Conditions for construction are rarely ideal. Many developers have to deal with groundwater levels close to the soil surface. And if the situation is complicated by a large amount of clay in the soil, then you can’t even dream of a dry basement: it will have to withstand significant pressure from the forces of inevitable heaving. The foundation with high groundwater is built according to rules that minimize this unfavorable factor.
The most difficult conditions are those when groundwater is located at the freezing point of the soil. In this case, the base of the base cannot be deepened properly and is located directly above the groundwater level. But even in this case, there is a way out: they arrange it, the cushion of which is a shock absorber of soil movements during its seasonal heaving. The type of foundation is chosen depending on the weight of the building and other parameters. “Floating” you can build a monolithic slab, a strip, or a columnar base. But the best option for marshy soils is a foundation on screw piles.
For concrete, the most destructive thing is not so much the groundwater itself, but the various salt solutions and other chemical compounds present in its composition. The complex of these components provokes the destruction of concrete through a certain substance, in the language of builders its name sounds like “cement bacillus”.
Its effect can be detected visually: the foundation delaminates and a light, loose coating resembling gypsum appears on it. In addition, mold and mildew, yellowish blurry spots, and a damp smell may occur in the immediate vicinity of the concrete monolith.
If the groundwater level is high, difficulties begin to arise at the stage of pit construction. Its bottom erodes and loses density, the bearing capacity of the soil becomes extremely low. If the base is installed directly on it, subsidence and destruction of concrete are inevitable. Therefore, in conditions of groundwater lying close to the soil surface, it is also necessary to divert water to the nearest reservoir, storage well or city communications.
The main danger when building a house on a site with a high groundwater level is ascending suffusion - the washing out of the mineral components of the soil.
As a result, it loses stability and its load-bearing capacity decreases. Therefore, without the complex of soil drainage work required under these conditions, the construction of even a light building becomes impossible.
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Foundation wall drainage diagram.
A strip or slab of concrete begins to be laid in a semi-liquid mud composition, having first pumped out the main amount of water. Such a foundation has a low load-bearing capacity, the reasons for which are:
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This is one of the most convenient ways for a private developer to drain pits and. This is done using a pump that pumps out excess groundwater. But ignorance of the technology of this process can lead to unacceptable consequences. The rules of work are as follows:
Important: trickles of water breaking through from the depths, carrying particles of soil to the surface and depositing influxes like lava at a volcano crater, are the first signs of ascending suffusion. Moreover, the mass of removed soil particles should continuously increase. The soil acquires the ability to slide at the most unexpected times. Therefore, water drainage is immediately stopped, and its level must be increased until signs of suffusion disappear. For more complex problems, recommendations from a soil drainage professional are required.
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If the soil at a construction site is clayey, during excavation work it behaves like quicksand. This makes it difficult to prepare the hole in which the foundation will be installed. Therefore, it is necessary to deepen the drains and arrange storage and receiving wells. That is, make a drainage system that should include not only a set of pipes that drain groundwater from the foundation and buildings, but also from the site.
To do this, reclamation ditches are dug around it. A well-built network of such trenches perfectly reduces groundwater level. The principle of its operation is as follows: the liquid begins to accumulate in it, since it does not encounter soil resistance along its path. The walls of the trenches are reinforced with wooden or metal shields, thereby preventing landslides. But you can also fill ditches with gravel or crushed stone. However, such a system in some cases of too high groundwater level is irrational and requires drains to be laid in trenches.
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The construction of a foundation on groundwater requires preliminary drainage of the site. Unlike a stormwater system, the depth of the pipes here is much greater. The work rules are as follows:
Determine the type of soil:
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One of the dangers with high groundwater level is the high content of sulfates dissolved in water. They are capable of destroying concrete, loosening it. Therefore, in such construction conditions, it is recommended to use sulfate-resistant Portland cement to prepare the cement-sand mortar. This is necessary regardless of which foundation is chosen. This component of the concrete mixture does not contain substances that can react chemically with the salts and other aggressive components contained in the liquid.
If the groundwater level is below the freezing point of the soil, but this distance is less than 1.5 m, then laying the foundation on sandy loam and sandy soils is carried out at a depth of 0.7-1 m. If the site has loam, then at the calculated freezing point or below it by 20-30 cm. The latter is also true for cases where the GWL and TPG (soil freezing point) coincide. In conditions of heavy soil (wet clay), you need to do the following: make the base thicker than the foundation itself, and make its walls with a slight slope. This design has significantly better resistance to lateral soil pressure that occurs during soil heaving.
