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» Reliable drainage system around the house: do-it-yourself device. Do-it-yourself drainage system around the house - nuances in detail Drainage system around the house

Reliable drainage system around the house: do-it-yourself device. Do-it-yourself drainage system around the house - nuances in detail Drainage system around the house

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If the site is located in an area of ​​frequent moisture accumulation, then a drainage system around the house is mandatory. A drainage device will allow the soil to dry around the perimeter. Constant exposure to water on load-bearing structures leads to rapid destruction, as the rate of reproduction of microorganisms and fungi increases sharply.

Preparing a trench for laying pipelines

Drainage system around the house: drainage device in two versions

Channels for water drainage can be laid in two main ways. With an open location, the aesthetic characteristics of the surrounding landscape are violated. Therefore, in most cases, they resort to constructing deep systems, when perforated pipelines are buried in the ground.

Related article:

Benefits of Open Networks

The advantages of systems with open channels for soil drainage are as follows:

  • the drainage is superficial and therefore does not require labor-intensive work;
  • when installing channels, no additional elements are needed, which avoids unnecessary costs;
  • The system is effective when used on clay soils.


Helpful information! Despite their positive qualities, open nets are best for drainage around a site. It is not recommended to install such systems near residential buildings due to their low aesthetic characteristics.

Advantages of deep networks

The main advantage of closed networks is the hidden installation of elements, that is, after some time after completion of the work, no traces remain. You can engage in landscape design without restrictions. However, such systems are poorly effective in the presence of clay soil located near the surface.


Constructing a ring drainage around the house with your own hands: how to make a reliable system

When installing a drainage system around a house with your own hands, a few meters are removed from the building. At the same time, closed storm sewer pipelines can be dug in to ensure the removal of precipitation from the surface of the roof covering and paths.

DIY deep drainage around the house

The process of constructing a closed moisture drainage network is very labor-intensive, as it involves laying pipelines in the ground and then burying them. For the work, it is necessary to purchase suitable perforated pipes and geotextiles to protect the surface of the elements from silting.


Note! If you are installing foundation drainage yourself on clay soils, you can additionally install point devices for collecting water.

Work to create open drainage around a residential building

Open systems are most effective at draining surface water that falls in the form of precipitation. They are ditches no more than 50 cm deep, located along a given trajectory. Trenches around the perimeter will spoil the appearance of the site, so decorating them is simply necessary.

Natural stones or brushwood are most often used as decoration materials. First, large cobblestones are laid at the bottom of the ditches to form channels for the passage of water. Then medium-sized stones or tree branches are laid.

This scheme creates an open drainage system around the house. A drainage device of this type is considered quite economical. During the work, no additional elements such as pipes or special membranes are used. The correct decor will allow the gutters to be successfully integrated into the overall landscape of the site.

Prices for turnkey drainage work around the house: ready-made option

Those developers who do not want to figure out how to properly make drainage around the house can hire professional workers. Many companies offer a wide range of services for creating various systems from design to implementation. The table shows prices for a complete list of works.

Table 1. Average cost of drainage work.

Additional services may be offered for drainage work. They will have to be paid separately. As a rule, companies offer the work presented in the table.

Table 2. Cost of additional services for drainage work.

Note! An agreement on the installation of drainage on the site should be concluded with those companies that provide a guarantee. The minimum period of its validity should not be less than 2-3 years.

The foundations of private houses require protection from excessive wetting, since precipitation and rising groundwater levels can lead to the destruction of monolithic foundations. In this regard, the question arises: how to properly make drainage around the house with your own hands. The opinion that with a blind area you can avoid excess moisture getting into the soil adjacent to the base is erroneous. Only the installation of a well-thought-out drainage system will protect the house without reference to the presence or absence of premises below ground level.

Installation of any type of drainage system around a residential building must necessarily begin with the design of all stages of work to create structures that facilitate the removal of excess moisture. To protect the foundation of the house and basements, the optimal solution would be to use wall drainage, which ensures complete removal of precipitation from the building.

If the groundwater is located quite high on the site, then the presence of waterproofing alone will in no way save you. In this case, sediment can be removed from the foundation of a residential building only by installing a well-thought-out drainage system.

