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» Homemade budget IR flashlights. DIY IR illumination for CCTV camera DIY IR flashlight for hunting

Homemade budget IR flashlights. DIY IR illumination for CCTV camera DIY IR flashlight for hunting

Infrared flashlights are necessary in many situations; they are used in unlit rooms, in security activities, when hunting, as well as in other equally important areas of civilian use. One of the most popular and sought-after brands of IR flashlights is Pulsar. You can find a large assortment of infrared flashlights for hunting on the page https://opticstore.com.ua/catalog/infrakrasnye-fonari.

What types of infrared flashlights are there and why are they needed?

Infrared lighting devices are necessary in many areas and sectors of our life. Hunters have long appreciated their effectiveness and irreplaceability, because infrared light is invisible to people and many animals. With such a flashlight it is very convenient to move around the area without scaring animals or attracting attention to yourself. An IR flashlight has many advantages over a regular flashlight; using special devices (for example, night vision goggles), you can see well in the dark, such a lighting device allows you to better track the movement of an animal.
Infrared flashlights come in two main types:

  • laser;
  • LED

The operating principle of the former is based on coherent radiation; it can only be seen with the help of special glasses. Such devices are necessary if you need to carefully hide the location of a person or the direction of a target. LED lights are easier to use; they emit light that is captured by a special receiver. It is the latter option that is in great demand, their cost is affordable, operation is simple and does not require special skills.

Where can I buy?

If you are looking for high-quality infrared flashlights, then you should pay attention to the range of products in the online store https://opticstore.com.ua. Here you can find laser and LED flashlights of excellent quality and at an affordable price. When choosing a product, proceed from your needs. First of all, you need to pay attention to the technical characteristics - power and radiation propagation angle. The smaller the angle, the more directional and intense the light will be. For night hunting, an important parameter is the secrecy of lighting from prying eyes. This parameter is characterized by the unmasking distance (the distance from the device to the object). The shorter the distance, the better.

In IM you can choose for yourself both professional and amateur models of IR flashlights, everything will depend only on desire and need.

Proposed IR illumination can be used with a household camera that has a night mode (this is what it was designed for) to ensure the operation of CCTV cameras or night vision devices (NVD) in low light conditions.

The circuit is based on a pulse generator assembled on the widely used integrated timer NE555 (Fig. 1). The generator frequency should be in the range from 11 to 15 kHz. With the ratings of the frequency-setting elements indicated in the diagram (R1, R2, C1), it is slightly more than 13300 Hz. From the output of the generator, through resistor R3, pulses are supplied to the input of the composite transistor VT1-VT2, the load of which is 28 parallel-connected TSAL5100 IR LEDs, combined into an emitter.

Thanks to the use of a generator, LEDs in IR illumination operate in pulse mode, which allows for a 2-fold increase in output power compared to DC power. The IR illumination power is 6.5 W, the current consumption is 1.5 A at a supply voltage of 6.3 V.

Transistors VT1 and VT2 should be installed on aluminum radiators with dimensions of 50x40x2 mm. Resistors R4 and R5 must have a permissible power of at least 15 W (it is better to install 20 W to increase reliability and reduce heating).

The emitter is made from any old LED flashlight with 28 LEDs. The only thing that matters here is the reflector itself with the front glass. To make an IR emitter, we unsolder all the old LEDs and solder TSAL5100 in their place. After this, we install the front glass and reflector in place. The front glass must be installed. It protects the emitter from moisture and acts as a diffuser. Since LEDs have a small radiation angle, in the absence of glass, dark and light spots are clearly distinguishable in the image.

merchants 25-09-2015 19:53

Good day everyone.
Playful hands and an inquisitive mind give me no rest. A free evening and the desire to have an IR flashlight for night shooting prompted me to do some experiments, the results of which I present for your information.
So, I had a couple of inexpensive Chinese lanterns lying around, which were rarely used for their intended purpose, and it would be a pity to throw them away, as they say.
https://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/4010/178235680.2/0_166ef6_1bfcc4b1_L.jpg

https://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/5602/178235680.2/0_166ef7_87c2178_L.jpg

In the vastness of our city radio market, I previously purchased several IR diodes, manufacturer Noname China, power 750 mW (according to the seller), wavelength 850 (white body) and 940 (black body).
https://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/4010/178235680.2/0_166ef8_b702658c_L.jpg

In addition, “for testing”, another flashlight was purchased, in the photo in a black case, marked “Bright beam 3W”, but it was not possible to convert it. The LED substrate did not fit into its body.
So the test subjects are on the operating table and for the autopsy.
We unscrew the first lamp, remove the LED driver, remove the LED itself with the “star” substrate, and unsolder the power wires.

https://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/5312/178235680.2/0_166ef9_4b57f0a5_L.jpg
https://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/32/178235680.2/0_166efa_a559a51d_L.jpg
https://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/6616/178235680.2/0_166efb_5dd4f4fb_L.jpg
https://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/6500/178235680.2/0_166efd_f121570c_L.jpg

In its place, we similarly assemble an 850 LED onto a new sprocket. We unsolder the legs and place the LED itself on thermal paste to the substrate. We twist everything in the reverse order. No special tools required.

https://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/5630/178235680.2/0_166efe_3da6f061_L.jpg

We turn it on, we see that the LED is glowing with a red dot, we are glad that everything is working, we put it off until dark.
We make the second flashlight in the same way, only with a 940 LED. We assemble it, turn it on, nothing works. Well, okay. Since flashlights are needed for NVGs of generation 1 and 1+, they do not need the 940 backlight and were purchased purely to “try it out.” We unsolder the 940 LED, solder in 850 in its place, and make sure that everything works. I’m not ready to answer what the reason is with the 940, maybe it works too, but there’s nothing to check.
It’s almost night, or rather deep twilight, let’s go try some crafts. I looked through 1PN63 (Quaker) photos on a smartphone. The flashlight itself is visible to the eye as a dim red dot. From 10 meters it’s not noticeable at all.
The first lamp gives a wide close fill.
https://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/9837/178235680.2/0_166f08_83abd534_L.jpg
https://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/17848/178235680.2/0_166f07_4895b6ce_L.jpg

The second is a narrow directional beam that will work as a grenade launcher.
https://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/4524/178235680.2/0_166f05_dbdb07f0_L.jpg
https://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/15483/178235680.2/0_166f06_6efe696d_L.jpg

The result is satisfactory.
Budget - lantern 200 rubles each (the price is arbitrary, they have been lying around for a long time). LED - 50r/piece for 850, 100r/piece for 940. Star backing - 20r/piece.
Small things - solder, soldering irons, thermal paste - were available.
The time spent is priceless.






merchants 25-09-2015 19:54

I just don’t understand how to insert pictures into the text. Do you need some kind of TEG?

