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» Roof passage for chimney. Installation of a chimney from a sandwich pipe through the roof: step-by-step instructions for installing a chimney from a sandwich pipe through rooms, ceilings and roofs. Ondulin roofing

Roof passage for chimney. Installation of a chimney from a sandwich pipe through the roof: step-by-step instructions for installing a chimney from a sandwich pipe through rooms, ceilings and roofs. Ondulin roofing

The theme of arranging low-rise buildings, which are increasingly appearing in suburban areas, is gaining popularity again. People want to have their own property, where they can live year-round in comfort and safety. Independence from utilities, fresh air, lack of city fuss and a lot of factors that are rather fed up with the townspeople, became the reason for the acquisition or construction of country houses, and their arrangement for the purpose of comfortable living. One of the main issues in the arrangement that worries the owners is how to bring the chimney through the roof to ensure normal heating of buildings in the cold season and the safety of building operation.

When equipping a heating system that will operate from a stove or other device, it is necessary to accurately determine the design of the removal of combustion products, taking into account all the necessary fire safety rules and without violating the tightness of the roof.

Features of choosing a location

Getting the chimney through the roof is not as easy as it seems. Incorrect determination of the place where the pipe will be installed can further lead to poor-quality operation of the entire heating system and not only that. We list the main problems that may arise if the wrong place is chosen for the removal of combustion products in the furnace, taking into account the fact that the sealing of the chimney on the roof and the roof itself will not be broken.

  • It is not recommended to install in areas located near ventilation holes and skylights to prevent carbon monoxide from entering the interior of the room.
  • Mounting at the joints of the slope, where there is an external corner, is not recommended, as this will lead to accumulation of snow in winter period.
  • Do not use rigid material to fasten the system. This is taken into account for those cases if the roof itself “floats” for any reason. If the system is fixed rigidly, the drainage system will suffer along with the roof.

Experienced builders advise installing a chimney system directly near the ridge. Why in this place and not in some other place:

  • In the joint area of ​​​​the structure, the flow of moisture is excluded, because in this place during snowfalls the least amount of snow accumulates.
  • The location of the pipe in the immediate vicinity of the roof ridge, reduces the impact external factors. By placing the structure near the ridge, favorable conditions least condensate collection in this place.

Increasing the distance from the ridge affects the height of the chimney structure itself, as it rises above the roof. If there is another building nearby that obscures the exit node, then this factor must also be taken into account, raising the height of the structure above the structure.

Features of the adjoining structure

Before you run the chimney through the roof, you need to prepare special elements, the manufacture of which requires different materials. Initially, the following points are taken into account:

  • Specifications of the material used for mounting.
  • What is the roof made of?
  • Waterproofing the chimney on the roof, as well as the use of an apron as a mounting element.

The design for the removal of combustion products uses a material with different characteristics operation. It can be refractory bricks, metal, ceramic parts, even glass, which has undergone special pre-treatment. The main factor in the choice is the peculiarity of the operation of the chimney pipe with the calculation of the temperature of the combustion products. The junction may vary depending on the base from which the structure is made. When installing a chimney through the roof, the degree of protection of the roof from moisture with the help of waterproofing and insulation is taken into account. A feature of the installation is the use of additional layers of hydro- and vapor barrier, which should not have gaps and joints during installation.

According to the standards for safe operation of buildings, the distance between exhaust systems and combustible elements should not be less than 15 cm. This requirement obliges the presence of a special pipe box that provides a buffer layer in the area where the chimney structure is adjacent. Experts recommend separating the junction area from the roof structure with a system of transverse beams and rafter legs. The way in which the protective film is made, taking into account the required distance, is performed with cutting by the envelope method and fixing the material with staples to the edges of the beam.

In the future, the waterproofing film is fixed with a crate, and the vapor barrier layer with a finish that will be used as fasteners.

Roofs from ondulin, output features

Before removing the pipe, it is necessary to study the technical features of the material from which the roof is made. Ondulin is included in the list of roofing material, which is used for the arrangement of low-rise buildings. The conclusion of the chimney through the roof of ondulin involves some features when performing installation work.

  • When choosing a location, it is best to pass the pipe through the ondulin roof near the ridge. It is required before installation to provide the necessary height protrusion above the top of the ridge, with minimal impact of adverse factors. The same condition is optimal in preventing the accumulation of moisture and other elements in the construction area.
  • The passage through the roof for the chimney is carried out at a distance from the location of the dormers.
  • The passage of the pipe through the roof is not carried out at the joints of the slopes, as this will lead to the accumulation of snow at the junction.
  • The fastening of the structure should not be rigid, in order to avoid violation of the smoke exhaust system in case of destruction of the roofing material.

It also takes into account the material from which it will be made. The passage of the chimney through the roof is carried out with the condition of using a roofing pie in the construction. Before installing a chimney through an ondulin roof, it is necessary to prepare an additional structure in the form of a box to ensure the fire safety of the entire building. The following additional steps need to be taken:

  • Installation of rafter "legs" on both sides of the chimney pipe.
  • With the help of transverse beams, the chimney pipe is fixed at the lower and upper points, taking into account the thickness of the rafter "legs".

In all other respects, the passage technology and the chimney device are carried out according to the standards that are used in the performance of such work.

Decking: output features

Many developers are interested in the question of how to correctly bring the chimney through the roof if it is made of corrugated board. Roofs from a professional flooring differ in ease, durability and reliability in operation. Many developers use it as the basis of the roof. When making a passage through a roof made of a profiled sheet, there are no fundamental differences in the design, the place in the roof and the material to be used are chosen in the same way.

Before passing the chimney through a roof made of profile sheets it is required to gradually distribute all types of work, taking into account each element of the structure.

  • The diameter, thickness and material from which it will be made are determined. The quality of traction depends on the height and evenness of the laying.
  • Before making a hole in the roof, it is necessary to take into account not only the dimensions of the pipe, but also the fasteners with which the structure will be fixed.
  • When connecting to the rafter system, it is necessary to take into account the presence of a protective box.
  • In the presence of complex types of roofs using insulation, it is recommended to pass the chimney from sandwich pipes through the ceiling, attic and roofing material. Using a chimney sandwich during installation, the entire structure in the assembly is carried out extremely simply and quickly.

The principle of output is in many ways reminiscent of the standard installation of structures:

  • Using a ready-made chimney sandwich, you can not waste time for insulation. Installing a chimney from a sandwich pipe through the roof greatly simplifies the work.
  • Using a passageway as a structural element, the best sealing of the joint is ensured, which excludes moisture from entering the attic space. As a through pipe, the most rational option is to use the material from which the pipe itself is made. There are ready-made elements on sale that completely solve the issue of sealing the joint and its elasticity, this is especially important if the roof has a corrugated surface.
  • The node for the passage of the pipe through the roof has several varieties, its type is selected in accordance with the diameter and shape of the system.

Slate roof: system output

Slate has not been used as often lately as other, more modern and popular ones. Nevertheless, its relevance in construction remains high in demand. The output of the smoke hole in is carried out using a special circle to ensure the evenness of the edges. The most popular material for making slate roof are refractory bricks or prefabricated ceramic pipes. Before fixing the chimney on the roof, a special apron is made of slate, most often galvanized or stainless steel is used as the basis.

Returning to the question of how to close the joint with the roofing material, which is used as slate sheets, it would be appropriate to use a ready-made penetration, which ensures the maximum quality of sealing. In all other matters relating to the organization of installation work on the construction of the device on slate roof they are not much different from laying options with other types of roofs.

Metal tile: design output features

The passage of a chimney through a metal roof is in many ways reminiscent of the principle of working with a similar material, or rather corrugated board:

  • The installation location, diameter and length are determined.
  • On the surface of the roof, markings are made to cut a hole, taking into account a slight deviation (1.5 cm) in the direction of increase.
  • To install a chimney system passing to the roof through attic rooms, boxes are used that are attached to the truss system. When cutting into the roof, the presence of waterproofing and insulation is also taken into account.
  • When installing on roofs that are complex in type, it is better to use sandwich pipes, this will make it possible to assemble the structure from parts, which in turn saves time and facilitates the work.

Many novice masters are interested in why insulation is required and how to do it correctly. In construction, a material is used as insulation, which is characterized by high fire resistance. Mineral wool and fiberglass will not only provide least loss heat, but also protect the home from fire. Work on the insulation of a multi-layer type of roof should be carried out in such a way that they do not interfere with the subsequent installation of the pipe itself.

Elements that are used for conclusions and sealing

Most often, chimneys have the shape of a circle, which complicates the implementation of holes in the roofing material, which can subsequently affect the tightness of the joints of the two systems: the roof and the chimney. In order to improve the quality of penetration with further fixing to the roof structure and compliance with the sealing quality required, builders use ready-made penetrations that differ in the form of manufacture and the method of creating elasticity at the joints. For convenience, there are several varieties of this element, which is also used when installing ventilation ducts.

