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» Mini-house - a compact log house from a member of FORUMHOUSE. How to build an inexpensive turnkey log house? How a log house is made

Mini-house - a compact log house from a member of FORUMHOUSE. How to build an inexpensive turnkey log house? How a log house is made

A wooden house is an aesthetic, environmentally friendly and safe housing, which is characterized by high heat and sound insulation properties, durability and reliability. Many people are interested in whether it is possible to assemble and install a log house with their own hands. It is possible to do this, but it is difficult. When installing, it is important to take into account a lot of factors, including the quality of the log, calculations of lumber and layout of the house, installation features, etc.

Please note that low quality materials and errors in assembly will reduce the performance properties and service life of the house, lead to the appearance of rot and mold in the structure, warping of the walls and many other, no less serious, problems. But if you decide to self-construction country house or baths, this article will tell you how to make a log house.

Design and selection of materials

Assembling a log house with your own hands begins with designing a house taking into account the features land plot, future engineering systems and room design. Layout log house it can be rectangular or square, as well as shaped in the form of a semicircle, hexagon, etc. Of course, the construction of the first option will be much easier.

After creating the project and calculating the estimate, lumber is carefully selected. Rounded logs - best option for those who want to assemble a log house and build a house themselves.

Such logs are characterized by smooth and Smooth surface, identical sizes and diameters. This will allow installation to be carried out quickly and easily. In addition, logs tightly adjacent to each other will provide good thermal insulation. Due to the aesthetics and naturalness of materials, a house made of round timber will fit harmoniously into environment. Wooden building will look elegant and original. Read more about the advantages of a log house.

To get a reliable and durable home, you need to use only high-quality logs. It is desirable that the lumber be from forested regions and undergo special processing. At the MariSrub company, timber harvesting takes place in Kirov region, Republics of Mari El and Komi. These regions are famous for their good, large and moisture-resistant wood.

Raw materials and logs undergo careful selection and processing in the company’s own workshop. The wood is impregnated and processed protective equipment from the negative effects of moisture and insects. Such materials will last longer and preserve original appearance and properties.

Choose logs harvested from winter forest. Since such wood is stronger and more resistant to moisture. The presence of knots of small diameter and small natural defects is allowed on lumber. The trunks of quality materials are characterized by yellow or dark yellow color. These must be unspun logs of the same diameter and the same wood species. There should be no mechanical damage, rot or wormholes on the surface.

How to bandage a log house

After the materials have been selected and the foundation for the wooden house has been installed, the assembly of the log house begins. There are two main types of lashing or tying of logs. This is “in the cup” and “in the paw”. Both methods characterize the stability and strength of the structure of the future house, and they differ in the creation of grooves.

Cutting “into a bowl” or “into an oblo” is a traditional Russian method of assembling a log house. He assumes that the corners of the structure are connected to the release of the ends two times the diameter of the log. Because of this, lumber costs increase. The construction of such a house will cost more, but the warmth inside will remain for a long time. In addition, the corners of the building will not be subjected to negative impact wind and precipitation.

The “paw” method assumes that the logs are laid along the bracket, aligned along the outer edge and the excess is trimmed off from the inside. This is a colder room, so for insulation the ends are covered with boards. This is also necessary in order to protect the sawn wood from rotting. Please note that the log house needs to be hewn inside.

Tying logs “in the paw” has a more modern and aesthetic appearance and less wood wasted. But to create a warm and durable home, a lot of additional work will be required. Therefore, such cutting will become a labor-intensive process.

Loghouse installation technology

  • Waterproofing is laid on the horizontal surface of the poured foundation. Roofing material is suitable as a material. For laying, the foundation is lubricated when heated and roofing felt sheets are placed on top. After drying, make another layer;
  • On waterproofing layer they steal boards at least 5 centimeters thick, and lay a layer of tow or jute on top of the boards. This will enhance the thermal insulation properties, because up to 40% of the heat escapes through the floor and foundation!;
  • The frame is installed on the insulation layer. As a rule, production logs are numbered. This wall kit is easy to assemble according to the attached diagram;
  • Lay the crowns strictly level, row by row, and fasten them with dowels. Make sure the logs lie flat!;
  • A layer of insulation, also in the form of tow or jute, is placed on each laid crown. The insulation is secured using a construction stapler;
  • In addition to bandaging at the corners, the logs are connected every meter of length using spikes. Additional fastening will make the structure stable.

The final stage

After assembly, the log house is left for 0.5-1.5 years for shrinkage, and it is better to cover the structure with plastic film for waterproofing. During this period, you can sew up the floors and install rafters for the future roof. The floors are sewn up using boards with a thickness of 60 mm, which are laid on beams. The boards are connected using tenons. The ceiling can be laid in the same way.

After installing the roof, finishing work begins. First of all, this is insulation of the floor, ceiling and walls. Don’t forget about engineering systems, including electricity and plumbing, ventilation and sewerage. These communications must be carried out before interior finishing begins. Moreover, the location and installation of these systems are calculated at the stage of designing the house!

