Stairs.  Entry group.  Materials.  Doors.  Locks.  Design

Stairs. Entry group. Materials. Doors. Locks. Design

» DIY metal rose: detailed master class. Templates for making roses from iron. DIY metal rose Sketches for a metal rose

DIY metal rose: detailed master class. Templates for making roses from iron. DIY metal rose Sketches for a metal rose

Good afternoon, in this letter I will try to tell you the whole process of making a rose from tin, which can be an excellent gift for loved ones.

To create a rose from tin you will need a minimum of tools:

Pliers

Metal scissors

Ruler

Pencil

Compass if possible

Tin roses step by step:

So, we will need metal mugs - you can use roofing iron or simple tin cans. We cut out circles with different diameters, approximately from 150 to 130 mm - the difference is 5 mm each, i.e. 150-145-140-135-130... You will need 5 of them - this is a blank for the flower itself.

Then cut out two strips approximately 2.5 cm wide. One should be 110 mm long, and the other 125 mm - this is for the inner leaves of the flower.

Then we need a star - fashionably four-pointed. We cut it out from a circle with a diameter of 110 mm - this will be the lower part of the flower.

On a separate sheet of metal we draw and then cut out the leaves themselves - 1 single and one triple is enough... I think this is better... then we cut notches along the edges of the leaves - a real appearance of a real leaf appears... and you can knock out the veins in the middle of the leaf with a simple screwdriver .

Then we bend the stem of the sheet inward - with pliers... and we get a finished sheet... Here - we need another piece of wire - maybe 6 in diameter - I make these... and a piece of copper tube can be used to cut an internal thread on one side under the M6 ​​screw - this is to screw the entire assembled rose... bud... and on the other side we simply solder it into the wire.

And so we cut out four-leaf flowers from metal circles and press each leaf as shown in the photo with pliers... squeeze it into a vase and turn away the edges a little - also with pliers... then when everything is ready, insert all the baskets one into the other and edit the folds of the leaves by eye ... then we drill a hole in the middle for a screw and twist it to the prepared tube - we solder the tube to the wire and screw the leaves with a metal strip prepared earlier ... - the edges can be soldered ... that's all ...

From these tin roses you can make anything that comes to mind - a hanger, a lamp, used to decorate a gate, etc.

We present to your attention one of the largest organizations in St. Petersburg for the production of metal structures, ferrous and stainless steel products, painting of metal products and artistic forging (forging of visors).

Good luck to you and all the best!!!

Attention! Any use (copying) of the article is permitted only with the written permission of the author of the material and the site administration.

A gift made with your own hands is always more memorable and arouses admiration. You invest your time, effort and soul into it. Flowers are beautiful, but short-lived. An iron one, created by hand, is a wonderful gift that will delight for many years and make a lasting impression on the recipient.

Materials and tools for creating an iron rose

  • welding machine (semiautomatic or inverter; for an inverter, use electrodes 2 mm thick at a current value of 50-70 A)
  • angle grinder or grinder (with cutting and grinding discs; it is better to use a cutting disc 1 mm thick, and a flap type grinding disc)
  • drill with metal drills with a diameter of 0.5 - 1 cm
  • iron rod with a diameter of 8-12 mm (for the flower stem)
  • sheet iron 0.5 mm thick; (you can use metal from the hoods or wings of a car, its thickness according to GOST is 0.5 - 0.8 mm)
  • gas burner, or any other heat source
  • 300 g of motor oil (preferably not used)
  • round pliers
  • felt-tip pen

Cut 4 squares with a side of 10 cm from an iron sheet. If you want your rose to be more magnificent, prepare 5 squares.

Draw the shape of future petals on the squares, and on one of them - something like a “wind rose”. This will be a blank for the sepals, so don’t try to achieve perfect symmetry - nature makes each of its creations individual.

Take an iron rod and, if necessary, shorten it to the required length - this is the stem of the future rose (40-50 cm).

Now you need to make holes for the stem in the cut out petal blanks. There are 2 methods - drilling and welding.

