trunk is not needed; it is cut as short as possible, leaving a stump of 5-10 cm.
It is not recommended to save most of the stem. The buds will try to flower and bear fruit, which will weaken the young plants. You should not strive to get a harvest in the first year; it is better to let the bushes take root reliably and grow good renewal shoots. They will bear fruit next season.
But regrown annual shoots may bloom, but in the first year the crop rarely ripens. Any varieties reveal their potential only in the third year.
If the stem has gall swellings and spots from diseases, then this is not too scary. The trunk is cut shorter, and infected cuttings are burned. But if there are cones or wormholes in the root collar, then this is unsuitable planting material. You can only try to take root cuttings from it.
If the bumps are visible on the roots themselves, then this may be root cancer. If the damage is severe, the plant is burned entirely and cannot be planted. If there are a small number of growths, the seedling is saved by cutting off the infected pieces of rhizome.
This method is especially good for propagating your own raspberries.
Approximately in the month of May (in the middle zone), young shoots begin to emerge next to the raspberry bushes. It is called "nettle".
For transplantation, choose a cloudy (preferably even rainy), cool day. Young shoots 5-10 cm high are dug up with a piece of rhizome, chopping off with a shovel or cutting off the rhizome that extends from the mother bush with pruning shears.
The plants are immediately planted, watered thoroughly (you can use Kornevin’s solution), and mulched. In the first days, shade from the scorching sun. If by autumn the seedlings grow well and become stronger, then next year they will bear fruit.
Raspberry plants love moderately moist soil, but do not tolerate stagnant water and especially prolonged flooding. In swampy lowlands, young shoots ripen poorly and have a difficult winter. For such places, the most unpretentious traditional varieties are selected and remontant raspberries with a one-year development cycle.
Dry hillocks and raised beds for this berry crop are also not suitable, as are slopes with a rapid outflow of water. The roots are more comfortable in trenches just below ground level, with excellent mulching.
Where is it better to place this berry crop - is it only in the sun, or is it also possible in the shade? Well, of course, she needs a lot of light. The bushes should be illuminated by the sun, ideally from top to bottom. The sunniest places are reserved remontant variety and every raspberry, from traditional varieties - early and late ripening, as well as capricious super-large-fruited ones.
Several bushes can be placed in the shade of a house or other building (but not under trees). We are talking about ordinary raspberries, not remontant ones. Fruiting in partial shade will be later and longer. But here diseases and pests attack more strongly, and young stems ripen worse and do not always overwinter successfully. For a shaded area, you will have to select the most unpretentious and winter-hardy varieties.
A good option is to place them in one row, from south to north.
If several rows are adjacent, then optimal distance between them is 2.5-3 meters (for low standard and low remontant varieties 1.5-2 meters is allowed). This will ensure normal ventilation.
At what distance should planting holes be made in one row? Classic version– 70 cm. For remontant varieties, 90-100 cm is recommended, for spreading black raspberries and raspberries – even more.
Is it possible to plant different varieties of raspberries next to each other? This is perfectly acceptable if they have similar characteristics and require the same care. There are no changes in the berries due to cross-pollination.
It is very undesirable to plant young raspberries immediately after raspberries on an old plantation - due to soil fatigue and accumulated infections. This berry plant should not be placed after garden strawberries, bulbous plants, roses, representatives (tomatoes, petunia flowers, potatoes, etc.) - they have common diseases.
What can you plant next to raspberries? Any cultivated plants, except those already mentioned. In addition, raspberries share a common pest with strawberries - the weevil. And the proximity of raspberries and apple trees is also harmful. Such dangerous pest raspberry buds and berries, like the raspberry beetle, when it comes out of winter, first feeds on the nectar of apple flowers, and then flies to the raspberries.
If the soils are very acidic, they are pre-deoxidized. Raspberries get along well with a little acidity. But raspberries have a great need for organic matter. Every seat Be sure to add 1-2 buckets of mature humus - manure or grass.
They also add a good handful. A handful of granular mineral fertilizer with potassium and phosphorus will not hurt. It is good to populate raspberries a year after plowing green manure.
