Evergreen shrubs with leathery lanceolate leaves arranged in groups of 3-4 or opposite. Flowers at the top of the shoots in semi-umbrellas, pink, red, yellow and white. Distributed in subtropical regions of the Mediterranean to East Asia. There are 3 species in the genus. Valuable ornamental plants. The sap released by plants in pruning or cutting cuttings is poisonous.
Lightingoleander: Oleander is light-loving. Choose a sunny place for it; shading is not required.
Wateringoleander: Abundant in summer, moderate in winter, but taking into account the temperature in the room, for example, when keeping oleander in a room with a temperature in the range of 8-10 ° C in winter, water the plant very rarely, only preventing the earthen coma from completely drying out. If the plant is left to overwinter in a warm room, then water it moderately, just like other indoor plants in winter. Oleander is picky about water hardness, so water it with settled, soft water.
Reproductionoleander: Stem cuttings in spring or summer, which are rooted in damp sand or water. As well as seeds and layerings.
Air humidity: Oleander is regularly sprayed, especially when kept indoors near central heating in winter.
Transferoleander: Young oleanders are replanted annually, old tub plants after 2-3 years. Soil - 4 parts heavy turf and 2 parts leaf soil, 2 parts rotted manure or greenhouse soil with the addition of 1 part sand. It is better to make drainage in a pot or tub. During transplantation, you can partially trim the roots of large tub plants.
Top dressingoleander: During the growth period from April to August, every two weeks the oleander is fed with special complex fertilizers for indoor plants. You can use “Rainbow”, “Ideal”, “Giant”, etc. Oleander also responds well to organic fertilizers, for example, mullein solution.
Trimmingoleander: in spring or after flowering, cut back half or 2/3 of strong shoots and remove weak shoots. Weakly branching plants can be pruned to a height of 25 cm.
Scale insects: brown plaques on the surface of leaves and stems, suck out cell sap. The leaves lose color, turn pale, dry out and fall off.
Control measures. To mechanically clean pests, the leaves are wiped with a soapy sponge. Then spray the plant with 0.15% Actellik solution (1-2 ml per liter of water).
Spider mite: Cobwebs appear in the internodes on the stems, whitish grains can be seen on the back of the leaves - mite excrement, oleander leaves become lethargic and fall off.
Control measures. Wipe the plant with a soapy sponge and wash it under a hot (up to 50°C) shower. Spray regularly. In case of very severe damage, spray with a 0.15% Actellik solution (1-2 ml per liter of water).
Mealybugs: They affect leaves, shoots, and, if present, flowers. You can see small whitish cotton balls on the plant - the secretions of mealybugs. The leaves become bent, dry out and fall off, and the plant dies.
Control measures. Wipe the plant with a soapy sponge and wash under a warm shower. Spray regularly. In case of very severe damage, the plant can be sprayed with a 0.15% Actellik solution (1-2 ml per liter of water).
Keeping oleander does not require special conditions or special care operations. In the warm season, the plant needs daily abundant watering. Spraying should be carried out at least once a day, on hot days - twice (morning and evening). It is enough to apply mineral and organic fertilizers once a month. To improve flowering, overgrown shoots of the plant must be pruned regularly. The best time for this is late autumn or early spring. In this case, old, weak, dry branches should be removed. In winter, oleander cannot be kept warm; it is best to take it to a bright, cool room and reduce watering. Young plants need annual replanting; more mature ones need to be replanted once every two to three years. To plant oleander, you need to prepare a soil mixture of four parts turf, two parts leaf soil, two parts humus soil and one part sand. It is best to use split clay shards as a drainage layer.
Oleander is an actively branching, beautifully flowering shrub. Despite its evergreen status, a small amount of oleander foliage still turns yellow and falls off in the fall. This is how nature intended it. The plant updates its lush “wardrobe” from time to time. If the bush does not lose its fresh, healthy appearance, there is nothing to worry about.
In general, pests and diseases of oleander rarely bother them. This is usually a consequence of improper plant care. Oleander is not such a whimsical sissy. Still, don't relax. Dangerous pests of oleander: spider mites, mealybugs, scale insects, the bacterium Pseudomonas tonelliana - are always ready to attack. These tiny, barely noticeable villains are capable of causing him great harm.