Using a drill, drill a hole strictly in the center; the diameter of the hole should correspond to the diameter of the rod. If the diameters do not match, suppose you chose a rod with a diameter of 12 mm, and the thickest drill you have is 8 mm, then drill 3 holes side by side so that you get one hole of the desired size. Bend the inner edges with round nose pliers or thin pliers. The rod must fit tightly into the holes, otherwise it will be difficult to weld.

Use a 3 mm thick electrode and set the current value to about 100 A. Bring the electrode to the center of the blade and strike the arc. Press the electrode into the metal, piercing it all the way through. Since we are using thin sheet iron, it will burn through easily. But be careful, the hole should not be too large.

Tip: You don't have to make perfectly round holes. They need to be made such that the rod is in contact with them by at least 50% of its diameter. This is a necessary condition for proper welding and strength of the entire structure. While making holes, periodically apply a rod to them, this will allow you to control the process.

Step back 2 cm from the end of the rod. Now put the blanks with petals on it, starting with the sepals. Arrange each layer of petals so that the petals are criss-crossed. Secure each layer by welding. Be careful - thin metal burns quickly, so melt more rods than petals.

Bend the leaves of the bottom layer down.

Now the most interesting part of the work is the formation of the petals. Heat the still flat petals with a gas burner. It is not necessary to get it red hot, just a little heat is enough. Under the influence of temperature, the metal becomes ductile, easier to form, and the likelihood of unwanted deformations is reduced.

Using thin pliers or pliers, bend the 2 central petals so that they are wrapped in each other. Fold the remaining petals around them.

Layer by layer, bend all the petals, bending the tips in the opposite direction.

Now you need to make the rose leaves. Draw their outlines on a metal sheet. They may not be the same either.

Cut out the leaves with a grinder.

Make notches on both sides of the leaves, as shown in the photo.

Carefully! Hold the leaves only with pliers, never with your hands!!!

Change your grip as you make cuts. Hold the sheet by one edge and make notches on the other, then vice versa.

Bend the leaves with your hands and attach them to the rose stem using weld points. Be careful not to burn them.

The rose is ready. But untreated metal will rust over time, and corrosion processes must be prevented. There are many options - spraying, varnishing, you can even paint a rose in the colors of a living flower.

I preferred to do the bluing. To do this, you need to heat the rose, cover it with motor oil and heat it again so that the excess oil burns off. Work should be carried out only in a ventilated area, or better yet, in the open air, since the oil will smoke when heated.

Today we will tell you how to make a rose from metal with your own hands.

Hello readers!

In this article I want to tell you how you can make beautiful roses from metal without any special skills in working with metal! (Video of the process at the end of the article)
For motivation, at the end of the article I will show you my first rose and the one I made just recently. Along the way, I will talk about my observations and those things that I did not immediately understand, but they significantly improved the appearance of the flowers.
And also at the end I will place a block with frequently asked questions that you might have while reading.

And so, let's go!

Materials required for making roses from metal:

  • I make my roses from cold-rolled black metal sheets 0.5 mm thick;
  • For stems I use smooth A1 reinforcement and 6 mm binding wire. diameter for forging stems with spikes and texture. For simpler options, 5 mm binding wire is quite suitable.

Equipment and tools necessary for making roses from metal:

  • welding machine (in fact, if you are smart, you can do without a welding machine, but that will be another story.);
  • Bulgarian;
  • metal scissors;
  • needle nose pliers;
  • pliers;
  • felt-tip pen / scriber.

You, as a DIY master, can completely do without one or the other: an angle grinder can replace scissors, pliers can replace thin-nosed pliers. The only difference will be in the labor intensity of some processes.

And since we have discussed the instrument and I touched on the topic of improvisation, I will add that in fact this article is not a panacea, not strict instructions. This is a motivation letter describing technological features! The most important thing when working with a metal rose flower is not to try to replicate me or yourself. Be more relaxed. Let your movements in your work be even slightly careless, the petals crooked, and the bends of different widths. It is these movements that will breathe life into your flower!

