You've probably noticed this effect: when the engine speed drops below 2000 per second, the stove begins to blow cool air. Someone notices this all the time. This is especially felt when the car is warming up in the morning, when the engine has already gained enough heat and cool air enters the cabin.
If you increase the speed while using the gas pedal, hot air immediately begins to flow into the cabin. This indicates poor circulation of coolant passing through the heating radiator. When the revolutions are high enough, that is, above 2000 revolutions, then the coolant pump rotates more strongly and moves the liquid through the system better.
Sometimes it happens that while driving along the highway, having set the interior temperature to a comfortable temperature, you find yourself, for example, in a traffic jam, and cold air begins to flow into the cabin. This, in the end, begins to bother you and prompts you to look for a way out of this situation. The best solution would be to install an additional pump that stabilizes the circulation flow of liquid through the radiator.
An additional electric pump is necessary for a significant circulation of coolant in a small and large circle when the thermostat is opened. Good heat transfer from a stove radiator becomes especially important, and on hot summer days, improved heat transfer to the main thing will be a wonderful addition. Simply put, in winter the car will be much warmer, and in summer the fan will turn on much less, providing the most even thermal regime of the power unit.
When the engine is warm, the heater blows out hot air even at maximum fan speed. The presence of an additional pump in the heating system provides the following advantages:
1. Much higher performance.
2. Creating high coolant pressure
3. Reduced energy consumption.
4. Low noise level.
5. High reliability and efficiency.
Installing an additional electric pump for a vehicle's heating system is often recommended as a means of increasing the efficiency of coolant circulation through the furnace radiator, which consequently improves the performance of the heating unit. Note that this tuning must be carried out only after all measures to eliminate weak points have been taken, namely:
1. The 16-gauge radiator hoses have been replaced with 18-gauge hoses.
2. The coolant intake fitting from the cylinder head was replaced with a fitting from a Gazelle of 18 diameter.
3. You replaced the stove tap with a suitable one, only with a larger cross-section, for example, a water ball valve.
4. The stove radiator is three-row copper.
5. An additional pump with an 18 mm fitting was installed.
6. A bushing is installed in the small throttling circle of the coolant flow and larger extraction.
7. The air ducts and stove are free of cracks and irregularities.
8. The thermostat installed on the car works properly and without failures.
After completing all of the above points, the final stage may be the installation of an additional electric pump from Gazelle or manufactured by Bosch. This procedure is not extremely difficult, but for beginners some points may not be entirely obvious. Next, we will tell you how to independently install an additional pump on a heating element in a car.
1. Additional pump with 18 mm diameter pipes.
2. Hoses with a diameter of 16 mm and a length of half a meter. They must be exclusively straight and reinforced.
3. Four clamps of the required diameter.
4. A five-contact relay, but four contacts are quite sufficient.
5. Block for a five-pin 30 A relay.
6. Blade guard holder.
7. 10 A blade fuse.
8. A pair of ring terminals.
9. Single-pin female connector.
10.
Three meters of ordinary two-core wire. Can be used from a non-working vacuum cleaner, for example.
11. Three meters of protective corrugation for the above wire
12. Illuminated button.
13. LED matte red 3 mm.
14. 690 ohm resistor.
15. A pair of rubber washers with an internal diameter of 6-7mm.
16. A bundle of wires can be useful if necessary.
Preparatory work. If you use a pump from a Gazelle, then you will need to open the lid, remove the rubber band and degrease it. Assemble by applying heat-resistant adhesive sealant to the rubber band and lid. Tighten the cover screws as tightly as possible. Now everything is secure.
Direct installation:
1. Drain the coolant from the power unit.
2. Unscrew the coolant supply clamp to the radiator from the pipe and remove the hose.
3.
It may happen that the condition of the hose leaves much to be desired. In this case, you will need to dismantle the frill, standard upholstery, and open the housing of the heating element motor. This way you will have access to the stove radiator.
