Echeveria or Echeveria is an exotic plant, a guest from the hot and dry regions of Mexico. Growing echeveria is not a challenge for the gardener.
A stone rose requires minimal effort, but gives scope for creating modern compositions:
One very important caveat: if you don't have a bright, warm place for your echeveria, don't buy this flower.
Echeveria (Echeveria) or stone rose is a herbaceous succulent plant or low shrub from the Crassulaceae family. The shape of the plant resembles a rose carved from stone. There is a mention of the stone rose in the works of the mid-16th century by the Spaniard B. de Sahagún. He points to the Aztecs' use of the flower as a refreshing and softening agent. Already in the 19th century, many stone images were presented by Atanasio Echiverria y Godoy in books describing the flora of Mexico. This genus of succulents was named after him.
Stone rose has the following characteristics:
We emphasize that this article is devoted to echeveria, which looks like juveniles, but is exclusively an indoor plant for the middle zone. Please do not confuse these plants, so as not to accidentally plant echeveria in open ground, because it categorically does not tolerate low temperatures, not to mention frost. The young ones winter well, even without shelter. In the genus Echeveria, anyone can find a plant to their liking, because the diversity is represented by two hundred species.
List of sufficient conditions for keeping echeveria.
We always remember that echeverias are desert succulents, and their enemies are overwatering and cold.
Stone roses prefer:
In warm and cold seasons, stone roses require different temperature conditions:
As for, you need to wait until the lump of earth under the plant dries out for the most part, then water it. In winter, watering is reduced even more. In general, in winter, the main task is to preserve the plant, prevent it from stretching out, leaning to one side, or loosening it. It is necessary to preserve it, as it were, with the help of artificial drought.
Echeverias love dry air, they feel amazing near heating devices, they cannot tolerate spraying, it is not even recommended to water them on leaves or inside the socket, although nothing bad will happen, provided that the water quickly evaporates from the funnel (because tropical rain also does not choose where to pour) .
Water needs to be at room temperature, separated. An excellent result is achieved by watering with water from the aquarium, if possible (the water is already enriched with microelements).
During the warm period (turbulent growing season, flowering), fertilizers for succulents are applied once a month (along with watering, half the dose indicated), during flowering - fertilizers for flowering plants. Echeverias are not fertilized in autumn and winter. Purely nitrogenous fertilizers and organic matter are not recommended.
After purchasing echeveria, some gardeners recommend immediately replanting the plant from shipping soil, since it is not intended for plant growth. Experienced succulent lovers say that nothing will happen to the plant after a month in the transport soil; this time will give the flower an opportunity to acclimatize, survive stress, and get used to new living conditions.
Place the pot in a slightly shaded place and dry until aerial roots begin to appear. This is especially true for imported flowers (Dutch flowers). Sometimes stone roses do not survive the move and disappear for no apparent reason. Plants grown in local nurseries tolerate changes more easily.
Typically, such material is of higher quality and costs more. However, it should also dry out in the window.
What soil mixture should I plant echeveria in? In its natural environment, it is a rocky desert, where water does not stay at the roots. The same should happen in the pot. The substrate must be mixed with small pebbles, broken bricks, gravel (fraction 3-5 mm).
You can use clean pea gravel plus a little cialite (if slow plant development is desired).
It’s easy to check if the soil mixture has been mixed correctly - a lump of wet substrate, held in your hand, crumbles after being squeezed.
Choosing a pot for a stone rose is a simple matter. You know the approximate diameter of the plant, take a pot 1-1.5 cm larger, flat (to match the root system) with many drainage holes. Small planting material can be planted in small cups for growing, and then transplanted to a permanent place.
A large pot or bowl is used for group plantings of one or different types of echeveria. To prevent water from stagnating in large containers, they need to be watered with extreme care.
We fill the bottom of the pot with drainage and some substrate, place the plant and fill it with substrate up to the root collar. If planting in clean gravel, then cover the bottom a third with pebbles, place the seedling and fill the remaining volume with them. This method is very simple and economically justified, since the stones last forever and perfectly aerate the roots. There is one warning - we use gravel of a larger fraction.
We replant small roses once a year, and as they grow, we select a larger pot. Mature plants - once every three years (as needed).
The stone rose is ready to bloom at 2-3 years of age. In the hot and dry conditions of our apartments, echeverias bloom successfully on the windowsill. There are flower growers who do not like the flowering of echeverias; they prefer the decorative appearance of rosettes.
If you want to see flowers, but there are none, then you need to extend the daylight hours. Keeping echeveria for 45-60 days at 15-18 degrees of heat and light for 12-13 hours will give the desired result - buds will appear. Then turn up the watering a little and feed it with fertilizer for flowering plants.
