Pepper is one of the favorite crops of gardeners. It is difficult to find a person who would ignore it and never try to grow glossy, aromatic fruits in their garden.
As the season approaches, let's talk about pepper seedlings and the possible problems that anyone may encounter when growing this wonderful vegetable.
It would seem that they were planted, cared for, cherished, and suddenly they noticed that something was wrong with the seedlings. Let's figure out what's what.
We will look at the most common cases when peppers need urgent help and try to save your future harvest.
How can you help a pepper if its leaves suddenly begin to turn yellow? For what reason does this happen?
Yellowing of the lower cotyledon leaves is not critical, but it is worth paying attention to. If all the leaves turn yellow, this is already an alarming signal. Thus, the pepper communicates that he is very uncomfortable. There may be several reasons:
If the yellowing is not large-scale and clearly destructive, then the matter is most likely due to non-compliance with the growing conditions. You need to pay attention to watering. The soil should not be constantly wet, this promotes rotting of the root system, but also the earth ball should not dry out completely. Balance is needed. Some articles strongly recommend “abundant, abundant watering,” but we want to argue that everything should be in moderation!
Just when watering, the earth ball should be well and completely moistened. It should be just damp, not soaking wet. And re-watering should be done only when the top layer of soil dries out.
Check that when watering, water does not flow down the walls and further into the pan, and at the same time the earthen ball itself remains almost dry. This happens when the soil is not loose enough, it is compressed and forms gaps between the walls of the container and the earthen lump. If this happens, loosen the soil around the edges.
Water for irrigation should be settled, soft enough and its temperature should be at least 24-25 degrees. Do not water or spray peppers with cold water.
The soil must be loose and breathable. If the soil is very clumpy, it is heavy and dense, then the moisture will certainly stagnate and cause rotting of the roots and, as a result, poor nutrition of the plant and its yellowing from a lack of necessary substances.
It is this bright yellow color of the leaves that signals that the conditions listed above have been violated.
If you planted the seeds in clean peat or coconut substrate, or maybe not in very high-quality, poor soil, then the seedlings no longer have enough nutrition. This is especially noticeable in greatly grown seedlings, which suddenly begin to slowly turn yellow leaves.
Also, due to a lack of iron and magnesium, chlorosis of the leaves occurs, while the leaf blade turns yellow and the veins stand out clearly.
The seedlings need to be fed, not only with nitrogen fertilizer, but with a complex set containing not only nitrogen, but also potassium, phosphorus, iron and other necessary elements, without which the sprouts also starve. Use Gumat + 7 or Zdraven turbo for seedlings.
Fertilizing with these preparations can be done not only by the root, but also by spraying. It is produced with a nutrient working solution on the undersides of the leaves. It is important that the water is not cold!
Also, to avoid yellowing, pay attention to the temperature of the seedlings; it should be at least 22-24 degrees. Avoid drafts and cold air currents when ventilating.
Yellowing also occurs due to some diseases, such as mosaic, phytoplasmosis (stolbear), black leg, more about them below.
Are the pepper seedlings weak, thin, lethargic, sitting there and not really wanting to grow big, to your delight? What is the reason?
The frailty of seedlings and its slow growth may be due to the following factors:
If the seedlings are not pleased with rapid growth, but seem to have “frozen”, stubbornly sitting in one pore and embarrassing you with their puny appearance, you should pay attention to the air temperature. When seedlings are cold, they categorically refuse to grow and wait for better times. As already mentioned, maintain 22-24 degrees and no drafts.
Again, we forget that a lot depends on the initial planting material. Some manufacturers are now unscrupulous in the production of their goods. If the seeds are not very good or old, this can be seen both by germination and by the appearance of the plants that emerge from these seeds, they will be weak, with poor immunity, and only ideal care will allow them to survive and grow stronger. We will have to actively feed such seedlings and be sure to use products for improved root formation and immunity, so that the nutrients we add to the plant can be fully absorbed.
We talked about the lack of nutrients a little higher; peppers, as a rule, turn yellow. But sometimes obvious yellowness may not be observed. The shoots may simply be pale green, thin, weakened and slow to grow. In this case, it is better to immediately feed with complex fertilizers for seedlings.
If the seedlings were planted early in February-March, when the sunny day is not yet so long, and if the seedlings are placed on poorly lit windows (for example, north, east and west sides), then do not be surprised if the pepper seedlings become capricious , will grow frail, thin and greatly lengthened. Such plants are vulnerable to all diseases because their immunity is initially weakened. In such conditions, additional illumination with fluorescent lamps or red-blue spectrum lamps is simply necessary.
An important factor influencing the growth of seedlings is insufficient development of the root system. This is rather a consequence of the quality of the seeds and growing conditions (watering with cold water inhibits the development of roots), but again it leads to the fact that the seedlings look weak and grow slowly. In this case, it is necessary to use drugs that improve root growth and the general well-being of plants, such as Kornevin, Atlet, Zircon, Epin, Heteroauxin, Energen.
If your pepper seedlings are curling their leaves, you need to pay attention to the following factors.
