How to grow large onions. And also to be stored for a long time! I'm not much of a gardener yet. But my onions are growing just fine. And one neighbor at the dacha taught him how to care for it: everyone is jealous of her harvests! So I want to tell you how this is done. So to speak, let the neighbor’s secrets into the masses. The first secret. Onions do not like clay soil, if you have one, you need to pour sand and peat into the garden bed and mix everything. You also need slightly alkaline soil; if you have acidic soil, be sure to add dolomite flour in the fall (it’s too late to do this in the spring) to deoxidize it. The second secret. When planting seedlings, you need to immerse it in a solution of potassium permanganate for 10-20 minutes to disinfect the planting material. The third secret. Then you need to trim the top so that the onion germinates faster. The fourth secret. Sprinkle a little regular salt into the row, it will help in the fight against onion flies. Secret five. Be sure to plant a bed of carrots next to the onion bed, which will again repel the onion fly. And the onion, in turn, repels the carrot fly. So to speak, the benefit is mutual. Onions and carrots should grow side by side! Secret six. Make three feedings. 1st - in the phase of two leaves - slurry (1 liter of manure per bucket of water) or chicken droppings (1 glass per bucket of water) + 30-40 g of superphosphate, previously dissolved in warm water, + a glass of ash. 2nd feeding after two weeks: superphosphate – 30 g + urea 10 g + potassium 5 g per bucket of water. 3rd feeding - at the end of June - superphosphate 30 g + urea 10 g + potassium 5 g. If you feed in early July, exclude nitrogen (urea). And in no case allow excess nitrogen fertilizers; the feathers will be good, but the heads will suffer. Of the potash fertilizers, potassium sulfate is best suited, since onions are demanding of sulfur. And the preservation of onions depends on potassium. It's still in the ashes. The seventh secret. Under no circumstances use fresh manure and potassium chloride in fertilizing (if you add it, do so only in the fall) - you will immediately reduce your yields. Do not neglect phosphorus - the size of the bulbs largely depends on it. Drying onions correctly! Secret eight. Very important because we all want onions to last as long as possible. So, for this to happen, it is necessary to remove onions in central Russia and Belarus in a timely manner, namely before the first August rains. The best time is at the end of July. If you are late, you will spoil not only your onions, but also the reputation of a good gardener - nothing will help preserve the onions for a really long time. The ninth secret. Of course, you need to dry the onions as best as possible in the attic, where the wind blows. Then remove all the dried dirt, cut off the dried feather, leaving 8-10 cm. Secret tenth. I also recommend sorting out the onions from time to time. If at least one suddenly goes bad, others will start to go bad as well.
Comments 4
Classes 114
13 comments
Classes 546
IF GARLIC TURNS YELLOWING Causes of yellowing Yellowing of the tips of the leaves of both winter and spring garlic is observed almost every year. The reasons may be a lack of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, both in cold rainy weather and lack of moisture on hot days. Control measures As soon as the garlic begins to turn yellow, it is necessary to loosen the soil - to give the roots an influx of oxygen. It is very important to destroy the soil crust covered with soil blue-green and other types of algae (especially on sticky soils). This activates the supply of essential nutrients from the soil and helps clear it of weeds. Immediately after loosening, you should feed the garlic with organic matter - an infusion of slurry (1:5), mullein (1:6) or bird droppings (1:10-15). It is advisable to add 100 g of sifted wood ash per 10 liters of solution. Consumption: 10 l per 3-5 sq.m.
Comments 3
Classes 91
An interesting idea for growing greens!
Comments 5
Classes 283
CORRECT CARE OF CURRANTS Save so as not to lose! Here's the problem: aphids and caterpillars have occupied the young plants. And powdery mildew decided to finish what the pests had started. What to do here? We need to start with prevention. In the fall, remove all fallen leaves and burn them. Pull out all the grass next to the bushes and loosen the soil, just be careful not to damage the roots. Fertilizers have also not been canceled yet: after loosening, add 0.5 liters of ash under each bush and dig in the potato peelings. Mulch the surrounding soil with dried grass clippings or rice husks. Throughout the winter, do not throw away onion peels and potato peelings - they will all go to a good cause. From time to time, take them to the site: rake away the snow, scatter them under a bush and sprinkle them again. In early spring, when the buds are just beginning to bloom, add 2-3 tbsp to each bush. spoons of urea, and spray the bushes themselves with Bordeaux mixture. After a week, spray again with onion peel infusion. Just before flowering, spray again with onion peel infusion (1-1.5 liters per bush). Please note: well-groomed currants will bloom very profusely. When the berries are set, pour a superphosphate solution well under the roots (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) and treat again with onion peel infusion. Currants do not tolerate dry soil, so make sure the soil is always moist. By the beginning of July, your currant bushes will be bright green, beautiful, strewn with ripening large berries and absolutely healthy. Thanks to intensive care, you will learn that common bushes can produce very large berries - 15-22 mm in diameter. In the fall, dig up the soil under the bushes again (don’t forget about potato peelings and peels), fertilize with superphosphate (2-3 tablespoons per bush) and ash. Mulch. Believe me, all your friends and family will be pleasantly surprised by how large and tasty your berries are.
