Raspberry bushes can give their owner aromatic berries that are rich in vitamins and valuable nutrients. It is useful to eat the fruits both fresh and in the form of jam and compotes. Gardeners prefer to plant this type of shrub on their site not only because of the valuable, aromatic berries, but also because such a plant does not require special care. It has long been noticed that the fruits will ripen even on plants that are simply abandoned, but the raspberry yield will be much reduced.
To get a really good harvest on your plot, you need to follow some recommendations provided by experts:
Choosing a place to plant raspberries in spring or fall is very important. If it is chosen correctly, the unpretentious plant will give an excellent harvest. And so without a transplant for ten years. Here are a few factors to consider when planting raspberries:
Raspberries should be planted in the spring in an area that will not be heavily moistened by the proximity of groundwater. The soil for shrubs should be loose, enriched with minerals and fertilizers. It’s a good idea to give the selected area a slight slope before planting so that moisture does not accumulate near the plant’s root system.
It is recommended to plant raspberries in spring in a well-lit area. The shrub will be able to take root in the shade, but will not provide a bountiful harvest of healthy berries. The selected planting site should not be located near buildings; raspberries should not be planted under garden trees. The repair plant, however, like the regular plant, can be destroyed by strong gusts of wind; specially constructed protection will help protect the plants, which should be prepared in the spring, before the seedlings are planted in open ground.
Raspberry bushes need space, so when planting between bushes you need to maintain a certain distance. And in order to prevent the growth of the plant, additional barriers should be made; garden sorrel can act as a natural hedge. Planted near a raspberry tree, it will not allow the plants to take over excess space, and the gardener will have homemade and healthy sorrel in his arsenal, which can be added to borscht and various salads.
Many gardeners are aware of the influence of plants planted nearby on each other. Often such interaction turns out to be beneficial for both plants, but it also happens that aggressor plants conquer the neighboring soil, suppressing and displacing their neighbor. 
In order to prevent such a picture in your garden, you should consider before planting what crop is growing nearby.
Basic rules of plant compatibility will help prevent a lot of inconvenience and trouble in the future, when the berry harvest is in jeopardy.
Raspberry is a shrub that instantly grows, conquering new area around itself year after year. Very often the following picture is observed: in the center of shrubs adjacent to the raspberry tree, for example, blackberries, raspberry shoots can be found the next year.
If you plant plants that limit the growth of raspberry bushes, many difficulties can be avoided.
The leader among plants that prevents the spread of raspberry trees is sorrel. Since the culture contains various types of acids at the root level, including, this factor serves as a limitation in the growth of raspberries. If sorrel is planted next to raspberries around the perimeter, the spread of its bushes will be noticeably reduced. The use of this method of limitation helps many gardeners cope with the growth of raspberries.
For experienced gardeners, a real boon in limiting the expansion of raspberries is a variety of weed - broom. Many gardeners eliminate it due to ignorance of the functions of the weed, which restricts the roots of raspberries. Metlitsa growing near raspberries protects them and has a beneficial effect. The weed takes deep roots into the soil, covers a dense path between the rows of the raspberry tree, and prevents the evaporation of moisture, which the raspberry, moisture-loving crop so needs. 
In order to limit and prevent the spread of raspberries throughout the entire area, and as is known, growth occurs in the southern direction, sheets of slate are dug in. Slate plates are buried in the soil along the perimeter of the bush, deepening it to the level of the roots of the bushes. But this method is dangerous because there is a high probability of damaging the roots or even destroying the bush.
From the video you will learn how to prevent raspberries from growing to the sides.
Ideal conditions are to grow raspberries in the garden separately, placing different varieties of raspberries on the plot, but there is often a shortage of free space. In these circumstances, you can plant the following berry bushes nearby: blackberries, as well as red, yellow, and black currants. 
The following shrubs feel good next to raspberry plantations: barberry, rose, juniper. Shrubs in such a neighborhood grow well and bear fruit.
However, this cannot be said about all bushes; strawberries are a bad neighbor to raspberries, unlike blackberries, since bushes are susceptible to the same diseases and pests. For the same reason, strawberries are not planted close to raspberries.
Dill feels great growing near a raspberry tree; its aroma attracts insects that pollinate the flowers of raspberry branches, which increases the yield of the bush.
Fruit trees: plum, apple, and pear are also considered suitable neighbors with raspberry bushes.
But their friendship with cherries does not work out, since the root system is at the same level, and the plants have a detrimental effect on each other, which manifests itself in the form of weakness of the bushes and low yields.
Raspberries are loved not only for their tasty and healthy fruits, they are simply “adored” by various insect pests. They cause a lot of trouble for gardeners and cause great harm to the plant: the yield is reduced, and sometimes the bush dies.
Insects are fought in different ways; shrubs are treated with various chemicals. There is another way: grow plants near raspberry plantations whose aroma repels pests from the bush. 
One of these varieties is considered to be red elderberry. Thanks to the high content of phytoncides, which spread in the air and drive away many types of insect pests.
Raspberries also protect the garlic aroma; it is for this reason that garlic can often be found near raspberry, blackberry, and strawberry bushes.
Less effective, but still useful, are considered crops that have a pronounced aroma: fern, peony, basil, celery, coriander, asters.
It will be very advisable to plant them near raspberry, blackberry, and currant bushes, so the plants will be beneficial in terms of protection from insects.
From the video you will learn what can and should be planted next to a raspberry tree, and what is undesirable or even dangerous.
griadki.com
How to prevent raspberries from spreading throughout the garden?
It is necessary not to leave raspberries to the mercy of fate, remembering them only during the harvest, but to take care of them at least throughout the season, if not all year round - in time to remove excess shoots and plants that are straying away from the garden bed.
In the fall, you first need to trim all the bushes, leave about 50 cm from the ground, and then dig up all the young trees with a shovel, leaving only the old fruit bushes. The dug up young plants can simply be replanted or thrown away as unnecessary.
