Stairs.  Entry group.  Materials.  Doors.  Locks.  Design

Stairs. Entry group. Materials. Doors. Locks. Design

» Do-it-yourself garage oven. Do-it-yourself wood-burning stove for the garage What can you cook in the garage

Do-it-yourself garage oven. Do-it-yourself wood-burning stove for the garage What can you cook in the garage

Often, a full-fledged heating system is not installed in the garage. This is due to the relatively rare use of the premises and its small area. But for long-term work in the cold season, it is recommended to make a garage oven from metal, which is quite possible with your own hands. Design drawings and specifications may vary depending on heating requirements.

Homemade stove for the garage: parameters and operating conditions

It is important to initially determine the location of the structure. It should not take up much space, and during operation it should not interfere with free movement around the garage or the performance of certain operations. Most often, a corner location of the stove is chosen.

The manufacture and installation of the furnace is carried out according to the following conditions:

  • Mandatory installation of a chimney. Its height must be at least 3 meters.
  • Fuel selection. The best option is to use firewood, coal or diesel fuel. Electric stoves or those running on bottled gas are much less common.
  • Preparing the base for installing the boiler, installing heat-resistant materials on the walls.

Before starting this work, you need to choose the optimal stove design for the garage. The choice depends on the volume of the heated area, the presence of a hob and the overall budget. As an example, you can consider the drawings of the most suitable homemade products.

Scheme of a simple “potbelly stove”

This is the best option to save space. Structurally, the furnace consists of a cylindrical or cubic body, divided into a combustion chamber and an ash pan. It can be made from barrels. The thickness of the steel must be at least 1.5 mm. The socket for the chimney pipe is located at the rear of the structure to connect the vertical pipe.

  • A gas cylinder can be used as a housing. It is first cleared of paint, holes are made for the doors, and a grate is installed.
  • When making a metal case yourself, 1.5 mm thick steel is used, the connection is made by welding.
  • The intensity of fuel combustion is regulated by changing the position of the ash pan door. This way the traction is controlled.
  • Additionally, you can install a cutter - a shelf at 2/3 of the height of the combustion chamber. This contributes to economical consumption of burned fuel.

The advantage of this design is the ease of manufacture and the possibility of installing a hob. The disadvantage is high fuel consumption.

Long burning mini-boiler

For long-lasting garage heating, it is recommended to consider long-burning. The essence of its work is to use wood gases as fuel. They arise as a result of smoldering firewood. Unlike the option described above, a long-burning metal garage stove has a large chamber for loading fuel, a pressure system consisting of a telescopic pipe and a flat base. This block is located at the top of the structure.

After loading the fuel, it is ignited from below. Restricting the flow of oxygen provokes the process of smoldering. The resulting gas enters the afterburner chamber, where it is enriched with oxygen and ignites.

Features of the design:

  • you can use a barrel or gas cylinder as a body;
  • to enrich the gas with oxygen, install a low-power fan;
  • the pipe for connecting the chimney is located horizontally;
  • low temperature in the chimney pipe can cause condensation, so it is recommended to use sandwich structures.

The average operating time on one load of fuel can be 8-12 hours. This depends on the volume of the furnace and the speed of air supply to the afterburning chamber.

Waste oil garage oven

The principle is to use fuel vapor. To make it, you can also take a small gas cylinder. At the bottom there is a fuel container. The vapors rise through a pipe with holes, and a fire occurs there.

It is not recommended to use this model for a garage. This is due to the high probability of gas contamination in the room, since combustion products partially enter the garage before entering the chimney. There may also be problems with fuel storage.

When choosing a stove design for a garage, you should take into account the complexity of its maintenance and frequency of use. But the determining factors are the cost of the design and the complexity of its manufacture.

Very often, a potbelly stove is used to heat a garage. Moreover, you can do it yourself, but you don’t need to spend money for it. It is enough to look in the bins for unnecessary metal parts.

Advantages and disadvantages of a potbelly stove for a garage

A potbelly stove is rightfully considered the most practical way to heat in winter. This is a small structure that is practically portable and can heat any room, regardless of the outside temperature and other climatic conditions. This is its main advantage. However, in modern conditions, a potbelly stove is used exclusively for heating outbuildings, for example, a garage. And this comes with a lot of disadvantages:

  • the stove cools down quickly, which means that in order to maintain a constant temperature in the room, it must always be burning;
  • uneconomical for the same reason;
  • is a fire hazard, so when installing it you need to take care to protect the nearby wall and floor.

