All private houses have an individual heating system. Even if it is a boiler and not a wood stove, it still requires the gas and smoke generated as a result of fuel combustion to be removed from the system.
When the heating boiler is located in the basement of the house, the instructions for its operation allow the chimney to be installed along the outer wall. And then it can be considered as an element of the facade, and its decor can be made in accordance with the exterior decoration of the house.
If the building has a stove or fireplace, the chimney passes through the space of the room in which they are located and the attic. In this case, the interior decoration of the attic roof is carried out taking into account the existing chimney.
The main problem with the design and finishing of the chimney is that hot smoke passes through it. Accordingly, its walls heat up.
So:
Ready-made elements are also sold on construction markets: both for pipe flashing and decorative parts. These also include caps that protect the chimney from snow, rainwater and dust getting into it.
The finishing of the part of the chimney located on the roof begins with its thermal insulation, regardless of what material it is made of.
So:
As for the frame lining of the chimney, almost all types of panels used for finishing facades can be used here.
Fiber cement boards that imitate brick or stone masonry are especially good in this regard.
Chimney inside the house
As a rule, a fireplace is installed in the living room. And it is located on the first, or even basement floor.
If the house also has an attic (see Attic finishing options: making the right choice), then the chimney stretches through all these rooms. And it needs to be finished so that it fits harmoniously into the interior of each room.
And before you start finishing the chimney, you need to think about how it can be used in interior design. And there is something to think about.
For example: it can be used to create a niche made of plasterboard or designed as a column. Or you can combine both, as in the example below.
Just for this purpose, ordinary drywall is not suitable; you need to take a fire-resistant option (GKLO). It is necessary to lay fiberglass or basalt wool inside the aluminum frame, and then the surface of the drywall can be decorated with any material used for interior decoration: wallpaper (see Wallpaper decoration: choosing the right one), decorative paints, gypsum stucco.
Or you can plaster and paint it manually or using a stencil. As you can see, with a little imagination, you can turn the chimney into an exquisite decoration of the room.
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In a living room, the presence of a stove or fireplace is a blessing, but the appearance of the chimney does not always correspond to the interior. If this is your case, then from this article you will learn how and with what to finish the pipe in the house. And not only indoors, but also outside, so that the entire structure meets modern architectural trends.
Appearance and original design are of course important, but before you finish a pipe in the house, you should think about safety. I think you can guess the serious consequences yourself.
So, in order not to make mistakes and not burn down the house, first it would be a good idea to familiarize yourself with the standards. In this case should be guided by SNiP 41-01-2003, it is this instruction that regulates the installation and operation of heating, ventilation and air conditioning. The document is voluminous, so I have written down the main points for you.
The use of asbestos-cement and thin-walled stainless steel pipes in furnaces burning coal or coke is strictly prohibited. These materials are not able to withstand the temperature of the gases in such a chimney.
When you choose both the chimney itself and the finish for the surface of the chimney, inside or outside, you should consider the type of fuel your boiler or stove will run on. The temperature of the flue gases directly depends on this.
Often, all capital stoves, fireplaces and boilers are installed on the ground floor, and sometimes even in the basement of the building. Accordingly, the chimney will pass through 3 levels and we will have to finish each level:
In this case, it all depends on what kind of heating unit you are dealing with. Brick stoves and fireplaces usually have the same brick chimney. Such structures rarely need additional decoration, since the brick itself already looks good.
But if second-rate brick was used to build the chimney or the finishing material does not suit your chosen design at all, then you have to choose between hanging heat-resistant panels, laying tiles and plaster.
It is not difficult to guess that the highest temperature of the flue gases is at the exit from the furnace. Therefore, I do not recommend installing thermal insulation and arranging some exotic decor on top of it. After all, you built the stove to keep it warm, but if you “wrap” it in thermal insulation, then all the heat will fly away.