In the absence of a centralized water supply, the water sources are underground interstratal waters. For free access to water, a shaft well is usually installed on the site. If the technology is followed, it gives good water, is durable and easy to use. One of the important conditions for the correct placement of a water source on the site is maintaining the optimal distance from the well to the septic tank, other wells and other structures.
Proper placement of a well on a site is a difficult engineering task that is underestimated by inexperienced owners of country houses. In order for the operation of water supply and sewerage systems to be problem-free, it is necessary to understand even before starting work that there are rules and regulations, non-compliance with which will lead to problems in the future.
When building a well, you need to determine its expected depth and number of rings. If the site is new and construction has not yet begun, the search for water should begin by examining the sources used by the neighbors.
To find it, you need to know the following information:
If there are no neighbors, the task becomes more complicated. Then it is recommended to use one of the methods for determining the water source. The most popular of them:
None of them will give a 100% guarantee of data accuracy. However, you should know that it can be carried out at a certain distance from water supplies in neighboring areas. Otherwise, the water from them may simply go into newly formed wells. In addition, this method is quite expensive and is more suitable for undeveloped areas.
Careful selection of location is a prerequisite for creating a reliable and high-quality source of water supply. This approach will eliminate the risk of receiving water that does not meet sanitary standards. When choosing a location, they are guided by the following criteria:
The problem of the location of a well on a site is especially relevant for owners of small plots. The structure should be as convenient as possible. To do this, it is positioned so that it is possible to easily organize the supply of water to buildings on the site, such as a house or a bathhouse, as well as to a vegetable garden. Usually, the highest place on the site is chosen for the well; it should not be allowed that the cesspools of neighbors are located higher in the terrain.
Find out what a pumping station for a well is.
In addition, the impact of the mine on the neighboring building should be taken into account. For a well, choose a place closer to the house. This is due to the peculiarities of organizing water supply: supplying water to a house over long distances is an expensive pleasure. Wells can even be built inside a house. Usually, they first build a shaft for the well, and then dig a pit for the foundation. In this case, the type of soil and topographic conditions of the site should be taken into account.
It’s another matter when the house is already ready, but the well is only in the plans. Houses on shallow foundations may suffer from the proximity of well shafts. You should not install wells in close proximity to such buildings. Shallow strip foundations on clay are especially dangerous in this regard. Here it is worth considering the depth of the well. Shallow mines are more troublesome for buildings. Water can wash away the foundation.
Wells can be located at a distance of at least 3 m from the foundations of buildings. This norm is prescribed in SNiP 30-02-97.
The minimum distance to buildings for keeping animals is 4 m, other buildings – 1 m, trees – 4 m, bushes – 1 m.
The installation of local water supply on the site must be carried out according to the project. If it clearly states how many and what structures will be required for the system, then many questions will disappear by themselves. The documentation must also indicate the exact distances from well to well.
The technology for drilling water wells is described.
Owners of country houses often build a water supply system with their own hands, without drawing up a project. Therefore, we need instructions that will tell you how to calculate the location of the wells.
When creating a home water supply, one well is not enough; additional tanks are needed. They are necessary for maintaining the network, as well as eliminating emergency situations.
The number of shafts and tanks depends on:
The best and simplest option is one inspection well. It is suitable for areas where the drinking well is located as close as possible to the house. It is located at the entrance of the pipeline into the building.
How to choose a pump for a well will tell you.
Calculations are made taking into account the fact that external pipe routing is carried out 20 cm from the wall. If the diameter of the well is 1 meter, then the distance from its axis to the wall will be at least 70 cm. 
The situation becomes more complicated when the source of drinking water is significantly distant from the house. In this case, it will be necessary to construct several inspection tanks. The maximum distance between water supply wells is 15 m. For sewer inspection structures, this norm is no different.
Check out the dimensions of concrete rings for wells.
If it is necessary to change the direction of the pipeline, construct a rotary well. The connection of all nodes must be as precise as possible. Blockages occur in these places more often than others.
In areas with height differences, it is necessary to change the depth of the pipes. For this purpose, a differential structure is built. The entire water supply system is laid at an angle to the well.
The distances from this structure to other components of the water supply system are regulated solely by the terrain features of the site. To optimize maintenance costs and save money on the device, both auxiliary structures can be combined with inspection wells.