The internodes are covered with a thin, dirty cobweb, the oleander leaves droop lifelessly. Spraying with water and increased watering cannot restore their elasticity. Crown growth is minimal. White grains are scattered on the back of the leaves. If urgent measures are not taken, the grains collect in whitish spots and then merge into a continuous powdery coating. The leaves dry out and fall off. The petals of withered flowers dry out and turn brown.
Spider mites especially often infect plants in the summer, when air humidity is at a minimum and temperatures reach record highs. However, in winter, when the heating in apartments is constantly hot, the conditions for spider mites are no worse than in the hot summer.
How to get rid of spider mites?
First, we don’t panic and urgently eliminate errors in the maintenance of oleander. Secondly, we begin an intensive fight against the pest. In the initial stage of the disease, there is still hope to save the plant by daily spraying and washing the foci of infection with a soap solution. If this hope is not justified, we spray the oleander with one of the preparations: Actellik, Wertimer, Fitoverm. To forget about spider mites forever, repeat spraying at least twice more. The optimal interval between treatments is 7-10 days.
A small (3-6 mm), hairy, shapeless, whitish-curdled, harmful insect. The monster reproduces quickly, especially in the autumn and spring. But it is easy to detect and begin treatment on time. Sticky, unpleasant clusters of hairy “fleas” are localized on oleander buds and in the axils of young leaves, actively sucking the juice from them. Flower buds dry out without opening, leaves become smaller, become deformed and dry out.
The mealybug prefers rooms that are infrequently ventilated; the air in them stagnates. Ideal when the room is damp and cool.
Methods for controlling mealybugs
There are many of them, but they all require complex processing, time and patience. Treatment will not be quick. Mechanical cleaning of pests and sticky deposits (with soap solution) cannot be carried out without insects getting into the soil. After such cleaning, it is necessary to water the soil with calendula tincture or horsetail tincture. You will have to repeat spilling the soil and spraying the oleander (every 7-10 days) until the plant is completely cured. Transplanting an infected bush into new soil will have a good effect if the roots of the plant are thoroughly washed and the pot is sterilized.
Some gardeners advise giving the oleander a hot shower, since the mealybug does not tolerate high temperatures. There are other folk methods. In my opinion, they are all labor-intensive, and their results are questionable. I prefer to use chemicals to combat this complex pest: Aktara, Calypso, Confidant, Fitoferm, Actellik - spilling soil in a flowerpot and spraying the crown.
Small tubercles appear on the oleander trunk, usually near the ground. They remind me of apple scab. You can pick off the tubercle with your fingernail, it will be crushed and become wet. A discolored spot will remain in place of the tubercle. Scale insects multiply quickly, move up the trunk, and move onto shoots and leaves. Scale insects camouflage themselves to be invisible. Therefore, the color of the pest can be brownish, brownish, or greenish. A plant affected by scale insects looks depressed, its leaves curl and fall off.
The scale insect is brought in with the soil, or it can move from another plant. The pest is removed mechanically - by hand. The scale insect covers itself like a shell from all kinds of sprays, so all chemicals are ineffective against the scale insect.
Wipe the infected areas with a sponge soaked in soap or alcohol solution. Additionally, to ensure proper processing, the soil in the flowerpot is spilled with Actelikt or Aktara.
An insidious disease. It goes on for a long time hidden from the eyes of an inexperienced grower. A minor pigmentation disorder in the form of barely noticeable light spots will not cause concern for everyone. Over time, these spots increase in size. But again, this phenomenon can be associated with insufficient lighting or blaming yourself for missing feeding the oleander. Concerns about the health of the plant will come along with the appearance of ugly thickenings and dark growths on its shoots. The shoots will become brittle and the leaves will dry out. Unfortunately, the disease has no cure.
The causative agent of the disease, the bacterium Pseudomonas tonelliana, is introduced by the pests described above. Oleander cancer can be prevented. It is enough to follow the rules of flower care and promptly destroy pests.
If your oleander does get sick, try to prolong its life by regularly cutting out and disposing of infected shoots. You can also cut cuttings from healthy shoots and place them for rooting. There is a high probability that they will grow into healthy plants.