I know only one way to deal with raspberry growth - this is to beat off the area with iron sheets or wooden boards, slate. You need to plant raspberries at the very end of the garden near the fence, negotiate with your neighbors so that they also plant raspberries near their fence. I don't know any other way to fight. Of course, you also need to cut the raspberries every year, thin them out, and remove old bushes. Now there are varieties of raspberries that produce few shoots; you can try growing this variety of raspberries. If you start a plantation, then it is very difficult to get rid of the raspberry shoots, their roots are long, strong and it is very difficult to dig up unnecessary bushes.
Oh, how they can do it! A neighbor in the country planted raspberries near the common boundary. So the next year, the first partisans appeared on our site near the boundaries. They chopped them off, uprooted them - it was as if they had tortured them at home. And next year, the raspberries sprouted already 3-4 steps from the boundary. The neighbor dug a trench half a meter deep and fenced the raspberries in the ground with sheets of slate - it helped for exactly a year, then the roots went around in some places, and in others they rammed the slate through the micro-slits.
The fact is that the raspberry bush grows not only above, but also underground:
And if in the first year the underground shoots grow at a shallow depth, then in the second year they dive deeper. And they can grow to the sides of the main plant at a distance of 3 meters or more.
When I was visiting/at my mother’s house, I noticed that there were no raspberries in the beds next to the bushes. When asked how she managed to cope, my mother showed: And here is an assistant. Mother surrounded the bushes sorrel frame. Yes, yes, that same sorrel,
from which green borscht, pies, etc.
Apparently, oxalic acid, found in the roots of this plant, changes the composition of the soil so that raspberry roots do not pass through the barrier.
However, I do not rule out that bioenergy is also involved here. Apparently, raspberries and sorrel are antagonists in the energetic sense.
Give it a try. The costs are small, but the benefits are double.
I didn’t have slate on hand, but I did have old sheet metal roofing that was no longer needed. This iron was dug around the perimeter of the raspberry tree. I made a ditch, placed iron there overlapping it so that the sheets would overlap each other about twenty centimeters, and covered the ditch with earth. Then I didn’t have any worries, everything was clean.
We have already written about slate in the answers. And we once dug in roofing felt, thus fencing off the raspberries from the beds. It was a long time ago. I remember that it helped, but still occasionally it made its way here and there.
And now digging and hand-picking raspberry sprouts helps. You just need not to be lazy when digging, but use a shovel to pry up the shoots and roots that are in the ground and pull them out. This is how raspberries grow in our corner and, in principle, do not interfere.
Raspberries have a huge amount of growth and if not limited, they will grow throughout the entire area. The root system is not deep, so gardeners dig fences in the form of boards or slate around the raspberry tree to a depth of 20-30 cm. The roots will not be able to crawl through such a barrier. In this case, you need to monitor and remove unnecessary growth inside the raspberry tree, because... it will shade the main plantings, which may result in a reduction in berry yield.
To prevent raspberries from spreading and would not increase the growing area, it is necessary to cut out little by little (young shoots) and dig around, choosing the root system.
This method allows you to control the area occupied by raspberries.
Destroying raspberries is as easy as shelling pears. You just need to dig up the soil around well. It is enough to dig deep in the fall and next year there will be practically no raspberry sprouts. In winter, the remaining roots will freeze. Those that do grow are very well removed while they are young.
The special structure of the raspberry root system determines its tendency to quickly spread beyond the boundaries of the garden bed. And if you miss the moment, the raspberry shoots will very quickly fill the entire space between the plots. So what to do if the raspberries have grown and how to prevent such a nuisance in the future?
In general, young raspberry shoots must be cut out regularly, because they not only obstruct access to the main plantings, but also pump out enormous amounts of nutrients from the soil. So as soon as you notice the first sprouts, immediately remove them using a sharpened shovel, burying it 6-8 centimeters into the soil.
In advanced cases, total simultaneous cutting of shoots can only worsen the situation: this, most likely, stimulates even more intensive development of raspberry shoots. Therefore, you should not try to restore order to the raspberry garden in one summer. It’s better to be patient and slowly dig up the brazen “young growth” over a couple of seasons.
But if there is still a need to clear the area of wild raspberries in one season, then get ready to work hard. To do this, dig up the clogged area, simultaneously and very carefully selecting all the roots of the persistent raspberry. Most likely, this work will need to be done two, or maybe even three times over the summer. Each time after digging is completed, I recommend covering the soil with a thick layer of fresh grass, compost or humus, throwing a black film on top and leaving the mulch for 2-3 weeks. After this, you should remove the film, rake the organic matter to the side and dig up the area again, removing all visible raspberry roots from the soil.
Well, and a completely cardinal technique in the fight against runaway raspberries is the use of continuous action herbicides like Roundup. The overgrown area is treated for the first time in mid-spring, as soon as the first leaves have opened, and repeated spraying is done after a month and a half. Just keep in mind that along with the raspberry shoots you will kill all other vegetation present in the treated area.
And in order to prevent further growth of the cultivated plantation, build a barrier along the perimeter of the rows, which the shoots will no longer be able to overcome. Any sufficiently wide and long pieces of slate, plastic, or sheet iron can serve as such a protective barrier. They need to be dug into the soil to a depth of at least 45-50 centimeters (raspberry roots lie at a depth of about 20-25 centimeters), while above its surface they can rise very slightly, only 10-15 centimeters.
By the way, raspberries will also not “run” around the site if you plant their seedlings in trenches, as described in this article, but with one small addition. Simply cover all the walls of the trench with any available insulating materials, for example, pieces of slate, roofing felt, thick film (NOT holey!). Since raspberry shoots arise from a depth of no more than 20-25 centimeters, it will be quite enough if the lower part of such a barrier goes into the ground to a depth of 28 to 30 centimeters. In this case, the feeding raspberry roots will be able to easily crawl under the barrier, the upper edge of which should rise above the soil by only 5-7 centimeters.