4. Unscrew the clamp from the radiator side and remove the old hose. In its place, install a new half-meter hose, tighten the hose and assemble the stove body and frill in the reverse order.
5. If the hose is in perfect order, then you need to extend it using a connector to the required length.
6. Install a new hose on the engine pipe to the stove radiator.
7. Under the hood, determine a place to install an additional pump.
8. Unscrew the nuts from the bolts, install two rubber washers, and mount a new pump on top, tighten with nuts
9. Cut the heater radiator hose in place and connect it to the side outlet of the pump and secure with a clamp.
10. Cut the hose from the engine in place and connect it to the upper pipe of the pump. Make sure that the hose does not bend anywhere and secure it with a clamp.
11. Prepare the first part of the electrics; to do this, place a “ring” type terminal on the wire of the 86th contact.
12. Attach a second ring terminal to one wire of the fuse holder. Attach it to the positive terminal of the battery.
13. Connect the second wire of the fuse holder to the 30th contact of the relay block.
14. Attach a female terminal to contact number 87 and connect it to the wire supplying the pump.
15. Place the negative terminal on the hydraulic corrector tube holder bolt, put on the relay holder, secure with a nut and make sure that the terminal connections to ground are reliable.
16. Install a 10 A fuse in the holder.
17.
Lightly touch the 85th contact of the relay to the positive terminal of the battery. The relay will turn on and the pump will start working. If it doesn't work, then look for the reason.
18. Stretch the corrugated wire from the engine compartment to the interior mounting block. Connect one end of the wire to pin 85 of the relay block.
19. Remove the protective plastic wall on the driver's foot side and pull out the heater control unit.
20. Stretch another piece of corrugated wire from the mounting block to the heater control unit. Attach clamps to the standard wiring above the pedals so that they do not dangle.
21. Take the positive from the ignition in the mounting block and connect it to one of the wires. Look specifically at the car wiring diagram.
22. Connect the second wire from point 20 in the engine compartment with the wire from point 16.
23. Referring to the diagram, connect the button block. It is most convenient to connect the button illumination using two “guillotine” connectors from the air recirculation button illumination. If your car does not have such a button, then you can take the damper control knobs from the illumination.
24. A convenient “feature” will be a visual indication of the pump activation control. Not everyone will need this, but it would not hurt to talk about the correct connection of this element.
According to the electrical diagram, attach the LED with a resistor to the electrical circuit. Drill a 3 mm hole in the button in the corner and secure the LED with superglue. The wires are flexible, thin, multi-core, so you can safely press the button, they are prepared for bending.
25. Turn on the side lights to make sure the button is illuminated.
26. Turn on the ignition, press the button and make sure that the electric pump is working.
27. Insert the button into its designated place and mount the heater control unit.
28. Pour coolant into the expansion tank.
29. Start the engine and warm it up completely. Make sure that the hoses are connected firmly and that fluid does not leak out. Turn on the pump button and make sure it works correctly.
One of the main types of equipment used in the heating system of a private home is a circulation pump. This device allows you to transport coolant through the system more efficiently, which will contribute to uniform heating of the premises. In our article we will describe why an additional pump is needed in the heating system of a house, we will get acquainted with the diagram and location of its installation, and its use in the Warm Floor system.
Many owners of country real estate, and especially two-story houses, are interested in the question of installing an additional circulation pump in the heating system. They come to this conclusion after uneven heating of the radiators in the rooms, provided that the boiler has sufficient power. If the temperature difference between the boiler and the coolant in the pipelines exceeds 20 degrees, then it will be necessary to remove air plugs or set the existing pump to an increased speed.
Installation of additional pumping equipment is necessary in the following cases:
Important! If the heating system calculations are incorrect, the installation of additional equipment will lead to a decrease in the heating efficiency.
