To keep the underground dry, foundation ventilation is necessary. It can be done in two ways - using ventilation holes in the base of the building (vents or vents) or by placing an exhaust pipe on the roof and making several holes for air flow from different sides of the foundation.
If ventilation is not provided in an uninsulated foundation, humidity in the underground quickly increases, which sooner or later turns into condensation. Moisture in the form of steam comes through the ceilings from the house, as well as from the ground. Since there is no ventilation of the foundation, there is no way to remove it; it accumulates in the soil under the house, in the walls of the basement, and settles on floor beams, on subfloor boards and/or sheathing materials. Where there is a positive temperature and high humidity (under a heated house, even in severe frosts, the temperature is always above zero), bacteria and fungi always multiply very actively, and materials rot. As a result, very unpleasant odors penetrate into the house and materials are destroyed.
The second reason why underground ventilation is necessary is radon gas, which is released from the soil, and sometimes in considerable quantities. It is a naturally occurring radioactive gas. Without ventilation, radon accumulates in the upper part of the underground space and gradually seeps into the house. It is probably not necessary to tell what the presence of radioactive gas in residential premises can lead to. So this is another good reason why it is necessary to ventilate the subfloor.
There are two ways to ventilate the underground space:
The second solution makes it possible to improve aesthetics and prevent the subfloor from getting cold due to drafts, but it requires significant material investments. This option is suitable if you are going to build an energy-saving, well-insulated house. In all other cases, it is more appropriate to vent the foundation.
Ventilation holes in the foundation are made of round or square cross-section. If desired, it can be triangular or any other shape. If only they were large enough in area to effectively remove moisture from the subfloor.
The dimensions of ventilation holes in the foundation are regulated by SNiP (SNiP 31-01-2003). Paragraph 9.10 states that the area of the vents must be at least 1/400 of the total area of the subfloor. For example, if you have a house measuring 8*9 m, the underground area is 72 square meters. m. Then the total area of vents in the foundation should be 72/400 = 0.18 sq.m. or 18 sq. cm.
The same paragraph of the standard specifies the minimum ventilation area - it should not be less than 0.05 sq.m. If we translate into dimensions, it turns out that rectangular holes should not be less than 25*20 cm or 50*10 cm, and round ones should have a diameter of 25 cm.
In multi-storey buildings this is done, but in private buildings such holes look too large. Usually they are made two times smaller, while increasing the number of vents so that the total area of the vents is not less than the recommended one.
Make vents in the foundation 15-20 cm below the top edge of the tape. If the base is low, a recess is made in front of the vent - a pit. But ventilation of the underground is required.
The vents in the base are placed evenly on all sides of the foundation opposite each other. This is necessary for the foundation ventilation to work properly. The wind, “flying” into one hole, will fly out into another, taking with it water vapor and radon.
The distance between two adjacent vents in the basement is about 2-3 m. If there are any partitions inside, at least one vent is needed for each “room”. It is also necessary to make vents in the partitions themselves to allow air masses to move and form a draft. This is exactly what we need. In order for movement to be more or less free, the area or number of holes in the internal partitions must be larger and better, if it is 2-3 times larger. You can make several holes the same size as in the base, or you can make one, but wide one. The second option, by the way, is preferable - the resulting passages can be used to service the underground.
Vents in the foundation of any format must be covered with gratings to prevent living creatures from entering the underground. It is desirable that the grilles are metal and the holes are small. For mice, plastic is not a problem, and keeping them out is easier than dealing with them later.
Vents are formed at the foundation manufacturing stage. If we are talking about a strip monolithic foundation, then the embedded parts are laid and secured after installing the reinforcing frame. To organize round vents, plastic or asbestos-cement pipes are laid. Their edges are brought flush with the outer edge of the formwork and secured well. If plastic pipes are used, sand is poured into them and the edges are closed with plugs. This is necessary so that the mass of concrete does not flatten them when pouring. These mortgages are not removed after the formwork is removed.
Rectangular vents are formed from boards, knocking down a box of the required size. It is also installed in formwork, but after the concrete has set, the wood is removed.
If the base is built of brick, you can periodically trim the bricks or install a half instead of a whole. In concrete block plinths, take several pieces with two large holes and make them through. Installed instead of one of the “normal” ones. If the foundation and plinth are built from reinforced concrete blocks, vents are made at the joints.
Vents are organized in approximately the same way in columnar and pile (screw, bored, TISE) foundations. When the gaps between the supports are covered with the selected material, the required number of holes is left, the total area of which is equal to 1/400 of the area of the subfloor.
This way you can insert a pipe for an vent into a base made of blocks
What to do if there is a foundation, but they forgot to make vents or their sizes are insufficient for normal ventilation - fungus, high humidity and other “charms” have begun to multiply in the underground. There are several ways to solve the problem:
There are two points of view on whether to close the ventilation holes in the underground for the winter or not. If they are left open, moisture will not accumulate. And this is good, but in return we get a cold floor and increased heating costs. The solution is enhanced floor insulation so that ventilation does not affect its temperature and does not require increased heating.