In addition, the causes of curling can also be fungal diseases, which are also characterized by spots, blackening, gray or brown moldy spots that quickly grow and cause rotting. In this case, spraying with Fitosporin or another fungicide is indicated.
It is worse if the plant has become a victim of a viral disease. Such, for example, as tobacco mosaic, in which the leaves are curled into a boat, and the curling is accompanied by deformation, uneven spotty coloring, with chlorotic yellowness along the edges.
Tobacco mosaic in pepper
An equally unpleasant disease is phytoplasmosis (also known as stolbur), although it is not the most common. When it occurs, the pepper leaves twist upward, turn yellow and become deformed, and fruit formation is disrupted.
Phytoplasmosis (stolbur)
A damaged plant, even if it did not die immediately and survived, will no longer be able to produce a good harvest. Diseased plants are destroyed to avoid further infections.
If it is difficult for you to recognize what kind of disease has affected your seedlings, you can use the method of elimination. Treat seedlings comprehensively against pests and fungi.
In some cases, everything is not so serious and curling may be caused by improper feeding.
Pepper seedlings are sensitive to fertilizing. Sometimes it happens that purchased soil does not meet the requirements.
This entails uneven growth of leaf plates, their deformation; leaves may grow crooked, but at the same time they are green, healthy and shiny. The same thing happens if you overdo it with fertilizing, if its dosage is incorrect. These deformations do not lead to any critical consequences, and there is no need to fight them.
A lack of potassium may also be to blame for leaf curling. It can be replenished by adding wood ash or potassium nitrate under each bush.
Why do seemingly healthy green leaves suddenly begin to wither, dry out and fall off?
Unfortunately, Verticillium wilt and Fusarium wilt are two such diseases for which treatment is not effective. Seedlings exposed to these diseases rapidly wither, wither and die, sometimes even before they turn yellow. Infected plants are destroyed. Only multi-stage comprehensive preventive measures can save you from them. The diseases look approximately the same, the only difference is the pathogen.
Fusarium The leaves of pepper seedlings lose their elasticity both with insufficient moisture and with excess watering. Humidification needs to be adjusted.
And of course, the culprits of leaf lethargy can be pests that quietly draw juices from the plant. Check the seedlings for spider mites, aphids and other pests. If any are found, treat with insecticides.
Any spots on the leaves indicate a plant disease.
White spots with a brown border (pictured) are characteristic of the disease septoria. This is a fungal disease and needs to be combated with antifungal drugs.
The same is the case with powdery mildew of pepper - when whitish focal spots or white coating appear on the leaves, both on the outside and on the inside. Immediate treatment with fungicides is necessary.
Brown And black spots may be signs of bacterial spotting, dry spotting, and many other bacterial lesions. In this case, it is necessary to treat the seedlings with Phytoflavin.
Wet, brown and putrefactive spots appear when the disease is late blight; it is also fungal and the plants must be treated with drugs against the fungus.
In case of any disease, if part of the seedlings are still healthy, there is a good chance of saving it. Plants that have not yet been damaged are treated with antifungal drugs and antibiotics, the soil and planting container are completely replaced and pre-disinfected. After transplantation, the seedlings are treated with immune stimulants such as Epin.
The leaves of pepper seedlings turn yellow and become limp because the plant stops receiving nutrition because its stem rots at the base. The disease has a very clear localization; only the root area suffers and turns black.
As a rule, when infected with blackleg, young seedlings die. If large, well-developed seedlings are already sick, then the plants may survive, but their nutrition will be disrupted, and accordingly the yield will also be much lower.
This is an unpleasant disease caused by pathogenic fungi found in the soil. It is poor-quality, contaminated soil that causes the death of seedlings from blackleg.
And also, in many ways, the risk of disease is increased by excessive watering and inappropriate living conditions, and poor plant immunity.
Sprouts that have already been affected by the disease will have to be removed. Those that are still healthy must be urgently transplanted into another, previously disinfected, soil and another container, treating the seedlings and their roots with Fitosporin before planting. After transplantation, spraying with Epin or Zircon is indicated.
Of course, such a tenant needs to be driven out urgently with a filthy broom, otherwise, even if the bush survives this invasion, a good harvest may not be expected. Therefore, you should have some good insecticidal drug in your arsenal.
For example . It is the most harmless and can be used indoors, following the rules of safe use. It does not affect the future harvest, is biodegradable within 24 hours, and copes well with aphids.
But if you still prefer traditional methods of control rather than chemical ones, then these recipes for expelling aphids will be useful to you:
Detailed video on the topic of problems with seedlings and how to deal with them.
Most of the disgrace listed above can be avoided at the stage of preparation for sowing seedlings. Yes, this is exactly how, by following simple rules, you can protect your crops from most problems.
These apply to absolutely any seedlings. Follow these simple rules and your peppers will delight you with their health and wonderful harvest!