Comments 15
Classes 1.1K
HOW TO PLANT GLADIOLUS CORRECTLY. In the spring, a month before planting, I clean the gladioli corms and arrange them in boxes in one layer. Before planting, I soak the corms and the cleaned baby for 10 hours in a solution of 0.5% succinic acid (growth stimulant), then for 20 minutes in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate. I add 3 g of foundationazole per 1 liter to both solutions. I plant gladioli corms in late April - early May, as soon as the soil thaws to the depth of a spade bayonet. Many people ask me, at what depth to plant gladioli? When planted deeply, the flowers form few children; when planted shallow, they produce a large corm and many children. I plant large corms, depending on the soil, to a depth of 12-20 cm according to a 20x25 cm pattern. Shoots will appear when the threat of frost has passed, during which time the gladioli will form a powerful root system. And, conversely, when planted late in hot weather, the plant develops green mass without creating a good root system. After the emergence of seedlings, you can mulch the plantings with overripe litter from sawdust from chickens or chaff. I pour sand in a layer of 3-5 cm into the planting furrows or put sphagnum moss. Planting in fresh horse manure gives excellent results. Two weeks before planting in the ground, I place the cleaned babies in 5-6 pieces in film cups. After the shoots emerge, I plant the cups in the ground at intervals of 25 cm. How to care for gladioli. Over the summer I fertilize several times, starting when the third or fourth leaf appears: first with mullein infusion, then with chicken infusion or a weak infusion of pigeon droppings. After watering and rain, the plants receive another portion. Gladioli can be fed with chlorophyll extract - fill a 10-bucket barrel with grass, weeds, fill with water and add 100 g of caustic soda. After a week, the fertilizer is ready, I throw out the rough stems with a pitchfork, and you can feed all flower and garden crops by diluting 1 liter of infusion in 1 bucket of water. After the appearance of the fourth leaf, I systematically spray the gladioli against pests with chlorophos or karbofos (0.3% solution) at intervals of 10 days, or with an infusion of garlic or tomato stepsons. Against diseases, I spray the plants with 0.3% foundation 3 times a season. In the fall, after digging up gladioli, I burn corms with obvious signs of disease, and cut the stems of healthy ones short, wash them in water, soak them for 20 minutes in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate and dry them during the day in the wind and sun. Then I dry it for 2-3 weeks near heating devices (you can hang it in gauze bags). By the end of drying, the old mother corm is easily removed (if with difficulty, then it is either not completely dry or sick). A diseased corm must be destroyed to avoid infecting healthy ones. I separate the corms and baby bulbs and store them by variety in paper bags or bags in the coolest place in the apartment or on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. For better preservation, I powder them with naphthalene and foundation. Of course, powdered material cannot be stored in the refrigerator. Depending on the variety and size of the corm, gladioli bloom in July-September. Gladioli in the budding phase require more phosphorus and potassium. With a sufficient amount of these elements, flowering will be good and the corm will gain the necessary supply of nutrients. For feeding, superphosphate (phosphorus) and potassium chloride or potassium sulfate (potassium) are best suited. Fertilizers should be applied to the furrows between the rows in liquid form at the rate of: 25 g/m² superphosphate and 15 g/m² potassium chloride or potassium sulfate. Since superphosphate does not dissolve in water, it must be filled with water for a day, and the infusion should be shaken thoroughly before adding it to the soil. Before and after fertilizing, water the plants thoroughly. Gladioli are cut at the moment of full opening of the lower flower in the inflorescence. The remaining flowers will open gradually in a vase of water over two weeks or more. To make the cut smooth and neat, you need to use a sharp knife or pruning shears. On the plant remaining in the garden bed, it is recommended to leave as many leaves as possible (at least four), which will “work” for the corm. To avoid damaging the leaves remaining on the plant when cutting, you can perform the operation in this way: using a narrow knife sharpened on both sides, pierce the stem in the place where the fourth and fifth leaves diverge, and then, holding the plants with one hand below the puncture, simply pull them out with the other peduncle Good luck at the dacha!
