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» Wooden ladders: design requirements. Connection types. Manufacturing of blanks and assembly of the structure. Creating a ladder for the home How to make a tall ladder

Wooden ladders: design requirements. Connection types. Manufacturing of blanks and assembly of the structure. Creating a ladder for the home How to make a tall ladder

A home craftsman must be able to make a straight extension ladder, which is indispensable in the household. The design must meet the main requirements - safety and reliability. To create a durable staircase, you need to correctly select the components, become familiar with the technology, develop a drawing and perform the assembly. The stages of manufacturing the attached structure are described in the article.

An extension ladder is an indispensable thing in the garden

In a country house or garden, an extension ladder will be needed when performing work at height. Seasonal pruning of fruit and park trees, tinting window frames, harvesting and other activities cannot be done without gardening tools. Extension ladders are distinguished by their mobility, light weight and simplicity of design. Essentially, these are two support beams fastened together by crossbars.

In hardware stores and construction markets there is a wide range of modifications of ladders made from different materials. Buying a high-quality large-sized model is quite expensive, and the reliability of cheap stairs raises some doubts. Therefore, many home craftsmen often raise the question: “How to make an extension ladder with your own hands?”

The feasibility of independent construction is fully justified, since the scope of use of an extension ladder is quite multifaceted:

  • performing repair and construction work on facades;
  • repair of electrical wiring in a private house;
  • installation of electricity meters, monthly readings;
  • washing window glass on the first and second floors;
  • decoration of the facade of the house;
  • cleaning of drainpipes, storm drains;
  • performing minor repairs to roofing materials.

Despite the significant advantages, a mobile stepladder also has some disadvantages:

  • low load capacity - structures are not designed for loads of more than 200 kg;
  • a narrow support area reduces the stability of the ladder;
  • not very convenient to use due to the lack of railings, steep climb and thin steps.

Metal stairs are considered the most durable and durable. A simple model can be made independently. To perform the job, it is advisable to have welding skills.

Design requirements for extension ladders

The main requirement for attached models, as well as for other types of stairs, is safety. When planning the design of the stairs and performing calculations, you should adhere to a number of basic rules:

  1. The maximum length of a ladder of this modification is 5 m. However, this limitation is relevant for wooden models. Metal stairs can be higher due to the strength of the material.
  2. When making stairs, it is advisable to provide for the installation of special attachments: cap hooks, steel pins and rubber pads. These elements improve the stability of the structure.
  3. The optimal step placement step is 30-35 cm, the minimum distance is 25 cm.
  4. The span width is at least 40 cm.
  5. Structural parts should not have sharp, raw edges or metal burrs.
  6. In the manufacture of stepladders and retractable modifications of stairs, special locking connections are used that prevent spontaneous opening/closing of the structure.
  7. To make it easier to move large-sized models, wheels are installed on the “support legs”. In this case, it is necessary to provide for the presence of a blocker so that during operation the ladder does not move out from under your feet.

Important! According to safety regulations, the strength characteristics of the ladder must be checked annually. The structure is installed to the wall at an angle of about 70°, and then a weight weighing at least 100-120 kg is placed on the steps one by one.

Types of ladder designs

There are several types of ladders, each of which has design and operational features.

Straight simple stairs with fixed dimensions. A simple model of two support beams and attached steps. It is very easy to make such an extension ladder with your own hands. Folding and sliding models are more functional and reliable.

Folding ladders (stepladders) consist of several parts connected by hinges. The main advantage of the model is its compactness and the ability to be stored in a compact room. Stepladders with a platform are more convenient to use than straight structures. To make a folding ladder with your own hands, aluminum alloys are usually used, which reduces the weight of the stepladder.

Folding models are most in demand when arranging attic spaces. The staircase saves space on the lower floor - just pull the bottom step or a special handle and the structure will straighten out completely.

Disadvantages of folding modifications:

  • complexity of design, assembly and installation;
  • the need to use expensive components;
  • low strength of a structure consisting of several elements.