A lot of. Each should be dealt with separately in order to understand the reasons and provide the required assistance. Among the main reasons for the death of pepper seedlings are the following:
Why do pepper seedlings wither, what should I do? Quite often you can see such a picture. In the evening the seedlings were in good condition, and in the morning they all lay as if scalded with hot water. This phenomenon most often occurs in the south of Russia. Instant wilting is associated with bacterial infection.
It is impossible to advise anything other than replanting the seeds. If the planting time is even slightly missed, the seedlings will catch up in growth with the unaffected plants. Feeding with fertilizer will help with rapid growth.
Yellowing of pepper leaves can be caused by several reasons. The main ones are:
Have your pepper seedlings turned yellow? What to do in this case?
This phenomenon occurs most often when planting pepper seeds in individual small containers. The roots do not have enough space to develop, which results in a lack of nutrients in the leaves, and subsequently yellowing and falling of the leaves. Only replanting the plant with careful, complete unraveling of the root ball can help.
Pepper leaves may turn yellow due to lack of nutrients. As experienced gardeners say, most often yellowing associated with nitrogen deficiency. For more rapid feeding, spraying with ammonium nitrate solution is used. In this case, the leaves will quickly receive nitrogen, but you shouldn’t rely on it alone.
Feeding with preparations containing nitrogen, for example azogran in granules or urea, will help. It will be enough to add one granule to the ground next to the plant.
Important! Don't expect complete death of the seedlings. You need to find out the cause quickly and eliminate it. Show attention and care to the seedlings in a timely manner.
One of the reasons for yellowing of pepper leaves is lack of water during irrigation. According to scientists, pepper is more than 90% water. Seedlings tolerate a lack of moisture extremely poorly; first of all, the flowers and ovary begin to dry out and crumble, then the leaves.
Experienced gardeners, knowing this feature, water the seedlings very carefully, using water at room temperature. Cold water can also cause leaves to turn yellow and fall off.
The seedlings turn yellow, the leaves begin to die and fall off. Upon careful inspection, the constriction is clearly visible at ground level. This is the so-called “black leg”. The cause of infection is a soil-transmitted fungus; much less often, infection occurs through a planting container or pepper seeds.
Control measures include seed treatment before planting, disinfection of planting containers. If infection does occur, careful sampling and removal of affected plants is necessary. Treat the remaining seedlings with a preparation containing copper.
Attention! Purchase soil mixture only in specialized stores, otherwise there is a high risk of purchasing low-quality, poorly prepared soil.
Many gardeners are familiar with the phenomenon of deformation and. This is caused by the uneven development of the veins compared to the leaf tissue. No action required. Development will level out as the seedling grows.
It is much worse when the leaves curl, become pale green, and during further growth they dry out and fall off. Pepper seedlings disappear. It could be caused by potassium deficiency.
Feeding the seedlings with wood ash or potassium nitrate, which is diluted at the rate of 35-40 grams per bucket of water, will help.
Why do pepper seedlings lose leaves? Curling of leaves, drying out may occur due to defeat. Most often this occurs as a result of an attack. The leaves curl, dry, wither and fall off. When examining the affected leaves, it is clearly noticeable that they are entwined with cobwebs. Leaves are chewed and dry. All the juices have been sucked out of them.
The best option is to manually collect the affected leaves, followed by spraying the seedlings with Fitoverm.
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Fill the grooves with a layer of humus, soil or sand, about 0.5 cm, gently, compacting it lightly. All seeds should be covered with soil so that they cannot float after you water them. Moderately moisten the soil surface with a spray bottle and cover the seed boxes with cellophane or glass.
Grow
Not topping up. overflow little light - choose.
To prevent blackleg, fertilizing and watering are done only in the morning.
Side shoots and leaves are removed up to the first fork. If the bush is tall, it should be tied to a support, since the stem can be quite fragile.
If we talk about how many days it will take for peppers to sprout and how to ensure rapid germination, one important factor should always be taken into account. Peppers are a vegetable that need warm indoor temperatures. Therefore, for rapid germination of seedlings, provide at least +20 degrees.
Fill the hole a little more than halfway so that the bulk of the roots are covered. Water generously (about 1/3 of a bucket per hole. When the water is absorbed, fill the rest of the hole with loose soil. Immediately label the variety with the name of the variety.
Water carefully, holding the seedling until the water is completely saturated. Top up the soil if it has settled too much after watering.
Soil mixture for sowing peppers: thoroughly mix 2 parts of humus (it can be replaced with well-rotted compost), 2 parts of peat and 1 part of well-washed sand. Sift this mixture and steam for an hour in a double boiler to protect the seedlings from fungal diseases and weeds.
Growing pepper seedlings has its own characteristics. If there are errors with watering, sudden temperature fluctuations or unsuccessful replanting, the plant stems become coarser and their potential yield decreases. How to grow pepper seedlings correctly?
2. If the weather permits, the plants should be taken outdoors (week 7) for hardening, or at least use a fan indoors. This will also stop the stem from stretching.