If a stone rose is infected by a mealybug, the following are observed:
If noticed in time, treat with karbofos solution (6 g + 1 liter of water). In case of severe infection, throw out the plant, separating healthy parts for propagation.
Signs of rootworm damage:
You should urgently remove the entire substrate and plant, water it with Arcade solution (1g+5l of water) with a break of 1 week.
When a root-knot nematode settles on a stone rose:
The plant must be replanted when these signs are detected, having previously removed the infected parts of the roots and kept them in water for half an hour (40-45˚ C). Spill the soil mixture with Arcade solution (1g+5l of water), repeat the operation 3-4 times.
Powdery mildew and fungal diseases occur with chronic overwatering. Control methods include drying the plant and treating it with fungicides. If it doesn’t help, then try saving the non-infected propagation material (leaf, top), and destroy the diseased plant so that it does not become a source of disease for others.
The succulent reproduces by leaf without any problems, and the process does not present any particular difficulties.
Root the echeveria leaf in the soil mixture:
Surprisingly, propagating echeveria by leaf can be even easier:
You have to be prepared for surprises, because on one leaf several children will develop, but on another there will be none (and this happens). Experiment to see which way you like best will give better results.
A complex method, similar to breeding work. Flower growers often grab it, because seeds are much cheaper than ready-made plants.
There are some buts here:
If you are not afraid of these difficulties, then get started. The order is:
Before talking about specific plant signals about poor care, a few warnings should be given to novice gardeners:
How Echeveria shows that it is feeling bad:
Echeverias have enough vitality to survive temporary difficulties. Good luck with your rock rose breeding!
Florarium is a glass greenhouse (like an aquarium), the primary purpose of which was to create specific conditions for certain groups of plants. Since plant compositions look beautiful behind glass, florariums have begun to be used more widely - as interior items.
It's not difficult to create one. Choose any glass container:
Place a thick layer of coarse gravel on the bottom for drainage, then a thin layer of fine gravel so that the soil mixture does not spill into the drainage, and then a layer of nutritious soil mixture similar to the drainage (as for planting). Using a thin skewer, plant the plants (it’s easier to place the babies with embryonic roots on top).
Pre-study the types and varieties of echeverias and other succulents used in order to understand how each plant will develop (upward or outward) and how much space it will need over time.
Since the container does not have drainage holes, the substrate dries out much more slowly than in a pot, with careful watering. You can't spray either - it's a desert, it's a desert.
Similar mixes can be made in opaque containers; it is clear that you should not bury plants there; choose flat dishes and create by playing with colors and shapes of echeverias.
It is important to take care of the garden, trim the plants in time, this promotes bushiness. You can remove some echeverias and replant others.
Echeveria agavoides home care Photo of the variety Romeo
This is a perennial bush, there is practically no stem, the stone rose produces dense rosettes.
The leaves are filled, elliptical, with a sharply tapering end, plate size 9x6 cm. The color of the leaf is light green, turning yellowish or pink towards the edge.
The popular variety Taurus is completely purple, Romeo is a red-orange echeveria, has many shades, there are also variegated ones.
There is a visible bluish tint, which gives a waxy coating, the peduncle rises above the center of the rosette to a height of 40 cm. Unusual flowers are bells, red or yellow. The flowering period occurs in spring or summer.
The plant is distinguished by a characteristic short stem; the rosette grows up to 15 cm in diameter. The lanceolate leaves on the back are convex, arched, and filled with moisture. The leaf color is green with a brownish edge. As the name suggests, the leaf is covered with whitish hairs. The peduncle (40-50 cm) ends in brownish-red flowers. Spring bloom.
It is distinguished by bushiness, the main rosette produces thick shoots with small rosettes - children at the end. The oblong leaves end in a narrow tip. The leaf blade measures 10x4 cm, with a waxy coating along the edge of the leaf. Blooms in February and March with deep red flowers.
Loose rosettes crown the tree-like stem; the number of green-gray leaves with a pinkish or brownish tint in the rosette is about 20. The rounded leaves in some varieties have a wavy edge. Beautiful purplish-yellow inflorescences (6-15 cm) are crowned with a slightly leafy peduncle (up to 1 m).
This stone rose has regular, dense rosettes up to 6 cm in diameter, with succulent shoots spreading along the ground. The spatulate leaves (4x2 cm) are pressed against each other, the color is gray-green, turning into pink towards the edge of the leaf. Short (5-6 cm) flower stalks grow from the axils of the upper leaves in mid-spring. Each peduncle bears 3-5 yellow-orange flowers.
