Kuksa is a Sami folk mug (small cup or ladle) carved from suvel or birch burl.
In our case, it will be a stylized wooden mug made of oak. We will sculpt this mug on a wood lathe.
We will need an oak block measuring 13.5x9.5x7.5 cm.
We mark a circle with a diameter of 9.5 cm with a compass. We draw a 3 cm handle and draw the lines of the cuts.
We make cuts.
We chop off the excess with a chisel.
We drill a hole in the handle with a 25 mm feather drill.
We round the workpiece on a circular saw.
We screw the mug blank with self-tapping screws to the faceplate bottom down and install it on the lathe.
We begin to form the bottom and handle.
Using a cutting cutter, we cut through (thereby rounding the workpiece) as much as possible, just don’t get carried away so as not to cut off the handle at all.
The result is this blank with a rounded bottom and an uncut “collar” of about 3 cm. The bottom is 5.5 cm.
We remove the mug from the faceplate, screw a pine boss onto the faceplate and grind a “belt” equal to the bottom, namely 5.5 cm.
Apply PVA glue, combine the “belt” of the boss with the bottom of the mug and clamp it with clamps.
Glued together, install it in the machine.
We grind and grind the inside.
Cut it off. This is what happened.
This is what happened.
We also bring it to perfection by sanding by hand. Here is the result before coating with oil.
And already coated with linseed oil.
Kuksa is ready. Dimensions: diameter - 8.5 cm, height - 6.5 cm, length with handle - 12.5 cm.
Thank you for your attention. I hope that my master class will be useful to someone.
With all respect, Andrew.
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Want to do original gift for a wedding or birthday? Or a thing that would be pleasant to use and pick up, then we suggest making a wooden mug with your own hands, which will really look unusual; it will definitely be pleasant to drink any drink from such a mug.
What you will need to make a wooden mug:
The first thing you need to do is find a branch suitable for the mug, I often see similar ones when trees are pruned on the street, and there I chose a piece of the branch of the required thickness. You will also need even thinner branches for the handle.
Trim the branch to the desired mug height. Remove the bark from this section of branch, I used a flat head screwdriver to remove most of the bark.
Now we need to divide the log into four sections, for this I used a chisel and a hammer, using them I carefully split the log.
For each of the 4 parts of the mug, measure 19 mm from the bottom, make a cut in this part but so that the wall thickness remains about 9 mm on the sides. The saw makes a straight cut on a rounded object, so you need to be careful not to cut too far on the sides. Using a chisel, knock out the inner piece of wood from the top, it should break off before the cut, then continue to cut and knock out the excess from the inside of the parts of the mug until you reach the desired thickness of the walls of the mug and so that they are rounded.
Using sandpaper, clean the inside of the mug without touching the side splits where they should stick together.
Now use wood glue to glue the two pieces together by pulling them together. masking tape and leave to dry for a day. Then lubricate the side and bottom walls with glue and now glue everything together, securing it with masking tape, electrical tape or an elastic band.
When gluing, gaps may remain in some places; they can be covered with tyrsa (small wood shavings) mixed in glue. Leave the glue to dry for a day.
After the glue has dried, thoroughly sand everything on all sides; the bottom and top of the wooden mug should be rounded with sandpaper so that there are no sharp edges.
I sanded the bottom inside the mug using a homemade disk made of wood mounted on a metal rod and onto this disk I glued sandpaper.
Let's now start creating a handle for our wooden mug; to do this, take one thicker stick, one thinner one, remove the bark from them, cut it to the required length, you should get two thin sticks and one thick longer one.
Drill through holes with a drill with a diameter the size of the thinnest sticks in the wall of the mug (in the upper and lower parts of it, one above the other) and in the thick handle also through and at the same distance and insert thin sticks into the holes, applying plenty of wood glue to the tips so as not to There were gaps left in the mug.
Remained finishing our wooden mug, I used polyurethane for this (this is a type of synthetic varnish that is used to coat and finish wooden products). Several layers were required to make it completely waterproof.
Since the wooden mug was a wedding gift, I printed out a heart template with initials and the wedding date and using a Dremel with an engraving attachment, I cut out an engraving along the contours of the template, similar to what lovers do on tree trunks with a knife. Then I painted these engraving outlines with black paint and varnished them.
This is what a finished wooden mug made by yourself looks like, I hope you like it as much as I do.
Production wooden utensils has long been relegated to the category of exotic activities. And if previously in almost every village one could find a master of the art of turning, now only a few have such rare skills.
True, there are several methods for producing tableware without using lathe. They are also widely used on an industrial scale.
In the meantime, let’s decide what materials and tools you will need to make your own beer mug without using a lathe.
1. Materials:
– trimmings natural wood or wooden plank;
– safe wood glue, suitable for food production;
– varnish for wood processing water based with durable waterproof coating or oil;
– glue for processing the inside of a mug, intended, among other things, for the production of tableware.