If you approach the issue of creating an engineering structure in a comprehensive manner, you will need to complete the following scope of work:

  1. By using quality materials, produce foundation waterproofing.
  2. Install a system that can affect groundwater in terms of reducing its level ( drainage).
  3. Mount surface drainage at home.

Types of drainage

When choosing a specific engineering structure for installation around a residential building, it should be taken into account that there are several types of such systems.

Wall-mounted

This type of drainage is required to be installed if the house has basements and basements. Installation of a wall watercourse is carried out along the perimeter of the foundation, which is preferably done at the excavation stage when building a house.

This approach eliminates unnecessary excavation work, and this in turn reduces the cost of installing the system and reduces labor costs.

Direct laying of drainage is carried out along the perimeter of the base of the building with pipes leading from its corners to inspection wells. The lowest located part of the system should be used to construct an outlet well in this place, which, from a functional point of view, will play the role of a storage tank for atmospheric precipitation with its further removal beyond the territory of the site.

To ensure a greater level of security, it is advisable to install a so-called clay castle at a distance of one meter from the home.

Trench

If the house is located on soil that is saturated with clay and has no basements or basements, then a trench drainage system known as a ring drainage system can be used. Such a drainage channel is laid at a distance of 1.5-3 m from the building.

Here, as in the previous case, it is assumed that a clay castle will be installed, the location of which should be determined by the space between the foundation and the drainage system.

It is important that the depth of the drains corresponds to a level located 0.5 m below the deepest point of the foundation. The pipes are laid on a layer of material that does not impede the passage of water, for example, crushed stone.

When is the best time to install drainage?

The most suitable time for installing systems designed to drain precipitation from the house is considered to be the summer period, starting from the 15th of July and ending in mid-August. The choice of this time is explained extremely simply: due to the peak of summer heat falling during the designated period, the groundwater level decreases.

Although you should not relax in this case, since no one can exclude force majeure circumstances. Therefore, it is worth making sure that you have a pump with which you can quickly pump out precipitation. Still, digging trenches brings you closer to underground waters, but does not remove you in any way. I would not like the rather labor-intensive process of installing an engineering structure to have to be repeated again, since water in the trenches can cause trouble.

Drainage scheme

In practice, drainage systems such as trench and wall are used. The choice of a specific implementation option for the varieties under consideration largely depends on the following factors: soil type, terrain, etc.

Which is also called ring, finds its application in those areas where sandy soil is present. In structure, it is a closed system that accumulates atmospheric precipitation in a collector with its further discharge into ravines and various reservoirs. Such a system cannot be installed closer than 5 m from the house, since failure to comply with this requirement may cause soil shrinkage, and this in turn will negatively affect the condition of the foundation.

Wall drainage used in the presence of other conditions compared to the trench system. In particular, it is used on soils with a high clay content and characterized by high groundwater levels.

The main elements of wall drainage are drains, that is, perforated pipes. In addition, such a structure consists of wells that serve as water storage tanks and inspection pits necessary to monitor the functioning of the system at the pipe connections and at the turning points of the water pipeline.

Wall drainage of a country house is a system consisting of pipes and other elements, which is a closed structure, the location of which is determined by the perimeter of the building at a distance of half a meter from the walls of the building.

If the terrain of the area does not allow installing drainage around a private house so that water is removed from the collector naturally, care must be taken to install pumping equipment.

Installation of wall drainage

If you have a desire to arrange a drainage system yourself, then know that this work can be done by anyone. Therefore, feel free to correct mistakes made during the construction of a house, since it is advisable to install drains at the stage of construction of a particular structure.

To put your plans into practice, you should understand the basics of creating the type of system in question, and then dig trenches and lay pipes. Water conduits, known as drains, must be placed at a certain slope in relation to the storage well, which should be approximately 2 degrees, starting from the highest point of the drainage system.

If we translate this into centimeters and linear meters, it turns out that for each specified pipe length there should be a 2 cm reduction.

When laying cylindrical products without bends, inspection wells should be installed at a distance of no more than 40 m. If water pipelines are expected to have turns, then such wells should be located at a distance of no more than 25 m from those places where such bends are observed.