In buildings with furnace heating, such as a private house, bath and others, the construction of a chimney and the organization of its output to the outside are required. When arranging the passage of the pipe through the roof, certain norms must be observed in order to ensure safety and maintain the protective properties of the roof.

Chimney passage through the roof

The flue is intended for an output of products of combustion of fuel (coal, gas, firewood, peat) and formation of furnace draft. The method of pipe exit through the roof is determined at the design stage. The main condition for this is to ensure the fire safety of the roof, especially at its junction with the pipe, as well as the protection of the junction from the ingress of atmospheric moisture into it and the accumulation of condensate. The height of the pipe is assigned by the norms of SNiP and depends on the distance at which it is located from the roof ridge:

  • if the distance from the center of the pipe to the ridge is not more than 1500 mm, then the height of the pipe above the ridge must be at least 500 mm;
  • with a distance between the center of the chimney and the roof ridge from 1500 to 3000 mm, the height of the pipe coincides with the height of the ridge;
  • if the distance exceeds 3000 mm, the height of the chimney must not be lower than the line drawn from the ridge at an angle of 10°.

The height of the chimney pipe is determined by the norms of SNiP and depends on the distance to the roof ridge

The smaller the distance from the pipe to the ridge, the greater the height of the pipe should be.

Chimney passage assembly

This element can be located in different places on the roof. One of the options preferred by roofers is the passage of the chimney directly through the ridge. This method is distinguished by the easiest installation and avoids the accumulation of snow above the pipe wall. The disadvantage of this arrangement is a decrease in the strength of the truss system, in which the ridge beam is either absent or sawn and fixed with two supports on the sides of the pipe outlet, which is not always possible to implement.

The outlet of the chimney through the ridge is simple to install, but may compromise the strength of the truss system

Most often, the pipe is located near the ridge. So the chimney is least of all exposed to the action of cold, and therefore to the accumulation of condensate inside. The disadvantage of this arrangement will be that the closer the pipe is to the ridge, the greater its height, which means that the construction will require additional funds.

The outlet of the chimney at a short distance from the ridge is the most common and convenient option

It is not recommended to run the chimney through the valley, as snow can accumulate in these places, which will lead to a violation of the waterproofing and the occurrence of leaks. In addition, it is difficult to organize a chimney box at the junction of the slopes. Do not place the chimney in the lower part of the slope - it can be damaged by snow falling from the roof.

The material from which the pipe is made also affects the organization of its output system. Typically, pipes are made of metal, asbestos cement or refractory bricks, but sometimes ceramic ones are also found. The methods of their waterproofing will be different. In addition, each type of fuel has a certain combustion temperature, and this must also be taken into account when constructing a chimney.

Depending on the shape of the chimney, the outlet can be square, round, oval or rectangular. To protect the roof covering from the action of elevated temperatures and protect it from fire, a box is arranged around the chimney. It happens like this:

  1. Additional rafters are installed to the right and left of the pipe.
  2. Horizontal beams are laid at the bottom and top at the same distance and of a similar section. The distance between the box beams and the pipe walls is determined by SNiP and is 140–250 mm.
  3. Inside the box is filled with non-combustible insulating material, for example, stone or basalt wool. Fiberglass is not recommended because of its easy flammability.

The space of the box should not be filled with fiberglass - it can ignite under the influence of high temperatures

It must be taken into account that the construction of the duct can disrupt the ventilation of the under-roof space, so additional ventilation systems can be installed.

Video: installation features of the chimney passage assembly

Features of the output of the chimney through different types of roofs

When arranging the passage of the chimney, attention must be paid to protection against atmospheric precipitation, which will flow down the chimney and roof. To waterproof the connection between the pipe and the roof, a protective apron is arranged around the chimney. This technology is similar for roofs with different coatings.

Metal roofing

Metal tile is a popular roofing material, which is thin steel, aluminum or copper sheets coated with a protective layer.

Square or rectangular pipe outlet

If the pipe is made of brick and has a square or rectangular cross section, the materials included in the coated kit can be used to pass it through a metal roof. Since brick chimneys can have non-standard sizes, some of the coating sheets are removed or a larger hole is cut out before being removed.

For waterproofing the joint, special elastic tapes are used with an adhesive layer applied to one of the sides. One edge of the tape is glued to the base of the pipe, the other - to the roofing sheathing. From above, the edge is fixed with a metal bar, which is attached with heat-resistant dowels to the pipe wall. All joints are sealed with sealant.

To reduce the likelihood of water leaking along the chimney wall, you can make a groove under the bar - a strobe

An apron for a square or rectangular pipe can be made with your own hands. It is made from a smooth metal sheet of the same color as the main coating. The upper edge of the apron is tucked under a row of metal tiles located above so that water flowing from above does not fall under it. If the pipe is located close to the ridge, the edge of the apron can be tucked under the ridge or folded over to the other side. To protect the through hole from precipitation, a tie is installed under the apron.

The outlet of the chimney is best organized before laying the metal tile coating.

Conducting a round pipe

When a round chimney or a sandwich pipe is led through a metal roof, roof penetrations are most often used, connected to a cap through which the pipe is passed. A neat round hole is cut in the coating to fit the chimney, a universal glass or master flush is put on the pipe, the joints are sealed.

For joint sealing round pipe and roofs use special penetrations

Video: sealing the passage of a brick pipe through a metal roof

Roofing from corrugated board

Profiled sheet is one of the most common roofing materials. But a leak can also occur in it if the chimney outlet is not properly arranged. The chimney with this type of coating is best placed vertically. A hole in the roof is cut with a grinder, while it is necessary to ensure that the cut edge of the corrugated board is without notches.

Conducting a rectangular pipe

If it is necessary to organize a passage for a rectangular or square pipe, the apron can be made from galvanized sheet.

  1. 4 strips are cut out of metal, which will be placed in front, behind and on the sides of the pipe.
  2. A sheet of galvanized steel is laid from the lower edge of the chimney to the eaves. This element is called a tie and is subsequently covered with roofing material.
  3. The planks are tightly attached to the pipe, their lower part is fixed to the crate, and the upper part is put on the chimney.
  4. A groove is made in the wall of the pipe, into which the bent edge of the bar is inserted. First, the lower bar is installed, then both side and upper. Sheets are folded one under the other.
  5. Before laying the corrugated board, the passage of the chimney must be waterproofed. You can use normal waterproofing film, which is cut with an “envelope” and glued to the pipe, but it is better to use a self-adhesive waterproofing tape.

The upper junction bar to the pipe is filled with sealant

Round pipe outlet

When outputting a pipe of circular cross section through a corrugated board coating, a roll is used bituminous waterproofing or foil bitumen tape. A roof penetration is put on the chimney, which is glued to the crate and sealed with a heat-resistant sealant. If the passage is made of rubber, it can melt from the heating of the pipe, so a clamp with a heat-resistant gasket must be fixed under it.

If you use a roof passage made of heat-resistant rubber, you can avoid melting it.

Video: running a pipe through a corrugated roof

Ondulin roofing

Ondulin is also called "Euroslate". The peculiarity of such a coating is that it is combustible, and does not have great strength. Therefore, for the passage of the chimney, you will need to make a hole in the roof big size and fill it with a fire-resistant material that will prevent moisture from entering.

To waterproof the junction of the chimney and the roof, a metal roof cutting with an apron is installed, the edges of which are brought under the ondulin sheets or the Onduflash elastic tape is used. Such a coating requires an additional ventilation device.

In the ondulin roof, you will need to make a hole for the outlet of a larger diameter pipe and fill it with fire-resistant material

Video: sealing the chimney on the roof of ondulin

How to bring a pipe through a soft roof

Soft roofing is also a combustible material, so a gap of 13–25 mm must be left between the coating and the chimney. Pipe waterproofing is carried out in the same way as with other coatings, only instead of an elastic tape, a valley carpet is used or the coating itself is placed on the pipe - shingles or only.

When waterproofing the joint of the pipe and soft roof the cover itself can be used instead of the elastic band

Stages of work on the removal of the chimney through the roof

To lead the chimney through the finished roof, the following steps are necessary:

  1. The place of passage in the roof between the rafters and the transverse beam is selected.
  2. A box is mounted: rafters are constructed from the bars, parallel to the rafter legs, and beams. The cross section of the beams for the box is taken equal to the cross section of the rafter beams. The width of the sides of the box will be 0.5 m greater than the diameter of the pipe.
  3. A hole is cut in the roof slope. To do this, in the four corners of the box from the inside, at the junction of the rafters and beams, through holes are drilled. After that, the layers of the roofing cake are cut along the inner perimeter of the box and diagonally.