For seed germination, warmth is required - 22-28 degrees Celsius. You can place the boxes near the radiator and just make sure the soil doesn't dry out. Pepper loves an abundance of light, and as soon as the sprouts appear from the ground, we place the boxes on a well-lit windowsill or under a lamp. 
seedlings of vegetable and flower crops at home 
Perhaps the tomatoes have been flooded, it’s not too late to plant again and water with more light first with a weak solution of manganese and fertilizer and flies will not fly
To prevent seedlings from stretching, artificially increase the length of daylight hours to 13-14 hours using fluorescent lamps. If conventional incandescent lamps are used for illumination, they should be installed no closer than 60 cm from the plants to avoid drying out the soil and burning the leaves. For the first three days after germination, seedlings are illuminated around the clock, then only in the morning and evening.
For a good and abundant harvest, watering is as necessary as fertilizing. Pepper loves moisture and has an almost constant need for it. Its root system is shallow. Therefore, often, especially in greenhouse conditions, the roots overheat.
Given that pepper is a rather capricious crop not only regarding temperature conditions, but also transplantation, it is advisable to immediately plant each seed in a separate pot. The ideal option is peat pots.
Mulch the plantings with peat. If necessary, tie the bushes to a support. If at night the temperature drops below +13...+14°C, cover the plants in arcs with non-woven covering material.
Install the seedlings on the windowsill, shading them from direct sunlight for the first time. Make sure that the soil in the pots does not cool below +15°C. At temperatures below +13°C, seedling growth stops. 
Sowing pepper seeds for seedlings
...
3. Give plants enough space to grow so they can grow widely. If they are forced to compete for a “place in the sun,” they will stretch out. Transplanting into a large enough pot will also provide additional space for roots to grow. 
Lamps for illumination will also be needed if your window sills are well lit, but in winter and early spring there is not enough daylight for the normal development of seedlings, so additional lighting will be needed. If the weather is cloudy, you will also need to turn on the lamp.
- it’s not only profitable, but also exciting. In addition, you will provide your vegetable garden or flower garden with varietal plants, which means you will receive maximum satisfaction of your needs. If you want to have exceptionally high-quality fruits from your plot, you need to take care of this now. Smart Tips will give you some useful tips and instructions for growing pepper seedlings at home.
There are empty seeds....overflow of seedlings....or land unsuitable for seedlings...
When the seedlings reach the desired size, you can easily transplant them into the greenhouse without disturbing the roots. If this is not possible, then be careful when picking. Try not to touch the roots of the plant again.
Read also:
How to feed pepper seedlings 
Rinse the sowing dish in a solution of potassium permanganate, fill it with the prepared soil mixture and compact it slightly so that the side of the dish rises about 2 cm above the soil.
If you allow the stem of a pepper to become lignified, it begins to grow worse in thickness (and subsequently, with abundant watering, it may crack). Such plants no longer produce a bountiful harvest, since their ovaries receive less nutrition. 
4. Organic fertilizer at the beginning of growth (4-5 weeks) will stop the stretching and make the stem more powerful. 
Pepper seedlings require a lot of water, more than tomato seedlings; its absence will negatively affect the size and taste of the fruits, which will be small, crooked and tasteless. Seedlings should be watered moderately but often, being careful not to let water get on the leaves. The soil under the peppers should be slightly moist (but not too wet) at all times. Water for irrigation should be warm (not lower than room temperature); seedlings can get sick and rot from too much cold water. 
Why is it with pepper that we begin to reveal the intricacies of agricultural technology for obtaining 
Is the stem not damaged?The pepper stems are fragile and handling them requires care. During the first days, the seedlings are lightly sprayed, later the seedlings are watered two to three times a week (in the morning, with tap water that has been separated from chlorine).
Let's draw conclusions. In order to get an early and abundant harvest of peppers, the following factors should be taken into account:
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So, now we know how long it takes for pepper to sprout and how to plant the seeds correctly. Next you need to figure out how to properly care for the seedlings before planting them in a greenhouse or greenhouse.
Before planting in the ground, peppers must be fed at least twice:
Spread the sprouted seeds with tweezers at a distance of 1.5-2 cm. There is no need to sow thicker: the pepper seedlings will shade each other and stretch out.
In addition, peppers are not resistant enough to root rot. If you pick it up, like other seedling vegetables, at the stage of two true leaves with depth down to the cotyledons, it stops growing, gets sick for a long time and may die from a fungal infection.
Daytime temperature is too high (above 35°C)
It is necessary to ensure that the air in the place where pepper seedlings grow is not too dry, so in houses where there are radiators, young plants should be sprayed every day, or an electric humidifier should be turned on. Don’t forget, peppers are afraid of drafts. Therefore, when you open a window or door, the seedlings need to be covered with a lid or plastic wrap.
seedlings at home
Could it be the black leg again? It can very quickly destroy seedlings.