VAZ_2105 25-09-2015 21:08



Do you need some kind of TEG?

Yeah. The address of your image should be enclosed in the following construct: ADDRESS

Or use third-party image storage services, for example http://savepic.ru/

Then it will turn out like this:

wladislaw4 29-09-2015 22:13

quote: Originally posted by commers:

I’m not ready to answer what the reason is with the 940, maybe it works too, but there’s nothing to check.


Easy to check with a mobile phone camera. What voltage were you feeding and what currents?

Emchees 25-12-2015 19:24

Also an interesting topic. I had the same thoughts myself. How long will the batteries last? Compared to an unconverted one?

call sign petrel 28-12-2015 21:06

I'll follow the topic

Emchees 04-01-2016 20:57

I bought an IR SOT 120 MW 850 Nm for my 58th. The sight is illuminated. I haven’t gone hunting yet. But I’ll definitely make a flashlight, I haven’t found a suitable donor yet.

call sign petrel 06-01-2016 17:32

Be sure to write back later, it’s interesting

Emchees 12-01-2016 20:16

quote: Originally written call sign petrel:
Be sure to write back later, it’s interesting
I apologize to the TS, since I’m also talking about the backlight. Yesterday I tried my flashlight from SOT with 1pn58. It shines for 70-100 meters. You can reduce the brightness by putting on a lid from a hospital container for shoe covers, I have a red one. XD Everything is visible in the snow and so, without illumination. The barrel is down - the sight lights up, so I stopped the experiments before the black trail. I have no idea about the animals yet, I haven’t seen a beaver.

Emchees 12-01-2016 20:19

A flashlight like the one I saw on sale today at Udelnaya, the toad strangled me for 400 hazel grouse...

dr.Zoldberg 14-01-2016 14:39

I recently bought this green pointer. Just for fun. I tore off all the fucking stuff from the diode and here it is - I got what I wanted. Powerful long-range IR laser flashlight for 0th generation devices. At 500 meters it shines easily. The photo shows a calimator, which gives an even round spot; by adjusting it, the range and diameter of the spot can be changed. Without a calico it shines for 200 meters, but illuminates a huge area, a spot in the shape of a circle truncated at the top and bottom. I liked this shape even more than the circle.
The pointer can be easily disassembled, in 1 minute, and put back together. Includes a bunch of junk and a charger with a battery.

Good luck to all!

Boris19684 16-01-2016 22:05

Originally posted by commercials:
[B]
Playful hands and an inquisitive mind give me no rest.


Hello everyone!
Oh, this thing is contagious... no rest for your hands!
I made myself the same IR flashlight for the PN2M I just bought.
So:
I bought different things there... I took 850 diodes for 3 watts and 1.5 watts.
I chose a small flashlight with focusing.

Boris19684 16-01-2016 22:09





Boris19684 16-01-2016 22:09

As you can see, I didn’t find the small star, so I took an extra bite from the big one.
We disassemble the flashlight and drill everything out carefully, because... If the flashlight has one battery, then there is a driver inside that increases the voltage to 5 volts.
And our diodes are 1.8-2.2 volts 700mA 850Nm 3 watts

Boris19684 16-01-2016 22:11

carefully, as the author of the topic describes, we assemble it all using solder, thermal paste, eyes and hands growing from the right place and get a burning flashlight

Boris19684 16-01-2016 22:15

we go into a dark room and, with the help of an assistant (daughter), try:
photo ascending -
without backlight;
standard backlight;
MY FLASHLIGHT;
both IR illumination.

P.S. Moving the eyepiece of the flashlight, I think the beam will be good.
The cost of a flashlight is 100 rubles, a diode is 120 rubles, a star is 20 rubles, the time, like the author’s, is PRICELESS! Happy hunting to everyone in the dark

dr.Zoldberg 17-01-2016 12:30

I tested mine in combat conditions at night in the forest. I can definitely say that the spot must be focused, otherwise there will be flare from even one blade of grass sticking out from under the snow. So, take flashlights with focus adjustment. Or like my pointer, because... her rework lasts only 1 minute of my precious time. It's a shame you can't adjust the power.

Boris19684 17-01-2016 13:18



take flashlights with focus adjustment


Thank you! I took this one, with a lens. Now I’ll take a second thicker one (for a finger type), I’ll probably look for a 5-watt diode. Which one do you have? Or is 3-watt enough?

dr.Zoldberg 17-01-2016 16:35


Just for fun, try experimenting with laser illumination.

Gratius 17-01-2016 20:51

Just don't just for fun"experiment with laser illumination."

quote: Originally posted by dr.Zoldberg:

500 mW. This is a very good indicator for laser illumination.


This is not a "good indicator". This is a crime, incl. and criminal. “If you are not caught, you are not a thief” is not an argument. There are no such factory backlights.
To get started, check out
##224-255,
then think three or four times whether it needs to spoil your health, yourself or those around you. Medicine does not yet know how to restore retinal damage or replace eyes with new ones.

dr.Zoldberg 18-01-2016 14:29

Dear Gratius, don’t be so categorical. We are all, for the most part, mature, sensible men who own deadly weapons and understand all the responsibility that we assume. I read almost all of your articles on the forum, some several times. They are very useful, thank you.
But in order.
Circumstances forced me to take up laser illumination. I got a used NVG with a built-in laser sight/illuminator. The laser/illuminator did not work, so I searched through a bunch of forums and information about laser diodes to restore it and did a lot of experiments with different laser diodes. And this is what I can say.
I don’t know what power is indicated on flashlights sold in stores, but their real power should be clearly higher. This is evidenced by my first experience: a laser diode with an output power of 200 mW and a wavelength of 808 nm illuminates no further than 5 meters with a spot 2 meters in diameter. When focusing it into a beam (using a lens), the point can be observed at a distance of up to 100m. I specifically measure the diode power - 200 mW. From here I conclude that this power for illumination is definitely not enough! Second experience: laser diodes of 500 and 1000 mW were purchased (the power was rechecked). The one that 500 mW gives the optimal result - the point is ideally visible at 100 meters, it is also visible at 200, but the device at such a distance does not allow you to see it in more detail. A defocused spot at 50 meters has a diameter of 3 meters - for me the best option. It's as visible as day. We focus the spot at 150 meters with a diameter of 5-6 meters. Again everything is clearly visible. We also focus at 200 meters, and here we could see everything if the resolution of the device allowed it. But you can definitely see the sparkling eyes.
The eyes shine - 0 reactions. Hence another conclusion: a defocused 500 mW laser does not even cause discomfort to the animal. (Although a focused 200 mW diode will burn the thin foil of a DVD at point-blank range, and a 500 mW diode can set a match on fire). Experiment three: I hung the one-watt device on another driver (because the power was too high, I didn’t want to burn my night vision devices). It shines even brighter than the 500th, but what did you expect? I no longer focused it - there was no need for such a bright backlight. And the fourth experiment: I unscrewed the green pointer (but before that I checked its range - I shined it on a TV tower 8 km away in direct visibility - I observed obvious glare). So its illuminating ability is approximately the same as that of a 500 mW diode, from which a conclusion is drawn about its power. Animals don't turn their eyes away from it either.
And on sale flashlights either declare unrealistic power, or measure it according to their specifications, just to comply with SNiPs and other laws that allow their free sale. IMHO.