Before installing an additional pump, balance the heating system using balancing valves An additional pump in the heating system may not be needed if it is balanced using balancing and control valves, so before purchasing additional equipment, bleed the air from the radiators and add water to the system. If everything works fine, then there is no point in installing an additional pump.
If there is a need to install an additional pump, then another device must be included in such a heating system - a hydraulic separator. In the list of terms used, a hydraulic separator can also be called an anuloid or a hydraulic arrow.
Such devices are recommended for use in heating systems where the coolant is heated using long-burning boilers. The fact is that the heating devices in question can operate in several phases (fuel ignition, combustion process and attenuation), and for each of these phases it is necessary to maintain a certain combustion mode.
Installing a hydraulic needle in the heating system allows you to create a certain balance in the operation of heat and warming up the system. The anuloid itself is made in the form of a pipe with four outlet pipes. The main functions of such a device include:
Note! From these characteristics it can be understood that the hydraulic separator is considered an important device in the heating system, so it must be installed without fail if there is a pump.
Heating in a private house performs many functions that must be implemented regardless of coolant flow and possible pressure drops in the pipelines. It is quite difficult to achieve efficient operation of the system, because the liquid enters the pipeline circuits from one source of thermal energy - the boiler, which will ultimately lead to unbalanced heating. To prevent such situations, the hydraulic separator serves; it performs the function of decoupling.
In the autonomous heating system of a private house, it is recommended to install circulation pumps with a wet rotor, which rotate without the use of special lubricants. The coolant and lubricating element here are the coolant. When installing such a device, the following rules must be taken into account:
According to some users, it is better to install the pump on the return pipeline. Here the coolant temperature is minimal, which will increase the service life of the device, but not all experts agree with this statement. The fact is that the pump is designed for operation in a coolant environment whose temperature can reach 110 degrees.
Note! The only requirement for installing a pump is considered to be ease of maintenance, that is, such a device can be mounted between the boiler and heating radiators on the forward or return pipeline. Pumping equipment cannot be installed between batteries.
In practice, two schemes for installing a circulation pump are used in a single-pipe and two-pipe heating system. Before carrying out installation work, you must carefully study the attached instructions. At the preparatory stage of work, water is drained from the system and the pipes are cleaned of contamination by additional pumping of liquid. The pump is installed according to the attached diagram, then coolant is poured into the circuit and the unit is turned on.
As we have already said, it is best to install the pump on the return side using a tap or, as it is also called, a bypass. Such a device is necessary to shut off the water and replace the pump in case of breakdown. The diameter of the outlet pipe should be smaller than that of the central pipeline.
At each of the edges of the bypass, before the entrance and after the exit from the pump, taps are installed for emergency shut-off of the coolant. Another valve is installed on the central line to direct the flow of liquid through the pump. Before entering the pumping equipment, a special filter is attached that will accumulate harmful particles in the water.
Note! In the “Warm Floor” system, the circulation pump is installed in a horizontal position after the mixing unit in the supply pipeline section. In some wiring schemes, several such devices are installed, each of which will pump liquid within one floor.
Installation diagram of the pump in the “Warm Floor” system When filling the system with coolant, it is not always possible to get rid of the air present here. Accumulated gases often block the movement of fluid, and not every manifold can be used as a relief valve. To solve this problem, the circulation pump has a special outlet valve made in the form of a disk.
To release accumulated gases, you need to turn this part with a screwdriver counterclockwise. After supplying water from the slot, the disk is tightened and the pump is started again. A similar procedure is repeated several times in a row.
Now the cold weather has arrived and the owner of the VAZ 2109, living in Russia, will again have to face the problem of the stove. Indeed, either the domestic manufacturer initially did not take care of its normal functioning, or this car should have such a system, but the VAZ 2109 with an electric pump, which is installed independently, is more suitable in winter in our country.
On a VAZ 2109, installing an electric pump will not take much time and it is enough to know the basic algorithm for carrying out the operation, which will be discussed in our article.