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For what reasons can oleander diseases occur? This is a lack of sunlight, lack of fresh air, dry soil, high temperature in winter. In unfavorable conditions, oleander leaves dry out and fall off. In addition, oleander leaves can be affected by spider mites. The latter disease is typical for flowers in conditions of low air humidity and a polluted indoor atmosphere. So, oleander, its diseases and pests, causes, photos and recommendations from treatment specialists.
Common oleander diseases at home: spider mites, scale insects, scale insects.
The causes of spider mites: lack of light and high temperature of the flower (above +15 degrees) in winter, low air humidity in summer, lack of light. Signs of oleander disease: white, powdery coating mainly on the back of the leaf. In most cases, the leaves of the flower dry out. Treatment: increase air humidity. Daily spraying is required; great attention is paid to the underside of the oleander leaves. If a spider mite infects a flower in winter, then you can take a cold shower; if in summer, the water temperature for spraying is increased to +40 degrees. A prerequisite is bright lighting. If spider mites have infested a flower en masse, use the preparations Fitoverm and Vertimer. If the room temperature is +20 degrees, the plant is treated with the drug 3 times with an interval of 10 days. If the room temperature is kept at +30 degrees, then the flower is also treated 3 times, but with an interval of 3-4 days.
In some cases, with severe mite infestation, the oleander leaf may become covered with whitish spots. Such leaves are deprived of chlorophyll. Over time they fall off.
Oleander leaves are covered with small spots. At first they are light, then they darken. At the same time, they are easily picked off from the sheet. Disease: thrips. Cause of occurrence: abundant watering, high temperature of the oleander. Treatment: watering and spraying with Aktara. For spraying you need a solution of 4 g of the drug per 5 liters of water, for watering: 1 g of the drug per 10 liters of water. Carry out the treatment at least 4 times with an interval of 4 days.
How to save oleander? Its leaves fell in winter. In most cases, oleander leaves fall off in winter due to lack of sunlight. Experts recommend providing the flower with additional lighting using a fluorescent lamp for up to 8-9 hours every day. Why do oleander leaves still dry out? In winter, this is the high temperature of an adult plant (over +15 degrees). Since oleander is a subtropical plant, it needs winter rest. If a young plant does not have an urgent need for rest, then a flower that is more than 3-4 years old really needs it. High temperatures in winter stimulate the growth of the flower, which depletes it. As a result, the oleander leaves dry out. Ways to eliminate the problem: reduce the temperature, provide the flower with the proper level of illumination (daylight hours 8-9 hours).
Why do oleander leaves fall? Reason: lack of light. Oleander is a light-loving plant. When grown at home, it often suffers from lack of light. A favorable place for it is the windows on the south side of the house. In winter, the plant needs additional lighting. Oleander does not like dry soil, but swamps should not be created either. Watering is carried out as the top layer of soil dries. In summer, the plant is kept at temperatures up to +25 degrees. In winter, the temperature must drop to + 15 degrees.
The risk of disease development can be minimized by providing the oleander with optimal growing conditions. Most of the alarming changes are caused by improper care. Prolonged ignoring of the alarm signals sent by the plant leads to the emergence of pest diseases.
A white, gray or yellow-brown coating appears on the oleander, gradually spreading to the entire plant. The appearance of the fungus is a consequence of the weakening of the oleander by pests and poor growing conditions: high humidity, low temperatures, excessive thickening and excess fertilizer:
A sign of viral diseases is the deformation of flowers, the appearance of spots, stripes and discoloration on them. Viral diseases cannot be cured. It can be prevented by controlling the carriers, aphids, and disinfecting pruning tools in a trisodium phosphate solution. Infected plants should be removed and burned.
The reason is incorrect growing conditions:
Oleander is a species of shrub from the Kutrovaceae family. The flower stands out for its interesting dark shoots and is overgrown with burgundy scaly lenticels. The foliage of the plant, oleander, is about 15 cm long and about three cm wide. The leaves are linear in shape - oblong, smooth, fleshy. A vein runs down the center of the leaf.
Oleander blooms in the summer. The inflorescences are bright in color and large in size. The flowers are five-leaved and are located at the ends of the shoots, representing corymbs. The colors of the inflorescences are yellow, pink, white and red.
Portugal is considered the birthplace of this plant. It is still often found in nature in Crimea.