Starting from the phase of two true leaves, the seedlings are fed two or three times at intervals of 8-10 days (bird droppings diluted in hot water 1:20, or complete mineral fertilizer). The soil in the pots is sprinkled with ash. When the seedlings stretch out, reduce watering to the limit and lower the temperature to +12...+15°C. Water the soil with infusion of ash, and spray the leaves with infusion of superphosphate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).
type of planting material (be sure to pay attention to what conditions this crop needs, how many days will it take for the pepper to sprout after planting the seeds, how resistant the plant is to disease);
If you focus all your attention only on why the pepper does not sprout, and after the seedlings appear, you only water the seedlings, then you can hardly expect a good harvest.
Go to the main article about pepper
2 weeks after the pick
Fill the soil mixture on top with a layer of 1-1.5 cm. Compact it a little. Water the pepper crops carefully, making sure that the seeds are not washed onto the surface of the soil. Place labels with the names of the varieties. To prevent moisture from evaporating too quickly, place the crops in a greenhouse or bag. The temperature must be maintained at +25°C.
In order to get a good harvest of pepper in a short summer, you have to sow it quite early and, until planting, ensure uniform development of the seedlings without stress and sudden changes in conditions. This is the main feature of a successful technology for growing pepper seedlings.
Night temperature too low (less than 1°C)
After the pepper seedlings reach the first pair of true leaves, you need to carefully pick the seedlings into separate pots (9 plastic cups), and then water the seedlings well. As the leaves close, the pots need to be moved apart in order to provide the plants with a sufficient amount of light and air. The first time this should be done when most of the seedlings have grown 3-4 true leaves, and the second time when there are already 5-6 true leaves.
. Yes, precisely because growing pepper seedlings is as easy as shelling pears. You don’t risk overexposing it, since pepper is a crop that has a long growing season. Pepper is the least demanding of all vegetable crops and the most resistant to both growing conditions and pests.
Damages the stem at the point where roots begin to grow.
If the seedlings stretch out and have a pale green color, it means they do not have enough nitrogen. Then dilute a tablespoon of urea or other nitrogen fertilizer in 10 liters of water and feed the plants. Then they are placed for 5-6 days in a cool place with a temperature of +8...+10°C. The bushes will stop growing, turn green, and can be returned to their original place.
conditions for the growth of seeds and seedlings;
Not only seeds, but also growing plants are very sensitive to cold. The temperature for peppers should be no lower than +20 during the day and +17 degrees at night. It is advisable to plant young seedlings in a greenhouse only after the threat of frost has passed. Also, consider the age of the plants. Those who have not yet reached the age of 60 days are very sensitive to temperature changes.
Before planting in the ground, pepper seedlings must be hardened. Hardening is carried out gradually, with increasing time spent outdoors in a place protected from the wind.
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Pepper seeds germinate at soil temperatures of 20-35 degrees Celsius. The ideal temperature is 30 degrees Celsius. This temperature is difficult to achieve without additional measures, even if the boxes with seedlings are indoors. The solution is to keep the seeds moist in a warm place until they germinate. For example, on a radiator.
Maybe she stood in a draft and caught a cold)
When seedlings become fattened and grow rapidly, there is excess nitrogen in the soil. In this case, feed three tablespoons of superphosphate per 10 liters of water. After feeding, a day later the seedlings are placed in a warm place with a temperature of +25°C during the day and +20...+22°C at night. After a week, the seedlings return to normal.
mandatory feeding;
When the plant acquires four true leaves, buds gradually begin to form. During this period, pepper seedlings should receive maximum lighting. With a lack of light, the leaves may begin to turn yellow, the plant becomes fragile, the first ovaries easily break off and fall off.
Seeds
Feeding is applied in liquid form. It is very convenient to use ready-made fertilizers for seedlings: Agricola, Krepysh, Fertika Lux, Mortar.
How to pick pepper correctly
Fruit ripening in peppers begins 100-150 days after emergence, and seedlings are planted at the age of 60 to 80 days, so it is best to start sowing on February 20 - March 10, depending on the variety. You can more accurately calculate the sowing time yourself, if you know the characteristics of the variety.
There is not enough light. Low light levels reduce fruiting.
When the earth is warmed up to 15 degrees Celsius, but not earlier than 60 days after germination, seedlings can be planted in open ground and always in a sunny place protected from the wind. In addition, their readiness for planting is determined by their appearance: seedlings that have already developed at least 7-8 true leaves (up to 10) are suitable for planting; sweet pepper seedlings have reached a height of 20 to 30 cm, and bitter pepper has 5 -6 true leaves and a height of 15-16 centimeters.
Germination usually takes 7 to 10 days. Some varieties germinate more slowly. To stimulate germination, pepper seeds are soaked for 5 minutes in a solution of saltpeter (potassium nitrate) or in a 5% solution of chlorine bleach. This breaks down the seed coat and activates enzymes that promote germination. So that your
You can speculate endlessly.
Most often from lack of light and fresh air. Additional light. It’s even better to put them in some kind of shelter during the day, such as a small greenhouse. The sun there warms the air to the desired temperature, even when it is not very warm in the open space.
regular watering;
In addition to providing lighting, it is imperative to fertilize young seedlings. Mineral or organic fertilizers should be applied once every 10 days. As plants begin to flower, they will require increased amounts of nitrogen. An important element in the formation of the ovary is potassium, which is necessary throughout the entire active period of pepper growth.