Retractable ladder with height adjustment. Models consist of two or three sections, fasteners, guides, rollers and height clamps. To ensure that the ladder does not fail at the right time, the working mechanisms must be regularly lubricated.

Selecting material for making stairs

Straight stairs today are made primarily of metal, and traditional wooden structures are becoming less popular.

Distinctive features of metal ladders:

  • for self-production, aluminum, stainless steel or metal alloys are usually used;
  • high strength, resistance to moisture and mechanical damage;
  • aluminum does not corrode, but structures made of other metals need to be treated with protective agents;
  • high load capacity;
  • practicality and durability;
  • To make a metal ladder by hand, you will need experience in welding.

A wooden ladder is easy to manufacture, but is demanding in terms of storage and operating conditions. If the air is too dry, the wood will dry out, the material will weaken, and cracks may appear. Under the influence of high humidity, wooden stairs are subject to rot. To reduce the risk of structural destruction, it is necessary to regularly treat wood with protective agents.

Important! Wooden ladders can withstand loads of up to 150 kg.

When carrying out electrical installation work, sliding ladders made of fiberglass are often used - the material protects against electric shock.

Do-it-yourself ladder made from a profile pipe

Drawings of ladders

Making ladders with your own hands begins with developing a drawing. It is necessary to schematically display the main parameters of the staircase structure:

  • height and width;
  • parameters of the material used (diameter/section of metal, etc.);
  • stair step;
  • fastening type;
  • type of support.

As an example for creating a sketch, existing diagrams from the Internet are suitable.

DIY metal ladder: drawings of various modifications.

Attic ladders by hand: drawings and diagrams. Video

Required tools and materials

To create a simple metal staircase you will need the following materials:

  • profile pipe - two sections of 2.5 m each, diameter - 4 * 4 cm;
  • sections from a profile pipe with a length equal to the width of the stairs (30-35 cm) - 10 pcs.;
  • square metal plates measuring 4*4 cm - 4 pcs.;
  • steel corners - 20 pcs.;
  • primer for treating metal surfaces;
  • dye.

The tools you need to have on hand are:

  • a hacksaw or grinder;
  • square;
  • grinding machine or sandpaper;
  • wide, durable table for laying out design parts.

The procedure for assembling an extension ladder

Let's take a step-by-step look at how to make a ladder with your own hands. The assembly diagram is as follows:

  1. Place metal supports on the table. Make sure that the elements are located parallel to each other at a distance of 30 cm (the width of the stairs).
  2. Make marks for installing steps in 25 cm increments.
  3. Weld metal corners along the marks - they will additionally secure the crossbars.
  4. Weld two 30 cm sections to the supports at the bottom and top. The result should be a rectangular frame.
  5. The crossbars are laid sequentially on the corners and welded with a double weld.
  6. Weld metal plates to the ends of the supports above and below. This measure will prevent soil, debris and water from entering the supports.
  7. Clean the weld seams with a grinder.
  8. Prime the stairs and leave the metal until completely dry.
  9. Cover the structure with paint, and after complete drying, apply a second coat of paint.

How to make a wooden ladder with your own hands: expert advice

When creating a straight ladder or stepladder from wood, the following points must be considered:

  1. For work it is better to use coniferous wood. It is unacceptable to make stairs from wooden beams if they have transverse or longitudinal cracks. Bars with signs of rotting or large knots are rejected.
  2. The choice of the minimum cross-section of the support beams depends on the height of the structure being built.
  3. Before assembly, all wooden parts are treated with an antiseptic.
  4. Structural elements are fastened together in one of the following ways:
    • overhead method - the steps are fixed to the supports using nails and self-tapping screws; this option is considered the simplest, but not reliable enough;
    • insertion of crossbars - steps are installed in samples prepared in advance in support beams;
    • tenon joint - grooves are made in the bowstrings, and protrusions are made at the edges of the crossbars; fixation can be performed at an angle.


Advice. The tenon joint in wooden structures is the most durable. You can prepare the socket and tenon using a chisel, mallet or electric drill in a stand.