    After installing the flange, the required shape can be given with a hammer

Video: do-it-yourself chimney box

The output of the chimney pipe through the roof is a responsible matter, in which strict adherence to the installation technology is mandatory so that there is no danger of leakage and destruction of the pipe. Carrying out work on the removal of the pipe includes many nuances, taking into account the roofing, material and shape of the pipe, waterproofing methods. Therefore, you should study all the stages of work in advance and consult with a specialist.

Heating appliances - required element each residential building. They are designed to provide a comfortable room temperature for living in the cold seasons. In the regions of Russia, this period averages 6 months, in some places - up to 10 or more. Getting additional comfort is associated with a certain risk of fire.

For this reason, increased attention must be paid to chimneys that bring smoke and combustion products from heating devices outside the premises. This article will look at how to bring the chimney through the roof safely and according to all modern rules and regulations.

The chimney is used in devices where heat is generated by burning various fuels. This fuel is wood, coal, gas or other combustible substances. The removal of combustion products through the pipe through the roof is regulated by the requirements of SNiP 41-01-2003. Some points are considered partially obsolete, but most supervisory services rely on this document. Therefore, the requirements and standards contained in it are binding.

What can a bad installation lead to?

Often, the list of works of a master stove-maker or installer of a gas or electric heating boiler does not include work on arranging a chimney. It is understood that the passage of the chimney through the roof is laid at the construction stage, or the homeowner will mount the chimney on his own. The apparent simplicity of such work provokes the owners to refuse to use professional roofers. They do not think about what serious negative consequences a poor-quality outlet of the chimney to the roof can lead to. Frequently occurring problems:


Not only chimneys from stoves, fireplaces and other solid fuel devices are raised above the roof. Exhaust pipes from gas heaters, as well as ventilation pipes, are also taken out there. When installing them, exactly the same methods are used as for chimneys.

The height of the pipe and the place of its passage in the roof

The chimney on the roof can only be placed correctly if the pipe outlet through the roof is chosen correctly. This factor can affect the correct functioning of the heating system. To prevent errors during installation, it is necessary to be guided by the existing requirements against fire safety and building codes and regulations. The main points of arrangement:


The main problem with arranging a pipe through a roof lies in the fact that when smoke or combustion products pass through, the temperature of the structure rises, and this can lead to the ignition of the materials from which the elements of the roof or truss system are made.

Flexible passage for round chimney

Usually, in private residential construction, one has to deal with the arrangement of chimney and ventilation pipes of circular cross section. How can a chimney be installed through the roof elements, in order to also ensure the sealing of the passage? For this, a special design is used - an elastic passage element of the roof. This product is made of special durable silicone or rubber. The shape resembles a funnel with wide fields of round or square shape. These fields are called an apron. The elastic passage element, due to the flexibility of the material, can take any configuration. This allows it to be used on roofs with any angle of slope and any final coatings. The material from which it is made must withstand the highest possible low and high temperatures, as well as be resistant to the external environment. Elastic penetrations are available in various colors and configurations.

When choosing which penetration to purchase, you need to focus on the diameter of the chimney and the color of the roof finish. Universal products are produced, similar to a stepped pyramid, they are suitable for any pipe diameter. The size is adjusted with scissors, which cut the penetration to the required level.

Installation of an elastic apron on the roof is quite simple. To do this, it is necessary to attach it to the chimney passage, press it from above with a metal circle, in which holes for self-tapping screws are provided, apply fire-resistant sealant to the place of contact with the roof and screw it on with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

For roofs with extremely steep angles, it is necessary to use a special type of penetrations with a fixed angle of mounting the clamping flange.

Rigid metal spigot

For the arrangement of chimneys, you can use another type of pass-through products for pipes of a round configuration - a pass-through pipe made of metal. It is used in cases where it is necessary to equip the passage of the chimney pipe through the roof without relief. Such finished products made of galvanized or painted steel are made to a fixed angle of the roof slope.

To purchase, you need to measure this angle at your roof. The installation of such a product is carried out in the following order:


In some cases, it is recommended to use a different method. Its essence is that it is necessary to pre-make a chimney pipe in the passage box, cover it with a special insulating material, for example, basalt wool, and after that the whole structure is laid in the roof.

Arrangement of rectangular chimneys

The chimney of a stove or fireplace is usually made of brick and has a square or rectangular shape. In this case, to arrange the passage of the roof, it is necessary to use another method.

When the laying of the chimney pipe approaches the roof, it is necessary to cut a hole of the estimated size in it with a tolerance of about 6 cm. With the help of it, the pipe will be removed above the roof. Despite the fact that heat-resistant brick perfectly retains heat inside the chimney, this pipe must be lined with asbestos sheets from the outside. This measure will protect the rafters from exposure to high temperatures.

On the protruding part of the brick pipe metal profile the waterproofing is fixed on an aluminum substrate, and its lower edge is fixed to the roof with a sealant. Further, the ugly waterproofing of the chimney on the roof is covered with a special decorative apron. It consists of four parts and is mounted on the roof, making the transition aesthetic and protected from influences.

A well-arranged pipe outlet will not spoil appearance roofing, will not allow moisture penetration and is completely safe according to fire safety requirements. Finishing the chimney on the roof is carried out depending on the design of the roof and the desire of the homeowner.

Installing a chimney is a rather responsible and difficult job. It is necessary to think over all the stages of installation in advance and get advice from a specialist.

Sergey Novozhilov - roofing materials expert with 9 years of experience practical work in the field of engineering solutions in construction.

The correct passage of the chimney through the attic floor, truss system and roof is no less important than compliance with all other requirements when building the stove itself. The fire safety of the house, and therefore of all those living in it, as well as the efficiency of the heater, will depend on how reliably these nodes are equipped.

The passage of the chimney through a wooden floor must be especially reliable, since in this area the heated walls of the pipe are in close proximity to combustible materials. In order to secure the floor elements, various thermal insulation materials and special devices can be used - there is no shortage of them on the market today.

The performance of such work must be treated with the utmost responsibility. Therefore, in order to understand these issues, you should familiarize yourself with the current requirements. normative documents, consider the very process of passing the chimney through the ceiling in order to do everything strictly according to the rules established by the controlling organizations.

What do building codes and regulations (SNiP) say about this?

SNiP 41-01-2003 "Ventilation, air conditioning and heating" regulates the main aspects related to the arrangement of various autonomous heating systems. Since this publication is devoted to the analysis design features passing the chimney through the attic floor, special attention must be paid to section 6.6 - this is “Stove heating”, and its subsections.

In some cases, these existing rules become a real problem for owners of private houses when arranging their home heating system. Such difficulties arise due to the fact that some of the requirements for modern heating systems and materials used for thermal insulation are clearly outdated. However, despite the possible obvious contradictions, the controlling organizations rely on this guideline and require the implementation of established standards.

At the same time, it must be remembered that if the stove is installed in a newly built house, then it will be necessary to legalize its presence in the fire department, otherwise registering the property simply will not work. Such a permit is issued on the basis of an act drawn up by an employee of the controlling organization that accepts the building. If, during the inspection, serious violations of existing standards are found, then there is nowhere to go - you will have to correct the mistakes made. Therefore, it is best not to immediately deviate from the established standards.

Not everyone likes the dry language of regulatory documents, and therefore they are simply afraid to look into them. Let's try to state these rules for them in a few paragraphs:

  • Wall thickness brick chimney in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bits passage through ceilings, roofs or walls (partitions) should be greater than along the main height. This thickening is called cutting.

According to existing standards, the thickness of the groove is considered taking into account the thickness of the pipe itself. The masters often use the colloquial term “from smoke” in this regard. So, the standard size of the cut is:

- 500 mm, if the pipe borders on a building structure made of combustible material (which, of course, includes a wooden floor).

- 380 mm - for those cases when the materials of the building structure are protected from fire by a layer of plaster of at least 25 mm with steel mesh reinforcement, or a metal sheet with an asbestos lining under it with a thickness of at least 8 mm.