Today the choice of seeds in flower shops is huge. Before purchasing this or that variety, it is advisable to carefully read the information on the packaging. If you do not have a greenhouse, then it is better not to buy species intended for growing in them, since you will not get peppers of the taste and size that grow in such conditions.
At the end of spring, when some of the seedlings of other crops migrate to hardening, and space on the windowsill is freed up, the pepper seedlings need to be transferred to pots with a volume of 0.8-1 liters. With careful handling while preserving the earthen ball, the seedlings do not stop growing. The composition of the soil can be used the same as for sowing and picking, but there is no need to sift it: the lumpy structure allows air to pass better to the roots. Add 1 tablespoon of double superphosphate and 0.5 cups of wood ash or 3 tablespoons of special fertilizer for peppers and tomatoes “Signor Tomato” to a bucket of earthen mixture.
To reduce the risk of damage to plants by root rot, peppers are picked at the stage of two true leaves without deepening or by deepening no more than 0.5 cm. The reference books also recommend another method: picking seedlings at the cotyledon stage, when they can more easily tolerate picking. In this case, they can be buried down to the cotyledon leaves. The second method of picking pepper is more suitable for professional greenhouses, where immediately after emergence the temperature is reduced, the plants are provided with good lighting, and the seedlings form a short, dense subcotyledon. At home, the seedlings are in any case more elongated, so it is better to pick them using the first method.
How to prepare pepper seeds for sowing
The air is too dry. Very low humidity - fruiting decreases.
The age of the seedlings largely determines the time of appearance and the number of fruits. 80-90-day-old seedlings produce an earlier harvest than 60-day-old ones, whose yield is almost half as much. The seedlings should be well watered before planting so that the soil in the box softens well. But if you grow each plant separately in a pot, it is better to plant without destroying the earthen clod. In the garden bed where you plan to plant pepper seedlings, prepare the planting holes in advance and moisten the soil.
pepper seedlings
Light and warmth will save your seedlings. And there is no need to water. When the soil is almost completely dry, then water it.
In addition, it would be necessary to water and spray with FOUNDAZOL for fungi and rot. Water less and fertilize less.
timely removal of side shoots.
In order to harvest an early harvest, you need to know not only how many days it will take for the pepper to sprout, but also when it is best to plant the seedlings in a permanent place. Seeds begin to be sown for seedlings in late February or early March. How many days will it take for the pepper to sprout will depend primarily on the variety, germination, and growing conditions. The seeds of this vegetable take a long time to germinate, and the culture itself is quite capricious. Unlike tomatoes, peppers do not like transplanting. Therefore, if you simply plant the seed in prepared soil, it may take from one to three weeks before it germinates. 2 weeks before planting, begin hardening off the seedlings in the fresh air. When hardening, keep in mind that at first it must be shaded from direct sunlight and protected from drafts.
3-4 weeks after germination, 1-2 true leaves appear on the seedlings.Inspect the seeds, remove all puny and damaged ones. Treat selected pepper seeds against fungal infections. Soak them, placing them in a gauze bag, in a solution of any fungicide (Maxim, Fitosporin-M, Vitaros) according to the instructions. You can get by by soaking the seeds in a deep pink solution of potassium permanganate for 20-30 minutes. After potassium permanganate, rinse them thoroughly directly in the bags. Good results are obtained by soaking pepper seeds for 12 hours in Epin (1-2 drops per 100 ml of water). After this, spread the seeds between two layers of damp, clean cloth, cover so that the moisture does not evaporate quickly, and place in a warm place (+25°C). After 7-14 days, the seeds will sprout. Do not miss this moment, because the roots of peppers are very fragile, they painfully endure the slightest damage. You can learn more about dressing and soaking seeds, and treating them with stimulants by reading the article Preparing pepper seeds for sowing. Weak air circulation leads to a lack of pollination.
When planting pepper seedlings in open ground, you should not deepen them, otherwise they will get sick. It is best to plant it at the same depth at which it grew in the greenhouse or in the room. If you grew seedlings in peat pots, the best solution would be to plant them together with the pots. If the weather is very hot, sunny, during the first week after planting pepper seedlings in open ground, it should be slightly shaded until final establishment.
got the best start in life, let the tap water sit in a bucket for about two days so that the chlorine evaporates. You can also use a carbon filter. Maybe additional light burned (illuminated with a lamp) Good luck to you.
Taking into account all the factors and creating favorable conditions for vegetable crops, you can get a fairly early and rich harvest of peppers.
To obtain early harvests, plants are planted in a greenhouse after reaching the age of 65 days. The soil is pre-moistened and loosened. Peppers are planted to a depth of about 5 cm. The air temperature should be at least +15 degrees.
In order to speed up the process of seed germination, as well as grow strong seedlings, you should listen to experienced gardeners who give useful tips on growing peppers.
When and how to plant peppers in the ground
This is the best time to pick pepper at home.
How to prepare soil for pepper
Lack of pollinating insects.