If the vents are closed for the winter, moisture accumulates in the soil. Warm, moist air from the house enters the floor, falling on cold surfaces, and in winter these are the walls of the basement, the moisture condenses and flows into the ground. This means that later, in the summer, it will evaporate from there, increasing the humidity in the basement.
This is a complex set of works, which begins with the installation of a drainage system. Water must be diverted from the foundation so that it does not seep into the building due to the hygroscopicity and vapor permeability of concrete. By the way, it can be reduced significantly by using a primer for deep penetration concrete with polymers.
The next stage is waterproofing the foundation and plinth and insulating them. Waterproofing can be coated or built-up. Insulation - for this case, they recommend EPPS - extruded polystyrene foam. It is ideal for these conditions: in addition to excellent thermal insulation characteristics, it is not hygroscopic, does not allow water to pass through in either liquid or gaseous states, insects and animals do not like it, it does not rot, and microorganisms do not multiply in it.
The blind area is insulated with the same material, because without this the soil in the underground may freeze.
After this, it is necessary to minimize the flow of moisture from the soil - cover it with waterproofing material. You can use any material with suitable characteristics - from polyethylene film (density from 150 microns) to modern diffusion membranes, which will not interfere with steam escaping from the underground, but will not let steam in. The panels are laid with one overlapping the other by at least 15 cm, the knocks are taped with double-sided tape. Also, the waterproofing film is placed on the walls - 20-30 cm, where it is fixed using a pressure strip (fixed with dowels or nails, depending on the material of the base).
Next, a ventilation system is organized. One or more pipes are led to the roof (depending on the volume of the underground), several supply holes are made in the floor, preferably from non-residential premises. From the side of the house they are closed with ventilation grilles.
The foundation of any building needs ventilation even more than the facade and roof. This is especially true for a wooden house, due to the “breathing” properties of the material. To extend the life of a building, experienced builders will never forget to make vents - special holes to ensure air exchange outside and inside the base.
What does the production of air in the foundation provide? The musty smell disappears, fungus and mold do not develop, air humidity in the basement decreases, and the service life of the structure increases due to the absence of cracks and other damage.
To install vents, the lower part of the house, any type of foundation structure, is used. But on some types of foundation structures, vents are not installed:
1) the base is constructed of breathable material;
2) vents are made in the floor of the building;
3) a ventilation system is installed in the basement or underground;
4) in the process of constructing the base, a material was used that does not allow steam to pass through.
The main purpose of vents in the foundation is to ensure a healthy microclimate inside the house. Air ducts increase the service life of any building and are an excellent prevention of dampness and mold.
So, the vents at the base of the house perform the following functions:
External description of the vents and requirements for their installation
Many craftsmen are interested in the question: how to make vents in the support of a house, and what should they look like? The shape of the holes can be different: square or round. The construction of the vent must take into account the following nuances:
1) the length of the hole cannot be less than the width of the foundation of the house;
2) ventilation vents should be located opposite to each other;
3) if everything is done correctly, a through air flow will immediately begin to flow into the room.
Properly installed vents provide the base of the building with fresh air, removing unpleasant and foreign odors and excess moisture.
Installation of vents in the foundation is carried out in increments of 1.5 to 2 m. Each side of the house must have at least 2-3 pieces with a diameter of up to 10 cm. To prevent flooding of the basement with melt and groundwater, vents are located at a height of at least 0.3 m from the surface of the earth.
Each vent in the foundation must be of the correct size in order not only to survive the winter, but also to operate the house normally for a long time. According to building regulations, the area of all vents at the base of the house must be at least 0.0025 of the total area of the foundation. In other words, 25 cm2 of ventilation vents are installed for every 100 m2.
Optimal sizes for holes:
One large vent can always be replaced with 2-3 miniature ones; no one forbids the master to do this.
The holes in the foundation are located according to the following principle:
1) in proportion to the area and pre-made calculations;
2) the distance of each hole from the corner should not be less than 0.9-1 m;
3) vents are required on each side of the building;
4) if the foundation has a complex shape (bends, corners, etc.), ventilation ducts are also mounted on these structural elements;
5) the lifting height above ground level is at least 30 cm.
You can make foundation vents correctly by observing the following rules:
Before starting the installation of vents, it is necessary to carefully calculate their number, diameter and draw a layout diagram. Ventilation holes are installed during the period of reinforcement of the base, for which asbestos-cement pipes with a cross-section of 150 mm are placed in the reinforcement mesh.
The installation of air ducts is carried out immediately along the entire perimeter of the house.
A very important nuance: when the foundation is concreted, it is necessary to pour soil into the ventilation holes to prevent them from clogging.
The pipes are fixed in the reinforcing belt of the base with wire. Installation of vents is especially important under utility lines to prevent condensation or increase the moisture level of the material.
When the concrete has hardened, the formwork is dismantled and the ventilation holes are cleared of soil. At this stage, metal grilles are installed to protect the basements from unwanted pests.
Many owners of their own homes are interested in the question: should they close the vents for the winter or leave them open? It all depends on whether the basement is heated or not. If the ventilated space is heated and is actively used during the cold season, there is no need to close the ventilation holes. This threatens the appearance of dampness, musty smell and premature destruction of the building’s foundation.