It is also necessary to take into account that the focused beam of the laser laser with a diameter of 3 mm and the defocused beam with a diameter of 3 m differ in area by 1 million times. This means that the specific power per unit area is less by the same amount. Therefore, accidental exposure to out-of-focus illumination is unlikely to damage your vision. And if someone deliberately shines a light into their apple and then is surprised at the deterioration of their eyesight, then they might as well clean a loaded gun.

I don’t force laser illumination on anyone, because... its use can have a detrimental effect on someone’s health; its use is a personal matter for everyone. The main thing is not to neglect safety precautions.

Dad 1957 18-01-2016 21:53

quote: Originally posted by dr.Zoldberg:

Dear Gratius, don’t be so categorical.


Self-harm and suicide are a personal matter.
It is man's duty to prevent, to warn.
quote: Originally posted by dr.Zoldberg:

I illuminated the neighbor's cat and my Barbos in this way.


It’s good that the off-suit “greens” don’t read this.
quote: Originally posted by dr.Zoldberg:

Animals don't turn their eyes away from it either.


quote: Originally posted by dr.Zoldberg:

Eyes sparkle - 0 reactions.


quote: Originally posted by dr.Zoldberg:

The laser does not even cause discomfort to the animal.


I assure you that in the zone of deadly r/a radiation you will not only not feel anything, but you won’t even wince! But this does not mean that you need to pick big tasty mushrooms there.
There are already precedents for initiating criminal cases with the use of lasers (without or with loss of health). sold under license to sane people.
And you won’t even feel the impact of the laser (like your poor Barsiki) at first. My car radar detector warns, including about the rangefinder (speedometer) radiation, sometimes squeals in the most unexpected places. Just think it’s a glitch, or some kind of interference, or some young idiot is experimenting on you!

Gratius 20-01-2016 16:16

Sorry, but I will categorical.
Firstly, you are publicly calling for the commission of an illegal act that can lead to serious bodily harm (this is how the Criminal Code defines damage to vision);
secondly, you have been provided with material explaining in detail why a laser beam, even a defocused one, is dangerous, with links to primary sources, which you did not deign to read, as follows from your text;
thirdly, as practice shows, a phrase like “Don’t be afraid, I’ve done this a hundred times” is one of the most popular before going to the emergency room or morgue.

quote: Originally posted by dr.Zoldberg:

do not neglect safety precautions


in relation to high-power laser technology, it means “if you’re not an expert, don’t interfere.” I know what I'm talking about: this is one of my “working” devices

dr.Zoldberg 22-01-2016 09:59

Laser illumination has a tangible advantage - its visibility with the naked eye is many times less than the standard diode of my scope, and its power is much higher. And somehow the picture turns out clearer. It’s a pity that the standard illumination does not focus (on my scope), otherwise the result could have been good. In the photo both lights are on.

Grish@ 22-01-2016 11:12

quote: Originally posted by dr.Zoldberg:

I illuminated the neighbor's cat and my Barbos in this way.


Yes, this is sadism...
quote: Originally posted by dr.Zoldberg:

The eyes shine - 0 reactions. Hence another conclusion: a defocused 500 mW laser does not even cause discomfort to the animal.


But this is already stupidity.

Gratius 22-01-2016 15:16

quote: Originally posted by dr.Zoldberg:

Eyes sparkle - 0 reactions.


quote: Originally posted by Sarepta2200:

Poacher's trick, I ordered a regular green laser on a Chinese website, 400 milliwatts for 100 matches, it lights it up, then after playing with it... I took it apart... when I took it apart, I lost the lens and as a result the beam became 2 meters by 200 meters in size, and at the same time the target was clearly visible through the optics . Animals were scared of the green laser when it was a point, but now, when they hit the beam, they stand rooted to the spot and don’t move anywhere. I only realized later that they were blinded and couldn’t see a damn thing!!! I myself tried to enter the beam, orientation is lost and there is no desire to go somewhere blindly... even during the day you will not see anything except a green flash.

That’s why illiteracy in some matter is usually combined with stubbornness and unshakable confidence in one’s rightness?

Boris19684 24-01-2016 12:25

Originally posted by dr.Zoldberg:
[B]
It's a pity that the standard backlight does not focus


the second Saturday I give free rein to my playful little hands...
I bought a thicker flashlight, a cheaper ring for pneumatics...
diode, button, microphone cord and off we go)))
this is what happened:
now the flashlight focuses, the beam lengthens (this is objective)
I’ll post the results in the field a week after the pig closes

vladimir-ilich 26-01-2016 20:54

then the answer is clear - of course you can! You will need: a laser module, preferably ready-made, or solder the laser + driver yourself; optical system for beam scattering; switch; frame; battery or battery. Anti-laser glasses for work safety and a proven driver "DirectHands.sys" are highly recommended.
What to do with that ancient miracle in the photo? Throw it in the trash.

Dad 1957 03-02-2016 19:29

quote: Originally posted by tolya:

can you make a laser flashlight?




The answer is clear - of course you can!


If you don’t treat it like replacing a light bulb in a public toilet.

vladimir-ilich 03-02-2016 19:33

quote: Originally posted by ENA:
Actually, no one has repealed Ohm's law. 4.2-1.6=2.6v. 2.6v./1a=2.6ohm.

Thanks for the correction. While I'm waiting for the flashlight and camera.

Boris19684 07-02-2016 10:42

quote: Originally posted by dr.Zoldberg:
I have a laser diode there. Its power is approximately 500 mW. This is a very good indicator for laser illumination. Factory flashlights of this power cost 5-10 thousand. Mine cost 1.5 thousand (you could buy it on Ali for 2 times cheaper).
Just for fun, try experimenting with laser illumination.

what is the wavelength?

dr.Zoldberg 08-02-2016 07:51


Conducted an experiment with a cat. The cat is chasing the green pointer, and he is also running around like crazy after the focused bunny of an ordinary LED flashlight. But he doesn’t really care about the IR dot and the bunny from the IR flashlight.

merik80 08-02-2016 15:41

Can a night vision camera with a photosensitivity of 0.0001 see an IR flashlight and laser?

