All modern cameras are equipped with an exposure meter. Currently, a camera's exposure meter is not just a sensor that measures the level of illumination, it is a highly accurate, sophisticated system of sensors and data processing. For example, the Canon 600D camera is equipped with a 63-zone exposure metering system.
These systems differ in different models from different manufacturers, but their principle is unchanged: sensors measure the brightness level in various areas frame. In this case, the light passing through the lens is analyzed, which automatically takes into account the light transmission of lenses and filters if they are worn on the lens. This type of metering is called TTL Through the lens.
The operation of the exposure metering system underlies automatic (auto, portrait, landscape...) and creative (shutter priority, aperture priority). It is she who must ensure the correct exposure of the photo. Most of the time she succeeds, but sometimes she makes mistakes. Let's look at why this happens.
Despite its significant advantages, this system has two fundamental disadvantages. First, the camera doesn't know how much light is falling on the subject. It only knows how much light is reflected from the object! And this, in turn, depends not only on the illumination of the object, but also on its reflective ability.
Let's look at this problem using the example of three cats: black, white and gray. For example, these:
Below the photographs are theirs. It becomes clear that the brightness of the images differs significantly.
The camera knows nothing about what we are photographing; it assumes that there is an object of average brightness in front of it. In other words, it considers all cats to be gray and adjusts the exposure so that the high point in the histogram is in the middle of the histogram.
What you see around you is not always the same in photographs. The human eye can handle high-contrast scenes much better than a digital camera, so photographic images often have significant flaws, such as blown-out areas or lack of shadow detail.
Most modern DSLRs are equipped special functions, which effectively increase the dynamic range. Auto Lighting on Canon models or Active D-Lighting on Nikon cameras can significantly improve image quality.
Evaluative metering, also known as Multi-area metering, is a comprehensive and most accurate method. IN in this case lighting information comes from the entire frame area. Setting the evaluative metering mode means that the frame will be divided into many parts, and information will be received simultaneously from each part of the frame. The number of parts depends on the brand and level of the camera.
For more efficient work camera, users have the option to use exposure compensation +/- EV. For example, when photographing a portrait with a bright background, you may need +2 EV to +3 EV compensation. In this case, the background will most likely be very light, almost white, but it is much more important that the portrait itself has rich, bright colors. On the other hand, when the face is illuminated by a bright light source, it is worth setting negative exposure values, making the light on the face less bright. In this case, the background will be very dark, but the portrait will be beautifully lit.
For greater accuracy in difficult shooting situations, you can be selective when choosing metering modes and when adjusting exposure compensation.
Center-weighted exposure metering option is that the sensitivity of the sensor is distributed unevenly across the frame, gradually decreasing from the center to the edge. The area of maximum sensitivity is located within the central circle.
Spot exposure metering is based on the fact that sensitivity is measured at a small point, which is most often located in the center of the frame. In this case, the camera will be very sensitive to changes in sensitivity.
Even with new and improved technologies that allow you to make exposure metering as accurate as possible, you still need to constantly adjust the camera depending on the conditions environment and individual moments that arise during work. So, for example, when photographing a portrait of a person with very fair skin, it would be better to add about 0.5 EV of exposure compensation to make the skin tone softer and more vibrant. At the same time, when photographing landscapes with bright green vegetation, you most likely won't have to change your camera's automatic settings.
Many cameras only offer an exposure compensation range of "+2" to "-2" EV, which is often not sufficient for shooting in very difficult lighting conditions. By switching to manual mode, you can set the exposure value very precisely.
Use exposure bracketing by taking multiple shots and varying exposure values. Of course, you can change the exposure settings while editing the photo, but this can significantly degrade the quality of the image.
Be careful when focusing on particularly light or dark objects, as the camera may adjust to those areas. Recompose the shot if necessary. Take a few additional photos for greater accuracy.
This good decision for high-contrast scenes where the sides of the frame contrast with the center of the photo. You may need to make some exposure compensation for an ideal result.
Due to the fact that lighting information is taken from a small point, using this mode can be quite problematic. To achieve the best exposure, it is worth taking into account information from several points.
If you want to avoid pale skies in your landscape photos, overly pale whites and aim for deeper ones, rich colors, then it’s better to underexpose your frame so that you can then increase the brightness using graphic post-processing. Fixing blown-out photos is more difficult than making them a little brighter.
Overexposing your frame can add a romantic feel to your portrait photo. If you are confident that you can add some magical charm and picturesqueness to an overly bright image, then experiment. Some landscape photographers can create interesting effects when photographing white, snowy outdoor landscapes. Their overexposed photos look natural and very attractive.