If the basement of the house and the entire building are used only during the season (spring - summer - early autumn), then it is better to close the vents. Some owners of country houses prefer to not completely cover the vents in order to leave a flow of fresh air into the room.
Important: if you leave the foundation ventilation holes open for the winter, you will have to take care of additional thermal insulation of the ground floor floor and ensure a more comfortable microclimate in the house.
Vent in the foundation of the house updated: February 26, 2018 by: zoomfund
Foundation ventilation will protect your basement from premature destruction caused by the decomposition of building materials impregnated with condensation of water vapor. After all, it is in the condensate that those colonies of aggressive microflora (mold, fungus, etc.) “live”, which, sooner or later, will destroy the entire basement structure.
Therefore, it is customary to install ventilation openings - vents - in the body of each foundation, except, perhaps, for the slab version of the foundation.
Ventilation of the foundation of the house
In this article we will look at the nuances of ventilation of pile and strip foundations, starting from calculations of the dimensions of the vents and ending with the practice of arranging and operating ventilation ducts.
Any ventilation, as an air exchange process carried out in a certain volume, is based on the mechanical or natural impulse of the influx and exhaust of air masses.
Ventilation under the foundation works only due to the natural impulse of flow. Moreover, it’s not even a matter of temperature or pressure differences - everything is complicated with foundations. The principle of operation itself is based on the elementary “blowing” of the basement space with ordinary winds, the gusts of which rage in the atmosphere all year round.
And this is, perhaps, the most reliable ventilation option: after all, with proper selection of the dimensions and location of the vents, drafts provoked by the wind will “stretch” the entire basement space of the house, providing multiple air exchanges in the foundation area.
Foundation ventilation device
Effective ventilation of the foundation in a wooden house or brick building is possible only if there is an influx of a sufficient portion of air masses. In turn, the volume of inflow depends on the dimensions of the ventilation holes - vents. Thus, the efficiency of the entire ventilation system serving the foundation of the building depends on the size of the vents.
Therefore, in building regulations there is a special section devoted to calculating the dimensions of vents. Moreover, the easiest way to determine these dimensions is to compare the area of the ventilation hole and the area of the basement of the building. The construction rules SP 54.13330.2011 even indicate the proportion of such a comparison - 1:400.
Example: if the area of your floor (basement) is 100 square meters, then the area of the vents sufficient to service such a base cannot be less than 0.25 m2 (1/400 x 100).
At the same time, it is necessary to understand that vents are arranged exclusively in pairs, located along one axis - this enhances the energy of the draft. Because of this, the total number of vents cannot be less than 4 pieces (one hole in each “wall” of the base tape). Therefore, the area of one vent is determined by dividing 1/400 of the floor area by the recommended paired number of channels for ventilating the base.
Example: if the area of the vents is 0.25 square meters, and the number of channels cannot be less than 4, then the area of one vent is 625 square centimeters (0.0625 m2).
However, both the number of vents and the location of these ventilation holes are determined solely by the type of foundation.
Placement of foundation vents
Foundations on piles or short pillars involve the construction of a strip plinth that blocks access to the supporting elements of the foundation structure. Moreover, vents can be installed both in a finished base and in a belt under construction.
Ventilation arrangement during the construction of the basement is carried out as follows:
From the point of view of ease of arrangement, the installation of vents during the construction of the plinth strip looks preferable to the operation of “cutting through” ventilation ducts. After all, when cutting out the vent, it is necessary to use a special tool - hammer drills, grinders, drills with special attachments - with the help of which they pierce a fairly strong wall of the tape. Let's say right away - this is very hard work.
Foundation ventilation on screw piles
From the point of view of the process of arranging vents, the strip foundation is arranged in a more complex way than the pile version of the foundation. Indeed, in addition to the external tape that holds the walls of the house, inside such a foundation there are special partitions on which the internal interior partitions are based.
Therefore, the process of forming ventilation channels in the strip base is as follows:
After a week, you will remove the formwork and push out the wooden block from the tape, which will slide out of the roofing felt wrapper, opening the air channel.
Design for pouring a strip foundation
In the test above, we figured out how to make ventilation in the foundation. However, even the most effective ventilation will not give the expected result if the system is not used correctly.
Therefore, all owners of houses on pile or strip foundations must adhere to the following rules for operating foundation ventilation:
As you can see: the operating rules are very simple, but this does not negate the effectiveness of the above recommendations. Operating in this mode, the foundation ventilation system will ensure a very long service life for the foundation of the house.
A competent ventilation system in a private home ensures a healthy indoor microclimate at the lowest installation and operating costs. Neglect of ventilation threatens not only the appearance of mold and dampness, but also a deterioration in the health of residents due to the inhalation of harmful impurities accumulating in the air of an unventilated room.
The need for home ventilation
For a private house with an area of up to 300 square meters, the best ventilation method would be a supply system.
If the house is larger, it is necessary to install a supply and exhaust system.
Pipes for ventilation in a private house are the basis of the future system.
They are installed vertically from the kitchen through the roof up. One pipe carries air out of the house, and another pipe enters the house. A fan is mounted on the second pipe. It can be equipped with on and off sensors, as well as a power control board with which you can change the air supply power.
