There are many recipes on the Internet on how to make your own bed. We will not repeat them. We will tell you how to make a real bed with your own hands, which, like the old ones, can be passed on to children and grandchildren, withstanding everything that happens on it. But such a bed is unlikely to cost more than the cheapest purchased one, and it will cost nothing at all in terms of labor and materials. True, it will take about 10 days due to the necessary technological interruptions.
This bed is wooden, made exclusively from environmentally friendly materials. When assembling, nitro glue is used once in a small amount, and mostly completely harmless PVA. The finished product will look approximately as shown in the figure. The shape and design of the headboard and footboard are at your discretion; the parameters and quality of the entire structure do not depend on them at all.
Our double bed has one more feature: the complete absence of connections visible to the eye - fastener heads, brackets, etc. and their minimum number. In creating the bed, some design and technological techniques of wooden aircraft manufacturing were used, which at the dawn of its era also borrowed a lot from furniture makers.
The parts of the bed that “look outwards” are made of MDF with the texture of valuable wood or laminate; both are 20-30 mm thick. If there are comic fights with pillows, etc. turbulent events among the owners not at the factory, then it is quite possible to get by with 16 mm blanks. MDF is preferable - it is not laminated, and this will allow you to do without nitro glue and assemble everything using PVA; It does not adhere to laminated surfaces. Internal parts are made of wood or plywood with a thickness of 10-20 mm.
Let’s say right away that it’s easier and cheaper to order blanks of either MDF or laminate from the nearest furniture shop. Buying sheets yourself at retail price will cost much more. Furniture makers will cut it exactly to size and edge it - they will cover the ends with PVC to match the texture or contrast it, as you wish. Edge thickness – 0.2-2 mm.
For lumber, you will need to purchase timber 50x50 mm, approximately 8-8.5 m (can be in pieces), a couple of boards (30-40) x 100 mm, necessarily solid, 2 m long. For the flooring of the sun lounger (see below) you will need 20x100 boards mm, ten to one and a half pieces, 1.6 m long, or ordinary construction plywood, from ten to twenty, 2000x1600 mm. Boards are preferable, they are cheaper, and the dimensions of a standard sheet of plywood with the dimensions of the bed do not match well.
All lumber is edged and planed. Wood species – any. Independent additional processing, except for sawing to size and cutting out quarters and grooves, is not required.
Note: for a bed with drawers (see below) you will also need chipboard. You can take any cheapest one; parts made from it are loaded only in compression and only slightly. But chipboard won’t work for flooring a sunbed; it’s not elastic.
Expensive special fittings: minifixes, confirmats, eccentric adjusters, etc. are not used in the described design. At the same time, its strength and durability are higher than serial models, and its weight is less. This was achieved thanks to manufacturing technology with fairly long interruptions. Professional furniture makers need to quickly assemble products for sale in accordance with quality standards, otherwise they will go broke. But a homemade bed can wait until it is brought to full condition. Using this circumstance, it was possible to obtain a design that was simpler, cheaper and better than the factory ones.
You will need the following fasteners:
Note: because Since all connections are made with gluing, the best self-tapping screws are phosphated, their surface is slightly rough. PVA will adhere worse to smooth, shiny fasteners.
You should pay special attention to the corners. Firstly, the stiffener. It should be wide and round, as shown in the picture. Secondly, the folding and stamping surfaces must be completely smooth. Burrs and ripples are a sign of raw, and then burnt and overtightened metal. These corners are prone to fatigue and may crack for no apparent reason.
All connections, as stated, are made with gluing. Glue is applied to flat surfaces in a zigzag pattern (on both sides) and spread with a small notched spatula. Then it is kept until liquid tack-free (3-10 minutes), the parts are assembled into a unit and tightened with metal fasteners, also with glue, see below.
For self-tapping screws, blind holes are drilled in advance, on dry parts. Depth – 2/3 of the length of the self-tapping screw. Diameter – 3/4 of the thickness of the self-tapping screw body without thread. For 5 mm screws it will be 2.5 mm; for 6 mm – 3 mm. To accurately match holes in prefabricated units, the parts to be connected are temporarily fastened with clamps, one at the ends and between the edges, one per 0.5 m of length.
Calculation example: Let's say the frame beam is connected to a frame made of 20 mm MDF, see below. Total thickness – 70 mm. Self-tapping screws are needed 10 mm shorter, see above; take 6x60 mm. We make holes for them with a depth of 40 mm. The fifty beam will not pierce through. This means that you also need to glue and drive the screws with clamps.
Note: at the factory, the timber would have been drilled right through, and then a blind counter board would have been drilled into it. But this is only for the sake of speed and ease of assembly. The connection is greatly weakened in this case. For yourself, it’s better to do it painstakingly, but much more firmly. By the way, the best craftsmen also make exclusive items to order.
Next, add drops of water-polymer emulsion to the top into the blind holes. When it is absorbed (this takes a few minutes), coat the inside with PVA with a thin stick. Then we apply glue to the plane as described above, compress the parts with clamps and drive in dry screws. There is no point in applying glue to the threads - it will be squeezed out along the threads when screwed. The glue in the hole will drive the screw into the wood; in its mass, something like a glue bulb is formed, firmly holding the parts, like an anchor. Clamps can be removed one day after assembly.
Notes:
- Have you seen screws in dried out old furniture that fall out with chips of wood or fiberboard adhering to the threads? They were driven in by dipping them in glue, rather than by coating the holes from the inside.
- Water-polymer emulsion is not sold in small packages, but for a bed you will need a glass and a half. Therefore, instead, dilute it with water 3-5 times, until translucent and aqueous liquid, a little PVA. We prepare in small portions as needed: homemade emulsion is not stored even in a closed container.
For nails, you don’t need to drill anything in advance: we glue the parts together under pressure or in clamps, then fasten them with nails. But there are still two nuances:
The point here is that the notch of the nail will drive the undried remains of glue into the wood. Then, when the wood dries out, the nail will still hold tightly.
Probably everyone has seen dowels without knowing what they are. A dowel is a round wooden boss in two blind holes that seamlessly connects wooden parts. Dowel connections are extremely widely used in furniture and carpentry, but, alas, over time they dry out and no longer hold. To last for generations, dowels should be replaced with dowels. In mass production, dowels are not used - the production process slows down and the cost of production becomes unacceptable.
How a dowel is made from a dowel is shown in the left position of the figure on the right:
The most important condition for the reliability of the connection is that the wedge must be oriented across the grain of the wood, left pos. on the image. If the parts are connected at an angle - along the bisector of the angle. When connecting at right angles - with a 45-degree turn in any direction. In this case, the wedges on different sides of the dowel should be oriented perpendicular to each other.
The maximum permissible diameter of the boss is half the thickness of the board or the smallest size of the parts being connected. Minimum – 5% of the board width, but not less than 5 mm. Thus, for a 30x200 board, 10-12 mm bosses are needed, and for 50x50 beams - 15-20 mm. The length of the bosses is 2-3 times their diameter. The depth of the response hole in a thin part is half its thickness.
Dowel connections last for decades without gluing under the most severe operating conditions. And with sizing, the house will last for generations, and the wood may not be seasoned and of low quality, i.e. cheap.
For your information : Viking drakkars and knorrs, Hanseatic merchants' kogs and Pomeranian kochs were sewn together with dowels. Shipbuilders of the southern seas still preferred bronze and red copper nails. The copper compounds slowly oozing into the water to some extent scared off the borers and foulers that swarm and rage in the warm waters.
For ergonomic reasons, the dimensions of a double bed bed are recommended to be 2 m long and 1.6 m wide. They can be increased to 2.4x2 m if desired; it is difficult to do even more using conventional technological methods and construction materials.