  • The height of the chimney cut must be at least 70 mm greater than the thickness of the ceiling. By the way, SNiP does not stipulate from which side these millimeters should “look out” - from below, on the ceiling, or in the attic. Among the masters, judging by the forums, there is also no unanimity. But, as a rule, customers are asked to make a flat ceiling in the room, so a 70-millimeter step can be located in the attic. However, if you read the forums again, you can find cases when fire inspectors demanded a 70-mm "side" both above and below. And it was not possible to convince them of the opposite.
  • It is undesirable to cut the chimney rigidly to the floor materials or to rely on any building structures. True, there is no categorical prohibition on this matter, but one should still adhere to such a recommendation that the deformation of one element that occurred for some reason does not entail the destruction of the other.
  • The space between the cutting and the building structure is filled with non-combustible materials. The list of materials is not specified, but in practice, those that can be classified as thermal insulators are usually used - these are expanded clay, vermiculite, mineral wool.
  • If the cutting of the pipe falls on the opening of a wall or partition and combustible materials, then its thickness cannot be less than the thickness of the partition itself. In this case, the cutting should be performed along the entire height of the wall.
  • When the pipe passes through the roofing, cutting is also often performed, which in this place is called "otter". In any case, the distance from the outer walls to any elements roof structure from combustible materials should be at least 130 mm for a brick pipe, and 250 mm for a ceramic pipe without thermal insulation (when using insulation with a heat transfer resistance of at least 0.3 m² × ºС / W - 130 mm). The section of the roof at the passageway must be made of non-combustible material only.
  • When building a furnace and its chimney, it is important to observe the distance to walls and partitions. This gap has its own name - retreat. The amount of retreat is also regulated by the requirements of SNiP:
Chimney wall thickness, mmRetreat typeDistance from outer surface walls of the furnace or chimney to a wall or partition made of combustible material, mm
- non-flammable surface- surface protected from fire
120
(ceramic fired brick)
open260 200
Closed320 260
65
(heat-resistant concrete)
open320 260
Closed500 380

The surface will be considered protected from fire if the requirements already mentioned above are met - plaster of the required thickness or asbestos-metal "pie". At the same time, the dimensions of the area on which such protection is made must be larger than the dimensions of the furnace or chimney by at least 150 mm in each direction.

These requirements are optional only for partitions made of materials with a fire resistance rating of REI 60 and higher (maintenance of load-bearing capacity, integrity and thermal insulation qualities with a 60-minute direct exposure to fire) and zero flame spread.

  • When installing metal furnaces factory-made, it is necessary to adhere to the recommendations that are given in the documentation from the manufacturer. If not, the general rules apply.
  • The distance between the furnace itself (its upper wall) and the ceiling is also important. The following regulations apply here:

A. If the furnace ceiling consists of three continuous brick rows, then this distance should not be less than:

for unprotected ceilings - 350 mm for periodic fires, and 1000 mm for long-burning stoves.

- for ceilings protected with a plaster layer or asbestos 10 mm + metal - 250 and 700 mm, respectively.

B. If the oven floor consists of only two continuous rows, then the distances to the ceiling indicated above should be increased by one and a half times.

IN. For metal stoves, the clearance between their upper surface and the ceiling of the room should be at least 800 mm if the ceiling has the above-mentioned thermal protection, and 1200 mm if it is not.

  • The penetration of metal chimneys through any floors or walls must be carried out through sleeves made of non-hot material.

The gaps around the chimney pipes must be sealed with non-combustible materials (class NG or, in extreme cases, G1), best of all - with the lowest possible coefficient of thermal conductivity. This will provide the necessary fire resistance for fences.

The wood used to mount the truss system and attic floor, belongs to the G3-G4 group in terms of combustibility. After being treated with flame retardants, it becomes more resistant to fire, but, despite this, it remains combustible. It is naive to rely on the "magical qualities" of the advertised impregnations, which allegedly completely makes the tree non-combustible. That is why it is necessary to adhere to the norms established by SNiP, correctly positioning the chimney and other sections of the furnace at the specified distances from the structural elements of the house.

Self-activity in these matters, unauthorized deviation from existing rules, simply admitted negligence can lead to tragic consequences, since overheating of the elements of the building adjacent to the furnace structure with big share probability will end in their ignition.

So, a poorly equipped chimney penetration through a wooden ceiling can easily lead to a fire. To avoid tragic consequences, it is necessary to properly insulate the cutting, ensuring the proper level of fire safety.

To figure out how to carry out these actions correctly, it is necessary, keeping in mind the recommendations of SNiP, to consider the whole process in stages.

Since the chimney can be metal or brick, it is necessary to separately consider the installation of both options.

Penetration for a metal chimney pipe

Special devices and materials for sinking a metal chimney

Box-shaped ceiling-through structures

The arrangement of the passage of a chimney metal pipe through the structure of a wooden floor can be carried out using a ready-made ceiling-through assembly, or made independently, but in compliance with the standard dimensions.

If purchased ready-made version such penetration, then its size is selected according to the diameter of the chimney pipe. The convenience of using the factory box is that its design already provides for all the dimensions established by SNiP, so you don’t have to rack your brains over this. It remains only to show an opening in the ceiling for penetration, and then strengthen its thermal protection of the surfaces.

You can make a passage-box yourself. It is made of different materials - it can be a steel sheet with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm, alone or in combination with minerite, asbestos sheet, with mineral basalt wool foiled on one or both sides. If the box is purchased or made of metal, then it will need to be thermally insulated with ordinary or foil mineral wool, vermiculite, expanded clay.

If it is decided to make such a penetration on its own, then the diameter of the hole in its central part should be approximately 0.5 mm larger than the outer diameter of the pipe. This is done in such a way that the metal pipe passes freely through the box, but at the same time, the gap between them would not be too large.

For the manufacture of penetrations, you can use the dimensions shown in the illustrations and presented in the table:

Letter designation of structural elements and size in mm
d - hole diameter L - side length of the decorative panel of the box G - the width of the sides of the box H - box height
205 580 370 310
215 580 370 310
255 580 450 310
285 580 450 310
  • If the passage box is made only of foil mineral wool 50 mm thick, it is best to cut the elements for it according to pre-made templates. The assembly of parts into a single structure is carried out using heat-resistant foil tape. Having chosen this option for cutting, you must not forget that you will also need to purchase or make one or two metal panels for it. One of them is attached to ceiling surface, flush with it, and the second (optional) closes the heat-insulating material from the side of the attic.

  • Another option for penetration can be a box made of a metal sheet, insulated with the same foil-clad mineral wool. This insulation is cut into strips with a width equal to the height of the resulting box and is laid along the walls on the end, with the foil side to the pipe. The space of the box free from the pipe must be densely filled with a thermal insulator.
  • The box can also be made of mineralite (fiber-reinforced concrete slabs) 10 mm thick. Structural elements are also cut out according to prepared templates, and then fastened together using metal corners. A smaller box made of a metal sheet 0.5 mm thick is installed and fixed in a casing made of this material.

Between the walls of the outer and inner boxes there should be a gap of 10 ÷ 15 mm wide, which is filled with basalt insulation, and the space around the pipe can be filled with vermiculite, expanded clay of fine or medium fraction, or the same mineral wool. The holes through which the pipe will pass must have the same diameter in both boxes. A metal plate can also be used to aesthetically design the penetration from the side of the living room, or the fiber cement board can be left open. After completion of the installation work, it will be easy to paint the slab facing the living room in the same color as the ceiling.

Video - Making and installing a home-made box-shaped penetration for the chimney of a bath stove

Heat-resistant materials for the manufacture of penetrations

A few minutes of attention deserve the characteristics of heat-resistant materials that are used to insulate the ceiling penetration. They differ in some of their qualities from conventional insulation made on the same basis.

  • Minerite is an absolutely non-combustible material, which is also called fiber cement boards in another way. It is often used for wall cladding in areas where stoves and chimneys are installed.

Minerite prices

This material is not only resistant to extremely high temperatures, but also moisture resistant, has good mechanical strength, does not contribute to the formation of mold and fungus colonies. Minerite is an environmentally friendly material, therefore, at elevated temperatures, it does not emit fumes harmful to human health.

For the manufacture of screens installed in the cutting and on the walls around furnaces and chimneys, "minerite LV" panels are used. In addition, such panels are also suitable for the construction of fire-resistant partitions.

  • Non-combustible slabs made of basalt wool and covered with aluminum foil are used for fire protection of walls and passages around chimneys.

This material is made from environmentally friendly components and has a high resistance to aggressive biological and chemical effects. According to its thermal insulation data, mineral wool, of course, is many times superior to mineralite, but inferior to it in mechanical strength and durability.

High-quality basalt slabs do not accumulate moisture, and they do not create a favorable environment for the settlement of rodents and insects, the appearance of microflora colonies. This type of insulation belongs to the flammability group G1. (Yes, and this is only due to the adhesive layer that holds the foil coating, since in " pure form» basalt insulation can be attributed to completely non-combustible materials). Basalt slabs different manufacturers may slightly differ in the upper limit of the temperature operating range. But in any case, it ranges from +750 to 1100 degrees, which should be more than enough for the chimney.

Prices for basalt slabs

basalt slabs

Installation of a penetration for a metal pipe

Before installing the penetration into the window cut out for it in the attic floor, it must be prepared, further strengthened, if necessary, and insulated from high temperatures.

  • The first step is to additionally monitor the state of the opening and the surrounding parts of the ceiling structure. This is done in order to make sure that the box in it will be securely fastened.

The box penetration must be firmly fixed to the ceiling structure. It, of course, is positioned so that it is between the floor beams (it is clear that these issues regarding the placement of the furnace in the room are always thought out in advance). Beams can become a reliable basis for fastening the penetration, located on the sides of it.

