An experienced gardener will be able to glean a lot of useful information about the health and needs of the plants from the appearance of the eggplant bushes. Based on the condition of the leaves, one can judge the conditions of detention, errors in care, nutrition, diagnose diseases and identify pest damage.
One of the most common problems with eggplants is yellowing and wilting of leaves, which can occur due to several reasons.
Yellowing of eggplant leaves may be a natural reaction to the stress that the plant experiences when it finds itself in new conditions. If the leaves change color towards a yellow tint shortly after planting in the greenhouse, most likely there is no cause for concern - after about 2 weeks the acclimatization process will be completed and the bushes will return to their healthy appearance. In other cases, the yellow color of the leaves is a symptom of pathological processes that require the gardener to take action to restore the health of the plants.
In many ways, the condition of the bushes and the future harvest of eggplants is determined by the quality of care and the availability of conditions necessary for normal development. Yellowing and wilting of leaves in plants can be caused by:
With a lack of moisture, the plant does not send nutrients to the leaves, concentrating them in the more “important” parts - roots, stem, flowers, fruits. In this case, the leaves turn yellow and wither due to starvation. Withering and falling leaves can also be the result of rotting of the root system due to excessive waterlogging of the soil or watering with cold water.
The symptom may appear in eggplants growing on heavy and poor soils with high acidity. The worst option is peat soils. Plants love loose, well-aerated soils.
A sharp temperature change and an increase to +30°C have a detrimental effect on eggplants. In both cases, plant leaves may turn yellow and lose their elasticity. At the same time, both dry and hot air, when the high temperature is due to sunny and hot weather, and excess humidity, when the increase in temperature is associated with a lack of ventilation in the greenhouse, is harmful to the “little ones.”
In greenhouses, the crop often suffers from a lack of light. Yellowing of the leaves can also be a consequence of burns, including from phytolamps used to compensate for the lack of sunlight.
Advice!
You should not plant eggplants in an area where tomatoes, peppers or potatoes grew last season. After these crops, the soil must recover for at least 3 years before eggplants can be grown in this place. The optimal place for planting eggplants is former beds of cabbage, cucumbers, legumes, and perennial herbs.
The effects of pests and pathogens also affect the appearance of plants, including their foliage. Yellowing and wilting of eggplant leaves is one of the symptoms of diseases such as:
A fungal disease in which the symptom appears on the lower leaves. Fusarium affects the inside of the plant, disrupts the functioning of blood vessels, preventing the distribution of beneficial substances throughout the tissues and causing intoxication. Most often, the disease leads to the death of the bush, but in some cases the bush can continue to grow (but slowly) and even produce a small number of small fruits. Fusarium is provoked by: excess watering, increased soil acidity and high temperatures (+25...+28°C).
It usually appears during the period of fruit formation. First, the leaf segments on the lower tier of the bush turn yellow, then brown spots with a yellow rim appear on the leaf blades. The disease affects the vessels of the plant, preventing the movement of juices. The causative agent is a fungus that is activated by a lack of watering and temperatures around +16...+20°C. The disease often appears when excessive doses of nitrogen are applied in the form of root feeding with organic matter (manure is primarily dangerous).
A viral disease that often affects eggplants in greenhouses due to lack of light. Another factor that provokes the disease is a decrease in air temperature. Spots of lighter and darker shades of green form on the leaves; later the leaves turn yellow. The main consequence of the disease is stunting of fruit growth. Ripe eggplants have woody flesh.
Eggplants may respond by yellowing leaves to nutritional deficiencies of many elements, but most often the symptom indicates a deficiency:
Not only bad predecessors, even planting eggplants two years in a row in the same place greatly depletes the soil, depriving it of those nutrients that the plant most needs. If it is impossible to change the location of the beds, annual enrichment and improvement of the soil before planting is required.
Yellow leaves in eggplants are not a disease, but a symptom of some pathological process, so there are no general treatment measures in this case. It is necessary to eliminate the negative impact and take measures to eliminate its consequences.
If the cause of yellowing leaves lies in incorrect agricultural practices, in addition to correcting it, you need to support the plant’s strength and help it cope with stress. In this case, it is recommended to do one of the foliar feedings:
Fusarium spreads quickly throughout eggplant plantings, so it is important to remove affected areas of plants and all weeds from the area. Plant residues must be burned to prevent the spread of fungus. After this, the planting is treated with fungicides. “Fundazol”, “Benazol”, “Consento” are suitable.