In order for the water supply to fulfill its function, it is necessary to maintain distances from sources of pollution to the well with drinking water and between the elements of the sewerage system of the site. These standards are prescribed in SNiP 2.04.03-85. In this case, structures are taken into account not only on one’s own site, but also on neighboring ones.
Water structures need to be built as far as possible from landfills, industrial facilities, septic tanks, sewers and other sources of pollution. The minimum distance from the source of drinking water to wells with drains and cesspools is 50 m, buildings for livestock farms is 30 m. The distance from the septic tank to residential premises is 7 m.
Installing a sewer system in a country house is not a difficult task. And it is quite within the power of any skilled person. The simplest system consists of a septic tank and a pipeline. All pipes and pits require constant monitoring, so additional sewer wells are built. They, just like in the water supply system, are divided into the following types:
The principles of their construction are practically no different from water wells. The minimum distance between such technical structures is 15 m. If the system is limited to one pipe, then the distance can increase to 50 m.
It is possible that you will find information about .
Before starting work, you need to think carefully about the wiring diagram and the installation location of the wells. Having a ready-made plan will reduce the cost of installing sewerage and water supply on the site.
The video shows an example of improper placement of a well:
To minimize the risk of receiving poor quality water, you need to carefully select the location for creating an autonomous source of water supply. A well is a capital structure; it is built for a long period of time. If it fails, it is almost impossible to move it to another place. And failure to comply with the standards regarding the distance of communications to other objects on the site can lead to the failure of the entire water supply and sewerage system.
Hello!
I decided to build a new house next to the old one, followed by demolition of the latter. It turns out that on the site of the future house there were wells, which are located 0.5-1 m from each other (Both collapsed at one time and two holes remained). The water, according to the “old people,” is deep (the wells were 10-12 m long, and wells in the area are now being drilled 20-30 m deep). The house is supposed to be 10 by 10 m, one-story. The pits are located in the center of the proposed house. The house will be reinforced concrete monolithic with insulation, the ceilings will be wooden. But most likely you need an internal load-bearing wall in the middle of the house (right in the place of the wells). I would not want to change the position of the future house. Please tell me:
1. What to do with the wells (maybe they should be filled and compacted in a special way)?
2. Is it even possible to build on such a place? What are the consequences?
3. In what cases is an additional “fifth” wall necessary?
Thank you in advance!
Hello. Let's start answering from the end:
In this case, in addition to the outer walls, a central one is erected, which will serve as an additional support point for the ceiling or roof. In your case, with the dimensions of the house being 10x10 m, the presence of a central load-bearing wall seems justified. This is too long a distance for wooden beams. Finding a ten-meter beam of a suitable cross-section is not easy and the deflection will be large.
You can build wooden trusses, but they will take up a lot of space and be more expensive. Prefabricated reinforced concrete floors, although they can cover spans of up to 12 meters, are very expensive with a length of more than 7.2 m. In addition, if the house is made of stone, it will be convenient to place ventilation ducts and chimneys in the central wall: they will exit onto the roof close to the ridge, which will ensure optimal draft.
The soil needs to be compacted as much as possible; more on this below, in point 1. It is unlikely that this can be done perfectly. The possibility of a drawdown, albeit small, will still remain. Therefore, the foundation structure on which the wall will rest in the area above the wells should be a beam.
We do not know the possible loads from the wall, nor the length of the section above the fill soil. Let us give extremely general advice: the foundation strip in this place should be at least 60 cm high, cast from strong concrete and reinforced. For a width of 40 cm, we recommend placing four rods in one row, for a total of three rows. The minimum cross-section of the reinforcement for the top row is 10 mm, the middle and bottom is at least 12 mm. The reinforcement should be placed above the filled-in wells and placed on stronger soil, at least 60 cm in each direction. We repeat, this is the minimum for a one-story house, a wall made of hollow bricks and a span of approximately 2.5 m long. You should make a decision on the site, taking into account the specific situation.
But, since your wells have already collapsed, there is no point in digging them back up and, as expected, compacting the soil layer by layer. The easiest and most affordable way to compact bulk soil is to pour water. The soil should be shed with a large amount of water - the longer, the better. It would be good to lower hoses into the holes for a couple of weeks and pour soil around the clock, gradually adding it. We recommend filling the upper 20-30 cm with crushed stone and compacting it with a tamper, mechanical or manual.
By the way, it is unlikely that you will build a house from monolithic reinforced concrete. Probably just the foundation. Perhaps by the expression “the house will be reinforced concrete monolithic with insulation” you meant the construction of walls in foam formwork, the so-called “Warm House” system. Not the best option, by the way, for your own home. Although not very expensive.