Installation of a log house and construction of a wooden house with your own hands is complex and labor-intensive process which requires knowledge and skills. Incorrect sequence and technology of work, poor quality materials and lack of experience will lead to serious problems. Therefore, it is better to entrust the work to professionals!

The masters of the MariSrub company will build a turnkey wooden house, cottage or bathhouse! We offer services for creating a project for the house of your dreams, assembling and installing a log frame, installing a foundation and roof, arranging communications and finishing buildings. The company has its own workshop for the production of rounded and chopped logs. Independent production is a guarantee of careful quality control and low prices!

Despite the emergence of new building materials, Lately there is an increasing trend towards building housing from environmentally friendly, natural materials. Returning to the times of our grandfathers and great-grandfathers, today many people want to build a log house with their own hands. This way you can save a lot of money, and most importantly, you can personally ensure and control the quality of construction. But before you get started, you should study the theory. Information on how to make a log house yourself will help you complete the job efficiently.

Basic information about the design of a log house

A log house is a structure consisting of logs laid horizontally to form walls. Each row of logs is called a crown, and the lowest one is a frame crown. A log house consisting of only four external walls is called a four-wall (the logs are connected in the corners), and if there is one internal partition, it is called a five-wall (in addition to the corner ones, there are also T-shaped connections).

The structure of the log house consists of walls consisting of logs laid horizontally. Coniferous and deciduous wood is used to make logs. It is preferable that the trees be freshly cut, and in winter time: This type of wood contains less moisture. Of the coniferous species, pine is better suited: logs made from it last longer and emit less resin.

Corner dressings of external walls are performed both with and without a remainder: in the first case, the edges of the logs protrude beyond the walls, and in the second - not. Bandaging is carried out using the “into the paw”, “into the bowl”, “into the head” and a simpler method – “into the end tongue”.

Preparatory work

Assembling a log house with your own hands begins with selecting logs required diameter. In areas with cold winters, the outer walls of the log house are built from logs with a diameter of at least 26 cm. For interior walls and for external ones, built for areas with a warm climate, logs with a diameter of 22... 24 cm will be sufficient. Material with excessive curvature, with rot, with traces of insect damage is not suitable for use. After the bark has been removed, the tree trunks must be cut so that the length of the blanks is 70... 100 cm longer than the length of the walls. Short logs are spliced ​​using the tongue-and-groove method, but the first crown must be solid.

For the lower crown, the highest quality logs are selected, preferably from hardwood. In the following, you need to select a semicircular groove along the entire length. On the side facing the inside of the house, the logs are hewn through. Intended for internal walls (partitions) are pressed through on both sides.

Beginning of the log house assembly

The log houses of houses are assembled with their own hands after the foundation is ready. A board impregnated with bitumen is laid on top of the base, built of brick or monolithic concrete. Its width should be about 150 mm, thickness - 50 mm. The trim crown is trimmed from below and laid on the board, and then, after adjustment, the rest of the logs are placed. In this case, you need to orient the butts so that in neighboring crowns they are on opposite sides.

During assembly, it is necessary to control the verticality of the corners and the horizontality of each crown.

The crowns are connected to each other using dowels (pins) in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the dowels should be no more than 2 m. In partitions, fastening should be done at least twice and at a distance of 150... 200 mm from the edge. Internal partition with outer wall connected using a vertical ridge that widens towards the end. To do this, they cut into the outer walls special form grooves.

In accordance with the project, openings are left for doors and windows. Another method involves cutting out openings after assembling the walls (after the house has settled). The latter method is preferable: it ensures a uniform load on the base and prevents the structure from skewing. In both cases, the opening is made in such a way that the ends end in a vertical ridge (it is not needed in the upper and lower parts). Between the overlapping crown and top part Window and door frames should be left with a gap of 4...5 cm for shrinkage.

The final stage of the log house assembly

After the walls are erected, they are caulked with flax, tow, moss, felt or hemp. There are also sealants made on the basis of natural rubber and artificial materials. The caulking material is compacted into the grooves so that there are no gaps left. To do this, use a special tool - a caulk and a hammer. This work begins with lower crowns along the entire perimeter: processing one wall can lead to distortion of the structure. First, the outer walls are caulked, after which they move inside.

Wood should be treated with antiseptic material and fire retardants: the latter is mandatory in those places where it is planned to install a stove, fireplace, as well as where the chimney will pass. This measure allows you to significantly increase the service life of the log house.

After completing the assembly of the log house, it is covered waterproofing material and leave it for at least six months: this is necessary for the house to shrink. Then they install the roof and begin interior finishing.

Interior decoration of a wooden house

The walls of a wooden house (log house), if the wood used is of high quality, without defects, does not require special finishing: it is enough to get rid of the roughness and open it with varnish. It can be either colorless or tinted. If the quality of the wall surface is not satisfactory or something else is needed stylistic decision, can be used wooden lining or drywall. In this case, you must first install the electrical wiring: from the point of view of fire safety, a cable with copper conductors, laid in a corrugated metal pipe, is used for this.

The walls of the log house breathe well, so you should not use plastic and insulating materials such as polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam. If insulation is necessary, mineral wool is used. For flooring, boards with a thickness of at least 40 mm are used: they fit tightly to each other. Right assembled log house will last for several decades.