The graceful echeveria has a characteristic stemless shape and dense lotus-shaped rosettes. The sharp ends of the rounded leaves (5x2 cm) are directed upward. A bluish coating is visible on light greenery, which is not recommended to be touched or washed, it practically does not recover and the plant loses its decorative effect. The branched peduncle stretches upward and ends in pink-red bells with yellow tips. This is one of the most favorite types of echeveria for many gardeners due to its high decorative qualities.
Echeveria pulvinata ‘Ruby Blush’ photo
A low-growing succulent, the erect stem is crowned with a loose rosette reaching 10 cm in diameter. The leaves are “fat”, arched below, oval, with a spine at the tip; the light edge gives a special charm. It blooms in early spring, producing a low peduncle with yellow-red flowers. A highly ornamental plant with many varieties.
It has sessile rosettes (10-15 cm), leaves (5x3 cm) are light, gray, oval, triangularly pointed at the ends, colored pink. You can’t take your eyes off the drooping erect peduncle. The one-sided placement of “frost-covered” pink flowers that appear in June also adds to the effect.
The rosette resembles a cabbage in cross section; the stem is very short. The color of the plant is gray-green. A sharp needle emerges from among the flounces of the edge of the leaf plate. In winter it sheds a significant part of its foliage. The peduncle is much higher than the rosette, dotted with lanceolate leaves. Flower color is pink.
A succulent bush, the rosette resembles a chrysanthemum flower - the leaves are so organically placed that they form a hemisphere. The leaves are fleshy (10x4 cm), green in color, appearing gray in places due to the thick white edge. The peduncle (30 cm) is also covered with bristles; in May - June, many fiery flowers bloom - red, turning into yellow.
Most of all it resembles a stone flower due to the thick waxy coating on the bluish leaves, the rosette is large - up to 2 inches in diameter, monumental. The leaves have a size of 6x3 cm. The flowers are massive - 1.5 cm in diameter, orange, and also covered with a waxy coating. The flower is a sissy one, it requires a lot of attention - a lot of sun and little water in winter, it develops slowly.
Echeveria Runyonii ‘Topsy Turvy’ photo
Consider the variety Topsy-Turvy cv. Topsy-Turvy: The rosette resembles a star or chrysanthemum. The leaves are almost white due to the characteristic bloom. Plant hemispheres can reach a radius of 8 cm. The leaves are fleshy, back curved. The peduncle is low, drooping, with a small number of leaves. The flowers are yellow-pink.
Echeveria ‘Black Prince’ photo
Unusual green-brown, almost black coloring of leaves. The maximum diameter is 15 cm. In winter, a period of rest is required.
Echeveria with the proud name Black Prince (Echeveria agavoides cv. Black Prince)
A brutal beauty with leaves that are green from the base, turning into a dark burgundy, almost black hue. The more sun, the darker and more dramatic our prince.
We love her for:
Echeveria is a rather unpretentious, but at the same time spectacular plant. Thoughtful compositions with a combination of several types can become a real highlight of your apartment design. There is nothing difficult in growing and caring for echeveria at home: even a novice gardener can handle it.
The genus Echeveria is part of the Crassulaceae family. In total, according to various sources, there are from 150 to 180 species of these succulents in nature. The homeland of most of them is Mexico and the southern states of the USA, but some representatives can also be found in South America (Peru). The plant prefers low mountains and plains, where in summer almost all days are hot and sunny, and in winter, if there are frosts, they are very infrequent and insignificant.
The genus was named in honor of the 19th century Mexican artist Atanasio Echeverría Godoy, who, in addition to his main activity, was interested in botany, compiling and illustrating books dedicated to the flora of his homeland.
The collection of echeverias is guaranteed not to go unnoticed
A characteristic feature is the ability for interspecific crossing. Pachiveria (a hybrid with pachyphytum) and Graptoveria (with graptopetalum) were obtained through selection.
All echeverias are typical succulents. These are evergreen herbaceous or semi-shrub perennials that do not have a stem. It is replaced by a thick, short, fleshy, intensively branching trunk. The main thing that gardeners value Echeveria for is its leaves. They are also fleshy, even, smooth to the touch. A characteristic feature is a layer of whitish, silvery or grayish coating or velvety pubescence to the touch. This is protection from the scorching sun. Moreover, the hotter it is outside, the thicker the layer becomes. Because of this, it turns blue, and a noticeable reddish border appears along the edges of the leaves.
The leaves, arranged often and strictly in a spiral, form dense rosettes. From a distance they can easily be mistaken for flowers. The illusion is supported by an unusual coloring - pale green, with a slight lilac, red, gray tint. Because of this, echeveria has earned its unofficial popular name - “stone rose” or “stone flower”.
A rosette of echeveria leaves looks like a flower from afar In nature, the leaves reach sizes of 3–30 cm in length and 1.5–15 cm in width. At home, the parameters are approximately twice as modest.