According to my observations, you can stop the unwanted spread of raspberries in the garden if you plant rows of winter garlic in the berry garden. For some reason, raspberry shoots are not able to break through such a barrier. And especially cunning gardeners solve the problem of raspberry growth by simply growing this crop in car tires (but this is a topic for a separate, more detailed article).
At the same time, you can use the property of raspberries to grow in different directions to your advantage. There is a simple technique that allows you not only to obtain excellent yields of this crop, but also to have plenty of seedlings for rejuvenating the raspberry tree (which, by the way, is a prerequisite for abundant fruiting from year to year).
So, let's take a step-by-step look at what the essence of this technology is:
Whatever method of dealing with unwanted raspberry shoots you choose, remember that this problem is much easier to prevent than to later break your back in the beds, trying to rein in the unruly scoundrel. In my case, it so happened that we placed a greenhouse near a fence, on the other side of which there are thickets of wild raspberries.
Despite the fact that there is a good meter from the greenhouse to the fence, I have to dig up the greenhouse soil every year with two shovels in order to select the raspberry roots that have penetrated into it. And this despite the fact that the greenhouse stands on a decent foundation 30-40 centimeters deep. Of course, it would be possible to destroy the raspberries behind the fence with Roundup, but I am still afraid that the substance will somehow get into the greenhouse and harm my favorite tomatoes. So we have to put up with such an unhappy state of affairs.
Although winter has only just arrived, in just a month the days will begin to gradually increase and it will only be a little while before spring knocks on our doors. In this regard, I recommend watching a video about the features of spring care for this crop.
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Tip one for caring for raspberries - trellis
Raspberries must be grown only on a trellis, this has been proven by the experience of millions.
When planted in even rows and staked and wired, your raspberries can produce 6-8 times as many berries each year and still give you the highest quality berries possible.
All your efforts are meaningless if your green factory (raspberry plant) is not able to show its natural benefits and drags out its existence like a wild raspberry.
Tip two for caring for raspberries - update
Raspberries cannot degenerate; biologically this is impossible. But there are many summer cottages where raspberries are neglected thickets, and weakened, diseased raspberry plants are called degenerate.
There are many examples when gardeners put “degenerating” raspberries in order and again received productive bushes with large berries.
It is necessary to re-mark the rows along the twine, hammer in pegs along the twine every 70 cm in the row, destroy everything unnecessary, the plants left in the right places should receive full care, and plant the necessary seedlings in the empty places (where there is nothing along the twine).
It is necessary to constantly replant new seedlings in each row every 70 cm, and eliminate all excess raspberry plants. It is necessary to strengthen the growth of the main shoots in the center of the bush and in a year or two good care will return your planting to the yield and quality of berries.
Tip three for caring for raspberries - narrow rows
The rows of raspberries should be narrow, up to 30 cm wide, and there should be free space between the bushes inside the row.
The reason for the failure is that raspberries are often grown in the form of a wide strip, where the plants you planted grow interspersed with a mass of plants from the shoots that have grown on their own.
The biology of raspberries is such that quite a lot of shoots always grow around the main plant. A raspberry bush is an overgrown seedling we planted and the growth around it. The shoots are also raspberries, no one plants them, but every year they grow on their own. For the main crop, raspberry shoots are a weed, and like any weed, you must constantly fight it. It is the shoots that take over more than 50% of all nutrients extracted and produced by the entire raspberry plant.
In practice, raspberry shoots are the enemy of raspberries, which themselves grow annually throughout the life of any raspberry planting. When shoots are not left on the raspberries, then all the main shoots of the raspberry bush are well illuminated by the sun from bottom to top, so the harvest on them is also located along the entire length of the shoot, and not just at the top of the shoot. The berries are well lit by the sun and blown by the wind, so they have much less fungal diseases and insects.
You always see all these advantages on your raspberry seedlings in the second year of life, when they cannot yet be thickened and produce a lot of berries along the entire shoot from bottom to top. You need to accustom yourself to the fact that you cannot have a large harvest if you do not constantly destroy the raspberry shoots. They destroy the shoots with a sharp shovel, cutting them at a depth of 3-5 cm in the ground.
If usually raspberries of the Kirzhach variety in a thickened planting form 6-8 berries on each fruit branch, then in a planting where shoots are regularly removed, 8-14 and even 18 berries are formed on each lateral.
In the absence of shoots, the root system works to enhance the development of shoots to replace the bush, the basis of the crop and its quality. The berries are larger, sweeter and better executed. Each fruit branch (lateral) produces more berries, and more laterals are formed on the shoot.
If we regularly remove shoots, then on the plantation of the Kirzhach variety, from the first to the last harvests, the berries hardly become smaller, their taste remains typically sweet, and even in rainy weather there is almost no rotting on the berries and they remain in good quality longer.
In addition to common failures, it’s worth remembering simple tips. Raspberry itself is a crop that has a large fan of leaves above the ground, and roots only 10-20 cm in the upper soil horizon. That is why frequent drying out of the soil greatly affects the “well-being” of the raspberry plant, and raspberry shoots that have experienced bad situations the next year produce only 8-10 branches with berries instead of 30-35. There seems to be no death of the bush, but there is almost no harvest. And then it is clear that this year’s harvest is very dependent on the living conditions of the shoot in the previous year, and therefore poor care of this year is the foundation for a poor harvest for next year. That's biology.
Advice about manure
The advice is very old and now, when there is almost no manure, it is necessary to try to give the raspberries all the compost from the garbage heap, from the heap of rotted weeds, from the possible import of peat or any organic matter. Neither the apple tree nor the currant are as depressed in the absence of organic matter as is evident in the case of raspberries. Under natural conditions, in the absence of organic matter in the field, raspberries do not grow at all, but grow on the edges of the forest with an abundance of rotted leaves and other material. The person seems to know everything, but this is not enough, you just need to withstand the natural requirements of raspberries and mulch the raspberry bushes with some kind of plant material.