However, it often happens that the floor beams are too far apart and therefore the "pie" of the floor in the area of ​​​​the pipe passage does not have the necessary rigidity, and it will need to be strengthened. Another option, exactly the opposite, is that the too frequent step of the installed beams does not leave enough free space to accommodate the box penetration.

In any of these cases, it is possible, after removing the desired section of the coating, to mount the frame, in accordance with the dimensions of the box, using a wooden beam. The crossbars of this frame are rigidly cut into the floor beams. If necessary, with too widely spaced beams, additional longitudinal support bars can be used in the frame. An example of creating such a frame is shown in the illustration.

Such a check and strengthening (refinement) of the frame will be necessary if it is mounted in an already built house. However, as a rule, the installation of stoves and, therefore, the installation of chimneys, are planned in advance. And in the process of installing floor beams during the construction of a building, such a frame is provided in advance for the subsequent installation of box-shaped penetration.

  • Further, all wooden details ceiling structure, located along the perimeter of the cut-out window for penetration, must be additionally treated with a special impregnation. The flame retardants included in the composition will increase fire performance node being created. Continue to further operations only after complete drying of the treated surfaces.

  • The next step is to install a penetration box into the cut-out opening from the side of the room. The edges of its bottom part are securely screwed with self-tapping screws on the ceiling surface.

But this operation should be carried out only after careful control of the location of the round hole for the chimney relative to the heater. It is unacceptable that even a slight deviation causes unevenness, a "break" of the installed pipe. This will create unnecessary stress in its walls, which may well lead to insufficient sealing in the joints.

Precise alignment of the box passage is best done on a plumb line to ensure that the axis of the pipe being installed is vertical.

  • Further, the lower part of the chimney pipe is assembled, starting from the outlet pipe of the furnace (boiler).

It is very important - no matter the distance from the stove to the ceiling, and no matter what accessories are used, never, under any circumstances, the connection of two elements (pipes) of the chimney should not fall on the ceiling. Moreover, the minimum distance from such a connecting node to the floor surface (whether from below, indoors, or from above, from the side of the attic) must be at least 300 mm.

The requirements for the correct location of the junctions of individual pipes are important, of course, from the standpoint of providing visual control. But the main predetermining factor of such a considerable (300 mm) offset from the ceiling is the continuing possibility of a breakthrough of hot gases in these, to be honest, remaining the most vulnerable places of the prefabricated metal chimney.

  • The next stage of work can be carried out from the side of the attic or living space, depending on how it is more convenient to mount the next section of the pipe. If the work is carried out from the side of the attic, then the next part of the chimney pipe is passed through the hole and fixed on the lower, already mounted section.

  • When the pipe is led into the attic, you can proceed to filling the penetration box with heat-insulating material. If one of the bulk thermal insulation materials is selected, and small gaps remain between the pipe and the border of the round hole, they can be clogged with basalt wool or plastic clay, and then the insulation is poured from above.

From bulk heat-insulating materials, it is best to choose expanded clay or vermiculite. Ordinary sand is used for backfilling only as a last resort, since it has a too fine fraction, a large weight and an excessively high thermal conductivity for such a function. Expanded perlite sand is not particularly convenient to use in such conditions due to its excessively high "volatility".

The easiest way to fill the box with heat-resistant basalt wool, as it has the lowest thermal conductivity. When using a mineral wool mat, the box from the attic side should not be sealed thoroughly in order to have free access to the pipe throughout its entire length. If the pipe goes to the second floor, then the hole in its floor with insulation material around the chimney can be closed with a metal sheet, screwing it to the floor.

The selection of photographs below demonstrates the installation of a home-made box penetration made of dense slabs of foil basalt insulation.

- The first two fragments: this is a finished self-made penetration from different angles.

- The third fragment: a window was cut out in the ceiling for the installation of penetrations. Please note: to ensure maximum safety, the master filled the gap between the ceiling covering and the attic floor with mineral wool.

- Fourth photo: The penetration box is inserted into the prepared opening and fixed from below.

- Fifth fragment: After the installation of the pipe section leading to the attic, the penetration is closed from below with a metal panel. It is securely fixed on the ceiling with self-tapping screws, completely covers the edges of the window of the passage unit, holds the heat-insulating box well in the ceiling and provides mechanical protection not very durable mineral wool panel.

- Sixth photo: Continuation of the installation of the chimney. The gap between the pipe and the box will be tightly filled with mineral wool. Since the attic this case- "inhabited", the passage node will be covered with a decorative metal plate.

And in the video below, the master managed without creating a box structure at all.

Video: fire fluffing of a chimney pipe in a passage through a wooden floor

The passage of a brick pipe through the ceiling

A masonry chimney is usually designed to protect surrounding combustible materials from overheating. The section of the pipe, which is laid out when it passes through the ceiling, is already a cut in itself and is called "fluff".

This chimney design is traditional, long-tested, and most often chosen by stove-makers.

  • "Fluffing" begins under the very ceiling in the living room (three to four rows of bricks before it) passes through the entire thickness of the attic floor. Sometimes the fluff is raised to the clean floor of the attic, in other cases it is made flush with the subfloor. Both options can cause nitpicking of the inspectors - we recall the notorious “70 millimeters” already discussed above.

This structural element plays the role of the necessary thickening of the pipe walls, which protects the combustible materials of the ceiling from overheating.

In fact, the design of the “fluff” is directly affected by precisely the requirements of the SNiP that were considered in the first section of the publication. In order not to repeat yourself, you can give a diagram that clearly shows what dimensions and where must be observed:

Can I lay out a brick chimney myself?

The work, at first glance, is simple, however, a lot depends on its quality, up to the health and life of the inhabitants of the house. You can read detailed information about by following the recommended link - it will be easier to figure out whether it is worth taking this event on yourself, or it is better to invite specialists.

  • Another option for arranging the penetration of a brick pipe through the ceiling is carried out in almost the same way as a metal pipe. In this case, of course, the chimney along its entire height has the same cross-sectional size, without increasing the thickness of the walls. However, all linear parameters established by SNiP are respected.

The hole in the ceiling can be covered with a metal sheet or fiber cement board. In the middle of the thermal insulation panel, a window is marked, through which the chimney will pass. The length and width of this opening should exceed the similar parameters of the pipe by literally 3 ÷ 5 mm.

When laying the chimney, about three to four rows from the ceiling, a sheet with a prepared opening is put on it, and then the laying is carried out further to the height of the attic's clean floor.

The next step, the sheet put on the pipe is lifted, pressed and fixed to the ceiling in a way convenient in a particular case - with self-tapping screws or dowels.

Further, work is carried out from the side of the attic or the second floor. Strips of basalt wool, pieces of asbestos or fiber cement slabs are laid along the walls of the opening cut out for penetration. This "frame" should cover the entire thickness of the attic floor. If necessary, the material can be fixed on the floor beams.

Thanks to these operations, a kind of box is created around the neck of the pipe, which will be filled with heat-resistant material. As it can be used basalt wool, which densely fill the entire volume. If cotton wool with a foil layer is used, then it is turned towards the walls of the furnace.

It is quite possible to perform such thermal insulation of the pipe with expanded clay or vermiculite, but before backfilling, it is imperative to close up the gaps remaining between the pipe and the edges of the opening, especially if fine fraction material is used.

Of course, you can do exactly the same as with a metal pipe by putting a ready-made penetration made of steel sheet on a brick chimney. This option will probably be more reliable and convenient both in terms of its installation and reliable fixation, and when filling the box with thermal insulation material. True, such a box will cost much more. Does it make sense - decide for yourself.

After filling the penetration with insulation, it is also covered from above with a metal or fiber cement sheet.

At this point, the work on arranging the safe passage of the chimney through the ceiling can be considered completed.

After reviewing the details of the arrangement of this area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe chimney, we can come to the following conclusion:

That there are no particularly complex actions that are subject only to highly qualified narrow specialists in this process. The main thing is to scrupulously follow the requirements established by SNiP, withstanding all required dimensions and following the recommendations. If everything is done according to the rules, then you can not only ensure the safe operation of the heater, but also avoid completely unnecessary problems with regulatory authorities.


Evgeny AfanasievChief Editor

Publication author 28.10.2016

A private house's own heating system usually requires the construction of a chimney. The passage of the chimney through the roof must be organized in accordance with current regulations in order to ensure the safe operation of the heating system and not impair the functionality of the roof structure.

The main difficulties of installing a chimney

The chimney is used to discharge the products of combustion of various types of fuel (gas, coal, firewood, oil products, etc.). Its laying through the roof of the house should be carried out in accordance with the requirements of SNiP 41-01-2003, which are partially outdated. However, this document is guided by the supervisory authorities, therefore, it is necessary to follow the standards specified in it.