Safety precautions when working on a ladder

Attachable models are not self-supporting, so knowing basic safety precautions will help prevent falls and injury.

  1. Long-term work at a height of more than 1.5 m must be carried out with a safety belt.
  2. The ladder must not be placed on boxes, tables or other objects to increase its height. It is better to “join” two separate ladders with metal clamps. Before work, the structure must be checked with a load of 150 kg.
  3. The safest installation angle is 60°. When placing the ladder at 75° or higher, it is advisable to secure it at the top.
  4. To prevent slipping when climbing, the steps must be equipped with rubber pads.

On a ladder it is prohibited:

  • lift heavy objects;
  • tension electrical wires;
  • use large welding machines and electrical equipment;
  • move without holding onto the stairs;
  • More than 1 person can climb at the same time.

Compliance with the technology of design and operation of an extension ladder is the key to the safe performance of various works at height.

Making an extension ladder from metal profiles: video

An extension ladder is a useful attribute in any home, especially a country house. It is indispensable during repairs, during construction work, when harvesting in the garden or processing trees. It can be bought at any hardware store. But every owner should understand that you can make a wooden ladder with your own hands, and it’s not at all difficult if you have these step-by-step instructions on hand.

Pros and cons of wooden stairs

Wood construction has a number of undeniable advantages over purchased metal options:

  1. environmentally friendly material is used for its production;
  2. The product is easy to assemble yourself;
  3. It can be easily processed without requiring a large amount of additional means; you can get by with just varnish or paint.
  4. Thanks to the natural beauty of wood, the staircase can be used as a decorative element to create a stylish interior.
The extension ladder is easy to carry and completely environmentally friendly

Despite its high popularity among summer residents and owners of private houses, the product has some disadvantages. The main disadvantages are:

  1. low load capacity - such structures can usually withstand no more than 120-150 kg;
  2. instability - in this sense, more preferable;
  3. exposure to external climatic factors: sudden changes in temperature, moisture and sunlight do their job - over time, the stairs begin to rot, dry out, and creak underfoot.

To extend the life of the product, it should be stored not outdoors in the open air, but in a room with moderately humid air and a constant temperature. In addition, care should be taken to protect it using various means: impregnations, antiseptics, varnishes or paints.

Important design features

Unlike a sliding or folding ladder, an extension ladder has a very simple structure. It is a one-piece structure consisting of two long wooden blocks and steps.

Side beams or bowstrings act as supports for the structure, which are connected by crossbars. Such a product assumes the absence of any mechanisms, so anyone can make a staircase without certain skills and knowledge.

Tools and materials

To make a portable ladder, the first step is to choose a building material. Considering the conditions of its operation, it must have a high degree of wear resistance.

For these purposes, mainly coniferous wood is used, which combines strength and low cost. However, professionals advise spending money once, but buying high-quality oak or maple beams. Their service life is much longer than coniferous ones.

To work you will also need a small set of tools and materials:

  • saw;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • screwdriver;
  • roulette;
  • antiseptic;
  • wood glue;
  • rubber shoes for support.

Manufacturing instructions

In order for the design to be as useful as possible on the farm, some rules should be taken into account during its manufacture:

  1. The maximum length is 5 m, the recommended crossbar spacing is 35 cm.
  2. The steps are attached to the grooves of the bowstring.
  3. To strengthen the structure, the supports are fastened at the bottom, top and middle every 2 m with metal ties.
  4. For supports, it is necessary to use attachments or “shoes” that ensure the stability of the product.

Size calculation

Despite the fact that straight stairs are simple to implement, you still cannot do without a diagram or drawing. To compile them, you need to make a simple calculation of the dimensions of the product.

1 – string (support beams); 2 – steps; 3 – stiffener.

The recommended distance between the support beams (1) should be 0.6 m at the bottom and 0.4 m at the top. The interval between the steps (2) is approximately 35 cm. To join the beams and steps, grooves are selected in the string, and at the end of the step a spike is made 4 to 5 cm long. When assembling the structure, you will need ties (3) at the rate of 1 piece per two meters.