Verticillium wilt is even more dangerous for eggplants; it is recommended to remove and burn diseased bushes. The remaining plants need to be treated with Vitaros, Consento, Topsin-M, and Previkur.
Both diseases cannot be cured with folk remedies, but regular treatment of plants that have not yet been infected will help curb the spread of the fungus throughout the eggplant bed. The most effective folk remedies against fusarium and verticillium:
There are no effective drugs against viruses, so the fight against tobacco mosaic consists of prevention and removal of diseased plants and weeds. It is recommended to treat healthy bushes with whey.
In the fight against spider mites, they try, if possible, not to resort to treatment with chemical insecticides. If the pest is slightly affected, it can be effectively removed with biological preparations - “Kraft”, “Bitoxibacillin”, “Kleschevit”. Folk remedies are also quite effective:
Healthy!
The most effective folk remedies against spider mites are a soap or alcohol solution (2 tablespoons of 96% alcohol per liter of water), as well as tobacco sticks (for fumigating a greenhouse).
In case of extensive pest damage, only treatment with specialized products will help - “Sunmite”, “Oberon”, “Aktellik”, “Neoron”, “Confidor”, “Flumite”.
If eggplants do not have enough nutrients, it is necessary to carry out foliar feeding. This method ensures that the necessary elements are received by the plant as quickly as possible, plus it eliminates possible difficulties in the absorption of substances due to the characteristics of the soil or growing conditions.
The main measure to prevent yellowing of eggplant leaves is to provide the plants with good care. Eggplants quickly react to the gardener’s mistakes not only by yellowing of the leaves, but also by the falling of flowers and ovaries; the harvest can be saved only by providing the plants with all the necessary conditions.
Basic measures to prevent the appearance of yellow leaves in eggplants:
On a note!
You should not plant eggplants near the entrance to the greenhouse - in this place the plants are most strongly affected by the temperature difference inside and outside the shelter.
Yellowing of leaves can be caused by a complex of reasons, which complicates diagnosis and selection of the correct treatment measures. Having discovered a disease or nutritional deficiency, it is necessary to critically evaluate the growing conditions, trying to provide an optimal environment for the plants. And vice versa, you should not rush to feed if the agricultural technology is not followed - first of all, you need to improve the conditions. This precaution will prevent excess nutrition of eggplants.
However, they still try to grow it in their garden, encountering problems with wilting, curling and damage to the vegetable. In this article, you will learn why leaves turn yellow, wither or become deformed, and also become familiar with the reasons for the slow growth of seedlings and the appearance of white spots on vegetables.
After the pick transplanting eggplant seedlings from a common box into individual pots, a problem may arise due to which the leaves begin to wither.
This is caused by damage to the roots during transplantation. In this case, the drug will save you. But before carrying out the procedure, inspect the roots. If they turn brown, it is better to transplant the eggplant into a large container and add the drug. They are capricious about the wind, even the lightest. Therefore, it is better to keep seedlings away from windows. If there is no such place, then for the time of ventilation it is better to move the box with vegetables to another warm place.
On forums you can often come across such a question as “ Why do eggplants fall?" It is the wind that causes this problem. Therefore, before planting in open ground, it should be hardened off. During this period, do not forget about, which will strengthen the seedlings for future “living” on the street. It is better to use , and .
Important! Add fertilizers according to dosage and instructions.
When growing vegetables in open ground, gardeners encounter the following problem: wilting eggplant leaves. This happens mainly during the day in sunlight, and in the morning they are restored.
Reasons for this problem some:
Did you know? Eating eggplant can help you get rid of nicotine addiction.
If there are none, then there are spots on the leaves and stems - these are burns from a lamp or sun. It is enough to simply move the plant away from the lamp or shade the shoots from sunlight using tulle. 
Spots on the leaves may appear due to an excess of fertilizers, especially potassium-calcium nitrate. You can get rid of this problem by using a weak solution of potassium permanganate and treating the leaves with a mixture and citric acid.
Leaves can become deformed for various reasons:
Eggplants love water very much., so due to lack of water their leaves may curl. In this regard, it is recommended to water the plants 3 times a week with settled water at room temperature. You should also periodically check the top layer of soil. If it's dry - water the seedlings.
Bad light also leads to deformation of seedling leaves. Therefore, you should make a daylight plan. The seedlings should stand in the sun for up to 12 hours, after which they must be sent to a dark place.
Mineral deficiency affects . This condition is caused by a lack of nitrogen, magnesium, phosphorus and potassium. You can replenish the supply of minerals with fertilizers. The main thing is not to overdo it.