Bare raspberry roots should not be exposed to the sun and wind. If the root system is treated with clay mash, then this clay must be washed off before planting. Seedlings are placed in holes one or two at a time.
At what depth should they be planted? The root collar is buried just a little bit underground, a couple of centimeters, just to cover the bud rudiments. The plantings must be watered thoroughly.
Goodbye, dear friends! Happy landing!
With all respect, Andrew
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Raspberries are a tasty berry in the summer, and healing during the cold season. We prefer to collect raspberries in the forest: for compotes, for jam and drying. And in order to treat yourself to a fresh berry, plant raspberries V small quantities on summer cottage . The berries grow quite large, and there is plenty to eat. About the subtleties planting raspberries on a personal plot we read in the book “Fruit Growing” (1960).
For good harvest it's worth thinking about where is the best place to plant raspberries on the plot. But if you consider that raspberries grow well in the forest, you don’t have to worry too much. Our goal is to learn how to plant raspberries correctly. Therefore, read on. So, raspberries love:
Raspberries don't like:
For raspberries, it is best to allocate sunny areas in windless areas, for example behind a fence or some kind of building or shed. More snow accumulates there in winter, which prevents it from drying out and also creates protection against freezing of buds and shoots. Raspberries do not take root well and grow in swampy areas, as well as on clay soils. BUT it also does not like dryness, where it suffers from a lack of moisture.
After analyzing several Internet sources, we compiled a summary table of favorable, undesirable and neutral neighborhoods, what can you plant next to raspberries?.
|
Good neighborhood: can be planted |
Neutral:
acceptable |
|
| Shrubs and trees:
black and red currants, blackberries, junipers, mountain pine, barberries. |
Shrubs and trees:
apple tree, plum tree, pear tree, peach tree, chokeberry, black currant, gooseberry, lilac. |
Shrubs and trees:
jasmine, elderberry, cherry. |
| Greens: dill, celery, basil | Greens: mint, sage | Herbs: parsley |
| Vegetables: tomatoes, cucumbers, potatoes, onions, White cabbage, peas, carrots. | Vegetables: cabbage, bush beans, pumpkin. | Vegetables: garlic, radishes, beets. |
| Berries: strawberry | Berries: grapes. | |
| Flowers: roses, ferns, delphinium, peony, asters, foxglove. | Flowers: calendula, snapdragon, spirea, Turkish carnation, lilies, rhododendron, cosmos, astilbe, lupine. | Flowers: marigolds, nasturtium, hosta, iris. |
Crop rotation: Raspberry bushes should not be planted after plants such as strawberries and potatoes, as they share common pests. And after the raspberries themselves, onions, garlic, beans, cucumbers, and zucchini grow well.
The most favorable time for planting varietal garden raspberries is considered to be autumn: the period from the end of the growing season until 2-3 weeks before frost. You can plant raspberries early in the spring, but it is important to plant them before the buds open.
Raspberry planting dates for Middle zone Russia:
When to plant raspberries in the southern regions:
Raspberries, like gooseberries and black currants, loves in his diet:
It is these substances that form the basis of all fertilizing and fertilizing the soil before planting for raspberries(along with gooseberries and black currants).
Before planting, digging and fertilizing the soil is required. Fertilizers are applied to predecessor plants and directly to pre-planting digging. Fertilizers are added to the planting holes for each plant in the following amounts:
6-8 kg of manure (bucket) of manure, humus or compost, 150-200 g of superphosphate, 30-40 g of potassium chloride, for acidic soils Lime is also used in an amount of 200-300 g.
The listed fertilizers are mixed with the soil in the planting hole. After the plant is placed in the hole, the roots are covered with the top layer of soil, without fertilizer. Instead of superphosphate, phosphate rock is also used (300-400 g per hole).
At what distance should I plant raspberries?