Comments 15
Classes 623
WHAT AND WHEN TO FEED BLACKCURRANTS In early spring, it is best to feed with nitrogen fertilizers. For young bushes this will be approximately 40-50 g of urea for each plant; then, starting from the 4th year, it is recommended to reduce the amount of urea to 25-40 grams (and even divide it into 2 feedings). In the fall, under each bush, it is advisable to add from 4 to 6 kg of organic matter (bird droppings, compost, manure), from 10 to 20 g of potassium sulfate and about 50 g of superphosphate. This set is considered the main fertilizer, as it includes all the necessary components of “currant nutrition.” Liquid fertilizing Experienced gardeners recommend liquid fertilizing of blackcurrant bushes four times a year - according to the growing season of the plant: the first time - when the buds open, growth and flowering begin ; The second feeding is carried out immediately after flowering. At this time, there is increased growth, and the plant “must be supported.” The amount of growth, and therefore the size of the harvest, depends on this; It is good to carry out the third feeding during the berry-filling period (June - early July). At this time, the need of the fruiting bush for phosphorus and potassium increases. Any complex fertilizers are suitable for feeding; After harvesting, before laying flower buds (late July - August), it is very important to carry out another feeding - this will be the key to successful fruiting next year. But during this period, it is recommended to exclude nitrogen fertilizers (they delay the ripening of shoots). Depending on the composition of the soil on your site, the frequency of application and amount of fertilizer will, of course, vary. The poorer the soil, the more it is necessary to enrich it. Norms and volumes For liquid organic fertilizers, use an infusion of bird droppings (at a concentration of 1:10), slurry or mullein (1:4). It’s great if you have the opportunity to make an infusion of green weeds (green fertilizer) - its concentration for feeding is 1:10. For liquid mineral fertilizing, 20 grams of phosphorus and 10 grams of potassium and nitrogen fertilizers are dissolved in 10 liters of water. The norms for liquid fertilizers are approximately 10 liters per bush. Foliar feeding Experienced gardeners recommend foliar feeding of currants with microelements in June-July. To do this, 5 grams of potassium permanganate, 3 grams of boric acid and 30-40 grams of copper sulfate are diluted separately in different containers, and then mixed in 10 liters of water. Currant bushes are sprayed with this solution. If you don’t have enough time, there is, as always, an alternative way to supply currants with nutrients. It is enough to sow lupine, peas, and vetch (green manure crops) between the rows in the spring, and in the fall simply dig up the soil along with the mowed greens around the bushes. Special opinion For more than ten years, we have been mulching the soil under currant bushes on our site with manure at the rate of 10-12 kg per bush (you can do this with other organic matter) - and do not apply mineral fertilizers at all. But yes, we use liquid green fertilizers (I read on the Internet the advice to add leftover bread to the green mass, and now our country crops eat like humans - mash with bread, and even salt))
Tips for gardeners and gardenersEvery gardener who loves his job is ready to do everything to grow healthy and beautiful plants without chemical fertilizers and pesticides. Nowadays, it is almost impossible to find vegetables and fruits that would ripen without the use of chemicals, but then all the value of food products is lost. But before the advent of all these harmful substances, people somehow managed without chemicals. We have collected for you recipes for natural fertilizers that have been proven over the years and methods for pest control. These brilliant tips will make your yard look like the Garden of Eden!
2) If the plant drops flowers, buds and ovaries, magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt, magnesium sulfate) will help you. It is a natural mineral that is extracted from sea water. The result is almost instant.
Dissolve 2 tbsp. l. sulfate in a liter bottle of warm water and shake well. Spray the plants once every two weeks from the beginning of flowering until the time you harvest the fruits.
3) Plants need iron for growth; when it is deficient, their leaves turn yellow. This usually occurs due to excess phosphorus in the soil. Place some rusty nails in water and spray the plants with it. This will help solve the problem quickly. 
4) Soda works best against fungal diseases. Dilute a tablespoon of soda in 3 liters of warm water and spray the plants with this liquid. The water should completely cover the plant and flow into the soil.
5) Milk is very beneficial for plants. Some housewives inject milk with a syringe directly into the stem of the plant. You can spray the root zone and foliage with diluted milk. Be sure to dilute the milk and do not use it too often.
6) Copper coins prevent the appearance of fungus. Bury a few coins in the soil around the plant and the copper will kill fungal spores.
7) Use sweet sparkling water as a bug trap. Leave some soda in the bottle and hang it on a fruit tree. This method is not recommended for use during the flowering period.
8) Wood ash is good for the soil where asparagus, broccoli, beans, and beets grow. Fertilize roses, azaleas, and rhododendrons with coffee grounds. 
9) This tip may seem funny, but plants love music. Research shows that jazz and classical music have a beneficial effect on the health and growth of plants. This trick is used even on famous grape plantations.