A standard single bed is 1.9-2 m long and 0.9 m wide. On this occasion, people of normal build can fit two people. If there is not enough space, the width can be reduced to that of a carriage shelf - 550 mm. But at the same time, there must be a side rail even at the bed for adults.
The height of the surface of the bed (at the top of the mattress) is within 350-500 mm, depending on the height and build of the owner. The upper limit is better suited for those whose lower leg is longer than their thigh, and vice versa. Fashionable “Japanese” beds with a height of 220-260 mm are just fashion. The thickness of the layer of greatest dust content in the air in the room is 200-300 mm from the floor. Therefore, children's and teenagers' beds should also be of an adult overall height; the smallest ones need to be stepped up for convenience.
The height of the bed is distributed as follows: 180-300 mm - mattress, 150-200 mm - drawers, the rest - under-bed space. It may turn out to be close to 0. In this case, you need to make a bed with drawers: without ventilation from underneath, the bed will soon suffocate, begin to exude miasma, or even become sticky to the touch. The minimum height of the under-bed space is 80 mm.
The lion's share of the cost of a homemade bed is the mattress. Because of this, problems may arise when constructing a bed yourself. Finally, if you are going to make a bed yourself, then the comfort must be absolute, and a purchased mattress must be expensive. Therefore, we will figure out how to lay a ready-made mattress on a lounger without any difficulties, or how to inexpensively make your own, which is not inferior to the best orthopedic ones.
Warning: a homemade mattress is completely individual, and only for adults over 25 years of age, whose bones have completely ossified and stopped growing, and who are able to understand their sensations and interpret them correctly. The children's bed must be equipped with a special factory-made mattress, otherwise visits to an orthopedist with associated costs are very likely. The high price of orthopedic mattresses is precisely explained by the fact that they need to be made suitable for people of different heights, weights and builds.
Typically, the mattress is simply placed in a lodgement - a recess formed by the flooring of the bed and the sides of the sides of the bed - the drawer, on the left in Fig. If this method of installation is intended, then before taking on the bed, you need to buy a mattress. Branded sizes, even from the same batch, may differ from the standard 2000x1600 mm by plus or minus 10 mm. If you make a mistake, the mattress will either not fit into the cradle, or there will be a wide gap-garbage bin around the perimeter.
Note: A gap around the perimeter of the mattress is still necessary for the convenience of tucking in the sheets. But no more than 3-4 mm. This must be taken into account when calculating the size of a homemade bed.
Tossing and turning on a bed with a mattress in a support, sometimes you have to bump into the wood of the sides. It is unpleasant and can be painful if it hits a knuckle or ankle. Therefore, the flooring of the bed is often raised to the level of the top of the drawers (for this you have to move the timber frame upward, see below) and the entire bed is made the width of the mattress, on the right in Fig. The mattress is protected from slipping with retaining bosses made from waste wood, plywood, plasterboard, and EPS. The clamps are glued to a completely soft mattress; to a mattress with a rigid base - attached with screws or nailed. Holes are drilled or openings are cut out for the fasteners in the flooring of the sun lounger.
Making a homemade mattress is simple: different brands of foam rubber in mosaic layers, PVA glue – and that’s it. You will need three grades of foam rubber: 45 – the densest and most elastic, 35 – medium elasticity, 25 – soft. The number of layers is 6. The overall height of the mattress is increased compared to the standard 180-200 mm, this must be compensated by the height of the drawers and legs. The design of the mattress is clear from the drawing; it also shows which parts of the body should have which inner block.
Note: layers and their blocks are not glued together over the entire plane, for ventilation. You need to glue it with an envelope; at least 60% of horizontal areas must remain free. And no more than 80% - for strength.
When buying, the quality of foam rubber is checked “by shooting”: they squeeze it to the limit with their fingers and sharply release it. The material should straighten instantly, following your fingers. If a gradually disappearing depression is noticeable, the foam rubber is suitable for anything except a mattress.
The location of the internal stops made of dense foam rubber is determined individually. Experimental equipment - 4 pillows, covered with a cotton blanket or 2-3 jacquard ones. For a couple's mattress, the lumbar support is positioned according to the convenience of the fair half (it is assumed that the couple is normal and the partner is shorter). If there is a significant difference in height, the head support needs to be widened. Thick sidewalls of the 4th layer prevent sleepers from rolling off.
The bed, when viewed from the outside, is a rectangular frame consisting of two backs, a headboard with a footboard, and sides - a drawer. Inside, the load-bearing timber frame is integral with the backs and drawers. A wide bed also has longitudinal stiffening elements - side members, one or more. The timber frame is covered with a flooring made of boards or plywood (see figure), forming a flat plane - a deck chair - or a recess- tray. The flooring should have gaps or holes for ventilation. This information is enough to build a bed yourself. Let's get started.
Notes:
- Sometimes the recommended upward deflection of the lounger is archaic. This was done at a time when sun loungers were covered with mattresses and feather beds, which had absolutely no elasticity. Any modern mattress doesn’t care whether it’s flat or curved. But a curved one is more difficult and will cost more.
- The diameter of the holes in the plywood bed is 30-40 mm. Slots in planks vary in width from the thickness to the width of the board. The first is stronger, but more boards are needed. For ourselves, we look at the total weight of those lying down: up to 140 kg of maximum gaps; 180 and more are the minimum.
The most important and most loaded places of the bed are the corners. Therefore, the parts of the bed in the corners are connected into one twice: with dowels in the boards and quarters of the timber frame. The holes for the dowels must match exactly, so they are marked during the preliminary assembly process, see below.
The design of the backs is shown in the figure. The top can be anything you like. The 50x50 cross beam is attached with glue and self-tapping screws. Glue – PVA for backs made of MDF or “Moment”, etc. for laminate. The cutouts in the center are for the spar mustaches, see below, 25 mm deep and 40 mm wide. The distance between the inner edges of the cutouts is 50 or 40 mm, depending on what trimmings will be used to connect the transverse stiffness of the spar, also see below.
This back is hard. The soft back (which, of course, is very convenient) is a special, rather complex design, and... Back thickness – 24-40 mm. The lower value applies to custom made laminate/MDF; more - to a homemade typesetting made of planed boards. In this case, it is assembled using plywood from two panels 20 mm thick, the boards of which are oriented perpendicular to each other. Glue over the entire surface of the PVA, dispersed with a notched trowel. Dry for a week under a load distributed over the entire plane with a total weight of at least 80 kg. Paint with stain several times to the desired tone or with mordant; then the wood texture will stand out.
The length of beam A depends on the size and method of laying the mattress. If it fits into the cradle, then A is equal to its width plus 6-10 mm. For a standard double, respectively, 1606-1610 mm. If the mattress is placed on a sunbed, then A will be its width minus the double thickness of the drawer boards and minus another 10 mm. For a standard mattress and a magpie frame – 1600-(2x40)-10 = 1510 mm.
The width of the backrest B for the headboard is any, not less than the width of the mattress plus double the thickness of the drawers (mattress in a bed) or the width of the mattress plus 10 mm (mattress on a lounger). The width of the footboard is exactly the width of the mattress plus double the thickness of the drawers (mattress in a bed) or the width of the mattress plus 10 mm (mattress on a lounger). The footboard, widened even slightly, significantly impairs the comfort of the bed. Making it high or level with the sides is a matter of the owner.
The design shown does not require legs. The cutout at the bottom is also not necessary - on a flat floor, the headboard and footboard will become all the lower ends. This will only make the job easier and reduce clutter under the bed. If you still want legs, you need to place them under the corners of the timber frame, using glue or grabbing them with a couple of nails without much effort. The entire load on the legs is from above. Beds have been known to stand on bricks and books for decades. Which is, of course, barbaric, but they don’t fall.