A staircase for outdoor use is made of beams that must meet the following criteria:

  • they should be equally equal, like twin brothers;
  • cracks, knots, chips are unacceptable on support beams - the presence of even a very small defect can lead to a sudden failure of the structure;
  • with a staircase height of less than 3 m, the cross-section of the support beams must be at least 4x6 cm, with a height of more than 3 m - at least 4x8 cm;
  • cross-section of steps-crossbars and screeds – 3×6 cm.

Assembly of the structure

To assemble a simple wooden staircase with your own hands, you must strictly follow the step-by-step instructions:

  • To strengthen the structure and give a horizontal position to the upper edge of the step when tilted, you need to make notches:

  1. Draw an oblique line connecting the marks.
  2. Remove a layer of wood by placing the ax with the blade on the top mark and tapping it with a hammer.

  1. Use an ax to straighten the bevel of the notch.
  2. Similarly, make notches on the two support beams.

  • Sand the edges of the bowstring using a sander.

  • Sand the bevel of the notch.

  • Apply paint to the nicks and let it dry.

  • Let's start the steps. Carefully chamfer each board.

  • Make one of the ends the base. To do this, mark with a square, saw off the uneven edges, and sand the ends.


  • Sand the bars in the same way as the bowstrings.
  • We proceed to the manufacture of the upper and lower crossbars. The first is made shorter than the second. You choose the width yourself. In our example, it is 65 cm at the bottom and 45 at the top. Using a tape measure, measure the required length.

  • Draw a cutting line and cut off the excess.

  • Sand the ends.

  • Step back 2 cm from the edge of each block, draw a line and mark the middle on it.

  • Make a through hole at the point where the lines intersect.

  • Make a countersink with a drill.

  • Place the rungs into the notches and level the structure so that the ends of the steps are flush with the side edges of the support beams.

  • Find a drill bit that is 0.3mm smaller than the diameter of the threaded rod.
  • Place marks on the notches through the through holes in the steps. Then, with the crossbars removed, drill a hole 2/3 of the way down.

  • Apply paint to the back of the steps where they meet the supports.
  • Place the crossbars in place and fasten them with self-tapping screws.

  • We screw in the remaining steps. Place the bars in the notches and place the ends flush with the side edges of the bowstring.

Using this staircase assembly diagram, you can easily and quickly achieve the expected result.

Painting and protective treatment

The assembled ladder requires additional processing. This will improve its performance characteristics and protect it from the negative effects of surrounding natural factors.

Paints and varnishes are suitable as protective agents. It is strictly forbidden to use oil paints to paint the stairs. They make the structure slippery. Instead, regular drying oil will do. It is applied in several layers and topped with varnish. Protective agents are applied to the structure using a roller or brush.

How to build up an old staircase

To sometimes climb into the attic or repair the facade of a building, the available height of the stairs is not enough. To build up an old staircase, overlapping boards are nailed to the support beams. However, you should check how strong the old structure is and whether it can withstand the additional load. It is also important to remember that the height of the ladder should not be more than 5 meters.

It is perhaps difficult to find a household that does not use a wooden ladder. This fairly simple device can replace a stationary staircase in many situations, and therefore, for private households, it is, without exaggeration, indispensable.

Also, ladders and stepladders are often used on construction sites, since before the construction of permanent structures it is necessary to climb to the upper floors using steps.

In the article we will talk about the requirements that such a staircase must meet, and also describe the technology for its independent production.

Current standards

Very often, to lift to a height, craftsmen make the simplest structure - they take two fairly long beams, and cross boards are nailed onto them... However, the performance properties of such structures can be very different, so it is better not to take risks, but to be guided by generally accepted standards.

Requirements for the production and operation of ladders, as well as the procedure for testing them for strength, are set out in a number of regulatory documents.