A chimney outlet through the roof may be required in the following cases:

  • when building a new house;
  • in the process of reconstruction of the roofing system in the presence of a heating unit;
  • when installing an autonomous source of heat supply in an already operated building.

If the construction of a building or the reconstruction of the roof allows you to design a chimney outlet taking into account all the requirements, then installing a chimney through a finished roof will create many problems. Usually this situation arises when the owners of the house want to install a fireplace or stove in an already finished building. If we are talking about an automatic boiler, it is recommended to create a separate extension for the boiler room, or to lead the chimney through the wall of the building.

The main difficulty in installing a chimney is that roofing cake, through which the pipe passes, is largely composed of materials not designed for close contact with very hot objects. The composition of the roofing pie includes:

  • roofing;
  • crate;
  • counterlattice;
  • waterproofing;
  • rafters;
  • insulation;
  • vapor barrier layer;
  • inner lining.

Wood, bituminous and polymeric materials are sensitive to high temperatures, therefore, according to SNiP, the clearance between the brick, concrete or ceramic chimney pipe in insulation and the elements of the roofing pie must be at least 130 mm. If ceramic pipe not provided with insulation, the clearance must be at least 250 mm. It should also be noted that at the point of passage through the roof, the pipe must have a special thickening - a retreat. Accordingly, in the roofing cake, it is required to make a hole of considerable size. The gap between the pipe and the roof after the installation of the flue must somehow be reliably thermally and waterproofed.

Negative consequences

A through hole in the roofing pie significantly reduces its performance and durability, because:

  • violation of the integrity of the waterproofing and vapor barrier layers leads to wetting of the insulation, while the thermal insulation characteristics of cotton materials deteriorate significantly;
  • due to the rupture of the thermal insulation layer increase heat loss Houses;
  • in the under-roof space, air exchange may be disturbed, which provokes the accumulation of moisture and further decay of the wooden elements of the roof structure;
  • the resulting gap not only contributes to the penetration of rainwater into the building, but also the formation of snow pockets in winter;
  • if in the process of making the hole is broken rafter system, then this significantly affects the strength of the roof.

To avoid problems, the passage of the chimney through the roof should be equipped by building its own rafter system (box) around it or by installing a standard modular chimney.

Choosing a location for the chimney

When deciding how to run the chimney through the roof, it is important to correctly determine the location of its installation. It is not recommended to run chimneys in valleys, since it is very difficult to create reliable waterproofing in these places. In winter, snow actively accumulates here, which can cause damage to the junction of the flue to the roofing and leaks. In addition, the construction of a pipe truss box at the junction of the roof slopes is very difficult.

It is not necessary to remove the chimney in the immediate vicinity of the roof windows, as carbon monoxide or smoke can be carried by a gust of wind through open window in a living attic.

The optimal location for the chimney is the area near the ridge. You can mount the chimney truss box with some indentation from the ridge, or ridge beam sawn, and special supports are installed under its ends.

The height of the chimney pipe above the roof depends on its location. The lower the roof slope a pipe is installed, the more it should rise relative to the roof surface. SNiP "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning" contains information on the regulation of this parameter. At houses with flat roof the height of the chimney must be 500 mm. The parameters for pitched roofs vary: the height of the pipe installed within 1.5 meters from the ridge is 500 mm, if the chimney is installed at a distance of 1.5 - 3 meters from the ridge, then it should be flush with the ridge. For long distances the height of the pipe is calculated as follows: its upper edge should be located 10 ° below the horizontal plane passing along the ridge.

According to SNiP, if a house with stove heating is attached (has a common wall) to a higher building, the chimney must be brought out of the roof of a tall building, regardless of its height and number of storeys.

When choosing a place for a chimney, it is recommended to take into account the angle of inclination of the roof slope and the climatic features of the region. A chimney located low on a slope can be destroyed when snow avalanches descend from the roof. If there is such a danger, it is advisable to mount separate snow retainers upstream of the chimney upstream of the chimney. In addition, the closer to the edge of the roof the chimney is located, the greater the likelihood of the formation of snow pockets behind it. Thus, installing the chimney closer to the ridge avoids a number of problems.

Chimney Features

For the manufacture of a chimney pipe can be used:

  • metal pipe;
  • asbestos-cement pipe;
  • refractory brick.

For each type of pipe, a special system of passage through the roof is carried out; different kinds waterproofing, which is due to current building regulations. In addition, it is important to take into account the type of fuel used, as there is a difference in the combustion temperature of fuels of different types.

Before developing a project on how to bring the chimney through the roof, the homeowner should decide on the type of fuel used. In accordance with SNiP, it is forbidden to install a metal chimney for stoves that are fired with wood, peat, coal. In addition, the chimneys of such furnaces must be equipped with spark arresters made of metal mesh.

Experts recommend that chimneys be rectangular or square section- when installing them, you can use ready-made abutment clamps that protect the junction of the roof with the pipe. Planks can be selected according to the roofing material used.

Chimney box

To properly bring the chimney through the roofing pie, you should equip your own truss system around the pipe. It must be separated from the chimney at a distance specified in SNiP. The design consists of lateral rafter legs and horizontal transverse beams from below and above, which are made of a bar of the same section as the rafters.

To insulate the structure, it is necessary to use non-combustible thermal insulation materials such as glass wool or stone wool- it is stuffed between the pipe and the wooden structural elements.

When passing the chimney through the roofing pie of the exploited roof, the vapor and waterproofing is cut crosswise, like an envelope, the edges should be tucked up and attached with nails or brackets to the rafter system.

Waterproofing the chimney on the roof requires special attention. When installing a duct for a pitched roof chimney, fastening the vapor barrier and waterproofing membrane are carried out as follows: the edges of the films are tucked up and tightly fixed with brackets to the box, in addition, the attachment points should be additionally sealed with a sealing tape or some other adhesive material. WITH outside on top of the roofing, protective elements are mounted that do not allow moisture to pass into the joints of the box with the roofing pie.

It is important to consider that the installation of the box can adversely affect the air exchange in the under-roof space. To avoid deterioration of moisture removal, additional ventilation systems can be installed, for example, ventilation tiles, roof aeration grilles, etc.

If the width of the chimney exceeds 800 mm (perpendicular to the rafters, according to the outer dimension), then a slope should be performed higher up the slope.

Razuklonka is a small private roof that drains water and snow from the pipe. Its installation is quite complicated, since all layers of insulation are part of the ramp, in addition, it should be qualitatively combined with the main roof using curly elements. To avoid mounting a slope, it is worth making a smaller pipe.

Using ready-made kits

Standard modular chimneys ("sandwich") can greatly simplify the process of passing the pipe through the roof. Used to make structures wide range materials, including:

The choice of a modular chimney depends on the fuel used, as they differ significantly in their technical characteristics. The advantage of such systems is the ability to install the pipe not at a right angle. This is especially true when installing a chimney in an existing building and allows you to choose almost any place for installing a fireplace, stove or automatic boiler.

A modular chimney passes directly through the roof, consisting of such parts as:

  • deflector (a device that enhances draft in the chimney by using a stream of hot air);
  • clamp for stretch marks (allows you to additionally fix a high pipe on the roof);
  • skirt (an element that protects the exit point of the pipe through the roof);
  • roof passage (element with a fixed apron, which is directly mounted in the roofing pie).

Modular chimneys have an attractive appearance.

Steel chimneys can be installed if the temperature of the exhaust gases is not more than 500 °C. Prohibited for installation on coal-fired stoves. For asbestos-cement pipes, this parameter is 300 degrees; for coal-fired ovens, such chimneys are also unsuitable.

If the chimney is made of concrete or brick, or a prefabricated passage is installed, the structure should not be rigidly attached to the roof system. Under the influence of external factors, the roof may be deformed, and these forces will be transferred to the chimney, which may lead to its destruction. When the chimney exits through the roof, all connections between the chimney and the roof are made using flexible elements.

The passage of the pipe through the roof: brick and round

One of the most important tasks in the construction of a bath is the correct conclusion and sealing of the chimney. Moreover, two problems need to be solved simultaneously: to ensure fire safety and insulation of the pipe joint from the flow of precipitation and condensate.

First of all, before solving the problem of water passage, it is necessary to determine the place where the pipe exits on the roof. The height of the pipe must comply with certain standards. The height depends on where the pipe will exit the pitched roof.

How much to raise the pipe above the ridge of the bath?

When installing the pipe, the rule applies: "The closer to the ridge, the higher the pipe must be raised."

Elevation of the chimney above the roof plane

  • If the distance from the center of the chimney to the roof ridge does not exceed 1500 mm, the chimney must be raised above the ridge not less than 500 mm;
  • With a distance from the center of the pipe to the ridge from 1500 to 3000 mm, the top of the pipe can be flush with the roof ridge;
  • At a distance of more than 3 meters, the top of the pipe should not be lower than a line drawn down from the ridge at an angle of 10 degrees to the horizon.