The design of the drawer is also clear from the drawing: it is a T-shaped beam made of fifty-fifty timber and 20-40 mm boards. Assembly - with glue and self-tapping screws, as already described. The length of the beam and the board are the same; The described bed does not require complex calculations of grooves and cutouts. The pin bosses are shown conditionally; they are installed after preliminary assembly.
For drawer boards, it is not necessary to order sawing from furniture makers. An edged planed board, thirty or forty, 150-200 mm wide, will do. Paint it in advance with stain or mordant, as described. You don't have to paint the inside, it will just make the bed easier to breathe.
The drawers of antique beds are genuine works of decorative art, but modern furniture is designed based on the principles of minimalism. Low drawers in any interior do not catch the eye, so varnishing, polishing and decor in general are not needed for them, as long as they match the tone.
Note: For the sake of ease of operation and economy, the footboard is often made the same in design as the drawers. In this case, it should be somehow finished: varnished, laminated; this detail is immediately visible. At the same time, legs at the back are needed for the sake of the overall design and ease of cleaning, see fig. on right. How to attach the legs is described earlier.
The height of the beam can be arranged in two ways. For a mattress in a cradle - the indentation of the top of the timber from the top of the board is 30-50 mm (this is the recess of the mattress into the cradle) plus 20 mm if the plank flooring is plank, or the thickness of the plywood (12-20 mm) if it is plywood. For a mattress on a lounger, the distance from the top of the board is simply equal to the thickness of the flooring, or even 2-3 mm less, so that the edges of the underside of the mattress do not rub against the boards of the drawer boards.
The plan view of the bed base is shown in the figure. Possible locations of mattress clamps are shown conditionally. The openings for the fasteners are already selected in the flooring of the lounger. For reliable fixation, you need 4 in the corners or 2 between the spar flanges. For a mattress in a cradle, clamps are not needed at all.
The spar is the longitudinal connection in the middle in the figure. Typically, a double bed has three spars, each from one 40x100 mm board. The proposed design is similar to the spar of a wooden airplane wing. It is stronger, stiffer and allows you to get by with two of the same boards.
Transverse stiffening inserts between the shelves are made from scraps of the same board or timber from the frame. There should be 4-7 of them along the length of the spar, evenly distributed. At the ends of the shelves, quarters up to 25x50 mm are selected, under the cutouts in the cross bars of the frame. The top of the spar flanges and frame beams should form one plane.
The spar is assembled using glue and nails. Each insert requires 4 nails; 2 diagonally on each side. Diagonals from different sides - crosswise.
After the frame elements are manufactured, the backrests (the footboard - already with legs, if so intended) are placed vertically, supported by stools or drawers. Then the drawers are applied and the rectangularity of the frame is checked along the diagonals. Wrap the assembly with rope, check the diagonals again and level the frame.
Now you need to mark the places for the dowels connecting the drawer boards with the backs. To do this, use a pencil to draw lines from the inside in the corners from the boards to the backs, having first noted the height; you need 2 dowels per end. The distance from the top and bottom is half the distance between the bosses, i.e. divide the width of the board by 4, 1/4 from the top and bottom; between bosses – 2/4.
We remove the drawers and drill holes in the ends of the boards. We smear the ends of the boards with easily washable paint around the holes (you can erase them with a felt-tip pen), slightly move the backs apart (an assistant is needed here), put the drawers in place, and squeeze the backs tightly; It is not necessary to check the squareness here. Where the response holes are needed is now immediately visible. If it doesn't print well, you can wash it off and repeat, but for all holes at once.
Now we select the holes in the backs and assemble the base so far only on the dowels of the boards/backs, as described above, and with gluing the quarters of the beam. That is, we drive the dowels into the ends of the boards using glue, lubricate the holes in the backs and quarters of the bars with glue, dry them until they are wet and tacky, and use a mallet to guide the backs onto the drawers until they fit tightly. After this, the frame needs to be covered, but not with fabric.
To cover the frame, we place pieces of packaging cardboard on its corners and the middle of the sides and wrap everything tightly with three turns of rope. The knot should be in the middle of the width of the headboard. Here again you can’t do without an assistant.
Then we spread the coils evenly along the width of the boards and insert pieces of pipe or wood of equal diameter in the middle on all four sides. It can be in the range of 20-80 mm, depending on how tightly the rope is stretched, but it is the same for everyone. Immediately, before the glue begins to gelatinize, we check the rectangularity along the diagonals, level it while the frame moves across, and dry without touching it for 2-4 days.
Advice: If you haven’t fitted anything like this before, practice on a dry frame, pick up the round pieces, and only then assemble without glue.
The meaning of this operation is illustrated by the diagram in Fig., known from a school physics course. A small amount of tension in the transverse direction, according to the parallelogram rule, produces a large pulling force along the rope, and the frame will shrink to the limit needed for strength and rigidity after final assembly.
Information for your information: This method of creating great force is well known in military practice for pulling out stuck equipment. The machine's winch cable is led around a tree and caught with a hook. Then the winch is turned on for winding, and the fighter constantly pulls the cable to the side by the middle. In 10-15 minutes, one little wagon pulls a ZIL-131 with a kung with a total weight of 12 tons out of a swamp or quicksand. And without a pull-up from the side, the winch stops as soon as the cable goes tight.
After drying, we drill holes in the corners of the timber frame for the dowels there and place them, also with glue. Then we try on the spar in place; we customize if necessary. We lubricate its mustache and the corresponding cutouts in the beams with glue, put it in place and secure it with steel corners, as shown in the figure. For each wing of the corner you need 3 self-tapping screws.
We perform all these operations without removing the covering. We remove it 2-3 days after installing the spar. Then we reinforce the spar with steel corners according to the diagram in Fig. Now the base is ready, and there is very little left.
What the flooring of the sun lounger is made of has already been said. The flooring is attached to the frame using glue and nails. It is necessary to glue: the flooring not only holds the mattress, but also plays an important role in the overall mechanics of the structure.
For a boardwalk, 20x (80-100) boards are enough. You can take it thicker, it won’t be weaker, only heavier. But you need to decide on the thickness of the flooring right away in order to correctly calculate the location of the frame beam.
Each board requires 8 nails: 2 for the edges and 2 for each intersection with the spar flanges. If the flooring is plywood, then the nails are driven into the corners (it was on the dowel - no big deal) and into the flanges of the spar. Then we “nail” along the perimeter and along the axes of the spar flanges in increments of 80-120 mm.
We wait another day or two, lay out the mattress, make it - the bed is ready! Can be updated in any imaginable way.
The diagram of the bed frame with drawers is shown in the figure. Since there are no drawers and their boards providing rigidity, strength and stability are provided by additional beams in height from the floor to the plane of laying the mattress, i.e. to the top of the frame beams. Beams only work in compression, so the cheapest material is suitable for them: 20 mm chipboard, etc.
At intersections with shelves and beams, appropriate cutouts are made in the beams. The shelves and beams remain intact, otherwise the structure will weaken. The beams are inserted into place by turning the frame over. Align the boxes, drop a couple of drops of PVA into the joints and dry for an hour and a half. Then they turn it over (glue is needed only to prevent the beams from falling out), check it again “on the box” and fasten it with corners according to the diagram.
After this, the box fittings are installed: slides, rollers. The flooring is installed and the bed is ready.
Notes:
- The dimensions of the described beds can be increased to 2.4 x 2 m without changes in design. Strawberry lovers call such beds Swedish. Perhaps associating with the “Swedish troika”.
- The spar of a single bed of this type can be made of a single board 40 x 100 mm.