Gratius 08-02-2016 22:33

If there is no IR filter in the lens, you can see

dr.Zoldberg 12-03-2016 19:04

How many meters does it shine? Is focus/power adjustable?

vladimir-ilich 12-03-2016 20:51

There is focus, two power modes plus a strobe. Unfortunately, it doesn’t focus well up close, but it hits far away, but I haven’t been able to test it yet.

VPV 15-03-2016 01:47

quote: Originally posted by dr.Zoldberg:

8-2-2016 07:51
I bought another green pointer on Alibaba for 250 rubles like this http://ru.aliexpress.com/item/...2431384191.html, weaker, with focus adjustment. Estimated wavelength 808 nm. I also got an additional LED flashlight with power and focus adjustment. The diode supplied 850 nm with a power of 3W (Chinese). It also shines very far away. With your instruments, 1pok is visible at 200-250m. The red eye of this flashlight clearly shines less than the standard one, and much further.



If you don’t mind, can you be more precise about what was crossed with what?
It’s better in RM, otherwise the Gurus are fighting here)))

leschii777 16-03-2016 12:19

SergeiR 21-03-2016 07:52

vladimir-ilich And dr. Zoldberg look at R.M.

sautin_sergey 21-03-2016 10:52

And I’m interested in collecting information like this in RM, AP topic!

leschii777 22-03-2016 20:08

Thanks everyone for the information. A 3 watt 900nm diode was purchased. I found a donor at home, a headlamp with adjustable focus. Out with the old diode and in its place with IR. Three sees 300 meters. Savings are approximately 4500.

ost1 23-03-2016 03:04

Useful topic!

ost1 26-03-2016 18:06



How was it redone? Did you just replace the diode or did you have to tinker with the driver?

vvsgess 26-03-2016 21:03

quote: Originally posted by ang347:

Where can I find IR diodes on this non-Russian Ali?


type in the search engine 850nm
or else you can switch to Russian
850nm with a power of about 200mw is a bit expensive. I bought myself 805nm 200 and 300mw on ebay. I’ll use Gals instead of my native one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111249...K%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Dad 1957 26-03-2016 23:52



Did you just replace the diode or did you have to tinker with the driver?


Diodes of the visible and IR spectra have different supply voltages. Therefore, changing a diode to one of similar IR power is possible only if a driver with current stabilization is installed. For 1W this is 350mA; 3W - 900mA.

ost1 27-03-2016 04:37



Diodes of the visible and IR spectra have different supply voltages. Therefore, changing a diode to one of similar IR power is possible only if a driver with current stabilization is installed. For 1W this is 350mA; 3W - 900mA.

So how can I change it?

ang347 27-03-2016 09:09

quote: Originally posted by vvsgess:

type in the search engine 850nm


Thank you!

Dad 1957 27-03-2016 15:54

quote: Originally posted by ost1:

So how can I change it?


Simple. You need to purchase the required IR diode with the appropriate driver (from 3 to 5 W), from a flashlight (with a similar-sized module) take a case with an optical system, and for batteries from 3 to 6 volts, and change the elements installed there, to purchased. This is if you need a flashlight. For a grenade launcher, Chinese flashlights (except for the Phoenix brand) are not suitable, no matter how they declare them. To convert them into a grenade launcher (not any Chinese is suitable) you will need turning work. And if you try to make candy out of shit, it will turn out to be shit sweetie!

ost1 27-03-2016 21:03

Thank you. “with the appropriate driver” - this is interesting. I looked on the Internet, they sell diodes on a star board, with a wavelength of 850 Nm, where can I buy a driver?

vladimir-ilich 27-03-2016 21:30

I came across a flashlight with a 1W driver, and I bought a 1W diode, so I just replaced the diode.

Dad 1957 27-03-2016 21:46

In Moscow and can’t find the driver? I will not believe! As a last resort, buy a flashlight with a diode of the same power as in the purchased IR, and powered (for example) by a lithium 16850 3.7 V. It doesn’t matter that the diode voltages will be 3.3 and 1.9 V, because the driver will probably be CURRENT stabilized! The Chinese, as a rule, don’t install such lanterns with bells and whistles. If you arbitrarily use a driver with a higher current, the smaller diode will burn out, like screwing in a 500-volt light bulb in a toilet instead of 220. You’ll see a toilet, but where leaked - unlikely.

ost1 27-03-2016 22:56

quote: Originally posted by Dad 1957:
In Moscow and can’t find the driver? I will not believe! As a last resort, buy a flashlight with a diode of the same power as in the purchased IR, and powered (for example) by a lithium 16850 3.7 V. It doesn’t matter that the diode voltages will be 3.3 and 1.9 V, because the driver will probably be CURRENT stabilized! The Chinese, as a rule, don’t install such lanterns with bells and whistles. If you arbitrarily use a driver with a higher current, the smaller diode will burn out, like screwing in a 500-volt light bulb in a toilet instead of 220. You’ll see a toilet, but where leaked - unlikely.

I have a “brain” I know, he’s good at electronics, I’ll have to load it up.

ENA 28-03-2016 10:30

Don’t bother with the driver, you have a budget IR flashlight, just install a current-setting resistor of 2.5-10 ohms 2W from 18650 and you will be happy.

ost1 03-04-2016 15:15

quote: Originally posted by vladimir-ilich:
Actually the donor is from China and the LED is 850 nm 1 watt. Budget 500r (350 flashlight with Ali Express, LED with star 150r).

How did you combine the diode and flashlight? So as not to burn the diode?

fenimore 07-04-2016 20:49


or 1300 rub. already with a weaver ring and a cord with a button???

ost1 07-04-2016 22:04


Or maybe just buy a Chinese flashlight 1 watt 850nm or 940nm for 600 rubles
or 1300 rub. already with a weaver ring and a cord with a button???

fenimore 08-04-2016 08:10


On eBay there is a choice for every taste

ost1 08-04-2016 08:54

quote: Originally posted by fenimore:

On eBay there is a choice for every taste

RuslanT 17-04-2016 21:58

Good evening!
Please tell me, can such an emitter be adapted for illumination? http://ru.aliexpress.com/item/...81-79c7110b9edc

fenimore 17-04-2016 22:17

quote: and such an emitter is possible

You need to ask a specialist...
The question is with the temperature range???..., and with the operating time...
How to defocus it too?

ost1 18-04-2016 10:44

quote: Originally posted by ost1:

It will run for 40 days and I need a flashlight now. Today I’ll rush to Chip and Deep and solder a voltage divider from 4.5 to 1.7 V.