It grows wild in Italy and Algeria. It grows near bodies of water. This species reaches a height of four meters. The leaves are on short stalks, linear, elongated, about 15 cm in length and about two centimeters in width. The upper part of the leaf is rich green in color, and the inner side is lightish in color.
When flowering begins, the bush is covered with abundant large inflorescences that emit a pleasant aroma. In natural conditions, the color of this species is either pink or reddish. Flowering lasts throughout the summer season, including autumn.
Easy to care for. Often grown in office premises. It can reach a height of up to 2 meters. But you can use pruning to form the required height and shape of the plant. Flowering lasts from summer until frost. The inflorescences have a pleasant aroma.
It is a green shrub with oblong leaves like a willow. The shape of the bush is neat and compact. During flowering, the entire bush is covered with double inflorescences of a soft pink hue.
Loves good lighting. If such conditions are not maintained, it will refuse to bloom and will stop growing. The optimal temperature for it is about 20 degrees. In summer it needs fresh air. And in winter, home oleander enters a dormant state. It needs to be provided with dark conditions where it will shed all its foliage.
It blooms brightly, the flowers are shaped like bells. The seeds of the plant are similar to chestnut seeds. The inflorescences are thrown out in the form of brushes. Their shade is soft peach. Duration of flowering throughout the summer season and autumn. An amazing property of oleander is that several plants can grow from one seed.
Therefore, all manipulations with the flower must be done with gloves. It contains the poison oleanin. And after finishing any work with it, you should wash your hands with soap. If there are small children in the house, then you should avoid growing oleander. Or leave the plant at a height inaccessible to children.
The plant requires full lighting and ventilation too. Prefers the south side. In summer it is better to take it out onto the loggia. In winter, the plant needs additional lighting with a lamp, otherwise it will shed all its leaves.
The optimal temperature in the warm season will be up to 27 degrees. And in winter you should lower it a little to 15 degrees, but not less, and not a sharp drop.
The plant does not require constant moisture; only in hot summer weather should the plant be sprayed. In winter, it is necessary to periodically spray the plant, otherwise in winter, when the heating season begins, the plant is likely to dry out the tips of the leaves.
He prefers constant watering, just do not over-water it. Water for hydration needs to be soft, warm and left to sit for a day. In the cold season, the plant is moistened every three days. But you should pay attention so that the soil is not sour and the root system does not rot.
In the care and cultivation of a plant such as oleander, fertilizer is necessary. A complex fertilizer for indoor plants is suitable for this. Feed every 14 days during the growing season. This should be done in the evening after watering.
The plant needs pruning and shaping the bush into the shape you prefer. Trimming oleander at home is not difficult. The plant needs to be cut back by more than half. Since buds appear only on new shoots. Those branches that are cut can be propagated.
The composition of the soil should include deciduous soil, turf, humus, peat and sand, all in equal parts.
The home flower oleander requires replanting as needed. As soon as the roots entwine the earthen ball, the oleander needs a transplant.
The second half of spring is considered a favorable period for transplantation. During transplantation, it is necessary to trim the roots, this is necessary for abundant flowering. An adult who has reached the age of five needs to replace part of the soil annually. The cut roots must be sprinkled with charcoal crushed into flour.
The plant can be propagated by cuttings and seeds.
Cuttings can be done both in spring and autumn. It is necessary to cut a cutting about 15 cm in length, from a well-formed bush and having several buds.
The cut area is treated with crushed charcoal and dried a little. Afterwards, the cuttings must be planted in a prepared mixture of charcoal and sand. Maintaining the rooting temperature around 21 degrees.
Remembering to ensure that the soil is not exposed to stagnant moisture. With proper propagation manipulations, roots begin to appear in about a month. After rooting and an adaptation period, the plant is transplanted into a prepared container with soil.
Seeds must be planted immediately after ripening, since they have a short shelf life. But before sowing, they must be soaked in a manganese solution for one hour. After manganese, they need to be treated with a growth stimulator. Then sow in soil made of sand and fine charcoal, lightly sprinkled with soil.
After this, cover with film and place in a well-lit place with a temperature of about 30 degrees. The first shoots begin after a week and a half. Seedlings need to be sprayed, and when a couple of leaves appear, they need to be transplanted into separate containers.
Diseases in oleander at home can be caused by improper care. The plant is also susceptible to fungal and bacterial diseases. To do this, it is necessary to remove diseased leaves.
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