The pipes are installed to a depth of 30 to 50 cm from the reference point, which is installed at the level of the lower base of the foundation. In this case, one more condition must be observed: the depth of the drainage system cannot be higher than the depth of soil freezing.

At the same time, the blind area being constructed must be wide enough to prevent water from entering the soil located between the house and the drainage system. The blind area should be perceived as a layer of thermal insulation, which helps reduce the depth of soil freezing and protect water pipelines.

Foundation waterproofing

Before installing the drainage, some preliminary work should be carried out to protect the base from water penetration. To do this you will need to do the following:


  • apply geotextile fabric and then cover it with bitumen mastic;
  • use roofing felt, which implies the obligatory construction of a so-called pressure wall made of bricks;
  • apply sprayed waterproofing followed by its reinforcement with geotextiles.

Installation of drains

At this stage, you can begin installing water lines. Such a process involves quite labor-intensive work, including the following:

  1. Initially, you need to dig a trench to lay drainage pipes. The long ditch must be located at a distance of at least 1 meter from the foundation, provided that it is located lower than the foundation of the house. Since it is assumed that a 110 mm perforated polymer pipe will be used to lay the drainage, the width of the trench must correspond to it. The cylindrical product should not be laid close to the walls of the ditch, as this will not allow backfilling with soil properly. It is necessary that there is at least 10 cm of free space on each side of the pipe.
  2. The bottom of the trench must be leveled with a layer of sand 5 to 10 cm thick. At the same time, we should not forget that the bottom of the ditch must have a slope of 2 cm per 1 linear meter.
  3. It is necessary to lay geotextiles on the resulting sand layer so that the edges of the fabric touch the walls of the trench, where they need to be securely fastened.
  4. The next layer should be gravel - from 10 to 15 cm.
  5. Then you can proceed directly to the installation of drains installed with a slope in the direction of the well.
  6. Another layer of gravel of the same thickness as below is poured on top of the laid pipes, that is, from 10 to 15 cm.
  7. The top of the building material is covered with a geotextile sheet, the ends of which are secured.
  8. At the last drain, installed at a distance of at least 5 meters from the house, a water receiver is installed.
  9. The area under the sediment collection tank is lined with geotextiles that cover the bottom and walls. Then a plastic container is placed here, with holes made in the bottom, which is preferable to other solutions.
  10. A tank with openings must be firmly secured, since heaving forces can simply squeeze it out. At the last stage of work, this structure is necessarily covered with gravel and laid on top of a layer of soil.

Caring for the wall drainage system

For the full functioning of this type of artificially created watercourse, it should be regularly inspected at least once a month. This refers to control over wells that may become contaminated, which involves mandatory cleaning of them from debris.

In spring and autumn, these types of checks must be carried out more often, since during these periods of the year there is usually a lot of rain. In spring, snow melts, which provokes the appearance of large amounts of meltwater. Here it is already necessary to clean not only the drainage system itself, but also the storm sewer.

Drainage around the house is an effective way to protect building elements and outbuildings from moisture. The creation of such a drainage system is especially important if groundwater is located at a depth of less than 2.5 meters. This is also necessary if the residential structure is located on a site prone to seasonal or weather-related flooding. How to properly make drainage around the house with your own hands - step-by-step instructions. Installing a drainage system is not a difficult task, but to accurately organize it you need to follow simple rules.

With the help of special LightDrain drainage pipes, you can install the drainage system yourself. See the addresses of stores in Moscow and the Moscow region.

System Description

To effectively drain groundwater, rain and melt water, which not only destroys structural elements of a building, fills the basement and cellar, but also reduces the bearing capacity of the soil, there are several methods for constructing drainage. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, the decision on which type to choose and how best to make drainage around the house remains with the owner himself.

The design and location of the system for protecting against excess moisture is selected taking into account the terrain, the presence of buried rooms, the depth of groundwater, and the type of soil. By design, the following drainage systems are distinguished: backfill, open and closed.