However, its omnivorous nature allows you to save a little on the purchase of fuel, especially considering the almost 100% efficiency of such a device.

The potbelly stove has a special design, thanks to which it is possible to obtain high efficiency

Design and operating principle

The peculiarity of a potbelly stove is that it does not require the construction of a foundation or the installation of a major chimney. In most cases, this is precisely why it is chosen for use in the garage. This room does not always have electricity or a gas pipeline, which means that a potbelly stove is the only solution to the heating problem.

The potbelly stove does not require the construction of a foundation

This design is a metal box with a door and a pipe, which is located outside the heated room.

The pipe can also serve as a heating element if it is slightly modified. Make it stepped rather than straight, which will allow the hot air to linger in it a little.

Calculation of basic parameters (with drawings and dimensions)

High efficiency of a potbelly stove can only be achieved if all the main design parameters are correctly calculated.

Pipe

In this case, the diameter of this element is very important. The throughput of the chimney should be less than the productivity of the furnace firebox, which is the main distinguishing feature of a potbelly stove. This will allow warm air not to immediately leave the stove, but to linger in it and heat the surrounding air.

It is very important to make an accurate calculation for it. The diameter should be 2.7 times the volume of the firebox. In this case, the diameter is determined in millimeters, and the volume of the firebox in liters. For example, the volume of the combustion chamber is 40 liters, which means that the chimney diameter should be about 106 mm.

If the potbelly stove provides for the installation of grates, then the height of the firebox is calculated without taking into account the volume of this part, that is, from the top of the grate.

Screen

It is very important to force the hot gases not to cool, but to burn out completely. In addition, the fuel must burn through partial pyrolysis, which requires extremely high temperatures. A metal screen located on three sides of the stove will help to achieve a similar effect. It should be placed at a distance of 50–70 mm from the stove walls, due to which most of the heat will return to the stove. This air movement will give the necessary high temperature and protect against fire.

The screen of a potbelly stove made of red brick is capable of accumulating heat

Litter

It definitely has to be there. There are two reasons for this:

  • some of the heat is radiated downwards;
  • the floor on which the stove stands gets hot, which means there is a risk of fire.

The litter solves these two problems at once. As such, you can use a metal sheet with a projection of 350 mm (ideally 600 mm) beyond the contour of the furnace itself. There are also more modern materials that do an excellent job of this task, for example, a sheet of asbestos or kaolin cardboard, at least 6 mm thick.

You can use an asbestos sheet for bedding under a potbelly stove.

Chimney

Despite all the calculations, gases sometimes escape into the chimney not completely burned out. Therefore, it must be done in a special way. The chimney consists of:

  • the vertical part (1–1.2 m), which is recommended to be wrapped in thermal insulation material;
  • hog (slightly inclined part or completely horizontal), 2.5–4.5 m long, which should be 1.2 m from the ceiling, which is not protected with heat-resistant materials (1.5 m from the wooden surface), from the floor - by 2.2 m.

The chimney must be vented to the street

Photo gallery: diagrams of a potbelly stove for a garage

The diagram must indicate all the exact measurements. The chimney must be directed to the street The potbelly stove can be round or square The volume of the firebox depends on the presence of grates The design of the potbelly stove depends on the material used

Required materials and tools

To make a potbelly stove with your own hands you will need:

  • welding tool (or any other welding machine if you have relevant experience);
  • chisel;
  • soft cloth (you can use rags);
  • hammer;
  • sandpaper (fine-grained).

The list of materials depends on what container the potbelly stove will be made from. This could be a gas cylinder or a milk flask. If you have some experience working with metal, then a potbelly stove can be made from sheet material. However, you definitely need to take care of the availability of:

  • refractory bricks;
  • steel pipes;
  • metal wire;
  • grate bars (in some cases you can do without them);
  • pipe with weather vane;
  • door hinges.

Preparatory work before assembling the furnace: choosing a location

Using a potbelly stove in a garage, like any other heating device, requires compliance with safety rules. First of all, this concerns the installation location of the device. The corner of the garage, which is located near the walls opposite the door of the room, is ideal for this.

Remember that you cannot place the stove in close proximity to the car. The distance between them should be at least 1.5 m. A similar distance should be from objects that are easily flammable, for example, from barrels of gasoline.