Soldered, everything works, output 1.8V

fenimore 18-04-2016 15:23

What did you solder?
Show me...

ost1 19-04-2016 08:28

quote: Originally posted by fenimore:
What did you solder?
Show me...

Yes, a flashlight with an IR diode remained in the village, a pestilence. I found an online calculation of the output voltage and built a divider from 4.5 to 1.8 Volts.

vladimir-ilich 19-05-2016 21:45

I'll raise the topic. China has power and voltage regulators, Cccv 5A Li-ion battery charging module LED driver Step down DC power supply
http://s.aliexpress.com/z2ee2uMr
(from AliExpress Android).
I decided not to be fancy with the diagrams and take a ready-made solution. By the way, a 5W 940nm diode arrived, so I’ll check it on it.

seregka24111985 20-05-2016 09:59

Good afternoon, comrade!
Please tell me what exactly needs to be picked from the diode in the laser pointer, so that you get a spot of 5-10 meters at 200m like yours?

Gratius 20-05-2016 17:54


what exactly needs to be picked from the diode in a laser pointer


Lazy people... It's described in detail, even with a video:
#87 Just before you “pick”, look at what you might run into:
#224-229.

ang347 21-05-2016 09:14

quote: Originally posted by Gratius:

It's not hemorrhoids, it's much worse.


Thanks Mikhail for the warning.
I bought a pointer, but now I’m afraid to use it. Let it lie in the safe without batteries. I have already ordered a diode flashlight from the Chinese with a reg. focus. I REALLY love my eyes =c)

Gratius 21-05-2016 18:50

Guys, I’m not saying what you can’t do, but you need to “stand there, be afraid.” I say that you need to UNDERSTAND what you are doing and observe TB for YOURSELF, and not to “fuck off”. Do you try not to play around with firearms?

seregka24111985 27-05-2016 19:50

I gave my flashlight with focusing to a friend and asked him to solder a 3W IR diode onto it. Resoldered. It turned out to be some kind of crap!

I’m thinking of using a pointer to harp now!

Serpent 26 17-06-2016 11:16

Interesting topic!! Let's cheer up together!!!

seregka24111985 25-06-2016 03:50

Guys, maybe someone will help out and help make an 808 Hm IR laser illuminator out of such a powerful pointer? Or maybe someone has it lying idle after experiments?
For money of course!

ang347 25-06-2016 09:34

quote: Originally posted by seregka24111985:

Guys, maybe someone will help out and help make an 808 Hm IR laser illuminator out of such a powerful pointer?


Buy a pointer. We need the green one!
Then knock here, we'll tell you what needs to be broken off. The whole alteration will take five minutes (this includes two smoke breaks). No tools required =c)

seregka24111985 25-06-2016 11:14

I'll order it here. Will it do?

ang347 25-06-2016 13:13

quote: Originally posted by seregka24111985:

Will it do?


Quite.

ang347 25-06-2016 13:28

What to pick:
The outer lens is a collimator. Unscrew it carefully. Below it will be the laser itself with a cylindrical part roughly glued on top. This is the part that needs to be broken off (I pressed lightly on the side with my finger and that’s it =c)). Then put the collimator in place and the illumination is ready.
Radiation is dangerous for your eyes =c)

Serpent 26 27-06-2016 16:32

This is the part that needs to be broken off

To Kulibiny, handsome guys!!!

Serpent 26 27-06-2016 17:12

Hello everyone!! I myself am considering using a laser pointer for illumination. I don’t know how true it is, but some indicate the temperature at which it operates, and the turn-on time is no more than 20 seconds, otherwise they will burn out.

ang347 27-06-2016 18:03

quote: Originally posted by Serpent 26:

but some indicate the temperature at which it operates


The temperature is indicated specifically for the “green light”; at a certain sub-zero temperature, the pointer begins to emit only IR radiation. The laser can overheat =c) It will burn out, you can always buy a new one from our slanted brothers =c) Price...

fenimore 06-07-2016 12:34

quote: At a certain sub-zero temperature, the pointer begins to emit only IR radiation.

Interesting point...

Gratius 06-07-2016 22:20

quote: Originally posted by fenimore:

Interesting point...


People seem to be reaching new heights by NOT READING posts. In the same topic, on the previous page, #82 is a link to a detailed explanation, with diagrams and videos.

stemleksandr 08-08-2016 21:09

quote: Originally posted by Gratius:

Lord, why am I so kind? Although long since retired...


that’s why I’m kind))) thanks for the tips

split oak 13-09-2016 19:24

So will the flashlight work with Ali, or should I not bother???
Has anyone tried it??

ENA 13-09-2016 20:28

Will do. Just order a remote button or you will have to redo the power button, it clicks too much.

Proposed IR illumination can be used with a household camera that has a night mode (this is what it was designed for) to ensure the operation of CCTV cameras or night vision devices (NVD) in low light conditions.

The circuit is based on a pulse generator assembled on the widely used integrated timer NE555 (Fig. 1).

The generator frequency should be in the range from 11 to 15 kHz.

DIY IR camera

With the ratings of the frequency-setting elements indicated in the diagram (R1, R2, C1), it is slightly more than 13300 Hz. From the output of the generator, through resistor R3, pulses are supplied to the input of the composite transistor VT1-VT2, the load of which is 28 parallel-connected TSAL5100 IR LEDs, combined into an emitter.

Thanks to the use of a generator, the LEDs in the IR illumination operate in a pulsed mode, which makes it possible to achieve a 2-fold increase in the output power compared to DC power. The IR illumination power is 6.5 W, the current consumption is 1.5 A at a supply voltage of 6.3 V.

Transistors VT1 and VT2 should be installed on aluminum radiators with dimensions of 50x40x2 mm.

Resistors R4 and R5 must have a permissible power of at least 15 W (it is better to install 20 W to increase reliability and reduce heating).

The emitter is made from any old LED flashlight with 28 LEDs.

The only thing that matters here is the reflector itself with the front glass. To make an IR emitter, we unsolder all the old LEDs and solder TSAL5100 in their place. After this, we install the front glass and reflector in place. The front glass must be installed. It protects the emitter from moisture and acts as a diffuser. Since LEDs have a small radiation angle, in the absence of glass, dark and light spots are clearly distinguishable in the image.

After this, on the solder side, the board is sealed with a layer of Moment glue, epoxy resin or polystyrene dissolved in dichloroethane.

Similar radio circuits and articles:

Can you make lighting or IC light by yourself?