Raspberries are spreading around the area
This is its biology; it may not be necessary to do something against nature. It’s not such a big problem to walk twice every year in May-June and cut off all the growth, wherever it appears, with a sharp shovel. It is not at all necessary to dig up every new shoot if you cut it close to the ground. If some gardeners dig in slate and metal sheets and say that their raspberries do not grow, then they have deprived themselves of a bountiful harvest and will, at best, have only a small part of the possible harvest of their raspberries.
Raspberries are one of the most favorite berry bushes among many Russian gardeners. It is so unpretentious and resistant to various surprises of nature that it can grow on a wide variety of soils and in almost any region of our country.
Disputes often arise among gardeners about when is the best time to plant raspberry seedlings. We can safely say that spring planting is much more profitable.
The bushes take root easily; during the warm season they manage to grow a powerful root system and even produce a sweet and juicy harvest. We invite you to learn more about the spring planting method, learn about the advantages and possible negative aspects.
Even an inexperienced gardener knows that raspberries love to grow along fences and hedges somewhere on the outskirts, but different varieties have their own characteristics and preferences.
For example, large-fruited and remontant species develop and bear fruit better in open areas with plenty of sunlight, and even a slight darkening can stop plant growth.
In any case, for raspberries you should choose the south side of the garden or building, where it will be reliably protected from draft and cold winds. An east-west direction would also be a good location, since the bushes will be well warmed up and illuminated during the day from all sides.
Experienced gardeners know one tip for choosing the right place for raspberries, it is as follows: watch where on the site, first of all, the snow melts and the soil warms up, this will be the best site for planting raspberries in a permanent place.
A very important point is compliance with crop rotation. If you already had raspberry bushes growing in a certain place, you should not resume planting young trees earlier than after four years.
Nightshade plants are also considered unfavorable predecessors. The best option for planting is considered to be soil that has rested for several years.
For a berry grower, the location of groundwater is a very important factor; if it is close to the surface of the earth, this can cause flooding and stagnation, which means root rot and other diseases.
So, when choosing a place to plant raspberries, the most illuminated and heated place is suitable.
The soil for raspberry seedlings must have good fertility, so it must be dug up with a shovel and filled with the necessary nutrients, namely humus, rotted manure, compost, and peat. Here everything will depend on what kind of structure your land has.
With the belt method, fertilizers are added during digging. The proportions correspond to two buckets of organic matter, peat, compost and 200 g of nitroammophoska, which can be replaced with any microfertilizer complexes.
If the planting method is nesting, in this case the pit is filled with all the components and mixed thoroughly.
For those who are skeptical about chemical fertilizers and mineral complexes, there is another way out: double the dose of organic matter and add 500 g of wood ash to it.
In this case, the organic fertilizer must be well rotted, since at high concentrations burns of plant roots can occur. To prevent this from happening, the pit is filled long before the raspberries are planted.
Mulch serves as a good assistant on the site and solves several important problems:
Note! Straw, peat, pine needles and small twigs are well suited for mulching, and the layer must be at least 10 cm thick.
Raspberries can be planted by root suckers, cuttings, and seeds.
So, there are two types of raspberry planting: trench and nest. Let's look at the features of each method.
This method is most often used by gardeners and gardeners. It does not require much space, and several seedlings can be planted in one “nest” planting hole at once. Nest planting consists of several stages:
Provided that the spring planting was carried out correctly in this way, you will be able to enjoy the berries already in the current season.
This method is an alternative to the nesting method and is used less often in summer cottages, but in industrial quantities raspberry fields are created this way. Trench planting of raspberries allows you to significantly increase fruiting from the bushes, but the labor costs with this method are much higher.
Offers you to familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions for this technique:
Thanks to such actions, the harvest is obtained already in the current season. The plantation grows quickly, but if the raspberries do not grow on their own, they are forced to produce side shoots. This is done by digging up bushes.
In order for young animals to quickly take root in a new place, there are special rules for caring for them.
Raspberries can be planted on a plot using two methods, and this is the desire of every individual gardener; the main thing is to fulfill the necessary requirements that were mentioned in this article. Then the raspberries will bear fruit well and delight you with sweet and large berries.
Video about planting raspberries in spring:
Raspberries can be found in almost every summer cottage or garden plot. This culture is not considered particularly capricious and whimsical. However, to obtain a good harvest of tasty and extremely healthy berries, it is necessary to properly care for the bush. The prerequisites for abundant and high-quality fruiting are laid at the stage of preparation, arrangement of the raspberry field and planting of seedlings.
Most berry bushes can be planted in the ground in autumn or spring. Raspberries are no exception in this regard. It is impossible to say unequivocally when exactly to plant young plants. Everything is determined by the characteristics of the local climate.
In warm southern regions, which are characterized by late and mild autumn, local gardeners prefer to plant raspberry bushes from late September to mid-October. At this time it is no longer hot. Before the cold weather, the seedlings have time to take root well; in the spring they will not need additional time for this and will immediately begin to actively grow. The first harvest can be expected in mid-summer. But there is always a risk of young plants freezing, since they are not yet strong enough.
In warm southern areas, raspberries are planted before winter
Only in the most extreme cases, when it was not possible to deal with the bushes in the fall, are they planted in the spring (late February or early March). Planting times are extremely short, since spring in the south is fast and hot, almost immediately turning into summer. Planted shrubs may not have enough moisture for normal development. They quickly throw away the buds without having time to properly form the root system. The survival rate of spring seedlings is significantly lower.
In regions with a cold continental climate, harsh and long winters that arrive early can destroy plantings, especially if there is little snow, so most gardening work is postponed to spring. After the snow cover has melted, when the positive temperature remains stable (not lower than +5...+7 °C) and the soil has warmed up sufficiently, planting material can be prepared. Raspberries are planted from the end of April until about mid-May, trying to catch them before the sap begins to flow and the buds open. Usually the ground is well saturated with melted snow water, but if the spring turns out to be hot and dry, then the raspberry tree needs to be watered regularly and abundantly.