10) Advice for gardeners who cannot tolerate gloves on their hands: wet your hands with water and thoroughly soap them with ordinary laundry soap until dry and you can start working. They did the job and thoroughly washed off all the dirt. A film of laundry soap will protect your hands while working with the soil and subsequently, after washing off, your hands will be clean and soft. Laundry soap is a good antiseptic. 
11) As you know, plants need to be planted at a certain distance from each other. Measure the desired length using a measuring tape and make a mark on the handle of the shovel. Now measuring the distance will not be difficult - a shovel will help out when you don’t have a tape measure at hand. 
12) Don’t neglect such an important point as marking plants - sign where everything grows. Tags are very convenient, now you will not forget what plants grow in your beds. And don't confuse them with weeds. Pieces of old shingles are great for making plant name signs. An option for real aesthetes: write the names of your favorite vegetation on the stones. You can even do it in Latin! 
13) Do not forget to protect plants from sudden cold weather - cover them with pots at night when the temperature drops significantly. This will save the seedlings from hypothermia. 
14) Aphids are the scourge of all summer residents. It is necessary to use products that protect the garden from aphids, but if they still appear, do not despair. The tape will help remove aphids from affected plants in one fell swoop. Wrap your hand in duct tape, sticky side up, and begin to diligently clean up your garden. 
15) Tomatoes and cucumbers need enough water to develop and bear fruit normally. The right amount is crucial: if there is too little moisture, the plants will dry out, if there is too much, they may begin to rot at the roots.
An ordinary plastic bottle will help you take care of a decent irrigation system.
First, cut off the bottom of the bottle and make several holes in the cap. Then simply insert the bottle into the ground, neck down, and fill it with water. The irrigation system is ready! Plants will take as much moisture as they need, without excess. 
16) Vegetable broth is the best fertilizer! You should add the water in which you cooked vegetables to your garden - everything will grow by leaps and bounds. 
17) The seeds will germinate without problems, even if their shell is very hard - just remember to put them in a cup of warm water overnight. This is especially useful for beans! 
18) Some seeds need to be germinated before being planted in the ground. In the pot, the conditions for germination are ideal, the seeds germinate and take root. But when the seed ends up in the ground, unfavorable factors begin to affect it - from insects to temperature changes. Make a protective shell out of cardboard for your favorite plants!
Using a toilet paper roller, you can protect the seeds in the ground from external influences. Cardboard decomposes in the soil, so there is no need to dig it up later. Transplant the seeds in this convenient roll directly into the ground. 
19) Caring for plants that like to climb requires special diligence. The main task is to make the flowerbed well-groomed without losing comfort for the greenery. 
20) A regular gutter is an excellent basis for growing strawberries and other similar crops. Cut the gutter into pieces with a regular hacksaw. Make small holes in the bottom for water. A rich harvest in such conditions is guaranteed! 
The root growth stimulator will help the formation of roots on cuttings of plants that are really difficult to root. Powerful roots will allow young seedlings to receive more nutrients from the soil, they will grow faster, bloom and produce a good harvest. 
2. Potatoes
Remove the eyes from a large potato, make a cut in it and place the cutting in it. Don't forget to water the potatoes! The cutting will take root very quickly, because potatoes are an ideal nutrient medium.
3. Aloe juice
Place the cuttings in water and add 7-10 drops of aloe juice to it. Aloe juice will not only help the roots grow, it will provide the future plant with good immunity.
4. Willow water
Place several willow twigs (you can also use wild rosemary and poplar) in water and wait for the roots to appear. Remove the branches and place the cuttings in the same water. This product works great!
5. Yeast solution
Prepare a yeast solution: 100 mg of yeast per 1 liter. Soak the cuttings in it for 24 hours, then place them in plain water.
After stimulating root growth, the plants can be safely planted in the ground. These are folk remedies that have been proven by more than one generation. Young shoots of plants will delight you with their strength and magnificent appearance!
22) Kill weeds with your own non-toxic product, which includes 4 liters of vinegar (9%, not 70% (!) 250 g of table salt and 1 tablespoon of dishwashing detergent. Spray the weeds with it on a hot day. 
23) Use eggshells to grow seedlings and fertilize the soil (scatter the crushed shells around the area). 
24) To maintain moisture inside the plant pot, you can use diapers. 
25) Various animals, such as squirrels, do not like the smell of soap. And with the help of a soap solution you can fight aphids. 
26) Tea bags in fertilizer will add nutrients. 
27) Citrus peel will help get rid of aphids and mosquitoes. 