Even if the house has a centralized water supply, a well will not be superfluous: it is too expensive to water the garden or flower beds with tap water, and in case of a power outage it will be very useful. At the dacha, this is generally the main and only source of life-giving moisture. So its value is difficult to overestimate. Building a well with your own hands is not easy, but it is possible. Even if you decide to hire a crew (physically difficult), you will need to supervise them. Not everyone does it the right way. More often, as it is easier and faster. So you need to know how it should be.
The most reliable way is to order hydrogeological studies. You will get the exact location where you need to dig with an analysis of the water that will be there. But this service is not cheap and is worth it if you plan to use the water for drinking, that is, near your permanent home. At the dacha, you need it mostly for technical needs, and before drinking water, you can only clean the part that goes into the house.
If you do not order research, be guided by several signs at once:
All these methods are only ways to roughly determine where aquifers may lie. None of them gives guarantees, but if as a result of several methods you get a more or less specific place, it makes sense to try to dig a well here.
You probably know that rock layers are completely uneven, just like aquifers. If your neighbors have water at a distance of 6 meters, this does not mean that you will have it exactly there. It may be higher or lower, or it may go sharply somewhere to the side. So this is only an approximate “sighting” on the ground.
The aquifer can lie at different levels
This method is suitable if the area has not yet been plowed. You examine the “local” vegetation, identifying islands of characteristic grass. Not single plants (they can be accidentally introduced), but islands, clearings, etc.
Plants indicating the depth of the aquifer
The best predictors are small midges. In the warm season, in calm weather, in the evening, before sunset, look at the site. If there are places where midges “hang” in columns, most likely there is water in this place, and quite close.
Midges hover in places where the water comes closest
To verify this, you can observe this place in the morning. If the water is really close, there will be fog swirling around here.
By the “concentration” of fog you can determine where the water is closest
We find a clay vessel. Preferably not glazed. But it’s hard to find one now, so any jug or pot will do. Not even this? You can also use a regular pan, just a wide one.
Oven-dried silica gel is poured into the dishes. You don’t have it, don’t know where to get it? Take ceramic bricks, break them into fine crumbs (not flour, but crumbs), and dry them in the oven for a couple of hours. Fill the container to the top, tie it with a dry cotton rag. Just so that it doesn't come undone. Weigh and write down the result.
In the expected location/locations of water, dig a hole 1-1.5 meters deep, place a pan in it and cover it with earth. Leave it for a day. Then you dig it up and weigh it again. The more the mass has changed, the more water there is in a given place (or closer to the surface it is located).
There are two periods when it is best to dig a well: the second half of August and the middle of winter - after two weeks of frost. At this time, the groundwater level is at its lowest and there is almost no high water. So it will be easy to work and you will not miss the determination of the flow rate - at this time it is minimal and you will not have to suffer from a lack of water in detail.
Winter and late summer are the best times to dig wells
If a team works, they can do it in a few days: two or three, sometimes more. If you plan to work alone, you may not have enough time in August. This is the “border” zone - before the rains. Then we need to start work earlier. Maybe since the beginning of August. At this time, there is already little high water, and by the middle of the month (even if you work alone in the evenings) you will already be near the aquifer. In general, try to time it so that the exit to the aquifer occurs at the most “waterless” time. It is also advisable to complete the waterproofing of the walls.
If you have decided on the location, all that remains is to choose what kind of mine you will make your mine. You can only dig a mine well, and you can drill an Abyssinian well. The technology here is completely different, so what follows will be about the mine well.
The most common one today is a well made of concrete rings. Common - because it's the easiest way. But it has serious drawbacks: the joints are not at all airtight and through them rain and melt water enters the water, and with it what is dissolved in it and what has drowned.
Disadvantage of a well made of rings and logs
Of course, they try to seal the joints of the rings, but the methods that will be effective cannot be used: the water must be suitable at least for irrigation. But simply covering the connections with a solution is very short-lived and ineffective. The cracks are constantly increasing, and then through them not only rain or melt water enters, but also animals, insects, worms, etc.
There are rings with a lock. Between them, they say, you can lay rubber gaskets that will ensure tightness. There are rings with locks, but they are more expensive. But gaskets are practically never found, as are wells with them.
The log mine also suffers from the same “disease,” only there are even more cracks. Yes, that's what our grandfathers did. But, firstly, they had no other way, and secondly, they didn’t use so much chemicals in the fields.