The peduncle of echeveria is much taller than the plant itself. Growing from the middle of the rosette, depending on the type, it can reach 35–85 cm. The inflorescence is in the form of a brush, spike or umbrella, with many flowers resembling very small bells. All shades of yellow and orange predominate, sometimes with a greenish or reddish tint. The outside color is a little brighter than the inside. In nature, echeveria blooms in late spring or summer, with the exception of a few species that prefer to do so in mid-winter. Flowering is quite long - 15–20 days. If natural or artificial pollination has occurred, fruit-boxes with five nests are formed, in which small, dull brown seeds ripen.
Echeveria flowers are quite pretty The roots of the plant are located almost on the surface - this makes it easier and faster to absorb moisture. The root system is fibrous and branched.
Due to its external similarity, Echeveria is often confused with another plant belonging to the Crassulaceae family - sempervivum (popularly known as tenacious or young). However, unlike it, echeverias have an extremely negative attitude towards any cold weather.
Sempervivum leaves look thinner, more graceful, sometimes they may even seem translucent, and the rosettes are smaller in size. Even adult specimens of juveniles do not form stems. The sockets seem to lie on the ground. Echeveria, especially with a lack of light and heat, is capable of stretching. The lower leaves fall off and the rosette rises up.
To leave no doubt at all, you need to wait for the offspring to appear. In echeveria, “babies” develop only at the base of the stem. For this purpose, the young produce “whiskers”, at the ends of which offspring are formed.
Echeveria and Juvenile belong to the same family and are quite similar, but there are several distinctive features Of the many representatives of the species, most are suitable for indoor floriculture. But for various reasons, only a few dozen are the most common.
| View | Description |
| Agave (agavoides) | The stem of this bush-like plant, reaching 25–30 cm in height, is very short or completely absent. The leaves are delicately lettuce, translucent at the edges, with a noticeable reddish tint. At home, the leaf length is 4–10 cm, width is 5–6 cm. The plant blooms in late spring. The flowers are very small (1–1.5 cm), all shades of yellow-red. Very rarely, several inflorescences have pink coloring. |
| White-haired (leucotricha) | The name of the subshrub is due to the presence of a thick white edge, reminiscent of a long pile. Small (12–15 cm in diameter) rosettes are composed of lancet-shaped leaves with a brownish border. The flowers are bright red. Artists know this shade as cinnabar. |
| Shiny (fulgens) | A characteristic feature of the subshrub is not too intense branching. If shoots are formed, they are short and very thick. Inflorescence in the shape of a brush or umbrella. Bright scarlet flowers appear in late winter or early spring. |
| Gibbiflora | Of all the echeverias, it most closely resembles a tree. Stems are erect, sometimes slightly branched. Rosettes of grayish-green leaves with a brick or brown tint are located on the tops of the shoots. The leaf plate is similar to a lens - it is concave at the top and convex at the bottom. The leaves are large - 20–25 cm long, 10–15 cm wide. At the end of summer, the plant produces a tall (up to 1 m) peduncle. Inflorescence in the shape of a spike. The flowers are muted scarlet on the outside, yellowish on the inside. Many hybrids have been bred through selection. The most famous are carunculata (the leaves are covered with small tubercles, as if twisted), crispata (the leaves with corrugated edges are silvery) and metallica (leaves with a whitish or reddish border have a tint of old bronze or purple). |
| Derenbergii | Herbaceous plant. The shoots spread along the ground, small (4–7 cm) rosettes of leaves are located at their tops. The length of the leaf is almost equal to the width (3 and 2.5 cm). The leaves are covered with a bluish coating, with a reddish tint visible along the edges and at the tip. The inflorescences are short (5–6 cm), spike-shaped. The flowers are yellow-orange or reddish. |
| Elegant | Herbaceous perennials. The leaves are a very light green shade, almost white. The edges are see-through. The tip is pointed, sometimes even prickly. A characteristic feature is a highly branched peduncle. The inflorescences are drooping, in the form of small one-sided racemes. The flowers are crimson, turning yellow. |
| Lau (Lauii) | Unlike other species, it does not grow too quickly and is quite demanding in care. One of the largest rosettes (18–20 cm in diameter). The leaves are diamond-shaped, almost white due to a thick layer of waxy coating. The orange-pink shiny flowers are also covered with it. |
| Pillow-shaped (pulvinata) | Low-growing (18–20 cm) subshrubs. The rosette is quite “loose”, there are few leaves in it. At the top of each leaf there is a short spine. The leaves and yellow-red flowers are pubescent. Inflorescences are spike-shaped. |
| Shaw (Shaviana) | Not too similar to echeveria at all. The leaves are almost round, soft to the touch, corrugated along the edges. They are compressed so that the rosette looks more like a head of cabbage rather than a flower. It produces several flower stalks at the same time, the pinkish flowers on which bloom alternately. |