In this lesson we learned that the camera is equipped with a very precise tool for measuring the brightness of a scene. To always get high-quality photos, you need to learn how to work with it.
The camera can meter exposure in different modes to suit different shooting situations.
The most suitable exposure metering mode for beginner photographers is matrix. It is also called evaluative or multi-segment. The brightness of the scene is measured over the entire area of the frame, using the maximum number of sensors. The results from each sensor (remember that depending on the model of the device, their number can reach tens of thousands) are analyzed, and the camera determines the optimal exposure value. Methods for analyzing this data are constantly being improved and become more intelligent. The number of exposure metering sensors is also growing. All this makes matrix metering more accurate with each subsequent generation of cameras. Today, with matrix metering, it is almost always possible to obtain the correct exposure. Minor difficulties may arise in non-standard situations for automation. For example, shooting a person indoors against a window. In this case, the automation cannot accurately determine what we are filming: a landscape outside the window illuminated by the midday sun or a person dimly illuminated by room light. It can solve this problem in different ways depending on the situation and the specific layout of the frame. Shooting on a white or black background can also cause difficulties: the automation will try to equate the prevailing shades in the frame to gray. Therefore, frames on a white background will turn out too dark, and on a black background - too bright. Shooting test frames and then applying exposure compensation or using other metering modes (for example, spot) will help solve this problem.
When to use matrix metering? This mode is suitable for most shooting situations. It will be optimal for active reportage shooting, photo walks, and amateur family photo sessions and while traveling.
Quite difficult to use, but the most accurate exposure metering mode is spot. The brightness of the photographed scene is measured over a small area, a point. In Nikon cameras, this point will be located in the same place as the active autofocus area. Since the measurement occurs only in a very small fragment of the image, you need to choose the area for measurement wisely. If you thoughtlessly poke this point into any place you come across, the result will most likely not be the most successful. We will get an incorrectly exposed frame. Spot metering should be done relative to the average brightness areas in the image. After all, the camera believes that we are “showing” it an object of average brightness and, based on this, measures the exposure.
For example, when photographing this house, you should measure the exposure not against its white wall (otherwise the picture will turn out too dark) and not against the dark forest (we will get an overexposed frame). It is better to use medium-brightness fragments of the plot. Ideal option will become slate roof house.
Some people use spot metering in portrait photography. This is convenient if you are shooting with a Nikon camera and the metering point is in the same place as the focusing point. Since people's faces tend to be average in brightness, face spot metering will generally work correctly. But if we are photographing a dark-skinned or black person, it is worth considering making a slight negative exposure compensation.
Exposure lock. Often, after measuring exposure using spot metering, the shot needs to be recomposed. To prevent the exposure from being lost after recomposing (after all, the device constantly measures exposure until we take a picture), there is a special exposure lock button - AE-L (Automatic Exposure Lock). When you click on it, the camera fixes the current value of the exposure parameters. This feature is useful not only when working with spot metering, but also when you need to take several shots with the same exposure without switching to manual mode. This is often necessary when shooting panoramas.
By the way, when you hold the shutter button half-pressed, exposure metering is also locked. After you press the button all the way and the frame is taken, exposure metering will continue, which is not always convenient (for example, when shooting panoramas).
When to use spot metering? First of all, when you are confident that you can handle it. After all, for accurate measurements you will have to carefully monitor which object in the frame the exposure is measured on. Photographers often use this type of metering when shooting landscapes with complex (sunset, dawn) contrast lighting. This type of metering can also be used in portrait photography, measuring the exposure exactly according to the model’s face.
Center-weighted metering type - classic look exposure metering, which modern devices inherited from the very first film SLR cameras with a built-in exposure meter. Exposure metering in this mode is carried out over a large area in the center of the frame, in a circle large diameter. In this case, the area located directly in the very center of the frame has higher priority (greater “weight”) when analyzing the received data. Today this type metering is a little outdated against the background of, firstly, intelligent and easy-to-use matrix metering and, secondly, accurate and flexible spot metering.
The difference between water flow and water is that the speed of light is constant, which makes life easier. Measuring the amount of light to calculate the required one is also related to the camera parameters. But that's not important. The amount of light coming from the shooting area and getting through the cameras to depends on the level of general illumination, the properties of the object being photographed and can vary greatly wide range. This is due to the fact that in order to obtain the required image on a photographic medium, it must receive a certain amount of light (for each sensitivity value, plus or minus some deviation).
This article will talk about setting up. Learn how the camera's metering modes work: matrix, center-weighted, partial, and spot.
As you probably already know, the camera itself knows which one to expose. Of course, we are talking about automatic and semi-automatic. I will say more, and in manual mode he also knows about it!