Pipes for ventilation in a private house, as a rule, are of round cross-section.
They have less resistance to air flow. Although some experts recommend rectangular ones for ventilation in a private home, which are easier to install.
The exhaust ducts are connected to the living rooms, from here the air will enter the kitchen and bathrooms and be blown outside by a natural ventilation system.
The exhaust pipe can also be used as chimney ventilation in a private house.
The length of this pipe should not be too long, since the shorter it is, the less condensate accumulates in it.
The chimney ventilation in a private house must be insulated, since the air emanating from a stove or stove is always much warmer than the surrounding air. It is the lack of insulation that causes condensation to appear in the ventilation of a private house.
Exhaust ventilation ducts extend through the attic above the toilet, bathroom and kitchen areas.
If condensation does appear in the ventilation of a private house, an exhaust fan must be installed in these pipes. If desired, you can hang a kitchen hood, but you need to embed it into the ventilation system a little higher than the general exhaust fan.
To ventilate through the roof.
special pipes are used. But, as a last resort, you can take stainless steel pipes of suitable diameter. The joints between the roof and pipes must be sealed. And the pipes themselves must be positioned strictly vertically, otherwise condensation cannot be avoided.
Please help me arrange ventilation and chimneys in a house under construction.
The house is located in the Kyiv region, village. Borodyanka.
The dimensions of the house are 10x10 m, 2 full floors and a cold attic, ceiling heights are 2.8 m (1st floor) and 3 meters (2nd floor), material - gas block, panel ceilings. I plan to veneer it with brick.
At the moment, only the load-bearing walls of the 1st floor and the armored belt have been raised (there are no partitions yet); soon there will be panel ceilings, main walls of the second floor and partitions.
Interested in the following questions:
How and where to arrange ventilation for the bathroom, kitchen and boiler room on the 1st floor. (there is an option indicated in the drawing - in a panel ceiling, does it have the right to life?)
2. Is it possible to install ventilation ducts in the overlap panel, as in the attached drawing?
3. Is it better to install chimneys for the TTK and gas boiler in the boiler room inside or outside the house? (I was of the opinion that it would be better inside the house).
How and where to place the chimney for the TTK boiler, because... I am planning a gas condensing one, but in most cases it is chimneyless (turbo).
Please help with advice while it is possible to change anything.
For some reason I got the impression that internal chimneys and ventilation ducts are better than external ones. How and where it is better to place them.
Best regards, Anatoly.
I answer in order.
1. Your drawings show a classic version of the ventilation shafts; it can be safely implemented.
I would just like to add a small recommendation. On the first floor, a horizontal section of the air duct laid from room 3 (bathroom) to the VK3 shaft will negatively affect the operation of natural exhaust. I recommend installing a bathroom wall or ceiling fan in this room (you can read more in the article Ventilation systems for a private home (this site).
I advise you to provide the same in bathroom 9 on the second floor. A fan with an air flow rate of 100 m3/hour will be sufficient.
2. The question is not entirely clear. Is it possible to install ventilation ducts in the floor panel, as in the attached drawing? , but I'll try to answer.
If you meant using the voids of the floor panel as an air duct, then no, this is not possible, it is better to lay an air duct.
If you meant punching holes in the floor panel, then you need to know how they (the panels) lie relative to the walls in order to understand which edges of the panel will have to be punched.
To do this, it is better to consult with the designer; you may have to shift the channel bindings along the B axis.
3. When placing a chimney from a TTK in the middle of the house, you will have to: punch additional holes in the ceiling and roof; perform a set of works to seal the roof at the chimney outlet; in residential premises where the chimney passes in transit, it must be fenced with brickwork.
When placing it outside, you only need a hole in the wall of the boiler room and installation of fasteners to fix it and bring it to the desired height.
Options for laying a chimney and a couple of pictures of bathroom fans are attached.
Thank you very much for your answers.
In the second question, I meant to lay a corrugated metal air duct in the voids and, connecting it with galvanization, release it through the load-bearing (central) wall onto the roof.
Still, I wanted to clarify: which chimney would be better for the Third Transport Ring - an external coaxial one with insulation or an indoor one made of brick with a steel liner inside.
Kortes, the answer to this question depends on the design of the boiler room, or more precisely on the placement of boiler units in the room.
It is better to place a gas turbocharged boiler near the outer wall in order to bring the coaxial chimney horizontally outside and reduce the length of the gas pipeline inside the room.
The solid fuel boiler is not connected to the gas supply, and its installation depends on the passport recommendations for compliance with all service distances. Also, you need to take into account places for water supply, places for storage tanks, etc.
After determining this location, it will become clear where to lay the chimney. Here are the advantages and disadvantages of each option:
Advantages: vertical location of the chimney with a minimal horizontal section.
Disadvantages: takes up useful space; additional costs for arranging openings for the passage of the chimney and costs for carrying out fire safety measures.
Advantages: no disadvantages indicated for the internal installation of the chimney; It is more convenient to carry out installation from the outside.
Disadvantages: has a horizontal section; costs are required for chimney insulation.
Usually there is no priority: external or internal, it all depends on the specific case (placement of equipment in the boiler room), then an analysis is carried out, which is cheaper?