The first tile you come across may not be suitable for cladding. The glaze on regular tiles will simply crack due to temperature. Since ancient times, in Rus', so-called tiles were used to decorate stoves. Without going into the intricacies of technology, tiles are the same tiles, only heat-resistant.
But the price of highly artistic, beautiful tiles is, to put it mildly, frightening. A more affordable option would be clinker tile cladding. The range of clinker in stores is huge. Plus, all such material is heat-resistant.
In this case, we are interested in double-fired tiles. It is porous, which means it will not heat up as much. You can recognize it by its markings - the number 2 will appear on the tongue of the flame.
I won’t talk for a long time about the technology of laying tiles, since it is the same everywhere. Primer for preparing a brick pipe, heat-resistant tile adhesive and grout are available in special departments.
First, the tiles will need to be soaked in water for 15 minutes. While it is wet, you dilute the tile adhesive according to the instructions on the package. Next, take a comb spatula and apply glue to the tile and the base, after which you glue the tile to the base.
The gaps between the tiles are maintained with plastic crosses. The next day, when the glue has set, you will need to pull out the plastic crosses and fill the gaps with grout. Usually the grout hardens within 2-3 days, after which you can heat the oven.
This is a general technology, so be sure to read the instructions on all packages; the preparation time for the compositions may vary greatly.
Another worthy finishing option is the use of hanging porcelain tile panels. The material is beautiful and durable, but expensive. Porcelain tiles have an ideal glossy surface, so many people unknowingly confuse these slabs with marble.
To hang such slabs you will have to attach a metal frame to the structure. It is better to take special profiles for the frame, but if you do not find them, then install them the same as for drywall. To attach the frame to the pipe, you can use self-expanding metal anchors or special heat-resistant dowels.
The slabs are hung on special hooks. The porcelain tile itself can be whatever you like. This material is fired at a temperature of 1400ºC, so the chimney pipe certainly will not harm it.
When you install any hanging material on high-temperature surfaces, the panels should not be rigidly fastened. When heated, almost all materials expand and you need to leave a small damping gap, at least 3 - 4 mm.
Round ceramic or metal chimneys are also finished using a frame method. That is, first you install a frame around the pipe, and then you decorate the frame.
In addition to the above-mentioned metal frame made of UD and CD profiles, a ceramic version is available for round chimneys. In this case, such ceramic products are first wrapped in a heat-insulating cocoon, and then the ceramic sections are mounted. Such a pipe often no longer requires additional finishing.
It was not for nothing that I mentioned the adjacent room. Now many city residents, without waiting for mercy from utility services, install AGVs in their apartments. Naturally, everything is installed there by specialists, and the pipe is routed horizontally through the wall to the street.
Sometimes such a chimney passes through a loggia or balcony. And I am often asked how to finish a balcony with a pipe from a heating boiler, and what materials can be used for this.
So, the balcony can be decorated with any materials. There is no fire danger in this case. The fact is that for AGV and some other models of gas boilers, a coaxial chimney pipe is used.
This pipe has a double-circuit design:
Thus, these units use air taken from the street to operate. For those who do not understand, I have placed a diagram below.
Accordingly, when such a coaxial pipe passes through a balcony or loggia, you can decorate it however you like. Since its outer part is metal and, more importantly, the top of this pipe is actually cold.
Usually coaxial pipes are simply painted. Sometimes a wooden or metal frame is built around them and this frame is already sheathed with some kind of interior finishing, for example, clapboard or plastic panels.
Finishing of the chimney on the second floor or in the attic is done only with the use of thermal insulation. In the first case, thermal insulation is needed so that you or someone in your household does not get burned on a hot chimney.
As for the unheated attic floor, if you do not insulate the chimney in this sector, condensation will settle on its inside. As a result, it will begin to constantly become overgrown with soot and actively deteriorate.
On a heated second floor without insulation, you can only leave a powerful brick pipe. Flue gases in this sector are no longer so hot. Plus, brickwork will be a good protection against overheating and it is impossible to get seriously burned on it. Typically, such pipes are simply tiled or plastered.