28) Sprinkling coffee grounds on your plants will protect them from hares and squirrels. In addition, the grounds provide additional nutrients to the seedlings. 
29) Plastic forks can keep animals out of your garden. 
30) Make a small greenhouse for the seedlings. 
31) Sprinkle the area with bitter salt or Epsom salt. This will make the plants bushier and more flowering. 
32) Use potatoes to grow roses from cuttings. 
33) Make a small balcony garden out of a wooden box. 
34) Irrigate plants using plastic bottles with holes. 
36) Car flower garden 
37) From old bicycle wheels you can make guides for the growth of cucumbers or beans 
38) Ideas for using logs 
39) Wooden train 
40) Original idea 
41) Cement potty hands 
42) From an old barrel and pallets 
43) Interesting gate 
44) A place to store keys from an old painted rake. 
46) Comfortable seating options 
47) Sculptures for the garden 
Great decoration: To make large cups, stock up on paint and old tires.
This frog will decorate any yard.
A beautiful and easy to make swan.
48) Idea for a children's sandbox 
49) Place for a dog
Place a soft cushion inside a large tire and it will become your dog's favorite place. 
50) Original mirror made from a bicycle tire 
51) Unusual idea for storing umbrellas 
* * *
With these tips, your garden will be the best around. They will certainly ask you for secrets, so it’s better to immediately share them with your neighbors in the country.
Growing your own garden takes a lot of energy, but it's worth it. Once you fall in love with working on the land, you will no longer be able to refuse this special pleasure - watching the growth of plants and harvesting, watering and taking care of the planting in every possible way...
A passionate gardener doesn’t care, the garden comes first! This is why elderly people who work on the land are always so strong - they simply have no time to get sick.
We all love to give advice, because we all come from the land of advice. There are different types of advice - useful, useless and even harmful.
In this section we will give exclusively useful advice for summer residents and everyone who has their own country house and plot. Make your garden beautiful and your harvest rich!
There are many known ways to fly onto turf in the spring and turn it into clean, loose soil.
And this will work out for you the easier, faster and more correctly, the more “soil scientist” you are in spirit and knowledge.
When we talk about winning ways to grow tomatoes, we mean that they allow you to reliably avoid late blight, brown leaf spot, blossom end rot and other major diseases. Everyone knows that these diseases occur very easily in tomatoes, so environmentally friendly growing methods that give this crop a margin of safety are rare.
Details Author: Pavel Trannua
I have long been convinced in practice that with skillfully adjusted agricultural technology, the problem of the so-called “black leg” on any seedlings disappears by itself.
First, a few words about the phenomenon itself, what it is...
There are probably few fertilizers that have a lot of useful properties and at the same time have virtually no side effects for plants or humans. The conducted studies have proven 100 percent efficiency of the new shungite-based fertilizer. Meet ShungiTerra.
Details Author: Valery
Many owners of suburban areas have to inevitably face problems created by such uninvited guests as moles.
Let's look at modern methods of repelling and controlling moles in a summer cottage.
Why are some plants 10 times more effective than DEET?
If you are bothered by annoying mosquitoes, then here is a list of useful plants that repel these insects and which you can grow in your summer cottage.
April and warm weather signal to us that it is time to open the summer season. At the end of winter, we planted seedlings at home, and now they are waiting to get to the “main” land. Every summer resident knows how much work it takes to grow a good harvest. How much effort and time will you have to spend? And then there are moles and other diggers...
Details Author: Pavel
It's spring and planting time, let's make this task easier for ourselves. An easy-to-make and easy-to-use template for marking holes for planting seeds will be used by lovers of order and beauty in their garden.
Details Author: Pavel
How to properly cut down damaged or interfering heavy branches of a fruit tree? No, no, I just took it and sawed it off, that won’t do.
In order not to harm the tree, there is a special scheme - just three cuts and voila! And how to do it correctly, read in the article.
Inexpensive and easy-to-use geotextiles will allow you to protect garden plants with little winter hardiness from frost in winter and preserve not only the magnificent landscape design on your site for many years, but also increase the yield of fruits and berries.
Read about the nuances of using geotextiles in your summer cottage!
Trellis structures as a support for plants allow efficient use of space, which is very important for gardeners. Plants grow upward and fruits and leaves receive plenty of sunlight. In addition, it is much easier to detect pests and the beginnings of diseases and take appropriate measures in time.
Details Author: translation by Tatyana Tyunina
No-till (no-dig) farming is gaining more and more supporters around the world.
And why plow the ground if you can use a fairly simple method of sowing seeds, such as sowing seeds in tablets or so-called seed bombs.