The walls near the stove must be protected with fireproof material

The distance from the stove to the wall depends on what material the garage is built from. If it is wood, then there should be at least 1 m from the stove to the wall. Additionally, it is recommended to protect them with asbestos boards.

Step-by-step instructions for making a potbelly stove for your garage with your own hands

The method of making a potbelly stove depends on its shape and the material used.

Classic stove-stove

To manufacture such a structure, you must have certain skills in working with a welding machine. All work consists of several steps:

  1. Make 5 blanks from sheet metal.

    Blanks need to be cut from sheet metal

  2. Weld the side surfaces to the bottom. Make sure that they are positioned strictly vertically relative to each other, which will be helped by using a level or a building square.
  3. Weld the back wall.
  4. The internal space is conditionally divided into three parts: smoke circulation, combustion part and ash pit. In the last two, install a grate. To do this, at a height of 10–15 cm, you need to weld the corners over the entire length. For the grill itself, it is recommended to use thick sheet steel 25–30 mm wide, from which strips must be cut. The distance between the plates should be 5 cm. The rods themselves must be welded to two rods, which give the grille rigidity.
  5. It is necessary to weld two metal rods on top, which are needed to position the reflector (the sheet that separates the firebox and the smoke circulation); the reflector must be positioned in such a way that a channel for smoke is formed.

    Grate bars and a potbelly stove are optional elements

  6. Weld the lid of the potbelly stove, not forgetting the hole for the pipe. Cut and weld the top bridge. Do the same with the narrower part.
  7. Make a door. It is recommended to do it across the entire width of the stove, so that the grate bars and reflector can be removed without problems during cleaning and repairs. Don't forget that the door should be equipped with a handle, latch and curtains.
  8. Install the structure on legs, which can be made from a metal pipe with a diameter of 2–3 cm. You should not make them too high. 8–10 cm will be enough. If desired, you can equip them with bolts, which will allow you to adjust the height.
  9. Make a chimney from a pipe with a diameter of 15–18 cm. To remove it, you need to make a hole in the wall of the appropriate size. The pipe consists of three parts, which are connected to each other at an angle of 45°.

    The pipe must not have horizontal parts

  10. A rotating damper must be made at the lower end of the chimney pipe. It can also be made from sheet metal, but the diameter should be slightly smaller than the hole in the pipe. It is also necessary to provide a handle that would move this damper.
  11. The pipe must be fixed on a sleeve measuring 15–20 cm, which is welded along the hole to the top cover.
  12. Install the stove and adjust its height.

    When using sheet metal, you can make a potbelly stove of any size

Video: original potbelly stove for the garage with your own hands

Milk can oven

Making such a stove is quite easy, you just need to follow the step-by-step instructions:

Video: potbelly stove for a garage from a gas cylinder

Features of operation

When operating a homemade potbelly stove, it is very important to follow certain rules. This is necessary not only for the safety of its use, but also for a long service life. These rules are:

  • it is necessary to maintain a safe distance between the walls of the stove itself and the walls of the room (a distance of 50 cm is considered ideal);
  • the chimney must be routed directly to the street; in no case should it be connected to the ventilation system of the garage (very often this desire arises when the stove is installed in the basement of the garage), since this is the only way to guarantee sufficient draft for proper combustion;
  • places where the pipe is exposed to the street must be insulated with asbestos or other non-flammable material;
  • You can increase the efficiency of a potbelly stove by insulating the room itself;
  • It is necessary to install a box of sand and a fire extinguisher next to the potbelly stove, as this is required by fire safety regulations.

How to improve oven performance

This stove has one significant drawback - it cools down very quickly. However, this is very easy to fix with the help of a brick screen, which is installed on three sides of the structure. This will allow you to accumulate heat and release it to the room even after the stove stops burning.

It should be placed at a distance of 5–7 cm from the walls of the stove, and in no case end-to-end. In this case, you need to take care of the presence of ventilation holes.

The screen should not be close to the walls of the stove

A structure with a brick screen will weigh much more than a conventional metal stove, so it is recommended to first build an individual foundation.