Which option in this case will cause fewer difficulties in implementation? Do you want to block one of the facades of the house with a chimney? Try to answer these questions for yourself, and you yourself will decide which option is right for you.
Today our story will be devoted to the elements of the heating system, with which many tragic incidents are associated, and first of all we are talking about chimneys.
If you have a bathhouse, cottage or residential building where an autonomous boiler is used, then you can potentially suffer from poor draft, which does not remove combustion products outside.
The accumulation of CO in the body can lead to “silent” death. If you want to know how to protect yourself and your loved ones, read the article to the end.
Ventilation and chimneys in a private metal house
Alas, we so rarely pay attention to clogged chimneys and ventilation ducts that we could find ourselves in “another world” several times already.
This happens because of our carelessness, since we begin to at least do something when, due to the smoke in the room, we cannot see the picture on the TV.
However, this is not so bad, the main danger is invisible and not felt by our receptors - it is carbon monoxide. It gradually begins to displace oxygen from below until it is completely squeezed out of the room.
In the photo - symptoms of CO poisoning
Advice: the chimney and ventilation are not installed in the same pipe according to SNiP.
After this, there is very little time left to save a person who will not even understand what is happening to him.
It would seem that what could be simpler than cleaning the chimney and ventilation duct in a timely manner, and then such a tragedy would never have happened.
Advice: set a time for yourself and regularly carry out preventive maintenance of ventilation and chimneys, doing the procedure yourself or hiring specialists.
Chimney and ventilation are allowed in one box
Below we will consider the most common causes of malfunctions of chimneys and ventilation ducts.
Although there are many more of them, almost all of them are associated with the usual irresponsibility of the owners:
Often the operation of supply and exhaust ventilation in an apartment leaves much to be desired due to shortcomings in the design of the system. At the same time, there are frequent cases when during construction workers use smoke and ventilation ducts as a kind of garbage chute. If clogged, they will not be able to perform their tasks to their full potential.
It happens that the system becomes clogged due to foreign objects:
Natural deposits on the walls of chimneys and ventilation ducts in the form of soot, dust and grease.
The first ones need to be cleared of soot immediately after such signs appear.
A blockage can appear very quickly after burning poorly dried firewood and household waste, as well as with a large amount of tar.
In such cases, cleaning the ventilation and smoke exhaust systems is mandatory.
The instructions also say that traction may weaken due to:
Advice: if there is no draft immediately after connecting the fireplace or stove, you should file a claim with the builders who installed the ventilation or chimney on the roof.
The cause of most poisonings during a fire from combustion derivatives is usually poor ventilation and smoke removal.
Therefore, rules and requirements have been developed that must be complied with when operating these systems.
Let's find out about them:
When the furnace operates continuously, inspection should be carried out once every three months. Ventilation ducts and smoke exhaust pipes must be checked every quarter, as well as in summer and winter.
Be sure to carry out maintenance of chimneys and ventilation ducts according to the schedule
They should begin work only after drawing up a ventilation and chimney inspection report.
Advice: these rules apply to both owners of private houses and institutions responsible for the maintenance and upkeep of apartments and ventilation systems in them.
In addition to the above generally binding rules, we recommend that you pay attention to the following:
This is especially necessary for those whose chimneys have a small internal cross-section;
To examine smoke and ventilation ducts, you can use two methods - classical and modern. In the first case, you will need a “ruff” on a long rope and a weight.
The second uses a lot of methods, including a video camera with spotlights.
Cleaning chimneys and ventilation ducts using a brush
The developed devices make it possible to estimate draft in ventilation and chimney quite accurately in a short time and without much effort.
Based on the results of the inspection, a canal inspection report is drawn up, drawn up in the form of a technical report of the established form. Then a conclusion is issued, which contains recommendations for design and repair work.
Checking ventilation ducts and chimneys using a video camera
The draft in the chimney and proper ventilation of the premises make it possible to create comfortable and safe living conditions in the apartment and house.
The video in this article will help you find additional information on this topic.
How to pour sugar into a glass: In order to pour sugar into a glass, you need to take a spoon, scoop it up, bring it to the cup and pour it out!
Newspapers instead of firewood: An interesting type of fuel can be obtained from newspapers. Tear the newspapers into separate sheets. Immerse each leaf in water. When the sheets are saturated with water, take them out and squeeze them out. When squeezed, form them into balls. Dry these thick newspaper balls in the sun. Now you can gather for barbecue.
Newspaper balls will burn for a long time and produce enough heat.
Construction of a house begins with a foundation, which, as we know, must be reliable and strong.
But many people forget about such an important point as ventilation holes. This is especially true for continuous strip foundations.
In this article we will tell you why ventilation holes in the foundation are needed, how to make them, what size they should be and whether it is worth closing them for the winter.
Ventilation openings are often called vents or vents.
What are they needed for?
As the name implies, they serve to ventilate the underground space. For example, you built a house on a strip foundation, and decided to lay the floor on the ground on wooden joists.
At this time, moisture rising from the ground gradually saturates the entire underground space, and since the temperature in the room and on the surface of the earth is different, condensation forms on wooden structures. Over time, the floor begins to rot from below, and mold forms.