Natural wood– environmentally friendly, durable, inexpensive, aesthetic material. Logs have been used for construction for a very long time and do not lose their popularity today. Today, when people make a choice in favor of natural and environmentally friendly products, log houses are becoming especially relevant.

Construction wooden houses A huge number of companies are engaged in turnkey work. Most often, they are also involved in harvesting logs. The final price of the finished home will depend not only on the size of the house, but also on the quality of the log, its diameter and production method.

Building a house with your own hands is half the price. In this article we will look step by step at how you can build a log house yourself.

Peculiarities

Wood has the properties of releasing moisture. Living in such houses is much more pleasant than in stone ones: warm in winter and cool in summer. Wooden structure lighter than concrete or brick, therefore, the foundation will cost less.

Compared to timber, a house made from logs will be much more expensive and will take more time to complete the construction process, but the unique flavor and high performance characteristics easily compensate for these shortcomings.

One of important points– this is the preservation of the structure of wood in the interior. The interior design of a wooden house made of logs can be decorated in rustic style like a hut with a Russian stove or, for example, Provence.

Despite the emergence of new technologies in construction field, log houses continue to be built using traditional methods. The logs are laid in a horizontal structure forming walls. Everyone is called a crown set row, and the lowest one is a frame crown. A log house that consists of 4 walls is called a four-wall structure, where the logs are tied together in the corners. If there is an internal partition - a five-walled one.

Advantages and disadvantages

A log house has a number of advantages. Construction industry professionals and owners log houses note the following advantages:

  • Environmental friendliness of the material. Such houses are built from natural wood, which allows preserving the natural qualities of the material. Such a home will always retain a pleasant woody aroma and a cozy atmosphere.
  • The most important thing people love about wood is its excellent thermal insulation properties.. For example, housing made of 20-centimeter logs is much better thermally insulated than similar housing made of brick. Therefore, by building a log house, you will save on heating.
  • Weight wooden house will allow you to lay any type of foundation.

  • Structure wood allows the house to “breathe”. It is comfortable to be in such a house.
  • From a material point of view wood is an affordable building material. Building a bare box log house will cost you a small amount of money that you would never have bet on brick house. Also, due to the cheap foundation and the lack of decorative treatment of the walls, a house made of wood ends up being much cheaper.
  • Wood has a natural feel. Nice appearance allows you not to finish it additionally either outside or inside.

  • Wood has high strength and load resistance, which allows you to build a house on several floors.
  • Possibility of assembly and disassembly if necessary, allows you to move the house to a new location.
  • The wooden house project is simple design drawing, which will be understandable to anyone reading.

In addition to the advantages, such buildings also have disadvantages:

  • susceptible to rotting over time;
  • complete shrinkage of the log house occurs after three years, although you can move in six months after construction is completed;
  • Although special treatments reduce the fire hazard, the risk of fire is still high.

Wood selection

When preparing for construction, an important step is the choice of material. The main requirements for wood as a building material are resistance to external aggressive factors, aesthetic appeal, accessibility, durability, heat and sound insulation.

It is also important to understand that no matter how high-quality the wood is, if the construction technology is violated and technical instructions are not followed, then the durability of the building in this case is not guaranteed.

Typically, the choice of wood type is made between larch, pine and spruce.

Larch

Larch is a coniferous tree that is distributed throughout Russia. The most suitable for construction is larch from the Siberian regions.

This type of wood has a huge number of advantages. It is durable, strong, does not rot and is not affected by fungus.

Materials made from larch do not swell or deform even in rooms with high humidity.

Larch has a beneficial effect on humans, bringing great benefits to his health. The price for products made from this material will be affordable to every buyer. In addition, larch does not require additional processing, unlike other species, which can also significantly save money.

In the process of rounding logs, very narrow sapwood is removed from larch, as a result of which the logs will not turn blue in the future.

Logs of this species do not require additional processing. The resin of the tree itself acts as an antiseptic, disinfecting and preventing tree beetles from developing.

Larch has greater fire resistance compared to other species.

Spruce and pine

Both breeds are actively used in the production of building materials. These are the main competitors in the consumer demand rankings. Timber made from these species is durable and strong.

Spruce and pine are identical in physical indicators, however, spruce timber is looser, but that is why it is warmer compared to pine.

Both breeds are similar in strength and chemical properties, but pine is more susceptible to blue-sapwood staining, which can initially be prevented by special means. As a preventative measure, it is recommended to use antiseptics. Over time, the color of spruce wood does not change.

Natural humidity both breeds account for 12%. Harvesting for spruce and pine occurs in the winter season due to the fact that deformation during shrinkage of logs is possible in summer. Pine logs large diameter preferred when constructing large buildings.

There are also differences in the structure of the fiber: in pine it is pronounced and has a certain pattern, while spruce has a uniform structure.

When choosing a material important factor is its flammability. But this can be combated by using fire retardant compounds to treat wood.