Among them:

  • GOST 24258 – 88: Technical conditions for scaffolding and temporary structures.
  • SNiP 12 – 03 – 2001: Labor protection in construction. General provisions (part 1).
  • POT RM-012-2000: Rules for labor protection during work at height (interindustry document).

However, the main GOST for the manufacture of structures of this type is still 26887-86 “Stairs and platforms used for installation and construction work.”


The information in the above standards is partially duplicated, therefore, if you decide to make an attached structure for personal use, you only need to read the latest document.

Manufacturing restrictions

What are the main requirements for wooden ladders?

  • The maximum length of the structure should not exceed 5 meters.
  • The lower support end should be equipped with a special stop in the form of a steel pad or rubber shoe. The upper part is additionally equipped with removable or stationary hooks.

Note!
Steel shoes are used when working on the ground, rubber shoes are used when installing on dense surfaces (asphalt, concrete).
Installation of removable pads is allowed.


  • The pitch between steps should be from 300 to 340 mm. The cross-section of the step is no less than 20x40 mm.
  • Each step must be installed in a groove made in the vertical post of the structure (the so-called bowstring).
  • The strings are fastened together using tie bolts with a diameter of 2 mm or more. Bolts are placed under the upper and lower steps, as well as along the entire length of the structure in increments of no more than 2 meters.
  • Only longitudinal cracks are allowed in wooden bowstrings and steps. The maximum length of the defect should not exceed 150 mm, and the depth should not exceed 5 mm.

Note!
The presence of transverse cracks, chips, as well as other defects that impair the quality of fastening of elements or the general performance characteristics of the structure is not allowed.

If a ladder is used in production, then an inventory number must be applied to its string, and the area in which it is listed is also indicated. Quality control and strength testing are carried out at least once every six months.

Making stairs

Connection types

Naturally, all of the above requirements apply to ladders used at construction sites and industrial enterprises. For a private house, a simpler design will be sufficient - but it also needs to be made correctly. Below we will tell you how to make a wooden ladder with your own hands. (see also Attic stairs)

To begin with, you should decide on the staircase diagram itself.

There are several ways to connect a bowstring to steps, and below we will look at the most commonly used:

  • Surface mounting. This connection method is the simplest: we lay the boards used as steps on longitudinal bars and fix them with nails. The disadvantage is that you have to stand on the edge of the board, which is very inconvenient.
  • Invoice with insert. With this method of fastening, the steps are made not from boards, but from beams of square or similar cross-section. Under each block on the string, a selection is made into which a step is installed.
  • Tenon connection involves the formation of protrusions - spikes - at the ends of the steps. The spikes are inserted into grooves on the bowstrings, providing reliable fixation.

Advice!
For the most durable fastening, the tenon can be made not straight, but inclined.

Materials

What do we need for work?

The list of materials is very modest:

  • First, we need two long bars for the bowstring. Any coniferous tree will do, as long as it is smooth, without knots, cracks or cross-layers.

  • If the dimensions of our product do not exceed 3 meters, then it is enough to take bars with a cross-section of 40x50 mm. For longer stairs, it is worth using blanks 40x80 mm: although their price will be higher, but we will get a solid margin of safety.
  • We also make the steps from pine timber. The optimal cross-section is about 35x40 mm. The requirements for wood are the same as for a bowstring.

Advice!
For work, it is worth using dried wood, pre-treated with an antiseptic.

Blanks for elements

When the materials are available, you can begin work and make the stairs.

The manufacturing instructions are as follows:

  • We cut blanks for vertical racks to the required size and process them with a plane. There should be no splinters, knots, etc. left on the surface of the beams.
  • We lay the workpieces so that the distance between the lower supports is about 400 mm, and between the upper ones – 300 mm. We connect the beams with fastening strips, preventing them from moving.
  • We also plan the blanks for the steps using a plane. To ensure comfortable movement on the stairs, the corners of the bars are partially rounded.