In some cases, it may be necessary to install a custom foundation. It's very easy to do:

  1. Dig a hole about 50 cm deep. All other dimensions depend on the size of the stove itself and the screen.
  2. Fill the bottom of the hole with sand (usually this takes about 3-4 buckets), after which it needs to be compacted. Cover the sand with a 10–15 cm layer of crushed stone and compact it as well.
  3. Level the backfill and fill it with prepared cement mortar. Leave it for a day (you can do it for several days, the foundation will only benefit from this).
  4. Cover the base with several layers of roofing felt.
  5. Now you can start laying out the screen in the brick floor. In this case, the first two rows should be laid out in continuous masonry directly on the roofing material. In rows 3–4 it is necessary to make ventilation gaps. Continue solid masonry.
  6. It is recommended to make the screen without a top cover.

How to properly clean a potbelly stove

The design features of this stove allow it to be cleaned quite rarely.

This is one of the advantages of a potbelly stove. However, periodically the chimney must be cleaned of soot residues. You can use a special brush for this. You can do it yourself. Attach a cylindrical brush to the rope. It is recommended to use a brush with plastic or iron bristles. In this case, you need to select it in such a way that it can easily squeeze into the narrow chimney pipe.

The cleaning process itself occurs in the following sequence:

  1. Close the firebox opening and plug it with a rag.
  2. Make several movements with the brush (you need to stop when the brush begins to move without resistance). Wait.
  3. Remove any food that has flowed down to the cesspool.

All this must be done extremely carefully, since the chimney pipe of potbelly stoves is not very strong.

A homemade potbelly stove in the garage can become a reliable and effective assistant in the fight against winter frosts. And if you do it yourself, the efficiency of the device can be increased many times.

First of all, it must be safe. When using it, the following rules must be observed:

  • the floor and walls around the stove must be made of fireproof material: tiles, iron, plaster, bricks. It is permissible to cover the walls with special plasterboard;
  • should not be located near the stove flammable objects or substances;
  • it is permissible to build a stove only from proven quality materials;
  • the garage must be equipped with a system ventilation.

Wood-burning bake for a DIY garage means following the rules. That's why ventilation a garage equipped with a potbelly stove is extremely important for two reasons:

  • if there is a lack of oxygen, the fire in the stove will go out or burn weakly;
  • Excess carbon dioxide indoors can cause poisoning or death.

To remove combustion products from the garage, it is necessary to arrange chimney, but if problems arise in the pipe, ventilation will prevent the garage from catching fire or poisoning the people in it.

The necessary access to fresh air can be ensured by leaving a small (up to 5 cm) gap under the gate or by making several ventilation holes under.

Do-it-yourself wood-burning stove for the garage:

Selecting a location

Best to install potbelly stove in the corner of the wall opposite the gate. The heat emanating from the far corner will warm the room and remain in the garage even when the door is opened. The distance from the wall to the stove can be approx. 0.5 m. if the walls are made of brick, iron or any non-combustible material. With wooden walls, it is better to move the stove at 1 m., and cover the walls with bricks, tiles or cover them with a steel apron.

IMPORTANT: The minimum distance from a homemade stove for heating a garage to a car and any objects capable of burning is 2-2.5 m. Reducing this distance increases the likelihood of fire and poses a threat to the paintwork of the car.

Place underneath the oven iron sheet about 1 cm thick or cement the surface within a radius of 1-1.5 m. Thanks to this, coals that accidentally fall out of the oven or flying sparks will cool down without causing a fire in the garage.

Increase safety and increase heat dissipation potbelly stoves Brick walls lined on the sides and end of the stove will help. The slowly cooling brick will maintain the temperature in the garage for several hours after the furnace has finished firing.

Cover yourself brick You can only use a square or rectangular oven. Incorrectly covering a cylindrical potbelly stove with stone can lead to a reduction in heat transfer to the room and rapid burning of the metal walls of the stove. Increase heat transfer of the furnace made from part of a pipe, you can weld metal ribs to its sides.

Dimensions Potbelly stoves for the garage are:

  • height 50 cm (body 30 cm and legs 20 cm);
  • width 30 cm;
  • length 50 cm.

During production potbelly stoves from a metal pipe, the diameter of the latter must be at least 30 cm. For any oven shape, the minimum metal thickness is 5 mm.

Do-it-yourself wood-burning stove in the garage - drawings:

Fuel reserve

Firewood– the most popular fuel for furnaces installed in the garage. They allow you to quickly warm up the room and cost inexpensive(or prepared independently, i.e. obtained for free).