It is clear that no owner wants to freeze in his car all winter. And passengers are unlikely to want to sit in a kind of “refrigerator”, where instead of warming up, you freeze completely.
The standard stove of this car, of course, warms, but it does it reluctantly and as if on debt. It's all about its low efficiency, especially at idle, when you're stuck, for example, in traffic jams.
Installing an additional electric pump, in this case, solves the problem immediately. In fact, there are many ways to make the interior of your “nine”, but modifying the car by installing an electric pump is the most rational solution.
So, let’s first find out what an additional electric pump in the VAZ 2109 will give us:
Note. In other words, if a standard stove blows hot air only when the car is moving, and only blows warm air at idle, this means poor circulation of fluid in the CO. Modernizing CO by installing an additional pump will allow antifreeze to circulate faster.
It seems that we have sorted out what the additional pump gives us.
Now let's find out how to choose it:
Note. Gazelle pumps are also different. Old and new pumps are known. As a rule, new electric pumps vibrate less and their use is more rational.
The owner himself decides which pump to choose. There is practically no difference between the pump options, but you need to choose a pump that does not leak.
In addition, by choosing a high-quality pump, the likelihood of it breaking or performing poorly will be reduced to zero.
In this article we will learn how to install an additional pump on a car like a real auto electrician. The VAZ 2109 is a car that allows you to constantly modernize and improve something, however, like all models of this family.
Let us present to the reader two algorithms on how to mount a pump from Gazelle and from Bosh.
As mentioned above, this is the most common option for installing an additional pump.
Tools and materials:
Let's get started:
Advice. Some motorists who are installing an electric pump for the first time are wondering: where is it better to install the pump, in the gap in the heater supply pipe or in the outlet pipe? In fact, there is no difference in this, as long as the pump is installed downstream of the coolant flow.
Note. You can mount the additional pump on the VAZ 2109 directly to the stud of the washer reservoir or to the stud near the battery.
In addition, some craftsmen advise installing it on the factory Shumka mount, which, as you know, is located on the engine shield. It is most rational to place it near the battery, which is what we will do.
Now you need to think about how to establish a connection. It is most practical to transfer the connection to the recirculation button. If not, then you can put it on the SAUO unit or on heated mirrors.
Note. Let us remind you that the recirculation valve is located on the engine compartment panel, and two thin hoses go to it.
Now it's time to check how the pump works. When you press the button, the pump should begin to hum and blow air. If this does not happen, then something was done wrong.
We continue with the installation:
We continue the process:
It is advisable to check in air when the temperature is about -10 degrees Celsius:
Again, for this we will prepare the necessary materials.
Materials you will need:
Installation algorithm:
Note. A common problem when installing an aftermarket pump can be threading the factory hose onto the pump. Let us note right away that it is easier to go and buy a new one than to try to install a standard one.
The costs of such an installation are minimal. If it costs about 2,000 rubles, that’s still a lot.
Refinement of the standard system will only give positive results. The instructions given above will tell you how to do everything with minimal loss of time and money.
Videos and photos will help you gain practical understanding in the process, so we don’t ignore them. The cost of installing an additional electric pump will not affect the family budget in any way if you do everything yourself.
If standard heating is not enough, the problem must be solved somehow. You can try installing a second radiator, but a more obvious solution would be to install an electric pump. It is additional and pumps liquid along a small circuit. An additional pump can be installed on the VAZ-2114 stove in 5 minutes. The problem is that the coolant needs to be drained. Otherwise, there will be no difficulties: all parts are standard and are produced by AvtoVAZ itself.
The result of our efforts is what is shown in the video. Let's see.
Everything here is trivial
If we look from under the bottom, we will see two hoses near the partition. We need the one that is fixed closer to the right wheel. And now, instead of hose 19, an assembly is installed: the same hose “21083-8101010-01”, an electric pump, hose “2101-8101204” (to pipe 20). That's all, actually.