A solar heated greenhouse becomes especially relevant in early spring. It is convenient to grow seedlings in it. It allows you to get early greens and early ripening vegetables, which are so necessary in the spring. To put a greenhouse or greenhouse into operation, it is necessary to carry out a number of works. Then the first harvest may be on your table in early April.
Details Author: Ekaterina from Kyiv
Many heat-loving crops have to be planted through pre-grown seedlings. Of course, it is better to do this in separate containers, cups or peat tablets. But if there is not enough space in the apartment for seedlings, then you can use a simple method of germinating seeds.
Details Author: Ekaterina from Kyiv
The beginning of the summer season is always associated with a lot of trouble. And the weather brings many surprises: either spring begins almost in February, or frosts and snow at the end of May. All this unsettles the usual rut. You don’t know whether to start sowing onions and carrots in March or wait a little longer, in case these warm or even hot days are just a false start.
Details Author: Ekaterina from Kyiv
Healthy and strong seedlings start from seeds. The quality and quantity of the harvest directly depend on how healthy the seeds were selected and under what conditions they were stored. But the speed of harvesting and the ability of seeds to transfer their qualities to new plants depend on agrotechnical techniques, for example, pre-sowing seed treatment.
And now the summer season has come again. Immediately long lines of cars stretched out, in turn taking citizens away from the city and the city noise and bustle. But it is here that all sorts of problems and endless worries await them. And in order to cope with them you need to follow a few simple tips that will help even in difficult situations.
Many people know how to root the cuttings themselves in a jar of water, but sometimes this rooting method is unsuccessful. And, as a rule, in this case there are several important points that can help achieve success in this process.
1. It should be remembered that if the dishes are transparent, then the roots themselves will form in it much worse than in one or another opaque dish.
2. If the water evaporates, it is better to add it rather than change it completely.
3. If too much water was poured, then at the very bottom of the jar the cuttings may begin to rot due to lack of oxygen.
4. For cuttings, it is better to take fairly long shoots, since the lower the segment of the stem from which the cutting is taken is located, the better it will take root.
5. If you take cuttings from an old plant, then in turn they will have a very long rooting process.
6. As a rule, if the cuttings do not have leaves, then the roots themselves will easily form in the dark, but if there are leaves, then longer light is needed for rooting.
For example, a rather interesting method of cutting roses is now being used. During planting, the rose cutting takes root in the plant itself. That is, from an ordinary potato that is quite large in size, first all existing eyes are removed, and then a rose cutting is stuck into it. After this, the tuber is buried in the ground, watered and covered with a large glass jar. And such a non-standard rooting method is completely justified: the cuttings located in the tuber itself receive many different nutrients in exchange for water, the main thing is not to forget to water them constantly.
Most people want to not only restore their health and enjoy peace during the summer, but also
Hi all! This material contains popular advice for gardeners and gardeners. If you have original ideas and proven experience, share your research in the comments to this article. Let as many people as possible use your popular advice to gardeners and gardeners in their gardens and dachas! And so, let's go.
What you will learn from this material:
With great difficulty, I rid the garden of the spontaneously growing horseradish. But since I need horseradish leaves for marinades, I can’t do without this plant. I adapted to growing horseradish in old leaky buckets. I fill them with garden soil, flavored with organic matter, and plant 1-2 rhizomes. I water the plantings abundantly - excess moisture leaves through the holes in the buckets. I can’t say that horseradish rhizomes grow very large, but enough leaves are formed.
Having walled up the horseradish in a bucket, I prevent it from spreading throughout the area. In addition, in a container it can be moved from place to place - in August I move it closer to the summer kitchen, where I prepare homemade pickles. Very comfortably!
The soil on my site is sandy loam, easy to cultivate. But it doesn't hold well and isn't very rich in nutrients. Not all vegetables grow well on such land. But for some I manage to provide suitable conditions, and they make me happy with the harvest.
For example, my zucchini grows well. Since the fall, I have been laying a thick layer of grass, leaves, sawdust, chopped vegetable scraps, and flower stems at the base of the bed. I pour hot infusion of ash over the planting, flavor it with a handful of superphosphate, and sprinkle 20 cm of soil on top. And I also make sure to add dolomite flour; sandy loam soils usually lack magnesium.
In the spring, without digging up the bed, I pierce it with a pitchfork, trying to loosen the deep layer. I sow sprouted zucchini seeds into the ground at a distance of 1 m from each other. I make such a large gap because the bushes grow powerful, with large leaves, sometimes for better ventilation I remove some of the leaves.
The laid “featherbed” not only supplies food, but also absorbs water well, creating a supply of moisture at depth. Even if the top layer of soil dries out, it doesn’t matter - the roots of zucchini find food in the depths. If the weather is rainy, then excess moisture is not retained in the upper sand layer, and decay does not occur.