Soil salinity. This problem occurs when there is an excess of fertilizers. The plant begins to wither, and the leaves curl and dry out. To get rid of this problem, just rinse the soil with clean water.
Did you know? Eggplant juice helps get rid of toothache and bleeding gums.
Seedlings collect nutrients from the soil that are necessary for growth and development. However, many beginners do not know why eggplants turn yellow. 
This happens because vegetables need a microelement such as molybdenum. You can replenish the supply using the Sudarushka fertilizer for nightshade crops. Fertilizing will have a good effect on the seedlings and the fruits will stop turning yellow.
Eggplants, being very sensitive plants, react quite vividly and sharply to any changes in soil, air, and water. A step to the right, a step to the left and that’s it - the leaves turn yellow, curl, the inflorescences fall off, the local end of the world for eggplants. In this article we will figure out why eggplant leaves wither in the open ground, in a greenhouse, and also what to do about it.
Growing in a greenhouse, eggplants are practically not exposed to negative external conditions, such as strong wind, hail, rain, scorching sun, birds and most insects. However, there are a lot of dangers that affect the appearance of the plant and inside the greenhouse.
First of all, the leaves may wilt due to too high a temperature in the greenhouse. Despite the fact that eggplant is a heat-loving crop, an increase in temperature above 30°C has a negative effect on the functioning of the plant. Dry hot air causes the leaf blades to first wither and then die.
Lack of moisture in the soil is another reason for this behavior of eggplants. In order for all vegetative processes to work as expected, the vegetable needs regular watering with warm water. Without saturating it with moisture, nutrients and liquid are concentrated in the stems, roots and inflorescences.
An acute shortage of nitrogen fertilizers leads to the fact that eggplant leaves are depleted and do not receive the necessary complex of microelements to maintain a healthy shape. Nitrogen acts as a stimulant and regulator of adequate distribution of nutrients in any plant, so its deficiency disrupts the working pattern of eggplant development.
Do not rule out leaf wilting as a consequence of plant replanting. Since the growing conditions in pots at home and in the soil in a greenhouse are different, the plant must go through a period of adaptation and acclimatization. Once the eggplant has established itself in the new soil, the leaves will become vigorous and green again.
The composition of the soil can also cause wilting. Eggplants grow well in crumbly soil with a high content of mineral and organic fertilizers. However, they do not take root very well in beds where tomatoes, potatoes, and peppers previously grew.
This video talks about ways to successfully grow eggplants.
What should you do if the eggplant leaves are withering? First of all, try to identify the cause or their complex, which thus harms the plant. If the air temperature is high, regular ventilation should be carried out in the greenhouse in order to naturally lower it. To enhance the effect, you can place containers with cold water around the perimeter of the greenhouse. As the water evaporates, the air will cool and also become humidified, which will undoubtedly have a positive effect on the growth of eggplants.
Insufficient watering and the use of cold water, as the cause of leaf wilting, requires a complete change in the gardener's habits. When planting a crop that loves abundant moisture, you should ensure that the soil does not dry out. As for the temperature of the water, focus primarily on the temperature of the earth. A significant difference in temperature leads to the development of fungal microflora, which provokes diseases such as: powdery mildew, downy mildew, anthracnose, copperhead, root and gray rot. This causes enormous damage to the eggplant’s root system; it can begin to rot. Remember - the water temperature should be equal to or slightly higher than the temperature of the ground in the greenhouse.
When growing absolutely any crops in a greenhouse, monitor the composition of fertilizers that are in the soil. Since mineral and organic materials make up the lion's share of healthy eggplant growth, a deficiency can have dire consequences. In case of nitrogen deficiency, it is important to carry out foliar or root feeding. Mix 3 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate in 10 liters of water. Afterwards, water the plants in the greenhouse, at the rate of no more than 1 liter of liquid fertilizer per bush.
Be sure to follow crop rotation: do not plant eggplants twice in the same place or after potatoes, tomatoes, peppers. Cabbage and cucumbers are considered the best predecessors of eggplant. If you have lost sight of this point, then foliar fertilize the plants with organic fertilizers: chicken manure extract, boric acid, yeast solution.