When building wooden houses they use different kinds logs

A rounded (calibrated) log is obtained by processing on a rounding machine. The advantages of this type of raw material are increased quality, the ability to form a profile of any complexity, low cost and high speed of construction of a log house. Houses made of rounded wood look beautiful and do not require additional processing.

Planed log – more suitable option for a warm and durable log house. It is processed with an electric planer, and all irregularities are removed. Such logs turn out even and smooth. The price of a house made of planed logs is significantly higher compared to houses made of other types of wood. The scraped log is the most durable even without special treatment. And with additional antiseptic treatment, a log house made from this type of log can last more than a hundred years.

Minor processing helps the debarked log retain all its protective properties, which significantly increases its service life.

Glued laminated log combines the advantages of profiled laminated veneer lumber and beautiful rounded log shapes. It is characterized by increased strength compared to solid wood. The main advantages of this type of log: it does not crack or change its shape over a long period of use, and also has a slight shrinkage of only 1-2%.

Requirements

There are certain standards and requirements that must be taken into account before starting to build a house.

So, for example, first you need to obtain permission to build housing on your site. Upon receipt, documents such as: certificate of ownership of the land plot, permission to use the land for country house construction or individual housing.

After receiving the necessary permission from the administration, you need to start planning the site. Neighboring buildings and a fence are selected as a guide for the location of the future house. The distance to them should be at least 5 m.

There are also requirements for building materials: no cracks, defects, or curvature. Indications for solid timber and laminated veneer lumber may differ. For example, in a solid log, cracks with a depth of up to half of the log are allowed, while in a glued log, their permissible depth is only 1/3. The curvature of the laminated veneer lumber can be up to 10 mm, and in the case of solid laminated timber – 17 mm.

Design

Any house is an architectural and engineering structure that cannot be built without a project that will require certain calculations. When designing, it is best to turn to specialists or choose a ready-made project.

It is worth considering that two-storey house with an area of ​​50 m2 will cost slightly more in terms of financial costs than a one-story building of the same area due to the fact that costs are reduced due to the foundation, engineering systems and roofing.

Before starting design, it is important to conduct a geological survey of the area, which will give an idea of ​​the properties of the soil and groundwater. This information will help you decide on the type of foundation.

First, the total weight of the future house is calculated, according to which the type of foundation is selected. Then the layout of the rooms, as well as the design and appearance, are thought out. It is necessary to think through it in detail precisely at this stage of preparation, since subsequently it will be impossible to make any changes, since the partitions in log houses intersect with the crowns of the external walls.

The next step is to calculate the number, locations and sizes of windows and doors.

Next, the type of roof is selected. Before designing a roof, you need to consider that the simpler it is, the more reliable it will be in the end. After which the sequence of work is developed, as well as the stages of assembly of the log house. At the end of the design, the installation of all utilities is thought through.

Don't forget to think about storage building material Location on. To do this, they usually build a shed where logs are laid with the obligatory relaying of thin wooden blocks.

Important details:

  • decide in advance what type of timber the construction will be made from;
  • do not forget to calculate the impact of shrinkage on the roof;
  • choose the place where the house will stand, taking into account the 5-meter distance from the boundary lines of the site;
  • do not design window openings onto the roadway, in the future the rooms will be noisy.

Projects for country houses and permanent residences will differ in some details. For the latter option, a more durable one is chosen monolithic foundation, the installation of communications, careful insulation and special sound insulation are taken into account.

A standard design is the most common type of design that does not require any special modifications. The most important thing in this option is to take into account the characteristics of the site for future construction.

A preliminary design is a drawing that shows only the facade of a house without calculations.

An individual project is developed taking into account all the wishes of the future homeowner.

Preparation

Today, a home is not just a place to live or spend a weekend, but also a financial investment. Therefore, before you start building, you need to thoroughly prepare. Errors in design, choice of materials, and installation can lead to serious consequences in the future.

The preparation for construction consists of the following steps:

  1. If you are already the happy owner of a plot of land, before construction you will need to think through the design, obtain technical specifications from the authorities servicing communication systems, and also obtain a construction permit.
  2. If there is no electricity or water on the site, you must take care of this at the preparation stage. The issue of water supply is solved by drilling a well, and in the absence of electricity, it is necessary to stock up on at least an electric generator.
  3. To prevent strangers from entering your site and preserving building materials, it is advisable to fence it.
  4. It is also necessary to install a small utility unit, which will simultaneously serve as a place to store tools and shelter from bad weather.

Then you need to level the area for the foundation, uproot stumps and tree roots, and clear the construction site of debris.

Construction stages

After completing the preparation, design, and procurement of materials, construction can begin.

When building a house with your own hands, it is important to follow the stages of action.

At the first stage, the foundation is erected and ground floor. Trenches or a pit are dug depending on the type of foundation. For log houses, strip, pile-grillage or slab foundation options are usually chosen. At the same stage, communications are laid and drainage is arranged. It is better to lay the foundation of a house in the warm season.

After the marked log is delivered to the site, walls are erected and floors are covered, as well as stairs and internal partitions are installed. Assembly takes place according to technological maps walls in development. All crowns are fastened together in a checkerboard pattern.