Each hose is attached to the nozzles with two clamps. The article number of one clamp is “2108-1300080-10”.
Purchase parts in advance:
The pump from the Gazelle will have to be modified: the body is disassembled, degreased, the rubber gasket is lubricated with sealant...
GAZ pump after modification
When assembling, use screws with nuts instead of standard self-tapping screws (see photo).
By installing an additional pump on the VAZ-2114, you don’t even have to connect it. Everything will work as before. The main thing is that the pump does not leak, and we have already indicated the solution.
If all the necessary parts have been purchased, do the following:
Antifreeze drainage unit
External outlet hose
BOSCH pump mounting method
Be aware that a plug from (you need to buy) will fit into the pump connector. The connection diagram is discussed below.
Clarifications for the domestic pump:
We connect the motor through a fuse and a relay rated at 10 Amps. The relay will be turned on by a button attached to the device.
Scheme (simple version)
The “+” voltage was taken directly from the battery, but this can be done - a sealed holder “hangs” on the wire, where the fuse (5A) is located. Installing a button looks simple:
As a result, you can see what is shown in the photo.
Circulation button
An additional pump in the heating system will be the best way out of a situation where home owners have problems heating their home. Installing the unit will help to evenly distribute heat in the pipeline. The great advantage of the pumps is their versatility, because they can operate not only on coal, but also on diesel fuel, fuel oil, gas, wood and electricity.
The use of additional equipment to improve the operation of the heating system provides residents with many benefits. Firstly, the overall efficiency of the system increases. This affects not only the uniformity of heat distribution, but also the temperature in living spaces. Secondly, the air in the rooms warms up much faster. Thirdly, heat circulation inside the main pipeline is improved.
Another advantage of an additional pump is the elimination of the possibility of air accumulation in one of the channels through which heat circulates. Owners of apartments on the upper floors suffer most from this problem, however, if you install an additional unit, it will help create the necessary pressure and supply heat to the entire building. The big advantage of the pump can be confidently considered its efficiency. In practice, it has been proven that together two units (standard and additional) will consume less fuel.
In addition, if the building is provided with heat by a pair of pumps in the system, then residents can install useful devices such as towel dryers and thermostats. The inhabitants of such a building also have the opportunity to use small-diameter pipes - the quality of heating will not deteriorate as a result. Another important advantage is the low price of the equipment. An additional circulation pump can cost from 5 to 20 thousand rubles. This is not too much money, considering that money will be collected for the unit from all residents of the house.
Before purchasing and installing equipment, it is worth studying its most important parameters. In order not to make a mistake when choosing, familiarize yourself with such characteristics as coolant density, pressure force and water temperature. You will also need to know the diameter of the pipes used to heat the building.
You can find out exactly what characteristics the pump you have chosen has on the packaging, side wall or in the technical data sheet of the unit. Manufacturers designate pressure with the letter “H”. This indicator means the device’s ability to raise water to a certain height. It is measured in meters. The second characteristic is the fluid consumption of the system. It is designated by the letter "Q" and is measured in cubic meters. This parameter is equal to the boiler power and depends mainly on the diameter of the pipeline.
Circulation equipment is not designed to lift fluid. Because of this, when purchasing a unit, special attention should be paid to the “Q” parameter. If the installed boiler is not equipped with a pump, then further liquid consumption will have to be calculated independently. Most modern heating devices already have similar equipment. Installing 2 devices to improve heat circulation is optimal if the house already has a boiler of an older modification, but over time the building was completed and the heating structure increased.
There is no need to purchase very expensive equipment. In any case, the device will not be used to its full potential. In addition, the installed unit has a high noise level. Most often, the length of the pipe determines the power characteristics of the equipment: for every 10 m of pipe, the device must provide 0.5 m of pressure. In practice, a 100-meter ring will work effectively if the pump produces a pressure of 5 m. When buying a unit for a pipeline, do not forget that the power of the device should be 10% more than the figure calculated by the residents.