Generally speaking, a podium bed is any bed without an under-bed space, with or without drawers. But fashion is fashion; It is generally accepted that a podium bed is a bed with a rigid decorative frame around the bed, with or without drawers, as in Fig. There is no big sense here, only the living space is taken away. But fashion is fashion. In the end, you can store something in a frame and arrange drawers.
Drawings of the podium bed are shown in the figure. The dimensions by the author of the design are given in centimeters. Durability and performance are satisfactory. But wooden boards will no longer work for it; you need laminate, MDF or plywood. And the cutting accuracy of the workpieces needs to be high, plus or minus 0.5 mm. Assembly specifications are in the list below the figure.
Parts A – H are made from 22 mm boards; I – J from 16 mm board; K – O is made of 19 mm chipboard, and P is made of 10 mm plywood. In addition, you will need a beam of 27x27 mm for the transverse and 27x47 mm for the longitudinal supports of the mattress; There is no deck chair provided. Overall, it’s still a bit difficult.
There are many varieties of bunk beds on sale, and no wonder: the product is in great demand, given the shortage of living space and the desire of many to have a second child, fueled by benefits. The bunk bed shown in the picture on the right differs from others in that it can be made independently with a minimum of cost and skill.
Note: think of homemade mattresses! More precisely, forget it. Experiments with a skeleton that has not yet formed are fraught with defects in the child’s musculoskeletal system!
The highlight of this bed is the design of the corner posts, the weakest point of all bunk beds. In this case (see figure on the right) they are made each of two boards without inserts and external fasteners. The rigidity and support of the timber frames is provided by pieces of ordinary floor plinth with glue and screws; The joint of the boards is also glued. The bottom of the upper frame, so that the corners and heads of the screws do not become an eyesore, is sewn up with thin fiberboard with a decorative coating using glue and small nails.
The width of the bed in the figure shows the minimum allowable width; it can be increased to 710 mm. It is impossible to make it even wider; the assembly principle does not allow obtaining the required strength. Length – maximum permissible, based on growth. Small ones, unlike adults, are not at all worried if they have to sleep in a rookery that is too large for them.
Another popular bed and sleeping product is the loft bed. Usually it is arranged in a niche, see fig. Purchased ones are a rather complex (and expensive) design with metal elements of strength. But a mattress tray that is in no way inferior to them in strength can be made yourself from the same fifty-fifty timber and 20 mm plywood, see fig. on right. Pay attention to the order of inserting the beams at the ends; it must be followed.
The plywood sheathing on top and bottom needs to be solid. Since the dimensions of a standard plywood sheet are in no way sufficient for sleeping, each shield is assembled from two parts on nails and glue using gusset strips from the same plywood 60-80 mm wide and the length of the internal size of the frame cell. The scarves will go inward; The shields are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws and gluing, as described at the beginning, in increments of 60-80 mm.
When installed in a niche, the pallet is mounted on a rectangular frame made of 80-100 mm steel angle. It is highly advisable to make the staircase steel and use it as an additional support: welded to the frame and with “nickels” on the floor. A suspension bracket around a corner or two needs to be made with support: a bracket, as in the figure, fittings from a triangular corner in the corners, through bolts 12-16 mm with washers 60-80 mm in diameter under the heads.
Mounting racks to the ceiling are made of a steel pipe of at least 30 mm with flanges welded at the top. Fastening each rack to the ceiling - at least at 3 points, evenly distributed around the circumference or perimeter of the flange, with 10-12 mm bolts in steel anchor collets. In this case, if one bolt becomes loose, the others will go awry and still hold, and the slanted gap will immediately let you know that repairs are needed. When fastening to one point or several in a line, a sudden collapse cannot be ruled out.
Notes:
- Don’t be tempted by hooks for chandeliers, even if they hold tons according to the specifications. The chandelier does not climb to its place every evening and does not descend from there in the morning. And she doesn’t toss and turn in her sleep.
- And most importantly, before you start building a loft bed, make sure that the walls and ceiling can support it!
A folding bed is already relevant for adults living in cramped conditions. There are folding mechanisms on sale (see figure) that allow you to make one yourself. The legs (bottom on the left side of the figure and on the right in the central one) recline under the influence of their own weight. The mattress, of course, needs a hard base.
The support requirements are indicated in the specification for the mechanism, but they are low and allow the bed to be installed in rooms with ordinary walls and floors. The principle of operation of the mechanism is such that the force circulates inside it and little is transmitted to the external surfaces.
When choosing a mechanism, you need to pay attention to the design of the dampers, whether they are gas-lift or spring. The first ones work smoothly if the weight of the frame with the mattress is within certain limits. If it turns out to be larger, the frame will come out of the niche with difficulty, and will immediately clatter and clatter, but there is no adjustment. Spring dampers are more expensive, but are adjusted on site to the weight of the bed.
There are also ready-made frames with a mattress on sale, see fig. left. This one can only be attached to the floor, but the price is less than 10,000 rubles. you can't buy a good one.
To install the folding beds described above, you need a wardrobe: the legs spoil the view, but you can’t hide them, they have to fold down. There are also floating folding beds, see fig. on the right, not spoiling the interior when raised. However, due to the heavy loads on the mechanism, this design is not for the DIYer. Even among many furniture companies, only a few can make decent floating beds.
A broken bed is not a reason to run to the store, especially if you have beams and screws at home. With the help of simple materials, anyone can make a double bed with their own hands, and personal preferences and wishes will serve as a guide.
The original bed will exactly match the required size, height and weight of the owner, and will also fit perfectly into the overall interior design.
The bed frame can be made of iron or wood. And if the first option requires special skills in working with iron and hard-to-find materials in the form of profile pipes, then every business person will have beams along with the ability to operate a screwdriver and tighten self-tapping screws.
The assembly of such furniture will take no more than 10 days, and only safe and high-quality materials are used: self-tapping screws, sheet plywood, MDF panel, metal corners, PVA glue, beams and dowels.
Some recommendations will help you competently and quickly assemble a strong and stable bed:
Once everything you need is ready, you can start assembling the bed. The algorithm below will serve as the diagram for making the components of a bed with your own hands.
The first step is to make a rectangular frame, each side of which consists of three beams fastened in height. Next, the following manipulations are necessary:
Four supports are needed in each corner. Each leg is made from two pieces of 4x5 cm timber, gluing their seams with PVA, connecting them together with self-tapping screws and attaching them to the main frame. After which the product is turned over and installed on its legs.
The support bars are provided in the bed drawing and, depending on the appropriate option, come in different thicknesses, heights and locations. Most often they are equal to the internal length of the frame and are attached at the level of the second row.
To create an optimal orthopedic base, the slats are fixed at a distance of about 20 mm, fixing them at the edges and in the center with two self-tapping screws in each place. Afterwards, the future bed is left to allow the glue to dry.
The final treatment consists of sanding the entire surface and thoroughly washing the product. Before painting, a protective wood primer is applied to the perimeter of the structure, and the bed is painted with high-quality wear-resistant varnish in 3-4 layers.
One bed is good, but a children’s bed and a bunk bed are even better, especially since making it with your own hands is as easy as a standard model.
When choosing a suitable scheme, you can experiment with the dimensions and design: make two beds, place a desk, sofa or cabinets on the ground floor.
Experienced and motivated craftsmen will also be interested in another modern and functional model – the podium bed. In this case, you will have to accurately measure all the dimensions of the room and prepare lumber in strict accordance with the required area.
Retractable drawers at the bottom of the bed and side panels hidden by panels are required.
If your soul and body require a new bed, then don’t rush to the store. Making this piece of furniture with your own hands is simple and quick, and the final result will directly depend on individual wishes, taste and space.