My rosebuds consist of the following number of plates with petals:

  • outer first leaf - 5 rose petals, circle diameter about 12 cm;
  • second leaf - 4 rose petals, slightly smaller in diameter, about 11 -11.5 cm;
  • third leaf - 4 rose petals, diameter 11-11.5 cm;
  • fourth leaf - 3 rose petals, diameter 10.5 cm;
  • fifth leaf - 4 rose petals, narrow like a propeller and about 9-10 cm in diameter;
  • five-leaf star - it will serve as a leaf on the outside. Diameter 8-9 cm.

Metal rose leaves look like this:

  • For one flower I prepare 2-4 branches of leaves, 2-4 leaves on each. Most often I use 2 branches of 3 leaves. Some average number so that the flower is not empty and does not seem like a whole bush. Again, decide for yourself, try it on, try it.

Forged metal rose stem:

  • On average, I take the stem length to be about 50 cm. This makes the flower quite large and beautiful in the end with the size of the bud that I wrote above.

I also made flowers of 30 cm and 60 cm. This is the beauty of working with metal. We have a lot of options for you.

Let's start making a rose from metal.

  • First of all, I usually mark out squares for future rosebud petals. I make 3 squares 12x12 cm and 3 squares 10x10 cm. To make it easier to drill a pack of similar shapes later.
  • After cutting out these squares, I stack them and mark the center. After which I drill all the workpieces at once to 6-7 mm. Ok, drilled. Since I make quite a lot of flowers, I have ready-made templates so that I don’t have to mark the sides of the petals every time; this is especially tedious when working with cinquefoil.
  • I trace the outline and start cutting. I don’t particularly try to get into the line; in the finishing process, all the curvature of the rose petals will turn into their beauty.
    From personal experience I can say that it is most convenient to first cut out a circle along the outlined outline, then you should cut out one side of the rose petals from the outside to the center. Then turn the workpiece over and cut the remaining sides in the same position. You will immediately understand what I mean when you try to cut the blank along the contour without turning the sheet over. At first it will be inconvenient, because there is no marked outline on the back side. But your hand will get used to it. Mine is used to it.
  • Well, the rose petals are cut out. Now let's take on the leaves. I always draw them by hand, since symmetry is not needed there, and I also cut them along the contour with scissors.
    I will also note here that do not be afraid to bend the metal in your hands when you follow the cut contour with scissors; later we will straighten everything out before further work.

I like to get everything ready first and then start assembling and welding as the final step. Therefore, I also cut the stem to the required length, heat it in different ways: welding, simply. I've tried it all. Everything is working. And I give texture to the rose stem. I crush him mercilessly! After this processing, the rose stem turns out to be of any shape with an interesting pattern. If you continue to bother, you can weld spikes by simply fusing small bumps and processing them with a grinder.
I use petal circles for this job. I clamp the grinder in a vice and rotate the stem with my hands. In this way it is possible to sharpen the spikes to a sharp state.

To add texture to the metal rosebud, I use a makeshift anvil, which I scored with the sharp end of a hammer. So I just put the petal on the anvil and tap the back side with a rounded hammer. The texture is perfectly transferred from the anvil to the petals.

I make a notch on the leaves with a chisel and use thin-nose pliers to twist the rose stems into a tube. Many blacksmiths make welded leaves in their practice. The version that we make with you turns out to be more sophisticated and prettier, more lively.

Time to assemble the finished metal rose!

I clamp the rose stem in a vice so that the tip barely rises. And, following the sequence, I assemble the bud, welding each layer through a drilled hole to the stem and the previous layer of petals:

  • first I lay out the star-leaf;
  • then five-leafed;
  • large quatrefoil;
  • large quatrefoil;
  • trefoil;
  • propeller leaf.

Do you feel like you've almost made a flower? Yes it is! All you have to do is play with the shape of the bud and everything will be finished.

One by one, fold the first leaf on top and use thin-nose pliers to bend the edges. Then we bend the trefoil and also bend the edges with thin-nosed pliers. And so on... Don't get hung up on one form. Try it, even if you like the rose flower in the form that is in front of you now. Believe me, there are a lot of interesting shapes. They suit different colors and occasions differently.