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands

Depending on what area of ​​land needs to be drained, what type and what depth of drainage will be most effective, the location of the entire system is chosen. If necessary, eliminate the impact of water on the foundation and basements, create wall or ring drainage. The first type is appropriate if there is a basement or basement and is located in close proximity to the foundation walls. Trenches are dug around the perimeter, a perforated pipe is laid (below the basement floor level) and covered with crushed stone or gravel. The wall is fenced off with a layer of geotextile with one-way conductivity. Water from the ground does not reach the walls, but enters the drainage pipe and is discharged to a safe place.

For effective drainage, you need to know how to properly drain a site. To do this, the drainage system is located around the entire perimeter. The most labor-intensive, expensive, but also the most effective method is a closed system using plastic pipes. The price of such perforated pipes is affordable for any family budget. It perfectly removes excess water from the site, preventing mold from developing, destroying garden and vegetable plants, destroying load-bearing building elements and not spoiling the appearance of the house.

To create such a drainage, you need to perform several operations:

  • draw a diagram of the future system on paper indicating the dimensions and distance from the edge of the site, as well as taking into account the landscape design and location of plantings;
  • will mark future routes on the site itself using paint or sand;
  • with your own hands or using small equipment, dig trenches along marked routes (depth and width depend on the level of groundwater and the diameter of the pipes used, vary from 70 to 150 cm in depth and from 25 to 40 cm in width);
  • line the bottom and walls of the trench with geotextile (the material will significantly reduce clogging of the drainage and significantly increase the period of effective operation);
  • Apply a layer of sand (about 15 cm) to the bottom, and then a layer of crushed stone or gravel (about 20 cm);
  • using the device and the gravel layer, set the desired level of slope;
  • if the site area is large, it will be necessary to create inspection wells at a distance of 50 meters from each other in places where pipes bend or change the slope;
  • perforated pipes are laid (best with a filter element - fiberglass, coconut fiber, non-woven or needle-punched textiles) and connected to each other using fittings;
  • the most optimal diameter of the drainage pipe, ensuring good water drainage, is considered to be 110 mm;
  • the slope is checked again (can be easily done using a stretched rope), and it is necessary to create a uniform level, eliminating sagging of the pipe;
  • it is very important that the drainage system is below the soil freezing level;
  • the pipes are covered with crushed stone or gravel on top; the thickness of the layer should not reach the soil surface of about 15 cm;
  • Geotextiles are laid on the crushed stone layer and soil is filled.

There is no need to be afraid of increasing the cost of creating drainage: purchasing additional geotextiles and separating all layers from each other will only increase the efficiency and service life of the entire system. Following these simple instructions will allow you to install long-term water protection with your own hands and preserve your property and health throughout the entire life of your home.

Backfill design

The backfill drainage structure is a deep trench (below the upper groundwater level) filled with coarse gravel, crushed stone or other rubble material. The upper part of the trench is covered with a layer of turf, and to reduce swimming and silting of the passage space, the walls are laid with a layer of geotextile material. Such drainage is easy to create, low cost, long service life and no need for maintenance.

In addition, in its final form it does not disrupt the overall appearance of the site and does not introduce dissonance into the landscape design. The disadvantages include the low throughput of the water flow and the impossibility of cleaning the drainage channel if it is clogged.

Open type drainage device

The open option or surface drainage involves the creation of shallow open trenches (about 0.5 meters), through which rain and melt water is drained into special containers or discharged outside the site. To prevent swimming and destruction of the trench walls, plastic or metal trays are placed in them. Additional security is provided by the grilles placed on top.

How to properly make a closed drainage system

The most complex and labor-intensive type of drainage is the closed type. When organizing it, trenches are dug, a layer of gravel or coarse crushed stone is poured onto the bottom, and then perforated pipes are laid. From above, the entire structure is again covered with crushed stone or gravel and at the end a layer of soil is applied. To increase the efficiency of water drainage and reduce siltation, filter material (geotextile) is used on perforated pipes. The materials used for the manufacture of perforated pipes are steel, asbestos cement, and ceramics, but now almost all types have given way to plastic. Corrugated plastic pipes, which already have holes in their finished form, are long and easy to install, have become widespread.