Unfortunately, many of us, for various reasons, neglect a comfortable rest in a warm, cozy bed on a comfortable mattress and for many years sleep, for example, on a folding sofa. For those who set out to replace the sofa with a comfortable bed, we offer the cheapest option - making a wooden bed with your own hands, drawings and photographs with a step-by-step description, which will be given in our article.
But in order to rest in comfort, you will have to sweat a little, because assembling the bed yourself is less expensive, but more labor-intensive. And, of course, you cannot do without purchasing a mattress.
In any business, it is important to understand what you are doing! Therefore, before you start doing something, you need to look at what should happen.
This is a sketch of a one-and-a-half bed that we have to assemble with our own hands.
If you already have a mattress, then when making a wooden bed you need to start from its size. In our example, the width of the bed will be 140 cm (the width of the mattress), and about two meters in length.
Dimensional drawing of a simple wooden bed
It is necessary to understand that on this bed the mattress will lie as if in a cell, so the internal dimensions of the frame must be equal to the dimensions of the mattress.
The bed must be not only durable, but also beautiful, so to make the frame we will use a solid board 25 cm wide and 4 cm thick (height). For the frame you will need 2 boards 2.08 m long and 2 boards 1.4 m long. They can be immediately connected to each other with self-tapping screws.
Every bed should have legs. We make them from square timber (50x50 mm). The length of each leg is 25 cm. Since all the edges of the legs are 90° to each other, this will give the frame the correct rectangular shape and add rigidity to the structure.
We screw the frame boards to the legs, and in order to reduce stress in the wood, it is necessary to pre-drill holes for screws (self-tapping screws).
When the frame is assembled, it is necessary to screw supporting strips to the longitudinal beams, which will take the load from the slats (or, as they are also called, logs) and transfer it to the frame and legs of the bed. These planks must have a sufficient margin of safety to withstand the mass of vacationers, so we will use a square beam of 40x40 mm. Since the planks must be on both sides of the frame, we will need two pieces of timber, each 190 cm long.
We insert the supporting strips between the legs of the bed and screw them to the body with self-tapping screws every 15 cm.
Assembling the base of a wooden one-and-a-half bed
To install the logs on which the mattress will lie, you can screw small bars onto the supporting strips, which form grooves. Thus, each lag will fall in its place.
You don't have to make grooves. The logs can be installed at the distance you need. You can also use lamellas, which are sold in stores along with special fasteners. And if you get too lazy to tinker with the joists, you can use, for example, a sheet of plywood. It rests freely on the support bars and does not need to be screwed.
All you have to do is come up with an original headboard for the resulting bed and lay out the mattress. Pleasant dreams.
Below is a list for making the frame of such a bed with your own hands. The frame dimensions are designed for a mattress 2000 x 1600 mm.
for the frame:
13 meters of square timber (80x80 mm):
for sheathing:
12 m of square timber (40x40 mm) for supporting strips and about 50 linear meters of mounting boards with a cross-section of 20x60 mm (lathing).
For the back you need two edged boards with a cross section of 25x160 mm or 30x160 mm, 1600 mm long.
If you have a timber warehouse nearby, the cost of timber and boards will be no more than three thousand rubles. You also need to purchase fasteners.
Assembling the bed frame must begin with the frame; to do this, we tighten together, using large screws with a countersunk head for a hex key, an 80x80 beam. First, we connect two (longitudinal) two-meter sections with a rear (transverse) section 144 cm long. We attach the rear legs at the corners.
In the center of the transverse rear beam we attach an intermediate longitudinal beam 184 cm long. On the opposite side, the intermediate beam is attached to the front transverse beam, strictly in the center of the latter. The length of the front cross beam is 128 cm.
This difference in the length of the front and rear cross bars is due to the difference in the fastening of the front and rear legs.
Drawing of a bed for a mattress 160x200 cm.
If the rear legs were attached in the corners, then the front legs are installed in the spaces between the left and right longitudinal and front transverse beams.
Attaching the rear legs.
Fastening the front legs.
For reliability, the entire body is reinforced with metal plates at the joints of the beams (flat and corner).
When the frame is assembled, on the inside, the beams must be sheathed with 40x40 timber, which will act as the basis for the sheathing.
The 40x40 mm support beam must be fastened in such a way that there is a gap of 20 mm required for the sheathing.
Solid wood double bed base
Using a mounting board, we frame the frame. We make a gap of 2 cm between the boards. Each bed rug should take about 23 boards 68 cm long.
Now that the bed frame is almost ready, all that remains is to make a headboard for it. To do this, take the remaining timber 80x80 mm. If you did everything correctly, there should have been 2 meters left. We saw the timber in half. The resulting racks can be immediately screwed with self-tapping screws to the front legs of the bed, but leaning on such a headboard if you want to lie down on the bed reclining will be very uncomfortable. Therefore, it is necessary that the bed frame and the headboard are at an obtuse angle to each other. To do this, we make an angle cut on the racks, where they are attached to the legs.
But this tilt is not enough, so we file the stand again, only this time in a different direction.
We attach the edged board to the finished racks.
We strengthen the structure of the bed (at the legs) with additional spacers, process the wood and paint it.
The bed is ready, all that remains is to install it in the bedroom and put on the mattress.
In addition to the description, we present to your attention a diagram of the use of hardware when assembling the structure.
A few notes on this drawing:
Black arrows show yellow (yellow-passivated) wood screws of standard size 5×80, fixing the bars of the sheathing base - 40 pcs. Red arrows indicate the location of hardware for assembling the frame (6x120) - 15 pcs. Green - wood bolt (as an additional fastener) - 4 pcs. They require preliminary drilling of holes slightly smaller than the diameter of the hardware. The diagram also shows the location of metal corners and overlays. 8 corners and 2 overlays - dimensions based on the size of the timber. This is the minimum set of fasteners. Fasteners for headboards, jibs and for unforeseen purposes are also needed. So take it with reserve.
Dear readers, if you have any questions, please ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you;)
Should I paint or stain my bed?
The stain will emphasize the texture of the wood, the wood paint will make the frame complete and will allow the structure to fit into the interior.
Hello, I liked your bed, everything is beautiful and clear. Could you calculate the amount of material for the same bed but with a bed size of 180x200 cm. Yourself
I can’t calculate it because I’m not a professional. Help me please.
For better clarity, I added a drawing of the bed frame to the article, but this example is for a 160x200 cm mattress.
In your case (180x200), the number of lengths of the transverse elements will change:
1. At the head: the supporting beams (40x40) will be 780 mm each and the frame beam (80x80) will be 1440 mm.
2 At the feet: the supporting bars were 600 mm, now they will be 700 mm. The frame beam was 1440 mm, it will be 1640 mm.
Good afternoon Please tell me if it is possible to use 50*50 timber instead of 80*80 timber using metal corners with a stiffener around the perimeter for rigidity. 80*80 timber makes the bed heavy. Thank you in advance
If you plan to use the corners of this, then this will strengthen the structure as a whole, but of course it will not save the longitudinal and even transverse bars from sagging. The 50x50 beam is too weak for these purposes. Of course, you will assemble a bed using it as a basis, but it may break under you on the very first night. You shouldn’t risk your neighbors’ nerves and your health. Regarding the weight: you are making a bed from natural materials - this is an undeniable plus, as is the appearance with proper processing. Also, do not forget that the bed is collapsible, when moving or moving, it will be easy to divide and move it wherever needed. I think the weight problem is far-fetched
Very clear explanation and drawing. Thank you. But could you tell me specifically (for especially gifted ones) what kind of fasteners, what sizes and how many should be purchased. The fact is that I am still a big layman in this and will assemble the bed myself. Thanks for the answer.