2. Tools:
– any of the available tools for sawing wood: a miter saw, a circular saw, a chainsaw, a jigsaw or a regular hand hacksaw for wood;
– belt sander;
– a drill with a cutter equal to the diameter of the mug;
– an angle grinder with a grinding disc designed for working with wood;
– clamps;
- sandpaper;
– cloth for removing excess glue;
– ruler-square;
- pencil;
– a pair of patterns corresponding to the outer and inner diameter of the mug.
Step one: choosing material
The author used an old one wall shelf, which he got for free from a friend. Presumably it was made from Mahogany, so the output could be expected to have a rich and original wood texture.
He had to plane the oiled surface of the wood because it would prevent the parts from gluing together. Moreover, the origin of this oil is questionable for food purposes.
To work, you will need a solid board of more or less valuable wood. Wood scraps left over from previous work are also suitable. The main thing is that they are slightly larger than the final diameter of the beer mug.
Pay special attention to the degree of drying of the wood. In the production of such small products, this parameter is almost the key.
The wood should not be damp. It also should not be overdried, since in this case cracks will form on the surface.
Avoid areas with knots. They are very difficult to process and generally have completely different properties than the body of wood.
It would also be a good idea to pay attention to the smell of the material. Since you will be drinking beer from a mug, you would probably want to enjoy its aroma. Too strong a wood smell will overwhelm it.
Step two: pre-processing of material and manufacturing of parts
All parts you make for gluing must be perfectly even and smooth. Therefore, carefully plan the boards and sand them using a belt sander.
The use of an angle grinder can cause indentations to appear on the surface, and this prevents normal gluing of parts.
The sides of the parts should be only slightly larger than the outer diameter of the beer mug. If you leave too much excess, you will have to spend a long time sanding the workpiece. Therefore, pay a little attention to the measurements.
Sawing parts can be carried out with any tool, including hand hacksaw. Smooth edges are not so important here, although they will facilitate the grinding process.
So, prepare the parts in such quantity that they are enough to reach the height of the mug. Clean them of dust and move on to the next step.
Step three: gluing the workpiece
If you have carefully processed the material, there should be no problems with gluing.
Pay special attention to the choice of glue. Don't forget that you are working with utensils that come into contact with food.
A particularly harmful composition of the glue can easily lead to poisoning, so consult a specialist regarding the composition.
Also, the glue must have exceptional waterproof properties, since the mug will have to be washed constantly.
Apply glue to each of the parts and carefully distribute it over the surface of the wood. Gather the squares together and secure them securely with clamps.
Excess glue should come out without creating too thick seams. Remove them with a damp, lint-free cloth and leave the workpiece to dry completely at room temperature.
Using the described principle, make a blank for the mug handle.
Step four: making the inner cavity of the mug
You should have two patterns on hand that would correspond to the outer and inner diameter of the mug. Use cups and glasses as patterns to get a perfectly even circle.
Make markings on the workpiece as shown in the photo below.
Start cutting out the cavity. To do this, the author used an electric drill with a cutter of a suitable diameter.
Do not take a small cutter, because no matter how hard you try, you will not be able to process the walls evenly enough.
Before you start cutting out the cavity, securely fix the workpiece so that it does not have the opportunity to move to the side or vibrate, otherwise the whole job will go down the drain.
Make a hole, leaving a flat bottom, and start shaping the mug.
Step Five: Shape the Mug
The author assures that there are many ways to cope with this task. The whole point is to remove as much excess material as possible before finishing the mug with a belt sander.
He used a grinder with a sanding wheel suitable for working with wood.
Clamp the workpiece securely and do this initial rough sanding before moving on to the next step.
Step six: making a handle
Make a drawing of the handle on paper and transfer it to the workpiece. Cut the handle into the desired shape.
Step seven: final sanding
Initially, the author used a belt sander. This allowed him to achieve perfectly vertically even edges.
Remove the area of the wood where the mug's handle will be located. It should be flat.
Use fine sandpaper until the surface is perfectly smooth to the touch.
Step Eight: Secure the Handle
The glued planes must be perfectly flat and fit tightly to each other.
Apply glue to the handle and carefully press it to the pre-designated location. If the pressure on the handle was sufficient, the handle will hold like reinforced concrete. This is what the author himself assures.
Step Nine: Finishing
The author treated the outside of the mug with mineral oil. You can also use natural oils odorless or water-based varnish.
Mineral oil highlighted the color and texture of the wood, and the glue did an excellent job. Therefore, the experiment can be considered successful. Feel free to take it into service!
Sep 18, 2018 Gennady
Every true lover of the Russian bathhouse has a wooden jug with chilled kvass in the dressing room, and on its lid there is a wooden mug. But even in a city apartment it’s nice to sit and drink cold kvass on a hot day. And kvass, you understand, is drunk from a wooden mug. We can make such a mug ourselves.
From hardwood boards 30 mm thick we saw 12 boards 220x31 mm ( conifers wood will not work: a drink in a mug will be flavored with bitterness and a resinous aroma). At an angle of 12 0 we cut off the longitudinal edges of each plank so that in sections we get a trapezoid as in the figure.
We polish the boards. We stretch two strips of adhesive tape parallel to the table on the table with the adhesive side up and lay the boards across with their narrow edges facing up, placing them next to each other. A canvas is formed.