When fungal diseases develop, it is necessary to treat all plants in the greenhouse with fungicidal preparations, for example, “Topsin-M”, “Trichodermin”, “Fitosporin”, etc. Depending on the type of disease, auxiliary treatment methods vary. So, with fusarium and late blight, it is important to remove all weeds, infected leaves and shoots, and then treat the plant with chemicals and onion peel infusion. For different types of rot (gray, white, root) - remove damaged parts of eggplants, treat the plants with Horus, Antrakol. In any case, it is important to monitor soil moisture, normal access to light and fertilizers.
The following are used as folk remedies to combat fungal diseases:
Methods for growing eggplants in a greenhouse are discussed in detail in this video.
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Perhaps some have tried to grow eggplants on their own plot. But, having failed, they gave up this activity, preferring to buy the “little blue” ones in the store. However, knowing agricultural technology and some of the subtleties of growing this crop, you can get very good yields.
Success in growing any gardening plants depends on the chosen variety: whether it is suitable for your area or not, how early or late production it produces, how it will be grown - open or in greenhouses, etc. If eggplant is planned to be planted in the area with a moderately warm climate, it is better to choose early-ripening varieties with medium-sized fruits. Almost throughout the entire territory of Russia, the Epic F1 variety feels good: it produces its first harvest within 2 months from the start of planting. This variety is distinguished by its high yield, evenness of fruits and resistance to many diseases.
For those who love non-standard shapes, we can recommend planting the varieties Czech Early, Fat Barin, Black Moon - their fruits are spherical or ovoid in shape. The largest fruits, weighing up to 1.5 kg, are produced by the new hybrid Clorinda. Recently, they have become especially popular white eggplants: they are practically not bitter, have fleshy pulp, almost devoid of seeds, and taste like champignons. Varieties of white eggplants: Swan, Ping Pong, Pelican, White Egg.
“Sinenki” are very demanding on the composition and fertility of the soil. They are suitable for loamy or sandy loamy soils. On heavy soils, they grow very poorly and produce a small harvest. Tip: you can “lighten” the soil with river sand, chopped straw or sawdust.
It is better to apply them in the fall. Adding compost and humus will also have a beneficial effect on the quality of the soil. In the spring, when digging, you need to add 300-500 grams of ash. or 50-150 gr. superphosphate per 1 sq. m.
Eggplant is a rather capricious plant and requires adherence to the principles of crop rotation. It is best to plant it in areas where legumes, cabbage, melons, and cucumbers grew. Somewhat worse predecessors are table root vegetables.
You cannot plant eggplants after peppers and tomatoes: moreover, at least 3-4 years must pass after growing these crops in the selected area.
Since eggplants have a fairly long ripening period (90-140 days), they are grown exclusively by seedlings. Gardeners should be warned right away: forget about the old “grandmother’s” method of growing seedlings in boxes. In this way, it will not be possible to obtain strong and high-quality seedlings. Eggplants do not like transplanting, so it is better to grow them in separate plastic or peat cups and cassettes. First, you need to prepare the soil: garden soil, sand and ready-made store-bought soil are taken in equal parts.
You can add vermiculite - according to reviews from gardeners, the result is excellent. The soil needs to be moistened: if you are using unsprouted seeds, try moistening the soil in cups with snow - this method allows you to grow strong seedlings. Tip: eggplant seeds germinate very poorly.
To improve germination, you need to soak them for 24 hours in aloe juice. You can also soak them in a solution of hydrogen peroxide: 3 ml of peroxide per 100 ml of water, heat to 40 C and hold the seeds in this solution for 10 minutes. Place 1 seed in each glass.
Attention: if you use cassettes for seedlings, plant seeds of the same variety in 1 cassette. Because the germination time for different varieties is different and earlier seedlings will “clog” newly hatched eggplants of later varieties. Sowing time depends on the region: usually the end of February - the very beginning of March.
After planting the seeds, you need to cover the containers with film and put them in a warm place. The required temperature during the germination period is 25-28°C. As soon as the sprouts hatch, the film must be removed; the temperature can be lowered in the first week to 16-17°C during the day and 13-14°C at night.
Then grow the seedlings at a daytime temperature of 25-27°C and a night temperature of 13-14°C. Such a difference between day and night temperatures is necessary to prepare the seedlings for planting in open ground. Care consists of watering, light loosening and fertilizing with fluoride-containing fertilizers (for example, Crystalon is suitable). Fertilizing is carried out while watering the plants.
Young shoots are very demanding on nutrition and if there is a lack of microelements in the soil, the plant begins to “pull” useful substances from its own lower leaves. As a result, the leaves turn pale and gradually turn yellow. Urgent intervention and good feeding are needed.