Viktor.77 22.10.2014 22:25

Hi all. The online store Chip and Deep sells various IR diodes - the prices are ridiculous. You can even dig a laser. The question for the experts is, could this be a fryer? Only in electronics, not much, but soldering is available. The scheme can throw someone away, tell me what to buy. Am I not worried and not tearing money out of the budget of the cormorant factory?

Bata 1957 23.10.2014 18: 10 quotes:

Only in electronics, not much, but soldering is available.

I remembered an old movie;
-Ludit! Sow! Let's fix the cuckoo shell!
If you want to create super exclusivity, in addition to electronics knowledge, you will need knowledge of optics, turning (+ machine), modeling, etc.
If you have a firm grasp on what you need, it's easier to adopt the right industrial design and give it the diodes with the driver you need.
And don’t forget that any model at the purchase price will always be more expensive than the production model. This is for LCU and backlight for NVV.
If the alarms for the measurement and case are not critical, you can of course get the full ones (diodes, collimators, drive drivers) and push them in the appropriate case. Many people do this and save a little. Viktor.77 23.10.2014 22:58

“If size and body concerns are not critical, then of course you can buy
(diodes, collimators, power drivers) and push them to the appropriate
the body “—that’s all there is to it, and it’s necessary.

In some old lamps, IC and better insert a laser diode, smooth or weak, such as a hundred meters to highlight several hours

KanyT88 10-31-2014 12:47

A great version of a sub base comes from a C12 tube.

The diode and driver only change. Total available on ebay.

Viktor.77 03.11.2014 10:00

And maybe in more detail? Highlight diodes, driver, circuits?

Home ▲ ▼

How does a flashlight with a battery work?

Flashlight circuit with battery

As a radio mechanic, I am interested in the simplest electronic devices.

This time we will talk about a flashlight with a battery.

Here is a diagram of a flashlight with a battery.

The flashlight consists of two parts. In one part there is a battery and a mains charger, and in the other there is a switch and an incandescent lamp.

To charge the battery, one part of the flashlight is disconnected from the head (where the lamp and switch are) and connected to a 220V network.

The photo shows an adapter connector that connects the battery and the switch to the incandescent lamp.

The design of such a flashlight is extremely simple.

To charge a lead-acid battery G1 with a capacity of 1 A/h (1 ampere-hour) and a voltage of 4V, a circuit with a quenching capacitor C1 is used.

Criteria for selecting an IR illuminator

Most of the 220V network voltage drops on it. Then the alternating voltage after the quenching capacitor is rectified by a diode bridge using diodes VD1 - VD4 (1N4001).

To smooth out ripples, an electrolytic capacitor C2 is installed after the diode bridge.

The load for this entire rectifier is battery G1. If you turn it off, the rectifier output will have a voltage of about 300 volts, although when the battery is connected, the voltage at its output is 4 - 4.5 volts.

It is worth noting that the circuit with a damping (ballast) capacitor is simple, but quite dangerous. The fact is that such a circuit is not galvanically isolated from the 220 volt network. When using a transformer, the circuit becomes more electrically safe, but due to the high cost of this part, a circuit with a quenching capacitor is used.

The VD5 diode is necessary so that when the circuit is disconnected from the network, the battery does not discharge through the rectifier circuit and indication on the red LED HL1 and resistor R2.

But the EL1 incandescent lamp (or a circuit of LEDs) is connected to the battery only through switch SA1. It turns out that the VD5 diode serves as a kind of barrier that passes current to the battery from the mains rectifier, but not back. This is such a simple defense.

It is also worth saying that a small part of the rectified voltage is lost on the VD5 diode - due to the voltage drop across the diode when connected directly ( VF). It is somewhere between 0.5 - 0.7 volts.

I would also like to say something about the battery. As stated, it is sealed lead acid (Pb).

Consists of two 2 volt cells connected in series. That is, the battery, as they say, consists of 2 cans.

The battery indicates that the maximum charge current is 0.5 amperes. Although for lead Pb batteries it is recommended to limit the charge current to 0.1 of its capacity.

Those. for this battery, the best charging current is 100mA (0.1A).

Typical problems with battery-powered flashlights are:

    Failure of mains rectifier elements (diodes, electrolytic capacitor, resistor in the indication circuit);

    Malfunction of the switch button (easily repaired by any suitable latching button or rocker switch);

    Battery degradation (aging);

    Worn contact connectors.

Home »Radio electronics for beginners» Current page

T You might also be interested to know:

IR flashlight Pulsar - 940 - a powerful, invisible to the eye, infrared illuminator with the ability to focus the light spot (from directional to diffuse), as well as adjust the intensity of the glow. The flashlight operates in the remote IR range (940nm). The light of the lantern is invisible to the naked eye.

IR flashlight Pulsar - 940 is intended for use with digital night vision devices and is not recommended for use with night vision devices based on image intensifier tube gen.1 / CF-Super.

The lights are equipped with a standard Weaver type mount.

In addition, the flashlight can be used simply by holding it in your hands.

Lens diameter, mm 24

Power, mW 150

Power change range (min/max), mW 50 ...

Radiation wavelength, nm 940

Radiation divergence angle, degrees. 5.7...10

Supply voltage, V 3 (2xAA)

Average operating time from one set of batteries, hour 2

Operating temperature range, °C -20 … +40

Dimensions, mm 132x45x52

Weight (without batteries / with batteries), g 140 / 190

How to make an infrared flashlight

devices

Digital night vision devices and sights

The YUKON company presented new IR flashlights: Pulsar-805 and Pulsar-940

More than sixty years have passed since the first mass use of night vision devices; their development and production in our time have reached a significant level. The devices have become sensitive and compact, but one insoluble question remains: what to do in complete darkness?

In this case, darkness (the complete absence of light flux) can be observed not only in the basement of the house, but also in the forest. In our northern latitudes, the days are not only short, but also dark, not to mention the night hours. Neither stars nor moon are visible, the sky is overcast. Under these conditions, even the latest devices of generation 2+ and 3 cope with great difficulty, but this is practically the pinnacle of what has been achieved by science and production. But we are not at war, and without any fear we can use IR illumination, which is invisible to animals.

When using powerful IR illumination, the performance of generation 2, 2+ and 3 night sights has reached the level of perfection - impeccable clarity, image brightness at reasonable, far from short, distances.

What are the requirements for developers of IR flashlights for hunters?

The flashlight should emit a powerful, evenly focused beam.

In this case, this beam must be adjusted in width and brightness; sometimes it is necessary to have a narrow beam that does not illuminate the branches of the tree on which you are sitting, since such illumination will negatively affect the perception of distant objects. But there is one more feature of powerful IR illumination - it brings generation 1 and 1+ devices back to life. With powerful IR illumination, these devices provide a fairly bright, clear picture, although only in the central part of the visible field, but sometimes this is quite enough to make an accurate shot.