They built into the camera for this purpose special device, which measures. Measurements are taken, as you might guess, by the light that enters the camera through. I’ll even tell you right away what it’s called. This is an exposure meter. In simple words: It measures how light it is in front of the lens. (We talked about it earlier).
How does he measure? The exposure meter has its own understanding of what “sufficient illumination” means. He sets the semi-automatic and automatic ones so that the resulting amount of light satisfies his “sense of beauty.” That is, it was equal to what he considers ideal.
Unlike the human “sense of beauty,” the camera’s “sense of beauty” can be measured. When everything is ok, the light meter sensor shows 0 . If it gets darker, the value goes into negative areas (-1, -2...). If it becomes too light, then, accordingly, to positive (+1, +2, +3).
The frequently used mode is good for landscapes, for example. This results in “even metering”. It will not be suitable for cases where an important part of the photo is worse illuminated than the rest of the frame, since this part will turn out much darker in the picture.
Matrix metering, aperture priority with F 4.5.
Metering occurs over the entire area of the frame, but 60 percent plays the main role in the selection central square frame. In most cases, they are the most important. The most frequently used mode.
Metering occurs taking into account only 9 percent of the frame area (in the center, of course).
Useful when shooting against the light, or in other cases where the background is much brighter than the subject itself.
Measurement takes into account 3 percent of the frame area (also in the center). Spot and partial metering are suitable when the subject is poorly lit. Point the metering area at a dark object and take a photo. In the photo this object will appear normal.
Spot metering, aperture priority with F 4.5.
Always shoot a little darker than necessary if you're going to be editing photos in . Underexposed (underexposed pictures) in graphic editors, when working with them, turn into completely good shots(unless it's a Malevich square, of course). But the overexposed ones are no longer there. The fact is that in darker places, information about the difference in lighting, about the actual color that the object being photographed is still stored (within reasonable limits, of course). In overexposed, too light photographs - no.
With the advent of digital cameras, this dependence acquired a triangular character, thus creating.
Which exposure metering mode is better than others? Point, center-weighted or evaluative (matrix)?
Exposure metering is one of the most tedious and difficult topics in photography. Many for whom photography is just a hobby do not pay due attention to this topic, but in vain.
As a rule, inexpensive, non-professional cameras (point-and-shoot cameras) have a fixed exposure measurement system; the device itself analyzes the light and selects the exposure; you cannot interfere with this process in any way. However, if you are the proud owner of a professional or semi-professional SLR camera, then it is important to know and understand how to use different types of exposure metering. Put in a little effort and you will understand how important and necessary it is.
When metering exposure, light is divided into reflected and incident light. It is not difficult to guess that reflected light is light that is reflected from the subject, and incident light, accordingly, falls on the subject. Modern cameras are equipped with the latest developments in exposure metering, which have greatly simplified the entire process of exposure metering. However, it is important to understand the difference so that you understand the limitations of your camera's metering system.
An exposure meter based on incident light gives more accurate results than based on reflected light. By measuring the light reflected from an object, the built-in light meter does not know how much light is actually hitting the object (the incident light value), so it is quite easily misled. Remember how you tried to photograph a snowy landscape and were probably disappointed with the result. The fact is that snow is highly reflective, and the built-in exposure meter mistakenly assumed that the scene was brighter than it actually was. As a result, we end up with underexposed photos.
I recommend that you purchase an external exposure meter that can measure the incident light. But first, you should study in detail the operation of the built-in exposure meter and find out under what circumstances you should use one or another exposure metering mode.
A reflected light exposure meter, just like the one installed in your camera, roughly speaking, simply guesses about the amount of light on the scene, since all objects have completely different abilities to reflect and absorb light. Let's take the example of a snowy landscape again and compare it with a forest landscape; the reflective ability of snow is many times greater than that of trees, grass, etc. All light meters perceive the reflective surface in the same way, presenting it as a neutral gray. Subjects that are lighter or darker than the specified neutral gray are no longer exposed correctly.
Fortunately, digital SLR camera manufacturers allow us to choose our own exposure metering mode, which makes it possible to somewhat compensate for the shortcomings that arise from the reflected light metering system.
There are three main exposure metering modes: matrix (also often called evaluative, multi-zone, multi-zone, depending on the manufacturer), center-weighted and spot. Now let’s quickly figure out how they differ from each other:
The concept of matrix metering is actually very simple to understand. To measure exposure, the frame is divided into zones, after which brightness and the ratio of light and shadow are measured in each individual zone. As a result, the average value is displayed for all covered areas of the image, on the basis of which the exposure is set.