From this point of view, a mine made of monolithic concrete is better. It is cast right on site using removable formwork. They poured out the ring, buried it, put up the formwork again, stuck in reinforcement, and poured another one. We waited until the concrete “set”, removed the formwork again, and started digging.
Removable formwork for a monolithic concrete well
The process is going very slowly. This is the main drawback. Otherwise there are only positives. Firstly, it turns out very cheap. The costs are only for two galvanized sheets, and then for cement, sand, water (proportions 1: 3: 0.6). It's much cheaper than rings. Secondly, it is hermetically sealed. No seams. Filling occurs approximately once a day and due to the uneven upper edge the result is almost a monolith. Just before pouring the next ring, scrape off the surface of the raised and almost set cement laitance (a gray dense film).
According to the technology, the soil is removed inside the ring and under it. As a result, under its own weight, it settles. This is the soil that you take out and will serve as a guide.
As a rule, water lies between two waterproof layers. Most often it is clay or limestone. The aquifer is usually sand. It can be small, like seaweed, or large interspersed with small pebbles. Often there are several such layers. As the sand goes, it means water will appear soon. Once it appears at the bottom, you need to dig for some more time, removing the already wet soil. If the water is coming actively, you can stop there. The aquifer may not be very large, so there is a risk of going through it. Then you'll have to dig until the next one. The deeper the water will be cleaner, but how much deeper is unknown.
Next, the well is pumped - a submersible pump is inserted and the water is pumped out. This cleans it, deepening it a little, and also determines its flow rate. If the rate at which the water rises suits you, you can stop there. If it’s not enough, you need to quickly go through this layer. With the pump running, they continue to remove soil until they pass through this layer. Then they dig until the next water carrier.
Bottom filter device for a well
If you are satisfied with the speed of incoming water and its quality, you can make a bottom filter. These are three layers of cameos of different fractions, which are laid on the bottom. They are needed to ensure that as little silt and sand gets into the water as possible. In order for the bottom filter for a well to work, the stones must be laid out correctly:
With this arrangement of fractions, the water will be cleaner: first, the largest inclusions settle on large stones, then, as you move up, smaller and smaller ones.
There are two technologies used to dig a well. Both methods are used, just at different depths. And both have their drawbacks.
The first ring is placed on the ground, which is gradually removed from the inside and under the side. Gradually the ring lowers. There is a very important point here: you need to make sure that it goes straight down, without distortions. Otherwise, the shaft will turn out to be inclined and, sooner or later, the settlement of the rings will stop.
To avoid skewing, it is necessary to control the verticality of the walls. This is done by tying a plumb line to a block and placing it on a ring. Additionally, you can control it at the top level.
Tools needed for digging a well
When the upper edge of the ring is level with the ground level, roll the next one. It is placed strictly on top. The work continues. If on the first ring the soil can be thrown over the side with a shovel with a shortened handle, then on the next ones you have to remove it using a gate or a tripod and a block. In this way, at least two people must work, and at least three, or even four, are needed to move the rings. So it is impossible to dig a well yourself, with one hand. Unless you can adapt a winch.
So, gradually, the depth of the well increases. When the ring is lowered to the ground level, a new one is placed on it. To descend, use driven brackets or ladders (more correctly, brackets).
The advantages of this method of digging a well:
These are all advantages. Now about the cons. Working inside the ring is inconvenient and physically difficult. Therefore, using this method, they dig mainly to a shallow depth - 7-8 meters. Moreover, they work in the mine in turns.
The structure of the “knife” for easier penetration of soil when digging wells
One more point: when digging a log with rings, you can speed up the subsidence process and facilitate the passage of soil using a knife. It is made of concrete and is poured into the ground at the very beginning. To form it, dig a groove in a circle. In cross-section it has a triangular shape (see picture). Its inner diameter coincides with the inner diameter of the rings used, the outer diameter is slightly larger. After the concrete has gained strength, a “standard” one is placed on this ring and work begins.
First, a shaft without rings is dug. At the same time, they watch the walls. At the first signs of shedding, they place rings inside and continue to deepen using the first method.
If the soil does not crumble along its entire length, when it reaches the aquifer, they stop. Using a crane or manipulator, rings are placed into the shaft. Then, they deepen it a couple more rings using the first method, increasing the flow rate.