In the northern regions, it is better to plant raspberries in the spring
In the middle zone, the specific time of planting is determined by the winter hardiness of the variety. Frost-resistant varieties can be safely planted in the fall. With less winter-hardy species, it is better to wait until spring warmth.
To organize a raspberry garden, you need to select open, well-lit places that are protected from strong gusty winds and drafts. The culture tolerates light openwork partial shade, but in some varieties the taste of the fruits is sharply reduced and the plants themselves are greatly retarded in development. It is not recommended to choose areas located on steep slopes or hills, since moisture is poorly retained there and the bush will suffer from its lack. Raspberries do not like excess moisture. It reacts extremely negatively to the proximity of groundwater. If the aquifer lies closer than 1 m to the surface of the earth, then the seedlings may die from lack of oxygen or from the appearance of rot on the roots.
Raspberries should be planted where the snow melts faster
It has been confirmed by the experience of more than one generation of gardeners that the ideal place to place raspberries is along the fence, and preferably on the south side. Areas near the walls of various outbuildings (bathhouse, barn, etc.) are suitable, since the buildings protect the bushes from cold northern winds. In these places, the snow should melt faster in the spring and the soil should warm up.
It is best to plant raspberries along the fence
On our site, raspberries grow in one row in the direction from west to east along the neighbor’s fence on the north side, but at some distance from it (about 1.5 m). The fence is made of corrugated sheets, which have a light gray protective coating and reflect light well. The raspberry bush does not lack light and feels great. The place turned out to be a little damp, but the bush was planted on a high ridge and was not in danger of stagnating moisture.
When organizing a raspberry garden, decisive importance is attached to proper soil preparation. The landing site must be carefully prepared and it is better to do this in advance. The earth needs to be dug up to a depth of at least 25–30 cm, and root shoots and rhizomatous plants must be selected. All manipulations are carried out in advance, at least 2-3 weeks before the expected planting day, so that the soil has already settled and compacted. When planting raspberries in spring, all preparatory work is carried out in the fall.
The place for planting raspberries must be prepared in advance.
Raspberries grow best on moisture-intensive, well-drained sandy loam and loamy fertile soils with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. If necessary, the soil is deoxidized by adding fluff lime or dolomite flour. Acidity is determined in specialized laboratories or at home using litmus paper (can be purchased at any gardening store).
When growing raspberries on sandy soils, you will have to regularly apply organic fertilizers (humus, manure, etc.) and water more often, since sandstones do not retain moisture well. You can make a cushion from a clay substrate at the bottom of a planting container or ditch. Peat soils are enriched with sand in advance (4 buckets per 1 m2). In heavy clay soils, it is recommended to equip a drainage layer of coarse crushed stone, stones or broken bricks.
Humus and fertilizers must be added to the hole or trench
It is advisable to treat the soil with insecticidal preparations to destroy the larvae of harmful insects (chafer beetle, wireworm, etc.).
Pits or trenches for planting are prepared as follows:
Organic matter (3–3.5 kg) or mineral fertilizers (saltpeter or urea - 15 g, superphosphate - 30 g, potassium salt - 10 g) are added to the hole under each bush. It is better to combine fertilizers by applying them together, but in half the dose.
It is extremely important to choose the right planting material. The health of the entire raspberry tree and its fruiting will depend on the quality of the seedlings.
It is very important to choose the right planting material
A good raspberry seedling should look healthy
Before transportation, the root system is wrapped in a wet cloth and placed in a plastic bag etc. Prolonged storage in polyethylene is unacceptable, since the delicate roots may begin to rot. Upon arrival at the site, the seedling must be buried immediately. The plant can be left in the air for more than a day, since raspberry roots are extremely sensitive to drying out. For better preservation, you can dip the root system in a clay mash. It is prepared from clay, which is diluted with water to the state of liquid sour cream, and a small amount of mullein is added.
Immediately before planting, the roots are moistened with water or briefly dipped in an earthen solution (½ bucket of fertile soil is filled to the top with water). If the seedlings were dug up quite a long time ago, then they need to be soaked in water for 5–6 hours, and then the root system should be treated with any root formation stimulant (Kornevin, Zircon, Epin, etc.).
You need to purchase planting material only from reliable suppliers with a good reputation. You shouldn’t be fooled by cheap prices and buy seedlings on the market from completely unfamiliar sellers.
Our neighbors have very good large and sweet raspberries. They dug up the shoots right in front of us and we immediately planted them in the right place. This option for purchasing seedlings is optimal; it guarantees the varietal purity of the planting material.
There are several different options for planting raspberry bushes.
The bush method is most often used by gardeners and summer residents; it involves planting raspberry bushes in holes. In this case, preliminary preparation of the site is not necessary; all fertilizers are applied directly at the time of planting. The method is convenient when there is no room for an extensive raspberry patch, but it is planned to plant several bushes in different places.
The bush method of planting raspberries is the most common
The sequence of work is as follows:
With the bush method, a raspberry seedling is planted in a hole
The option of landing in a trench is considered more labor-intensive and time-consuming. Most often it is used for industrial cultivation of berries in large volumes. Its main advantage is that the raspberry plant is fertilized evenly from the very beginning. Therefore, the quality of fruiting will be higher, the yield will increase several times.
Raspberries planted in trenches are fertilized more evenly
The planting process consists of the following steps:
A trench is dug according to the markings
It is more convenient to work together with a partner. One person holds the bush vertically by weight, and the other fills the trench with earth.
For areas with a small area, some gardeners practice planting raspberry bushes in various containers without a bottom. This can be a large plastic bottle (without a neck), a metal bucket or barrel, a spacious saucepan and other old containers with a diameter of 0.45–0.5 m and a height of at least 0.5–0.6 m. The container is buried in the ground, then filled with fertilized fertile soil mixture.