  • We distribute the steps between the vertical supports, observing the standard distance (from 30 to 34 cm). We number the blanks and cut them to length in accordance with the required dimensions.
  • Using a furniture router or circular saw, we cut out 15x30 mm tenons at the ends of the steps.
  • Having removed the temporary fastenings from the strings, we hollow out grooves in them for installing the steps. The dimensions of the groove should be such that the tenon fits completely into it with little resistance.

Assembly of the structure

After completing these works, we proceed to the final assembly:

  • Lubricate the tenons and grooves with wood glue.
  • We insert the steps into the corresponding holes on the bowstrings, starting from the top edge.
  • In the assembled staircase, we drill holes under the top and bottom steps and insert tie bolts into them. Secure the tie with nuts and wide washers.
  • We also install couplers every 2 meters of the length of the stairs.

When the glue dries, sand the stairs and treat them with wood impregnation. The finished product can be varnished or painted.

Conclusion

As you can see, making a wooden ladder with your own hands is quite simple. The main thing here is not to follow the path of least resistance, but to try to adhere to the requirements for the reliability of the product: this is the only way to guarantee your safety when ascending and descending. In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

In a private home, such a device as a wooden ladder is a mandatory attribute.


After all, the simplicity of its design, wide possibilities for use and ease of operation allow it to be used in a wide variety of cases. A wooden ladder will be a real boon if you need to climb into the attic; you can store it right in the house.

Extension ladder and its main characteristics

Due to its parameters, such a staircase is widely used in private households. The possibility of its independent production is explained by the simplicity of its design.

You should know the main characteristics of a wooden ladder.

The advantages of such a staircase

Important positive characteristics of such a structure include:

  • aesthetic appearance;
  • the ability to use materials with the required qualities and environmentally friendly when producing or purchasing it;
  • There are many options for such stairs. The choice of the type and size of the staircase is determined by personal preferences and the scope of its application;
  • To maintain the attractive appearance and functionality of such a staircase, a minimum amount of available materials is sufficient. These will include impregnations, wood antiseptics, and special paints. All these funds are quite affordable; depending on your financial capabilities, you can choose what is suitable in a particular case.

Regardless of the type of staircase made of wood, it requires proper care. This will allow you to preserve its working qualities and attractive appearance for a long time. Our website describes in detail the methods of caring for wooden stairs. By following these tips, your ladder will always be reliable and beautiful.

Minuses

However, a wooden ladder also has a number of disadvantages. They must be taken into account when making your own and when purchasing.

The disadvantages of this design include its limited load capacity - a load of no more than 120 kg can be carried on it. Also, wooden extension ladders are not very stable. In terms of stability, stepladders are more suitable. To ensure greater stability of the ladders, it is recommended to attach rubber “shoes” to the lower part of the ladder upon completion of its manufacture or when purchasing a finished product. They do not slip even on a perfectly flat surface.

Another disadvantage is the need to store a wooden ladder indoors. Compliance with the temperature regime and the absence of sharp fluctuations in humidity will allow you to preserve its attractiveness and basic properties for a long time.

Step-by-step self-production

A wooden ladder is quite easy to make with your own hands.

To do this, you must first stock up on the necessary materials and tools. The sequence of actions during manufacturing will allow you to avoid errors that could lead to deterioration in the functional qualities of the device.

Tools and materials

Manufacturing will require a certain amount of materials and tools. Representing a solid structure of two long beams and a certain number of cross beams, an extension ladder for fastening the parts together may require screws, a screwdriver, and wood glue. The tools you will need are a saw, a level, corners (in some versions of the stairs they can be used to support steps), and rubber “shoes” to create a stop.

Sequencing

In order for the ladder to be as stable and convenient as possible during use, it should be made no longer than 5 m, the distance between the crossbars is about 35 cm. Metal crossbars are installed below and above, and if the length is sufficient, every 2 m: they ensure the rigidity of the structure.