The new-fashioned metal sandwich pipe does not need finishing at all. This design is initially equipped with powerful thermal insulation, and its body is made of perfectly polished stainless steel.
Only non-insulated ceramic and metal chimneys require mandatory finishing on the second floor. Brick and insulated sandwich pipes can be decorated as desired.
Usually, an open pipe on the second floor is enclosed in a cocoon of dense basalt wool, which covers it over the entire area, right up to the pipe itself. Then the frame is constructed and the finishing is installed on it. Of course, this is much easier and faster.
But one of my friends did it more wisely. His method provides for both maximum heat transfer from a hot pipe and protection of people from accidental burns. Plus this design looks quite attractive.
A ceramic pipe was initially installed for the chimney; the design is durable and reliable, but it gets very hot. I didn’t want to lose precious heat on the second floor, so the man built a supporting frame of metal profiles around the pipe.
The frame itself was made square and covered from the inside with high-density cotton basalt slabs, 50 mm thick. A gap of 50 mm was left between the thermal insulation and the chimney. But the heat-insulating cocoon was not made solid, but with two ventilation windows.
One window was made at floor level, and the second almost at ceiling level. Both above and below, ventilation gaps ran horizontally along the entire perimeter of the structure.
Everyone knows that warm air rises and to prevent the ceiling from burning from the rising currents, a layer of basalt wool was glued onto it and a stainless steel plate was fixed on top of it.
The outside of the metal frame was covered with fire-resistant plasterboard (GKLO) and puttied over the entire surface. At the same time, a person installed a decorative mesh on the upper and lower ventilation gaps along the entire perimeter of the plasterboard frame.
There was an idea to additionally install small fans on the ventilation gaps, but after a month of operation we realized that everything works well without them.
At floor level, cool air is drawn into the lower ventilation gap. It heats up quickly from the chimney and exits through the top ventilation. The stove itself is built with high quality, so both floors are evenly heated in half an hour.
Fire-resistant drywall can be decorated with anything. After puttying, the easiest way is to cover the box with wallpaper or apply decorative plaster.
If desired, the sheets can be covered with tiles; in this case, any will do, since thermal insulation is installed inside. Plus, the plasterboard box itself can be made with niches and this will already be an original design.
Arranging a chimney on the roof and passing through the roof is perhaps the most difficult and important stage. If a pipe inside a building without finishing simply spoils the interior, and even if you are careless, you can get burned on it, then external finishing is, first of all, protecting the chimney from destruction and only then a beautiful decor.
The easiest way is to arrange the passage of a round insulated sandwich pipe through the roof. Here you can do without completely disassembling the roofing pie.
When installing stoves, chimneys, boilers and other high-temperature equipment, all this equipment can only be insulated with basalt mineral wool. Its melting point starts at 900ºС, glass wool melts already at 450ºС. and insulation materials such as polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and penoizol are strictly prohibited; they emit carcinogens already at 70ºC.
The corrugation in them is made in the form of a cone. You only need to cut it in the right place so that the hole on the soft flange is slightly less than the diameter of the pipe;
Sometimes the pipes from the boiler and fireplace are discharged in one place, then the exit is arranged in a package, and this package is immediately decorated. The rectangular outer frame for such a package is most often made of wood. In this case, the wood is impregnated with fire retardants, although no one forbids assembling it from metal profiles.
The inside of the frame is sheathed with basalt thermal insulation. And for external cladding there are several options, I will talk about them a little later.
The passage through the roof of a brick pipe and a rectangular frame with a package of pipes is carried out in almost the same way. But it’s a little more difficult to seal a brick chimney, so I’ll tell you about it.
It is better to seal the brick pipe before installing the roofing. If such a coating is already in place, then this sector will have to be opened, otherwise a high-quality finish will not work.
To prevent water from leaking, you will need to install 2 aprons. The lower apron is considered the main one and is mounted under the roofing material on the sheathing. The top apron is installed on top of the roofing and is more responsible for the decor.