Where is it better to draw a pipe through the roof of the bath

The most convenient way to bring the pipe through the roof is to pass it through the ridge. In this case, the installation is easiest to perform, there are rarely snow pockets on the ridge, moreover, thanks to this arrangement, it is easy to carry out insulation work. But this method has a drawback: the rafter system should not have a ridge beam. The option with two beams is also suitable, which are attached in the area of ​​​​the chimney passage through the roof, but this is quite difficult to implement, and besides, it is not always possible.

The most unfortunate option for the location of the chimney is in the valley (the valley is a roof element made in a kind of tray, forming inner corner between the joints of pitched roof elements). Large masses of snow usually accumulate here, during rain water flows down from two slopes, so even with the most thorough insulation, the appearance of a leak is only a matter of time.

The most convenient way to bring the pipe through the roof is not far from the ridge

Based on this, the most acceptable option for pitched roofs- not far from the ridge, but below it:

  • easy enough to install
  • snow usually accumulates a little, which means that there is no need to install snow retention,
  • installation is not the most difficult,
  • due to the not very high height of the pipe, it does not need to be strengthened with stretch marks.

If it so happens that the chimney passes near the floor beams, or close to them (the minimum distance should be 13-25 cm, depending on the type of pipe), exits in the valley or close to the slope, an additional elbow can become a way out of the situation, with which you can bring the pipe to the right place.

If the bath roof is shed, the most reasonable solution would be to organize a pipe outlet through the roof near the top of the roof.

How to bring a pipe through a roofing pie

The roofs of the baths are, as a rule, solid insulation, which solves the problem of keeping warm. To ensure good heat and moisture protection properties of the roofing cake, it is necessary that the membranes and films of heat and moisture protection be continuous.

Removing the pipe through the roof, we necessarily violate their integrity. Moreover, according to fire safety standards, the distance from the pipe to combustible materials (which are vapor barrier and waterproofing films) must be at least 13-25 cm. How to get out of the situation? The best option is to separate the area where the pipe passes through the roof. To do this, additional rafter legs are fixed at the required distance from the pipe to the right and left, and transverse beams are installed from below and above at the same distance between these rafters. In this case, the pipe is in a separate box.

It often happens that "the pipe hits the rafters." In this case, the rafter leg is cut, additional rafter legs are installed, as well as transverse beams. Thus, a box is formed for the safe passage of the chimney through the roof.

The space between the pipe and roof structure filled with mineral wool. Only not with fiberglass - it does not tolerate high temperatures, but with basalt wool, which tolerates temperatures normally, and does not lose its heat-insulating properties when moisture enters.

At the same time, to ensure the tightness of the roofing pie within the box in which the pipe will be located, the materials are cut with an “envelope”, the edges are wrapped up to the beams and rafters, fixed with staples or nails (you can use counter-battens). To prevent the ingress of moisture, the places where the materials adhere to the wood must be additionally insulated with adhesive tapes or sealants.

The roofing cake at the passageway is cut with an “envelope” and fixed to the crate and rafters

But there is another option. If the temperature of the pipe in the area of ​​​​its passage through the roof does not exceed 50-60 ° C, you can simply glue the films of the roofing pie using all the same sealants and adhesive tapes. This is possible if, for example, a tank for heating water is installed on the pipe after leaving the furnace, or an additional heater, etc. is installed, and it is not a sandwich that goes to the roof.

In any case, to drain condensate into waterproofing layer you will need to attach a drainage groove. You can buy it (usually made of stainless steel), or make it yourself from a film of sufficient thickness. The groove is fixed around the pipe and its end is led out to the side. Thus, the condensate flows into this groove and is discharged onto the roof slope.

Passage through the roof depending on the roofing material and the type of chimney

When passing through the roof, the most important thing is to divert water flowing down the roof and the pipe itself. To protect against precipitation, protective aprons are used, the upper edge of which is led either under the sheet of roofing material located above, or under the ridge.

The apron is wound either under the sheet of roofing material located above or under the ridge

When leading the chimney through the roof, it must be fixed, but in such a way that it remains movable relative to the roof. Otherwise, due to thermal expansion / contraction, integrity will be violated and leaks will certainly appear. For example, a round pipe can be given direction with metal strips or corners.

When installing, check the verticality with a plumb line - this is important so that soot does not accumulate and there is good traction.

It is not necessary to fix the pipe when passing through the roof

The passage of a brick pipe through the roof

If the chimney is brick, rectangular or square, you can use the materials that come with the roofing material.

When passing a brick pipe through the roof, you can use the elements offered by the manufacturers of roofing material

If the roof is made of metal tiles, then the companies that produce it offer special tapes to seal the joint with the pipe, on one side of which an adhesive layer is applied. These elastic bands are complex composition containing aluminum and/or lead. With one edge, such a tape is glued with an adhesive side to the base of the chimney, with the second - to the roofing crate. The upper edge is additionally fixed with a metal bar, which is attached to the brick with heat-resistant dowels.

To reduce the likelihood of water leaking along the wall, you can make a recess under the bar - a strobe. Then the tape and the bar will be in the recess. To completely eliminate water infiltration, a heat-resistant sealant is applied to the joint.

In practice, they also seal the passage of the pipe through the roof of soft tiles or roofing. But in this case, instead of an elastic band, the tile itself or roofing is brought to the chimney.

When a pipe passes through a roof covered with soft tiles, its edges are wound onto a chimney or apron

You can make an apron for a square or rectangular pipe yourself. Roofers usually use tin for this, but aluminum sheet is fine. Four separate parts are made of metal - two side, front and rear.

An apron for a rectangular or square pipe is easy to make yourself

Strips of metal are bent so that one part of it goes onto the pipe, and the second is attached to the crate. In a brick chimney, in the upper part of the apron, an edge is made, which is inserted into a special strobe and coated with sealant. So that water, flowing down the apron, does not fall on the crate and the insulation cake, a sheet of large-width metal is placed under the front of the apron, along the edges of which the sides are curved. It goes under the roofing material and is called a "tie".

If a metal tile is used on the roof, then an apron is made from a smooth sheet of the same color, the upper edge of which is tucked under the row of roofing material located above, so that water flows onto the apron, and does not flow under it. If the pipe comes out close to the ridge, you can either fill it under the ridge itself, or bend it to the other side.

There is one important nuance: if the width of the brick chimney is more than 80 cm (its size is perpendicular to the rafters), you need to make a slope - a small gable roof located above. It wicks away sediment, reducing the chance of leakage. But such a width of chimneys in a bath is more an exception than a rule.

The passage of a round pipe through the roof

Modern round chimneys in baths are usually a sandwich pipe. Occasionally, asbestos pipes can be seen on the roofs of the baths, even more rarely - a mono-pipe without thermal insulation.

A simple single-wall, which is removed through the roof, carries a very high probability of a fire. Therefore, it is highly undesirable to use this option.

Modern round pipes are usually sandwich pipes

The video below shows a pipe sealing option when installed on a metal roof.

If metal tiles are used as a roofing material, then often manufacturers also offer roof passages. They are made from a sheet of the same color and are connected to a special cap through which the pipe passes.

The passage of the pipe through the roof of the metal tile

It is easy and simple to seal a round pipe on the roof if you use a factory penetration. It is an aluminum flange to which an elastic part made of rubber or silicone is attached.

Prefabricated penetrations - the easiest option for sealing the junction of the pipe and the roof

They come in different sizes and have different angles of inclination. You can choose for any diameter, type of roof and installation location. The penetration flange is covered with a composition similar to the composition of the corrugated part, there are grooves along the edges into which they are filled with sealant. One of the penetrations - "Master Flash" has 11 sizes, which cover diameters from 3 to 660 millimeters.

Penetration "Master Flash" MASTER FLASH

When installing such a penetration, part of the corrugation is cut off in accordance with desired diameter. Then it is put on the pipe. Rubber should go with effort to ensure a snug fit. Since the hole is less than the diameter of the pipe by about 20%, you have to pull hard. To make less effort, you can lubricate both with soapy water.

How to install factory penetration

After the corrugation is stretched to the right place, the flange is given the required shape - the material is plastic and you can use a hammer, but you need to work carefully.

Using a hammer, the flange is given the required shape.

Then the grooves located from the inside are filled with sealant, the edges are pressed against the roofing material and fixed (self-tapping screws are included). If the roofing material is not made of iron, self-tapping screws are not suitable. It is necessary to use either long self-tapping screws that will reach the crate, or dowels for floor slabs.

Split model

There are quite a few options for factory-made penetrations, there are detachable models. They are used when there are thickenings on the pipe or when it is necessary to mount on an already assembled chimney great height. In this version, the kit includes clamps that connect the parts of the through passage to each other. The rest of the installation is similar.