| Bristly (setosa) | The bush-like plant forms many shoots. The rosettes are in the shape of an almost regular ball, each of them has more than a hundred dark green leaves with a grayish tint. The leaves are densely covered with white bristles - hence the name. The inflorescence is low - about 30 cm. The shape of the flowers resembles miniature tulips, and the color too. |
| Linguaefolia | A low (20–25 cm) subshrub forms two (no more and no less) fleshy trunks. The peduncle is drooping, sometimes branches from below. The flowers are light yellow, straw-colored. |
| Purple (atoropurpurea) | The rosette is large, but loose. It is located at the top of a stem about 15 cm high. The leaves are also large (up to 12 cm), brick-colored. |
| Purple (purpusorum) | Very original color and shape of the leaves. They are thick, wide, with a very sharp end, becoming noticeably thinner towards the edges. The rosette is located at the top of a short thick stem. The leaves are olive, with rich purple spots. |
| Echeveria Harmsii | The leaves are very small, in the shape of a rounded diamond. At each point, the leaf blade turns red. The flowers are small, reddish-yellow. |
| Desmetiana | The leaves have a pronounced bluish tint. The rosette is located at the top of a long stem. Blooms from mid-July. Inflorescences are formed on the side shoots. |
| Multi-stemmed (multicaulis) | Tall stem (up to 1 m). The leaves are small, slightly concave, dark green, with a red border. The rosette in the center is dense, becoming noticeably looser towards the edges. The flowers are yellowish inside, scarlet outside. |
| Gray (glauca) | Compact plant with small dense rosettes. The leaves are wedge-shaped at the base and become pointed towards the tip. They are covered with a thick layer of bluish coating. |
| Miranda | A very impressive plant with neat small rosettes that seem to be lying on the ground. They are very similar in shape to a lotus. Varieties with bluish, violet, pink, scarlet, yellowish, and silvery leaves have been bred through selection. |
| Black Prince | Selective hybrid. The leaves are green at the base and change color to dark purple at the tips. From a distance it can even be mistaken for black. The flowers are small and scarlet. |
| Pearl of Nuremberg (Perle von Nurnberg) | Selective hybrid. The stem is thick and straight. The leaves are pinkish-gray, the youngest ones are pastel pink. The flowers are muted scarlet. |
The youngest leaves of Echeveria Brilliant sometimes have notched edges. Echeveria White-haired blooms profusely throughout the spring. Echeveria Hump-flowered is an excellent basis for breeders' experiments. The reddish tint of the leaves of Echeveria Agave-shaped becomes richer as the plant matures. Because of its decorative effect, Echeveria Miranda is most often found in indoor floriculture Echeveria crimson cannot be confused with other species 
Echeveria Multistem intensively branches from the very base Echeveria Black Prince is one of the most beautiful breeding hybrids Echeveria Purple is actually not quite purple, but it sounds beautiful Because of the thick layer of bloom, the leaves of Echeveria Sizoy seem almost white Echeveria Pearl of Nuremberg was bred on the basis of Echeveria humpback-flowered The stem of the Garms echeveria practically does not branch. The waxy coating on the leaves of Echeveria Lau is thick, but easily erased. Over time, the stem of Echeveria Graceful falls under the weight of the leaves, the rosette quickly takes root. Unlike the others, Echeveria Derenberg has only 3-5 flowers in the inflorescence. In winter, Echeveria Shaw will most likely lose most of its leaves.
Echeveria is a relatively undemanding plant, but if you do not put in a minimum of effort and create more or less suitable conditions for it, the decorative value of the flower will sharply decrease.
| Factor | Optimal conditions |
| Location | A window facing south, southeast or southwest is suitable for the plant. In summer, it is useful to take the pot out onto an open balcony or veranda, taking care to protect it from sharp cold drafts and precipitation. You can add some zest to your garden design by temporarily planting echeveria in an alpine hill. |
| Lighting | Echeveria is extremely photophilous and tolerates direct sunlight well. In bright light it only becomes more decorative - a thickening layer of waxy coating gives the leaves a beautiful bluish tint, and a reddish border appears along the edge. The leaves may wrinkle slightly, but this is completely normal. Specimens that have just been acquired or have survived a dormant period gradually adapt to the bright sun. |
| Temperature | In nature, echeveria can survive temperatures up to 40ºС, but the optimal parameters are 23–28ºС. For the winter, it is best to put the flower in a room with a constant temperature of 7–10ºС. But, in principle, it is able to overwinter at standard 18–20ºС, which is maintained in the cold season in most apartments. The plant does not respond to small changes in temperature. |
| Air humidity | For echeveria, this parameter is unimportant. It does not need additional spraying even on the hottest days. On the contrary, in variegated varieties and bright hybrids, the color of the leaves may turn pale and fade from excess moisture. A standard humidity level of 40–60% is sufficient. |
Alpine slide with echeverias - a wonderful garden decoration To preserve their decorative properties, it is recommended to replant young echeverias every year after the end of the dormant period. For adults, one transplant every 2–3 years is enough; during breaks, you can simply remove the top 1–2 cm of soil and replace it with fresh one. Transplantation procedures can be avoided if they are grown hydroponically.