The sight does not look at the field; it is used to point the weapon at the target and shoot.

The Yukon company has begun producing infrared flashlights Pulsar-805 and Pulsar-940, designed for additional illumination of observation objects with infrared rays when using night vision devices in complete darkness. Pulsar-940 emits rays invisible to the human eye. It is preferable to use devices based on image intensifier tubes (of any generation) with the Pulsar-805 IR illuminator.

This is explained by the rather high spectral sensitivity of the image intensifier in the range of 800-850 nm. The spot of the Pulsar-940 IR illuminator will look like a small speck through a device based on an image intensifier tube (in reality, the device will only see “tails” from the near range, which are also left by the IR illuminator diode.

Here it should be noted that although CCD matrices (digital devices) are close in their spectral sensitivity to image intensifier tubes, they perceive the “invisible” IR illuminator much better (not to mention the usual 805 nm illuminator).

Ultimately, the effectiveness of an invisible backlight directly depends on its power. Its undoubted advantage is invisibility. In a practical sense, the use of invisible illumination is justified not even for hunting, but when using a night vision device as a means of observation for security purposes, etc.

The use of Pulsar flashlights allows you to:

– significantly increase the observation range;

– identify objects of observation;

– examine the selected object in detail.

Flashlights Pulsar-805 and 940 allow you to change the size and position of the IR spot depending on the distance, and smoothly adjust the lighting power.

Flashlights Pulsar-805, Pulsar-940:

Power: 50-150 mW

Radiation divergence angle: 5.7–10 degrees.

Weight with batteries (2 AA batteries): 190 g.

  • — IR flashlight

IR illumination for camera

Short description

Good afternoon. Today I want to offer you a simple designer IR illumination scheme, which can be widely used at home and not only... The original version of IR illumination is shown in the figure above.

The basis of this circuit is a pulse generator assembled on the widely used integrated timer NE555.

The frequency of this generator should be in the range from 11 to 15 kilohertz and with the elements specified on the diagram it is slightly more than 13300 hertz (It is set by the chain R1-R2-C1). From the output of this generator, through resistor R3, oscillations are supplied to the input of the composite transistor T1-T2.

The load of this transistor is 28 parallel-connected TSAL5100 IR LEDs, combined into an emitter.

Thanks to the use of a generator, the LEDs of this backlight operate in pulse mode (dynamic indication), which makes it possible to increase the efficiency of the device and increase the output power by almost 2 times.

The power of this backlight is 6.5 Watts, the current consumption is 1.5 Amps at a supply voltage of 6.3 Volts.

Transistors T1 and T2 should be installed on aluminum radiators measuring 50*40*2 mm. Resistors R4 and R5 must have a power of at least 15 watts. It is better to install 20-watt ones in order to increase reliability and reduce heating.

(In the photo of the prototype below, 10-watt resistors are installed, but when the backlight is on, they get very hot, so 20-watt resistors were installed in the finished device after testing).

The emitter is made from any old flashlight with 28 LEDs. For us, only the reflector itself with the front glass is important.

To make the emitter, we solder all the old LEDs and solder TSAL5100 in their place. After this, we install the front glass and reflector in place. The front glass must be installed. It performs 2 functions: Protects the emitter from moisture and acts as a diffuser (Since LEDs have a small radiation angle, in the absence of glass, dark and light spots are clearly distinguishable). After this, on the reverse side (Soldering side), the board is sealed with a layer of Moment glue, epoxy resin or polystyrene dissolved in dichloroethane.

The result will be an emitter like the one on the far right of the photo below.

Below are photos (photos 2 and 3) and video from the backlight test. In the photo, the glow of the LEDs has a pink tint due to the IR filter installed in the camera, which practically blocks it.

#191 HOMEMADE Testing various types of infrared illumination for CCTV cameras

The video clearly compares the factory-built IR illumination built into the camera with a homemade one. At the very beginning of the video, the factory backlight is demonstrated, then we glue the emitter and turn on the homemade one, and at the very end the difference between the factory and homemade backlights is clearly shown.

As you can see from the video, the homemade backlight is more powerful compared to the factory one.

This backlight can be used with a household camera that has a night shooting mode (which is what it was originally designed for); for illumination of CCTV cameras; for working with zero-generation night vision devices, etc.

Several photos from the IR illumination test

Click on the photo to enlarge.

Photo will open in a new window

Video from IR illumination tests

As it turned out later, a small error crept into the calculations. Despite the efficiency of the backlight, it did not provide the full required power. Thanks to consultation and some clarifications from members of the forum from the wonderful site RadioKot, the error was corrected.

The text of the changes that need to be made to the original diagram is attached below.

The damping resistance in the circuit is not calculated quite correctly. In the original circuit, resistor R4 should be excluded from the circuit, and the resistance of resistor R5 should be equal to 0.5 Ohms. In this case, the peak current through the emitter will be 5.6 A, and the average, accordingly, will be 2.8 A, since the power is supplied by a meander (half the period the current flows through the LEDs, and the second half - not).

The emitted power will average 3.64 W/st. In general, it is better to select this resistance R5 more accurately according to the current consumed, monitoring it with an electronic ammeter, setting the current to 2.8 A. This is due to the fact that transistor VT2 has a large spread in the collector-emitter saturation voltage in the open state. And the value of the calculated resistor directly depends on this voltage drop.

In addition, the capacitance of capacitor C1 should be increased to 75 nF. In this case, the generator frequency will be approximately equal to 5300 Hz, which corresponds to the desired operating mode of the emitter LEDs.

That's all for today. Good luck replicating this highlight. Best regards, Andrey Savchenko.

Infrared lighting has always been relevant for the development of various security systems, as it allows you to see objects even in complete darkness. Recently, the manifestation of the positive influence of IR light has also been noticed when growing greenhouse plants. The cost of professional equipment is quite high, and the components do not always correspond to the goals set. Therefore, let’s look at how to make an infrared flashlight with your own hands.

Operating principle of an infrared flashlight

First of all, let's define what an infrared flashlight is and for what purposes it is used. Such flashlights provide the opportunity to provide additional illumination of objects for observation using rays in the infrared range.

The light emitted by such a flashlight is invisible to the human eye, but allows you to see the object of interest even in complete darkness due to the use of infrared LEDs. This will be especially relevant for the security sector, because it is difficult to install a powerful spotlight at the site, the operation of which will cause more inconvenience. In this case, it is worth using an infrared illumination flashlight, which has the following number of properties:

  • increasing observation range,
  • facilitating object identification,
  • monitoring the terrain and objects at night,

Such lighting would be the best choice, since such lanterns have a number of advantages:

  • low power consumption,
  • LED service life,
  • range.