Not only will an unpleasant odor begin to enter the room, mold will soon crawl onto the walls.
Even if you have laid concrete slabs as the floor, mold will sooner or later penetrate the room.
The same fate awaits basements that do not have exhaust ventilation.
So, to prevent such phenomena, ventilation holes are needed around the entire perimeter of the foundation.
There are several rules for the correct location of ventilation holes in the foundation.
First. An air vent should always be located near the corner of the house at a distance of no more than 100 cm.
This is necessary so that so-called dead zones do not form in the corners, in which there would be no air flow.
Second. Ventilation openings should be located as high as possible above ground level.
This is done so that in winter the snow does not block the path for air circulation, and in the spring, when the snow melts, water does not accidentally get inside.
If it is structurally impossible to make the vents at the required height, then you will have to constantly clear them of the snow that has accumulated around them.
Third. The vents should be located in pairs, opposite each other.
With this arrangement, air draft will be better i.e.
The faster the air flow, the faster the underground or basement is drained.
Fourth. The more frequently the holes are located, the better and more uniform the drainage occurs.
At the same time, you should not overdo it and make a lot of vents around the entire perimeter.
As a rule, one hole is made for every 2-3 m.
Fifth. Vents are best located on the smaller side of the foundation.
Probably, many have noticed that in houses for better exhaust, long pipes are installed and arranged as high as possible above the roof. This is no coincidence. The fact is that air flows in the direction with lower pressure, and the flow speed depends on the pressure difference. So, the longer the pipe, the greater the pressure difference, and therefore the air flow speed.
Thus, the same effect is achieved in the underground space.
This is not a mandatory condition, but desirable. 
Many people ask the question “What should be the size of the vents and how many of them are needed?”
It is reasonable. If you make large holes, then it will be cold in the basement or underground, and if you make small ones, then the effect will be minimal.
Therefore, it is necessary to find a middle ground so that the underground space is warm and dry.
According to building codes, the total area of all vents must be at least 1/400 of the floor area.
Thus, a foundation measuring 5x8 m on the inside should have ventilation holes with a total area of 0.1 m2.
Ventilation holes can be of any shape. As a rule, they are made round or rectangular.
For clarity, let’s calculate the number of vents for a 5x8 m house, which we discussed above.
We know that the total area of the vents for such dimensions should be 0.1 m2.
We will make holes along the short side, i.e. 5 m. The maximum distance from the corners is 1 m. For every 2-3 m there is one vent.
We find that at a distance of 1 m from the corners there should be one ventilation hole, for a total of two.
There is still 3 m left. We place another vent on this segment.
Thus, we got three vents on each side, respectively, on two sides there are only six of them.
If we divide 0.1 m2 by 6, we get the required area of one ventilation hole.
For those who decide to make round vents, let us remind you how the area of a circle is calculated:
S = πd2/4, where π is a constant equal to 3.14, and d is the diameter of the circle.
For example, let’s calculate the diameter of the vent if its area is 0.017 m2.
From the formula we find the diameter:
d = √4S/π = √4*0.017 m2/3.14 = 0.147 m.
If we convert everything into centimeters, we get 14.7 cm.
We think there should be no issues with determining the area.
Holes for vents are planned at the stage of construction of the strip foundation.
To do this, at the stage of tying the reinforcement and installing the formwork, asbestos or plastic pipes are laid.
When pouring concrete, the pipes must be closed on both sides to prevent concrete from accidentally getting inside.
If you forgot to make ventilation at this stage, you will have to sweat and drill them after construction is completed.
Definitely not.
The underground space must be ventilated year-round. Moreover, in winter, the temperature difference in the underground and indoors is greater, and accordingly more condensation will form.
For those who are afraid that this will make the house colder, the floors should be well insulated in accordance with building codes, then the ventilation holes will not have to be closed, and the underground will always be dry.
When building timber homes, developers must take responsibility for the process of building the base structure. It is especially important to take into account all technologies and not forget about competent ventilation. If the bottom of the foundation does not have air holes, excess moisture that accumulates in the lower area causes progressive destruction of supporting structures and the development of fungi and mold.
Air vents (vents, vents) are ventilation ducts placed in the foundation of wood and brick buildings.
Their main purpose is to create the natural ventilation on which a permanent residential building depends.
In the photo there is a blow in the foundation of a wooden house
Product editing work is quite simple, so many people will be able to do it individually.
If the owners of a wooden house do not have skills in the construction industry, it is recommended to use the help of experts.
There is no need to create a product in the following cases:
Before you start creating ventilation ducts in the foundation, you must correctly calculate their number and determine their location.
How to find the right air depends on the performance of natural ventilation.
To create them, the holes must be drilled so that their axes are in opposite walls.
This is achieved through openings that can allow natural air circulation in the main structure.
An important consideration to consider when building natural ventilation is the size of the blasts. If the window is small, there will not be enough air circulation in the underlying structure.
It is advisable to have channels of a sufficiently large size, which can affect the intensity of air flows and reduce the amount of moisture.
You can use this table to plot:
When calculating the height of the air holes, it should be taken into account that their total area is equal to 1/400 square or a technical underground basement (the area is divided by 400).