The next stage is the construction of the rafter system of the house. It is very important to comply with all necessary technological rules. When constructing wooden houses, rigid fastening of rafters is not used due to the fact that during shrinkage the entire structure may rupture. The most popular roofing coverings are metal tiles, corrugated sheets, soft roof, ondulin.

The next stage is sanding the walls and insulating them. Shrinkage may cause cracks to form, so it is very important to inspect the house and seal any cracks if necessary. After sanding, walls can be coated with special tinting solutions to change the color.

Then the doors and windows are installed, leaving gaps for the insulation. Conducted engineering work, is installed heating system, stairs. At the end of all work, external and internal finishing is carried out.

Insulation

A house made of wood is considered warm and pleasant to live in due to the fact that the walls breathe, retaining heat. However, the thickness of the logs cannot always withstand severe frosts. In this case, it is best to carry out external and internal insulation of the walls, roof and foundation. Insulating your home will help reduce heating costs and also reduce heat loss.

A vapor barrier film must be present in any type of home insulation, be it external or internal.

The film is installed between the wall sheathing and the heat insulation layer. The vapor barrier layer helps the main insulation not to get wet.

Outside

Owners of log houses should take into account that not all materials are suitable for external installation of insulation.

Ecowool, granulated sawdust and mineral wool are well suited for log buildings - these materials do not prevent water evaporation, are resistant to combustion and increase the thermal insulation parameters of a log house.

Before installing external insulation in log house it is necessary to carry out façade treatment antiseptics to prevent damage to wood by rot, mold and insects. The structure must also be thoroughly caulked, that is, all walls must be examined for damage and cracks.

The cracks can be easily detected with the help of a candle; to do this, you just need to move the burning flame next to the wall. If it deviates, then there is a gap in this place that needs to be sealed. When caulking, jute or tow is used.

After this, the sheathing is installed in the form of horizontal and vertical guides in increments equal to the thickness of the insulation. First lay on top of the sheathing vapor barrier film using a stapler, and on top of it - insulating material. Lays on top of it waterproofing film, which will protect the insulation from moisture.

Finishing in the form of siding or lining is done at the very end. Such cladding will provide protection from winds and bad weather, and will also give beautiful view your home.

It is advisable to insulate the house in the dry season and only a year or two after the start of its operation.

For external insulation, in addition to a heat insulator, you will need wooden beams for the frame, vapor barrier and hydraulic barrier, fasteners.

It should also be noted that thermal insulation work on the outside is better than other insulation options.

From the inside

Insulating from the inside can sometimes reduce living space, so many people choose external insulation. However, if the external insulation option is not suitable, but you still need to protect your home from the cold, then this can be done from the inside. But it should be remembered that this method can create a threat of rotting of the walls, this is especially typical for baths due to the constant high humidity.

Before insulation, you need to caulk, seal all cracks and cracks with tow, foam or felt and treat the walls with a protective solution. Next, a “pie” is created, consisting of several layers. First, a vapor barrier film is laid. Then a frame of 5*5 cm timber is installed, after which a layer of insulation is applied to the frame and covered with another layer of vapor barrier film.

You should never rush into anything finishing works, if the room is not yet insulated. It is important to insulate not only the walls, but also the ceiling and floor. Popular materials for this are mineral wool and glassine for the ceiling and floor; glass wool, polystyrene foam and ecowool - for walls.

You can insulate the building from the inside no earlier than a year after the construction of the house, in which case the insulation will last a long time. External roof insulation is a rather labor-intensive process consisting of several steps. First you need to thoroughly waterproof the entire roof space. In this case, membrane film is most often used, which is easy to install and affordable. Next, the insulation flooring is made, and at the end the roofing material is laid.

To insulate the inside of the attic, it is most often finished with fiberboard sheets, which create additional sound insulation and also create a beautiful appearance.

Bulk and liquid insulation, which must meet the following requirements: have low thermal conductivity, light weight, high vapor permeability, good sound insulation qualities, be fire resistant and have high density.

It is also possible to insulate the foundation both from the inside and from the outside. The most optimal time to insulate the foundation - before the construction of walls begins. If you are not planning a basement, then the entire space should be covered with expanded clay up to the level of the future floor. To create this type of insulation, it is necessary to make formwork around the perimeter of the internal walls, using durable materials (boards, slate). Next, expanded clay is poured inside, and the subfloor is covered with a hydromembrane layer and mineral wool.

The outer walls of the foundation must be treated with special sprayed insulation.

Installation of partitions

In addition to load-bearing walls, wooden houses have interior partitions, which can be made from various materials, but in log house they are usually made of wood, in harmony with log walls. They are usually installed after shrinkage.

With the help of interior partitions, you can divide one large space into several small rooms to suit your taste. At the same time, they do not carry any load, but are responsible for sound insulation. Such partitions can be moved from place to place without outside help.

When designing a house, interior partitions are usually placed so as not to create a large number of passage spaces. Today, there are many modern programs where you can create a three-dimensional model and immediately evaluate the future layout.

Partitions must be made of high-quality wood, treated with an antiseptic, and have lightness, reliability, rigidity and heat and sound insulation.