The plant is undemanding to soil. It should not be too nutritious, light and loose. Standard soil for succulents is quite suitable. However, experienced flower growers prepare the substrate themselves, mixing fertile turf soil, coarse river sand in equal proportions and adding a glass of sifted wood ash and fine red brick chips for every 3 liters of soil. Or another option - turf soil, powdered clay with sand and twice as much universal soil for decorative foliage indoor plants mixed in equal proportions. If you take soil from your own plot, find out the acidity level in advance. Acidic soil is not suitable for echeveria.
Since the root system of echeveria is shallow and branched, choose a bowl-like pot - low but wide. A mandatory requirement is a large drainage hole. At least a quarter of the volume should be occupied by drainage made of expanded clay, pebbles, ceramic shards, and brick chips. There is no need to significantly increase the volume of the pot compared to the previous one. A difference in diameter of 2–3 cm is quite enough. Ideally, the pot should be ceramic and light-colored so that it does not heat up so much in direct sunlight.
A deep pot of echeveria is not needed When replanting, pay special attention to touching the leaves as little as possible. The protective coating on them is very easy to accidentally wipe off.
You also need to carefully examine the roots and use a sharp, disinfected knife to cut off any dried, dead or rotted ones. Remove with reserve, capturing another 2-3 cm of the root, which appears healthy. Immediately sprinkle the sections with powdered activated carbon.
Before transplanting, the soil should be slightly moistened with a spray bottle and slowly absorbing fertilizer in the form of sticks should be inserted into the earthen ball. The transplanted echeveria is watered moderately. Watering will no longer be needed in the next week. It is being resumed gradually.
Echeverias grow well in florariums In its homeland, echeveria grows quietly under the scorching sun on rocky soils. Accordingly, it does not need either abundant watering or frequent fertilization. The main thing is not to flood or overfeed the flower.
In spring and summer, echeverias are watered on average once every 7-10 days, depending on the weather outside and the type of plant. The thicker the pubescence, the less it needs moisture. Be sure to take soft water that has stood for at least a day, ideally distilled or filtered.
The earthen lump should dry well from the previous time, but it is undesirable to bring the plant to such a state when the soil begins to move away from the edges of the pot. Another sign of lack of moisture is wrinkles on the leaves.
Starting in August, watering is gradually reduced, preparing the plant for the dormant period. The interval is approximately doubled.
Avoid getting water inside the rosette and on the leaves themselves. In the first case, rotting may begin, in the second, sunburn is very likely. It is best to use bottom watering, pouring water into the tray of the pot and draining the excess after 15–20 minutes.
In the phase of intensive growth of echeveria, one feeding per month is enough. To do this, prepare a solution of liquid mineral fertilizer for cacti and succulents. The proportion recommended by the manufacturer is halved. Fertilizer is added to water for irrigation.
Echeveria needs a fairly long dormant period, which lasts from mid-autumn to the end of winter. During this time, the flower is transferred to a cool, bright place with a temperature of 7–10ºС, watering is reduced to once a month and is not fertilized at all.
In principle, echeveria will overwinter in standard apartment conditions, but in this case, most likely, there will be no flowering. If you leave the flower in the same room, more frequent watering will be required. Drooping, wilted leaves serve as a signal that it’s time. Specimens that bloom in winter are also kept warm.
If the dormant period was organized according to all the rules, echeveria will bloom in spring or summer (with the exception of some species in which this occurs in winter).
Taking advantage of the fact that the flower belongs to the category of short-day plants, you can “deceive” nature and achieve flowering at the right time. For this echeveria to be 50–60 days older than one year, special conditions must be created: lighting for 12–13 hours daily and a temperature of 16–18ºС.