Sometimes I plant garlic not only in a designated bed, but also where there is simply free space. I sometimes forget about this “free” garlic, and the heads remain overwintering in the ground. In spring, a whole bush of vitamin-rich greens grows in this place. One day I decided to experiment and specifically planted heads of garlic before winter rather than cloves. I placed them in the trunk circles of apple and pear trees, so that the garlic would also repel pests with its aroma.
What are the results? I didn’t grow large heads under the trees, but it seemed to me that there were fewer pests. And most importantly, already in early spring I had plenty of tasty greens.
Beets are a must-have vegetable in our garden. One day it didn’t grow well, and in order not to be left without a harvest, my husband decided to sow literally a row of seeds in a bed with other vegetables. Here it was only necessary to take into account who is the beet's friend and who is the enemy. We knew that this root crop would be uncomfortable next to potatoes, but in a cabbage, onion or garlic bed, a guest would certainly be welcome. That’s where my husband sowed beets.
The idea turned out to be successful. The root crops planted in the garlic and cabbage beds grew large. And this is not surprising - pests did not “see” beets among other crops; there was no competition for food and a place in the sun for vegetables.
By mid-September, the beets had formed large, strong roots, and we got an excellent harvest.
Many people believe that a polycarbonate greenhouse will last forever, and are very disappointed when it quickly breaks down. Yes, polycarbonate is a durable material, but it also needs care.
Firstly, do not use aggressive chemicals when disinfecting in the fall. Under no circumstances use sulfur-based smoke bombs for fumigation, although such recommendations are often found! For polycarbonate greenhouses there are special smoke bombs with thiabendazole. Also, do not use hard scrapers to remove dirt, mold and algae. But you can use a steam generator - a jet of hot steam will carefully and effectively disinfect joints, corners and other hard-to-reach places.
During winter, remove snow from your roof regularly. A half-meter layer of snow with its weight can break not only the sheathing sheets, but also the racks. Do not scrape frozen snow. If it is not possible to come to the site in winter, then install an additional support frame inside the greenhouse.
The weather at the end of winter brings big problems to the greenhouse, when the sun shines brightly during the day and there is bitter frost at night. During the day, the air inside the greenhouse heats up, and the inner layer of polycarbonate gets warmer. And at night, the outside of the polycarbonate cools down greatly, resulting in thermal stresses in the sheet. If snow also presses on the roof, it may crack. Therefore, try to ventilate the greenhouse to equalize the temperature inside and outside. However, if you rarely visit the site, then it is better to close the door and windows tightly so that they are not swayed by the wind.
When hearing the words “Mongolian bow,” the imagination pictures a nomadic weapon that sends deadly arrows at the enemy. But the Mongolian onion is also a vegetable, the green arrows of which are one of the first to break through the spring snow and bring relief from spring vitamin deficiency.
This type of onion is wild, therefore it is distinguished by enviable vitality and accumulates a lot of biologically active substances. In nature, it grows in the foothills of Altai, Mongolia, and Buryatia. Externally, the plant looks like a spring onion: from medium-sized onions that overwinter in the ground, succulent, hollow leaves grow in the spring. In mid-summer, flower arrows with yellowish ball-shaped inflorescences appear.
A resident of rocky slopes, Mongolian onion prefers sandy loam or even crushed stone soil and does not like stagnant moisture. In a dry place it is extremely winter-hardy, but in a flooded place it will almost certainly dry out or die from disease. So choose an elevated place for it, well lit by the spring sun. I actually planted a bunch of onions on an alpine hill. In spring, bright greenery looks very elegant, and it doesn’t spoil the summer look of the flowerbed. But already in April I have fresh greens on the table.
When storing potatoes, we hope that they will last until the next harvest. But, alas! Often the potatoes begin to spoil. Over the years, I have found out the reasons and now I try to prevent crop damage by adhering to several rules.
I have long wanted to plant a beautiful fruit-bearing vine in the courtyard of my country house. Neighbors recommended a plant - Actinidia kolomikta. This is a rather unpretentious, frost-resistant plant that blooms spectacularly and produces delicious flowers.
I planted the seedlings in the fall on the sunny side of the gazebo. I made planting holes at a distance of 1.5 m from each other, with a diameter and depth of 60-70 cm. At the bottom of each hole I placed a drainage made of broken bricks. I added humus to the holes - about a fifth of the total volume of soil removed from the hole. The plantings were watered generously with warm water and mulched with straw.
In the spring, the seedlings actively began to grow. Now at the beginning of each summer I feed actinidia with a solution of horse manure, water it regularly and loosen it shallowly 2-3 times a season - the roots of the plants are close to the surface of the earth.