For potbelly stoves Well-dried (preferably aged for more than a year) firewood, cut 25 cm long and stored in a ventilated place protected from precipitation, is suitable. Ideal for storing firewood barn, but you can also put them under a canopy. When choosing fuel It is worth considering that different wood produces different amounts of heat:

  • pine, spruce and larch burn out quickly and provide little heat;
  • oak, birch, acacia, pear, apple, cherry and maple have greater density, burn slower and give more heat.

In addition, when burning coniferous trees, a lot of soot, which settles on the chimney and creates a fire hazard. Burning birch is no less dangerous - the released tar mixes with soot and settles in the pipes and on the walls of the firebox.

The most dangerous fire method– burning coniferous or birch wood in smoldering mode. Resins and tar settle on the pipes and impregnate the brick; it is impossible to clean them off mechanically.

It is advisable to stock up on firewood a year or two before use. Delivery can be ordered online or through advertisements in local newspapers. But you can stock up on firewood for free:

  • in forest areas, obtain permission to cut down trees in a certain area (you will need to collect documents and spend time visiting authorities);
  • collect dry trees and large branches fallen by the wind in groves, forest belts and courtyards;
  • contact the nearest sawmill, where wood waste is burned or allowed to be collected by those who wish (a small remuneration may be required for workers);
  • find an area where furniture factories are cutting down forests - branches, tops and root parts of trees remain in place, which can be cut down and taken away.

Manufacturing

How to do potbelly stove to the garage? Before starting work, you must prepare drawing potbelly stoves for the garage, materials and tools for manufacturing:

  • sheet iron or a piece of pipe for the body with a thickness of at least 5 mm;
  • chimney pipe with a diameter of 12 cm and a thickness of 3 mm;
  • rods for attaching a pipe to a wall with a diameter of 12 mm;
  • iron 3 mm thick. for making a box for collecting ash;
  • welder;
  • electrodes with a diameter of 4 mm;
  • Bulgarian;
  • welding mask, gaiters and overalls;
  • separator;
  • mites;
  • hammer;
  • drill.

The most effective potbelly stove for the garage with your own hands - drawings:

First stage - preparation of parts. Having decided on the drawing of a wood-burning garage stove, size and shape, the details are outlined with chalk on metal and cut out. When cutting, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the walls and the circle.

Assembling a potbelly stove– the second stage of manufacturing – is not necessarily carried out at the installation site. Using tack welding, the three side walls and the bottom of the stove are connected, the perpendicularity of the connection is checked, and the front wall is applied to check the dimensions. Subsequent welding of the seams of the joints of the parts is carried out using a T-weld.

Installed and welded into the finished body partition between the firebox and the ash pit, in which holes for ash are made in advance. Holes in the partition are made at a distance of 5 cm from the oven wall and 1.5 cm from the next hole. Height installing a partition - at least 10 cm from the bottom of the furnace - ash will need to be removed from the resulting opening.

A round hole is cut in the back of the oven for chimney. In the front wall there are rectangular ones for the blower and firebox. The side edges of the holes should be at a distance of 5 cm from the walls, the lower edge of the blower should coincide with the bottom of the oven.

The cut out rectangles are welded onto the canopies, bringing them as close as possible to the top of the opening - over time, the doors will sag due to temperature. Both doors must be equipped with simple bolts, which move well even when hot.

Finished front wall welded to the body. All seams are carefully checked and errors are corrected. The legs, the length of which is at least 12 cm, are welded to the body, and then the top cover.

The last stage of furnace manufacturing is installation and assembly. chimney. The stove is installed in a pre-prepared place that complies with fire safety standards. A pipe is welded to the hole in the rear wall.

How to do it right chimney for a potbelly stove in the garage? The simplest chimney option - a straight pipe passing through the roof - is not justified from the point of view of heat conservation. It is advisable to create a 90-degree turn on the pipe (it is optimal if the turn is created through three bends, 30 degrees each) and lead it through the wall.

The top of the pipe is attached to the wall using rods, the other side of which is mounted into the wall, recessed by no less than 10 cm.

During installation chimney For a potbelly stove in a garage, it is important to ensure the tightness of all connections, otherwise smoke and soot will enter the room.

In addition to brick walls, ready-made potbelly stove can be equipped on top with a stove for heating food or a removable water tank to increase heat transfer.