Inna, the answers to your questions have been moved to the article
Hello. In the manufacturing technology you describe, all parts of the bed are assembled using self-tapping screws. In this regard, I have a few questions, they may seem simple, but I would still like to hear the opinion of an experienced person:
1. How to choose the correct screw length depending on the thickness of the parts?
2. How can you strengthen the connection of wooden parts with self-tapping screws? Over time, it can become loose, and even more so, it will begin to hold together, constantly tightening or something?
3. How can I attach the bed frame to the legs without screws?
Thanks in advance for clarifications.
Alexander:
1. The length of the screws should be as long as possible to ensure optimal strength of the assembly. If the thickness of each of the two parts being connected is 40 mm, self-tapping screws are selected within the range of 70-75 mm, taking into account the depth of the head by 2-3 mm.
2. The best way to further strengthen the connection is to use wood glue, which is used to pre-lubricate the joint.
3. Instead of a screw, long M10 or M12 bolts can be used to connect solid wooden parts. To install them, through holes with a diameter equal to the diameter of the thread are drilled in the legs. Similar holes are drilled at the ends of the boards. To install the washer and nut in the harness, drill a blind hole with a 20-25 mm diameter drill bit so that it is perpendicular to the end holes.
It turned out to be a normal crib
A LOT OF HEAVY BUT STRONG ENOUGH
Hello.
For a double bed, it turns out that in the area of the rear leg, the bed is attached to the leg with 2 self-tapping screws (for cutting).
You can add if you think it necessary
Hello, Alexander! I was looking for a bed like the one you made, so that I could at least explain in the workshop what needs to be made for me. Only imported ones are available for sale, incl. with delivery from abroad. Unfortunately, on the Internet there is often no signature of the author under an article or note, in which city he lives and how you can contact him if you really need to. Your publication is no exception. I would love to ask you to make such a bed. And I also have a question: instead of a mattress, can I put a layer of rubber, a layer of foam rubber and a layer of batting on top? Or something similar, flat, semi-rigid. How is this done and secured? The point of this whole idea in general is to get a bed without a wooden frame around the perimeter, so that your feet do not rub against the edge of the wooden frame (and if over time the mattress sags, then you will have to sit on the wooden edge). And I want a semi-rigid, non-springy base (see above). I have one such bed. I need approximately the same functionality.
Yes, indeed, I am so tired of sleeping on my uncomfortable folding sofa. After reading your article, I immediately began to desire to create my own bed, because then I would be able to take into account everything that I would like to see in my bed. The only BUT is that I have practically no tools, most likely I will have to borrow tools from a friend so as not to spend money on the purchase.
Good afternoon,
please tell me how a 1600x2000 mattress is fixed to your 1600x2000 frame?
Sincerely,
Vadim
No way, put it on top, if you are careful that it will move, this will not happen.
I just looked at a similar bed with a mattress, its frame is slightly higher than the lower level of the mattress, and the size is slightly larger - let’s say 1605x2000, but the mattress lies on the base - without touching the restrictive side elements of the frame.
Good afternoon, thank you for there being people sharing their experiences!
I will also ask you for advice.
There is a non-standard orthopedic mattress 120*200. You will have to make a non-standard bed frame.
Please tell me what materials (their sizes) should be purchased in this case.
Thank you in advance.
But I wanted to make the legs of the bed directly under the beams, so that the beams would rest on them, and not be attached to the sides, is there any difference in this?
Hello. But I’m wondering if the bed turns out to be the same level, and the mattress can move out. How can I make it fit securely into the recess for it?
Daniel, the option you suggested is more preferable, so go for it
Alla, calculate the materials by analogy with the proposed option, only the width of the bed will change
Yuri, you are right, this is the design of this version of the bed
Nowadays it is fashionable to make furniture yourself at home, and every year the number of home craftsmen is increasing. Some people prefer to purchase blanks and use them to assemble the necessary furniture, while others do all the work themselves from start to finish. A homemade bed can be very simple or with intricate shapes and patterns. It's not just about skill and availability of equipment - personal preferences and financial capabilities play an important role. In this article we will tell you how to make a bed with your own hands from various materials.
In order for the product to please you and to be able to use it for a long time, you need to approach the matter very responsibly, realizing the limits of your capabilities. It is necessary to select a suitable model and prepare the tool taking into account the material used.
Depending on the material chosen, certain tools will be required to work with it.
As for consumables, we’ll talk about this separately when considering this or that model.
Materials for making a bed:
The above materials can be used either individually or in combination. Thus, a metal bed can be equipped with wooden backs, and a plywood product is assembled on a frame made of timber. There can be many options, and you can understand this in more detail by reading the article.
The first step is to clearly determine what the dimensions of the future bed will be, taking into account its location. It is possible that you are modernizing your bedroom, changing its design, then you can move away from the usual bed placement patterns and find a new place for it. If so, then pay attention to a number of tips that will help with this.
It may seem like there is no room left for a bed in the bedroom, but this is not the case. We have only given recommendations, and you can decide for yourself how relevant they are in your case.
Don't be fooled by the apparent simplicity of the design. You need to be prepared for the fact that you will have to work a lot to make a bed from solid wood. If you are determined, then there is every chance to do something original while saving money. It is quite natural that it is not easy to immediately decide on the design of the bed, so first look at a few photos of wood products.
Having chosen the product you like, you can find a similar drawing on the Internet or draw it yourself, taking into account the dimensions of the room and personal preferences. Often, home craftsmen take a drawing of a bed and remake it to suit themselves, removing or adding something.
If you are not going to sleep on boards, then when planning the size of the bed you need to take into account the dimensions of the mattress. If you have not purchased it yet, then you need to take care of this in advance or find out the standard sizes on selling sites and build on this data. If you plan to make a bed of non-standard sizes, it is important to know that the mattress will have to be made to order.
A custom-made mattress will cost a little more.
It is clear that in a relatively short article it will not be possible to describe the manufacture of several wooden beds, and we are not striving for this. Based on the example given, you can understand how to assemble a bed from solid wood.
Let's look at an example of making a wooden bed for a 200x160 cm mattress, if you have a minimum of tools - only the most necessary ones.
The actual dimensions of the mattress often differ from those declared by the manufacturer, and to a smaller extent. After purchasing a mattress, measure it, and then adjust the dimensions of the bed to fit it.
If there is no drawing with a bed suitable for the size of the mattress, then you can take any one you like as a basis, altering it to your size. If the design is very simple, then you can draw a sketch yourself.
Let’s say that after checking the dimensions of the mattress it turned out that its length and width are one centimeter less than stated - 199x159 cm. The following material will be needed:
Having a clear idea of the quantity and size of the required material, you can go to the store to buy it.
The frame can be assembled on the floor or on four stools.
So, we need to make a rectangle with internal dimensions of 200x160 cm, which corresponds to the dimensions of the mattress + 1 cm tolerance. Each side of the frame will consist of three beams assembled into a single structure.
The bed being manufactured has 4 legs located in the corners, but to be on the safe side, you can install a fifth support point in the center - then the base will definitely not bend.
You may have noticed that we still have 3 boards left. We will make a backrest out of them, as in the photo.
The height of the backrest is 45 cm and the width is 170 cm, but this is not important, since it will not be integral with the bed - we will fix it on the wall at the same level as the mattress.
Making it is not at all difficult. Three boards are sawn off to 170 cm each. From the scraps we make 11 boards of 45 cm each. If there are not enough boards of 45 cm each, then 2 boards of 40-42 cm each can be screwed through one board. Just like the bed, the backrest needs to be given a presentable look , varnishing it.
The backrest can be hung on hooks, only in this case it will knock on the wall. More practical is to firmly fix the backrest to the wall. Now the wooden bed can be used.