The video shows how to seal a normal slate roof penetration with the MASTER FLASH corner penetration.

Roof sealants

In order to seal the joints of different parts of the passage of the bath pipe through the roof, it is necessary to use not just a roof sealant, but a heat-resistant sealant. Preferably a neutral silicone heat-resistant sealant.

If Master Flash is installed on a metal roof (metal tile or metal profile), then it is necessary to use silicone sealant which does not contain vinegar (acetic-free sealant). This is necessary so that it does not enter into a chemical reaction with the metal and does not destroy it.

Roofing silicone sealant maintains its properties in the range from -50 ° C to +300 ° C, which is sufficient for all weather conditions and is quite suitable for sealing the chimney.

Roof sealant must be neutral and heat resistant

But you need to remember that the surface to be treated must be clean and dry. The full curing time is indicated on the packaging, usually 24 hours.

Fire safety precautions when using MASTER FLASH

MASTER FLASH made of silicone can withstand temperatures up to +300 degrees Celsius. This is quite enough to seal the sandwich pipe and, in many cases, the chimney from the asbestos-cement pipe.

The passage through the metal tile is sealed with Master Flash. Additionally used bitumen tape

As for the metal mono-pipe, in these cases it is possible to use MASTER FLASH in cases where the length of the chimney from the stove to the place of passage through the roof is at least 3 meters. As a rule, in this scenario, the temperatures will not be critical, but if not, then thermal insulation of the section that passes through the roofing pie is necessary.

Before reaching the roof, the pipe also passes through the ceiling. It is not difficult to make a ceiling cut correctly: there are factory feed-through nodes, but you can do without them.

How to bring a pipe through the roof of a bathhouse: brick, round, sandwich, how much to raise, passage nodes, master flash


The chimney of a sauna stove is very flammable. It is necessary to bring it out through the roof correctly: observe fire tolerances and not violate the tightness. How

Proper installation of a chimney on the roof

Most stove builders will surely agree that installing a chimney on a roof is one of the most difficult jobs. In addition to professionalism, the implementation of this process requires: the ability to correctly calculate and determine the place for installing the pipe, understanding how the roofing pie is arranged and knowledge of the basic requirements regulated by GOST and SNiP.

  • How to bring a chimney through the roof?

How to bring a brick chimney through the roof

In order for the work to be done efficiently, and not to have to redo your own mistakes, you need to follow a few simple recommendations:

  1. Planning - even with a “spontaneous” repair, there should still be a time when you should stop and think: where exactly the stove will be located, how the smoke exhaust system will be made. Where will the chimney go on the roof? The calculation will make it possible to calculate what height of the chimney above the roof will be sufficient to provide the necessary traction.

The passage of a metal chimney through the roof

Installation and installation of an iron chimney through the roof is a process that does not tolerate haste. The master needs to understand the features of each roof with which he will have to work. The essence of the work is reduced to two important principles:

  1. After installing the chimney, the integrity of the roof must not be lost, in other words, it is necessary to avoid a situation in which, after the first rain, the roof will leak. Often the water runs straight down the installed chimney. At the same time, the waterproofing of a chimney on a slate roof differs significantly from how the same operation is performed on a metal tile or soft bituminous roof.

  • Waterproofing a brick chimney - a special plate is used for it. For a slate roof, you will need to make a special pedestal around the chimney. A plate is laid on top of it on a sealant for sealing.

What is the height of the chimney from the ridge

The presence of draft in the stove, the rapid heating of the pipe, and the slow settling of soot on the back of the structure depend on the correctly calculated height of the chimney. These norms are strictly regulated by GOST and SNiP. In particular, the regulations specify the following requirements:

  • Installation of the chimney at a distance of up to 1.5 m from the ridge. The edge of the chimney must protrude above the top of the roof by at least 0.5 m.

How to fix a chimney on a roof

Bypassing the chimney and its waterproofing is carried out as follows:

How to cut a chimney on a roof

The connection of the pipe and the roof and its subsequent waterproofing can be done both independently and with the help of already finished structures. Each type of roofing material has its own way of performing these works.

  • Materials for waterproofing the joints of the roof with a chimney. For metal and soft roofing, it is best to use units and special compounds made by the same manufacturer. The joints on the slate roof can be treated with mastic, if necessary, you can fill them with concrete, and pour resin on top.

Roof chimney lining

Roof pipe finishing can be done with facing brick. The resulting design will resemble a classic chimney. The only requirement will be to make a base for a chimney apron on a roof made of metal or other material. It is best that such a design comes from the very bottom, in extreme cases, rests on the floor slab.

The device of the chimney on the roof, how to correctly bring the chimney through the roof


Work on the installation of a chimney on the roof can be a real test of the professionalism of the master. To carry out the installation of the chimney pipe, you can use both ready-made structures

How to make the passage of the chimney through the roof

Location of the chimney

According to experts, the most the best option a chimney device near the ridge is considered. Thanks to this, it will be possible to ensure minimal accumulation of snow around the chimney pipe and completely eliminate leakage in the junction area.

In addition, the height of the chimney in this case is small, which leads to a decrease in the influence of negative external factors on the design of the device. According to building regulations, the height of the chimney above the roof depends on the height of the chimney.

It is not recommended to organize the passage of the chimney pipe through the roof in such places:

  • next to the dormer windows, since even a weak wind will bring carbon monoxide into the attic;
  • at the junction of two slopes, where it is almost impossible to ensure a high-quality connection to the pipe.

Features of the output of the chimney through the roof

For the correct and high-quality output of the chimney, the basic requirements of SNiP must be observed. Of course, some parts of the document could be outdated, but it is in accordance with its provisions that the inspection services will check you.

When is the chimney going through the roof required? This may be required when building a new house or renovating the roof. In addition, laying a chimney through the roof is an indispensable part of installing an autonomous heating system.

When building a new home, you will know the type of roof you are using. It is possible that you will have to organize a complex outlet when you need to run a chimney through a roof covered with metal tiles or usually tiles. To date, the easiest way to ensure the passage of the chimney through a sandwich roof.

If we are talking about a conventional reconstruction, then there is already a chimney and a place previously reserved for it. Of course, when building a new house, it is much easier to arrange a chimney, since you can foresee the type of roof and the place where it is better to bring the chimney.

Chimney installation methods

Having decided to bring the chimney to the roof with your own hands, remember that this is a very responsible matter. The most important task is to create good traction. Otherwise, the performance of the chimney will depend entirely on atmospheric phenomena: sometimes the stove will work without problems, and sometimes the smoke will go into the room itself, and not into the chimney.

But the most dangerous thing is that a mistake can cause a fire.

In order to provide the device with a long period of use, the chimney must be well insulated.

Such a chimney will be less affected by changes in air temperature, and most likely will not be subject to condensation.

If the roof is flat, then a pipe with a height of 500 mm is sufficient. If your house has a ridge roof, then the length of the pipe will depend on the distance to the ridge:

  • if the distance is not more than 1.5 m, then you need to pick up a pipe with a height of +500 mm to the length of the ridge;
  • if the distance is up to 3 m, then the pipe must be at the same level;
  • for distances greater than 3 m, the length of the pipe must be determined on the basis of a sloping line, at an angle of 10 degrees.

Indoors, the chimney must be placed along walls or partitions. The device must be fastened in such a way that its horizontal sections do not exceed 1 m. In addition, the chimney must not come into contact with electrical wiring and pipelines. Proper installation starts from the boiler, so that each pipe enters the previous one. Joints are best fastened with a clamp. Ensuring the tightness of the joints is one of the most important tasks. For sealing, it is necessary to use a sealant that does not lose its properties even at too high a temperature.

Connection structures

Chimney pipes are made from various materials: refractory brick, metal or asbestos-cement pipe. The presence of a certain material requires a special design of the passage through the roof and a different insulation system. The type of fuel in the fireplace or stove also influences the choice of design. The fact is that each type of fuel has its own combustion temperature, so first you need to choose the right fuel.

If wood or coal is used in stoves, then it is forbidden to use metal chimneys. To provide better waterproofing it is recommended to make chimneys in a square or rectangular shape.

A truss system is installed around the chimney. Insulation materials should be selected depending on the type of mineral wool. If the chimney passage is provided on the operated roof, then it will be necessary to cut the waterproofing. To ensure maximum reliability, the film attachment points must be subjected to additional sealing, and a sealing tape must be mounted.

That's it, now you know how to install a chimney through the roof. The passage has been made, the pipe has been brought to the roof, now you need to make sure that the roofing material fits snugly against the surface and does not let water through. For this, a special design is used - an internal apron. The installation of such an apron involves the use of internal junction strips. Usually the slats can be bought together with other components.

The correct passage of the chimney through the roof can only be done if the rules and building codes are observed.


The correct passage of the chimney through the roof can only be done if the rules and building codes are observed. What do you need to know before starting construction?