When choosing any method of removing excess moisture, you should definitely take into account the slope of the drainage channels. For proper operation of the system, the level of inclination towards the outlet to an artificial or natural water intake must be at least 3° along one branch or 1 cm per linear meter. When deciding how to properly tilt the drainage, you can use the adjustment of the thickness of the gravel cushion.

Cost of installation work

Name of works

price, rub.

Installation of ring drainage around the house

With a depth of up to 1 m.

With a depth of up to 2 m.

With a depth of up to 3 m.

Collector well

Installation of wall drainage around the house

With a depth of up to 1 m.

With a depth of up to 2 m.

With a depth of up to 3 m.

Collector well

* The price indicated on the website is not a public offer (Article 435 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation) and is for informational purposes only.
Pricing also depends on the volume, distance of the object and other factors.

In a private house there are several places that need to be protected from getting wet from the outside. These are the foundation and buried buildings. Rainwater, all kinds of drains and rising groundwater gradually destroy the monolithic foundations and walls of basements. A properly equipped drainage system around the house can prevent this process from occurring. It is capable of removing excess moisture from structures. Even a very good blind area cannot compare in terms of protection for a house with a installed drainage system. It is highly recommended to install such a system near every house, regardless of the presence of a basement or ground floor.

Options for house drainage system

A high-quality drainage system around the house with your own hands can be made in several options:


Features of different foundation drainage systems

The choice of a specific type of drainage depends on the presence of buried rooms, the depth of groundwater, the composition of the soil on the site and the topography of the site itself. Let's consider what features the drainage system around the house has.

In total, there are 3 types of drainage, which differ in their location and design:


Important: Please note that reservoir drainage does not replace another type of drainage, but only complements it. Therefore, in addition to it, a main drainage system must be installed.

Please note that if you decide to make a ring drainage around the house with your own hands, the system should be located 0.5 m below the foundation level. This arrangement will ensure high-quality drainage of groundwater from the building at any time of the year.

Drainage installation

Let's look at how to make a drainage system around the house in two ways.

Manufacturing of wall drainage

Before carrying out the work, it is necessary to prepare the foundation, since the system will be directly adjacent to it.

To do this, the following work is carried out:

  1. The foundation from the outside is primed with a special bitumen primer.
  2. Bitumen mastic is applied to the dried surface.
  3. A reinforcing mesh with 2 x 2 mm cells is glued onto the mastic.
  4. The next day, after the mastic has hardened, a second layer of mastic is again applied to the mesh.

The photo shows the drainage system around the house - a trench and inspection wells along the edges

  • A collector well is installed to which drainage pipes will be connected. It is located at the lowest point on the site;
  • using a laser or building level, the slope of the trench running near the foundation is ensured towards the drainage basin;
  • the bottom of the trenches is covered with a layer of sand of at least 5 cm;
  • geotextiles are laid on the sand, the sides of which will subsequently be wrapped overlapping;
  • a gravel backfill is created having a thickness of about 10 cm;
  • Prepared perforated pipes are laid on the gravel layer. Their slope is ensured at 2 degrees;
  • pipes are joined with adapters and corner connectors;
  • at the corners of the building, all pipelines enter installed inspection wells;
  • Pipes are laid from inspection wells to drain water into a collection well or drainage pit. These pipes are also located in trenches and have a slope;
  • The pipes are filled with gravel (about 10 cm) and the entire contents are wrapped in geotextiles. Using synthetic ropes, geotextiles are firmly fixed;
  • further backfilling of the trenches to the soil level is carried out with sand or turf soil.

We looked at how to make drainage around a wall-type foundation. Next, we will pay attention to the manufacture of trench drainage, which is even more popular.

Manufacturing of ring drainage

For this type of work you will also need perforated pipes, crushed stone, sand and geotextiles. When a ring drainage system is made around a house, the technology involves digging trenches at a distance of 5-8 m from the foundation of the building to eliminate the possibility of subsidence of the soil around it. The trenches are located around the structure and form a closed system. The depth of the trenches should be such that the drainage passes 50 cm below the foundation level.

Immediately draw a trench (or several trenches) towards the main drainage well. The slope of the trenches is ensured at least 2-3 cm per linear meter. The slope can be adjusted by adding sand in the right places.