Planting raspberries in containers is especially suitable for small areas
The walls of the vessel prevent the uncontrolled growth of shoots. When watering and liquid fertilizing, the nutritious moisture remains inside and does not spread around.
An original and interesting option for the container planting method is planting in old car tires, which also prevent the raspberries from spreading beyond the designated area. Large diameter tires from a truck or tractor are better suited.
You need to proceed as follows:
Raspberries planted in old car tires look very original
The tire beads retain moisture during watering and prevent liquid fertilizers from spilling.
The raspberry bush looks like a kind of berry flowerbed.
There are never any problems with finding landing containers, since any car enthusiast always has this stuff in abundance. At every tire shop, the sufferer will be happy to be provided with old tires. The fact is that recycling used tires costs money, so specialists are not averse to saving a little and at the same time getting rid of the trash.
Planting with ribbons involves forming rows (strips) of raspberry bushes. With this method, individual plants are located closer to each other than with a bush method. They are placed at a distance of 0.3–0.5 m, while the row spacing is, on the contrary, made wider - 1.5–2.5 m. With such dense planting, the strips are filled with shoots faster and the onset of full fruiting is accelerated.
When planting in strips, raspberries leave very wide row spacings.
Unlike the trench method, the tapes are usually made wider (from 0.4 to 1 m). In a dug trench, seedlings are placed in several rows (3–4). The productivity of such strips is much higher, but it is also more difficult to care for them.
Some tall raspberry varieties can grow up to 3 m. To prevent branches from falling, they must be tied up. Shoots require reliable support, because they can break from the wind or under the weight of ripening fruits. Most often, the stems are fixed on a trellis; it is recommended to build it simultaneously with the organization of the raspberry tree. This must be done before the leaves bloom, otherwise you may accidentally break off the emerging sprouts.
Raspberry shoots need to be provided with reliable support
This is done like this:
Forming raspberries on a trellis allows the branches to be distributed evenly, while they are better illuminated by sunlight and well blown with air. Thickened and poorly ventilated plantings are more vulnerable to various fungal infections and are more often attacked by insect pests.
The trellis holds the shoots and prevents them from falling
There are other options for supports for raspberry bushes: stake - a support stake in the center and branches are tied around it, fan - the shoots are spread to the sides and fixed to posts dug in on both sides.
Each raspberry branch is tied to a wire
We built a double trellis on our site. To do this, 4 metal pipes 2 m high were driven into the corners of the raspberry tree, and intermediate supports were placed between them. Each middle post is equipped with three metal crossbars about 0.4 m long (at a height of 50, 100 and 150 cm), with a steel fixing wire stretched along their edges. The raspberry branches are placed between two triple horizontal rows of wire, which support them and prevent them from falling. There is no need to tie up each shoot separately.
The root system of raspberries is superficial and does not tolerate drying out at all, so the ground under the bushes must be mulched. This allows you to retain moisture in the root zone longer, reduce the intensity of watering and prevent the germination of a large number of weeds. Any plant residues are used as mulch: tops, mown grass, leaves, hay, sawdust, etc. However, over time, all organic matter decomposes and you have to add it again. Mulch can be washed away by rain and blown by wind.
The film retains moisture under the raspberry bushes and prevents weeds from growing
Recently, when planting raspberries, non-limiting mulching materials have begun to be used: plastic film or agrofabric. The point is that the prepared area of land is covered with a film, which is securely fixed around the entire perimeter (pegs, brackets, etc.). Holes are cut in the spread covering where raspberry bushes are planted. A similar technology is used when cultivating strawberries.
Mulching with film is often used when growing raspberries in large volumes.
Planting raspberries under film involves organizing a special drip irrigation system, which is mounted under the film covering.
Experienced raspberry growers call nettle the young shoots that form in abundance around the bushes in the spring. Shoots can appear at a considerable distance from the mother plant, it all depends on its age and variety.
Some varieties of raspberries are characterized by increased shoot formation.
Raspberry nettle is a young shoot near a bush
The nettle must be cut off from the feeding root, dug up with a lump of earth and, without allowing it to wilt, planted in a new place. With good watering and maintaining constant humidity, after 7–10 days the small seedlings will begin to grow. You can replant nettle with a piece of rhizome without a clod of soil. The top of the sprout is pinched and the leaves are cut in half, then dipped in a solution of a root formation stimulator. Plant green shoots in very moist soil (mud). At first, it is recommended to shade the seedlings.
A healthy mother bush can be propagated in several ways. The technology differs somewhat depending on the selected type of planting material and planting method.
The following materials are used for planting:
The seed method is the longest and is usually used only by experienced breeders. In this case, varietal qualities may not be preserved.
For sowing you will need fresh raspberry seeds
Sequencing:
Seeds can be obtained from your own berries or purchased at the store.
During the entire period of growing raspberry seedlings, it is necessary to carefully inspect the crops for the appearance of pests or signs of disease. As a preventive measure, it is recommended to harden seedlings in the fresh air.
Raspberry seeds are sown in a bowl with loose substrate
To increase germination, raspberry seeds are advised to be stratified. They are mixed with wet sand and poured into a linen bag. Store for 4 months at a temperature of +2...+4 °C in containers with sphagnum moss, periodically moistening (once every 2 weeks).
Propagation by cuttings is much faster.
A cutting is a small piece of rhizome or young branch that, under favorable conditions, develops into an independent separate plant.
Raspberries can be propagated from cuttings
There are several types of cuttings:
There are different ways to cut raspberries
At the end of spring and summer, raspberries are planted using green cuttings.
The technology is like this:
Green cuttings are cut from young raspberry shoots
Next year the young plants will produce their first harvest.
At the end of summer and beginning of autumn, young shoots become woody and acquire a dark brown tint. After the leaves fall, they can be used for propagation.