First they dig a mine down to the aquifer, then they put rings in it
The technique for excavating soil is the same here: as long as the depth allows, it is simply thrown out with a shovel. Then they put up a tripod and a gate and lift it in buckets. After installing the rings, the gap between the walls of the shaft and the ring is filled up and compacted. The top few rings can be sealed from the outside (with bitumen impregnation, for example, or other coating waterproofing).
When working, control of the verticality of the walls is also necessary, but it can be adjusted within certain limits. The control method is similar - a plumb line tied to a block and lowered into the shaft.
Advantages of this method:
There are more disadvantages:
If you think you dug a well and that's the end of it, not at all. You still have a series of daily exercises to do. You can do them yourself, without any help. First you need to waterproof the walls from the outside, then clean and wash the walls from the inside and pump out the water - clean the well.
After the well is dug, it takes a couple of days for the rings to settle and take their places. At this time, nothing needs to be done inside, but you can do external waterproofing.
If the well was made using the second method - first they dug a shaft, then installed the rings - this stage is a little simpler. You will need to widen the gap slightly to make a waterproof seal. If the rings were installed right away, you will have to dig a decent ditch around. At least until the middle of the second ring. When the soil has been removed, we proceed to waterproofing.
It is best to use a coating. You can use bitumen mastic, you can use other compounds. In principle, you can fuse or glue roll waterproofing, or in the worst case scenario, wrap it in film. Film is the cheapest, but it will last no more than two years, and only if you buy it expensive and reinforced.
Waterproofing, on top of which insulation is laid (foam shell)
Since you dug a well anyway, insulate it. You may not be at your dacha in winter for now, but maybe later the cold weather will come. So make sure you have water in advance.
A couple of days after the well has been dug and the glass has sunk, you go down inside with a broom and sweep the walls. Then you wash the walls: you pour them on them and sweep them with a clean broom. Douse it again, then with a broom. The water was pumped out and drained away. The next day the procedure was repeated. So - five, seven, ten days. Until the inside and water become clean.
One more thing. Not all teams immediately coat the joints of the rings. Then after the first cleaning you need to coat the joints with a solution (cement:sand in a ratio of 1:3). To improve the effect, you can add PVA or liquid glass (instead of some of the water, or dilute the PVA with water). It is also advisable to ensure against horizontal shifts of the rings. Especially if they don't have locks. To do this, adjacent rings are fastened with metal plates, which are attached to anchors. This measure is strictly necessary on unstable loose or highly heaving soils.
Connecting rings with metal (preferably stainless steel) plates
After the walls are washed, the water is pumped several times, you can use the water. But to prevent anything from attacking inside, it is necessary to close it. Read about how to make a house for a well here.
For some of the features of digging wells and cleaning them, watch the video.
Digging a well (with your own hands or with a team) is hard and dangerous work, especially after the first three rings have been dug. The buckets have to be pulled out with a winch, a winch or a block, but it is heavy. It may break - or the rope or handle may not hold up. Therefore, it is necessary to comply with safety rules:
Believe me, precautions are not unnecessary. Better to play it safe.
We dug using the first method - immediately put rings. Three people worked, taking turns: no one stayed inside longer than “one ring.” This is all the details in a nutshell. The rest is as we go along.
First, they brought the rings and laid them out on the site. A knife was assembled from specially shaped wooden planks.
Rings for a well on the site
This is what knife boards look like
It turned out to be a ring, according to the size of which they began to dig around the chosen place.
In the background lies a wooden knife for digging a well with rings
They dig strictly according to the size of the knife
The first concrete ring is laid on this ring. At first, the soil was only discarded - as long as the depth allowed.
The first one is ready
We installed the second one, sealed the seams inside and outside, and went on digging.
Second ring installed
When the second one went level with the ground, we set up a tripod with a winch and a block. So they lifted and lowered the digger and buckets of rock.
The tripod is placed before installing the third ring
Now: one is digging, the second is “twisting” on the winch, the third is dumping the soil. The same winch was used to lower the well into the shaft.
Go))
They buried the sixth ring and after that water appeared. If you look at the soil, it looks like this: black soil, sand, clay, aquifer. This means that the layer where water flows is separated by clay that is poorly conductive. This is very good - the water should be good, as it turned out later.
Glimpses of water are visible
After this, three more rings are installed. One is left for the end of August, when the water is lower, we will lower the well another meter. Then the procedure is standard - wash the walls, pump out the water. So six times - seven times. Afterwards, we saddled the head on the well and installed all the stuffing - the gate, pulled out the cable from the house, and installed the socket. The plans are to bring water into the house.
This is what a well looks like “in a house”