  • the bottom of the trenches is lined with a layer of sand, and then with geotextiles, the edges of which are wrapped on their walls;
  • crushed stone is poured onto the geotextile in a layer of 10 cm;
  • Pipes with holes drilled in them are laid out on the crushed stone. It is advisable to use a pipe diameter of at least 10 cm. It is advisable to first wrap all pipes with a layer of geotextile, which will prevent them from clogging;

Tip: Regular PVC pipes used for sewerage are quite suitable. You can drill holes of small diameter in them with a drill, arranging them in a certain order.

  • the slope of the pipes is checked, which must be at least 2 degrees;
  • At pipe bends, inspection wells are installed, covered with removable covers. The same wells should be installed on long straight sections, in increments of 12 m;
  • crushed stone or gravel is poured over the laid pipes in a layer of 20-30 cm;
  • the entire “pie” inside the trenches is wrapped with geotextile overlapping;
  • the remaining space in the trenches is filled with river sand and covered with turf.

Installation of drainage pipes in a trench

Features of drainage wells

Any drainage around a site or building must be constructed using several inspection wells located at pipe bends. It is in these places that drainage pipes become clogged most often. Through the inspection well, you can monitor the cleanliness of the drains and clean them if necessary. Wells can be purchased or made from any materials. They should have such a width that it is convenient to clean them by placing your hand there.

Inspection well

In addition to several inspection wells, at the lowest point of the site there is collector well, designed to collect all the water flowing through the channels. This is a wider and more voluminous structure, which can be concrete, plastic or metal. Its depth is chosen so that the pipes entering it are located at a considerable distance from the bottom. This makes it possible to periodically clean the well from sediments accumulated at its bottom and allows the well to fill with wastewater. From the collection tank, water can be pumped out by a pump or flow by gravity to designated areas.

By creating a drainage system around the house according to all the rules, you will get rid of the harmful effects of excessive dampness affecting the foundation and recessed areas of the house.

Video

The video will clearly demonstrate how to make drainage around the house with your own hands.

Owners of their own houses are well aware that installing drainage around the house is on the list of priority measures. It is very important to protect buildings from flooding, otherwise gradual wetting and destruction of the foundation, distortions of window frames and doorways, the appearance of cracks on the walls and many other troubles are inevitable. Despite all the apparent complexity of the work, it is quite possible to install the drainage system yourself.

What is drainage and why is it needed?

Drainage is a system that removes excess moisture from structures. Most often it is a structure made of pipes through which water leaves the site. Some believe that effective drainage will be ensured by a good blind area around the house and drainage will no longer be needed. However, experts strongly recommend installing a drainage system that can much better protect the building from excess moisture.

There are three types of drainage:

    • Open. Open ditches about half a meter deep and the same width are used as drains. The simplest option that is easy to do yourself. However, the trenches seriously spoil the appearance of the site; in addition, they quickly crumble and become unusable, so they are reinforced with various trays.
    • Zasypnoe. The dug ditches are filled with large crushed stone, rubble or broken bricks. The top is covered with turf. The undeniable advantage of the structure is durability, especially if geotextiles are used when installing the structure. The main disadvantages can be considered the lack of possibility of maintenance during operation and the relatively low throughput.

Closed. Drainage is carried out using perforated pipes laid in the ground. The system is very effective, without the disadvantages of the two previous options, but it is quite complicated to set up.

Open drainage trenches are reinforced with special trays and covered with gratings

Main types of drainage structures

When thinking about how to make drainage around the house, you need to know that there are several types of such systems.

Wall drainage

The structure is mounted around the foundation and is considered mandatory if the building has basements and basements. It is best to begin installing the system during the construction of the foundation, at a time when the foundation pit has not yet been filled. Otherwise, excavation work will have to be carried out again, which will lead to additional labor costs and financial investments. Drainage is laid along the base of the building, pipes are led from the corners to inspection wells. At the lowest point of the structure, an outlet well is installed, from which water is pumped out or diverted outside the site. To further protect the foundation, a clay castle is installed at a distance of about a meter from the house.