For efficient media circulation, it is best to use “wet” or “dry” pumps. In the first case, the rotor is located inside the coolant, that is, it pumps water while being directly in it. As the fluid circulates, it cools the engine. A stator is used to supply electricity. Wet pumps have many advantages. Firstly, they are able to last for a fairly long period of time. Secondly, such devices do not require frequent maintenance. Thirdly, they make less noise. And fourthly, they are not large in size.
Disadvantages include not very high efficiency, limited scope of use, and the inability to use pumps for drinking water and other food-related devices. Such units are used only in mansions and residential high-rise buildings.
In the design of dry-type pumps, the rotor is located outside the coolant. Such devices use a seal that is designed to separate the motor and the pump itself. The approximate efficiency of the equipment is 75%, which is why these units are used in situations where it is necessary to regularly pump large amounts of water. Such units are used more in manufacturing and shopping centers than in residential buildings.
Before you begin installing the pump, carefully read the operating algorithm. The first step is to prepare for installation. To do this, purchase split-type threads and a filter for deep cleaning. Also, before installing the equipment, you need to prepare a check valve. It stabilizes the operation of the heating system. To work you will also need:
It is worth deciding in advance on the installation location. Modern units can be installed not only on the water supply pipe, but also on the return pipeline. If you plan to install the device on a section of pipe between the return and direct radiator-type wiring, then before doing so you will need to check the ability of the unit to withstand a powerful pressure of hot liquid. It is also worth remembering that in buildings where the premises are equipped with “warm floors”, the injection device is placed at the hot water supply point. In this way, it will be possible to eliminate airiness in the pipes.
If there is a membrane tank, then the pump with a bypass is mounted on the side of the return pipeline, closer to the expander.
The installation of an additional circulation pump in a standard heating system does not depend in any way on the type and material of the latter. In any case, installation will have to be done using the bypass method. If the house is equipped with a metal pipeline, then you can purchase a ready-made structure that allows you to bypass the main highway. Before installation, you will need to completely drain the liquid and clean the pipes. To do this, the pipeline must be flushed several times. After this, a piece of pipe bent in the shape of the letter “P” is installed on the side of the main pipe.
Fix the pump in the middle of the pipe. Place ball valves on both sides of the device. What are they needed for? First of all, the water circulation will return to normal if you turn off one of the taps. Secondly, in case of repair of the unit, you will have to drain the water; if there are taps, this will not be necessary. During installation, pay attention to the direction in which the liquid moves. It is marked on the pump body with a special arrow. Upon completion of installation, the system is filled with water and the operation is checked. If any problems are detected, they should be eliminated at this stage of the operation.
Next, using the central screw, we expel the stagnant air from the pipes. If everything is done correctly, water will begin to flow from a separate hole in the pipeline. To install a unit with manual control, the air must be removed from the pipes before installation begins. To do this, the device is turned on for a few minutes, after which the equipment valves open. This procedure should be repeated several times. As soon as the pipeline is filled with a sufficient amount of liquid, the pump itself will start. In this case, the presence of air in the pipes is strictly unacceptable.
Residents of the house will not receive high-quality heating if the pump is not connected correctly. When connecting the device to the power grid of natural circulation systems, an automatic fuse is used. To install the latter, you should choose a place at a distance of at least 70 cm from the main boiler. In forced circulation systems, the pump will start working after the thermal relay is turned on. In order to ensure simultaneous operation of the built-in and additional pump, the second device will need to be connected to a relay or routed in parallel to the first device.
In electric-type boilers, circulation devices should be connected directly to the boiler. In this case, the pump will only operate when the liquid is heated. The cleaning filter must be installed in front of the pump housing. A valve screwed into the upper part of the bypass makes it possible to ventilate the pipeline, removing any air that has accumulated there.