Any balanced fertilizer for seedlings that is sold in stores will do. If you didn’t pay attention and the lower leaves are already severely damaged, they will fall off, but you will be able to save the plant. Usually this problem arises when growing in peat pots, when gardeners rely on their nutritional value.
Eggplants are very voracious in this regard and require constant mineral supplements. And peat alone cannot satisfy all their nutritional needs.
The problem may be either insufficient watering or waterlogging and acidification of the soil. If there is a musty smell coming from the soil, carefully remove the seedling from the pot along with a lump of earth and look at the condition of the roots.
If the roots are not white, move on to more moderate watering. Seedlings can also wither if the roots are cold. This often happens when seedlings are standing on a windowsill and cold air comes from the window.
It is heavier than warm water and spreads below, just at the level of plant roots. Place the seedlings higher - on a tray, for example, to balance the temperature at both the roots of the plants and the leaves.
Sometimes seedlings are affected by mites or whiteflies. This may be due to a lack of watering and air humidity - it is in such conditions that pests reproduce best. It is necessary to treat the leaves with Aktara.
Also monitor the humidity: regularly spray young seedlings with a fine sprayer. Moreover, direct the stream to the side and upward so that large drops do not form on the leaves.
Ready seedlings are planted in a permanent place, starting from the end of May, when the time for return frosts has passed. Choose places on the site that are protected from drafts and open to the sun.
Make holes, water well, plant seedlings in the mud, compact them, mulch with peat or dry soil. The distance between plants is 30-40 cm, between rows 60 cm. If you are planting tall varieties, then make the distance between holes 50 cm.
Early ripening varieties are usually planted in open ground. At first, the seedlings need to be insulated, preferably with double film. The “blue ones” are very afraid of cold weather; at prolonged temperatures of about 10°C, the plants die. Therefore, it is very important to provide them with a warm and humid growing environment.
What not to do when growing eggplants:
This is the most convenient way to grow this crop. Simply because in the greenhouse it is possible to provide the required temperature and humidity, which is very important for the “little blue” whims. Otherwise, the growing technology is no different from open ground. Although, there are a number of diseases that affect eggplants in greenhouses.
Most often, the “blue” crops are attacked by hordes of the Colorado potato beetle, which almost completely eat up the bushes in a matter of days. You can treat the plants with standard beetle repellents, or you can use traditional proven methods. Tip: to protect the eggplant from the Colorado potato beetle, you can sprinkle the plant with salted flour (for example, what you have left over after frying fish). Sprinkle the plant itself and onto the ground under the roots. You can scatter wet wood ash between the rows and periodically sprinkle it with water - the smell repels pests. If the eggplant is attacked by bugs, you can use the drug Prestige, diluting 1:1 and spraying the plants. That's probably all subtleties and secrets of growing such a tasty and healthy vegetable as eggplant.
Eggplant is a plant of the nightshade family native to India. It is considered one of the most difficult crops to grow. Eggplants are demanding on air temperature and soil fertility, do not like high humidity, and cannot tolerate shading or temperature changes.
Temperatures 5-7 degrees below optimal, or 10 degrees above, within a week lead to massive loss of ovaries on plants. Poor ventilation of the greenhouse also leads to disastrous results, as does the wrong method of watering. Anyone who knows how to grow eggplants is rightly considered an ace among gardeners.
One hundred and ten days is how long it takes an eggplant to go from germination to fruit ripening. Growing eggplants in open ground in our conditions means wasting time. But a polycarbonate greenhouse is a completely different matter, here we have every chance of success.
We put turf soil in the beds, or even better - earth from under the bird cherry, and humus in equal parts. Mix everything thoroughly, add a little complex fertilizer, according to the rate indicated on their packaging. You cannot grow eggplants on the soil on which they previously grew: tomatoes, potatoes, physalis, peppers.
These plants suffer from the same diseases and are affected by the same pests. In the fall, just before the frosts, in the greenhouse between the ridges we dig a trench half a meter deep and one and a half spade width. We put biofuel there - manure, compost, fallen leaves.
We cover the trench with two layers of old roofing material so that the heat does not evaporate directly to the top, but diverges to the sides, towards the beds. And add more soil on top. So far, our biofuel “reactor” is not working. We’ll tell you below how to launch it exactly at the time we need.
In the meantime, we are leaving the greenhouse until spring. Don't forget to put supports under the arches so that heavy snow does not push through the polycarbonate.
Seeds begin to be prepared for planting in the third decade of February, at the same time as pepper seeds. The easiest way to prepare seeds is soaking them in melt water.