To build such a staircase, you should follow the following steps sequentially:

  1. Two beams are selected that will have the length of the stairs in the final version. They should not have chips, cracks, or knots. This will provide the greatest strength to the product. The preferred thickness of the beams should be 4x8 cm.
  2. Mark the installation of transverse rungs along the entire length of the support beams. When calculating, we should not forget that the thickness of the steps should be about 5 cm.
  3. Marks are placed on both sides of the beams, taking into account the depth of the notch. The depth of the notch is 1.5-2 cm.
  4. Next, the cut is made to the indicated depth.
  5. The marks are connected using a straight line. Next, the top layer of wood is removed, the ax blade is placed on the joint line and tapped with a hammer.
  6. An ax is used to compare the bevel of the notch.
  7. In this way, notches are made on both side beams.
  8. The edges of the bowstring are polished with a grinder.
  9. The notches are also sanded and painted.
  10. While the paint dries, you should work on the steps. To do this, a chamfer is removed from each board. One of the ends is made the base. To do this, markings are made with a square, the ends are aligned with a saw and ground.
  11. The upper crossbar is made shorter than the lower one. The width is chosen arbitrarily. On average, it can range from 35 cm to 45 cm.
  12. 2 cm is indented from the edge of each beam. A line is drawn and the middle is marked on it.
  13. At this point a through hole is made using a drill.
  14. Now the steps are placed in the gaps on the side beams of the stairs.
  15. A self-tapping screw is screwed into the holes on the steps, which secures the steps to the side parts of the stairs.

By adjusting the length of the steps, we get a ready-to-use product - an extension ladder.

Rubber “shoes” are installed on the lower part of the side beams. This will reduce the potential for slipping and increase the stability of the structure. Now it should be properly treated with paint or varnish.

This will avoid the negative effects of moisture, temperature and time on wood.

Sooner or later, any household will need a ladder. Going down to the basement, going up to the attic, picking apples from trees - an ordinary wooden one will help everywhere. We will tell you how to make a reliable and simple design yourself, spending a minimum of money and time.

Do-it-yourself wooden ladder: calculating the dimensions

An extension ladder can be made:

  • made of metal;
  • made of wood;
  • combined.

We will tell you how to make an extension - it is the simplest and can be done even by a person without experience in carpentry.

Before purchasing materials for making a wooden ladder with your own hands, you need to make calculations. First of all, you need to decide on the height of the stairs. As a general rule, ladders higher than three meters are rarely required; in addition, especially tall structures require strings of greater strength and the installation of additional elements that impart rigidity to the entire staircase.

To make the simplest wooden ladder with your own hands, you will need wooden blocks of two sizes: 40x50 mm for the strings and 35x40 mm for the steps. You can also use ordinary wooden boards, from which steps of the required size are cut out according to pre-prepared cardboard templates.

The size of the steps consists of their thickness, length and width. The length of the step is essentially the width of the flight of stairs. For an attached wooden ladder, it can be 60 cm. This is a rather uncomfortable flight for an ordinary stationary ladder, but optimal for a compact and mobile stepladder. Safe step thickness is 35-40 mm. The width of the step should be comfortable for the foot. The optimal value is 20 cm. We calculate the number of steps so that the distance between them does not exceed 30 cm. This will be a fairly comfortable step height for an extension ladder. Thus, for a structure 3 m high, the number of steps will be 10 pieces.

By calculating the dimensions of the stairs, you will understand how much wood you need to purchase. For a standard ladder, this is approximately 7-8 square meters. m. The choice of wood is a separate issue. Especially for pine, which is generally not characterized by very high quality. Unfortunately, defective bars and boards are often found at building materials warehouses. The presence of cracks and large knots can lead to breakage of a finished staircase - or breakage of the beams during its construction. Therefore, the material for the future staircase must be chosen very carefully.

Wood defects

Usually, to make a wooden ladder with your own hands, they take pine wood, as it is the cheapest. And indeed, it would be strange to make such a thing. And the peculiarity of pine is that it has a large number of knots: try to ensure that the material you purchase does not have large ones that can make working with the tree difficult.