Making structures from chipboard may seem very difficult due to the characteristics of this material. If you cut, sand and glue the edges at home, then some difficulties arise, especially with cutting laminated chipboard, since the decorative layer can be damaged. Many problems can be avoided if you make a drawing in advance and order the production of parts in a furniture workshop. At home, all that remains is to assemble the structure.
This time we will look at the process of making a small single bed with two drawers. Here is an example of cutting a standard chipboard sheet for one bed.
From the remains of the stove you can make shelves for books or something else needed in the household.
So, we have a ready-made set of parts that need to be assembled to make a bed.
To do the job you will need the following tool:
You will also need consumables:
Now let's start assembling.
Since a 200x70 cm mattress will be used, we will adjust the existing slats to the width of the mattress, making them 70 cm long. As a result, there will be 12 of them.
On ten slats on one side you need to fix the corners.
First, let's make drawers that can be pushed under the bed. First of all, let's assemble the frame. To do this, we lay out the blanks so that the part covered with the edge is at the top. When assembling, it is important not to mix up the sides. It’s good if the edge is not glued to the end of the inner part, then you won’t get confused. If the edges of the parts are glued in a circle (which is incorrect), then you need to try to fold the box without twisting it, and then attach the bottom. Once you are sure that everything matches, you can begin assembly.
Stepping back about 3 cm from the bottom (or top) edge, you need to drill a hole with a confirmation drill. This must be done carefully, as one awkward movement will ruin the part. The thickness of the chipboard is 16 mm, so we retreat 8 mm from the edge of the workpiece, slightly core it and drill a hole without the slightest deviation.
If you have never assembled furniture from chipboard, then first practice on unused leftover sheets.
By connecting the parts, we get such a box.
In order to screw the bottom, eight confirmats are enough - 2 on each side. These drawers are not designed to hold very heavy items because the plastic casters are not designed for that.
All that remains is to attach the handle and install the rollers. One box is ready, now the second one is assembled in the same sequence.
Putting the finished drawers aside, let's start assembling the bed. Since the drawers will be installed on one side, you need to assemble 3 parts together, using 3 confirmats on each side.
As a result, we will get a “bench” like this.
Now we will assemble a decorative box, thanks to which the mattress will be fixed. This part is not as high as the base of the bed, so 2 confirmats will be used on each side.
We put the resulting frame on the bed frame so that it does not interfere with pulling out the drawers, and we connect them together from the inside with 3.5 × 30 mm self-tapping screws.
You need to nail down the plastic legs.
Let's start making the fins. On the front of the frame, you need to draw a line from one edge to the other along the height of the bed frame. Now we will fasten the bars with corners screwed to them every 13 cm, so that their lower part is aligned along the line.
Instead of fins made from boards, you can use a laminated chipboard cut to size.
After this, all that remains is to screw the bars to the opposite side using 30 mm self-tapping screws.
Having rolled up the drawers and laid out the mattress, you can start using the bed.
As you can see, with the right approach it will not be difficult to assemble a bed from laminated chipboard at home. The design can be of any size, as in the following video.
Beds made from pallets are now in fashion. At first glance, it may seem that this kind of design would be appropriate only in some provincial dacha, but this is not so, because beds made from pallets can also be found in houses with rather rich furnishings.
Let's move on from words to action. Let's consider one of the options for assembling a bed from pallets. How many of them will you need? It all depends on the size and design of the product being manufactured. So, a single bed with legs can be made from 2 pallets, and without legs - from 4. We used 8 pallets to make our double bed.
If there is such a possibility, then you need to choose as complete pallets as possible. They need to be sanded.
All pallets should be painted using non-toxic wood paint. Since wood is very hygroscopic, most likely the pallets will need to be painted 2-3 times.
If there is such a desire, then you can open the blanks with varnish.
Having laid the first row of pallets, you need to fasten them together. If the wood is very strong, then holes are drilled for the screws.
Then the second row is laid.
All pallets are fastened together using metal plates and fixed with wood screws.
Thanks to this simple technology, you can make a pretty decent bed from pallets.
You can also make a back from pallets.
You can assemble some furniture from the remains of pallets and install it near the bed. In general - who likes what.
A product made from plywood will not surprise anyone, but it can also be used to make furniture at home. We will use FSF brand sheets, since not all plywood is suitable for making a bed.
Let's look at an example of making a bed for a spring mattress 1900x900x200 mm.
The thickness of the plywood used can be 12, 15 or 18 mm. Thin sheets can be used when fastening plywood with screws. A bed made from 18 mm plywood will be more durable, but very heavy, so it is preferable to use sheets 15 mm thick - they are much stronger than standard laminated chipboard.
As for the tools, they are the same as for working with chipboard. Instead of screws, you can use wood screws.
The side wall at the back of the bed is large in height. This is done so that the drawers pushed under the bed do not rest against the walls. If there are no drawers, then the side walls can be made the same.
From an existing sheet of plywood you need to cut out parts corresponding to the drawing.
If desired, you can use laminated plywood. In this case, it is important to consider that cutting such a sheet at home without damaging the laminated coating is very difficult. In addition, the edges will then need to be covered with furniture edges.
To cut plywood, you need to use a file with a fine tooth, and move the jigsaw slowly - this way we will get an even cut without chips. As a result, we should have parts of the following sizes:
If you use a soft one instead of a spring mattress on a frame, then you need to cut out the bottom from plywood and screw it to the bars on top.
As you can see, there is nothing complicated in making a bed from plywood.
If you have some welding skills, you can make a metal bed. We will not even consider the bolted connection option, since such a product will very quickly become loose.
Look at the photo of a collapsible metal bunk bed. Agree that she looks very presentable.
For its manufacture the following materials were needed:
In addition to the pipes, metal primer and hammer paint were purchased.
One of the advantages of such a bed is the absence of bent parts, so a pipe bending machine is not needed to make it.
If you buy pipes rather than use those that have been lying in the garage for several years, then do not opt for rusty ones, since they will then need to be cleaned for a long time.
Since the bed is collapsible, its parts can be made in parts. Let's start with the backs.
Now let's start making the shelves.
The time has come to assemble the structure together; for this we will use some more welding.
Since our bed is collapsible, we will make universal fasteners for it.
It is also necessary to make a small ladder, the dimensions of which can be arbitrary.
If the bed is made for children, then its length can be significantly reduced.
As you can see, you can make a beautiful and durable metal bed at home.
If you want to do something original, then when making a bed, instead of standard profile pipes, you can use forging elements.
Such parts are sold in specialized stores or made to order. Good results can be achieved using bent parts, and you can bend them yourself.
People may have the misconception that the legs of a metal bed will look rough. If you set a goal, this element can also be made very attractive.
An incorrectly selected bed can cause a lot of inconvenience. Here are some tips from experts in this field:
Since we are talking about a mattress, there are some nuances of choice here.
As for the design features of the bed, it is a matter of personal preference and convenience. In a small room you can place a bed, under which there will be drawers, foldable or pulled out from the podium. In a large room, you can give free rein to your imagination by making a wide bed.
A single bed is installed in cases where it is planned that only one person will sleep on it, be it a child or an adult. Also, 2 or more beds can be installed in one room, for example for two children. Be that as it may, you first need to decide which design is suitable, and then start manufacturing. Photos of homemade single beds can help with this.
As a rule, married couples sleep together (at least for the first few years), and in order for this bed to be comfortable to sleep on, you need to take care of its size and design. Look at the photo exhibition of double products.
Usually a double bed is made for children. It can be either a simple bed or a fairytale castle in which the child will be happy to fall asleep. When choosing the design of this kind of children's bed, you need to think about both convenience and design.