The water, although melted, should be heated to 25-27 degrees. 25-27 degrees Celsius is the optimal temperature for the development of eggplant. Now these numbers, 25-27, will accompany you until the harvest. As soon as the seeds swell and begin to sprout, plant them in seedling cups, 2-3 each to be sure. for one place.
You can buy ready-made peat cups. Or take disposable plastic ones. It is convenient to place plastic cups side by side: we pierce the bottom in the top one to drain excess water, and pour 2-3 cm of sand into the bottom one. For better germination, we cover the cups with transparent film.
After 2 weeks, shoots will appear, we leave one of the strongest ones, we pinch off the rest (and do not pull them out by the roots!). We provide the seedlings with optimal lighting; fluorescent lamps are suitable for this.
While the seedlings are growing, it’s time to prepare the greenhouse. We will need 0.5 kg of quicklime, we take it with us. The greenhouse is intact, the polycarbonate too, you can remove the supports.
Where we have biofuel deposited since the fall, we use a crowbar to make holes as deep as we can, every 30-40 cm. We throw quicklime into these wells and pour water. Warm-up has started.
Now you can wipe the polycarbonate on our greenhouse with a soft cloth, or wash it with warm water and soap to remove the dust accumulated over the winter. Polycarbonate should absolutely not be wiped with abrasive substances, scraped, cleaned with a hard brush, etc. The UF protection will be damaged, and the polycarbonate in this place will begin to deteriorate from the sun. We will know that the biofuel has started working when the polycarbonate fogs up from the inside. This means that seedlings have to be planted.
Healthy, strong seedlings, ready for planting, should have shiny dark green leaves, a strong stem, and a height of 15-25 cm. Planting is done at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. Do not bury the root collar deeper than a centimeter into the soil.
When planting, you can use the following technique: Take an old covering non-woven material. Placed on the soil in the greenhouse. In the places where the eggplants will be planted, we make a crosswise cut in the fabric, and planting is done in it.
In this way, we achieve two goals at once: we avoid the appearance of weeds between the eggplant bushes, and reduce the evaporation of moisture from the soil. Eggplants love dry air and at the same time moist soil. In the greenhouse we maintain the same temperature that is comfortable for plants - 25-27 degrees. Find out how to regulate the temperature in a polycarbonate greenhouse in our article.
Do not allow moisture to settle on the polycarbonate as condensation. Depending on the variety, your eggplants can grow up to 1.5 meters tall. You should select the eggplant varieties that are suitable for you in advance. Tall eggplants are tied up.
Excess leaves (usually the lower ones) are cut off (you should not break off or tear them off, you will injure the plant). The trunk of the eggplant is formed into two stems, cutting off all the other stepsons. By following all the rules for growing eggplants in a polycarbonate greenhouse, you can achieve a harvest like this: photo. Find out how to prepare delicious and healthy dishes from eggplants.
growing eggplants in a greenhouse Growing eggplants in the country, like other crops, has long become a classic for every summer resident. But, the time comes when the plants in the sunny garden just wither and dry out - autumn. It is during this period that we transfer all our worries to the greenhouse, where we take care of the plants and continue to receive tasty and fresh fruits from them. Today we decided to talk to you about eggplants and tell you how exactly this crop is grown in a greenhouse.
Content:
One of the most necessary processes. Any experienced gardener understands perfectly well that it is simply impossible to plant plants in the same soil for several years. The soil needs to be renewed and fertilized, given a rest, only in this case it will become fertile again and will be able to show good results. The situation with eggplants is very similar - the area for the crop should be changed. It is necessary to remove all plant debris and thoroughly water the soil several times to wash away possible fertilizer residues. Don’t forget to disinfect the soil for planting eggplants; this can be done using a solution of copper sulfate (2 tablespoons per bucket of hot water). After cultivating the soil, you need to give it a little time to dry and carefully dig it up to a bayonet depth. Find out how to cheaply and quickly make a roof for a country house
Eggplants are quite good at organic matter, so add manure or compost humus to the soil (half a bucket per 1 m?). To reduce the acidity of the soil, add dolomite flour to it (2 tbsp. l per 1 m?). Dolomite flour, in addition to calcium, also contains magnesium, which is necessary for the proper growth of eggplants. No less useful will be adding low-lying peat to the soil for planting eggplants, which retains moisture well. If you need to loosen the soil, you can add a small amount of sawdust or sand, and also add 1 tbsp for each meter of planting. l. magnesium sulfate and 1 glass of ash. Based on these dosages and the total area of the greenhouse, you can immediately prepare the entire amount of fertilizer, which will greatly facilitate the work. If you do not have the opportunity to properly fertilize the entire bed, apply fertilizer directly to each hole, and then fertilize the eggplants during the growing season. But remember, this method has a slightly worse effect on plants. Do not forget about a complex of mineral fertilizers, which can be purchased on the market or in a specialized store. Such a complex will already be correctly balanced and all you have to do is add it to the soil. Fertilizers saturate the soil well at temperatures above +13+15 degrees Celsius, so fertilized areas can be covered with plastic film. The soil should be warm and at the time of planting eggplant, at a depth of 20 cm its temperature should be at least +15 degrees Celsius.