Installation potbelly stoves in the garage will allow you to save on purchasing a ready-made stove and quickly heat the garage in the cold season.

Useful video

What a homemade potbelly stove for a garage looks like.

A garage stove that runs on cheap fuel is an excellent solution for those car enthusiasts who do not want to equip their “car house” with a full-fledged and expensive heating system.

Heating a garage - what options are there?

Owners of vehicles (vehicles) know that the car must be left to rest in garages with a temperature of +5 ° C and above. If this indicator is not maintained, it will be quite difficult for the driver to start the engine after parking the car for a long time. At low temperatures, antifreeze sometimes freezes, which brings a lot of problems when operating the vehicle. Even more serious troubles happen.

It’s easy to avoid them - ensure the very required temperature in the garage at +5. In cases where a “car house” is built as an extension to a residential building where there is central heating, the garage is usually equipped with a heating unit, connecting it to a common network. But in those garages that are located far from heated houses and buildings, it is necessary to install autonomous heaters.

These include:

  • Buleryan stoves are devices with a high efficiency that operate on any solid fuel (wood waste, coal, peat, and so on). These units operate for up to 8–10 hours on one load of flammable material. They are very compact and easy to use. It would seem - an ideal option for a garage. But there is a problem - the objectively high cost of such installations.
  • Oil, infrared or electric heater, heat guns are devices connected to the electrical network. There are no difficulties with their installation, but they consume a lot of electricity. Economical people do not use such devices as a garage oven, since the costs for them are really high.
  • A “potbelly stove” is a simple wood-burning stove. It is well suited for heating garages. You don't have to buy it in a store. It’s easy to make a simple and at the same time very effective “potbelly stove” yourself.

Also, with due diligence, any driver can make an economical garage oven with his own hands, which will run on waste oil. We will tell you further how to make such a structure yourself, as well as a “potbelly stove”.

Homemade wood stove - basic and effective

A simple “potbelly stove” for a garage is characterized by a number of advantages:

  • low cost of installation and maintenance;
  • “omnivorous” (coal, firewood, and sawdust can serve as fuel for such a stove);
  • a sufficiently high efficiency indicator with objectively small dimensions of the structure;
  • the ability to cook or heat food on a stove;
  • no need to build a foundation for the heating device.

A wood stove can be made in different ways. Moreover, any such design necessarily has the following components:

  • Combustion chamber - firebox. Everyone chooses the geometric parameters and configuration of this part of the “potbelly stove” to their own taste.
  • Pipeline for smoke exit. It is made in a spiral or curved form. If you plan to use straight sections of pipe to create a stove, keep in mind that their length cannot be more than 100 cm.
  • The grate is a special grate on which solid fuel is placed. It is necessary to create good draft in the heating device. The grate bars are always placed at the base of the stove.
  • Ash pit is a small compartment under the grates. It collects ash from burnt fuel.

The curved shape of the chimney is due to the need to reduce the speed at which the air heated in the stove moves through the pipe. “Turns” of the pipeline trap smoke. As a result, it does not go down the chimney, but actively transfers thermal energy to the garage. As you can see, this garage oven has a simple and understandable design. We attach to the article drawings of similar heating devices. Making a stove using them as a guide is not at all difficult. It is only important to remember two things:

  1. The installation of the “potbelly stove” is carried out in that part of the garage where consumable flammable materials and various lubricants, wooden elements, and items subject to easy ignition are not stored.
  2. It is imperative to make holes in the garage through which air from the street will constantly flow into it, as well as simple exhaust ventilation to remove waste combustion products.

We make a “potbelly stove” on our own

The wood stove is made of metal. Can be used:

  • pipe with a cross section of 30 cm;
  • metal sheets 5–8 mm thick;
  • barrel with walls from 5 mm thick.

Sheets of metal should be cut with a grinder into pieces of the size you need and joined into a cubic structure using. The barrel or pipe is used in the form in which it is, trimmed to the specified geometric parameters. A smoke exhaust pipe must be mounted on the rear wall of the structure (or on its top). The diameter of the pipe product is taken to be about 12–16 cm. The thickness of its walls is 2–3 mm (otherwise the pipe will simply burn out).

Then we cut out an area for the firebox in the structure, and under it we make a place where the ash from the burnt fuel will fall. These two sections are separated from each other by grates, which are made of a metal horizontal plate with several slots (the finished product can be bought on the market or in a hardware store).