We coat the touching edges of the boards with PVA glue, take some cylindrical object as a template and cover it with our canvas so that the touching edges of the boards stick tightly to each other (for this you need a cylinder of a suitable diameter).
We tighten it tightly around the circumference with ropes or elastic bands.
When the glue is completely dry, sand the outside and inside. Then we tighten them with metal rings.
Now we cut out the bottom from the board, coat its edges with glue and insert it into the mug.
We cut out the handle and glue it.
All sharp corners sand and round with sandpaper. The wooden mug is ready.
This idea came to the master after his favorite mug broke at one of the parties.
After that, he decided to make an indestructible mug out of wood.
He had no experience in making such things, and also did not have a lathe. Here's how he got out of the situation.
Tools used:
Drill;
- feather drill 25 mm;
- saw;
- clamps;
- Sander;
- drilling machine;
- Dremel grinder;
- sanding drum;
Materials:
Wood (the craftsman used a discarded cutting board);
- wood glue;
- epoxy resin;
Step 1: Preparing the Wood for Cutting
The handyman found an old cutting board that he could use. She had good thickness, 19 mm. Since this is a cutting board after all, it must be made of hardwood. But it is better to use hardwood with a dense grain structure.
Using a broken mug, the master drew several circles on the cutting board. The idea was to cut some wooden rings, fold them, glue them, and then sand the cup to its final shape.
Step 2: Cutting the Holes
These holes will define the inside of the cup. First, the craftsman drilled a hole in the center using a 25mm feather drill. He then inserted the jigsaw and began cutting out the circle.
The master decided that The best way cutting a circle means making several radial cuts (from the hole you drilled to the marked line). He then began cutting out the design using a jigsaw from the center to the outlined circle. The radial cuts made it easier for him to maneuver the jigsaw.
In total, the master cut out 5 such circles. With a wood thickness of 19mm, the height of a cup of 5 rings will be about 9.5 - 10 cm.
Step 3: Cutting out the rings
The craftsman then drew circles around the holes he had just cut. He expected the difference between the hole and the circle to be 9 - 12 mm.
He then cut out the rings with a jigsaw.
Step 4: Grinding the inner diameter of the rings
Then the master, using a drill press on which a sanding drum was installed, polished his rings. I used fairly coarse sandpaper.
Step 5: Gluing the Rings
The next step is connecting the rings together. The master used wood glue. Then he squeezed the stack with clamps.
Not all rings are identical. It is advisable to fold the rings so that their inner diameter matches and the outer diameter has sufficient thickness so that it can be leveled.
Step 6: Forming the inner diameter of the cup
The master brought the inner diameter of the bowl to the right size on drilling machine with grinding drum.
The idea is to smooth out the high points on interior wall. You should stop periodically and run your fingers along the inside of the cylinder to feel any imperfections or waviness on the walls. Also, you should not stop in one place for a long time, so that round form internal diameter has not changed.
Step 7: Forming the Outer Contour
Then the master moved on to the tabletop tape grinding machine.
The master polished the cylinder, turning it slowly. Here it is also important not to stop in one position, otherwise the wall thickness will not be uniform. The master periodically stopped work to check the thickness of the walls. He continued sanding until he had a nice cylindrical shape and a fairly consistent wall thickness.
Step 8: Cup Bottom
Cutting a piece of wood to fit the bottom of the cylinder and gluing it without leaving gaps is very difficult. Therefore, the master decided to cast the bottom of the cup from food-grade epoxy resin.
The craftsman sealed the bottom by stretching the film over the wood and gluing it. Then he put a piece wax paper under the cylinder and secured it to the workbench with a clamp.
Step 9: Adding Color!
The master was having fun and decided that the transparent epoxy bottom was not interesting enough... He wanted a colored bottom, but he did not have dyes for epoxy resin. Besides, they are still expensive. Dyes are powders that dissolve in the epoxy resin during mixing. The master decided he could do the same with the powdered ingredients in his kitchen. He found an orange powdered drink and mixed some pellets into epoxy resin.
Step 10: Filling the Bottom with Epoxy
Once the master mixed the epoxy resin and got the desired mixture, he poured it into a wooden cylinder. I poured enough resin to completely fill the bottom ring (about 19mm deep).
Epoxy takes about an hour to harden. As curing began, the top surface began to foam. This usually happens with epoxy resin, but this time it was much worse... probably something from mixing it with the powdered drink.
Here helpful advice.
You can get rid of bubbles on the surface by heating them. Trying to stir the foam will mix the bubbles with the epoxy and they will become trapped. Instead, the master used a hairdryer, the bubbles burst and disappeared on their own.
Step 11: Forming the Bottom
The technician waited 24 hours before removing the cylinder and film. The casting was fairly clean, no spills or signs of leakage and no major imperfections on the bottom. Epoxy resin Of course, it took over the wrinkles from the film, but these defects were polished off.
Then it was time to sand the bottom.
Back to the belt sander.
And again the master continued to rotate the cup, supporting it with his other hand. This time, he slowly changed the angle of the cup to the grinder. This allowed the bottom to be rounded.
Step 12: Shutdown