Before you start planting seedlings, the soil needs to be slightly prepared. It should be leveled and the holes should be marked. The distance between eggplant bushes should be at least 45 cm, between rows, about 60 cm. Each hole is spilled with a handful of ash, thoroughly mixed with planting soil, and also spilled with water, 1.5 liters per hole. Try not to damage the root system of the plants. Be sure to water the prepared seedlings several hours before planting so that the earthen ball does not fall off the roots. It is worth planting seedlings 1-2 cm deeper than they grew in the primary zone or box. Having planted the seedlings in the soil, the soil around them becomes compacted and is slightly shed with water. To prevent the formation of an earthen crust after planting, you should sprinkle the top layer with humus or peat. On the hottest days, until the seedlings have matured, they should be shaded by covering the greenhouse cover with fabric or creating arcs with shadow over the bed.
Eggplants prefer regular watering, as they need more moisture than crops such as bell peppers. With a lack of moisture, the flowering falls off and the fruits noticeably decrease. Also remember that the culture does not like cold water. Watering should be carried out with warm water, the temperature of which is not lower than +22+23 degrees Celsius. The first watering of seedlings occurs approximately on the fifth day, then once a week. Water must penetrate into the soil to the depth of the entire root system, at least 20 cm. During the fruiting period, eggplants are watered 2 times a week, more often if the weather is hot. When watering, it is advisable not to wet the eggplant leaves; after watering, be sure to loosen the soil (after 10-12 hours).Eggplants in a greenhouse prefer high soil moisture and low air humidity. Therefore, watering occurs in the morning, then it is necessary to mulch the soil and ventilate the greenhouse. High air humidity in the greenhouse has a bad effect on the growth of eggplants and can contribute to the development of diseases.
Caring for eggplants in a greenhouse also involves constant feeding of the plants. They are produced 3-4 times per season, the frequency depends on the condition of the crop. The first feeding is carried out 12-20 days after planting the seedlings. This period is necessary for the plant to take root and for the root system to absorb nutrients with maximum effect. Before fruiting, eggplants are fed with microelements, mineral and complex fertilizers (Kemira or Mortar, 1 tbsp per bucket of water), during fruiting - nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizers (1 tbsp. superphosphate and 1 tbsp. ammonium nitrate per bucket of water). Do not overuse organic matter, as this can negatively affect the harvest - eggplants will grow to the detriment of flowering and fruit development. Try to alternate small portions of organic matter with mineral fertilizers; this will be the best way to fertilize. From organic matter, you can use fermented grass or Biud, made from mullein. During fruiting, sprinkle the rows of eggplants with wood ash; towards the end of this period, use potassium sulfate in a small dosage (no more than 1 teaspoon per bucket of water).
Increased soil moisture in a greenhouse, along with lower temperatures, can cause a decrease in eggplant root activity. At this point, it is worth fertilizing with microelements.
Also, do not forget to feed the eggplants with magnesium sulfate. Growing eggplants in a greenhouse is not an easy process, especially if you pay attention to feeding and schedules. But it is not at all necessary to follow them; the scheme can be violated by simply observing the plants and applying fertilizing at the right time, and not according to a clear schedule.
Staking eggplants in a greenhouse is mandatory, since the plants grow larger than in open ground and they are more fragile. Eggplants are tied to a trellis, sometimes even in several places, but this method can shade the plant, which is undesirable. Low grade eggplants that do not need to be shaped are often grown in a greenhouse.
But if the varieties are tall, then the formation of bushes is mandatory. The side shoots on the main stem are removed, leaving only a few of the strongest ones on the bush. Below the remaining shoots, all shoots are removed from the trunk. Pinching is not used for eggplants; only limp and yellow leaves are removed from the trunk, as well as underdeveloped fruits. Towards the end of the eggplant growing season, they are pinched, leaving only 5-6 ovaries. the rest of them simply will not have time to form before the end of the season, and will simply draw nutrients onto themselves to the detriment of the rest of the fruits.