There are several types of interior walls.

Frame-panel

The most popular and economical option that you can easily do with your own hands. They are constructed from timber beams, which are connected to each other by horizontal strapping. This harness gives strength and reliability. The insulation of frame-panel partitions can be made of mineral wool, while on both sides the wall must be covered with some kind of vapor barrier material.

Frame-panel walls are considered the best in terms of sound insulation compared to other types. The surface can also be sheathed with plywood sheets to give a perfectly flat surface.

Solid

This type of partition is made from the same material as load-bearing walls, but the top is covered with fiberboard. The solid partition is secured at the top and bottom using bars, and at the sides with nails.

Panel walls

Made from several layers of boards that are laid in a bandage, it is a rather heavy structure with a thickness of 6 cm and a weight of about 80 kilograms.

Partitions are installed after the log house shrinks. To make them you will need a hammer, hacksaw, screwdriver, chisel, screwdriver, electric drill and jigsaw.

2016-02-24, 22:12

Tool Removing bark Laying out logs Initial markings Cutting feet Adjusting feet planes Log grooves

Cutting down a log house yourself is quite possible. Now we’ll find out all the details and see, and then the ax will be in your hands.

You won’t find this kind of material anywhere else on the Internet, since everywhere the cutting of a log house from first-class logs is shown, but it’s not easy for an inexperienced person to get first-class round timber, so we’ll cut from what God sent, without sacrificing quality.

At that time, God sent the forest felled by a hurricane, and there is no talk of the first grade. Nevertheless, we will make an excellent log house from it for a bathhouse.

If you get the first grade - great, make your work easier.

Tool

To make a log house you will need the following tools:

2. Hacksaw or chainsaw

3. Scherhebel plane or electric plane

4. Level 40 - 60 cm.

5. Metal ruler 40 - 60 cm.

6. Construction cord.

7. Template.

Learn more about the template, as it will need to be made. Pattern for a Canadian paw (dovetail). Here he is:


Template dimensions

A - width, taken relative to the crown (thin) part of the thinnest log. The width of the template is taken to be 4 centimeters narrower than this part. For example, if the thickness of the log is 20 cm, then the width of the template is 16 cm.

B - 3/4 of A

C and D - 2/4 from A

E - 1/4 of A

Removing the bark

First of all, remove the bark from the logs. From all. So that the log under the bark does not rot, and in warm weather, the bark beetle does not become active under it.

This operation is done with a shovel sharpened like this:


With the bark removed, logs can lie for a very long time, but if the expected storage period exceeds six months, it is necessary to ensure ventilation and cover the top of the pile with roofing material, or something similar.

Laying out logs

The work begins with laying out the logs. To do this, two stands with recesses are made, on which the log is given the position required for marking.

If the material is of the first grade, without noticeable bends, the log is laid out along the annual rings so that the part where the annual rings are thinner will later appear on the outside of the log house.

If the material is not of the first grade, then the log is laid out in accordance with the existing bends, which should be facing either upwards or towards the outside. Or in both these directions. Just don't go down and in.

Be careful. At first glance, the log may seem very straight, but a look along it will immediately reveal the curvature.


When laying out, we also determine the direction of laying the logs in the log house relative to the previous one. The butt part is placed on the crown part, and vice versa.

Initial marking

The logs are selected as follows: the first crown is the thickest, then thinner and towards the middle the thinnest. from the 7th crown it is thicker again, and the last pressure crown is thick.

For marking, the log is trimmed. There are no special devices for this - it is done by eye, but the smoother the trimming is done, the less adjustment there will be and the likelihood of gaps in the corners.

The trim is done exactly to size, the same for all logs of the wall.



After trimming according to the level, draw a horizontal line along the widest part of the end of the log (for the first grade it is the middle), mark its center, and take the width of the template from the center.



We draw two lines along the width of the template, along the vertical level, thereby beginning to outline the cheeks of the paw.


Then along these lines we stretch a thread between the ends of the log, and along it we draw the longitudinal part of the cheeks, 25 - 30 cm long. Only all are the same.



As a result, the ends of the log will have the following markings:


Paw cutting

According to the markings, we cut out the cheeks of the paw.



We adjust the width of the cheeks exactly to the width of the template so that it fits tightly, but without strain. Until your hand is full, it is better to make them with a small margin, and then trim them with an ax to the desired size.



A chainsaw is used to cut out the cheeks when there are knots on them. If there are no knots, then the entire segment is cut down with an ax.

Let's move on to production seat paws. The first two logs have one seat - the top one.

We put the template on the paw in the middle and draw along the upper border. The narrow part of the template is located on the outside of the wall.


From the edge of the border outlined according to the template, draw a line upward along the vertical level on both sides. The distance from the border to the top of the log, on the wide (inner) side, must be at least 5 centimeters.

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Then we draw out the edge of the seat, cut through the end, and cut down a segment of the log. It is important when cutting the end not to make a cut below the border of the template.




The paw is made in the same way at the opposite end of the log. Then, according to the same instructions, a second log is made, which in the log house will be parallel to the first.