Raspberries are planted in straight rows. Placement on personal plots: the width between rows is 1.5 m, and between plants in a row - 0.5 m. Why is such a gigantic distance - you ask, - Where can one speed up in a summer cottage... But the fact is that next to the planted bushes it will regularly grow young growth. According to science, for 3-4 years after planting, all root shoots produced by planted plants in rows must be preserved. The shoots are removed from the row spaces. Thus, if space allows, stripes 40-50 cm wide are formed. The described method of placing raspberry bushes is called narrow-strip.
In a summer cottage where space is limited, it can be difficult to maintain stripes. But at the same time, it is important to trim the raspberries so that there is no thickening and in order to rejuvenate the plantings. How to prune raspberries and how to care for them in order to achieve a high yield will be discussed in the article “...”. Now let's get back to the landing.
How to plant raspberry seedlings in the ground?
Before planting, the seedlings are cut off from above, leaving a stump of 15-20 cm. The roots, if they are damaged, are cut to a healthy place using a knife or pruning shears. Do not break off the buds on the roots. After pruning, the roots are dipped in soil mash and planting begins.
So, the soil was dug up and fertilized. Depth landing pit should be exactly the same as that of seedlings. Deep planting depresses plants. The roots in the hole should lie freely, not bend or curl. Approximate hole size for heavy soils: 40-50 cm deep and 50-70 cm wide. On loose soils seedlings are planted directly under the shovel. When planting, the roots of the plant are straightened.
When backfilling, shake the plant carefully so that there are no voids in the soil. Finally, the soil around the planted plant is compacted with feet.
After planting, watering is required. Water consumption: 10 liters for 2-3 seedlings. After watering, the soil around the plants is mulched with manure or compost (diameter - 50 cm, mulch weight - 5 kg per bush).
In hot, dry weather conditions, watering of new plantings should be repeated, keeping the mulch under the bushes.
Gardeners always have a lot of questions about how to grow raspberries, how to grow them so that they are tasty and sweet. Raspberry - very useful plant, which can be seen on almost everyone garden plot. This is one of the most delicious berries in our gardens. But who among us hasn’t noticed either worms or some gnarled, hardened raspberries on the bushes? Why did the branches suddenly dry up with the fruits not having time to ripen? We have selected the most frequently asked questions and tried to answer briefly.
Those gardeners who do the right thing are those who set aside a corner of the garden for it or plant it along the hedge. This makes it easier to care for her. But still, a corner of the garden is preferable, since it is there that a large amount of snow accumulates during the winter.
Fertile, moist soils are best for growing. The best for it are sandy-clayey, alluvial-meadow, which are more saturated nutrients, than others. Heavy ones are unacceptable to her clay soils and soils oversaturated with limestone.
5-8 kg of manure, 70-80 g of superphosphate, 20-25 g of potassium sulfate are applied to the area intended for planting - this is based on 1 square meter. m. Scatter fertilizers evenly over the entire area of the site, dig it deeply.
Most raspberry varieties are self-fertile, so there is no particular need to plant pollinating varieties nearby. Of course, you can plant several varieties next to each other, but this will not interfere with pollination.
The best time of year for planting or transplanting seedlings is autumn - late August - September. In spring it can be planted only as an exception.
Holes for planting raspberries usually have dimensions of 30x30x30 cm. The seedlings are positioned so that after filling with soil they are below the surface of the ground (6-7 cm). The roots must be carefully straightened and covered. The soil around the seedling is compacted. For better conditions When watering, the soil is raked away from the trunk - a small depression is made so that the water does not spread. After watering, the soil around the seedlings is mulched with peat, hay, straw, fallen leaves, and other mulch.
Need to. If you do not prune, then, firstly, it will give a small harvest, secondly, new young shoots will not form, which will give a new harvest, and thirdly, pruned plants take root better. Therefore, immediately after planting, the stems are cut with pruning shears, leaving stumps no more than 20-25 cm in height.
A distance of 1-1.2 m should be left between rows, and 50-60 cm between seedlings.
The main methods of propagation are propagation by seeds and vegetative methods. Amateur gardeners practically do not use seed propagation. Typically, plants grown in this way rarely take on valuable qualities from the original parent varieties. Vegetative method involves using young shoots from the roots (root suckers) or dividing the bush for propagation. This is the cheapest, fastest way.