Lignified cuttings are harvested in the fall
The sequence of steps is as follows:
Raspberry cuttings are rooted in a nutrient solution
It is best to harvest root cuttings in autumn Yu. To do this, use the rhizomes of adult raspberry bushes, which are replanted or simply uprooted. Healthy, strong roots with a diameter of at least 3–5 mm are selected, and cuttings 12–15 cm long are cut from them. Then they are placed in a box with wet sand and stored in the cellar until spring.
Root cuttings are prepared from the rhizome of an adult raspberry
If harvesting is carried out in summer or spring, then the chopped pieces of roots can be planted in the ground immediately. They are placed in grooves 5–7 cm deep, sprinkled with soil and watered abundantly with water. When sprouts appear, the plants are transplanted.
There are a large number of dormant sprout buds on the roots of raspberries; it is this feature that underlies cuttings by parts of the rhizome.
It is easier and more reliable to propagate raspberries by shoots from roots, which already have their own formed root system and easily adapt to new conditions. When the root suckers reach 15–20 cm in height, they can be dug up and replanted. After just a couple of days, the small bushes take root well and continue to grow. Shoots with a height of more than 40–50 cm need to be shortened to 15–20 cm. This will stop the upward development of the shoots so that the root mass increases and dormant buds awaken. If this is not done, the stem will stretch in height, will not have time to produce replacement shoots and may die.
The simplest and most reliable method is to propagate raspberries by root suckers.
Autumn transplantation of root shoots is carried out with the expectation that they should have time to take root well before persistent frosts.
Propagation by root layering is the least troublesome and completely free method. On your plot, you can always dig up more than a dozen young, ready-made seedlings over the summer and provide them for yourself, all your neighbors and relatives. A minimum of effort is required.
Remontant varieties of raspberries can be planted at any time: both in autumn and spring. However, it is believed that autumn is preferable for this, since with the onset of warmth the bushes immediately begin to actively develop and will produce their first good harvest in the summer. When planted in spring, fruiting will be later and not very intense.
Remontant raspberries are more demanding and capricious in terms of illumination, as well as the degree of moisture. When grown even in light partial shade, the berries will ripen later and will not be as sweet. Insufficient watering will directly affect the size and quantity of fruits.
Remontant raspberries should be planted in a place well lit by the sun.
The landing rules are as follows:
Not having the appropriate knowledge at the right time, we planted remontant raspberries in the shade of a large apple tree. The berries on it are noticeably less tasty and sweet than those of ordinary raspberries growing nearby. Although the bushes are growing and developing well.
To plant raspberries over large areas, root suckers are used, which are specially grown in nurseries. To locate raspberry plantations, gentle, flat slopes are selected (slope no more than 5°), protected from the prevailing winds. But protective plantings should not shade the berry bushes.
Raspberries are grown on an industrial scale
Work is carried out in autumn or early spring. When plowing, fertilizers are applied to the ground at the rate of 1 hectare:
Planting is carried out using the belt method using special machines (SLN1 and SSHN3) according to the following scheme:
Then the young plantings are mulched with peat - 15–20 tons per 1 ha.
Planting raspberries is carried out using special planting units
Industrial cultivation of raspberries in our country is currently poorly developed. But during the Soviet Union, there were large raspberry fields in every fruit nursery. After the harvest, ordinary citizens were released onto the plantations, who could pick the remaining berries on the bushes and then buy them for next to nothing.
Correct agricultural technology does not always guarantee a good harvest. The fruitfulness of a berry garden is largely determined by its growing neighbors and companions. It is highly not recommended to place raspberries and strawberry beds in close proximity to each other. These crops have common diseases and pests, which they successfully share among themselves. In addition, the root systems lie at the same depth, which makes them competitors in the struggle for nutrients.
Raspberries feel bad and bear poor fruit next to cherries, even if they grow at a distance of 4–5 m. Currants and sea buckthorn impoverish raspberry plantings, taking away nutrition. Therefore, they are not good neighbors either. Raspberry bushes do not like to grow after tomatoes or potatoes; it is better to wait 2–3 years before planting in this place. Marigolds, nasturtium, radishes and parsley have a negative effect on the development of shrubs.
There are compatibility tables for various fruit and vegetable crops
The optimal location of a raspberry tree next to an apple tree, pear tree, plum tree, honeysuckle and barberry is considered optimal. Garlic, onions or red elderberries planted nearby will repel pests from raspberry plantations.
The best predecessors will be cereals or legumes. They will saturate the soil with nitrogen, and also make it looser and more nutritious.
Even the not very close location of raspberry and strawberry plantings has a negative impact on both crops. On our site they are located at a distance of about a meter from each other, and they adjoin in very small parts, almost only at the corners. In a damp summer, gray rot that appears on strawberries is instantly transmitted to the raspberry plant. As a result, we are left completely without berries.
Post-planting care consists of following a number of simple rules:
Raspberry seedlings need to be watered well after planting.
Folk remedies can be used for preventive treatment. An infusion of tansy (0.4 kg of dry inflorescences per 5 liters of water) and garlic (0.3–0.4 kg of crushed cloves per 10 liters of water) helps well.
Successful selection of a place for a raspberry plant, the correct soil preparation technology, healthy strong seedlings and strict adherence to planting rules are a guarantee of obtaining fruitful bushes that will delight you with abundant fruiting.
Vladimir Gennadievich.
We planted raspberries in the garden, but were already tired of removing new shoots. What can you plant next to raspberries to prevent them from growing?
One of the main difficulties that gardeners face when arranging a raspberry garden is the germination of young shoots outside the area allocated for the berry garden. Find out what to plant next to raspberries to prevent them from spreading from this article.
It is well known that it is best to plant raspberries separately from other garden crops, since they take all the moisture from the soil for themselves and also have a depressing effect, crowding out low-growing plants.
The root system of the raspberry bush consists of rhizomes and adventitious roots, representing a highly branched underground stem with buds, from which above-ground shoots then develop.