We start naturally with the lower apron. In most cases, it is made from galvanized sheet with a thickness of 0.5 - 0.7 mm. The entire structure consists of 4 sectors, corresponding to the number of planes of the pipe.
The lower part of the apron is placed on the roof sheathing; the width of this sector is about 300 mm. Then the sheet bends and rises along the pipe, here the width is 150 - 200 mm.
Assembling the lower apron from segments.
This is sufficient for wooden and metal frames. When it comes to brick pipes, the upper edge of the apron is bent towards the pipe at 90º by about another 10 mm.
This corrugation is screwed to the pipe trim using self-tapping screws and press washers. And it bends around the roof using a rubber hammer. Sometimes flashings are made from rigid galvanized sheet, but they are more difficult to seal.
As I already said, the chimney sandwich pipe does not require any finishing. There you will only need to install a protective top deflector.
If you are arranging a wooden or metal frame for the pipe package, then there are 3 cladding options for it:
Don't even think about lining your chimney with vinyl siding. Remember that you are dealing with a hot surface and the plastic may simply melt.
Lining a brick pipe with a corrugated sheet is even easier than a frame structure. You will need to attach several wooden blocks or metal profiles to it and screw the cladding on. By the way, it is advisable to lay basalt wool slabs between the lathing strips; outdoor temperature changes are especially harmful to structures.
In addition to lining with corrugated sheets, old brick pipes that have lost their appearance can be finished in two more ways: clinker tiles and plaster. In both cases the technology is approximately similar.
Naturally, the surface will first need to be cleaned and primed. Since we are dealing with constant temperature changes, the pipe will need to be reinforced. In this case, it is better to choose galvanized metal mesh for reinforcement. We fasten the mesh with anchors or heat-resistant dowels.
For the rough layer, I mix a cement-sand mortar, only it is better to take expanded clay rather than ordinary sand. Expanded clay inclusions will act as insulation.
You will need to try to level the rough layer well, and then think about what you can do best. You can lay tiles or apply a layer of finishing plaster. By the way, instead of clinker tiles, the chimney can be lined with natural stone, the technology is the same, only without plastic crosses.
As you can see, finishing a chimney in a private house is quite within the power of a home craftsman; there is plenty to choose from, if only there is a desire. In the photos and videos in this article I have selected additional material on the arrangement and finishing of chimneys. If you still have questions after watching, write them in the comments and we’ll talk.
If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!
Finishing the chimney pipe on the roof is often perceived as unnecessary luxury. Meanwhile, properly organized passage of the pipe through the roof, insulation and protection of the outer part of the chimney is of practical importance.
A beautiful chimney completes the architectural ensemble of the building. The roof of a house says a lot about the owner; a lined chimney testifies to a caring owner and even to his wealth. This part of the argument for the aesthetic finishing of the smoke exhaust duct is beyond doubt. However, there are several practical purposes.
Why is the external part of the chimney finished?
Note! Proper finishing of the chimney pipe can only be done with approved materials. There are officially established standards and rules for carrying out work.
Since the heating system is a source of increased fire danger, its arrangement is strictly regulated by the norms and rules of construction SNiP 41-01 of 2003. This document combines the requirements for construction work of ventilation, smoke exhaust ducts and air conditioning systems.
The junction of the roof to the chimney pipe is a rather complex roofing element from a technical point of view, the correct execution of which largely determines not only the service life of the rafter system, but also the comfort of living in the building. If you do not have any personal experience in performing roofing and tin work, then it is better to use the services of professionals - mistakes cause big problems, and it takes a lot of time and money to fix them. In the most severe cases, you will have to make unscheduled repairs to the premises and rafter system.
There are a great many options for solving the problem of roof abutment; each professional craftsman makes changes taking into account specific features and his own skills. But there are several factors that have a critical impact on the technology of work.