Echeveria, of course, is not picky and undemanding, but mistakes in care have a detrimental effect on its decorative properties.
| Description of the problem | Probable Cause |
| Dark spots on leaves. | Drops of water got on the plant or you yourself erased the wax coating, for example, during transplantation. |
| The leaves and stem at the base turn black and are easily separated from the plant. | The echeveria is too cold and/or you are watering it too much. If more suitable conditions are not created, rot that begins to develop will quickly destroy the plant. |
| Leaf deformation. | Exceeding the permissible concentration of fertilizers or using hard water for irrigation. Another option is a reaction to insecticides. If possible, use only those whose main active ingredient is pyrethrum. |
| The stems become elongated, the leaves turn pale, and the rosettes become less dense. | The plant lacks light and heat. Find him a more suitable place and gradually (over 10–12 days) accustom him to new conditions. |
| The leaves are getting smaller. | Echeveria is cramped in a pot. After the next dormant period, replant the plant. This is also a characteristic sign of insufficient or too infrequent watering. |
Echeverias react quite negatively to mistakes in care, losing their decorative properties. Echeveria, due to its fairly dense leaves, is quite resistant to damage by most pests. However, it often suffers from all types of rot, which succulents are susceptible to with too much watering.
| Disease or pest | Symptoms | Prevention and control measures |
| The pest is easily identified by the small dirty white pellets, similar to cotton wool or poplar fluff, which it leaves at the base of the stem and leaves. If measures are not taken, all the leaves will become covered with a continuous whitish coating, then they will turn yellow and fall off. |
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| Pests penetrate the roots of plants and suck out the juices. The problem can only be accurately identified during transplantation. Before this, one can only note that the plant stops growing, the leaves gradually turn pale, turn yellow and wrinkle. A waxy gray-white coating is visible along the edge of the pot. |
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| Root-knot nematodes | Nematodes are small worms that suck sap from roots. As a result, swellings appear on them, in which pests live and reproduce. If no action is taken, they will destroy the entire root system and the plant will die. | Since nematodes are very difficult to control, the focus is on prevention.
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| The roots become loose and soft to the touch and turn black. The same can be said about the base of the stem and leaves. The leaves become smaller, turn yellow and fall off, and the plant dies. | It is impossible to save a badly damaged echeveria; it can only be thrown away, after leaving the healthiest parts for further rooting.
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Root rot is very dangerous for all succulents Root-knot nematodes can destroy the entire root system in a matter of days Root mealybugs are difficult to identify without removing the plant from the pot 
Mealybugs are easy to identify, but difficult to get rid of.
Echeveria is easily propagated by almost all known methods.
The most reliable way to get a new echeveria is through a daughter rosette. But not in all species they often form at home. Therefore, in semi-shrub plants, you can cut off the side shoot or top (the optimal length is about 10 cm).
When separating offspring, try not to harm the plant. The rooting procedure looks like this:
Echeveria offspring take root quite easily From the shoot below, you need to separate a healthy leaf without the slightest trace of deformation, signs of damage by pests and other pathologies and dry it for 8–10 hours.
In mid-spring or early summer, it is placed cut down in coarse sand or a mixture of dry peat and cactus soil in equal proportions. When the cut site dries out, a growth bud appears, from which young echeveria is formed. 3–4 months for rooting is normal. It can be reduced by creating a constant temperature for the plant of 23–25ºС.
After about a month, when the mother leaf has completely dried out, the resulting plants can be transplanted into the ground. Care for them as you would for cuttings.
You can root a leaf obtained from any echeveria. Echeveria seeds at home appear only after artificial pollination. If successful, you need to wait until the fruit-box bursts at the seams.
At the end of winter or early spring, the collected planting material is laid out on the surface of the soil in shallow containers filled with sand and dry peat in a 1:1 ratio. To speed up the emergence of seedlings, some gardeners recommend wrapping the seeds in cloth and keeping them in moist peat for 2-3 days.
To create a greenhouse effect, the containers are covered with glass or plastic film. As the substrate dries, it is moistened, and the plantings are ventilated daily. The optimal temperature is 20–23ºС. Under these conditions, seedlings will appear in 12–18 days.
After the formation of three true leaves, the seedlings are planted in separate containers filled with a mixture of leaf soil or universal soil for indoor plants and sand in a 2:1 ratio.
Echeveria seedlings need to be transplanted after 3–4 months When the new rosettes reach a diameter of 3–4 cm, they are transplanted into small pots. In the future, they are cared for in the same way as for adult echeverias.
Echeveria is a genus of perennial herbaceous plants belonging to the Crassulaceae family. It has succulent, succulent leaves that are more or less tightly collected in a rosette. It can be basal or at the top of the stem of different lengths. Sometimes it looks like a low-growing shrub.
Echeveria is popularly called “stone flower” or “stone rose”.
The genus Echeveria includes a large number of species and varieties. All of them are united by fleshy leaves that accumulate moisture. The species differ in the size, shape and color of the leaf blade, the presence or absence of a stem, and the color of the flowers.