The arrangement of wall drainage is best carried out during the construction of the foundation

Ring or trench system

This option is laid at some distance from the foundation with a deviation of about 1.5-3 m from it. It is advisable to use such a structure if the building does not have technical undergrounds, plinths and basements or if it is located on loamy and clayey soils. A clay castle is also installed between the foundation and the system. To effectively protect the building from excess moisture, drainage is laid 0.5 m deeper than the lowest point of the foundation. It is assumed that the drains will be laid on a layer that easily allows water to pass through, for example, crushed stone.

Preparing for installation

Before you start arranging drainage, you need to prepare the foundation:

  • We treat the outer part of the base with a bitumen-kerosene primer;
  • apply bitumen mastic on top;
  • We place a plaster-painting or reinforced mesh with 2x2 mm cells into the wet bitumen;
  • To close the mesh after the mastic has dried, about a day later, apply another layer of coating.

Rules for setting up the system

The basis for the construction are special drainage pipes. Most often these are plastic parts with a diameter of 75 to 100 mm with perforations applied to them. If it is not possible to purchase them, you can take ordinary sewer pipes of the required diameter and drill holes in them. In this case, you need to take into account the size of the gravel in which the part will be laid; it must be larger than the diameter of the holes being drilled.

Practice shows that it is quite possible to arrange the drainage of a house with your own hands. In this case, the following requirements must be met:

    • The perforated pipe is covered with gravel to a depth of approximately 0.3 m. To prevent clogging of the system, parts wrapped in filter material are used or geotextiles are laid.
    • If the structure passes under the road along which traffic moves, metal pipes are installed in this area, connected by tightly fitting couplings to the rest of the system.
    • For unhindered cleaning and maintenance of the structure, inspection wells are installed at the main nodal points (at bends, at intersections of parts) and every 10-12 m on straight sections.

Water from the system is discharged into a drain or sump, the simplest version of which is a regular welded box with a metal grate.

The drainage system is installed at a slope to the water discharge point

Instructions for laying drains

Experts advise starting the arrangement of the system by drawing up a site plan. Even the simplest plan will help determine the optimal location of pipes and calculate the amount of materials needed. Installation of the structure is carried out in stages:

    • We mark the site in accordance with the completed plan.
    • We dig trenches of the required depth. Their width should be sufficient to fit the pipe and crushed stone inside.
    • We will organize the slope of the drainage system. We measure the height differences and place poles at the required points. Carefully add sand to the bottom of the trenches until the desired bottom slope is formed.
    • The bottom of the ditch is lined with geotextile, on top of which a layer of gravel is laid. Be sure to follow the chosen slope. We prepare a small recess necessary for laying pipes.
    • We place the perforated parts on the prepared place and connect them securely. Be sure to check the slope of the pipeline. This can be done using a cord or rope stretched along the trench.
    • We install inspection wells.
    • If the filter material is not attached to the laid pipes, we wrap them in geotextiles and secure them with polypropylene tape or twine.
    • We fill the system with washed gravel in a layer about 20 cm wide.
    • We wrap the filter layer with a geotextile fabric previously laid in the ditch, making a large overlap.

We finally fill the system with coarse river sand.

The drainage pipe together with the filter layer is wrapped in geotextile

Inspection and collection wells

Experience shows that the “correct” manhole guarantees effective drainage around the house. The device is intended for maintenance and periodic cleaning of the system, without which it quickly becomes clogged and becomes completely unusable. You can buy a ready-made element in a store or make it yourself from a piece of plastic pipe of a suitable diameter. The well must be large enough for a person to reach into it to clean the structure.

A well is installed at the lowest point of the system to collect water. You can also purchase it in a store or do it yourself. Welded and reinforced concrete structures are very common. The latter can be made from rings or cast with your own hands. In any case, the depth of the well must be sufficient so that sand and earth settling to the bottom do not interfere with the free flow of water. The sediment is periodically cleaned out.

An example of self-made storage well

A properly executed drainage system around the building will protect it from excessive moisture, which can cause many problems. Professionals can easily handle this work, but if you wish, you can do it yourself. A pleasant result of the efforts spent will be a cozy home, reliably protected from the harmful effects of groundwater.