There are two conflicting opinions.
It is necessary to create a locking system that is used during the winter.
With the advent of natural ventilation in cold weather, it must be lost so that all air holes are closed with plugs in which it can act as fabric or foam (this can be released evenly and prevents moisture and cold air).
Closing the aperture does not reduce heat loss, but promotes moisture retention and, consequently, rotting of the floor, the development of fungi and microorganisms.
Ventilation in cold weather is no less important, but more important than in warm weather.
To protect a wooden house from rodent invasion, experts recommend installing grilles on the fan.
It should be borne in mind that the type of foundations used when installing a wooden house will directly depend on the order in which natural ventilation is created:
Monolithic foundation.
When laying this type of foundation, concreting work must be performed in several stages. During the construction of the formwork, it is necessary to make holes in the wooden elements in which the pipes are to be laid (through the structure).
All metal contact points with walls must be carefully sealed. The pipes are removed from the foundation after a week, when the concrete solution is completely frozen and acquires its properties.
The bases are made of brick.
In this case, a rash begins to form from the second layer of brick. Some bricks must be covered in a row, placing in their place pieces of pipes, which may have a round or square part.
The following types are installed so that they completely cover the visible limits of the metal.
third
Wooden construction clogs.
The construction of wooden houses must take into account existing shades. Natural ventilation in the basement of a wooden house will not only provide access to air, but will also avoid rotting, which is susceptible to wood cellulose.
In wooden buildings, explosions are created directly when laying bed gaskets between the first and second crowns. Some experts create ventilation channels between the base structure and the first diary.
Creating sound in the final foundation of a wooden house
To create sound in the foundation of a wooden house, you must act in the following sequence:
Diamond drilling
To independently design ventilation ducts in the foundation, you may need the following tools and materials:
If you turn to specialized companies, owners of wooden structures may find it difficult to create a natural ventilation base.
Experts will carry out a full range of inventory activities, the cost of which will directly depend on the diameter of the channels and their number.
The air created in the foundation of a wooden house is the most important element that forms the ventilation system.
Their timely and competent creation will allow residents to avoid many problems in the future.
(here he simply said why it is better to leave food for open winter)
Later, all released vents require no special maintenance. They will only be cleaned if they are full of seasonal waste and dust.
The IGLU disposable modular formwork system is used to produce a ventilated monolithic foundation slab. A monolithic ventilated foundation is formed by simultaneously concreting the main slab and base support beams.
This allows you to distribute part of the load onto the foundation slab, thus relieving the load-bearing beam. The effect of ventilation of the foundation is created using IGLU formwork elements, which are connected to each other into a single base for laying steel reinforcement.
Then the concrete is poured. The foundation slab is ready. A slab with the IGLU system is reliable and lightweight, and the empty space under the slab can be used for laying communication systems for supplying your home.
Important advantages of the IGLU ventilated foundation system include effective protection against Radon gas.
Radon is one of the most dangerous radioactive gases, colorless and odorless, a very powerful alpha emitter, it is 6 times heavier than air, its half-life is 3.8 days.
Providing protection from radon is one of the most important and main problems in the ecology of the whole world, which has been regularly discussed in the last 25 years by all countries.
According to studies, a person receives 60% of the dose of ionizing radiation from natural sources of radiation, while more than 50% of the radiation is caused by radon gas and its decay products!
Therefore, the problem of ensuring radiation safety at home is in the first place in many countries. It has been established that the average radon concentration in residential premises ranges from several tens to tens of thousands of Bq/m3. Most often, excess radon content (from 100 to 200 Bq/m3) is found on the first and second floors of a residential building.
Thanks to research, it has been revealed that the main sources of radon are: the geological space under the building, the building materials from which the building is built, the use of water and natural gas.
Therefore, when constructing new buildings and structures, it is important to conduct a proactive study of the radon content in soil air and the probable flux of radon from the soil.
The IGLU ventilated foundation system allows you to completely protect your home from the penetration of this dangerous “guest”.
In every house, no matter what materials it is built from, a certain humidity must be maintained. If it is excessive, fungus may appear, and this harms not only the wooden surfaces of the building, but also its residents. To avoid such unpleasant moments, every private building must have an air purification system, not only indoors, but also for the ground floor, which is especially relevant ventilation of the foundation of a wooden house A.
Providing a good and properly executed air purification system in the basement of a wooden building is vital. Ventilation in the foundation of the house must be carried out along the entire perimeter of the building’s base during the construction stage. Its quantity and dimensions are designed depending on many factors, such as:
If we take average values, then foundation ventilation It worked fine, just make a couple of holes on both sides. In this case, the size of the vent should be 100x150 mm. For a strip foundation, the distance of the ventilation hole from the ground level should be about 300 mm, but again taking into account the height of the foundation itself.
Ventilation of basements should be provided for at the initial stage of construction building - its design. And the actual installation of the system is carried out during the reinforcement of the foundation. Most often, foundation ventilation is made from asbestos-cement or plastic pipes. To do this, sections of a certain length are installed in the reinforcement structure along the entire perimeter of the building and secured with binding wire. To avoid concrete getting into the ventilation openings when pouring the foundation, they must be closed during construction work.