How to make a wooden ladder in your home workshop

The most optimal way to attach steps to strings is to make grooves (insets) in the strings into which the steps are inserted and secured with self-tapping screws. In order for the steps on the stairs to be absolutely level, markings for them on the strings are best done simultaneously, placing both strings next to each other.

Bowstrings and steps must be processed with a plane and cleaned well. Using a chisel, grooves for the steps are cut along the markings along the entire length of the bowstrings. Finishing the grooves is done with a file - this will make the surface more even. The side surface of the steps and the grooves are lubricated with wood glue, after which the steps are inserted into the grooves. To make sure the steps are level, use a level. After the glue has dried, you can secure the steps using self-tapping screws.

Let's reveal a little secret. When the staircase is ready, you may find that there are gaps at the junctions of the steps and supports: even with the highest quality wood processing, it is impossible to connect the structural elements so that the junctions are not visible. To remove these cracks, make the so-called “liquid wood”: mix PVA glue and sawdust remaining after cleaning the stairs to the consistency of a thick dough and cover all the cracks with the resulting paste.

To make the structure more stable and safe, the supports are fastened in such a way that the width of the stairs at the bottom is slightly larger than at the top - that is, the length of the steps will be different. The photo below shows an example of just such a do-it-yourself wooden ladder.

Wooden ladder

After the staircase is ready, it must be covered with stain, and, if desired, additionally with ordinary colorless varnish, which will make the product a little more durable, protecting it from moisture and other adverse conditions.

If the staircase is intended to be used not only in the house, but also outside, the legs must be covered with a special rubber shoe. This will prevent them from rotting and make the structure more stable.

If you are making your own wooden ladder with a height of more than three meters or simply want the structure to be as strong and reliable as possible, it can be given additional rigidity by fastening the strings with several metal ties on bolts. 3-4 such rigid fastenings will be enough.

By the way, you can make a very simple design. It will take literally several hours to make, but it will also be the least convenient.

You simply screw the same bars for steps with screws to the front surface of the string bars, without bothering yourself with cutting out grooves and matching them level on both supports. Like in the photo below:


This is what the most primitive wooden ladder looks like, which you can make yourself

To make a wooden ladder with your own hands you will need:

  • saw;
  • plane;
  • chisel;
  • file;
  • drill;
  • Sander;
  • level;
  • wood glue;
  • Workbench.

Calculating the costs of making a wooden ladder with your own hands

To build a regular wooden ladder you will need to purchase:

  • wood blocks or boards;
  • stain;
  • fastener

The main costs here are, of course, wood. To make a simple staircase, you can get by with pine - this is the least durable type of wood, not particularly aesthetically pleasing, but the most economical. If more is required, you can choose birch or larch.

Pine timber for a staircase 3 meters high will cost about 7,000 rubles. The cost of stain is 700 rubles. You will spend about 1,500 rubles on fasteners and wood glue. In total, making a wooden ladder with your own hands will cost 9,200 rubles.

How profitable is it to make such a small mobile ladder with your own hands? From a financial point of view - not especially, because in stores with ready-made stairs you can buy a more durable and beautiful stepladder for 6-7 thousand rubles. As for attic stairs, there is no point in doing them yourself if your goal is to save money. Prices for attic stairs also start from 6,000 rubles. In addition, they will be made not from cheap and not very reliable pine, but from durable and high-quality beech. Here is one of these models from the assortment of the Moscow Stairs store worth 7,500 rubles:


Attic staircase Standart made of beech

Many ready-made stairs are not only convenient folding models, but are also equipped with an insulated hatch. Such a staircase will not take up space in the house at all, and cold air will not flow into the house through the exit to the attic.

Here is another similar model - the Dolle EUROBEST staircase. It costs only 6,890 rubles.


Attic ladder Dolle EUROBEST

Of course, doing something with your own hands is always nice. But contrary to popular belief, modern prefabricated staircases actually cost less than those built in a home workshop. And this is not surprising - wholesale prices for building materials are significantly lower, and mass production has always been cheaper than manual production.