The passage of the chimney through the roof - the main nuances of the arrangement
To cover roofs, soft roofing materials, profiled sheets, piece natural or artificial tiles, and asbestos concrete sheets are used. Each coating has its own nuances in the manufacture of junctions; for them, both standard components produced by coating manufacturers and home-made ones from galvanized steel sheets or rolled soft materials can be used.
| Roofing material | Minimum slope angle, degrees |
|---|---|
| Corrugated sheet | 20 |
| Ruberoid | 3-4 |
| Metal tiles | 25 |
| Asbestos cement slate | 20-35 |
| Ceramic, concrete tiles | 25 |
| Euroslate (ondulin) | 6 |
| Bituminous soft tiles | 11 |
Roofing materials - types and photos
Metal tiles
Depending on the architectural parameters, the roof can be flat, inclined, domed, etc. Depending on the type, the slope of the rafters, the type of base and sheathing for roofing materials, and the location of load-bearing structural elements change. All these features must be taken into account when choosing materials and technology for connecting the roof to the chimney pipe.
Chimneys are made of brick, concrete blocks, metal or asbestos-cement pipes. Structural differences affect not only the technology for carrying out adjoining work, but also the choice of materials. Additionally, during the manufacture of the junction, the location of the chimney must be taken into account.. If it is close to the ridge, then you need to use one technology; if it is closer to the drainpipes, then you should work taking this factor into account. This applies not only to the method of water drainage, but also to the materials used for sealing.
There is one more feature. Brick chimneys can have smooth side planes or with special steps for water drainage. Depending on the method of laying the chimney, a specific algorithm for making the roof connection is selected. Some types of brick chimneys do not require gating.
Work on waterproofing the junction can be carried out during the installation of the roof or after. There are ways to seal a chimney without the need to dismantle the installed coverings; all elements are laid on top of the existing roof.
For example, let's consider three options for making junctions on different types of roofing materials: brick chimneys on soft tiles and metal tiles, and round chimneys on the finished coating. These are the options that are most often encountered during the construction of private houses. The algorithm for performing the work allows you to perform it yourself without the involvement of expensive specialists. But only under one condition - you have experience in covering roofs, the necessary materials and tools.
Important! All work on roofs should be carried out only in good weather; the temperature cannot be lower than +5°C.
To create an abutment assembly you will need pliers, a medium-sized flat spatula, a mounting knife, a hammer, a screwdriver, scissors for cutting metal, a hair dryer, measuring tools and accessories. A mastic based on modified bitumen is used as a waterproofing agent; for the sealant, you can use a special mastic in a tube or any other material based on environmentally resistant polymers. If you have an air gun, great, it will be easier to work. If for some reason you do not have a special device, then the nails can be driven in by hand.
Practical advice! There is no need to buy expensive tools to make one or more connections. They are used only by professional builders on an ongoing basis.
The technology for installing flexible tiles involves installing a fillet, plinth, or 50x50 mm diagonally spread beam near the chimney. The elements are fixed to the sheathing, pressed tightly against the planes of the chimney and screwed in this position. A waterproofing layer (underlayment) is installed on top of the elements, and individual pieces are glued with bitumen. Chimneys made of piece masonry materials must be plastered, allowed to dry and primed with any bitumen-based material. It is advisable to install the junction unit simultaneously with the installation of the soft roof - this not only simplifies the work, but also guarantees tightness.
Underlay carpet
Step 1. Install the shingles in the usual manner until they meet the fillets. If one edge extends onto the surface of the element, it must be cut off with a mounting knife. Make a vertical cut along the corner of the chimney, and a horizontal cut along the bottom line of the fillet. To prevent damage to the underlayment when cutting soft tiles, always place a piece of plywood under the knife blade. Guide the tip of the knife exactly along the fold line of the roof. Cutting soft tiles is quite difficult; use strong and sharp knives.
Step 2. Additionally, seal all corners of the chimney with patches. How it's done?
It is recommended to seal the chimney passage unit using patterns from the remaining pieces of the valley carpet. In terms of its performance indicators, it better meets modern requirements. In extreme cases, it is allowed to use patterns from the lining carpet.