Today, many people are concerned about the environmental cleanliness of their living space. Health-safe furniture products, the production of which uses materials of natural origin, are no exception. This question is more relevant for furniture in the bedroom, in particular for the bed, where each of us spends a third of our lives, resting and gaining energy to actively work during the day. Nowadays such beds are purchased in stores, but they are quite expensive, and problems arise with the selection of sizes or design solutions. So, more and more often, many people decide to make such furniture themselves.
How do you make a double bed with your own hands, the drawings and diagrams of which are given in this article? First you need to decide on the materials. The main thing is to purchase MDF, the thickness of which is three centimeters. You will have to cut out individual parts from it so that their texture resembles expensive wood.
In addition to MDF, it is recommended to buy laminate boards. In this case, during installation work you will need nitro glue, while MDF is normally connected with a simple PVA adhesive. This is one of the reasons why professional craftsmen prefer to work only with MDF. It should be noted that purchasing sheets of material at retail prices is not entirely profitable. If there is a furniture factory in the city, it is best to buy sheets with edges prepared for work there. Interior elements can be prepared from wooden boards, two centimeters thick, or multi-layer plywood.
So, in addition to MDF, you will need to buy:
The choice of wood species is at your discretion. But one condition must be met - boards, beams and plywood are purchased edged and planed.
To avoid difficulties in making bed elements, fitting them and assembling furniture, you must always have the following assistants on hand:
Here are several options for drawings according to which you can make a bed for two beds:
And this model has a drawer at the head in which you can store bed linen:
Another version with drawers located near the floor:
We have decided on the materials and tools; now we need to cut out the elements. If there is no special equipment and sufficient free space, then you should seek help from specialists. Moreover, in an apartment it is quite difficult to achieve rectangular sections when cutting. Since the bed is supposed to have a mattress, a base for it should be made of sixteen-millimeter plywood, the parameters of which are 1.6 by 2 meters. The remaining elements should be manufactured in specified quantities according to certain sizes, according to the developed drawing. From the main parts it is necessary to make the upper and lower base of the podium, the top for the headboard (1 piece), transverse stiffeners (at least three), two rigid transverse ribs, four limiters for the headboard and three racks.
Simple fasteners are used to connect individual wooden elements. You can purchase it in a regular store that sells furniture fittings. To make the furniture durable, you should buy self-tapping screws and metal corners with holes:
In most cases, a double bed made on your own ends up being much cheaper in the long run. And the maximum part of the costs is spent on purchasing a mattress. To purchase it, you need to clarify the dimensions of the bed so as not to remodel it or change the mattress, choosing a model that is suitable in size.
To make the crib comfortable, it is not recommended to save money on this element. The mattress must be of high quality and comfortable, and lie correctly on the base.
Many people try to make it, like a bed, on their own. But such work raises certain difficulties, because you want to do it in such a way that the final mattress turns out to be no worse than an orthopedic one that can be purchased in a store. You need to know that a homemade mattress should not be used by people under twenty-five years of age. And if a person experiences problems with the spine, he should definitely choose an orthopedic model in the store, taking into account his weight category, age and height when purchasing.
When the design solution for making a bed does not include a side, the mattress will most likely fall off it during sleep. On average, such a product weighs about eighty kilograms and is located on a highly sliding surface. This can cause injury and other unfortunate consequences.
In addition, the mattress must be weathered and “breathe”. And a double bed, made by yourself, most often under its base does not have the space necessary for ventilation.
In such cases, the mattress should be attached to the base of the bed, but not tightly. After all, you will have to change the mattress covers, replace the product with a more comfortable one. In such cases, you should use Velcro for clothing. One side is sewn to the mattress, the other is fixed to the bed using a stapler. To improve ventilation, holes should be drilled with a milling cutter.
First, the frame base is prepared. This part of the work is the easiest, because appearance at this stage is not particularly important. All mistakes made in the work can then be easily hidden with decorative finishing.
Now you need to determine the height for the legs (if provided for in the drawings), and add to its data the height of the panel, which is located on the sides. Four pieces of equal length are sawn off from the prepared block. A fastening element is fixed to each of them using self-tapping screws or nails.
If you already have a mattress, you need to measure its width and cut a couple of pieces of board to fit, leaving a small margin. They are fixed into metal fasteners, which are already installed on the legs. The next step is to measure the length of the mattress. Based on the data obtained, we prepare a pair of boards, the length of which is shorter than the mattress board by a value equal to the width of one leg. If the mattress is quite wide, it is recommended to provide an additional support beam in the central part of the frame base. To do this, the distance from the short sidewalls is measured, the board is cut to the required length and inserted into the central part of the base, secured with special metal fasteners.
Boards are attached transversely to a rectangular base, the gaps between which are about five centimeters. With their help, the mattress will be held and additional shock absorption will be created. The length of such boards should match the width of the future bed. They are fastened with screws.
It's time to move on to finishing work. We turn the manufactured frame base upside down. A board intended for finishing is placed along one edge, marked in size and cut. Similar actions are carried out on the second side.
The boards are glued to the frame base using carpentry glue, trimmed along the edges of the legs (top), secured with clamps, and the time required for the adhesive to dry completely is waited.
The edge is mounted on top. To do this, you will need a board whose width is eleven centimeters. It is necessary to cut boards from the workpiece along the length of the sides of the rectangular frame, bevel the ends at an angle equal to forty-five degrees. Small stiffening ribs made from a bar with a cross-section of five by five centimeters are installed on the walls. Everything is secured with glue and nails.
If you want the legs to look aesthetically pleasing, prepare boards that will hide them. Their height should be somewhat less so that the load from the bed does not cause damage. This finish can be secured with glue or self-tapping screws. In this case, you should try to ensure that the fastening points are not noticeable.
Now it's time for the headboard. At the back of each leg we attach boards 5 by 10 cm. Their height exceeds the base, but should not extend beyond the top edge. We grab the boards with clamps and drill holes that should partially go into the legs. We insert the bolts here and tighten them with a wrench, not forgetting the washers. The headboard turns out to be the simplest, in the form of a regular shield, adjusted to the size you need. If you decide to make a bed with a soft headboard, you will have to work a little more, but the task is quite doable.
All that remains is to seal the holes with putty and sand all the elements of the bed. Their surface should be processed until it becomes perfectly smooth. Now you can treat the bed with stain and only then with a varnish composition.
The product is environmentally friendly. After all, materials of natural origin are used in the work. The bed is durable and can be used for a long time, withstanding significant loads. It is possible to develop design solutions of various shapes, decorate at your discretion, and decorate the front and back walls with wood carvings. Working independently, you can make a bed of the required size, successfully fitting it into the interior of the room. In addition, there is a good opportunity to save money.
If you want a double bed to fully meet your requirements and not be too expensive, try designing it yourself.
The material for work should be selected so that it can be processed without difficulty and is not too expensive. It will be easier to purchase ready-made sheets and cut out the necessary elements from them, following your drawings.
It is recommended to acquire all the necessary tools. They will help you in your work and will always be useful in the future.
It is best to make a double mattress to extend its service life and give it strength. It is best if each layer is made of materials of different densities - this will provide additional comfort. Try to make the top layer denser. For cladding and padding, use natural materials that do not contain synthetic or chemical additives. Otherwise, there is a high probability of developing an allergic reaction. It is best if the mattress is purchased in a store.
If such work has never been performed, then it is best to place the double bed on a podium made of laminated chipboard. It’s not difficult to make; any novice craftsman can handle the job. There is no need to rack your brains over the design of retractable elements and lifting parts - free space is already provided on the podium.
It should be remembered that the design of the bed should be in harmony with the room and combined with other furniture.
Sleep is the main form of rest for the body. And to make it healthy and of high quality, you should sleep on a comfortable bed. And if it is also made with your own hands, the holiday will seem doubly pleasant. Go for it, and everything will work out for you!