If you do not take care of your raspberry plantings, they will become overgrown with weeds, which greatly deplete the bushes. Few young shoots are formed, they are weak. The berries become small, their taste deteriorates, and the yield decreases.
Autumn digging of row spacing is required. First, excess young shoots are removed, and then the soil is dug up between the rows.
In the spring, before the buds open (late March-April), be sure to loosen the soil between the bushes. Between the rows it is deeper - 10-15 cm, and next to the plants - shallow - 5-7 cm, so as not to damage the root system.
From the beginning of the appearance of leaves and before picking the berries, they loosen it two more times.
After harvesting, they loosen it again, and then do not touch the row spacing until autumn - the annual shoots should ripen well.
Raspberries love watering. The most moisture is required when it blooms, when the berries set and ripen - from May to August. The first time (of course, if there is no rain) is watered before flowering (end of April), the second time - the end of May. Be sure to water 1-2 times when the berries are filled. The last time is watered after harvesting.
Watering rate is 1-2 buckets of water for one plant. It is most convenient to water through furrows, which are made on both sides of the row - a distance of 20-25 cm from the bushes.
Immediately after planting, the raspberry stems are cut off, leaving stumps 20-25 cm high. In the second year, 2-3 young shoots are left - the rest are cut to the ground with pruning shears, leaving no stumps.
As soon as the entire harvest is harvested, all two-year-old shoots that have already produced fruit are cut out.
In the spring, it is also recommended to prune, since after winter it is usually visible which shoots are weak and which were sick. Young shoots are cut out if there are many of them or they grow too often. No more than 10-12 young shoots are left per bush.
In old bushes the number of young shoots usually decreases. Sooner or later, the yield of such bushes decreases. Experienced gardeners know that it is possible to restore productivity by removing the old rhizome. In this case, the growth of young shoots increases. In parallel with the removal of old rhizomes, increased doses of organic and mineral fertilizers are applied to the raspberries. Such rejuvenation should be carried out every 5-6 years.
It is best for raspberries to alternate the application of organic and mineral fertilizers. The dosage is as follows - 1.5-3 kg of manure + 1 tablespoon (30 g) superphosphate + 1 tbsp. spoon of potassium sulfate (30 g) per 1 sq. m. Organic matter (manure) is added in the fall during deep digging of row spacing. Superphosphate is applied in the spring before buds open during the first loosening. Potassium sulfate - at the end of flowering. Fertilizers are evenly distributed over the surface of the soil, dug or loosened.
At good care you can grow it for 12-15 years without changing the planting location.
Signs: blue-violet spots appear on the stems at the point of attachment to the cuttings - the leaves fall off, but the cuttings remain and droop. The culprit of the disease is fungal spores that overwinter on young raspberry shoots.
Control measures: remove, burn diseased shoots; spray with copper-containing preparations (chorus, Bordeaux mixture, HOM, others).
This fungal disease manifests itself in the drying of shoots, sometimes along with the berries.
Control measures: cut out, burn affected shoots; spraying with copper-containing preparations.
Fungal spores infect shoots, berries, leaves, and spots with a purple border appear on them.
Control measures: removal, burning of affected shoots along with leaves and berries; Spraying in late autumn, summer (2-3 times every 2 weeks) with copper-containing preparations that prevent the reproduction and development of the fungus.
With this disease, light yellow spots appear on the upper part of the leaves, a little later in the same places, but at the bottom of the leaf orange-yellow pimples are visible, which over time acquire a dark rusty color - these are fungal spores. Mushroom, disease-causing, overwinters on fallen leaves.
Control measures: spraying fallen leaves with copper-containing preparations. In spring, the first spraying is required after the leaves bloom, and again after two weeks.
Signs of the disease: white and dirty spots appear on the leaves. The fungal spores overwinter on fallen leaves.
Control measures: as soon as the first manifestations of the disease are noticed, spray with copper-containing preparations; It is recommended to burn fallen leaves.