The distance between the rows should be approximately 50 cm for hot peppers and 70 cm for sweet peppers. The distance between plants in one row is 40 cm.
To grow seedlings in a home greenhouse or room, seeds can be sown in standard seedling boxes, cups, or pots with a diameter of 10-15 cm. It is best to use purchased soil mixture for seedlings from well-established manufacturers. In such soil, the risk of plant root diseases is minimized. Carefully study the annotation on the package of the soil mixture, pay attention to the fact that the pH value is 6.4 to 6.8. For 10 liters of soil in the mixture for seedlings, 7-10 g of urea, 30-40 g of superphosphate, 10-15 g of potassium sulfate and 3 g of magnesium sulfate should be added.
Try to save with ZIRCON or EPIN.... According to the instructions. It always helps me. .
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Caring for seedlings
It is best to plant peppers in cloudy weather or in the evening. After planting, young plants need to be fed. Be sure to remember that fresh manure is unacceptable for this vegetable crop, but compost will work great.
In order for pepper seeds to germinate faster, they should first be washed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Next, place in warm water (but not hot) and keep in it for several hours. You can also use special preparations designed to increase the germination rate of seed material.
At the stage of formation of the first buds, seedlings can be planted in the ground if the average daily temperature is +15...+17°C.
Waten the soil in the bowl well in advance, wait for the excess water to drain into the pan. Pepper develops slowly, so it is better to pick it in small pots (100-150 ml). In them, seedlings quickly master the earthen ball, so the earth does not turn sour when watering and the roots are less susceptible to rot.
While the seeds are germinating, prepare the soil for sowing. You can use a ready-made mixture for sowing peppers, adding washed sand to it after sifting (about 0.5 parts per 3 parts soil). Experienced gardeners usually prepare the mixture for sowing themselves.
Too many harmful impurities in irrigation water.
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When picking, take the seedlings by the “ears” so as not to damage the stem. The hole in the pot should be such that the roots are located in it freely, without bends. Cover with soil and compact lightly. The root collar can be deepened a little, but no more than 0.5 cm.
Sowing pepper seeds and eggplant seedlings
Many vegetable growers begin planting their peppers in open ground quite early. They are in a hurry to get the harvest faster. However, it turns out badly. Elongated seedlings grow and spend time gaining strength. Only then does it form ovaries. Let's figure out why peppers grow and what to do to prevent seedlings from stretching.
There are many reasons why pepper seedlings stretch out. We will list the most basic ones.
Firstly, there is a lack of light. Many vegetable growers grow peppers on windowsills. At the same time, not everyone equips a source of additional light for the plant. And, as you know, this crop needs a lot of light, which is not so much at home.
Secondly, these are very early sowing dates. Pepper seedlings should be planted in mid-March - early April. In this case, the plant will be indoors for a month or a month and a half less. Still, she will be better on the street than at home.
The third reason is that the home environment is very hot and dry. Peppers need to be watered every day to prevent them from wilting. Therefore, the seedlings grow quickly. She does not have time to put nutrients into the stems, which is very bad. The optimal temperature for pepper sprouts is +20 degrees. Then you need to lower the temperature - harden the plant.
You can place the plantings on a glazed balcony if the temperature there does not drop below zero. Under such conditions, the seedlings will not stretch. All nutrients will be deposited in the stems of the plant. Naturally, at different temperatures (in the apartment and in the balcony) there should be different watering regimes. If the temperature is low, you need to water less.
Have the seedlings stretched out? This means that the reason may be dense sowing and lack of thinning. Beginner vegetable growers often sin with this. They plant all the seeds in one container. The sprouts begin to stretch immediately after emerging from the ground. They are fighting for their lives. This problem can be corrected by thinning. Leave a distance of three centimeters between the sprouts.
And finally, the last reason why the seedlings stretched out was late picking. The formation of leaves on seedlings is a sure sign that the plant’s root system has begun to form. Therefore, culture needs a lot of space. If this space is not enough, the pepper begins to stretch. We talked about the main reasons why seedlings stretch. Next you will learn how to correct the situation.
To prevent the plant from stretching, you need to plant the seeds correctly. How to do this correctly? First of all, choose a land. If you decide to purchase ready-made soil, pay attention to the composition of the soil. Peppers will not grow well in soil with a high content of minerals (especially nitrogen). Soil that is universal for all vegetables is well suited.
Seeds should be planted at a distance of three centimeters from each other. Try not to place many peppers on one windowsill. During the germination process, they will obscure each other and reach towards the sun.
In order for the plants to receive enough light, it is recommended to make reflectors: install a mirror opposite the window sill with plantings or place a sheet of foil that will reflect the sun's rays and direct them to the seedlings. This is necessary to ensure that all aspects of the crop consume light evenly. Otherwise, they will bend and turn, which will lead to damage to the seedlings.
If you pluck seedlings in a timely manner, you can stop their growth for a while. Typically, the plant can be planted in separate pots within 25 days from the moment the sprouts appear.