This species is widespread in Mexico. It has a stem, which with age can reach a length of up to 15 cm. Leaves, 0.5 cm thick, are located at the top of the stem. They are light green, oval in shape with a pointed end, the edges of which are painted red-brown. Small pink flowers bloom on a short peduncle and form into long inflorescences. 
The leaves of the Graceful Echeveria grow on a stem, which over time becomes lodging and takes root. They are up to 6 cm long and up to 5 cm wide. The end is pointed. The plant is very similar to an artificial rose, pale green, almost white, with a silvery tint. It blooms in late spring with small pink-yellow corollas, collected in long, up to 20 cm, drooping racemes on a branched peduncle. 
A very spectacular variety of stone rose. The oblong leaves with a sharp end are neatly collected near the surface of the earth.
Varieties of the painted Miranda have very varied colors. They can be blue, red, pink, yellow. They come in green and silver-white. Outwardly, Miranda is very reminiscent of a lotus flower. 
The leaves grow slightly upward. They are oval in shape with pointed tips. The edges of the ends are painted brown. 
The rosette is rare, up to 20 cm in diameter, collected on the top of a 15-cm thick stem. The leaf blades are oblong, pointed, up to 12 cm long and about 5 cm wide. They have a brownish-red tint. 
This is a hybrid variety of Echeveria. It got its name from the color of small, elongated leaves with a sharp end, the color of which is green from the base, turning into a dark burgundy, almost black hue.
The plant is 15 cm in diameter. Small red inflorescences - spikelets - grow on a long thick peduncle at the end of summer. 
The trunk of this variety is more than 15 cm long. At its top there are leaves that have an elongated shape. They are thick, slightly pointed, densely covered with small short white hairs. The ends have a brown edging. Many red flowers bloom in spring on a long stalk. 
The stem is about 10 cm. The diameter of Echeveria is 15 cm. The leaves are thick, green, pubescent with white hairs, slightly concave. The edges of the sharp ends are painted red. Red-yellow spikelets bloom in April on an erect peduncle. 
The trunk grows up to 8 cm. Green, concave leaves grow on its top. They have a pointed shape and are covered with light hairs. Plant diameter 15 cm.
This type of Echeveria is distinguished by its original leaf color; they are wide, thick, with thin edges, very pointed. Located at the top of a low, thick stem. The color is olive green, very pockmarked due to dark purple spots. 
This is one of the hybrid varieties of humpback-flowered Echeveria. On an erect, thick stem, a rosette of large, wide, pointed pink-gray leaves is formed. The corollas are light red. 
Diamond-shaped small leaves are located at the top of a weakly branched stem. They are painted green, the edges of the points are red. Small petals are yellow-red.
The bluish leaves are closely spaced at the top of the long stem. From mid-summer it begins to bloom with yellow-orange inflorescences that appear on the lateral shoots. Very hardy species: can withstand low light and excess moisture for a long time. 
Numerous small leaf blades, light green with a silvery coating, are densely packed on the top of a long stem. They are concave, wide, rounded, with a very sharp tip, which is surrounded by a red border.
It blooms with red and yellow bells, forming short inflorescences, on a thick peduncle for several weeks in conditions close to natural. 
This type of Echeveria is almost white in color, covered with a waxy coating that is easily erased. The leaves have the shape of an irregular diamond and are collected in a large rosette. The shiny pink flowers, quite large for an Echeveria, form large clusters on a long peduncle. Lau requires careful handling. You can learn about proper care for all types of Echeveria in. 
Round, bluish-colored leaves grow on a short, 5-centimeter stem. They are almost flat with wavy white edges. It blooms from July with a multitude of pink flowers, which are collected in drooping racemes, on several peduncles. In winter, during the dormant period, most of the leaves fall off. With the beginning of spring, new ones begin to grow. Outwardly, Sho resembles a head of ornamental cabbage. 
On a stem up to 10 cm long, a rosette grows with a diameter of 15 cm, consisting of many small oblong green leaves, which are very densely covered with white cilia. It blooms with red-yellow one-sided clusters of flowers, similar to small tulips, on several peduncles. 
The stem is highly branched, grows up to 1 m in length. The leaf blades are small, slightly concave, dark green in color, red at the edges, loosely gathered. The “bells” are small, the inner surface is yellow, the outside is red. 
The stem is up to 50 cm long. The leaves are flat, oval, rounded. Green color; sometimes painted with red stripes along the edges and on the outer surface. The petals of the small flowers are red at the base and turn yellow towards the top. 
Hybrid variety of Echeveria. The leaves are wide, obovate. The rosette is large and loose. 
Wide, thick leaves are densely located on a short, thick stem. The plant is low and wide. Orange or red flowers are located on one side of the shoot. Hence another name for Gray Echeveria - One-sided.
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