Components for assembling an infrared flashlight

Assembling an infrared flashlight with your own hands is not that difficult. To get started, you will need the simplest tools:

  • Phillips screwdrivers (various sizes),
  • soldering iron with a thin tip, power 60 W,
  • infrared LEDs (average cost from 1 dollar per piece),
  • wire for supplying power from the LEDs to the battery,
  • actually, the battery itself for the IR flashlight

In addition, you should use electrical tape and take a base for the lantern. A simple flashlight that will be converted to infrared will also do. To create such a device, you do not need anything specific; any components can be purchased at your first electrical store.

The process of assembling an infrared flashlight

Creating an infrared flashlight is also not difficult. In fact, if it is designed on the basis of a simple LED, then it is often enough to replace conventional LEDs with infrared ones by soldering - and the device is ready. If you want to create a more complex technique, then you will have to carry out a few more manipulations:

  • the old flashlight is disassembled and the lens is removed from it (it is better to leave the protective glass, if any),
  • power wires are soldered to the infrared LEDs (or LED, if one is used),
  • then the second end of the wire is soldered to the battery (battery or rechargeable battery),
  • The final step will be to isolate the connections. When soldering, it is advisable to cover the soldered elements using heat shrink tubes; the wires should be secured together with electrical tape.

After the steps have been completed, the infrared flashlight is ready.

Quite often, to effectively observe distant objects, you need to use something more substantial than a simple IR flashlight. For these purposes, it is quite possible to assemble an infrared spotlight. People unprepared for such work may associate the word “spotlight” with bulky lighting equipment, but this is not the case. Roughly speaking, floodlights are powerful infrared flashlights with a significant number of infrared LEDs.

The base requires a housing, which in the future will be an IR illuminator. If you plan to create a low-power lighting device for domestic needs (for example, for night photography), it is not necessary to cover the LEDs with protective glass; otherwise, if you intend to use the spotlight as a lighting device for video surveillance systems, it is highly recommended to construct a ready-made design in a waterproof case.

Build process:

  • in the selected case (let's say it looks like a plastic box), marks are made (for example, 8-10 for the same number of LEDs in each row, of which there will also be several). The marks should be at an equal distance from each other (it is optimal to choose a difference of 5 mm),
  • Using a drill and a low-power drill or screwdriver, holes are drilled at the indicated marks for inserting LEDs. On the other side of the case, you should also consider the fastening system. If an amateur IR illuminator will be connected to a camera or video camera, then it is enough to make one hole into which a bolt will be inserted and subsequently tightened with a nut,
  • the breadboard (for mounting LEDs) is cut using simple scissors to the dimensions required for installation,
  • then infrared LEDs are placed in it so that the cathodes and anodes are arranged in a row, and the IR LEDs themselves fall into the drilled holes in the box body,
  • the legs of the LEDs are bent in one line for further soldering, each row separately,
  • using a soldering iron (a model with a thin tip and a heating power of 60 W is optimal), the tracks of the LED legs are soldered into lines,
  • After these steps, the black power wire is used to connect the anode tracks (for example, if the IR LEDs are arranged in three rows and, accordingly, will have six rows of legs on the back side of the board, then the anodes are three rows. A wire is soldered to the outermost of them, with the rest it is connected in rows using a jumper),
  • a resistor with a resistance of 220 Ohms should be soldered to the cathodes, after which the resistor jumpers are connected into a single unit and the red power wire is soldered to them,
  • the battery must be connected on the other side of the cables,
  • After these steps, the body is assembled and the amateur IR illuminator, assembled with your own hands, is ready.

It is advisable to add the ability to turn off the power supply to the LEDs. Despite their low power consumption, it is simply not practical to supply power when there is no need for IR illumination (especially during daylight hours).

Application areas of infrared flashlight

As has already been written above, the main environment for using infrared flashlights and floodlights lies in the security sector. Flashlights are best suited for the following purposes:

  • as a backlight at night in front of intercoms and door video eyes, in order to be able to directly see a person,
  • illumination of internal video surveillance systems (especially important for small rooms),
  • additional lighting of the space at night (for external surveillance cameras),
  • infrared spotlights (excluding the amateur class, which in terms of operating range should be classified as IR flashlights) are used in cases where it is necessary to ensure a good degree of observation of objects at medium (from 20 to 50 meters) and long distances (up to 400 meters) ,
  • providing effective lighting for video surveillance systems when protecting large buildings,
  • viewing the protected perimeter,
  • additional lighting for night vision devices,
  • if it is inadmissible to use spotlights, which may cause inconvenience when working with them.

Separately, it is worth highlighting another interesting aspect of the use of infrared flashlights, since we are talking about video surveillance. For some reason, not every person wants a video camera to record him. In this case, there is a simple and extremely cheap option to provide yourself with camouflage and hide your face from CCTV cameras. To do this, it is enough to create a simple device that works on the principle of an infrared flashlight. According to the indicated method of assembling such a flashlight, several infrared LEDs connected to a nine-volt battery should be attached to a headdress (an ordinary cap will do). Such a system will not stand out at all in its appearance, however, for video surveillance cameras, the upper part of a person’s body will appear as a bright spot in which it will be impossible to distinguish a face.

Attackers may not rush to rub their hands happily; this method only works against budget CCTV cameras; more expensive models are not so sensitive to the influence of IR radiation on them. Therefore, such tricks will not affect a good video surveillance system; a person’s face will be clearly visible even when using several rows of IR LEDs.

Safety precautions when working with an infrared flashlight

It is important to remember that the use of this technology can be harmful to human health if safety requirements are not followed correctly.

  • Infrared radiation from powerful sources, when directly hitting the retina of the eye, can dry out the mucous membrane, which will lead to eye fatigue and even pain. Therefore, when using a device such as an infrared laser flashlight, you should never point it at a person’s eyes (unless such a flashlight is used for the purpose of self-defense from an attacker),

  • contacts through which power passes - should be reliably isolated from possible exposure to moisture, which will cause corrosion or short circuit of the circuit,
  • soldering of contacts should be carried out with well-functioning soldering equipment to prevent the possibility of burns during work,
  • you should try to avoid direct exposure of infrared LEDs to sunlight to avoid overheating,
  • The infrared equipment housing must be securely assembled to prevent contamination or moisture from entering the system.

These devices have recently become increasingly popular due to their quality and long service life. Low energy consumption, budget cost of infrared lighting equipment, combined with its capabilities, will be a convincing argument in favor of choosing such devices to ensure safety. The assembled amateur systems will allow you, without extra costs, to have, in addition to your camera or video camera, full-fledged auxiliary equipment for taking photos and videos at night.