It is located superficially - 20-100 cm. The depth of the raspberry rhizome depends on the variety and type of soil:
But most of the root system is located in the arable layer at a depth of 10-50 cm. The branching radius of adventitious roots is up to 2 m.
The growth of adventitious roots in raspberries has a wave-like character, and depends on the humidity and warming of the soil. Gardeners have long noticed that the root system develops better at moderate temperatures, and shoots at elevated temperatures. If you use this feature of raspberries correctly, you can influence the intensity of its growth.
Raspberries displace and suppress low-growing plants
Constant mulching of plantings with leaves, peat, chopped weeds, straw, as well as the application of organic fertilizers allows maintaining an elevated temperature in the soil, which inhibits the growth of adventitious roots.
If, during planting, the raspberry tree along the perimeter was not limited by underground fences made of slate or sheet metal, then inevitably every gardener will face the problem of raspberry tree growth. And the more diligently the raspberry growth is removed, the more actively it grows, filling everything around.
In this situation, a well-known agrotechnical technique will come to the rescue, allowing you to control and manage the growth of raspberry bushes. By planting some types of plants along the raspberry plantings, you can prevent its growth. These include:
1. – herbaceous perennial, undemanding in care, preferring fertile loamy soils. Tannins and acids contained in the root system of the plant have a restraining effect on the raspberry root system. Thus, sorrel sown along the raspberry tree in 2-3 rows will help control its growth.
Attention! The width of sorrel plantings capable of restraining raspberries from growing should be at least 50 cm.
2. – grain or asparagus. The root system of this vegetable releases substances into the soil that inhibit the growth of raspberries. Beans - for this it is more convenient to use bush forms - should be planted around the perimeter of the raspberry field, thus creating a protective green fence.
Sorrel, thanks to the tannins it contains, inhibits the growth of raspberries
3. Metlitsa is an annual weed with a highly branched root that can have a restraining effect on raspberry plantings. Easily growing between raspberry rows, broom brings additional benefits by covering the soil and thereby preventing the evaporation of moisture from it.
Attention! Metlitsa, although it is a weed, has been in great demand recently in landscape design - it is often used as lawn grass.
The territorial limitation of garden plots forces gardeners to often plant crops in close proximity to each other.
Attention! Fulfilling the conditions of plant compatibility allows you to avoid the displacement of one crop by another, mutual oppression of neighbors, reduced yields and other unpleasant factors.
Next to raspberry fields, it is acceptable to arrange rose gardens, as well as planting barberries, elderberries and junipers. Their proximity has a positive effect on each other. Red elderberry growing close to the raspberry tree repels pests due to the release of certain phytoncides into the air.
Among fruit trees, raspberries will be a good neighbor:
Attention! The proximity of raspberries and apple trees is beneficial for both crops, since raspberries can protect the apple tree from scab, and the apple tree from botrytis.
Cherries will be a bad neighbor for raspberries. Under its influence, raspberries begin to wither, losing productivity. In addition, it is not recommended to plant sea buckthorn, currants and gooseberries next to raspberries. But raspberries feel good surrounded by beds of dill. Its aroma attracts beneficial flying insects, which can also pollinate raspberries, increasing their productivity. Other herbs and garden plants can be used for the same purpose:
Raspberries are one of most people's favorite summer berries. It is not surprising that this culture is often found in summer cottages or garden plots. A person who is far from gardening most likely imagines raspberry bushes growing in neat rows.
In reality, everything is different. The fact is that domesticated raspberries, as well as wild ones, annually produce several root shoots that grow not far from the mother shoot. Considering that the shoots appear from underground, it is simply impossible to predict where they will appear. The situation is complicated by the fact that usually not one, but several raspberry bushes are planted at once. In the absence of proper care, after one or two years, neat rows will turn into impenetrable thickets. That is why it is important to know how to plant raspberries so that they do not grow.
Measures against the growth of raspberry bushes must be taken before planting. First of all, you should dig a trench at least half a meter deep. Place fertile, well-fertilized soil at its bottom, the nutrients of which would be enough for several harvests.
The fertile layer is covered with ordinary garden soil. This is done so that the shoots growing from the main root would not be able to reach the fertilized soil, and therefore would not draw nutrients from it. Taking into account that the “offshoots” appear at a depth of no more than 25 cm, the proposed trench depth of half a meter is optimal. In this way, you can deprive the shoots of the necessary nutrition, which will make them weakened.
The second thing is to limit the area where the shoots spread. This is done very simply - barriers made of hard material (for example, slate, iron or plywood) about 30 cm high are installed on the sides of the prepared trench. The emerging sprouts will not be able to overcome the barrier, which will keep the beds neater. For watering and feeding raspberries, it is convenient if the sides protrude 5-7 cm from the ground.
Thus, the raspberries will continue to grow, but in a strictly defined area. In this case, the sprouts will be weaker and can be simply removed if necessary. Even a beginner can grow delicious berries, since planting raspberries to prevent them from growing is quite simple - the main thing is to follow the tips given.
westa14
Raspberries are unpretentious plants, and under favorable conditions they can grow freely in any abandoned garden.
Beginning gardeners are often concerned about how to plant raspberries so that they do not grow. Experienced gardeners recommend a fairly simple method for this.
Along the perimeter of the raspberry tree, approximately a meter away from its bushes, a slate barrier will be installed, cut into strips 500 - 550 mm wide. It can also be constructed from other materials, such as plywood or roofing felt. When installing the barrier, make sure that there are no holes or cracks in it. Root shoots can find any hole.
Since raspberry roots grow at a depth of approximately 350 mm, it is enough to lower the bottom of the barrier to a depth of 400 - 450 mm, and the root shoots will not be able to bypass it. At the same time, let its top above the ground to a height of no more than 80 - 100 mm. This will make it possible to make a small depression around the perimeter of the raspberry tree for convenient liquid feeding and watering.