If you are planning to build a fairly large heating device, the grate slots should have parameters of about 4–5 cm. For a small stove that you will heat with small wood and coal, slots of 1–1.2 cm are sufficient.

The ash pan itself is usually made in the form of a removable metal container. It is made of steel (sheet) 3 mm thick. Such a box can be easily removed as needed and emptied of ash. To increase the efficiency of the device, experts advise welding 4–5 mm steel plates to the sides (perpendicular to them) of the homemade structure. Due to this, the contact area of ​​the stove with the surrounding air will increase, and the garage will heat up much faster.

Heating device for burning waste oil - “free” heat

A homemade garage stove of this type is very popular among car enthusiasts. It works on any type of oil (transmission, machine, shale, industrial), stove and diesel fuel, and even on paint residues. In terms of the amount of heat transferred to the air, this design is identical to a conventional heater operating on electricity.

The circuit of the described device is simple. The stove is made of two containers. They are connected by a pipe located vertically. You will definitely need to make holes in this pipe. The recommended geometric dimensions of such a furnace are 0.7 x 0.5 x 0.35 m, the total weight is in the range of 30–35 kg, the volume of containers used is 12 liters. As the latter, old compressors from Soviet refrigerators or cylinders in which propane was stored are most often used.

  1. From a metal corner you make 20–25 cm legs, on which you install one tank horizontally.
  2. Weld the container to the support legs.
  3. At the top of the first tank and at the bottom of the second (approximately in the middle), drill holes and vertically weld a pipe to them, connecting the two tanks into one structure. The thickness of the pipe product is 5–6 mm. Even better is to make a collapsible structure. In this case, you weld the lower part of the pipe to the lower tank, and fit the upper part tightly onto the hole of the second tank. A dismountable device will make it much easier for you to clean soot and soot.
  4. Drill 10–14 holes in the pipe (in its middle section). Please note that holes are not made within 9–10 cm of the containers.
  5. Cut a small hole at the top of the lower tank, equip it with a simple lid that will be convenient to open and close. This hole is necessary for filling oil (other fuel used).
  6. You also make a hole at the top of the second tank, weld a pipe to it and mount an exhaust pipe on it. The latter is best made from stainless steel (galvanized).

We hope that the drawings and videos that we provided in this article will help you quickly make an effective stove for the “home” of your car.

The easiest and most convenient way to heat a garage in winter is to install some kind of electric heater. Many motorists do this, but then they have to deal with electricity bills that are not comparable with the heat received due to the high tariff. On the other hand, a stove for a garage using wood or exhaust is not as comfortable to use, but it will certainly be cheaper. This material will outline how to save even more and make such a stove yourself.

Wood burning stove

There are very few requirements for such stoves:

  • so that it generates heat well;
  • was suitable for burning any wood;
  • fit on the space allocated for her.

Since simple stoves for a garage do not particularly need aesthetics, home craftsmen usually weld them from whatever comes to hand or is found on scrap metal. So the shape of the body can be arbitrary; if you find a piece of a large pipe, the stove will be round; if you find some sheet metal, let’s make it rectangular. By and large, this does not matter much; the design itself is much more important.

The Internet is full of drawings of different stoves, but they are all derivatives of a traditional metal potbelly stove. The heater body can be oriented in a horizontal or vertical plane; this has almost no effect on operating efficiency. The fact is that a homemade vertical stove for the garage, made with your own hands, takes up less space. While long logs are placed in the horizontal one, it burns longer with one load. Choose which option you like best.

Traditional potbelly stoves do not have a grate; this stove is a hearth stove. The chimney is located in the rear part and is supplied from above, as shown in the drawing:

In a garage where flammable liquids and oils are stored, the absence of an ash pan is not the best option. When cleaning the hearth, hot coals may crumble, making the procedure inconvenient. For this reason, a simple wood-burning stove received grates, an ash pan and a door for cleaning, or even a drawer. As for the pipe, it is boiled in the usual place or on the back wall.

But the improved two-way potbelly stove has a pipe in the front part. The design of the furnace promotes increased heat transfer, since the flue gases inside it make two passes in different directions, intensively exchanging heat with the metal walls.