Step 3. Place a piece of carpet at the bottom of the chimney and mark it the width of the chimney. The length of the pattern must correspond to the sum of the height of the sealing on the chimney and the length of the material under the soft tiles. Practitioners recommend taking it with a reserve; a longer length will not cause problems for further work, but a too short pattern can cause leaks. Put it in place, bend it and use your finger to find the connection points of the fillet with the slope and the chimney. You need to cut the pattern at these points.
The height of the establishment beyond the vertical must take into account the climatic conditions of the location of the house and the maximum height of the snow cover, but be at least 30 cm, the establishment beyond the horizon - at least 20 cm. The length of the fillet must be added to these dimensions. The width of the pattern depends on the parameters of the pipe; the length of the side parts of the envelope is at least 20 cm.
Practical advice! If it is difficult for you to immediately make a pattern on the valley material, then prepare a template on thick paper. This will give you the opportunity to gain practical experience and avoid annoying mistakes in the future. You will find out in which places you need to make bends and which ones to cut off completely, you will see the optimal width of the hems, etc.
A more accurate pattern can be made on a flat surface, transferring the location of the points of the cutting lines and bends using a square and an ordinary nail.
Step 4. Carefully coat the back side of each pattern with special mastic, do not leave any gaps. Layer thickness is approximately 0.5–1.0 mm. Modern mastic will reliably glue the pattern to the chimney pipe, allow it to withstand wind loads, and prevent water from coming under protection.
Mastic for tiles
Patterns must be glued taking into account the direction of water flow. The front one is installed first; its lower part should cover the top of the shingles. All the water from the chimney will subsequently flow onto this element. Next, the side patterns are fixed; later they will be covered with the finishing coating. The last thing to cover is the back surface of the chimney.
Important! To improve the quality and reliability of gluing, professional roofers recommend using a hair dryer. All joints are carefully bent, heated and re-glued; due to this operation, adhesion between surfaces is significantly increased, the mastic hermetically covers the stone chips located on the material.
Step 5. Insert the upper metal strip into the chimney groove to fix the position of the pattern. The planks are sold complete with the roof; if you don’t have them, the elements can be made yourself from any galvanized and painted metal profile. The strips are fixed with dowels; they not only increase the tightness, but also eliminate the possibility of the patterns being torn off from the surface of the chimney.
Step 6. Carefully seal the junction of the strip with one-component polyurethane sealant. Try to fill the cracks to the full depth; remove excess with your finger.
After gluing all the parts to the chimney, you can continue laying the flexible tiles. The shingles are cut evenly at a distance of 5–8 cm, not reaching the lower edge of the fillet. The side cut of the tiles must be coated with mastic, the same operation must be done in all places where there is no self-adhesive layer. The edge of the cut shingles serves as a groove that directs rainwater in the desired direction. The last tiles to be laid are on the back side of the chimney, then work continues on the entire roof.
Initial data: chimney made of unplastered sand-lime brick; galvanized steel is used for the work.
Practical advice! For the connection, it is better to buy a standard sheet profile for the groove with dimensions of 15x23 cm, the width of the shelf for the groove is 2 cm, the width of the bend of the drainage grooves is 1.6 cm. The profile is galvanized, the zinc thickness is at least 20 microns.
Step 1. Place the profile against the pipe with the side on which there is a curved shelf for entering the groove. Using a construction marker, draw lines around the entire perimeter of the chimney.
Step 2. Using a grinder with a diamond blade, cut a groove at least 2 cm deep. Work carefully, try to make the cuts as even as possible.
Important! Follow safety precautions when working with a cylindrical grinder. Never remove the protective cover and wear glasses. Remember that the disk should rotate towards the worker, and not vice versa. If the direction of rotation is not observed, then during biting the tool will be thrown onto the worker, this can cause very serious injuries.