Of the viral diseases, the most famous are: yellow mosaic, witch's broom, yellow leaf veining, viral (infectious) chlorosis.
When a witch's broom disease occurs, numerous thin, shortened shoots form on the raspberry shoots - they become like a broom. Much fewer berries are produced.
When yellow mosaic disease occurs, pale green spots first appear on raspberry leaves, which then turn yellow.
At yellow veining Yellow stripes appear along the leaf veins.
With infectious (viral) chlorosis, by mid-summer the leaves turn yellow, first along the veins, and then the entire leaf turns yellow, like in autumn.
All these diseases are viral in nature.
Control measures: removal of diseased bushes by the roots; treatment with drugs that destroy pests - aphids, leafhoppers, and others that are carriers of pathogenic viruses, for example, Actellik, Iskra, Karbofos, Kemifos, and others.
The culprit behind the appearance of worms in berries is the raspberry beetle. It overwinters in the ground as an adult, appears in the spring, eats buds and flowers. Female raspberry beetles lay eggs inside buds, flower buds, and green raspberries. Beetle larvae (worms) live in the berries, feed on them, and go into the soil to pupate. This cycle repeats once a year.
Control measures: dig up the soil in the fall, i.e. disturb the wintering site of the raspberry beetle. And in the spring, spray the bushes before the leaves appear with one of the following preparations: Fufanon, Kemifos, Karbofos.
Raspberry agrilus is a light gray-greenish beetle. Female beetles lay eggs under the skin of raspberry stems. The emerging larvae make spiral-shaped passages inside the stems - the shoots die.
Control measures - cutting out, destroying (burning) the affected shoots - this is the only way.
The raspberry stem gall midge is a small mosquito that usually appears in May-June. Female mosquitoes lay eggs under the skin of raspberry stems. The larvae (worms) live inside the stem and feed on its pulp. At the site where the larvae invade, cones and growths appear on the stem, inside of which there is usually one larva, rarely 2-3. The stem at the site where the growth appears is easily broken. Sooner or later, nutrition stops flowing to the top of the stem, the leaves wither, the shoots die prematurely, and the crop dies.
Control measures: cutting off affected branches, burning them; treatment of raspberries with mosquito repellents - infusions of tobacco, mullein, leaves walnut, bird cherry, nettle, wormwood, etc. Spray in the evening, since mosquitoes begin their activities at nightfall.
The raspberry bud moth butterfly begins its active activity during raspberry flowering - it lays eggs inside the flower. The caterpillar feeds on the juices of the flower and then takes refuge under the bark of the stem. In the spring, the caterpillars penetrate the buds, eat everything inside, and pupate there.
Control measures: spray with a 30% solution of karbofos during bud swelling.
There are many varieties of leaf rollers. What they have in common in their behavior is great mobility; when they are discovered, they begin to wriggle wildly and try to “escape” by climbing down on cobwebs. Leafworm caterpillars feed on leaf buds. In this case, the leaves are wrapped along the length or width of the leaf, which is why they are called leaf rollers.
Control measures: late autumn and summer spraying with Actellik is effective. In early spring before buds open or in late autumn, spraying with preparation No. 30 is effective.
Aphids suck juices from raspberry leaves, shoots, and berries. In this case, the affected leaves curl and the shoots stop growing. Aphids are dangerous because they are carriers of viral diseases.
Control measures. The drug Bi-58 is effective against aphids.
A variety of mites cause great harm raspberries - the leaves turn pale, fall off, the berries remain small and tasteless. Late autumn, in early spring Before the leaves bloom, I advise you to treat the bushes with preparation No. 30, and before the fruits appear - Bi-58.
It should be noted that almost all types of raspberries are not resistant to bacterial cancer. Diseased plants cannot be saved; they must be destroyed. Preventative measures for seedlings before planting are relatively effective. Carefully select seedlings before purchasing, inspecting the roots - there should be no growths or thickenings. There are no drugs against bacterial cancer of raspberries yet. Do not plant it in place of plants removed due to disease for 2-3 years. The soil can be improved by planting legumes in this place for several years.