Please note that in prepared soil, seedlings appear much earlier. Therefore, it is better to be guided by the number of leaves on the seedlings. If at least one true leaf appears, the seedlings can be replanted.
You can start fertilizing after two leaves appear. Superphosphate fertilizers work well. The second feeding is done a week after transplanting the seedlings. The third time you need to feed the plant after transplanting the pepper into open ground.
If after transplantation the seedlings continue to stretch, it means that the place for growing is poorly chosen. Try placing the container of pepper in another room. The containers should not be close to each other. It also doesn’t hurt to reduce the frequency of watering. The optimal temperature for pepper during this growing period is + 16 degrees.
Seedlings grow poorly for several reasons:
Pepper grows well after plants such as onions, dill, carrots. It is not recommended to use soil for peppers after tomatoes, potatoes and eggplant. Purchasing ready-made soil is not a guarantee of quality. For example, some producers take soil from greenhouses where various plants have been grown throughout the year. Weed seeds and fungal diseases remain in such soil. That's why the pepper withers.
Do not overwater the seedlings. Abundance of water is a good environment for the development of fungal diseases. For preventive purposes, the land is treated with potassium permanganate. Peppers wither due to elevated air temperatures. Problems can also begin due to drafts.
However, the most common cause of wilting of pepper seedlings is a bacterial disease. In this case, the sprouts cannot be helped in any way. The only solution is to replant the planting material in the ground. Don't worry about planting the seeds too late. A little fertilizer - and the new seedlings will quickly catch up with their older brothers.
There are several reasons for this phenomenon:
If you plant the sprouts in separate small containers, the roots may become tangled or develop incorrectly. Due to lack of space, the plant also experiences a lack of nutrients. What to do? The problem can be solved by transplanting seedlings and untangling the root system.
Leaves may turn yellow due to a lack of nitrogen. Also, a similar phenomenon can be observed with a lack of water. By the way, pepper is 90% water. Therefore, seedlings do not tolerate drought well. Water for irrigation should be at room temperature. Otherwise, the leaves will begin to turn yellow and fall off.
Seedlings may turn yellow due to a fungal disease. For preventive purposes, treat the planting material and also treat the containers with disinfectants. If the plant is sick, then you need to carefully remove the infected shoots. Treat the remaining sprouts with a solution containing copper.
There are several factors why seedlings fall:
How to solve this problem? First, identify the reason for the fall of the seedlings. If 1-3 sprouts are damaged, then natural selection is to blame. These seedlings could not withstand the competition.
Carefully examine the root system of the fallen sprout. You may notice signs of fungal disease, rotting from frequent watering or drying out. Place peppers that are oversaturated with water or dehydrated in separate containers.
Try to choose the optimal watering. If you notice signs of a fungal disease, do not waste your energy on healing the plant. It is better to start saving healthy sprouts. First of all, change the soil. Then, for preventive purposes, treat the soil with fungicides or potassium permanganate. Sprinkle wood ash on top of the soil.
Thus, we told you why seedlings grow poorly. You also learned about what to do if the seedlings wither, turn yellow, stretch out, or fall. We hope that you will not encounter such problems again. And if they appear again, now you know how to deal with them.
Growing seedlings requires time and effort that must be constantly invested in caring for the pepper. Seedlings can disappear due to many different factors.
Many people will say that they learn from mistakes, but it is better to know how to prevent a mistake than to correct it later. Common omissions that can ruin your plants:
The most difficult thing is to buy healthy seeds that are collected from strong and resistant plants. You can strengthen the seeds by soaking them in a growth stimulator. One of the most common is “Epin”, 100 ml. water you will need 2 drops of the drug. Soak the seeds for 12-18 hours.
Caring for seedlings hides many nuances that need to be taken into account. Let's deal with the constant mistakes of agronomists.
To grow seedlings, it is necessary to create favorable conditions. It is best to grow plants in a greenhouse or small greenhouse, where you can create a cozy microclimate for peppers. Growing conditions:
Pepper seedlings are fragile organisms and therefore there is a possibility of diseases such as blackleg and fusarium.
The causative agents of Blackleg are always in the soil. Weakened plants are affected. Pepper seedlings represent an unstable, fragile organism that is attacked by various diseases. Not only are the bacteria in the ground, but the gardener himself can provoke the disease by watering the seedlings with cold water.
First, the subcotyledon begins to rot, which becomes thinner and turns brown, after which the tissues become watery and soft. The disease provokes:It is very easy to recognize a diseased plant. The main signs begin with darkening of the basal part of the stem, after which it begins to dry out and become thin. When seedlings are massively affected, they begin to fall.
Fusarium is a disease that can affect seedlings from the beginning of seed germination. The clinical picture of the disease: the pepper leaves begin to turn yellow at the bottom and wither; if you cut the stem, you can see a brown ring.
Blackleg disease can be cured using the following methods:
While blackleg can be cured, fusarium cannot be treated. To prevent all other plants from becoming infected, diseased peppers must be removed and destroyed.
It is not always possible to cure plants, so it is better to prevent the disease than to later lose the seedlings.
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