Care is simple, and the benefits of actinidia are significant. And its fruits are delicious, and it looks beautiful on the gazebo. I especially like this plant in the fall, when the leaves turn reddish.
Every autumn, when it is already noticeably colder, I feed raspberries. It is important to wait until it gets cold because in warm weather, fertilizing can provoke rapid growth, and on the eve of winter this will be detrimental to the plants. Previously, I used only organic matter for fertilizing. But the farm where I got it closed, and I had to switch to mineral water.
To prepare the fertilizer, I mix potassium salt and superphosphate in a 1:1 ratio. Then I make deep furrows around the bushes - 30-40 cm from the stems - and pour fertilizer there. For 1 sq. m of raspberry bush I use about 40 g of mixture. Then I fill the grooves. Next up is the autumn rains. They dissolve fertilizers and nutrients flow to the roots of plants.
Judging by the yields I get, raspberries like both organic and mineral fertilizers.
Berry bushes are often planted in the shade. But plants without sun weaken, stretch out and practically do not lay fruit buds. The result is low yield.
Another common mistake gardeners make is that they do not use manure for fertilizing. And for normal growth, shrubs need manure, and in large quantities. It is necessary to lay out a half-spadeful layer of manure in the tree trunk circle, and also add leaf humus.
You can also add dried, weeded weeds (without seeds!) and sawdust on top - thanks to this mulch, the soil will become looser and moisture will evaporate less. To maintain a high layer of mulch, it is convenient to use borders (they can be made from any available material).
Some gardeners mistakenly believe that shrubs can grow without pruning. In fact, in this case, the bush forms more slowly, and the berries become smaller. Pruning should be done both in the spring, before the buds open, and in the fall, after the leaves fall. Its main goal is to form a healthy and well-lit bush.
One cannot help but remember about pests. But now there are a lot of means to combat them, so I think it won’t be difficult to find the right one.
In the fall, gardeners use granular potassium-phosphorus fertilizers to feed trees. I treat my garden not with “sweets” - granules, but with nutritious “coffee”. I grind fertilizers in an old coffee grinder. I make indentations (30-35 cm) in the trunk circle of each tree.
If the tree is mature, then you need to make 20 holes, and if it’s young, 10 is enough. Then I pour a pinch of fertilizer into each hole and fill it with water and brew “coffee.”
Typically, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are recommended to be applied in the fall, but with such late application there is a high probability that a significant part of the nutrients will be washed away by rain. Therefore, I apply fertilizers in July-August so that my trees have time to receive nutrition and lay fruit buds.
Blood red hawthorn has been growing for me for many years. In June, beautiful double white flowers appear on the tree, and then large fruits form. When they ripen, they turn bright red. Hawthorn fruits are juicy, healthy and very tasty.
The plant is undemanding to soil, but it must be planted in a bright place. This can be done both in spring and autumn. When planting, the hole should be large enough, 50-60 cm deep. Add 5 tbsp to it. l. nitrophoska. After planting, water.
From the 2nd year until the start of fruiting (it usually occurs in the 5th year), you need to feed the hawthorn twice a season. In spring - urea (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water), 10-15 liters per tree. In autumn - nitrophoska (in the same proportions).
Self-rooted cherries, plums, cherry plums, and damsons can be propagated by root shoots.
However, when trying to transplant a sprout, it often turns out that it has almost no small roots of its own. This happens especially often with shoots near the mother tree. Having cut the main root, we remove the “stick” from the ground. The survival rate of such a seedling is not great.
The quality of shoots taken 2-3 m from the mother tree is somewhat better. There are usually more of their own roots, but still much less than those of seedlings or rooted cuttings.
In order for such a seedling to be of high quality, you need to take care in advance of the formation of its own roots. We choose a sprout away from the trunk. In early spring, we scrape away the soil from it and the main root, forming a groove 20 cm deep.
We fill it with humus and feed it with superphosphate several times in the summer. In mid-summer, cut the main root halfway on both sides, 15 cm from the sprout (to stimulate root formation). In winter, cover the soil around the sprout with a thick layer of leaf litter or peat. And in early spring, before the buds open, we separate the shoot and transplant it to a new place.
The scientific and production association “Gardens of Russia” has been introducing the latest achievements in the selection of vegetable, fruit, berry and ornamental crops into the widespread practice of amateur gardening for 30 years. The association uses the most modern technologies and has created a unique laboratory for microclonal propagation of plants.
The main task of the NPO "Gardens of Russia" is to provide gardeners with high-quality planting material for popular varieties of various garden plants and new world selections. Delivery of planting material (seeds, bulbs, seedlings) is carried out by Russian Post.
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