Metal rose bud on a stem. All that remains is to add the leaves. Add to taste; it’s impossible to overdo it or underdo it. Are you an artist. You know better =)

Often I am asked to paint flowers in classic colors: red bud and green stem. We should not forget that in an attempt to catch up with nature, we can only show the shortcomings of a flower in front of the uniqueness of a living one. It's up to you, but now I've finally given up on painting. I try to highlight the graceful appearance of the metal by displaying it. Sometimes I brass the protruding parts. It turns out to be a very beautiful expensive vintage flower. And if it is practically impossible to give a living flower any shape, then look what you can do with our metal roses, which we made with our own hands!
(only a small part of my options for performing work)

Answers to questions asked:

  1. Why don't I take 2 or 3 mm. ?
    Many blacksmiths always take on thick metal, belittling the dignity of thin metal. Any execution option has a place to be. But thin metal is both lighter and easier to work with, and therefore, at a minimum, it is easier to learn from it.
  2. Why tie wire (heat treated)?
    It can be given texture without heating, since it is much softer than simple steel reinforcement.
  3. Why is it important to make the outer leaf of a rose with 5 petals?
    The more outer petals on a leaf, the rounder the rose bud will be. With four petals, the bud turns out to be square. More than 5 - it will no longer look like a rose.
  4. How to cover a metal rose with brass with your own hands?
    There is a little trick for which we need a brass drill brush.
    We heat the metal a little and start working on it with a brush. Brass transfers very well to metal and coats it with a quality brass layer. The more you heat the metal before brushing, the yellower the brass will be. Don't overdo it, or you'll burn it.

All photos and video materials from this article were taken by me, as well as the flowers in them.

Everyone knows that metal is a very rough tool, from which, as many people think, it will be very, very difficult to create something elegant and thin! But, in fact, if you have the desire and the right tools, you can even create an elegant flower, such as a rose, from ordinary metal! The bud of this flower will turn out to be very beautiful, textured and lush, and will closely resemble its natural prototype. The created metal flower will even contain metal spikes, which will not be difficult to create. You just need to know some specific subtleties and tricks for working with steel.

Necessary tools and materials to create a metal rose:

— thin steel sheets;

— manual coffee grinder;

— steel rod, 0.6 millimeters and 38 centimeters long;

- hammer;

- pliers;

- a hammer with a very well sharpened edge;

- acetylene burner;

— tig for manual arc welding.

First stage.

Before you start creating a metal rose, you need to create a template of all its constituent elements from paper.

— The very first layer of the rose will be a small bud with three petals. Its diameter should be 7 centimeters.

— The second layer will consist of five petals, the diameter of which should be 9.6 centimeters.

— The third layer of petals will consist of five units with a total diameter of 12 centimeters.

— The fourth and fifth layers will consist of six petals with a circle diameter of 14.4 centimeters.

— The final layer of petals will be five identical petals with a diameter of 9.6 centimeters.

These blanks must be cut out of thick paper.

Second phase.

Then you need to attach all the prepared templates to a metal sheet and transfer them using chalk or soap. In order to use the material most economically, the templates must be applied close to each other.

Third stage.

The next step is to cut out each tier of rose flowers. The trimmings remaining after cutting at this stage of work do not need to be thrown away yet. Such metal scraps will be needed to create flower leaves. Then in the center of each of the resulting blanks you will need to create holes with a diameter of 0.6 centimeters. These holes are necessary in order to string the workpieces onto the stem.


Fourth stage.

After plasma cutting is complete, there may be some scale left on the edges of the workpiece that will need to be removed. For this purpose, the components of the flower will need to be passed through a small section of a hand-held coffee grinder.

Fifth stage.

The next step is the process of forming the rose flower. The first two tiers will simply need to be folded, without giving them a particularly realistic texture. This will simply be extra work, since the petals of the bud will be closed and not visible. You need to string the first tier of petals onto a metal rod. Then it will need to be moved to the edge. After this, you will need to heat the petals to the red color of the metal and bend them with pliers and a hammer, and form a dense center of the bud. In order to heat a steel workpiece, you can use an oxygen heating pad clamped in a vice. But in this situation you will need a lot of time. If you want to get the job done quickly, then it is best to use a foundry furnace.