The last passage of gases ends at the front wall, which is why the pipe is in the front. Such a stove for a garage is very effective; it can be made according to the drawing presented above:

Increasing the exchange surface will further increase heat transfer. Craftsmen solved this issue long ago by welding ribs made of strip steel 4-5 mm thick to the body, as shown in the photo:

Without going into details and description of welding work, we will give some general recommendations:

  • try to take thicker metal, if possible, 4-5 mm. Then the wood stove will last longer;
  • when attaching the chimney from above, it is better to strengthen the wall; this joint burns out most often;
  • external fins significantly improve heat exchange; they can be welded to any stove;
  • You can install at least one partition inside, like a two-pass oven;
  • It is better to make many small holes in the grate than large holes where unburnt coals will spill out.

Waste oil furnace

The simplest garage stove that runs on waste oil is well known to everyone. And, although its drawing is not difficult to find in RuNet, just in case we will present it again:

As you can see, such a heater is simple to manufacture, but there are some nuances during operation. The main enemy of such stoves is water, which, due to various circumstances, gets into the used oil. A very small amount of it causes strong pops in the perforated afterburner (a vertical pipe with holes), which can lead to a fire. It turns out that before use, the fuel must be settled to separate the water.

Important. Any furnace used for combustion, as well as for wood, requires a chimney with good draft for stable operation, so it is recommended to raise it to a height of at least 4 m.

The second drawback of the heater is the pungent odor during the ignition and warm-up stages. Otherwise, the use of the miracle stove, as it is called on specialized forums, does not cause any particular complaints. It heats up quite well. But on the same forums, craftsmen have long proposed a more reliable and efficient design. And not such a fire hazard. The principle by which such an oil stove operates is shown in the figure:

The fuel burns in a metal bowl located at the bottom of a vertical pipe (or gas cylinder). It is fed into the bowl in drops from a dosing device. Thanks to this scheme, if necessary, a liquid fuel stove can also burn diesel fuel; you just need to adjust the air supply and dosage. Some of the oil vapor burns out inside a vertical perforated pipe - an afterburner when secondary air is supplied. The furnace structure is shown in the drawing:

As a body, you can use a thick-walled steel pipe or a propane cylinder. The range of the remaining metal is indicated in the drawing; we will not list it again. Instead, let’s focus on the method of air supply; it can be of two types:

  • natural, due to chimney draft;
  • forced pumping by a fan.

A homemade drip stove made from a pipe can also operate at low draft if there is no way to raise the chimney higher. This is facilitated by installing a fan that forces air inside the afterburner. Then, looking into the operating furnace from above, we can observe the following picture:

The method is considered more effective and quite reliable, tested by more than one garage owner. If desired, such a diesel stove is enclosed in a water jacket, turning into a hot water boiler. This will allow you to install radiator heating in the garage and significantly increase comfort during long stays indoors in winter. The warning for oil heaters is the same as for wood heaters: if there is a high-rise residential building in the immediate vicinity, you will have to return to the idea of ​​heating with electricity.

Self-installation of a stove in a garage must be carried out according to certain rules. Firstly, you need to ensure the operation of the heater, and secondly, take fire safety measures. As for the first point, it concerns the correct installation of the chimney, which must create normal draft. Here are the recommendations:

  • pipe height - at least 4 m, counting from the grate;
  • turns - no more than 3, avoid setting knees at 90º, try to use 45 or 30º;
  • if there is a horizontal section, then its length is no more than 1 m;
  • It is better to insulate the section of the pipe on the street with basalt wool to prevent the formation of condensation;
  • Attach the chimney to the wall so that it does not load the body of the stove.

When installing a wood or oil stove yourself, follow fire safety requirements. Here is their list:

  • Place a sheet of metal on the floors under the stove, protruding 1 m from the side of the door;
  • combustible wall structures near the stove must be protected with metal or brick screens;
  • when passing a wooden ceiling through the chimney, ensure a gap of 250 mm between it and the pipe, filling it with basalt fiber;
  • in order to protect the flue from being blown in by the wind, install a deflector or a special nozzle on it;
  • Natural supply and exhaust ventilation must function in the garage.

Conclusion

Compared to electric stove heating, garage heating is much more economical, and sometimes even more efficient. But the installation and operation of oil and solid fuel heaters has its own characteristics that must be taken into account. Making stoves with your own hands will not be very difficult for a person who has the necessary skills. As a last resort, you can entrust the production to a familiar craftsman, choosing a suitable design.