Everything seems quite simple, but the matrix system has a very complex algorithm, which is developed individually by all manufacturers and is kept secret. Depending on the manufacturer, during the metering process the frame is divided into different quantities zones, for some devices this number is not so large, but for some it reaches thousands.
In the metering process, in addition to light, other factors are taken into account, for example, the distance between the camera and the subject, colors, and focus point. Nikon even has a built-in database of over 30,000 various photographs frequently encountered scenes that were taken at the most optimal exposure value. The camera can reference these photographs as a template when determining exposure.
In center-weighted mode, exposure is metered at approximately 60-80% of the image and measured over a central circle-shaped area. Some cameras are equipped with a function to adjust the size of this circle. The areas located at the edges of the photo have practically no effect on exposure metering, however, when calculating, at least slightly, they are still taken into account.
Previously, this metering method was considered basic, but is now used in compact cameras as the main one. Why him? Because, as a rule, the subject is still closer to the middle of the frame, and not at its borders, so it is quite logical to determine the exposure in the center of the image.
Spot and partial modes are similar to each other; they work on the same principle: they take very small areas of the image (usually in the center of the frame) as the area for measuring exposure. For spot metering, this area is approximately 1-5% of the entire image; partial metering covers a slightly larger area, approximately 15% of the entire frame. On cameras from some manufacturers, the so-called exposure metering area can be shifted from the center to the corners of the frame.
Spot metering allows you to very accurately expose individual fragments that are small relative to the entire image. Spot metering is most effective when shooting high-contrast images, when the subject is well lit and the background is in shadow, or vice versa, when the subject is framed by bright light.
Matrix exposure metering is perhaps the most widely used, both among professional and amateur photographers. It is best used in conditions of uniform lighting. In case you don't know what mode is for a given frame fits better others or you simply don’t have time to think, then choose the matrix mode by default, as many photographers do.
Center-weighted metering is suitable for portraits. In this mode, the illumination of the central part of the frame is measured; the further the object is from the center, the less its influence on the exposure. The results of center-weighted metering are more predictable than matrix metering, but it requires more concentration on the part of the photographer. When you need more control over exposure (for example, you don't want light coming from the back of the frame to affect your exposure), choose center-weighted metering mode.
A good example of the benefits of center-weighted metering are high-contrast photographs, such as those taken in bright sunlight, and especially portraits taken in nature. When photographing portraits, it is important to properly expose the subject, not what surrounds it.
Spot metering, as a rule, is used by professional photographers who have relevant experience and an excellent understanding of the exposure metering system as a whole. When you master this knowledge and understanding, you will be able to use spot metering, for example, for shooting in backlight (in backlight, it is only possible to correctly expose the model’s face using spot metering, otherwise the model will turn into a dark silhouette). Spot metering is also good for shooting objects at long distances or for macro photography, especially when the subject does not occupy most of the frame. When using spot metering, be careful: if you expose a small area well, you can easily lose the rest of the frame.
Spot metering works well in situations where the scene is evenly lit, but the subject is clearly brighter or darker than its surroundings. For example, a white dog in the background dark wall or a man dressed in black standing against a white building. Other good and very famous example is the moon against the background of the night sky, a bright object against a very dark background.
When photographing in center-weighted exposure metering mode, I recommend using the pre-focus function. This feature locks exposure metering while the shutter button is pressed halfway. This is convenient because center-weighted mode allows you to expose objects that are only in the center of the frame. With this function, you can position the subject in the center of the frame, read the light information, and then compose the photo and then press the shutter button.
Another function of your camera will also be useful, namely Auto Exposure (AE) lock.
Exposure compensation can greatly improve your photography. Do not forget that all built-in exposure meters, regardless of the selected metering mode, only take into account reflected light, and this often leads to errors. For some types of scenes, exposure compensation will be essential. Again, using a snowy landscape as an example, or a photo taken on a beach where the sand is too light, these frames will be underexposed and will require at least +1 stop compensation.
So, everyone is probably wondering which exposure metering mode is best to use. To this question, as to many other questions regarding the shooting process, I will answer: it all depends on the situation. Most likely, for the most part, you shoot or will shoot in center-weighted and matrix modes, preferring one of the two depending on the type of lighting and your own preferences. Low-contrast or even dimly lit objects are best shot in matrix mode. And for contrasty images, center-weighted metering is more suitable. As for spot metering, leave it for backlit scenes and other experiments.
Measuring exposure is a complex technical part of photography, and success is achieved through trial and error. And if photography is just one of your hobbies, and this information doesn’t seem particularly necessary to you, then just set the matrix exposure metering mode. But don’t stop there, experiment, try new things and develop.