Let's move on to the transverse logs of the first crown. Trimming, marking and cheeks for a transverse log are done in exactly the same way as for the first one. But the paw is a little different, since it is already complete, with two landing pads, upper and lower.

First, the lower platform of the paw is made. We measure approximately 5 cm from the bottom of the log, install and outline the template.

Why about 5 cm? Since the logs are not perfectly even, and the trimming will most likely not be perfect at first, the template will most likely move away from the plane, so it will need to be adjusted to the lower leg, and this adjustment can eat up another 1 - 2 cm.

As a result, we get the normal depth of the paw. The depth of the paw should be approximately 0.5 of the width of the groove, so if the average width of the groove is 12 - 14 cm, then the depth of the paw is normally 6 - 7 cm.

Don't forget that narrow end template from the outside. You don't have to draw the top edge yet. I have outlined it here to make it clearer for you.



Now we draw the inner edge of the paw using a level.


We turn the log over, and just like on the first log, we draw the edge and make a cut, and we cut out the paw in the same way, only if on the first log we made the top of the paw, now, on the transverse one, we make the bottom.

We are not touching the upper fit yet, since the lower one will still have to be adjusted.

After this, we take an electric planer and process the knot protrusions. If there are sharp bends or protrusions on the log, then we trim them too.

We just have to adjust the planes of the legs of the longitudinal and transverse logs, but how to do this, so as not to repeat ourselves, I will show you on the second log, which will already have a groove on it.

In the meantime, let’s install the transverse ones and draw out the entire structure along the diagonals and level. The level is taken from the bottom of the first logs.

Adjustment of paw planes

We have the top of the paw of the first log and the bottom of the paw of the first transverse log ready. Now we need to adjust these planes.

First of all, we draw the vertical. This is done using a level and a wedge.


Having positioned the log in this way, we look at the gap, determine and mark out the places on the paw that need to be cut so that there is no gap and the log lies strictly vertically.

After fitting, we measure the resulting depth of the lower plane of the paw, and using this size we draw according to the template and cut out the upper plane. This way the paw will be located exactly in the middle of the log.

Now we prepare the log three times. It will be longitudinal, with a groove, and all subsequent logs will be made according to the same instructions.

We position the log as mentioned above, cut out the cheeks and cut out the bottom of the paw to a depth of about 5 cm, process the knots and protrusions with a plane and install them on the previous one.

We set the vertical using a wedge, and look at the gap between the logs.

Wooden house construction is gaining momentum, which is no wonder, because living in an environmentally friendly building in the age of the concrete jungle is much healthier. It is quite possible to build your dream home yourself, provided that the owner suburban area has carpentry skills. Below are descriptions important processes, preceding such work, the answer to the question of how to make a log house with your own hands, as well as recommendations for its operation after installation.

Site preparation

What is it? The site must be cleared of any type of vegetation. Moreover, after uprooting all the bushes, you should water the ground with chemicals so that the roots do not stretch out again. If this is not done, then you can wait for the trees to appear in the log house. Perhaps, from a design point of view, it will look stylish and unusual, but broken floorboards and constant dampness are unlikely to suit the owners.

The cleared site is fenced off, thereby preventing the passage of other vehicles and marking the boundaries of the construction site. It is necessary to ensure the arrival of special equipment, if any, and provide electricity and water to the site. Thus, the area can be considered ready for the next stage - the foundation.

It would be nice to have a storage area for wood. This is usually a canopy that protects the material from the elements. In addition, it will need to be covered with film if construction is delayed.

Construction of the foundation

When choosing a foundation for a log house, you should proceed from its size and terrain conditions:

  1. Tape. Suitable for any type of building. Works well on problematic soils. You can be sure that the log house will not “go away” over time. Minus - requires large quantity concrete, which cannot reduce the cost of construction, even if you make the log house yourself.
  2. Pile. Suitable for light one-story buildings. It behaves well on heaving and rocky soils, reduces construction costs, but you can forget about floor insulation: a blowing wind sweeping snowdrifts under the log house is a common occurrence. It is erected in warm areas.
  3. Columnar. First of all, it is intended for damp lands. It is too capricious: after shrinkage, the level will definitely move, so its construction should be left to specialists. Economical.
  4. Slab. The most reliable, but expensive. It is a completely poured concrete base. It performs well on problematic soil: it does not lead, does not allow dampness or heaving. Labor intensive.

Below is a description of the installation for strip foundation as the best in terms of price-quality ratio.

To work you will need:

  • shovel;
  • level;
  • measuring instruments;
  • formwork – panels, boards;
  • crushed stone, sand;
  • fittings;
  • insulation;
  • concrete pouring.

The process begins with marking. Each bearing wall The log house must be firmly placed on the foundation. With this condition, the outline is outlined. It is very convenient to use wooden stakes and harsh threads.

Then ditches are dug along the marked lines. The soil should be immediately stored separately; it may still be needed. The depth, depending on freezing conditions, cannot be less than 70 cm.

After this, the future foundation needs to be insulated. Styrene is used for this. The slabs are laid on the sides of the ditch and secured with pins, piercing and thus fixing them along the walls. If you neglect the insulation, this will subsequently affect the quality of operation.