The main diseases of eggplants in greenhouses are late blight and tobacco mosaic. It is possible to prevent their development with the help of special preparations, for example, “Zircon” and “Fitosporin”.
Rotting of plants is prevented by basic ventilation of the greenhouse, which must be done regularly to reduce air humidity. Pests of eggplants in a greenhouse are spider mites, Colorado potato beetles, whiteflies and aphids. Chemicals can be used against them, but since they are well absorbed by plants, if possible, it is necessary to collect insects by hand.
Glue traps, which are safe for humans, will also help. You can also carry out prevention throughout the season by spraying eggplants with specially designed preparations. We also recommend that you read the special article “Diseases of vegetables in greenhouses.”
Not only eggplants, but also peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers and other crops can suffer from wilting. A sign of the disease is wilting of leaves, even with regular watering - this disease is called fusarium wilt.
Every gardener, in order to get a good harvest, carefully looks after the vegetable crops in the beds, but sometimes this is not enough, the plants get sick, how to save the harvest and cure garden crops, read on.
When an eggplant disease occurs, the lower leaves of the plant wither first., then the process of drooping leaves rises higher, buds and flowers may fall off. Eggplant wilting persists even with abundant watering. Withered leaves gradually turn yellow and dry out.
If fusarium wilt affects seedlings, young plants may dry out completely. When adult eggplant bushes begin to wither, they may be sick until the end of the season; new leaves will grow instead of withered ones, but a good harvest cannot be obtained from diseased bushes; the fruits are few and small.
Fusarium wilt is caused by a fungus , which penetrates the plant through absorbent root hairs. A mycelium develops inside the plant, which releases toxins, the plant’s vessels become clogged, the access of nutrients to the upper part of the plant is disrupted, the leaves are the first to suffer, and they quickly wither. If you cut the stem of a diseased plant at the base, then dark spots or a ring will be visible on the cut - areas affected by the fungus.
The fungus that causes Fusarium wilt of plants remains in the soil and becomes active when the temperature rises above +25 degrees , the rapid development of pathogenic microorganisms is facilitated by increased soil acidity. When unfavorable conditions occur and the temperature drops, the fungus becomes inactive and can persist in the form of spores for up to 10 years. Plants can become infected not only through the soil, but also through seeds and plant debris from diseased plants, on which fungal spores can persist.
There is another eggplant disease - verticillium wilt. . The causative agent of Verticillium wilt is another type of fungus; it also penetrates the plant through the roots and clogs the vessels during its development.
Verticillium wilt disease of eggplant usually begins during the period of fruit growth. Plant leaves turn yellow in parts, then brown spots with a yellow edge appear on them, and the affected leaves curl. The diseased plant looks depressed, acquires a grayish tint, and gradually fades; if you cut the stem at the base, you can see a dark ring of affected vessels with mycelium.
Verticillium wilt of plants can be observed at temperatures from +16 to +20 degrees with a neutral soil reaction.
Prevention and treatment of plants from wilting:
To prevent the occurrence of plant wilting disease caused by one or another type of fungus, the area should be thoroughly cleaned of plant debris and the tops of diseased plants should be burned.
After the appearance of Fusarium wilt in plants, it is recommended to lime the soil; if the reaction is neutral, this fungus does not develop well.
Spores of pathogenic fungi can persist in the ground for several years, so the soil for seedlings in greenhouses is disinfected or changed.
Follow the rules of crop rotation.
To prevent infection from entering your garden, disinfect all seeds not purchased from trusted manufacturers.
Mulching the ridges will reduce the rate of development of pathogenic fungi in the soil, since the soil will not overheat, dry out, and a crust will not form on the surface, preventing air access to the roots.
- To cure eggplants and other vegetable crops from wilting , prevent the disease from spreading and preserve the harvest, water the ridges with a fungicidal preparation. There are chemical fungicides (a chemical compound is used) and biological, based on bacteria that destroy pathogenic fungi.
Chemical fungicides- “Fundazol”, “Maxim”.
Biological agents, which improve the soil microflora - “Previkur”, “Fitosporin”, “Trichoderma”, “Trichofyte”, “Gamair”.
The preparations are diluted in water according to the instructions and spilled on diseased plants or for prevention.