To ensure that the basement is properly ventilated and free of dampness and mold, experts recommend installing two holes with a diameter of at least 15 cm on opposite sides. This is quite enough for an ordinary wooden house.
If we are talking about constructing a structure in a low-lying area where there is no natural air movement, then it is recommended to make ventilation holes on all sides. At the same time, all foundation ventilation can be adjusted using plugs.
The arrangement process itself consists of the following stages:
The pipes in the ventilation openings must be positioned so that their end faces fit snugly against the inner surface of the formwork. For the most efficient operation of the foundation ventilation system and regulation of air flows in the future, it is recommended to make at least one additional hole, the functionality of which can always be limited using a special plug.
It is advisable that the vents in the warm season be covered with mesh or covered with a special perforated sheet of metal. This is necessary to prevent rodents from entering the house. In cold weather, it is recommended to completely close the ventilation openings to prevent frosty air from entering the basement.
It is imperative to pay attention to radius calculation for round pipes and sections for those having a rectangular shape. It is produced according to special formulas for each specific project and is necessary for its proper operation during operation.
The foundation of a building is where the construction of a house begins, and the destruction of the entire structure can also begin with it. Cracks appear at the base of the building, which will compromise its integrity. The reason for their occurrence is improper foundation ventilation or its complete absence. If you do not equip vents at the base of the house, then wooden elements - walls or floors - will begin to rot, which will entail irreversible destruction of the entire structure. Often during construction these small but important holes are forgotten, thereby reducing the life of the building:
Vents or vents are important elements of the foundation of a house that need to be thought through at the stage of building the foundation. They are small holes. Their organization has some rules and parameters that must be followed. This is laid down in the basic rules of construction. These structures are necessary in order to keep the temperature difference between the floor and the underground room at a level of no more than 2 degrees. Such conditions are created in the presence of properly organized ventilation.
But there are cases in which the arrangement of vents is not necessary. This is possible if:
The foundation design does not provide for the presence of vents in it in the cases listed above, but in other cases it is necessary to design the correct ventilation of the underground rooms.
The number and size of vents is calculated individually in each individual case. This indicator depends on the conditions in which the building is operated. When calculating, the following factors should be taken into account:
Foundation design technology provides the largest possible number of vents for swampy lowland areas or climates with high rainfall. Experienced builders recommend making vents in every wall of the foundation, even those laid under the internal wall of the building.
The size of the vents is calculated as follows: the total floor area is measured, then this figure is divided by 400. The resulting value is divided by the number of vents that are planned to be made. This figure will be the size of their optimal area. It is not difficult to calculate how many vents you need to make - the holes should be located every 2-3 meters along the entire length of the walls.
But these calculations are not correct for all climatic zones. For areas with high humidity, experts advise basing your calculations on the following example: per 100 sq. m of the basement, make 25 vents with a diameter of 11 cm.
Building regulations state that in a room that is not equipped with exhaust ventilation, vent openings must be sized in a ratio of 1 to 400, relative to the area of the entire basement. Make holes less than 5 square meters. cm is not allowed. If the area has a high radon content, the estimated number of vents should be increased by 3-4 times.
Before you begin, you need to prepare your tools. To arrange vents you will need:
The design of vents must begin at the stage of laying the foundation. For a strip foundation, this process begins during the installation of formwork for pouring concrete. The distance from the soil to the vent must be at least 30 cm. This is necessary so that when the snow melts, moisture does not get into the hole. In parallel walls, all openings must also be parallel.
To make the vent, round pipes are used; you can use a wooden beam, but in this case it may be difficult to remove it. Read below for information on how to properly remove timber from frozen mortar.
The process of laying vents looks like this:
Wooden beams embedded in wet concrete must be removed. To carry out the work you will need the following tools:
Routing:
For small concrete blocks into which small cross-section bars are placed, you can use the traditional method. Lubricate each block with any oil in advance. Removing the bar is much easier and does not require physical force. The ends of the vents are freed from paper and sand after the concrete mortar has hardened on the strip foundation. Foundation ventilation needs protection; for this purpose, a special grille is installed at each ventilation hole. A preventive measure necessary to ensure a constant flow of air into any room, including the basement. The mesh will additionally prevent rodents and insects from entering the house. The lattice can serve as a decorative element of the decoration. Modern industry offers different colors and types of these products.
To effectively supply air to the vegetable storage room, ventilation ducts are provided. A common option for installing a system is to install paired pipes. One is placed under the ceiling, the second is lowered to a distance of 0.5-0.7 m from the floor level. Natural traction is created. A hood can decorate the exterior of a house and the foundation; photos with interesting, original types of grilles will help you determine your need for such a design and choose the option you are interested in.
Carry out seasonal cleaning of ventilation vents. Purchase a long, strong, lightweight stick or pole. Place a polypropylene whisk on one end and insert it into the hole to the maximum possible depth. Rotate the tool several times clockwise and counterclockwise. Rinse in clean water and clean again. Wash protective nets or grilles with a soda solution, not a soap solution.
There are many reasons for the lack of vents in a built house. There is only one way out of the situation - to correct the defect.
Method one, for the case of an unfinished building.
Method two for a residential building:
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