Step 3. First install the galvanized sheet from the bottom junction of the chimney and the base of the metal tile deck to the eaves. It will drain all the water around the perimeter of the pipe. The chimney can also be lined at the bottom; if this is difficult to do, then place it close to the brickwork.
The first element is galvanized sheet
Step 4. Place the bottom joint on top of this sheet. This order must be observed for any method of draining water from the chimney. When installing sheets along the perimeter, one sheet is folded under the other, which prevents moisture from entering the junction areas. How to take sheet dimensions and prepare a pattern?
This completes the cutting process.
Step 5. Place the cut piece in place, bend its side tabs so that they are pressed as tightly as possible against the surface of the pipe. To do this, you need to bend the profile shelves on the folded tabs, which are inserted into the groove. Make sure that the metal fits as tightly as possible to the surface of the chimney, and do not allow gaps to appear. The reason for their occurrence is incorrectly taken dimensions. If the gap does not exceed 2–3 mm, then there is nothing to worry about, just take into account errors in the future. If the gap is large, you will have to repeat the measurements and cutting the profile.
Step 6. Proceed to form the side junction. Align it with the bottom one, make similar markings for bending and cutting the sheet. Remove excess areas.
Step 7 Place the finished part against the pipe and secure with dowels. Dowels must have rubber gaskets for sealing.
Step 8 Carefully bend the protruding elements onto the lower part of the outlet, and use a wooden or metal hammer to press them together as firmly as possible.
Practical advice! Experienced roofers coat the joint line with sealant before bending. This operation does not take much time, and the reliability of sealing increases significantly. We recommend that all beginners use this technology; they do not yet have enough practical skills in working with metal sheets. As a result, the joints are uneven and water can flow into the cracks.
Install the connection on the opposite side of the chimney in the same way.
Step 9 Proceed with the installation of the closing upper abutment element. It is done according to the same principle as the first one. The only difference is that the bend angle of the profile must be reduced, and in the side bends at the angle of the roof, the upper part, rather than the lower part, must be cut off.
At this point, the fixation of the metal abutment elements is completed; proceed to filling the grooves with sealant. Make sure that the kinks along the edges of the metal sheets fulfill their function and direct the flow of water downward.
We have already mentioned that this is not the best construction option, but life often dictates its own rules, and you have to solve problems as they arise. Initial data: pitched roof with bitumen tiles, round chimney.
Step 1. Find the exact location of the chimney pipe exit on the roof. To do this, you need to attach a plumb line to the flooring, align it with the center of the stove pipe and make a mark. Drill a through hole according to the mark; working from the roof is much easier.
Step 2. Using a spatula, carefully pry up the shingles and unscrew the screws. If the soft roof is fixed with nails, then the work will become somewhat more complicated. Dismantle the roof using the same method; the dimensions of the freed section of the roof should be 30–40 cm larger than the diameter of the pipe. Carefully stack soft tiles in free space; all of them are reusable.
Step 3. Proceed with installation of the passage element at the chimney outlet; it must be fireproof and airtight. The elements are sold in specialized stores; it is much more profitable and reliable to use factory products than to invent various devices yourself. The kit includes a pass-through element made of high-strength polypropylene, heat-resistant rubber and a metal clamp.
Step 4. Cut a hole in the heat-resistant rubber to fit the diameter of the chimney. To facilitate work, rings with the indicated diameters are cast on the upper surface of the element. Pierce a small hole with a knife, and then you can cut it with scissors.
Step 5. There are special lines on the penetration that indicate different roof slopes. Find the mark with your slope and cut the hole. The plastic is very hard; use metal scissors for cutting. Due to this placement, the chimney will be in a vertical position.
Step 6. At the base of the roof, find a hole pointing to the center of the chimney, place the penetration on the solid sheathing and install it so that the centers are located on the same vertical line. Mark the diameter of the hole to be cut for the pipe, and use an electric jigsaw to cut out the slab.
Step 7 Place the passage element in place and secure it with self-tapping screws to the continuous sheathing.