The installation of reinforcement begins. It is absolutely necessary for the rigidity of the structure. To do this, steel rods are laid out at the intersection and welded at the nodes and corners of the future log house.

Place the formwork up to the edge of the basement floor. Shields or boards are strengthened in accordance with the level so that the future foundation is level.

Do concrete pouring. To save money, rubble is poured into the ditch - construction waste: crushed stone, broken bricks, stones, etc. The pouring is carried out slowly, until complete shrinkage, pouring water each time until a milky foam appears on the surface. This is done to prevent the surface of the foundation from cracking. Then it must be given time to completely harden - 2-3 weeks.

Once the formwork has been removed, immediate construction cannot begin. Shrinkage of the base occurs throughout the year. During this time, it is possible to review all the nuances of the material.

Thus, the construction of the foundation can be considered completed. If the owners want to have some kind of extension in the future, then they need to think about it when planning the site. It is best when the common frame is made on one foundation.

Direct selection of material

Probably, even before walking around the offices, the owners had already decided on the choice of wood for their future brainchild. Based on financial capabilities, the material in the log house corresponds to them. An array is considered more expensive, but with it you can be sure that the house will be warm and durable. In addition, due to the beauty of wild or rounded logs, there is no need to decorate it. Profiled or laminated timber will be no less beautiful. In this case, construction with such materials will be easier due to the correct geometric shape material.

Types of logs that are used for log houses.

The problem with the question of how to properly make the log house itself lies in cutting the corners. Without the appropriate skill, you can get at least a waste of material. The greater evil is a windswept house. There are many types of felling. The most popular were “in the paw” and “in the bowl”. In the first case, material consumption is reduced, but the corners become cold bridges. In the second, skill is required, but a house with such a log is reliable.

It also makes sense to choose softwood or hardwood. The advantage of conifers is the presence of phytoncides, which protect the tree from mold, mildew and bark beetles. Minus coniferous trees The problem is that, due to their resinous nature, it is not recommended to build baths from them. The resin flows and poses a threat to people with high blood pressure, as it clogs all ventilation. The choice should be optimal in terms of price, decent quality and durability.

The laying of the first crown - the main element in the entire log house - begins. To make it high quality, it is recommended to choose larch for such a task. This tree has established itself as an excellent material that does not interact with moisture. An example of this is the piles in Venice, which stood in the water for many hundreds of years. They were made from Russian larch, by the way.

So, layers of roofing material are laid on the foundation, or it is tarred bitumen mastic. Then a beam or log with grooves already cut out is placed. Naturally, strictly according to the level. Also, don’t forget to stock up on inter-crown insulation. It could be moss, jute or tow. Although builders refuse the latter. Logs for the subfloor are immediately installed (for the convenience of the entire installation process).

The next crowns do not differ from the installation of the first one. The only difference is that the initial log or beam should be slightly wider than the rest. The work is carried out according to the plan or project, accurately combining the drawings with the realities. That is, window or door openings should be in place immediately, and not later. The fastening material is usually wooden dowels. The use of metal is undesirable, since corrosion will lead to destruction of the wood. Work is carried out to the desired height, placing the crowns with insulation. The last two rows in the log house are not secured with anything. After shrinking, they need to be removed in order to be properly mounted and strengthened. rafter system. Thus, you can build a log house yourself. This is not the most difficult, but responsible job.

Caulk and some construction nuances

Construction, of course, is not finished.

The log needs at least a year for final shrinkage.

After laying the crowns, you can carry out preliminary caulking, but you shouldn’t get too carried away with this. Due to inexperience, you can overdo it, and then the house will turn out crooked, with protruding elements. However, without preliminary caulking, you may subsequently not see construction flaws.

What is caulk? This is the sealing of inter-crown gaps suitable material. For this purpose, moss, tow, jute, flax and rope are used. Tow is considered the worst. After time, it will turn into dust. In addition, birds love it very much and will pull it out even before the owners start using the house. When purchasing jute, you need to be careful not to purchase jute felt instead. No matter how much the seller assures that its properties are the same as those of the above-mentioned material, it is worth knowing that felt is a favorite delicacy of moths. For beautiful rounded logs, you can use a rope to aesthetic appearance the log house was full.

Caulking is carried out special tools: with a spatula, a mallet and a hammer. The essence of the process comes down to plugging all the cracks and gaps between the logs, even if they are not visible at first glance.

There are two methods: dialing and stretching. The first one is good for thread seals. A thread is twisted from the material and pushed into the cracks by a set of loops. The second is faster and of better quality: the material spreads along the entire length of the log, and one edge is tightly tucked into the gap. The second one is rolled up and sent there. It is worth knowing that caulking is carried out from the bottom up and from both sides of the log house. After another 3-5 years, the process must be repeated.

After caulking, you can erect the roof and begin internal insulation and finishing.

The described process of how to make a high-quality log house yourself is simple only on paper. U wood construction a lot of nuances. You can comply with them provided you take a responsible approach to the matter and study the supporting information. Only then will the operation of a home built by oneself fully please the owners and make them proud of themselves.