In exactly the same way, you will need to attach a second layer of petals to the stem, which also form a dense central bud.

Sixth stage.

All subsequent layers of petals must continue to be strung in exactly the same way, but their ends must be made more textured. Their wavy curves should be shaped like a natural rose flower.



Seventh stage.

But the layer with rose sepals will need to be folded downwards.

Eighth stage.

Using the method described above, you will need to completely assemble the rose flower, after which you will need to make a weld along the stem, which can strengthen this elegant metal rose.

Ninth stage.

From the remaining metal scraps, you will need to cut the rose leaves and give them the required shape, after which they will need to be welded to the metal stem.

Tenth stage.

The next step is to create thorns on the stem. For this purpose, you will need to momentarily turn off the gas on the welding machine. Without the shielding gas, the metal itself will begin to bulge outward. These penetrations must be made along the entire metal stem. The advantage of these metal spikes is that they will not be sharp. In some places it is necessary to heat up the metal rod itself in order to give it the bends typical of a natural rose flower.

That's it, the metal rose is completely ready!

From rough metal, if you wish and have the right materials, you can make an elegant flower, for example, a rose like this. Its bud turns out lush, textured and closely resembles its natural prototype. This flower even has metal spikes, which are very easy to make if you know some tricks of working with steel.

Materials

To create a metal rose with your own hands, you will need:

  • thin steel sheets;
  • steel rod, 0.6 mm, length 38 cm;
  • tig for manual arc welding;
  • hammer;
  • pliers;
  • acetylene torch;
  • a hammer with a well-sharpened edge;
  • manual coffee grinder.

Step 1. Before creating a rose, you need to make a template of all its constituent parts from paper.

  • The very first layer of a rose is a small bud with three petals, 7 cm in diameter.
  • The second layer consists of five petals, the diameter of which is 9.6 cm.
  • The third layer of petals consists of five units with a total diameter of 12 cm.
  • The fourth and fifth layers consist of six petals with a circle diameter of 14.4 cm.
  • The final layer of petals is five identical petals with a diameter of 9.6 cm.

Cut all these blanks out of thick paper.

Step 2. The prepared templates should be attached to a sheet of metal and transferred using soap or chalk. To use material as economically as possible, apply the templates close to each other.

Step 3. Cut out each tier of rose flowers. Don’t throw away any remaining scraps you have at this stage. They will be needed for the formation of leaves. In the center of each of the resulting blanks, make holes with a diameter of 0.6 cm. They are necessary to string the blanks onto the stem.

Step 4. After plasma cutting, scale may remain on the edges of the workpieces; it must be removed. To do this, pass the components of the flower through a small section of a hand-held coffee grinder.

Step 5. Now you can start forming the flower. You will just need to bend the first two tiers without giving them a particularly realistic texture. This will be extra work, since the petals of the bud will be closed and not visible. String the first tier of petals onto the rod. Slide it to the edge. Heat the petals to a red metallic color and bend them with a hammer and pliers to form a tight center of the bud. In order to heat a steel workpiece, you can use an oxygen torch clamped in a vice. In this case, you will need a lot of time. If you want to do the work faster, use a foundry furnace.

Similarly, attach a second layer of petals to the stem, which also form a dense central bud.

Step 6. Continue to string all other layers of petals in the same way, but make their ends more textured. Their wavy curves should be shaped like a real rose flower.

Step 7. Fold the layer with rose sepals downwards.

Step 8. Having thus collected the flower, make a weld along the stem, which will strengthen this elegant metal sculpture.

Step 9. Cut rose leaves from the remaining scraps, shape them into the desired shape and weld them to the stem.

Step 10. You need to make thorns on the stem. To do this, you need to turn off the gas on the welding machine for a moment. Without shielding gas, the metal will begin to bulge outward on its own. Similar passes need to be made throughout the entire stem. The advantage of these metal spikes is that they are not sharp. In some places it will be necessary to heat up the rod itself in order to give it the bends characteristic of a living flower.

The metal rose is ready!