Step 8 Install the chimney, put a rubber sealing casing on it. Pay attention to the location of the technological mark; it should face forward. Place the metal clamp and tighten it. There is no need to apply much effort, the rubber compresses easily, and too large loads can cut it. Assemble the chimney and install all the special elements on it.
A strip of lining layer is inserted into the gap
Step 10 Replace the shingles and trim off any excess. To guarantee, coat the joints with a high-quality compound.
Screwdrivers
This completes the installation work. To check the reliability of the seal, it is recommended to pour several buckets of water onto the roof.. If leaks are detected, they should be repaired immediately. Doing this in a timely manner is much more profitable than later dealing with unscheduled repairs to the rafter system or roof.
In addition to its classic technological functions, the chimney must also meet the aesthetic design of the room without disturbing the design, especially for interior spaces. Remember that the finishing of the chimney inside the house must be carried out not only from the ratio of beautiful material and appearance, but also remember about fire and building regulations.
As already written above, focus not only on your own design developments and “trends”, but also on the correct installation of this or that material, depending on the type of channel. After all, not every chimney is suitable for a beautiful and weighty stone or tile. Calculate the weight and overall load-bearing capacity of the structure. For example, for brick buildings, no serious problems should arise, but metal pipes, for which a weighty foundation or fastening is not provided, will not tolerate bulky cladding. Therefore, think twice before finishing your chimney.
The lining of your chimney can be made of a completely different material. But keep in mind that in addition to the cladding material itself, you will also need to manufacture a special casing, sheathing or duct for the chimney, in particular this applies to ceramic and metal structures. For example, for tin, light tiles of different fractions and dimensions are often used, depending on the structures themselves. As for brick structures, here, of course, preference is given to facing bricks, marble and tiles. Although in fact, the range of facing elements is huge. The most traditional for the entire existence of such structures was considered classical plaster, which can be performed for all types of channels, with some reservations regarding the purchased solution.
Cladding the stove and chimney with ceramic tiles
Lining a chimney inside a house can be done in one of the following ways:
Lining in this way is the most practical from the point of view of long-term operation of the channels. When using a chimney pipe, such materials withstand climatic temperature changes, exposure to precipitation, and the like. In addition, thanks to their high mechanical resistance, the tiles can be used not only inside, but even outside, namely on the caps, under the roof of a chimney on the roof.
Cladding the fireplace and chimney with clinker bricks
Plaster is more often used due to its relative cheapness and lack of demands. As a rule, they combine classic colors, choosing soft colors to match the design of the room. In addition, you can create a variety of patterns by combining colors. You can use plaster in the house without fear, but when using it outside, keep in mind the characteristics of the mixture. Not every solution is suitable for street cladding due to temperature conditions and mechanical wear.
Such material can be used without fear even outdoors; due to their natural origin, such elements can withstand all the pranks of the weather. In addition, they have a good margin of safety against mechanical damage. Perfectly combined on brick and ceramic pipes. Pay special attention to the solution or glue so that it is fire-resistant and can withstand high temperature changes if necessary.
This material gives the house an aristocratic appearance and allows its owner to distinguish his home from the gray and monotonous mass of other buildings. When using facing stone, pay special attention to caulking all seams, especially for interior finishing. But, wild stone is often used as a means of cladding on the outside, giving its natural and presentable appearance. In addition, the wear resistance threshold of such elements is also surprising.
Stone-lined chimney on the second floor.
This is a crumb where particles of small pebbles are mixed into a solution. Cladding, therefore, is only permissible inside buildings, since the crumb does not like exposure to cold temperatures. It goes well with fireplaces and traditional stoves, especially if the kitchen area is additionally finished with such chips, not to mention brick chimneys.
On sale it is a white powder, which must be dissolved in water when applied. If desired, you can add different colors, resulting in a rich selection of shades. Keep in mind that decorative cladding must be carried out on a pre-prepared base - plaster. After application (use a spatula), it is recommended to dry with a hairdryer.
